tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58734977181546116452024-03-12T19:16:11.841-06:00My Life in Kuala LumpurA photo blog of life abroad in MalaysiaChad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.comBlogger86125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-55262707204610094952015-05-26T21:57:00.000-06:002015-05-26T21:57:35.417-06:00The Nexus Retrospective: A Look Back Through My Phone's Photo Gallery<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ29egGd0PoCRb92snYodxlmMMIFjCkK7OR1c4iz9S80-KFEzF27rPSaHO_WWcwvVuSlsFY5-_xWvWue_exAP_aRNltKwWVHqCIxFmszHpJNz0ljM0p1fge7Lx0hLWsZ2hEQp5gh9bDKU9/s1600/IMG_20131107_184535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ29egGd0PoCRb92snYodxlmMMIFjCkK7OR1c4iz9S80-KFEzF27rPSaHO_WWcwvVuSlsFY5-_xWvWue_exAP_aRNltKwWVHqCIxFmszHpJNz0ljM0p1fge7Lx0hLWsZ2hEQp5gh9bDKU9/s320/IMG_20131107_184535.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">KL Tower and the surrounding cityscape<br />
bathed in a golden sunset, from Marini's on 57</td></tr>
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There's a saying in photography that the best camera is the one you have with you. There's a lot of truth to that. It doesn't matter how fancy or expensive your camera is; if it's sitting at home in a corner of your bedroom when the right moment presents itself, it's useless.<br />
<br />
While I sometimes bemoan the proliferation of cameras in seemingly every gadget we carry nowadays – making everyone think they're a photographer and fueling a generation of vapid narcissists – there is admittedly a handy side of virtually always having a camera with you. Beyond Instagramming your latest meal, you can capture those neat moments that would have likely otherwise gone by unrecorded. And, of course, if you live in the U.S., there's always the opportunity to film a cop shooting someone. (Kidding! Well, sort of.)<br />
<br />
When I started this blog almost seven years ago, the idea was to chronicle my life in Kuala Lumpur. It was all very new to me back then, of course, and as even the most trivial things were fresh and unfamiliar, they somehow merited (in my mind, at least) dedicated blog entries.<br />
<br />
Unsurprisingly, as time went by, the new and novel became the routine and common. A trip to Tesco was no longer a blog-worthy event, and over the years, my blog had longer periods of inactivity and eventually evolved into more of a compendium of my various travels and less of a series of snapshots of my day-to-day life here in Malaysia.<br />
<br />
The other day, though, I was backing up a bunch of photos from my Nexus 4 smartphone, which I've had for about a year and a half now, I guess, and many of them brought back memories – some more worthwhile than others. Amid the special events, traveling, and nice dinners that got photographed, there were also some more pedestrian things, too – that daily dose of life in KL that my blog has been missing for a long time. So I thought I'd share some of them on here... they're from all over, and many are not really recent, so though the photos will be mostly chronological, I doubt most will really need a clear mention of the specific date. Nearly all these photos are from my phone, but a couple are from my compact camera, too, which also gets carried with me when I don't feel like heaving the Nikon and its parade of lenses around. And there are of course a fair few from the trips I've taken, as well, so some of those will pop up here, too! Needless to say, the little cameras found in smartphones, even the best ones, really shine only in good lighting conditions. Once the light levels fall off, the quality of the photos plummets, as you'll see here. But sometimes, as a spin around Facebook will show you, the images from even the lowliest of cameras really are quite amazing, proving the truth of the adage, "Cameras don't take pictures, photographers do."<br />
<br />
So away we go... unless specifically noted otherwise, all the photos are from my phone, and the description will of course be found in the caption of each picture... enjoy!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD804h_JYhAj8ZaOWrY17WZkeV4oAvAPnAONcHd9S-z8s9Cm0G_6DuNVNPz-ENvwfL0xQ5g5D-q1lwGKqET5g3yE9d71rTCUI67ZzDrpS81cCA7XJ2iARcchrsLKBBLjPFXKjIkUZtZZ13/s1600/IMG_20131112_184620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD804h_JYhAj8ZaOWrY17WZkeV4oAvAPnAONcHd9S-z8s9Cm0G_6DuNVNPz-ENvwfL0xQ5g5D-q1lwGKqET5g3yE9d71rTCUI67ZzDrpS81cCA7XJ2iARcchrsLKBBLjPFXKjIkUZtZZ13/s400/IMG_20131112_184620.jpg" width="322" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was taken in Nov. 2013 and actually marked<br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"> my introduction to the wonderful world</span><br />
of Japanese whisky. I have no idea why the<br />
whisky appears so yellow in the glass, yet<br />
normal amber-colored in the bottle.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho-3OwCuS18kz6poqxTeNgLY42CZqh5NeBPnUU37jQ0X6CuINIXYvk6w2zo2UdHT9N6_AXOPO8vnNIV8dY0bC03Omm_guvG9TUYoDD6eBTRGfr0bJADmtXutwH8MgtjqFB0Vc3unGcq0xx/s1600/IMG_20131113_090452.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho-3OwCuS18kz6poqxTeNgLY42CZqh5NeBPnUU37jQ0X6CuINIXYvk6w2zo2UdHT9N6_AXOPO8vnNIV8dY0bC03Omm_guvG9TUYoDD6eBTRGfr0bJADmtXutwH8MgtjqFB0Vc3unGcq0xx/s400/IMG_20131113_090452.jpg" width="313" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even when I'm driving, I'm still an editor...<br />
this error was on a HUGE billboard at a major<br />
intersection in Bangsar... it was there for a<br />
couple of weeks before it got noticed and<br />
a "c" was hastily pasted over that final<br />
"s" in "essense"!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRNKxD7B_xQ1EVmLtoTggRAXIShgRlXK__k82SBjxOe9vigO05Nu0sPNmPYXgBwQHUfznr0kVFfEramgB-NN43RnKolo_6-nVmvm-Jov2j2C5y0MoWfYBB_1C7kY7h0ZUps415vefJBle_/s1600/IMG_20131120_214558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRNKxD7B_xQ1EVmLtoTggRAXIShgRlXK__k82SBjxOe9vigO05Nu0sPNmPYXgBwQHUfznr0kVFfEramgB-NN43RnKolo_6-nVmvm-Jov2j2C5y0MoWfYBB_1C7kY7h0ZUps415vefJBle_/s400/IMG_20131120_214558.jpg" width="282" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One fine night towards the end of 2013,<br />
my friend and I ate at Mandarin Oriental<br />
and got to enjoy the world's most storied<br />
dessert wine, Chateau d'Yquem from<br />
the Sauternes region of France... not a<br />
legendary vintage, but still a great treat</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwnrhjs3ql8cGOv9jPMT6hV3p63PJXmEcuXhhVM7Gd1sIX1rzTVsu0OCHtoyyfNn-1aJIE7kI_a5JS8dRVVyCRcHf9DSlhvW-TJl_iPpfC8A2sknqoFPu14DgFH3dO_EquHsHbc1ZfCFmt/s1600/IMG_20131124_084308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwnrhjs3ql8cGOv9jPMT6hV3p63PJXmEcuXhhVM7Gd1sIX1rzTVsu0OCHtoyyfNn-1aJIE7kI_a5JS8dRVVyCRcHf9DSlhvW-TJl_iPpfC8A2sknqoFPu14DgFH3dO_EquHsHbc1ZfCFmt/s400/IMG_20131124_084308.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The great view from one of the beach villas at the<br />
Four Seasons Langkawi, among Malaysia's finest resorts</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRb7X-lyugH_yfDPvLbQNAeX-iV8RAawWhGQYX8ZM5yCct6oFG__iJlFHVn-C84G3v8nBdinNrv7P-lIMVeBm6QAJjBpggtsf2oHiyyJSWAiT3N4TnG_R2IqXwBxIOCGisXsLqD2pNSE0L/s1600/IMG_20131124_145515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRb7X-lyugH_yfDPvLbQNAeX-iV8RAawWhGQYX8ZM5yCct6oFG__iJlFHVn-C84G3v8nBdinNrv7P-lIMVeBm6QAJjBpggtsf2oHiyyJSWAiT3N4TnG_R2IqXwBxIOCGisXsLqD2pNSE0L/s400/IMG_20131124_145515.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tropical luxury at the Four Seasons in<br />
Langkawi... a favorite place of mine<br />
and always a nice, nearby escape from KL</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-FOlwnRb93M7tWBAleizcI2NdPtMXZPrCoJOT-AowZXn8dkWykdZ1hP0of9Oc3nXDCoitcUY-e7BH7JsbAabe4_o20bX5Ms8ns8HtwUZ09-UGuKZKzpmzlk-uLdGvhtbA47mV6BW-gitW/s1600/IMG_20131207_100231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-FOlwnRb93M7tWBAleizcI2NdPtMXZPrCoJOT-AowZXn8dkWykdZ1hP0of9Oc3nXDCoitcUY-e7BH7JsbAabe4_o20bX5Ms8ns8HtwUZ09-UGuKZKzpmzlk-uLdGvhtbA47mV6BW-gitW/s400/IMG_20131207_100231.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was my first of two visits to the<br />
awesome Siam Kempinski in Bangkok...<br />
snapped this one morning from the terrace<br />
on the club floor lounge – not a cloud!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb9pWDqY_hBOFGj7aNDZMzhY1w5GMLl6ZtDglHo0VmMtLBb7-9Yx2fXRjtOrPp2d3IjjP_edpfuSayt9l0B26CNOlc_TEO1cUIYIwPJUHd5h6-oDtrfpvQUN6KiaGDgXQZYQn9hVGSOpI8/s1600/DSC_2119+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb9pWDqY_hBOFGj7aNDZMzhY1w5GMLl6ZtDglHo0VmMtLBb7-9Yx2fXRjtOrPp2d3IjjP_edpfuSayt9l0B26CNOlc_TEO1cUIYIwPJUHd5h6-oDtrfpvQUN6KiaGDgXQZYQn9hVGSOpI8/s400/DSC_2119+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ah, the pain of fashion. This was at one of the photo shoots<br />
for the luxury lifestyle magazine I edit. The poor model<br />
had to lie on the cold bathroom floor for nearly an<br />
hour while everyone did their thing – hair, makeup,<br />
jewelry, photographers, lighting. I was up on a ladder<br />
to shoot this... and this was with my Nikon and a<br />
super wide-angle lens, by the way! (Dec. 2013)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV4EDM8qixZjxfPxzw5rlMj4fa8kzv1Yp_eLlC3PrDFvgk6QwY53S0K6lAp1VgtnzrGp0gIL6KPTMFIkChnLSK3SnpyU81fuvTttGXNaSH8OuUBNN8tqd7_uRQsh7WvP2YFQ7dB7opTZ0i/s1600/IMG_20131210_203648.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV4EDM8qixZjxfPxzw5rlMj4fa8kzv1Yp_eLlC3PrDFvgk6QwY53S0K6lAp1VgtnzrGp0gIL6KPTMFIkChnLSK3SnpyU81fuvTttGXNaSH8OuUBNN8tqd7_uRQsh7WvP2YFQ7dB7opTZ0i/s400/IMG_20131210_203648.jpg" width="327" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love introducing different foods to my local<br />
friends here, and my chicken nachos have<br />
happily been a unanimous hit every time</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpBLNlwjLUcifTFbI86olO9cHU5fRsxKlG8xgWS61mwK6TxknLoGY2vrEkwM6HxLaSnYanWyiOQnHbPvay5q41c9pVR45TvdTX9Aah_bdBClVmLdw2Sj2CTCFq7A3dRY_lVrCV-_QByouK/s1600/IMG_20131231_125957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpBLNlwjLUcifTFbI86olO9cHU5fRsxKlG8xgWS61mwK6TxknLoGY2vrEkwM6HxLaSnYanWyiOQnHbPvay5q41c9pVR45TvdTX9Aah_bdBClVmLdw2Sj2CTCFq7A3dRY_lVrCV-_QByouK/s400/IMG_20131231_125957.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was from my second trip to Nepal<br />
over the New Year holiday 2013/2014;<br />
it's particularly special now because this<br />
view from a rooftop cafe in Kathmandu<br />
Durbar Square looks sadly different today<br />
after the recent earthquake there</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAEWhjT-NvjL6eKqJZbMUh1XzZYt5cj2h3WCl7ZilJ1XE-biVJPDBFHFVP6dWiif-vqiymxRgF-pd6CDSLz8uk4REQOnmxGGtiwOjVyXVe0edKyVt0URKMUq9TjWnnilCwUEGSUotdqA5R/s1600/IMG_20140117_180532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAEWhjT-NvjL6eKqJZbMUh1XzZYt5cj2h3WCl7ZilJ1XE-biVJPDBFHFVP6dWiif-vqiymxRgF-pd6CDSLz8uk4REQOnmxGGtiwOjVyXVe0edKyVt0URKMUq9TjWnnilCwUEGSUotdqA5R/s400/IMG_20140117_180532.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back to Langkawi! This is at the Westin Resort on the<br />
southeast coast of the island. I was there for the 12th Royal<br />
Langkawi International Regatta... this was my first<br />
time (January 2014) and I went again the following year</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmskDcQe694GDgr3bVX0iNm4jdx1R50BlH7s6RmJ39vKp39TRKaHIjKHl78ijPJtP25vx6TYuCvX6OpFQjFQrLb5HopeDd-o43GmjT8alndgbu01oOPXnvt-1dU0jCDlULETXRjfkR93ov/s1600/IMG_20140117_193728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmskDcQe694GDgr3bVX0iNm4jdx1R50BlH7s6RmJ39vKp39TRKaHIjKHl78ijPJtP25vx6TYuCvX6OpFQjFQrLb5HopeDd-o43GmjT8alndgbu01oOPXnvt-1dU0jCDlULETXRjfkR93ov/s400/IMG_20140117_193728.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A stunning sunset over the pool at the Westin<br />
Resort, with the Andaman Sea beyond</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-AYLJ9jYfnjkFVEM2tVq4OGN8FnRJXopkgZclCgKC8PXSwHw70M3VaMqeoSLInvc7Gi6AlKuYuBWcGhEIX4ypENy1iOiLHEyKez6VLmg_Y3qHzfwHZ6WFJpdJEU_qUSDfyaLlTgiEyGmL/s1600/IMG_20140122_203637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-AYLJ9jYfnjkFVEM2tVq4OGN8FnRJXopkgZclCgKC8PXSwHw70M3VaMqeoSLInvc7Gi6AlKuYuBWcGhEIX4ypENy1iOiLHEyKez6VLmg_Y3qHzfwHZ6WFJpdJEU_qUSDfyaLlTgiEyGmL/s400/IMG_20140122_203637.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is at one of my very favorite restaurants,<br />
Awet Thai Cafe. Every year, they jack up<br />
their prices for three weeks in the run-up to<br />
Chinese New Year, conveniently coinciding<br />
with a "price hike" that happens to have an<br />
amazingly well-defined start and stop date :)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVHHXbBs_NtZbzmz5G82l2WDr6EwB_8_-P3a9njtS2mFLGFs2tKMOyAFbm3pHJCxer9-DoGMjonNJSExWADgIrBeeS9oLy3WIFmazqQSA3ON7W2Q-s38n-8IxH4ZPQs9KnvWLmQJrhoztC/s1600/IMG_20140127_145552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="343" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVHHXbBs_NtZbzmz5G82l2WDr6EwB_8_-P3a9njtS2mFLGFs2tKMOyAFbm3pHJCxer9-DoGMjonNJSExWADgIrBeeS9oLy3WIFmazqQSA3ON7W2Q-s38n-8IxH4ZPQs9KnvWLmQJrhoztC/s400/IMG_20140127_145552.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As a boy, I was wildly infatuated with airplanes, few more<br />
so than the supersonic Concorde, which I frequently got in<br />
trouble for drawing during math class. Getting to see one of<br />
the now-retired planes on display at Charles de Gaulle airport in<br />
Paris was a big thrill for me</td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvSZYSnKvIBnpfwV7IqrxFu0ht7MudKPPZEp_coqmRE57EaeiboD890Bkecq8BSKS09Y6aAMR7AK-NDzv60a8YA2gqQPm9ozqTJAga36OZxjWWjezUhce6wfv_gM7rqnVcZj8jqKAxOwWW/s1600/IMG_20140127_170539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvSZYSnKvIBnpfwV7IqrxFu0ht7MudKPPZEp_coqmRE57EaeiboD890Bkecq8BSKS09Y6aAMR7AK-NDzv60a8YA2gqQPm9ozqTJAga36OZxjWWjezUhce6wfv_gM7rqnVcZj8jqKAxOwWW/s400/IMG_20140127_170539.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And this was my first glimpse of Paris upon<br />
emerging from the underground metro train<br />
there, disoriented, cold, and adrift in a sea<br />
of cluelessness. I eventually found my hotel.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn3QqvXdEH6pBFng3-5nz4gs5UX72PW-kPZGhF5y_lLm_SzRu-HKCGKE_FyFNPvkmiytqNIeThuhp9TR7eCFMxbrQ4MjwO9x3FqLM2tdmhUBvZIrMCWmVH_sTJGJ2rcHcwU0PQWOO3AMfF/s1600/IMG_20140129_133621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn3QqvXdEH6pBFng3-5nz4gs5UX72PW-kPZGhF5y_lLm_SzRu-HKCGKE_FyFNPvkmiytqNIeThuhp9TR7eCFMxbrQ4MjwO9x3FqLM2tdmhUBvZIrMCWmVH_sTJGJ2rcHcwU0PQWOO3AMfF/s400/IMG_20140129_133621.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I honestly don't even remember what this<br />
gorgeous little display of food was, but it<br />
was the lead plate at my first<br />
Michelin-star dining experience at<br />
Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHC9oz7O17MrVS2iyQN5AHcJ7iyIR-GzIcwBch6mqanps2VNZzDqf7RvRT9VE0h0CFCTvz_Pm2hN_gGRVx1VmLJQv67cnPdi4BLPtmNMXH03GKlyHOOBwjktrEAXcv-uNm3O7iRzWH7Z0E/s1600/IMG_20140129_174450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHC9oz7O17MrVS2iyQN5AHcJ7iyIR-GzIcwBch6mqanps2VNZzDqf7RvRT9VE0h0CFCTvz_Pm2hN_gGRVx1VmLJQv67cnPdi4BLPtmNMXH03GKlyHOOBwjktrEAXcv-uNm3O7iRzWH7Z0E/s400/IMG_20140129_174450.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm no fan of selfies (for me, at least), but<br />
this was almost obligatory to show I was<br />
there... Jan. 29, 2014</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBd2wDuBL9wjRNXZZIFl_HvwbfCQGoESHEBUQJ4HEv61eueGALxIHZn3ZFyJHjZnpvA_AZUvPCvwzfy5X0hT9cs2SGYEo8wL9vRpQEFKx6ZF66Hfxv3PUIx63mO8IFRjXblEXLV47Mqht7/s1600/IMG_20140201_204305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBd2wDuBL9wjRNXZZIFl_HvwbfCQGoESHEBUQJ4HEv61eueGALxIHZn3ZFyJHjZnpvA_AZUvPCvwzfy5X0hT9cs2SGYEo8wL9vRpQEFKx6ZF66Hfxv3PUIx63mO8IFRjXblEXLV47Mqht7/s400/IMG_20140201_204305.jpg" width="286" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I snapped this at a supermarket near my<br />
apartment in Barcelona mostly just to<br />
later gawk at the cheap prices for<br />
Catalonian table wine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy5MSqiIhkRQD9Uau3eMABehxnp3Mprqu5YRiXewi9vU97XwCTp8Ivhu4MgPefrWx108nO7zbnqxl_hyr3BNM0A6G2a1TJ4ObgPq9sbC-642Eh6t1ulWex73XZYWEbHYstplpbc4qykEMh/s1600/IMG_20140220_214625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy5MSqiIhkRQD9Uau3eMABehxnp3Mprqu5YRiXewi9vU97XwCTp8Ivhu4MgPefrWx108nO7zbnqxl_hyr3BNM0A6G2a1TJ4ObgPq9sbC-642Eh6t1ulWex73XZYWEbHYstplpbc4qykEMh/s400/IMG_20140220_214625.jpg" width="305" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The perils of handing your camera (in this<br />
case, a phone) to someone else to shoot with;<br />
I had to do plenty of editing and even then<br />
still convert this to grayscale to make it<br />
even remotely passable. This is me at the<br />
awards ceremony in KLCC where one of<br />
our magazines was named the country's<br />
best tourism publication<br />
by Tourism Malaysia for 2012/2013</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU0_XnsdfSwqBL4-8NXjLl76ETIIp5pcofLlB95QsnCrH3Ko2WXkd-L1kFutpuUNWm1IX1BaOsqvgKHktSH3la01L2AsFNzyRVM_TlWbT_hmIu2sagRwOWOfHc1LyuN4-yKQuI8ULhuQjN/s1600/IMG_20140224_214849.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU0_XnsdfSwqBL4-8NXjLl76ETIIp5pcofLlB95QsnCrH3Ko2WXkd-L1kFutpuUNWm1IX1BaOsqvgKHktSH3la01L2AsFNzyRVM_TlWbT_hmIu2sagRwOWOfHc1LyuN4-yKQuI8ULhuQjN/s400/IMG_20140224_214849.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back at the Siam Kempinski in Bangkok,<br />
at their fine dining venue, Sru Bua. I could<br />
not resist getting this bottle, the legendary<br />
Chateau Montelena from Napa Valley.<br />
This is the winery that beat France's best<br />
at the 1976 Judgment of Paris and changed<br />
the wine industry forever – and yes,<br />
though this wasn't the same vintage,<br />
obviously, it was still an outstanding,<br />
incredible Chardonnay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmH9EH6ZiAh4uokshdMn6MPXtPpMi4Z0xtIDiMn0wz9o1jAhnjd3hk0xwbZ6zOb0ZVrOOtBJJfg54J3qyCxxzdJ5Ckrs4T4KT67JGNLuJfuCfCrYMs2pgkj7ht8fffA7_jJF95qv2wuA1-/s1600/IMG_20140326_162402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmH9EH6ZiAh4uokshdMn6MPXtPpMi4Z0xtIDiMn0wz9o1jAhnjd3hk0xwbZ6zOb0ZVrOOtBJJfg54J3qyCxxzdJ5Ckrs4T4KT67JGNLuJfuCfCrYMs2pgkj7ht8fffA7_jJF95qv2wuA1-/s400/IMG_20140326_162402.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Well, there was no damn way THIS photo wasn't going in<br />
here: Look at this nonsense. This is an actual SIDEWALK<br />
in Bangsar, not far from where I work. There's no big<br />
event, nothing special going on, this is just how<br />
Malaysians park. It's not bad enough they park any<br />
old way they want on the streets; they actually park<br />
on the sidewalks, too. *facepalm*</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0aHRZBM2jiMqjR69t3FzC4o3xDWlyuV10W4Df8naoLSpx_QP3ledEIsAWw-cIre7Iqa77YN_6zsWvO4NvOmz_v36Iy0cGxvq3Joc6LSuNvZ-pdoxES7GsfVUxAy2NvRnokNYt0xFIcv9A/s1600/IMG_20140406_083643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0aHRZBM2jiMqjR69t3FzC4o3xDWlyuV10W4Df8naoLSpx_QP3ledEIsAWw-cIre7Iqa77YN_6zsWvO4NvOmz_v36Iy0cGxvq3Joc6LSuNvZ-pdoxES7GsfVUxAy2NvRnokNYt0xFIcv9A/s400/IMG_20140406_083643.jpg" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the airport in Queenstown,<br />
Zealand... a great trip, to be sure</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyWkVojQ1bxFj1mLD7fOaNo5m59Gm9Y6D455w3rqSIxzp1s4pWppL4idP-IG-WGLRxwiw7wJbtx4C4wCxfNHxNJ9wctqG1bbleA7s72Kjgpb30nWjaEEUY0bwD8wW-c-RFysmMB9Zx97PZ/s1600/IMG_20140407_154459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyWkVojQ1bxFj1mLD7fOaNo5m59Gm9Y6D455w3rqSIxzp1s4pWppL4idP-IG-WGLRxwiw7wJbtx4C4wCxfNHxNJ9wctqG1bbleA7s72Kjgpb30nWjaEEUY0bwD8wW-c-RFysmMB9Zx97PZ/s400/IMG_20140407_154459.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Driving in New Zealand... somewhere<br />
between Queenstown and Christchurch.<br />
April 2014</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfgx_mAfDgA77RbKBG32abvYrZFVkZrBbq2eqN0Ka1oyMxEfEW1hVNMKk6gxBrBzAmsnlWtTPJdht9AHQ3q1qt7uJesgp2UUeCleyEli2aOn3AiJeVFa2z2JORliTQAum0_3zC96vTuv2_/s1600/IMG_20140410_133749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfgx_mAfDgA77RbKBG32abvYrZFVkZrBbq2eqN0Ka1oyMxEfEW1hVNMKk6gxBrBzAmsnlWtTPJdht9AHQ3q1qt7uJesgp2UUeCleyEli2aOn3AiJeVFa2z2JORliTQAum0_3zC96vTuv2_/s400/IMG_20140410_133749.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now THIS gorgeous thing isn't commonly<br />
available in the States, but here, any German<br />
restaurant worth its <i>lederhosen </i>serves a<br />
big, crispy pork knuckle... and they are<br />
absolutely delicious!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO_cIZjo6YrgOKqL5DXrsdvWSUNquKPxyNmBscs-wDaM4-R1amAVH8H8iR598Sz2H9xW4UZpu7_vdoSJCaSPJ2qwB69oWUG8SdXQI8CWB1xWpIcWSGgXLMww3PgAbVJ9CvMxxcYQekQY8M/s1600/IMG_20140416_222840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO_cIZjo6YrgOKqL5DXrsdvWSUNquKPxyNmBscs-wDaM4-R1amAVH8H8iR598Sz2H9xW4UZpu7_vdoSJCaSPJ2qwB69oWUG8SdXQI8CWB1xWpIcWSGgXLMww3PgAbVJ9CvMxxcYQekQY8M/s400/IMG_20140416_222840.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is as good an example of Malaysian<br />
English as any. It's not awful, and it's<br />
perfectly understandable. It's just... off.<br />
Seldom does a year go by that my condo<br />
doesn't have some drama with its water<br />
tanks, so this was the 2014 edition.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiM48ku2kBMak1aSnJ5liz8EXKssqzDxYcKyP8vqwjK6KM7jHfsxkmq9ospjoO6KK9zPEObrkHrikbpgsXujcVYylDMT2bjjLVG0xPkYjXIKrW26IHB8s8RJvhnVA2UsfgylTMEbnYO6m2/s1600/IMG_20140530_103547.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiM48ku2kBMak1aSnJ5liz8EXKssqzDxYcKyP8vqwjK6KM7jHfsxkmq9ospjoO6KK9zPEObrkHrikbpgsXujcVYylDMT2bjjLVG0xPkYjXIKrW26IHB8s8RJvhnVA2UsfgylTMEbnYO6m2/s400/IMG_20140530_103547.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I was invited to attend the Malaysian launch of a new<br />
line of yachts down at Simpson Marine in fabulous<br />
Port Dickson. Just kidding. Everyone in Malaysia knows<br />
Port Dickson isn't really even a little bit fabulous.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWHv5s2Lu6GG12lXLkezrYwWw_TSaJ6Hyn9vV9uz6LJMtl6XnZNd3A2PskgftPHIpffBvHEQ-T_dYv_eDOwP0cjKoUxdHXqd33pSp2gefZ8h8A4lshRXn0hvnRR4yy0yY8wQK8xap52O2P/s1600/IMG_20140530_105249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWHv5s2Lu6GG12lXLkezrYwWw_TSaJ6Hyn9vV9uz6LJMtl6XnZNd3A2PskgftPHIpffBvHEQ-T_dYv_eDOwP0cjKoUxdHXqd33pSp2gefZ8h8A4lshRXn0hvnRR4yy0yY8wQK8xap52O2P/s400/IMG_20140530_105249.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Champagne, a spread of canapés, and a<br />
pretty fun little group on board once we<br />
all got comfortable... was a fun time</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGyhrzvvsCPYo5NUvCvI3Rk4QGpo2SmzCkLsMW4-bonJ_97m2aqBjjWZ4XgunkjfyFl6tloFmr-dlHX-8MV4bvOUDptEm3NpJ4kPVuI9VPxUWofPHVqehXf5zcL21y0RY7i9LCrljjk-e7/s1600/IMG_20140530_115342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGyhrzvvsCPYo5NUvCvI3Rk4QGpo2SmzCkLsMW4-bonJ_97m2aqBjjWZ4XgunkjfyFl6tloFmr-dlHX-8MV4bvOUDptEm3NpJ4kPVuI9VPxUWofPHVqehXf5zcL21y0RY7i9LCrljjk-e7/s400/IMG_20140530_115342.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We spent about an hour or so out at sea, but eventually,<br />
the menacing clouds hastened our return to port</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Q53y79-EenK-0uZ9VSaaP6b_ngPwqTvnL8SNRc6B-gWjv5O5-3Qo2Od6JyEVyYp0wh3mRnHDljMx3MiLI_EtznUdedOZM2TJbYZ4iOMHirKJ4ZYpcrkMU37YgfhlxxvqZYOmTaTh274k/s1600/IMG_20140612_180203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Q53y79-EenK-0uZ9VSaaP6b_ngPwqTvnL8SNRc6B-gWjv5O5-3Qo2Od6JyEVyYp0wh3mRnHDljMx3MiLI_EtznUdedOZM2TJbYZ4iOMHirKJ4ZYpcrkMU37YgfhlxxvqZYOmTaTh274k/s400/IMG_20140612_180203.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking out towards Ampang from around the KLCC area</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnOnIlUyuRtn8Kiv9lPw3vrIV8c39fu_hPWmIFSC2YvP4VPXObq-qh__1t8G-CNMSrD1cCEBaOMe_e3KPt4eBEdj0R9dUTCgzoeTd0381emxIWZt0IiF5QziYGyJDZL_hgIxBSCwlE_Gqy/s1600/IMG_20140703_113613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnOnIlUyuRtn8Kiv9lPw3vrIV8c39fu_hPWmIFSC2YvP4VPXObq-qh__1t8G-CNMSrD1cCEBaOMe_e3KPt4eBEdj0R9dUTCgzoeTd0381emxIWZt0IiF5QziYGyJDZL_hgIxBSCwlE_Gqy/s400/IMG_20140703_113613.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was pretty cool... my pals at Etihad<br />
Airways' PR firm delivered these red,<br />
white, and blue Jelly Belly candies to my office<br />
for the Fourth of July in 2014, a very<br />
kind gesture for any American living abroad!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_GU9uINGAeBFIteaiuIvOxqsQpUDHnas8CiaqFe-WVTW6W0dDQnLDC4bJq8gvbxtdu9gKXYJNA-KrEEYsv_EASulhx1YGjweAR61WlLS0yJrwKe3HqZEPJ-hKnXKwsXkA4Ph53dPKzWaN/s1600/IMG_20140708_191551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_GU9uINGAeBFIteaiuIvOxqsQpUDHnas8CiaqFe-WVTW6W0dDQnLDC4bJq8gvbxtdu9gKXYJNA-KrEEYsv_EASulhx1YGjweAR61WlLS0yJrwKe3HqZEPJ-hKnXKwsXkA4Ph53dPKzWaN/s400/IMG_20140708_191551.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the world of sparkling and still wines,<br />
Dom Pérignon and Chateau Margaux are two<br />
powerhouse names... so this was a pretty<br />
memorable evening!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVl5Xr6W1LYQf7XRyJIG9Uh6d39Fify-X32ps-BQuHufxbHzVZRPryyvWfWxG-01qh3V16btbEQxHW_7UOLXPSLWkKtmXCff-51czKAuR6YfdVDK0XJNtWzsixA5PZ-Q6elPbs8byv7Dt-/s1600/IMG_20140806_140507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVl5Xr6W1LYQf7XRyJIG9Uh6d39Fify-X32ps-BQuHufxbHzVZRPryyvWfWxG-01qh3V16btbEQxHW_7UOLXPSLWkKtmXCff-51czKAuR6YfdVDK0XJNtWzsixA5PZ-Q6elPbs8byv7Dt-/s400/IMG_20140806_140507.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tuscan wine and a great platter of starters at one of my<br />
favorite Italian eateries, Vineria in Bangsar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIWo788AIlq4AlS5jOcwgo5r3e_CWNFi6eOGERlmdIadGFbh5uin91T7Ljq0VGShYRbotT0E4au_NHxCjUB8MqJi2Rxzc_OXqQ0-m2Sa3YrgEF6YzS0MH2uxVxmfnMrSpaviJHzYzkK8b1/s1600/IMG_20140808_185738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIWo788AIlq4AlS5jOcwgo5r3e_CWNFi6eOGERlmdIadGFbh5uin91T7Ljq0VGShYRbotT0E4au_NHxCjUB8MqJi2Rxzc_OXqQ0-m2Sa3YrgEF6YzS0MH2uxVxmfnMrSpaviJHzYzkK8b1/s400/IMG_20140808_185738.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I snapped this from high atop First Avenue, a 25-story<br />
building near my neighborhood. The top of the building is<br />
a spacious, grass-covered helipad that doubles as an<br />
open space – one of the most amazing venues in the<br />
city. The massive building in the foreground is just half<br />
of 1 Utama, the world's fourth-largest shopping mall, and<br />
the little black arrow in the background indicates<br />
where my nearby Damansara Perdana condo is!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_YQ5p0zVhhSGCrTQvIMstj5d29HMv3peGae0WrMNPBUWy-g-yO9Z4e__DFQyVxFBalE1vBe0pC_cSV6s0fKAo5ocvKt_jLKy43hblbkLbPvrZ0zx6d2J2xyQwRGFvdmOyXoQPNqMhXIZo/s1600/IMG_20140809_222726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_YQ5p0zVhhSGCrTQvIMstj5d29HMv3peGae0WrMNPBUWy-g-yO9Z4e__DFQyVxFBalE1vBe0pC_cSV6s0fKAo5ocvKt_jLKy43hblbkLbPvrZ0zx6d2J2xyQwRGFvdmOyXoQPNqMhXIZo/s400/IMG_20140809_222726.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At a house party in Damansara Heights with<br />
friends Patrice and Cheng Yi... good food and<br />
good company. And of course, a liberal flow of<br />
good wine and whisky, too.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8D5PDfIT1fMb7Zl5V4GpbGaVub-zhb0I2TsfC7JdBy_q_o5nu_cmFfkRKvH6FENcPKqS_b-jV-G-MMj3GMxCNQrw1YKqs_lhsZoF7JqR55fOvfbCU3_oMHLGW6B46uQrWsmvKJuxRnNLc/s1600/IMG_20140809_235951.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8D5PDfIT1fMb7Zl5V4GpbGaVub-zhb0I2TsfC7JdBy_q_o5nu_cmFfkRKvH6FENcPKqS_b-jV-G-MMj3GMxCNQrw1YKqs_lhsZoF7JqR55fOvfbCU3_oMHLGW6B46uQrWsmvKJuxRnNLc/s400/IMG_20140809_235951.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think there were more people there than this, but we<br />
managed to get this group assembled for a quick photo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsliPHEeu2PQqBbcYVkdBfG7mlUnxkaaD2oTGNX6H2snN2Z3TbIzTpLvG6uYBTOGxqWRVIKwBijZT_aSiySRUGJ4SjUDeggv9fF_6MsBkOfEpHLfbKLXNkhr2qDq8Qho8gMK3smk-PciWB/s1600/IMG_20140903_092712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsliPHEeu2PQqBbcYVkdBfG7mlUnxkaaD2oTGNX6H2snN2Z3TbIzTpLvG6uYBTOGxqWRVIKwBijZT_aSiySRUGJ4SjUDeggv9fF_6MsBkOfEpHLfbKLXNkhr2qDq8Qho8gMK3smk-PciWB/s400/IMG_20140903_092712.jpg" width="368" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is at my favorite hotel in Malacca, the<br />
Mediterranean-styled Casa del Rio</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjNRprKaNOHyf_2tJtQm8FmrtBK2T0fe50bM4rA0Ztd0dbHqNoBuSArqNJIzNKvfdk-n3QB5azwVfTRoYKaLKs72OD2WI0tx1DycF_o1wKz9TKunzH8HWD4aGzb_GvHfrmag6aFu-05WBp/s1600/IMG_20140904_150332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjNRprKaNOHyf_2tJtQm8FmrtBK2T0fe50bM4rA0Ztd0dbHqNoBuSArqNJIzNKvfdk-n3QB5azwVfTRoYKaLKs72OD2WI0tx1DycF_o1wKz9TKunzH8HWD4aGzb_GvHfrmag6aFu-05WBp/s400/IMG_20140904_150332.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I was invited to a swanky jewelry preview<br />
down in Singapore, and this photo is from<br />
Orchard ION Sky on level 56</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicHeXzoj135GEa_HwOyqI1Eh5cJcBOQxhBK21KeeUgeYItDKk0lgQ5IQsrw8ETcX9Jnnbs6MlBtQOp8pHAUmqE6YNqlUQmoEok4tbNLOjOF5GCmTF79p2vYsFvc6b1riqB8sVQiDaP2IcO/s1600/IMG_20140916_152004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicHeXzoj135GEa_HwOyqI1Eh5cJcBOQxhBK21KeeUgeYItDKk0lgQ5IQsrw8ETcX9Jnnbs6MlBtQOp8pHAUmqE6YNqlUQmoEok4tbNLOjOF5GCmTF79p2vYsFvc6b1riqB8sVQiDaP2IcO/s400/IMG_20140916_152004.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A ridiculously creative cappuccino at<br />
one of my favorite Bangsar eateries,<br />
Yeast Bistronomy. In actual fact,<br />
drinking a beverage that looks like<br />
a face was a bit disconcerting in a way</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji-pYST9OTt0eK-nzj3Cexf5iMLkM3eWSzvfBwvo_FVcRUit7Ox7sh7gAu-ZDjxlK0XP7S1Tv-mg16moWcxFKh5X__JxXiTqDG1hcZDelkYHqdhtKOUjqhIiuYuvEJ3LYb-4aNjL0FVbIq/s1600/IMG_20140916_204005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji-pYST9OTt0eK-nzj3Cexf5iMLkM3eWSzvfBwvo_FVcRUit7Ox7sh7gAu-ZDjxlK0XP7S1Tv-mg16moWcxFKh5X__JxXiTqDG1hcZDelkYHqdhtKOUjqhIiuYuvEJ3LYb-4aNjL0FVbIq/s400/IMG_20140916_204005.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Indonesian friend Dendy, who I've known<br />
since 2006, was in town doing the styling<br />
for one of my magazine's photo shoots and<br />
I took him to my favorite Thai restaurant...<br />
the one with the Chinese New Year<br />
price hike.. fortunately, we were there<br />
outside of that timeframe!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh987ZEibB_tI5NJaeuL36FpYhU8gPzt9X5cTfwtP1xkJJSHrVxZiimyxpbDTTcSv0pMPm_J1Sf2gMP3x7dx8UdPxn2gp5Pp-MPYJoBRDkP9NAaenow14PQAewe_M_-JH3DIdFR9hpLHTHD/s1600/IMG_20140923_085414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh987ZEibB_tI5NJaeuL36FpYhU8gPzt9X5cTfwtP1xkJJSHrVxZiimyxpbDTTcSv0pMPm_J1Sf2gMP3x7dx8UdPxn2gp5Pp-MPYJoBRDkP9NAaenow14PQAewe_M_-JH3DIdFR9hpLHTHD/s400/IMG_20140923_085414.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ahhh, a thin slice of paradise... poolside at Amanpulo on<br />
a private island in the Palawan province of the Philippines,<br />
under blue skies and fluffy clouds.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6k-YPL7K3vb5DyhxsYad_VSRAFiuM8biuyNCr4-PaeX1HAl6gN1o7ZmWU1XNtgpcdOe5nX-qR736NiFpy2EOL4R_mO-CaQB-1xKkztyQJZS9nh2eYhjkfDFi7_XrRkW-HoF_r820j-v3O/s1600/IMG_20140920_144957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6k-YPL7K3vb5DyhxsYad_VSRAFiuM8biuyNCr4-PaeX1HAl6gN1o7ZmWU1XNtgpcdOe5nX-qR736NiFpy2EOL4R_mO-CaQB-1xKkztyQJZS9nh2eYhjkfDFi7_XrRkW-HoF_r820j-v3O/s400/IMG_20140920_144957.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And with a lovely welcome like this in<br />
the villa, what's not to like??</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6LHzV2S9791rxNbOmNQc6fX3ESFfGesMUJ9gIdQADbCaWqyz190BIg_gTnxeC5pRi_CTLRMQP8JdjWvOAG8JCNaKbsISszTHf0Q7Vne-w9fLfv7yMM9r3hyQJFz_WmjUpZUzh6iZFNLg/s1600/IMG_20140920_202911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6LHzV2S9791rxNbOmNQc6fX3ESFfGesMUJ9gIdQADbCaWqyz190BIg_gTnxeC5pRi_CTLRMQP8JdjWvOAG8JCNaKbsISszTHf0Q7Vne-w9fLfv7yMM9r3hyQJFz_WmjUpZUzh6iZFNLg/s400/IMG_20140920_202911.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now this admittedly isn't a great photo,<br />
but take a look at that TV. Here I was on<br />
a tiny island in the Philippine archipelago,<br />
and my college football team's game<br />
was being broadcast from the other<br />
side of the planet... not even a playoff<br />
game, I don't think. It was surreal. And<br />
yeah, Auburn won, so even better!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEind43OBwXc2BlMtHZI2j_Z8uSFHrtW0nVw7rsqhSLjDF9sMFyswGhfjL2CZz3sZEEkDNmld4oHvchWSIDB4egkOdb4Xe64VBnlYpmMzcRQJhT4nrQ63d54z4t7HUfbCDP3LLSXJND3Qkf4/s1600/IMG_20140921_093328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEind43OBwXc2BlMtHZI2j_Z8uSFHrtW0nVw7rsqhSLjDF9sMFyswGhfjL2CZz3sZEEkDNmld4oHvchWSIDB4egkOdb4Xe64VBnlYpmMzcRQJhT4nrQ63d54z4t7HUfbCDP3LLSXJND3Qkf4/s400/IMG_20140921_093328.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice, right? On a sunny day, even my<br />
weak little phone camera can produce<br />
impressive colors and sharpness</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6EKUdjuBl9wFNrhX7FCGWKN0NZt97DciHzJ6bSG1hqLRETaOKHEDu8F-SIgeKVl1DaNOytZCDwP_VmVV-FHD4LF6-6EFVq7WEyIWIo3thLm907_uhGHFJmOTtHU1vudfZ1K3pb_qB3VCx/s1600/IMG_20140923_140837.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6EKUdjuBl9wFNrhX7FCGWKN0NZt97DciHzJ6bSG1hqLRETaOKHEDu8F-SIgeKVl1DaNOytZCDwP_VmVV-FHD4LF6-6EFVq7WEyIWIo3thLm907_uhGHFJmOTtHU1vudfZ1K3pb_qB3VCx/s400/IMG_20140923_140837.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I can't recall if this was a selfie or if I handed<br />
my phone to someone... I was at the<br />
Amanpulo lounge in Manila, after a few<br />
days of sun and sea, and was about to head<br />
into the city to do a little exploring</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBSDUuMlkaqreL4BlEwi9DpCQBv1u3zCNVKeoZUrEULPiWWcVdR5wFZdq5So6pG1jt4vlHEUAtqi_j__gmDxAZW3ULSkKptzszHdoJVlJsZoE-36DCa3l9tXI00yZKnfDhrEpToKCD10wd/s1600/IMG_20141001_215540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBSDUuMlkaqreL4BlEwi9DpCQBv1u3zCNVKeoZUrEULPiWWcVdR5wFZdq5So6pG1jt4vlHEUAtqi_j__gmDxAZW3ULSkKptzszHdoJVlJsZoE-36DCa3l9tXI00yZKnfDhrEpToKCD10wd/s400/IMG_20141001_215540.jpg" width="321" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm generally not a fan of Aussie Shiraz, but<br />
Penfolds Grange isn't just some run-of-the-mill<br />
Aussie Shiraz. This is truly one of the world's<br />
great wines, and the 2008 is among its most<br />
celebrated vintages – an uncommon and<br />
expensive bottle of wine, to say the very<br />
least. I was invited to a Penfolds winemaker's<br />
dinner at the Mandarin Oriental and got to<br />
drink both the 2008 and 2006, both rated<br />
from 97-100 points by the experts. Amazing!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidYzv4R6jEOj5DkJvDyPypyL2pW8o7-5tpbp3frH-DvfSHRTy7NEwabIg7t5hrIB54FNIOogHnpjFrx-Hu9ZVsZHp8dmgBTAwB8REWPrZJWnYXrD-uElB7SjWbVrpnEZ-9AQMJto3j4YvT/s1600/IMG_20141024_151259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidYzv4R6jEOj5DkJvDyPypyL2pW8o7-5tpbp3frH-DvfSHRTy7NEwabIg7t5hrIB54FNIOogHnpjFrx-Hu9ZVsZHp8dmgBTAwB8REWPrZJWnYXrD-uElB7SjWbVrpnEZ-9AQMJto3j4YvT/s400/IMG_20141024_151259.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One fine day when I went to lunch in Bangsar,<br />
a wild storm blew through and broke a huge<br />
section out of a massive tree, literally<br />
blocking the entire street</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi69NNFnoscOa31-0MEflhgYyjetjimlEuypt7Jpgrjp9baTmgBG4BbRFfRvyhHZjEauI_PE2BNhx-pTYrz4q4pARjZaHQh5bIvZkpaQoYLaoICgqHW_0f08HYYnIe0nXVMnEMXkDvYb-0u/s1600/IMG_20141029_210723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi69NNFnoscOa31-0MEflhgYyjetjimlEuypt7Jpgrjp9baTmgBG4BbRFfRvyhHZjEauI_PE2BNhx-pTYrz4q4pARjZaHQh5bIvZkpaQoYLaoICgqHW_0f08HYYnIe0nXVMnEMXkDvYb-0u/s400/IMG_20141029_210723.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very kind invitation to an exclusive<br />
surprise event at the Ritz-Carlton gave me<br />
not only the chance to enjoy these huge Maine<br />
lobsters flown in from the States, but also<br />
the fun of teaching a dozen Malaysians<br />
how to crack them open!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZWumrqdGX9ocy1lpzpD4M-QHuW8RJTt0iPhpVrt5p1Fr4r77lOfnSHWPHwkki3ShNDcpnPDU6F0eteN6YQign-VKcIiTGNHM90aHGzQ8DsL35jmw__bZ9kpQbWLAy8r-Qzj7b7l2jIBj_/s1600/IMG_20141115_162450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZWumrqdGX9ocy1lpzpD4M-QHuW8RJTt0iPhpVrt5p1Fr4r77lOfnSHWPHwkki3ShNDcpnPDU6F0eteN6YQign-VKcIiTGNHM90aHGzQ8DsL35jmw__bZ9kpQbWLAy8r-Qzj7b7l2jIBj_/s400/IMG_20141115_162450.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another house party... more food, more fun!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTCnIiEzDho_e3dicX6kjUynpaB27BgZqpif6qXO5NSwrkmtBSbAhyNiTuPb-z0ZXK5GvHjzYMY7MQrzQnK4CZX-oj0q7oY8Jd6ZH168OK-IxjQYCR4Je9tk7hnvDcAbb_UaU4d-WmzRD1/s1600/IMG_20141023_163149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTCnIiEzDho_e3dicX6kjUynpaB27BgZqpif6qXO5NSwrkmtBSbAhyNiTuPb-z0ZXK5GvHjzYMY7MQrzQnK4CZX-oj0q7oY8Jd6ZH168OK-IxjQYCR4Je9tk7hnvDcAbb_UaU4d-WmzRD1/s400/IMG_20141023_163149.jpg" width="287" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the course of my job, I get invited to<br />
plenty of whisky and wine events, but this<br />
one was special, as it was hosted by the<br />
chairman of Glenfarclas distillery himself,<br />
and I got to sample a whole range of their<br />
whiskies, including this treat, nearly as<br />
old as me! They also unveiled the Glenfarclas<br />
60 year old at this event, but at some<br />
US$16,700 per bottle, it goes without<br />
saying we didn't get to open one of those!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN_pfyOwPlgBwwusXy2PCK321Tt6tNbCNWnvE4qhsVhq5GJTcx51H7jxxy9QM1ZraR3WMSkCcljxbV4Tc4ChLoNi94B1J20HXsJ2Tu-BywtLq3cs8iLwqTUXBb2unDLHDPPl1pCWul2i6p/s1600/IMG_20141119_195045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN_pfyOwPlgBwwusXy2PCK321Tt6tNbCNWnvE4qhsVhq5GJTcx51H7jxxy9QM1ZraR3WMSkCcljxbV4Tc4ChLoNi94B1J20HXsJ2Tu-BywtLq3cs8iLwqTUXBb2unDLHDPPl1pCWul2i6p/s400/IMG_20141119_195045.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">November 2014, this was as I was getting<br />
settled in on my Etihad flight to Abu Dhabi,<br />
then on to New York... was going home<br />
for the Thanksgiving holiday</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiusq5PrQpqzAewdA-2NB2tCDu1xJTo7ZYvk2OoHInjNMwmr3QLwvODVeq3GBshB_JWXEJ2VnNtpGhR4pSV99VBPO3H4jluDY8yllYO7SUMYGwxdFxHmfQg8q5YRfvMkVNHzQvF3lVyFAj0/s1600/IMG_20141201_155947.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiusq5PrQpqzAewdA-2NB2tCDu1xJTo7ZYvk2OoHInjNMwmr3QLwvODVeq3GBshB_JWXEJ2VnNtpGhR4pSV99VBPO3H4jluDY8yllYO7SUMYGwxdFxHmfQg8q5YRfvMkVNHzQvF3lVyFAj0/s400/IMG_20141201_155947.jpg" width="270" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This magnificent creature (no, not me!)<br />
is a hyacinth macaw, the world's largest<br />
parrot (and one of staggering value, too).<br />
This guy was exceptionally friendly<br />
and I spent about half an hour with<br />
him while Shiloh, my considerably<br />
smaller and greener parrot, was<br />
being groomed at the bird store<br />
in my Englewood, Colorado<br />
neighborhood</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWNjXPuV2shfuwuZoZnCG3bT-jNIqbS2q-tNmL289Wkk6xaa6CRHpZcmYDSjAYHAYNL5i_LwMnjXSIUoHDxyUIx1Ed-pFcQnkRw5a_rI5B5p0tIm11sS-0MK3owzkwMGWvzu0HQZEH80bv/s1600/IMG_20141222_203509.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWNjXPuV2shfuwuZoZnCG3bT-jNIqbS2q-tNmL289Wkk6xaa6CRHpZcmYDSjAYHAYNL5i_LwMnjXSIUoHDxyUIx1Ed-pFcQnkRw5a_rI5B5p0tIm11sS-0MK3owzkwMGWvzu0HQZEH80bv/s400/IMG_20141222_203509.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Despite the sign, this is actually at a newly opened Quizno's<br />
sub shop in Damansara Perdana. I was so excited to see this<br />
(Quizno's is a Denver-based company), and was pointing and <br />
telling the guys behind the counter, "That's my home city,<br />
that's where I'm from." They were completely unimpressed.<br />
Indeed, they could have hardly been any more<br />
nonplussed by my proclamation.... ah well</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0rUbrfGp2urDYnmvZrhUaroRGB86DbDPeL8Iml_nXgjxGKz-2onDeJGrumP_1KAfJVvMbKF69Q57IxYLGpV0LFT5gDWNyB6HxiH7NVgkNjII1upkS4A814sQijYKGExRhwdL7tmCvAgQg/s1600/IMG_20150102_134728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0rUbrfGp2urDYnmvZrhUaroRGB86DbDPeL8Iml_nXgjxGKz-2onDeJGrumP_1KAfJVvMbKF69Q57IxYLGpV0LFT5gDWNyB6HxiH7NVgkNjII1upkS4A814sQijYKGExRhwdL7tmCvAgQg/s400/IMG_20150102_134728.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the OCBC Skyway at the Gardens by the<br />
Bay in Singapore, with the triple towers<br />
of the Marina Bay Sands, the world's<br />
second-most expensive building ever<br />
constructed, estimated at some US$6 billion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs0Rrlkep1xwSL63ADB73u4EpequVGSNJqWbUwITqJP1pfBfrt_pbxBnfDQ5Ni2nvKxsFzXcuEhTy66R5mtZkDHQMYj9DWNY2y-MPIvNS1LNJAOo9WOb7ZvbpApfZhuwJDxoyJctnJmLdf/s1600/IMG_20150116_185940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs0Rrlkep1xwSL63ADB73u4EpequVGSNJqWbUwITqJP1pfBfrt_pbxBnfDQ5Ni2nvKxsFzXcuEhTy66R5mtZkDHQMYj9DWNY2y-MPIvNS1LNJAOo9WOb7ZvbpApfZhuwJDxoyJctnJmLdf/s400/IMG_20150116_185940.jpg" width="306" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another trip to Langkawi, this time for the<br />
13th annual Langkawi regatta. Snapped this<br />
picture at the evening cocktail event<br />
on the beach by the Westin Resort</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2YB3YTE0Q53DBLDtqKNrCF9TWD7EebAKG03dFVexyLlDCZDEkSl8vnT46QtG-Q42tcuRqpkkBkFyWf9ADK_blrZgvyOCVDAlLfTapoba8hgajgW6qjg5L59gyUWTLoqfCfE0pKkreAykA/s1600/IMG_20150117_170332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2YB3YTE0Q53DBLDtqKNrCF9TWD7EebAKG03dFVexyLlDCZDEkSl8vnT46QtG-Q42tcuRqpkkBkFyWf9ADK_blrZgvyOCVDAlLfTapoba8hgajgW6qjg5L59gyUWTLoqfCfE0pKkreAykA/s400/IMG_20150117_170332.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apart from nice beaches and luxury resorts, Langkawi has<br />
a lot of appeal as a duty-free island, indeed one of the<br />
world's cheapest markets for booze (usually considerably<br />
cheaper than airports). Note the RM10 bottle of<br />
Creme de Cacao on the right. That's less than US$3.<br />
At restaurants in Langkawi, it's not uncommon for<br />
cans of beer to be cheaper than soda</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOXfMWffTTuxlITFJKOGRV3_JtAddU9AT0NT2YzORf3nDnN8A8W7noJiBjtFrg0fpi5CUX97mJK7O718vcxYs0a5ZtK3v4kbnJ3JEBqp0a9mqtC03sFSw1EaBosI-lR5ReTe_Gr6b4IFd6/s1600/IMG_20150131_082444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOXfMWffTTuxlITFJKOGRV3_JtAddU9AT0NT2YzORf3nDnN8A8W7noJiBjtFrg0fpi5CUX97mJK7O718vcxYs0a5ZtK3v4kbnJ3JEBqp0a9mqtC03sFSw1EaBosI-lR5ReTe_Gr6b4IFd6/s400/IMG_20150131_082444.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About two weeks after the regatta, I went<br />
back to Langkawi again for a mangrove<br />
planting project. This odd-looking little guy,<br />
snapped hanging out on a playground at Berjaya<br />
Langkawi Resort with some of his pals<br />
is a dusky leaf monkey, the more docile<br />
counterpoint to the more common and far<br />
naughtier long-tailed macaques seen there</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgmPEne_ThcT2R-6n2udboOT-ZSoW5nbUuoUE-AYpaluo_ewQLFUNgGnKHJcstMrrL5Tsji8qqS5iiMD16L8RWunPxdKmg_IJTBHF24EH3FgemuCXmKERLulxSeM1VEkO2T33gmY45_6MV/s1600/IMG_20150131_093810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgmPEne_ThcT2R-6n2udboOT-ZSoW5nbUuoUE-AYpaluo_ewQLFUNgGnKHJcstMrrL5Tsji8qqS5iiMD16L8RWunPxdKmg_IJTBHF24EH3FgemuCXmKERLulxSeM1VEkO2T33gmY45_6MV/s400/IMG_20150131_093810.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here's part of our group on the mudflats of Kuala Teriang<br />
in Langkawi. The area was wiped clean by the 2004<br />
tsunami, so we planted hundreds of mangrove saplings<br />
in a bid to rebuild the coastal defenses of this part of the island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimsmq-4IA9X7TjsonFtNYzBn7mFApB9Uh3on0zNtj1DnKN24ZkxnMU1bbb2cJesGmdkZW8CBStFHOz77fDGM2AQ_Duv5y8sPOHUkhJDJbJmm9NTfIB0Zo3Derz89dZ0UCqzICA8Pe3O6Fj/s1600/IMG_20150202_142530.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimsmq-4IA9X7TjsonFtNYzBn7mFApB9Uh3on0zNtj1DnKN24ZkxnMU1bbb2cJesGmdkZW8CBStFHOz77fDGM2AQ_Duv5y8sPOHUkhJDJbJmm9NTfIB0Zo3Derz89dZ0UCqzICA8Pe3O6Fj/s400/IMG_20150202_142530.jpg" width="292" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Following two nights at Berjaya Langkawi<br />
Resort, working with the mangrove project,<br />
I took another two nights (it was a long<br />
weekend) and stayed at the Four Seasons<br />
once again for some pure R&R...<br />
always a great place to visit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqD10mNmPpzd6PVFpwU8jDVhYZym7dbQ_9zXabzQDvZcUxc-lyPZNjm4HyK7-vxxxwTT7oeXe3sjclvLxWSjR3Y_T7m0ManDWSqWVb7pTSYX95liJMY6SD8t2ryqxq4SBadyRfe-bL8mms/s1600/IMG_20150223_184150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqD10mNmPpzd6PVFpwU8jDVhYZym7dbQ_9zXabzQDvZcUxc-lyPZNjm4HyK7-vxxxwTT7oeXe3sjclvLxWSjR3Y_T7m0ManDWSqWVb7pTSYX95liJMY6SD8t2ryqxq4SBadyRfe-bL8mms/s400/IMG_20150223_184150.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ahh,<i> yee sang</i>. This is a celebratory ritual<br />
unique to Chinese Malaysians during Chinese<br />
New Year. Sliced sashimi is presented with<br />
colorful dried noodles and veggies, a<br />
flavorful sauce is poured over it, then everyone<br />
digs in with chopsticks, tossing the <i>yee sang</i><br />
riotously. The higher and messier, the more<br />
good luck you'll have in the coming year.<br />
Snapped this at a CNY celebration at<br />
Marini's on 57 in February 2015</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXN3S1RHyvJsNBVKzFRatruNtntgvFqPVsV0-So-cVOhdLvErrgJ3qv24-9EGeXGU0VR4mkNzAGfGEeT8hhuUXKjEttTnb13CvyImoR_rOUC1-ymlGT0A2IjK0iY4K4GDmtYrE149i-T5O/s1600/IMG_20150313_184339.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXN3S1RHyvJsNBVKzFRatruNtntgvFqPVsV0-So-cVOhdLvErrgJ3qv24-9EGeXGU0VR4mkNzAGfGEeT8hhuUXKjEttTnb13CvyImoR_rOUC1-ymlGT0A2IjK0iY4K4GDmtYrE149i-T5O/s400/IMG_20150313_184339.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">KL's famous "eat street," Jalan Alor. Wildly popular with<br />
tourists and locals alike, this street in the heart of the<br />
city is the place to go for a cross-section of Malaysia's<br />
best street food, with most of the emphasis being<br />
on Malaysian Chinese cuisine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjESy7QFIGHOhSt_mwgiVXFAvvmS0mzZ7wo1tZcVvd2GXohk2B5o9yaPEjnO2-xMddmzvfSJUQ9C4pZn1UyX6QrJz91ZkjcBbabJRgi41GWbUHBiROdI09X0aHRbG33AcKzbDKj8U7H6ETF/s1600/IMG_20150321_210007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjESy7QFIGHOhSt_mwgiVXFAvvmS0mzZ7wo1tZcVvd2GXohk2B5o9yaPEjnO2-xMddmzvfSJUQ9C4pZn1UyX6QrJz91ZkjcBbabJRgi41GWbUHBiROdI09X0aHRbG33AcKzbDKj8U7H6ETF/s400/IMG_20150321_210007.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This gorgeous presentation is an<br />
incredible roasted lobster and king crab<br />
salad at the Shangri-La's fine French<br />
dining outlet Lafite, truly one of KL's<br />
oldest and best French restaurants</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ8fjIEvvVaAzkgAiILBxLnpuLsjdt9n4hE4Y701Aihrdh9Z6cMJn1G2xyFCGjewsDRUHeLES8ejp9O6ARHEtEFSH5v6x9R9q2VM7RGTm2ddtd44ndM6CE_PACrW3w8Ox7iPTxbzHGgUFm/s1600/IMG_20150407_165313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ8fjIEvvVaAzkgAiILBxLnpuLsjdt9n4hE4Y701Aihrdh9Z6cMJn1G2xyFCGjewsDRUHeLES8ejp9O6ARHEtEFSH5v6x9R9q2VM7RGTm2ddtd44ndM6CE_PACrW3w8Ox7iPTxbzHGgUFm/s400/IMG_20150407_165313.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting a trim! I've been going to the same<br />
stylist at the well-known Ish Salon in<br />
Bangsar for a couple of years</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtF4p2DYYZs6LBlemDNdBVUnWPBRJ7W0cXK1812N5wc6hEZLa5oJZUa7u9PsZueJ2VT52Ef1x9YB9orlCkswP1jeltvIz5upuAd4AgPwiUjrL2c4LBToH4IjswQMSlIRk_Sr3NU-tZbIsa/s1600/IMG_20150408_184902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtF4p2DYYZs6LBlemDNdBVUnWPBRJ7W0cXK1812N5wc6hEZLa5oJZUa7u9PsZueJ2VT52Ef1x9YB9orlCkswP1jeltvIz5upuAd4AgPwiUjrL2c4LBToH4IjswQMSlIRk_Sr3NU-tZbIsa/s400/IMG_20150408_184902.jpg" width="282" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another popular street food scene, this one<br />
near the Ampang Park LRT station by<br />
KLCC; sweet corn, freshly steamed,<br />
served with butter, sugar, and salt</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii2mhaDlym6okiJYbVqlk2nmf6dlx02394DkYe8NBS74ZutkFYE7LGEEfj_qwtzgxAyQDIDAOFhAgRNupnsfWrqQ8ay_9lG-s3hnpLTW-pN4RLcDjfoEk-WmdSxY0rHV9Q6Uh8ZarQ-fJ1/s1600/IMG_20150418_132004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii2mhaDlym6okiJYbVqlk2nmf6dlx02394DkYe8NBS74ZutkFYE7LGEEfj_qwtzgxAyQDIDAOFhAgRNupnsfWrqQ8ay_9lG-s3hnpLTW-pN4RLcDjfoEk-WmdSxY0rHV9Q6Uh8ZarQ-fJ1/s400/IMG_20150418_132004.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another trip to Langkawi, this one in mid-April<br />
2015; my third trip to the island in three<br />
months' time. This shot was taken at the<br />
stunning new Els Golf Course up on Datai Bay<br />
in the northwestern part of the island. I don't<br />
actually golf, but was in attendance for a<br />
charity fundraising event held there</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIhCOhbPU7cCWpzz1hL1is_cNduannufNGHbIVKzld1dHvrxUf5GGqQ3PVDQuJuZH9azBcjFSRhEEEKlzy-fOPI3Za3S_PPbo0654pgWyUe2aMoSeedvOT_JJ4ahTEa7eJguhd88AmBefy/s1600/IMG-20150202-WA0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIhCOhbPU7cCWpzz1hL1is_cNduannufNGHbIVKzld1dHvrxUf5GGqQ3PVDQuJuZH9azBcjFSRhEEEKlzy-fOPI3Za3S_PPbo0654pgWyUe2aMoSeedvOT_JJ4ahTEa7eJguhd88AmBefy/s400/IMG-20150202-WA0002.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once again taking advantage of the duty-free happiness<br />
Langkawi offers... even the excellent Calphalon pan<br />
was a mere US$13, less than half of what it would<br />
cost elsewhere in Malaysia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjanmCjFZSjsTXqNaokvdCvFOHXL4fcr-PtEIYUTMoh5-AcTbiouFJ2jQwGawlrmzCtlhE-qRnfZFuWn_kwfGJRWNREqudgAF0ZEybKfjuKH5slFkb_787aiR3WDzbcHAoFF3zx-rKGSLTq/s1600/DSC01096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjanmCjFZSjsTXqNaokvdCvFOHXL4fcr-PtEIYUTMoh5-AcTbiouFJ2jQwGawlrmzCtlhE-qRnfZFuWn_kwfGJRWNREqudgAF0ZEybKfjuKH5slFkb_787aiR3WDzbcHAoFF3zx-rKGSLTq/s400/DSC01096.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It wouldn't be proper to have a blog entry like this without<br />
a dim sum photo; I visit my favorite place in<br />
Damansara Jaya at least twice a month, usually,<br />
and their succulent fresh-steamed <i>siew mai</i> is<br />
consistently fantastic. Snapped this shot with my<br />
little Sony compact camera on a recent outing there</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT4dURJ4Wu7TCWmw4Ec_XBHuaqLjThuZWpUvZzsULBz8e03zoNWgom-_L0Shxm-MZpTI4SBpXeL7770sV7NPZ8DovJo1vqg19WlZ278ptB_kHluupWDyWQf1Akgvfha4sBRyVb3GIq9fDy/s1600/IMG_20150426_194011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT4dURJ4Wu7TCWmw4Ec_XBHuaqLjThuZWpUvZzsULBz8e03zoNWgom-_L0Shxm-MZpTI4SBpXeL7770sV7NPZ8DovJo1vqg19WlZ278ptB_kHluupWDyWQf1Akgvfha4sBRyVb3GIq9fDy/s400/IMG_20150426_194011.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Satay is a popular food here, and this is<br />
typically how it's served – with cucumbers,<br />
red onions, and cubes of sticky rice... and<br />
of course plenty of spicy peanut sauce!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtVlup3ZjyFHAHZbE4olfUmv8j8-1mim8hBYA2E3eXHPdsElJRwiJLl2vwfip1rjHwHmhBo2sm2_OUufJ6jbMmUJctTRgWlLcz8H8Pq49FvP-Ws6hkEBubolzOtciEW6fIwuuqgAhdy7Y4/s1600/IMG_20150429_081356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtVlup3ZjyFHAHZbE4olfUmv8j8-1mim8hBYA2E3eXHPdsElJRwiJLl2vwfip1rjHwHmhBo2sm2_OUufJ6jbMmUJctTRgWlLcz8H8Pq49FvP-Ws6hkEBubolzOtciEW6fIwuuqgAhdy7Y4/s400/IMG_20150429_081356.jpg" width="330" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm not an alcoholic, I just love a good deal! This<br />
was at Tokyo's Narita airport en route to the States<br />
at the tail end of April. This 17-year-old<br />
Taketsuru goes for US$140 in Denver, and even<br />
more here in KL. This bottle? A scant ¥3500,<br />
which is only about US$29. I need hardly<br />
mention that I grabbed a bottle to purchase<br />
immediately <span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">after snapping this pic :)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsk0vHYva2J1V4WiJxCgIYiuRU8qQ33JJoHtEbs0FDxR2ntoSFW464m_9ENHWnPScmxnAdVZ4gouh54MZmwS5LuNfJ7DZeoAFBY9Ua3HG4OwFeZPdaPwSHvlJAqWLuS5V5Dh7LlcdfLPV2/s1600/IMG_20150429_212059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsk0vHYva2J1V4WiJxCgIYiuRU8qQ33JJoHtEbs0FDxR2ntoSFW464m_9ENHWnPScmxnAdVZ4gouh54MZmwS5LuNfJ7DZeoAFBY9Ua3HG4OwFeZPdaPwSHvlJAqWLuS5V5Dh7LlcdfLPV2/s400/IMG_20150429_212059.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was pretty fun. As the second meal service on the Japan Airlines<br />
flight <span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">from Tokyo to Chicago, we got our "assemble it yourself"</span><br />
burger from Japan's wildly popular fast food chain MOS<br />
(second only to McDonald's there), hence the "AirMOS"<br />
moniker. It was really quite delicious!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNVFIRinaXy2M9kmFoq6323QAKgN6NYuQ8FyKs2dTFPzT5KswenjfsCU25XQVwGzComwmkpUhtDmguZ84UwTI3HfoAz055Jr9jrTfSQTpr7uSStvekXKF1tM-IEe-47kJyU19sa7icYps-/s1600/IMG_20150504_192906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNVFIRinaXy2M9kmFoq6323QAKgN6NYuQ8FyKs2dTFPzT5KswenjfsCU25XQVwGzComwmkpUhtDmguZ84UwTI3HfoAz055Jr9jrTfSQTpr7uSStvekXKF1tM-IEe-47kJyU19sa7icYps-/s400/IMG_20150504_192906.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ahhh, Mexican food and yummy<br />
margaritas, always a highlight of any<br />
trip back to Colorado!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm3Vyl3BD5RCFkSclphA7eXyeJ5A3qXUrm4_nA-JbZdk7Mg_4_q2m1nZnW1Ge17hnSYFMU71_cCXpLP06i6Zsfxfo-CsKWZLr2CFA47ws9bhbh_ZktzrPNxDvekRZ6a0XLiwk0ksbBwl0g/s1600/IMG-20141123-WA0015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm3Vyl3BD5RCFkSclphA7eXyeJ5A3qXUrm4_nA-JbZdk7Mg_4_q2m1nZnW1Ge17hnSYFMU71_cCXpLP06i6Zsfxfo-CsKWZLr2CFA47ws9bhbh_ZktzrPNxDvekRZ6a0XLiwk0ksbBwl0g/s400/IMG-20141123-WA0015.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here's Shiloh, posing on a plate<br />
in my mother's cupboard, likely while<br />
I was making breakfast one morning</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgei1PoxCT2iX3sZm9XqoZr9CP_JenEbHR51JBHX3YUH0p_pFBN1Aq31amSYlJfUEl59g5JmMjVM1M4-kjGjC1yzKs7lxn-46D0DxVrl8vIWGABtBO-rBxIzAHkwIExpQfeOgjSCVnzBDDj/s1600/IMG_20150507_171043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgei1PoxCT2iX3sZm9XqoZr9CP_JenEbHR51JBHX3YUH0p_pFBN1Aq31amSYlJfUEl59g5JmMjVM1M4-kjGjC1yzKs7lxn-46D0DxVrl8vIWGABtBO-rBxIzAHkwIExpQfeOgjSCVnzBDDj/s400/IMG_20150507_171043.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Along with Japanese whiskies, the crazy flavors of KitKats<br />
in Japan is another fun thing to seek out. Sadly, I didn't<br />
find any of the really unusual ones, but this strawberry<br />
one was one of four flavors I purchased</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBc01ckbMitfSgyKrBrBWEu2q-Pv6d_v1aEH-LMQWO01WKHyFut5KGRTgzETjL7bM3LolpZoUWSXjSJt9naSyZdu6MHD-Ig3StPvbO8TLa22sEsGoFkPqkcZQZGS5oCK1aO7B4wzFvocbc/s1600/IMG_20150507_213152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBc01ckbMitfSgyKrBrBWEu2q-Pv6d_v1aEH-LMQWO01WKHyFut5KGRTgzETjL7bM3LolpZoUWSXjSJt9naSyZdu6MHD-Ig3StPvbO8TLa22sEsGoFkPqkcZQZGS5oCK1aO7B4wzFvocbc/s400/IMG_20150507_213152.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love this photo... so sharp and clean. I found<br />
a nice sushi restaurant called Ginzo near my hotel<br />
in <span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Tokyo, where I stayed for a couple of nights</span><br />
on the return trip back from the U.S.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPPTY4XmmTQJa_gUFov7Tj85k6clSL-UMdQXkx594nvtSfzZcuOzNFzzhG8880Lh2AYMHrwYOYA0qMhZTjtr3SZi6qR6bO3bJKcHlvQ1Kg4YtHGt8RuPawycB2PIOHDkxS2FuPfX_SdNhT/s1600/IMG_20150507_213748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPPTY4XmmTQJa_gUFov7Tj85k6clSL-UMdQXkx594nvtSfzZcuOzNFzzhG8880Lh2AYMHrwYOYA0qMhZTjtr3SZi6qR6bO3bJKcHlvQ1Kg4YtHGt8RuPawycB2PIOHDkxS2FuPfX_SdNhT/s400/IMG_20150507_213748.jpg" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sushi! This was my dinner... 10 different<br />
types of sushi and a tuna maki roll</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYP7WUiiGx3p8CrEBtDwxT6sODaGMqJjKhTAycZH7Ap3mrN4TBoEmPUPPhVVGIUYX38RPp43zMJyp_yy6mTw5BwXJigcIwBk-JUHJtfEjYdds7kMbmfabDteOoqjs3HsVbQro6azRovvwG/s1600/IMG_20150508_081405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYP7WUiiGx3p8CrEBtDwxT6sODaGMqJjKhTAycZH7Ap3mrN4TBoEmPUPPhVVGIUYX38RPp43zMJyp_yy6mTw5BwXJigcIwBk-JUHJtfEjYdds7kMbmfabDteOoqjs3HsVbQro6azRovvwG/s400/IMG_20150508_081405.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breakfast at Aman Tokyo, Japanese style.<br />
I had a more international-style breakfast<br />
the next morning, but wanted at least one<br />
very Japanese brekkie to start a day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzBTQIpHai6l2T7_XDj5-M8QuRLKYScMTdB_aupeksvcaR2lc-0DuwX4McJUF7pQUSbDipIoKLSBnMAtbq7ya57kKbEyyXRmUAOsC6DizTFgEQdOiNsN4XFt8h92RIpdWR-c94kIE-m9I1/s1600/IMG_20150508_133655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzBTQIpHai6l2T7_XDj5-M8QuRLKYScMTdB_aupeksvcaR2lc-0DuwX4McJUF7pQUSbDipIoKLSBnMAtbq7ya57kKbEyyXRmUAOsC6DizTFgEQdOiNsN4XFt8h92RIpdWR-c94kIE-m9I1/s400/IMG_20150508_133655.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And yep, I went right back to Ginzo the next day for more<br />
sushi... this was all part of their set lunch, which came<br />
with the <i>chawan mushi</i> and miso soup. Excellent!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYT-DN45ghOekNA2-GGmyyuUnjOShjP2csNUjM2rFjGAi9vWfDSbDRDHWwhsIAlSSodWZt3nlXHbQ1O90NlvG0yEPTJVkI48nzUSC5wMxhbq6oTFjoINkb5jQszQbaLQ2wq7iZ2wF7UaZq/s1600/IMG_20150508_163727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYT-DN45ghOekNA2-GGmyyuUnjOShjP2csNUjM2rFjGAi9vWfDSbDRDHWwhsIAlSSodWZt3nlXHbQ1O90NlvG0yEPTJVkI48nzUSC5wMxhbq6oTFjoINkb5jQszQbaLQ2wq7iZ2wF7UaZq/s400/IMG_20150508_163727.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The impressive sky lobby of Aman Tokyo,<br />
on the 33rd floor of the Otemachi Tower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs2zAOs14aS9aFYfz2woNM5GIu4PNWPJ8oBsyPx7A5vzc5-rdgKQ4LJPvOVL5iDs6lIuMzDS4bXKLhcbOB3Waop9XcFF6IPzUT17xvL32_iUul8zW0Tr0a6AKBity4EVFOZux1FlEURMnh/s1600/IMG_20150509_064933.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs2zAOs14aS9aFYfz2woNM5GIu4PNWPJ8oBsyPx7A5vzc5-rdgKQ4LJPvOVL5iDs6lIuMzDS4bXKLhcbOB3Waop9XcFF6IPzUT17xvL32_iUul8zW0Tr0a6AKBity4EVFOZux1FlEURMnh/s400/IMG_20150509_064933.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning at Aman Tokyo,<br />
a more classically European breakfast, I suppose, with<br />
Norwegian salmon, a selection of Italian meats, and an<br />
excellent French croissant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzBI8s-qr8Dy1fP68KYCmyrsadmCH6jRzPtBeUUGRTfBI2CAmVg-kYtwBVlFDRkYGhdCa35PUThtDbsVGzUP6IdqhjnPvETY2nndJPAmQI6GCq_9-hBfby0wnUJvv62OdRDePPAFi8Ca3/s1600/IMG_20150509_070556.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzBI8s-qr8Dy1fP68KYCmyrsadmCH6jRzPtBeUUGRTfBI2CAmVg-kYtwBVlFDRkYGhdCa35PUThtDbsVGzUP6IdqhjnPvETY2nndJPAmQI6GCq_9-hBfby0wnUJvv62OdRDePPAFi8Ca3/s400/IMG_20150509_070556.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And a lovely eggs Benedict with frankly a bit<br />
too much wilted spinach, but still a nice photo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQCLyXhU8lrMgZuzaI_Vc_xfArlW4Ij4mezD29qfOtg65EGXnQYE73am9aZ-JJQdX-7mJEz7r3Ly4Wu2-T9U3F_s7rd99UrWmH_F9PhRclJj7DbO7uBvvhfy9NxzQ1MSQJTfriuPCjay10/s1600/IMG_20150518_210102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQCLyXhU8lrMgZuzaI_Vc_xfArlW4Ij4mezD29qfOtg65EGXnQYE73am9aZ-JJQdX-7mJEz7r3Ly4Wu2-T9U3F_s7rd99UrWmH_F9PhRclJj7DbO7uBvvhfy9NxzQ1MSQJTfriuPCjay10/s400/IMG_20150518_210102.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I snapped this because I was comparing prices for micro SD<br />
cards and couldn't remember all these numbers, but it also<br />
highlights a very new development in Malaysia: the<br />
rollout of GST (goods and services tax), which has<br />
caused a whole lot of frustration and hand-wringing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGgq9LpULmKf4DDGe7JJgntp1Xbj2q7Rs92aK80rG9sqSkA2cEHTkt4CpxksNMBJBm4oUM_uGtDNdEoVjt7c7MwksRD-EzDmydXBjkyN-fZM-sW02li8pPKWWXkupNdWCLNeF_rAgsWG8E/s1600/DSC_0715.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGgq9LpULmKf4DDGe7JJgntp1Xbj2q7Rs92aK80rG9sqSkA2cEHTkt4CpxksNMBJBm4oUM_uGtDNdEoVjt7c7MwksRD-EzDmydXBjkyN-fZM-sW02li8pPKWWXkupNdWCLNeF_rAgsWG8E/s400/DSC_0715.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nice view of the Petronas Twin Towers<br />
taken from Nobu restaurant, on the 56th floor of<br />
the adjacent Petronas Tower 3; I was <span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">there</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">for the official grand opening on May 20, 2015</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSeDfqbcTJXLofxMvIaXsf95rePtm8UIEIXu3uKvUJ_J1qrbJ1jRgfMXFwHVGp4ylpVmCnHIjYJNjeuwB-FEilI4OcEkpL9yJtE7eOudZSdAFWYpi8_p8Xwz-Qy2an1LQt-Ngut4bINhFB/s1600/DSC_0752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSeDfqbcTJXLofxMvIaXsf95rePtm8UIEIXu3uKvUJ_J1qrbJ1jRgfMXFwHVGp4ylpVmCnHIjYJNjeuwB-FEilI4OcEkpL9yJtE7eOudZSdAFWYpi8_p8Xwz-Qy2an1LQt-Ngut4bINhFB/s400/DSC_0752.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here's Chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa himself, along with<br />
Nobu partner Robert De Niro (who has also apparently dabbled<br />
in a wee bit of acting here and there) and his wife<br />
Grace Hightower (snapped this with my Nikon, not<br />
my phone, as the lighting was quite dim)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
So that's a tour through my phone over the last year and a half... just some of the highlights. The next entry, which I'm working on now, will have more details and photos from my trip back to the States and my stopover in Japan on the way back!Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-4774247965607087892015-04-24T00:01:00.003-06:002015-05-18T01:13:11.222-06:00Cruise Myanmar! The Road to Mandalay, part 2<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeav41zv8lwY7HrWV-gsdxOoEukN9B4wOUOinb7VBaCz0KM2fXjJgmYrJiUwEZxXPazSxITiKCgrY7iO3JiZ4bboRvdNP9yWcUYqD3j5Kq_28ivtTeapnKT96Y39GipEBt4MyN0-e3M3oA/s1600/RTM-MAP-03+(Large).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeav41zv8lwY7HrWV-gsdxOoEukN9B4wOUOinb7VBaCz0KM2fXjJgmYrJiUwEZxXPazSxITiKCgrY7iO3JiZ4bboRvdNP9yWcUYqD3j5Kq_28ivtTeapnKT96Y39GipEBt4MyN0-e3M3oA/s1600/RTM-MAP-03+(Large).jpg" width="217" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We cruised down the Irrawaddy from<br />
west of Sagaing to Pagan (Bagan)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So as we wrapped up the last entry (<a href="http://chadinkl.blogspot.com/2015/04/land-sea-and-air-visiting-myanmar-part-1.html" target="_blank">click here</a> to read part 1), we were just approaching our cruise ship, the Belmond <i>Road to Mandalay</i>. We had been on a 100-foot support boat making the journey from Mandalay, which was supposed to be our point of embarkation. Low river levels on the Irrawaddy, however, precluded that, so we had to take a smaller boat to reach the 333-foot river cruiser moored three hours downriver. It was nearing sunset, and after a very early morning flight in from Yangon, followed by six hours of touring around Mandalay, lunch, and a three-hour journey on the river, seeing the stately cruise ship in the day's fading sunlight was definitely a welcome sight, and a wonderful feeling.<br />
<br />
Our boat pulled up alongside the <i>Road to Mandalay</i>, and we were enthusiastically greeted by the crew as we boarded the ship. The reception area was quite posh, and after a day of buses, hot and dusty weather, and a support boat that was more industrial than luxury, walking into the spacious reception area of the cruise ship was like a soothing balm for the soul.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4CCGp18U2X56wwAwqFALh12nnrRx1MHYlva62BPd_28_Xc5Im1U4ivuhgXI7wg6KidPEYcKaO3bbM31ZjSfMBo5Izso4qZsZXKp_qDnVbM1xK_K9swWI8ZUtJPhVDng8OXnmLhg39OeMX/s1600/RTM-EXT-MAL-02+(Large).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4CCGp18U2X56wwAwqFALh12nnrRx1MHYlva62BPd_28_Xc5Im1U4ivuhgXI7wg6KidPEYcKaO3bbM31ZjSfMBo5Izso4qZsZXKp_qDnVbM1xK_K9swWI8ZUtJPhVDng8OXnmLhg39OeMX/s1600/RTM-EXT-MAL-02+(Large).jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The classy Belmond <i>Road to Mandalay</i><br />
(photo courtesy of Belmond)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our bags were discreetly whisked away to our respective cabins while we enjoyed cool towels and welcome drinks, the handful of us that there were on board chattering amiably away. Then we were escorted to our rooms. I was fortunate to have a beautiful State Cabin on the main deck, just down the hall from reception, and was amazed when I walked in. Spacious, posh, absolutely refined and elegant... I couldn't quite believe I was on a boat! The two windows were quite large, there was a 32" Sony flatscreen TV (with satellite cable service), a writing desk, and all the fine amenities and fittings you'd expect in a swanky hotel room. And the bathroom was amazing... much larger than expected with both a rainfall and handheld shower, a wall covered entirely in jade tiles, very nice vanity and fixtures, super fluffy towels, and a range of Bulgari branded amenities. (More on this last point later.) I knew it was a high-end river cruiser, but I was nevertheless blown away by the size and understated elegance of the room. The pictures definitely don't do it justice. In fact, that's something that could be said in general for much of the trip... by the snapshots, the experience can only be captured in its simplest essence, of course showing the visual elements, but often failing to convey the reality of the experience itself. That notwithstanding, it sure didn't keep me from trying! After going through hundreds of photos for just this entry, I was shocked that I had selected nearly 150. I trimmed it down even further and it was still around 120, a pretty staggering number of images for a blog entry. So hang on, and enjoy the story!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh52Vh0lPLzJKjElAp4PlZPp3mjhm3WbeL9DBB4AmXmdje4z0TH5yqIABDZBJjR6S4dg3XJkUU4Hs9ic5rzvtf2t-Yw9_tEwMtJAi4EIHkKo_PCLGud5MzEkg1jPCTdDbJuka9ABlPEKHkp/s1600/RTM-ACC-CAB-17+(Large).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh52Vh0lPLzJKjElAp4PlZPp3mjhm3WbeL9DBB4AmXmdje4z0TH5yqIABDZBJjR6S4dg3XJkUU4Hs9ic5rzvtf2t-Yw9_tEwMtJAi4EIHkKo_PCLGud5MzEkg1jPCTdDbJuka9ABlPEKHkp/s1600/RTM-ACC-CAB-17+(Large).jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">State Cabin class on the<i> Road to Mandalay</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4twYrxIqzdLj6H06F__blo9WddXyGf-GwbiPKyDdRiUbMGp-RAxJ8RUVxviJ0yZ_qFyGj9BXyYIUTb_l6fLVOBgGfRGNbDohd6kmSVJHNodfL5qa0WErbyYtvb4eCFOCUm2pB0Fo1K3wj/s1600/DSC_7799.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4twYrxIqzdLj6H06F__blo9WddXyGf-GwbiPKyDdRiUbMGp-RAxJ8RUVxviJ0yZ_qFyGj9BXyYIUTb_l6fLVOBgGfRGNbDohd6kmSVJHNodfL5qa0WErbyYtvb4eCFOCUm2pB0Fo1K3wj/s1600/DSC_7799.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Satellite TV, a writing desk, and plenty of natural light</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDT80MiK54ndGPaZOEDmo4tjf6RK87XOpboyct_1qxAoQNi-BKJOOzbY58Mp-eon6jhnnU9bwxWkerEcRnD9Jg6owKl6f_2RPqM7PoAv-zeA4TralsfbRIeGyYBC4-QiLsIg2g969EGZis/s1600/DSC_7818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDT80MiK54ndGPaZOEDmo4tjf6RK87XOpboyct_1qxAoQNi-BKJOOzbY58Mp-eon6jhnnU9bwxWkerEcRnD9Jg6owKl6f_2RPqM7PoAv-zeA4TralsfbRIeGyYBC4-QiLsIg2g969EGZis/s1600/DSC_7818.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shower and vanity in the bathroom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisuEXIx-wyKV2mta8xk5c62YVR-Hb1gkmC5fOp4-sANROKhVQM6ZLAlDHTdiBSA8mZIWnmFBY585Olc1dTYn0aTodJWv-ghB0_mxIqKVw7U_mbHYx2X3dbUtvdqpV9paP2csQ4bGNWeUL0/s1600/DSC_7821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisuEXIx-wyKV2mta8xk5c62YVR-Hb1gkmC5fOp4-sANROKhVQM6ZLAlDHTdiBSA8mZIWnmFBY585Olc1dTYn0aTodJWv-ghB0_mxIqKVw7U_mbHYx2X3dbUtvdqpV9paP2csQ4bGNWeUL0/s1600/DSC_7821.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The vanity and collection of Bulgari<br />
bath goodies, restocked every day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbqbPlJFVld4_s-WYyw2vonqhczKh-N7BFC2eAoataqW3gFE6FGySLe_mFb2dfFa_SuuNpXuCksSPH4iQfmEOysSIyvg2z_NWbj0CJOu0LP0J6gdusGxV0du3Jm2KHyfe3cD3d9GOQ2bpy/s1600/DSC_7942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbqbPlJFVld4_s-WYyw2vonqhczKh-N7BFC2eAoataqW3gFE6FGySLe_mFb2dfFa_SuuNpXuCksSPH4iQfmEOysSIyvg2z_NWbj0CJOu0LP0J6gdusGxV0du3Jm2KHyfe3cD3d9GOQ2bpy/s1600/DSC_7942.JPG" width="252" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thick, fluffy towels and a jade-tiled wall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After enjoying a beautiful sunset from the observation deck, I returned to my cabin to shower and get cleaned up for our first dinner onboard. Like most cruises, dining on the ship was always an enjoyable experience. The dining room, which spanned the full width of the ship, was fairly indistinguishable from a land-based fine dining venue with its crisp white tablecloths, high-quality cutlery and stemware, and artfully rendered napkin origami! The à la carte dinner menu offered a number of choices for each course, so we were able to put together sort of a "customized" set menu. Wines and beers were complimentary, and for the wines, we always had a local option and an imported option for both red and white. Dinner was delicious and enjoyable, so we were in no rush, and afterwards, I explored the ship a little bit, then headed back to my cabin for some reading. The turn-down service was exemplary, with the robe and slippers laid out perfectly, and everything prepped for sleeping. I was also given the option to request morning coffee or tea, delivered to my cabin at the requested time. I usually did this to have a nice hot cuppa while getting ready to go up to the dining room for breakfast. The shipboard breakfasts were quite good, though nothing jaw-dropping. There was a nice-quality buffet supplemented by cooked-to-order eggs, so it's about like you would expect in a fine hotel.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbf9Pm4pEdftA87EphCvsY6KVeIoQQmN-On4sSkKKadoX8tvqMALd0fFJ3CB-jVqvwY4wfl_cWr6WUuDqjRmEDGhAYJW3Vkd2XlN2Z399b2-drqPZVrQirL3HdVBGkcBnFB0Lz2f-bIzy1/s1600/DSC_7809.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbf9Pm4pEdftA87EphCvsY6KVeIoQQmN-On4sSkKKadoX8tvqMALd0fFJ3CB-jVqvwY4wfl_cWr6WUuDqjRmEDGhAYJW3Vkd2XlN2Z399b2-drqPZVrQirL3HdVBGkcBnFB0Lz2f-bIzy1/s1600/DSC_7809.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fiery sunset over the Irrawaddy, our first evening onboard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0VUT2Ustz4IsZtai4dsisG-5S4Uya7EaLEOA26NbXlgQYfC2BQ2KBQK-PwA5zIAltjX-tNQXfp-Dge8xreYsvyUjuEKW7gRGoycDHcyf8bBjsFW0RdR2hDPFEEJneuRUB0-dUbDlLdsWL/s1600/DSC00771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0VUT2Ustz4IsZtai4dsisG-5S4Uya7EaLEOA26NbXlgQYfC2BQ2KBQK-PwA5zIAltjX-tNQXfp-Dge8xreYsvyUjuEKW7gRGoycDHcyf8bBjsFW0RdR2hDPFEEJneuRUB0-dUbDlLdsWL/s1600/DSC00771.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our inaugural dinner on the ship was a winner,<br />
accurately foreshadowing plenty of delicious meals ahead</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGk9zXj5qXcbOSlSou-szvBhGsFj-7bl3nfB_Sd3yVVGWlj_qHKEaApjeniAK4kzA52vTc89DriRdowujBlBvEcmhGzusXbd7EYyV0wQaO9GBLLK1RuAt2CnllUGsHTpWqryseCIcXPQmE/s1600/DSC00780.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGk9zXj5qXcbOSlSou-szvBhGsFj-7bl3nfB_Sd3yVVGWlj_qHKEaApjeniAK4kzA52vTc89DriRdowujBlBvEcmhGzusXbd7EYyV0wQaO9GBLLK1RuAt2CnllUGsHTpWqryseCIcXPQmE/s1600/DSC00780.JPG" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Burmese dish, <i>Pe Kyazan Patoon Kyaw</i><br />
loaded with massive chunks of succulent<br />
river prawns... this was super tasty!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRsIZgx-cdM4el5I5OtRP-4O8Z2e7rh8_glRBtaZJSpqTGZPDP_xQl5fFAOge9NkqYgGOHccAUmcWdSG2XAgbKIPeEfzBOo3IDi9Er3mbqfZfV8QxbAslMFAJ3mWyCIvvMB_U-ZTmxohfn/s1600/IMG_20150325_193147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRsIZgx-cdM4el5I5OtRP-4O8Z2e7rh8_glRBtaZJSpqTGZPDP_xQl5fFAOge9NkqYgGOHccAUmcWdSG2XAgbKIPeEfzBOo3IDi9Er3mbqfZfV8QxbAslMFAJ3mWyCIvvMB_U-ZTmxohfn/s1600/IMG_20150325_193147.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheers! My group toasts our first shipboard meal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4dRpxAsaeyqPTyU3NMS0IBWM0-aZ5PcJBNrj8a6U8Q7mWQFfrM2NrhxojYTP-9FjnoVKEYpeL3Fe2t0oVlYiX9grfIrRZRPgvhJuv-A6GJf3q1n2ZDwvBfvJNXI63nr-9pdDc64B1dV3Z/s1600/DSC00782.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4dRpxAsaeyqPTyU3NMS0IBWM0-aZ5PcJBNrj8a6U8Q7mWQFfrM2NrhxojYTP-9FjnoVKEYpeL3Fe2t0oVlYiX9grfIrRZRPgvhJuv-A6GJf3q1n2ZDwvBfvJNXI63nr-9pdDc64B1dV3Z/s1600/DSC00782.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Like virtually everything onboard, the nightly turn-down service was<br />
exemplary... slippers and robe ready, bed perfect, everything just right</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTuavBWVAsTQtkvp5vvrsMtacw2BjvtaN1ivwIqi-oblpVXBVbMye0C6Ec7nwbFt54IFVx-AKr96X32AT3UX-7J2YKZG8enjDTCmLL1TzHk6jQnx7IiFs6PBatvfjjb50udn-1Kmx8Nady/s1600/DSC_7987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTuavBWVAsTQtkvp5vvrsMtacw2BjvtaN1ivwIqi-oblpVXBVbMye0C6Ec7nwbFt54IFVx-AKr96X32AT3UX-7J2YKZG8enjDTCmLL1TzHk6jQnx7IiFs6PBatvfjjb50udn-1Kmx8Nady/s1600/DSC_7987.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Morning coffee service, delivered promptly at the requested time</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-hfdAX4rPIR7CQR1kmGIT2cVn2yxfGbcolEViNKJ_ZFd5AwoalulkoJd2V-sijy1wssuVKfV06SWNq6vmWOhXRbuo1-Na5eVcVSPHnXMG_Uk9pdYeR4vS2mWfQ-5kDZbJZP0i7QopQ6S/s1600/DSC00792.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-hfdAX4rPIR7CQR1kmGIT2cVn2yxfGbcolEViNKJ_ZFd5AwoalulkoJd2V-sijy1wssuVKfV06SWNq6vmWOhXRbuo1-Na5eVcVSPHnXMG_Uk9pdYeR4vS2mWfQ-5kDZbJZP0i7QopQ6S/s1600/DSC00792.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The breakfast spread... not overly extravagant, but it hit<br />
virtually all the expected high points</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNE_KEKrCz6Wsc3Bj5mZ4pQ1a2aAu0tpfiwc7Ci3qNotSR9ShlUCfjPXX3EASKlXJHtZDcnu2-6Zu9ecJKPH5lX-NlGLc3cYXODrfYY_BKac0_AI02wGoFEuG46TB4J7SHf3fyPikR3gz/s1600/DSC_7989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNE_KEKrCz6Wsc3Bj5mZ4pQ1a2aAu0tpfiwc7Ci3qNotSR9ShlUCfjPXX3EASKlXJHtZDcnu2-6Zu9ecJKPH5lX-NlGLc3cYXODrfYY_BKac0_AI02wGoFEuG46TB4J7SHf3fyPikR3gz/s1600/DSC_7989.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deli meats, fresh cheeses, and smoked butterfish... yum!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjdKdPh2KiQ9qO7ArZZz1bh9i70JTrVu71vcp68rzw4y1qwLcqwCWaEFs37E76mEZ4bT3w2QWKI6_i_HVfIytAub4WtgB4Z0X0D9ObdBBNiosJa258XvzB0YwAM_SEtbUPD82NIScYr86t/s1600/DSC00802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjdKdPh2KiQ9qO7ArZZz1bh9i70JTrVu71vcp68rzw4y1qwLcqwCWaEFs37E76mEZ4bT3w2QWKI6_i_HVfIytAub4WtgB4Z0X0D9ObdBBNiosJa258XvzB0YwAM_SEtbUPD82NIScYr86t/s1600/DSC00802.JPG" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lunch buffet was different each day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8vtrTPSgqvoa5jHEHKNFyn_sHBaoy-V4SQvydjyquX18u6auT71Ss7keKinXTzSP6PJp_RWzQ51d3rdT3FDdSwo9Rb-1xEyGsF2kJbnXhEHKbnKYTQPdFZA76SIkyvuyghEbzM33wi7Sz/s1600/DSC00834.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8vtrTPSgqvoa5jHEHKNFyn_sHBaoy-V4SQvydjyquX18u6auT71Ss7keKinXTzSP6PJp_RWzQ51d3rdT3FDdSwo9Rb-1xEyGsF2kJbnXhEHKbnKYTQPdFZA76SIkyvuyghEbzM33wi7Sz/s1600/DSC00834.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the various salads – the one at the bottom of the plate is<br />
a tea leaf salad called <i>lahpet thoke</i>, a big hit with my dining group</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheGixRlhdNKvzd3MhyANRcv0zSgaUFO6NtoeaSrvnEP08kQgrpG9UbPFkAua_VLToVzOPsFGAfyVJdMnuKXvGb-zBPahhqjMI4k95zVJBdqwRZGU7Oj8kA1-f4nTu61HNTZivIJZYz6UFS/s1600/DSC00803.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheGixRlhdNKvzd3MhyANRcv0zSgaUFO6NtoeaSrvnEP08kQgrpG9UbPFkAua_VLToVzOPsFGAfyVJdMnuKXvGb-zBPahhqjMI4k95zVJBdqwRZGU7Oj8kA1-f4nTu61HNTZivIJZYz6UFS/s1600/DSC00803.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh veggies were a staple of every lunch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdBABOFPcfRcdlkhUjS_OOLDGtcAfZKgM38NTfRbL-ketYrvtPq66YtYa5ZgAWq0STiKbYohZckkZgZQQHLHTKI5562dTiuCDLNRKhDuAwWMwaDOa3lyr8MDrCEZAC_N27P6xaB39Qmvmc/s1600/DSC00805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdBABOFPcfRcdlkhUjS_OOLDGtcAfZKgM38NTfRbL-ketYrvtPq66YtYa5ZgAWq0STiKbYohZckkZgZQQHLHTKI5562dTiuCDLNRKhDuAwWMwaDOa3lyr8MDrCEZAC_N27P6xaB39Qmvmc/s1600/DSC00805.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was my favorite lunch: the river prawns we had were huge and<br />
absolutely delicious; the Basmati rice was cooked to perfection, too</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The first shore excursion was to a small village called Myinmu, about 30 miles west of Amarapura. Here, the Irrawaddy River flows from east to west, and Myinmu is the last settlement before the river curves back around and flows generally southward again. We took an enjoyable ride through the village, each of us getting our own trishaw and "driver" and visited a large morning market, a riot of activity, color, and sound. One point of interest was a pile of what looked like petite logs of firewood. In actual fact, it was <i>Shwedo thanaka</i> wood, and the bark is pulverized and mixed with water to form a beige-colored paste. The <i>thanaka </i>paste is a cultural cosmetic in Myanmar, and its use dates back some 2,000 years. It's used by women and men alike – mostly on the face, but also the arms – for its cooling sensation, delicate fragrance (similar to sandalwood), and sun protection characteristics. It's also believed to promote smooth skin, and it was extremely common to see this on the faces of Burmese people wherever we went.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUty20tN5mXuEowCkJipWLts9oWEsKYPjBdzbiEgjwaaobN8VQXqSXeWI0fSYzf3prIpRce84cvz1pqWfRwdzsx4Sg1LXB22XaIBcjKOK1mnFlaEgUG31Euu_KEPQ57DFcUfRqcoE5iZ0V/s1600/DSC_7678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUty20tN5mXuEowCkJipWLts9oWEsKYPjBdzbiEgjwaaobN8VQXqSXeWI0fSYzf3prIpRce84cvz1pqWfRwdzsx4Sg1LXB22XaIBcjKOK1mnFlaEgUG31Euu_KEPQ57DFcUfRqcoE5iZ0V/s1600/DSC_7678.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colorful boats along the riverbank</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCDhZtpSTNdfFeIfX8r_Yi9PihkrbY5AXRFvVIRtXOjN3iuDQ7TH55O34rBPvSa5lNkOXG7kEYvF6s5P4Oh7eRtoU_6wX4Ig2ejAMR7OUAqzk6A3QgWw8vvdPaQSRNf4SvslsgJfQ-T4jy/s1600/DSC_7827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCDhZtpSTNdfFeIfX8r_Yi9PihkrbY5AXRFvVIRtXOjN3iuDQ7TH55O34rBPvSa5lNkOXG7kEYvF6s5P4Oh7eRtoU_6wX4Ig2ejAMR7OUAqzk6A3QgWw8vvdPaQSRNf4SvslsgJfQ-T4jy/s1600/DSC_7827.JPG" width="251" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting out on our trishaw tour</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9nRhzCmwUKU0TmyrXkDrzph8hzAxrlS3RgDNN9OUT19bWHlJfLX18XhowsxVVrkXUEWPM5qWIn9ME2ljQeaHpKrm9HntjI_T0oy4fgrftZFOlhAjGFYcfFL5EEVOyKP6zXx073lC4l0k5/s1600/DSC_7831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9nRhzCmwUKU0TmyrXkDrzph8hzAxrlS3RgDNN9OUT19bWHlJfLX18XhowsxVVrkXUEWPM5qWIn9ME2ljQeaHpKrm9HntjI_T0oy4fgrftZFOlhAjGFYcfFL5EEVOyKP6zXx073lC4l0k5/s1600/DSC_7831.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A couple of guys in Myinmu, baby in tow, one guy with his<br />
hair dyed for the upcoming <i>Thingyan </i>festival... there surely must be<br />
a story behind this photo, but I can only guess what it might be!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0jJTjCYVNBnxC9_w6BPogbxs2V2kZjLT0t2LfRuqb0MTihpiiBptcFpiqDeLudmN1GA4UorglBcDzIoTayeqILYJKriNaBX3ACdPcFRalRLnBPF4LzXnabCLWPEPN0ww2IWsvwRCSXqrB/s1600/DSC_7836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0jJTjCYVNBnxC9_w6BPogbxs2V2kZjLT0t2LfRuqb0MTihpiiBptcFpiqDeLudmN1GA4UorglBcDzIoTayeqILYJKriNaBX3ACdPcFRalRLnBPF4LzXnabCLWPEPN0ww2IWsvwRCSXqrB/s1600/DSC_7836.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ladies near the market, selling <i>Shwedo thanaka</i> wood</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The market we visited was quite expansive and definitely fascinating. Dried chillies, mounds of powdered spices, a vast array of bewildering fruits and vegetables (some we recognized, others we definitely did not), flowers, greens, sprouts, fish, you name it. We spent probably an hour here, milling around, interacting with the locals, dodging puddles from the recent rain, and pelting our guide with a flurry of questions seemingly at every turn. In time, we mounted our trishaws again, and got pedaled to a bamboo and teak factory, which was amazing. So much of the work was done by hand. Much like the silk weaving place, the work seemed quite segregated. Men and boys had certain tasks (mostly involving moving the immense bamboo poles and teak lumber), while the women and girls had others. Watching the women work was mesmerizing. One woman would use a cleaver-type blade to strip foot-long cylinders of bamboo into thin pieces, working with a speed and confidence that spoke to considerable experience handing the knife. An older woman nearby deftly wove these strips of bamboo into a octet of long guide strips, walking along the woven panel as she went, tightening, adjusting, pressing flat. When completed – a task she carried out at a breathtaking pace – the completed panel would be set aside and the process begun again on another panel. These panels are then used as building material for fences, walls, and roofs.<br />
<br />
In a nearby area, a small group of men were guiding long beams of teak through a large circular table saw, cutting it into strips which were peeled away as the teak progressed along the table. Needless to say, not a hint of anything even vaguely resembling safety equipment was anywhere to be found.<br />
<br />
We were then pedaled back to the jetty, where we saw women doing their laundry at the river, laying out the colorful <i>longyis</i> to dry in the sun. (The <i>longyi</i> is a traditional garment worn by the Burmese, similar though not identical to a sarong.) For some reason, I always found these little vignettes of river life to be endearing and fascinating, scenes from a river-dependent human subsistence that have doubtlessly played out much the same here for scores of generations.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit5ZJKrD1fFJrRi71UeIhAGDitvIxMrlPtXR0utKyJTqfqGLnz_oNWnf6svm6PykuGD4nnCoJ57ES9rXk_2OjG6GkyHIgitAhUg4DEeV-QhiKySPU7d6AQE-ZnxrSxJ-OsPVCX5S6cEcsm/s1600/DSC_7834.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit5ZJKrD1fFJrRi71UeIhAGDitvIxMrlPtXR0utKyJTqfqGLnz_oNWnf6svm6PykuGD4nnCoJ57ES9rXk_2OjG6GkyHIgitAhUg4DEeV-QhiKySPU7d6AQE-ZnxrSxJ-OsPVCX5S6cEcsm/s1600/DSC_7834.JPG" width="230" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fruits... nearly everything was familiar<br />
to me at this particular stall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl1zVg4lr2zStww-kKKZTDiW60EIARjj-75LrxdY_2uqcYWImNdUB2AX12oh4L-3xlXexHd0cKfFhpqsF3vtOcEgbErSdCQjt1Mm9nMkIq1EC3MyRKrmN-g68cuAzuRDIrM-zmH2fztv6k/s1600/DSC_7842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl1zVg4lr2zStww-kKKZTDiW60EIARjj-75LrxdY_2uqcYWImNdUB2AX12oh4L-3xlXexHd0cKfFhpqsF3vtOcEgbErSdCQjt1Mm9nMkIq1EC3MyRKrmN-g68cuAzuRDIrM-zmH2fztv6k/s1600/DSC_7842.JPG" width="292" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bowls and bags of colorful spices</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGrM3YNPsH9lMUgfObsHqWUecSQ0UJ48P7lo2XNOsiuzQfLhmj9BYMqsxUJDwcO8jTcF5_5pAfiAry0HTevxe43FgyYe-XN-CFbWYxeh7FtADMywBDxiOLWrGz8G7ytFE3-03tV2njRCbK/s1600/DSC_7843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGrM3YNPsH9lMUgfObsHqWUecSQ0UJ48P7lo2XNOsiuzQfLhmj9BYMqsxUJDwcO8jTcF5_5pAfiAry0HTevxe43FgyYe-XN-CFbWYxeh7FtADMywBDxiOLWrGz8G7ytFE3-03tV2njRCbK/s1600/DSC_7843.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fish, eggs, veggies, and more... an amazing spread of food</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9pO85hDg8s-DmBO7JtxWcyRUcVRzwVS8gWXMKyCNVJSzvKX39OweMqgk1oRkrlvND0NewibPZLncNFK611bnUzbwHZs3hblkt_CsSSo-uj0O2U2hSsfE0ORl7bDmuC_lHz0b5e4CvZNJA/s1600/DSC_7844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9pO85hDg8s-DmBO7JtxWcyRUcVRzwVS8gWXMKyCNVJSzvKX39OweMqgk1oRkrlvND0NewibPZLncNFK611bnUzbwHZs3hblkt_CsSSo-uj0O2U2hSsfE0ORl7bDmuC_lHz0b5e4CvZNJA/s1600/DSC_7844.JPG" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I recognized only a few of the greens on offer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCStECX7RQtm3mYDlV0XAbvdXv0QoNJoXI7BXR_feFhXF-tO1bMVPmUTIXASjdGZlDYaaCMOpE8oMowpvDf_EJEMyLwSuRlk6ar3XFOHyu1GzLxH1kFedaS4a0USAfRv9-NZ7uH2DvoWmy/s1600/DSC_7846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCStECX7RQtm3mYDlV0XAbvdXv0QoNJoXI7BXR_feFhXF-tO1bMVPmUTIXASjdGZlDYaaCMOpE8oMowpvDf_EJEMyLwSuRlk6ar3XFOHyu1GzLxH1kFedaS4a0USAfRv9-NZ7uH2DvoWmy/s1600/DSC_7846.JPG" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love all the colors and shapes here</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_OkBNPxS1CBUd2d6A6MNiBkgSIYPtqAGT7xRQj40Orwh33ehuB3XBapzGaW7bIavQq0iacxZc7hNE8gTDjHQsGbtMt7IhoorUv-CaTUmzC0hgt4U4dA9WNzCxS4fJaafZYcf9nNt2AtJO/s1600/DSC_7852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_OkBNPxS1CBUd2d6A6MNiBkgSIYPtqAGT7xRQj40Orwh33ehuB3XBapzGaW7bIavQq0iacxZc7hNE8gTDjHQsGbtMt7IhoorUv-CaTUmzC0hgt4U4dA9WNzCxS4fJaafZYcf9nNt2AtJO/s1600/DSC_7852.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weighing the bean sprouts,<br />
old-school style</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAm9Z0hjspsKpGGCrUx-gJ6Auuvncd7NLDdY8Xevo4SbDPlQAOKH5yDlIJk8ypL7tziDD0UDtWUugmBgORxA69ozg6LVKPQhdZIJ_O_lNGVrixIyZFzqCx8XhrlG01sX27Od6hkidqfXM/s1600/DSC_7887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAm9Z0hjspsKpGGCrUx-gJ6Auuvncd7NLDdY8Xevo4SbDPlQAOKH5yDlIJk8ypL7tziDD0UDtWUugmBgORxA69ozg6LVKPQhdZIJ_O_lNGVrixIyZFzqCx8XhrlG01sX27Od6hkidqfXM/s1600/DSC_7887.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bamboo poles being moved and rotated during the drying<br />
process; the poles ranged from 20-30 feet in length</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEtkKIpDFK0qq4pHoeDugAJY8DlAtpIgz_9J0FbxN0NAjZHIgQCqeUL80GD6kQTbvd_r-3bpElzTPP-T-xDGagwu4bLW7s5U9LnCYJZYxhrkDz8kcKjpQ6vO3u-8l1xHZ-l3L7t2bq0wy5/s1600/DSC_7875.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEtkKIpDFK0qq4pHoeDugAJY8DlAtpIgz_9J0FbxN0NAjZHIgQCqeUL80GD6kQTbvd_r-3bpElzTPP-T-xDGagwu4bLW7s5U9LnCYJZYxhrkDz8kcKjpQ6vO3u-8l1xHZ-l3L7t2bq0wy5/s1600/DSC_7875.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the bamboo factory, girls expertly and quickly cleave uniform<br />
strips from cylinders of cut, dried bamboo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHGTjIujvXT5_qsLE2CGStQsAj-pEb_vfwC2MgeZlZHXPoEN011SRY4mnDBC7E9kqTiUnFxDnwP5-Is_SUX-z7erWqCfT7040DIAc1xPMQSeH-arPeoInmDUdkINOEsEPkRD1BQCsaqWIq/s1600/DSC_7882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHGTjIujvXT5_qsLE2CGStQsAj-pEb_vfwC2MgeZlZHXPoEN011SRY4mnDBC7E9kqTiUnFxDnwP5-Is_SUX-z7erWqCfT7040DIAc1xPMQSeH-arPeoInmDUdkINOEsEPkRD1BQCsaqWIq/s1600/DSC_7882.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Here are the sections of cut bamboo, each about a foot long,<br />
each yielding (I think) nine strips; extra bits are discarded</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYaEWVU-L3riZk6DIi_-K4OnwF18T90FVJu3KKjNU-xdUurs-H1t5oHW-WAPZZUbgE2iuYFHpOPxAN8ookCCvU_3310Dy23pDaSnlMNjCcDGdVVGu1x3ubAJ885MNdOHnswdD1lnykHDZZ/s1600/DSC_7874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYaEWVU-L3riZk6DIi_-K4OnwF18T90FVJu3KKjNU-xdUurs-H1t5oHW-WAPZZUbgE2iuYFHpOPxAN8ookCCvU_3310Dy23pDaSnlMNjCcDGdVVGu1x3ubAJ885MNdOHnswdD1lnykHDZZ/s1600/DSC_7874.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weaving the strips into a long panel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuFGVNFclLe1CalcXczSfIK6XYQs4Tj2bselyNbaSDuYDn7gKODI7vXkVKZABkNn5z37dcMIZKIsiT9_-CoeSHYkJ8NM1_7sb-RmbxomZRma4NgMbNcj5qOmAYW4TJxlM7XmcDN_d0oXYz/s1600/DSC_7879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuFGVNFclLe1CalcXczSfIK6XYQs4Tj2bselyNbaSDuYDn7gKODI7vXkVKZABkNn5z37dcMIZKIsiT9_-CoeSHYkJ8NM1_7sb-RmbxomZRma4NgMbNcj5qOmAYW4TJxlM7XmcDN_d0oXYz/s1600/DSC_7879.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ladies' lunch pails... I love this photo!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidcpKQBx1ds2_HUlZsTzzNH4ffDWXzGjG9o6yHj8qjljBzf0Ak0MsjAEYs-V6sOVFUrLQkcmiz5_dz6bgh0qBAQqTXTnjNDSRss_LWbOfZDhw-r41fjkoGVVDIgL3vS1tPG2YmcVbbMYZ7/s1600/DSC_7885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidcpKQBx1ds2_HUlZsTzzNH4ffDWXzGjG9o6yHj8qjljBzf0Ak0MsjAEYs-V6sOVFUrLQkcmiz5_dz6bgh0qBAQqTXTnjNDSRss_LWbOfZDhw-r41fjkoGVVDIgL3vS1tPG2YmcVbbMYZ7/s1600/DSC_7885.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Over on the men's side, power tools do the serious work of slicing<br />
long beams of hard teak wood into strips</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFjzGryzbjJps03SBX2TkAiey7k62yUieQwV4-X3WOTLxOii3ehz7k-v3RsLpfcVvI_XHn2Ue8dN93EPjS48naM_dj0CFdICVD3qnn_tj7-aQ6FrbpDTt3oQSMqaUJnpoHsq7fKk7WTvAd/s1600/DSC_7886.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFjzGryzbjJps03SBX2TkAiey7k62yUieQwV4-X3WOTLxOii3ehz7k-v3RsLpfcVvI_XHn2Ue8dN93EPjS48naM_dj0CFdICVD3qnn_tj7-aQ6FrbpDTt3oQSMqaUJnpoHsq7fKk7WTvAd/s1600/DSC_7886.JPG" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bamboo boss lady, left, along with our guide</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyl3IbLYC25a2gFUu0WN69jHhIHT5Altdnaiw28GwAzZNZUx_GQ10V8mcz1QhnWZZ2C5H92TZuYZV4LIWsz5bmnCb58FnqJhB2676g8ijMssSt3SsMA90ofAtFCjgQvhtFZmo-NUecaMak/s1600/DSC_7893.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyl3IbLYC25a2gFUu0WN69jHhIHT5Altdnaiw28GwAzZNZUx_GQ10V8mcz1QhnWZZ2C5H92TZuYZV4LIWsz5bmnCb58FnqJhB2676g8ijMssSt3SsMA90ofAtFCjgQvhtFZmo-NUecaMak/s1600/DSC_7893.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading back to the jetty... again, note the general lack of litter anywhere</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWonC4QLtVD89NhvlVYfqFacyDEnol3bVJG62xH6ezmh7idDYRufVpi_ac-AqEeX4V9Km8Fh7CucHAvrDDw7RUbOjVSpv_zecnwnEo_qd9t7x_3eXwc5ZClYeSUh2EuSKXmQRF055qqcYP/s1600/DSC_7904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWonC4QLtVD89NhvlVYfqFacyDEnol3bVJG62xH6ezmh7idDYRufVpi_ac-AqEeX4V9Km8Fh7CucHAvrDDw7RUbOjVSpv_zecnwnEo_qd9t7x_3eXwc5ZClYeSUh2EuSKXmQRF055qqcYP/s1600/DSC_7904.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riverside laundry, with the <i>Road to Mandalay</i><br />
waiting patiently in the background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Once back on board the ship, I got cleaned up and had an informal tour of the various cabins and rooms courtesy of the ship's director of operations, Kyu Kyu (pronounced "Choo Choo" – <i>ky</i> in Burmese transliteration is pronounced as "ch"), a 19-year veteran with the company. Even the small cabins were quite nice, but seeing them certainly gave me a swell of appreciation for being in the larger State Cabin. We also saw the premier Governor's Suite. There is only one of these rooms, and it's impressive indeed. Most of the difference was down to a separate living room area, a second TV, and two sinks at the bathroom vanity. Otherwise, it was much the same as my cabin. Oh, the Governor's Suite also had its own dedicated Wi-Fi router. For the rest of us, the satellite-based Wi-Fi service was generally limited to the forward half of the ship on the main deck, so when we were itching to check our emails or chat a bit with friends back home via WhatsApp, we'd go sit in the observation lounge or in the piano bar for a few minutes and get our smartphone fix. It was nice to have Wi-Fi onboard, but it was equally nice that it was confined to only certain areas, as it kept everyone from being tethered to their devices all the time. Also on the tour, I got to see the spa rooms – really just small cabins which had been converted for massages and manicures – the gym (which I used a couple of times, too). Most of the other areas were quite public, and I had seen all those already!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsK04VT86EUGMu5BfRj67BJEo_OpmOvuav03t8wVjJD6S2yS6GAyWgNbcdAlPUziflHosxG02pNmbruGo7bcJb44mfHZdBSPu-ZgjAU9pU1Lu43y802nrwxFplyKYV6Q3ldzSj2HVtbTFG/s1600/DSC_7930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsK04VT86EUGMu5BfRj67BJEo_OpmOvuav03t8wVjJD6S2yS6GAyWgNbcdAlPUziflHosxG02pNmbruGo7bcJb44mfHZdBSPu-ZgjAU9pU1Lu43y802nrwxFplyKYV6Q3ldzSj2HVtbTFG/s1600/DSC_7930.JPG" width="325" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the several "spa rooms" – this one obviously<br />
used for massage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiETs2hXNMh00ghCUbIkqE-hWQ4CvIOM532szFAXrpG-aPKibLvMWAQWFnwKV0JYFakN23eaW7r-Chy52yCVVGvaBhbPq5y0RWgvSJlfEKBOYZSECM_Xih6T_mS3bazxLtYFRLaeqzgCsF9/s1600/DSC_7815.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiETs2hXNMh00ghCUbIkqE-hWQ4CvIOM532szFAXrpG-aPKibLvMWAQWFnwKV0JYFakN23eaW7r-Chy52yCVVGvaBhbPq5y0RWgvSJlfEKBOYZSECM_Xih6T_mS3bazxLtYFRLaeqzgCsF9/s1600/DSC_7815.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The small but very well-fitted gym, which I even used twice!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAPGlr9PLk5cc6PGHLBntWkUngTG8x8HFre58x5VwVXhq02pvJf56I6EvGgauCL6ifoXA4mAnMvnY2Opd5m1CKE1sTi2eLoFQlxoPjPvwyLMr_0UBmV9-h1ydqpteRQZTLPfIttDbdpkRU/s1600/DSC_7950.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAPGlr9PLk5cc6PGHLBntWkUngTG8x8HFre58x5VwVXhq02pvJf56I6EvGgauCL6ifoXA4mAnMvnY2Opd5m1CKE1sTi2eLoFQlxoPjPvwyLMr_0UBmV9-h1ydqpteRQZTLPfIttDbdpkRU/s1600/DSC_7950.JPG" width="270" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the living room area of the lone<br />
Governor's Suite cabin on the ship</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAfwyMpLmrVCEzj7UDZ1Jurt3lxvivtWTVGh5keDv3DWpcyjganOXnYGAbLYr4Dmfi2urr3FH51YQ3gVy3IeX2Gbk9nz08Jy-i9o5hvLb8qmyTt42XwzBNh9dojtw3j42Es1FTJPDT-_0D/s1600/DSC_7968.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAfwyMpLmrVCEzj7UDZ1Jurt3lxvivtWTVGh5keDv3DWpcyjganOXnYGAbLYr4Dmfi2urr3FH51YQ3gVy3IeX2Gbk9nz08Jy-i9o5hvLb8qmyTt42XwzBNh9dojtw3j42Es1FTJPDT-_0D/s1600/DSC_7968.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the piano bar on the main deck... nice place for afternoon tea or, even<br />
better, evening cocktails (that's the when the pianist was doing his thing)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_pSMINw_hJUurk7dWeOIAgNHG2Lv1L1Liti7MLSr4unk3D5Ld9Qz54w0pTa19s0hD4BYsKu7zH2uGYEcLdeySL9pceML15iT_ZUPUjTH3zpr8YJNbS5_TZtRXYWvVAhovBv1jV7vQ0DT7/s1600/DSC_7970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_pSMINw_hJUurk7dWeOIAgNHG2Lv1L1Liti7MLSr4unk3D5Ld9Qz54w0pTa19s0hD4BYsKu7zH2uGYEcLdeySL9pceML15iT_ZUPUjTH3zpr8YJNbS5_TZtRXYWvVAhovBv1jV7vQ0DT7/s1600/DSC_7970.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topside on the observation deck with a<br />
bar and lounge, a small swimming pool,<br />
and a large covered sitting area (behind me)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqj_wlXs1oRcUDoEq08MFsRwcLgS1xqAO7b6H3lpa_LiW1HCfHhQj7vFKdCX5sXOFQU4i40XNFgQ3HcKdfT7lC2zRS96AtdYAt9hzAvrBmyDtVAiCZS4PfXvWFrM0TCOIJkYIVESnQ5kmV/s1600/DSC00810.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqj_wlXs1oRcUDoEq08MFsRwcLgS1xqAO7b6H3lpa_LiW1HCfHhQj7vFKdCX5sXOFQU4i40XNFgQ3HcKdfT7lC2zRS96AtdYAt9hzAvrBmyDtVAiCZS4PfXvWFrM0TCOIJkYIVESnQ5kmV/s1600/DSC00810.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the second night of the cruise, there was a sunset cocktail hour on the<br />
observation deck, which was followed by the nighttime launch of<br />
hundreds of lanterns onto the dark river... quite a nice moment</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I got to meet some really interesting people, and since there were only about 35 passengers on our cruise, we all saw each other quite regularly and there was a really nice, convivial atmosphere – I suppose you're not often going to find too many miserable people on a cruise. Later that day, I spent a little time up on the top deck enjoying the sun and having drinks at the bar while talking with some of the other passengers, one who looked almost alarmingly like my mother (I had a couple of momentary starts when glancing at her) – exactly the same age, too.<br />
<br />
It was a leisurely cruise, the ship rarely maintaining a straight-ahead course, but rather zig-zagging back and forth across the Irrawaddy's considerable breadth, seemingly indiscriminately, but in reality doing so at the guidance of a spotter ahead, who was taking depth measurements downriver with a long pole. Avoiding sandbars is a crucial component of skillfully piloting these big ships down a river whose course and depth changes seasonally, and the captain and crew of our ship did a fantastic job.<br />
<br />
And all the while, those endearing river life scenes would play out briefly as we sailed by. Of course, the Belmond <i>Road to Mandalay</i> enjoys a bit of a reputation along the Irrawaddy, so the locals know it well. They'd often stop what they were doing to watch the big cruiser drift by, waving and smiling at the strangers from distant lands, each party curious about the other. Of course, it's not lost on the Burmese that it's a luxury cruise ship plying their river's waters. I was chatted up by an opportunistic boy at one stop who had cooked up a story about his house-bound mother needing shampoo, and could I please please please bring some from my cabin when we came back that evening. This went on for some time and I never agreed to it or committed to anything, but expressed mounting incredulity that I could be getting a real shake-down for shampoo, of all things. Later, it all made sense as the guide explained that the local kids were well aware of just what was stocked in the passenger cabins on the <i>Road to Mandalay</i>. High-end Bulgari shampoo from a well-known cruise ship in the area can easily be sold for a tidy sum, so the boys have come up with a clever little scam to get sympathetic tourists to part with their cabin's toiletries. Can't really fault them, of course... such things are born of genuine need, and you have to tip your hat to their resourcefulness and inventiveness.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRkCfu2K65t6_2JIvlCh3OguQ4VM5qpiA89ItWdyfQTA46oOZ9FQtmudyR1AtfpYG2z2KqLLK-0MUt-xyUShkzcWNDLVafwm9e5NmLSSp9pQKYtjg0EIc0XKOg0aM5eMI0hcak1CX-hF0N/s1600/DSC_7984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRkCfu2K65t6_2JIvlCh3OguQ4VM5qpiA89ItWdyfQTA46oOZ9FQtmudyR1AtfpYG2z2KqLLK-0MUt-xyUShkzcWNDLVafwm9e5NmLSSp9pQKYtjg0EIc0XKOg0aM5eMI0hcak1CX-hF0N/s1600/DSC_7984.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Built in 1964, the <i>Road to Mandalay</i> spent its earlier years as a<br />
Rhine cruiser in Germany, not making its way to Southeast Asia<br />
until almost 35 years later, where it was extensively refurbished</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPjcu3dhasonKVG0WzPLzo1-elGO1CjmGdyzxMJsNgTFoyJxM6jo1j6b3pMSR5ArZleDmvnD5JX3cOsAd8Jgc7ZPOa7HqKFJsQ0TeAi6h8mMB5ASI2yDIr2jK-v5s2GNzEcRRxPrJzlrDF/s1600/DSC_8002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPjcu3dhasonKVG0WzPLzo1-elGO1CjmGdyzxMJsNgTFoyJxM6jo1j6b3pMSR5ArZleDmvnD5JX3cOsAd8Jgc7ZPOa7HqKFJsQ0TeAi6h8mMB5ASI2yDIr2jK-v5s2GNzEcRRxPrJzlrDF/s1600/DSC_8002.JPG" width="277" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The stairs leading up to the observation deck;<br />
to me, this photo illustrates the quality of the<br />
fit and finish onboard the ship</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinGnt57LkB9Um-Q3xe4hYbx7TDVP3tX2e61dNujloHw4QmvFGD2M7FdjjYdApJaL6aA1-MLnC4_K-Cur_FV_p9bnpJFHMBE4cCYMO2Q0Dp2ZPLJ5yvWqHJdkk_scuXpc5gxwt9tqKs5OQF/s1600/DSC_7975.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinGnt57LkB9Um-Q3xe4hYbx7TDVP3tX2e61dNujloHw4QmvFGD2M7FdjjYdApJaL6aA1-MLnC4_K-Cur_FV_p9bnpJFHMBE4cCYMO2Q0Dp2ZPLJ5yvWqHJdkk_scuXpc5gxwt9tqKs5OQF/s1600/DSC_7975.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A modest riverbank family dwelling with its residents watching us<br />
pass by... note the boys' brightly dyed hair, a common thing in Myanmar<br />
ahead of their new year festivities in mid-April</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxveaGLbfwYrVuZE30h6icDkcgyvDanrX83_gaq6wxWSsin63MNx_ivqzs3DGMjy_06Rlag_nyAuGTteztdlrdzdt_4g_4xydLfYmGJriW4_ckbAXc8qBtEKWC7f-x-GlYNfQuW04h7vPQ/s1600/DSC_8097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxveaGLbfwYrVuZE30h6icDkcgyvDanrX83_gaq6wxWSsin63MNx_ivqzs3DGMjy_06Rlag_nyAuGTteztdlrdzdt_4g_4xydLfYmGJriW4_ckbAXc8qBtEKWC7f-x-GlYNfQuW04h7vPQ/s1600/DSC_8097.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm not sure if this is a "permanent" home or just a fishing hut (it was<br />
on a sandbar island), but I rather hope it was the latter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEbGABKHlPE_YX3CMI7rOMdTsrbD3f_4O1x87kPZ3BjJ_vX6LlYK78iprDJx274dwuNtSzHH1xxy9SLLsh-kMfzTnTET4jhgLw-lckMPmfLgF3xQAvVKDu1Jzqa8GxZxKjYjxCAeEnoujj/s1600/DSC_8005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEbGABKHlPE_YX3CMI7rOMdTsrbD3f_4O1x87kPZ3BjJ_vX6LlYK78iprDJx274dwuNtSzHH1xxy9SLLsh-kMfzTnTET4jhgLw-lckMPmfLgF3xQAvVKDu1Jzqa8GxZxKjYjxCAeEnoujj/s1600/DSC_8005.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A small group of tourists being returned to our cruise ship; we came<br />
behind, with only four of us, plus our guides</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrJuVPUc7cfrTOBYVm7q76JPd6Pc7VLoUx6wG5qrCZ6D0RVaeM638udZW2POcXcjTWjRu-A2hDWjc_7LOvtdlTybVnQ2WckBZY7kDvpLqlGpy7hTDZ8-ULm5pOzMg2nUQ8Za5G6UklnlKX/s1600/DSC_8012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrJuVPUc7cfrTOBYVm7q76JPd6Pc7VLoUx6wG5qrCZ6D0RVaeM638udZW2POcXcjTWjRu-A2hDWjc_7LOvtdlTybVnQ2WckBZY7kDvpLqlGpy7hTDZ8-ULm5pOzMg2nUQ8Za5G6UklnlKX/s1600/DSC_8012.JPG" width="271" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Longtail boats moored in the river</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVXtWBiY9kQ7jwksTHv_1VWaixEKPwQ9UJ7AEwpwGJnwchahpjGdcZWbAXlY0x-BLGV3rF8N5hUA4b18zMlro9iRj5VEoSo0mUhv58Z4TVI2PW2TsyN3oAxcVeobLqxNhhQT2OapN2LSE1/s1600/DSC_7999.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVXtWBiY9kQ7jwksTHv_1VWaixEKPwQ9UJ7AEwpwGJnwchahpjGdcZWbAXlY0x-BLGV3rF8N5hUA4b18zMlro9iRj5VEoSo0mUhv58Z4TVI2PW2TsyN3oAxcVeobLqxNhhQT2OapN2LSE1/s1600/DSC_7999.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This snapshot captured a lot of local river life, with people, their<br />
homes, boats, and an ancient pagoda standing as a sentinel over the<br />
small cluster of dwellings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh1dHGYy9i7ZeDVulbJq5EUdZraFshfxlN6g7ni6FTQQh5tvRU_5EHH-5a3SNGAs8ks044vuLuCe3pZMdE15Fv_tN2jj064fC-CpCj6ZNx1pDCc7etJWa-xwg_Sj8K-d7jMZ9MzQqgS7nm/s1600/DSC_8102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh1dHGYy9i7ZeDVulbJq5EUdZraFshfxlN6g7ni6FTQQh5tvRU_5EHH-5a3SNGAs8ks044vuLuCe3pZMdE15Fv_tN2jj064fC-CpCj6ZNx1pDCc7etJWa-xwg_Sj8K-d7jMZ9MzQqgS7nm/s1600/DSC_8102.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm not sure whether this dwelling – little more than a lean-to – is<br />
charming in its simplicity or just a sad commentary on how truly little<br />
so many people in the world really have, but I tend to favor the latter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Time went by quickly – always seems to when you're enjoying yourself – and before long, we had reached Bagan, where we spent a full day and night exploring. We took two separate shore excursions there, one in the morning, another in the afternoon and early evening. This is the Myanmar of postcards, the sprawling plains of Bagan littered with thousands of pagodas, temples, and monasteries, some in much the same condition they must have been during their glory days, others in decay and ruin. I'll let the photos do most of the talking here, but will add that to get most of the shots, I had to climb four flights of steps up the side of Shwesandaw Pagoda that were incredibly steep... but the view was worth it. The impressive and imposing pagodas called <i>Ananda</i>, <i>Htilominlo</i>, and <i>Thatbyinnyu </i>really stood out, mostly because of their sheer size, but no less because of their stunning designs.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlirZJCqA56vHoB8pj49dL0dvSVRebhafzurS1BNS_eFPyNLdVbWYI5RtJNyUGRANNdtds6l4AbwKAPsMnBd0NRow71vAR3kV0r3ePJj17BHf2IWyW0o384Mp2nLHHssuilEQhdheNzOaQ/s1600/DSC_8016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlirZJCqA56vHoB8pj49dL0dvSVRebhafzurS1BNS_eFPyNLdVbWYI5RtJNyUGRANNdtds6l4AbwKAPsMnBd0NRow71vAR3kV0r3ePJj17BHf2IWyW0o384Mp2nLHHssuilEQhdheNzOaQ/s1600/DSC_8016.JPG" width="293" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm not sure what this temple was, but it was different<br />
than most of the Buddhist stupa-style temples we saw;<br />
with its multi-tiered spires, it resembles the basic<br />
design of Hindu-inspired temples on Bali</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlEMp-Fsa68-s_fDRXF2mZ1N23XErGxpxVLiiLoev8dE0ryKwtjC3vHGS5phBQXA97TnO_TCkSUVpikLfFyGbYPWpGE1FajjIxqKhLTIVwhdw7GtpHKbM7XYGdlJkPsf5eG9VtMCk3wwAv/s1600/Shwesandaw_Pagoda.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlEMp-Fsa68-s_fDRXF2mZ1N23XErGxpxVLiiLoev8dE0ryKwtjC3vHGS5phBQXA97TnO_TCkSUVpikLfFyGbYPWpGE1FajjIxqKhLTIVwhdw7GtpHKbM7XYGdlJkPsf5eG9VtMCk3wwAv/s1600/Shwesandaw_Pagoda.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With a series of steep steps on each of its<br />
four sides, Shwesandaw Pagoda is the place<br />
to go for a sweeping view of the Bagan landscape<br />
(photo courtesy of Jason Eppink)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYbgRKNpfOkyfPQLsoJ2Saya3HW5nRqphCga7JSqESmu7awu74i9qrF7A81tPLyemJejnOGmjP5u8XqNxXi5e71laQH4lSB3ng7KKQvCmJzKUv-D_jZSg0SfUpktO4ozv7SR0SwGhRCNW6/s1600/DSC_8017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYbgRKNpfOkyfPQLsoJ2Saya3HW5nRqphCga7JSqESmu7awu74i9qrF7A81tPLyemJejnOGmjP5u8XqNxXi5e71laQH4lSB3ng7KKQvCmJzKUv-D_jZSg0SfUpktO4ozv7SR0SwGhRCNW6/s1600/DSC_8017.JPG" width="271" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About to haul myself up the steep steps<br />
of the Shwesandaw Pagoda</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKj2zPfZsHVr_3sW11-3-DAVjiF8zFoAU54lSK_FOBgZOBB59sa4dsT9ISaVaytAgZ7fbuWw0GVN_tr2aT7a7uyF3BybKxAmCOFLhrOILxq99r_gSlU3lrk1BD1lWS30RuGOVqc47xetr0/s1600/DSC_8018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKj2zPfZsHVr_3sW11-3-DAVjiF8zFoAU54lSK_FOBgZOBB59sa4dsT9ISaVaytAgZ7fbuWw0GVN_tr2aT7a7uyF3BybKxAmCOFLhrOILxq99r_gSlU3lrk1BD1lWS30RuGOVqc47xetr0/s1600/DSC_8018.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the many pagodas on the Bagan plains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgOddox1w9Lyq2QHn2p8kJZk3ZuTGjT3Jm5Rx7ke9Dk7yfZ3ff4VfHwL6KunLRON1yKPVhrzYdX8jcqCzs01xk6072mV-E_BM-xU6GWQDaduCbm1T8jjGQnptWpO_6e98zoamltCqDCjI5/s1600/DSC_8019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgOddox1w9Lyq2QHn2p8kJZk3ZuTGjT3Jm5Rx7ke9Dk7yfZ3ff4VfHwL6KunLRON1yKPVhrzYdX8jcqCzs01xk6072mV-E_BM-xU6GWQDaduCbm1T8jjGQnptWpO_6e98zoamltCqDCjI5/s1600/DSC_8019.JPG" width="282" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Thatbyinnyu</i> temple, built in 1144</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiulI9NNkNxRvypKplApA6ohDzrajaxVaFP4IcYLmqfgmtmleEa6vIQMEk2SFFSjozJrJRr4YErnrXwwUi1v9CkKFCYtYyuI4Rf8SCa5z0HKaD0uSdChSUZ4oIZG5Md31AMZ6cZkgsPqyXX/s1600/DSC_8020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiulI9NNkNxRvypKplApA6ohDzrajaxVaFP4IcYLmqfgmtmleEa6vIQMEk2SFFSjozJrJRr4YErnrXwwUi1v9CkKFCYtYyuI4Rf8SCa5z0HKaD0uSdChSUZ4oIZG5Md31AMZ6cZkgsPqyXX/s1600/DSC_8020.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's pagodapalooza! Everywhere you gaze, pagodas aplenty</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7vrz0EhJ6UgzaIvycTvNtO-ghGj7wvrEY5xrAubQgEVBwKVEYxbv1EWv14-9XfgVXDb22EnxmPpXtQG_8e0uocWa9wfDoOiLPz8FIAbszly70AGzLwms4huzntKOTEhMSTAHHXbF1pqwb/s1600/DSC_8021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7vrz0EhJ6UgzaIvycTvNtO-ghGj7wvrEY5xrAubQgEVBwKVEYxbv1EWv14-9XfgVXDb22EnxmPpXtQG_8e0uocWa9wfDoOiLPz8FIAbszly70AGzLwms4huzntKOTEhMSTAHHXbF1pqwb/s1600/DSC_8021.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More pagodas... I tried to find the name of the one in the middle,<br />
but gave up after five minutes of looking at tiny little pictures online</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMKsyMD2N-95cdvUBiTsMAVbiSKrO5iHMrW43Dy1K5eoGjF29uxSsze8gy3xHrv3SZKDfimXTwaWALx39Z04u9cMLrPhHys1k4XxerTeUN7Y06uRvbPMivfL9nTgF_ulUiuoNpiys0Lyg/s1600/DSC_8028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMKsyMD2N-95cdvUBiTsMAVbiSKrO5iHMrW43Dy1K5eoGjF29uxSsze8gy3xHrv3SZKDfimXTwaWALx39Z04u9cMLrPhHys1k4XxerTeUN7Y06uRvbPMivfL9nTgF_ulUiuoNpiys0Lyg/s1600/DSC_8028.JPG" width="273" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lovely <i>Ananda </i>temple, built in 1091</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFbSXKmwokhhptYw_VeXAoxzKEL-3KBzNeRNeH3lfXO1H_zIX95_WiW7Do56MDpp_MlGG7Bj7niYtxaZKRQcHN8LJWjhyphenhyphenUOFy1civEP4hygg1QY2hUrchVGOxN85XyI1rWx4ocWkg_1Mgc/s1600/DSC_8031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFbSXKmwokhhptYw_VeXAoxzKEL-3KBzNeRNeH3lfXO1H_zIX95_WiW7Do56MDpp_MlGG7Bj7niYtxaZKRQcHN8LJWjhyphenhyphenUOFy1civEP4hygg1QY2hUrchVGOxN85XyI1rWx4ocWkg_1Mgc/s1600/DSC_8031.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The grand<i> </i><i style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Thatbyinnyu</i> temple once again</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsy91SWpsKn898vOW01QtiBN7xszjDsSnmQLpBCkrZr0irnZG3zbbqPQovntin6ebSb-q9uqXxzyoj43fAqP9MiXw9ldBtFnPSAfWo22p-0Qyx7JaXJqVgbvQoMVSTrsmL9yPiisE-w2_6/s1600/DSC_8026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsy91SWpsKn898vOW01QtiBN7xszjDsSnmQLpBCkrZr0irnZG3zbbqPQovntin6ebSb-q9uqXxzyoj43fAqP9MiXw9ldBtFnPSAfWo22p-0Qyx7JaXJqVgbvQoMVSTrsmL9yPiisE-w2_6/s1600/DSC_8026.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Most of these pagodas were built during the 11th and 12th centuries</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1I_MBvCEAkbLDzdPea4tYMlHBShX2ZAJ8yLPo5nskGcbEhq2NavFIPy3YTy1FLvXA6-ED8JpJlqel-HyZC1MbOISzGURvJob0wN3RLeEhCE29uIYT_ekQ94ZBjXZHmqUS-jscWstwf_2n/s1600/DSC_8022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1I_MBvCEAkbLDzdPea4tYMlHBShX2ZAJ8yLPo5nskGcbEhq2NavFIPy3YTy1FLvXA6-ED8JpJlqel-HyZC1MbOISzGURvJob0wN3RLeEhCE29uIYT_ekQ94ZBjXZHmqUS-jscWstwf_2n/s1600/DSC_8022.JPG" width="268" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading back down!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsazox5uciAE_S6JOG84eHGHSzPUv-pY4kHDfCFHJm2lIo7nZI9AhXvFL-ZEcKwquzJIx8LFoCj1XajxlbyS78cT0qdUcn7qyJsudPi81ia_KuRzSehj9K2Wm9XIM63Ymaf5sY-H7JQcE2/s1600/DSC_8037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsazox5uciAE_S6JOG84eHGHSzPUv-pY4kHDfCFHJm2lIo7nZI9AhXvFL-ZEcKwquzJIx8LFoCj1XajxlbyS78cT0qdUcn7qyJsudPi81ia_KuRzSehj9K2Wm9XIM63Ymaf5sY-H7JQcE2/s1600/DSC_8037.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Thatbyinnyu</i>, up close</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVL1ntjC0vMZLGtamEOi2ljZyZoo6HddA2ugAQ1LisMYQZHEQ9kM749uJkOO4BOMFEyl6wHmdF5nkVk7FSx_G-ikfUNkwZNgjKpYOM54cFKF1ET7DqRpPRPnsr2d-IyoBgM23NhZpCBosU/s1600/DSC_8034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVL1ntjC0vMZLGtamEOi2ljZyZoo6HddA2ugAQ1LisMYQZHEQ9kM749uJkOO4BOMFEyl6wHmdF5nkVk7FSx_G-ikfUNkwZNgjKpYOM54cFKF1ET7DqRpPRPnsr2d-IyoBgM23NhZpCBosU/s1600/DSC_8034.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Though the hoopoe is a common bird throughout Asia (and is also in fact<br />
the national bird of Israel), this was the first one I ever saw!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi99w7YVzsY213wfPq3EC6uVcuKw40j9h7DPvuYCqRzPlaf4CQnXnU4jC41ygqmtnDgUAU4ggIisIs4cf6OXAg2WUUyPIISNVCd413en9hyphenhyphen92AAeKRk5Y1ghrvqykTF_5hS47FOFNN5dkdL/s1600/DSC_8041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi99w7YVzsY213wfPq3EC6uVcuKw40j9h7DPvuYCqRzPlaf4CQnXnU4jC41ygqmtnDgUAU4ggIisIs4cf6OXAg2WUUyPIISNVCd413en9hyphenhyphen92AAeKRk5Y1ghrvqykTF_5hS47FOFNN5dkdL/s1600/DSC_8041.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exploring the pagodas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbHSg2FSB7uNwasMEcWjp6nbW5O8qCouOi9wSO0Xi3ZJIRvJ2efZ-V4tfGzfii3VqxW2KqCca-ORHQAdhyzY49cgD4zeMI0OxKkkNCy5g1rDRB6ZLK8_xNcumdSqef6zAPHVqLHOV4xwXG/s1600/DSC_8043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbHSg2FSB7uNwasMEcWjp6nbW5O8qCouOi9wSO0Xi3ZJIRvJ2efZ-V4tfGzfii3VqxW2KqCca-ORHQAdhyzY49cgD4zeMI0OxKkkNCy5g1rDRB6ZLK8_xNcumdSqef6zAPHVqLHOV4xwXG/s1600/DSC_8043.JPG" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The detail of the bricks of a pagoda built<br />
nearly a thousand years ago... amazing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEB4TtDdur9wPN4Aw1gAH3AZy4Bw48iof4xTBGJzhfnHEKEKWjj0AzR9G2SBiROf_xIuRpfpSAcaoY8stsJ0AMHCZYQ5__F1bE3Grub1wkSzsRrcbRx0YNw-zJSldieGJxWPT6BamH1oaH/s1600/DSC_8059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEB4TtDdur9wPN4Aw1gAH3AZy4Bw48iof4xTBGJzhfnHEKEKWjj0AzR9G2SBiROf_xIuRpfpSAcaoY8stsJ0AMHCZYQ5__F1bE3Grub1wkSzsRrcbRx0YNw-zJSldieGJxWPT6BamH1oaH/s1600/DSC_8059.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This area's pagodas were built in the 12th century</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBn6nvq0f_iILzIvRUmjEDEJs6m7LiIZ7TBapN_6bVf_ZeXqQTv0pzXcXjaltczSerHz4btxwYOLHRvKRvZ4YomhISdtlyD0xkHYCPfAYjvGnb4-q4NRPhQAa0Rh25-g5ELPDlGE8uFK0Y/s1600/DSC_8052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBn6nvq0f_iILzIvRUmjEDEJs6m7LiIZ7TBapN_6bVf_ZeXqQTv0pzXcXjaltczSerHz4btxwYOLHRvKRvZ4YomhISdtlyD0xkHYCPfAYjvGnb4-q4NRPhQAa0Rh25-g5ELPDlGE8uFK0Y/s1600/DSC_8052.JPG" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's a pagoda in my pagoda!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvaCF5bK8JNyEr3a4m8s-Ki__ZuZD0M_y3PYzBGpxhPxRM4SMRzT7LLyCdaK09F4-CTlWMW0TyJYIhZOJ0JdhA8Bkx_goqXE6wxTOETMfGs7-p0DVumvWGtGHZztyJNe8WmPFsFNfM2C8Z/s1600/DSC_8060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvaCF5bK8JNyEr3a4m8s-Ki__ZuZD0M_y3PYzBGpxhPxRM4SMRzT7LLyCdaK09F4-CTlWMW0TyJYIhZOJ0JdhA8Bkx_goqXE6wxTOETMfGs7-p0DVumvWGtGHZztyJNe8WmPFsFNfM2C8Z/s1600/DSC_8060.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This group of pagodas had placards dating them<br />
between 1113 and 1125</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
In between the pagoda visits, we also went to a lacquerware, or <i>yun-de</i>, factory. There are doubtlessly low-quality versions of this stuff churned out of factories in far-flung places, but what we saw was all made meticulously by hand, and the craftsmanship was astounding. (The art is called <i>Pan yun</i> in Burmese.) Ribbons of thin bamboo reeds, which have been softened for malleability, are carefully woven or otherwise formed (using molds) into the desired shape, a process that even if it ended here, would still be rather impressive. After that, the lacquering begins. The resin from the <i>Thit-si</i> tree (<i>Melanorrhoea usitatais</i>, also called the varnish tree) mixed with ash to form the lacquer, called <i>thayo</i>. This shiny resin has strong adhesive qualities, and soon renders the bamboo it coats impermeable. The number of layers of lacquer applied contribute to the finished product's quality, and most pieces receive a minimum of seven layers, all applied and smoothed by hand. After a layer of lacquer is applied, the piece must be allowed to dry in a suitable environment, usually underground to ensure sufficient humidity and a fairly constant temperature. Each layer takes one week to dry and cure, so even creating the most basic piece of lacquerware will take at least two months from start to finish, usually closer to three months. Larger, more elaborate pieces can take considerably longer.<br />
<br />
After each layer dries, it is then washed and polished, once again all by hand. The polishing is carried out with a fine mixture of ground ox bone to ensure no fingerprints are left in the lacquer. Colored lacquer is created by mixing various powders into the <i>thayo</i>. Once the final layer is applied and dried, a final polishing is carried out by hand using an ash made from ground petrified teak wood. Then, the pieces are engraved and decorated.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBw1ZECvc_-uYOZS1QtiqvSNOKR2pkDqP5wOtNVlSj-QyuRamGdj9sRib3mbk1A1odtKBAkQHAfPU6_E24RlLMkEjDYi9Ea58yMF0w2xjBIYGoOZmPchSbuU2762kbjJlgRYnbooHppNpv/s1600/DSC_8079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBw1ZECvc_-uYOZS1QtiqvSNOKR2pkDqP5wOtNVlSj-QyuRamGdj9sRib3mbk1A1odtKBAkQHAfPU6_E24RlLMkEjDYi9Ea58yMF0w2xjBIYGoOZmPchSbuU2762kbjJlgRYnbooHppNpv/s1600/DSC_8079.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using a reciprocating motion with her right arm, the worker rotates the<br />
spindle fairly rapidly, while using her right hand to smooth and<br />
polish the piece using teak ash</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIfrBNZTqRWQvWrUywgFIhli-hwOA50MoDj8sipk4sxM4ZIsYlZ3Zd8kvxoqp0JJM51w-A9rJf0LZoO9OtKVb0GsEXq_Zyqq4Zy0YcfvhaouDxXy7AbtOuZMENZxusDbSs9gX7wtUcYaLa/s1600/DSC_8084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIfrBNZTqRWQvWrUywgFIhli-hwOA50MoDj8sipk4sxM4ZIsYlZ3Zd8kvxoqp0JJM51w-A9rJf0LZoO9OtKVb0GsEXq_Zyqq4Zy0YcfvhaouDxXy7AbtOuZMENZxusDbSs9gX7wtUcYaLa/s1600/DSC_8084.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Intricate engraving reveals the black lacquer under the final colored layer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqwXOnK-xMnfm5oK3q_6HqACly2yhUWVNCkQVqeplE31hZUJ1AvMNWRIBM4ZhsGec95jFtkgg8gVvm77J9NSUYIrjBDiDitA_NhDz8wxsE7QtZ6JnB9_RyLOSfapSyZeSMdLUR7EKjaocE/s1600/DSC_8088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqwXOnK-xMnfm5oK3q_6HqACly2yhUWVNCkQVqeplE31hZUJ1AvMNWRIBM4ZhsGec95jFtkgg8gVvm77J9NSUYIrjBDiDitA_NhDz8wxsE7QtZ6JnB9_RyLOSfapSyZeSMdLUR7EKjaocE/s1600/DSC_8088.JPG" width="273" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The focus these workers exhibited was incredible,<br />
even with a small throng of fascinated<br />
visitors pressing in for a closer look</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIzr936IwuLfPENo4QnacHDbSDQmn3DwOXMgMwZ9Uga3dmaMbxwjHzW_4BOo3Z8aGh4a9ce1P1d-XQ1onQfgtpbaOQU2dDrEwWFHRIwvNuaIemaZudGajsFcIMt_zLCjzneDTivklxXu1J/s1600/DSC_8087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIzr936IwuLfPENo4QnacHDbSDQmn3DwOXMgMwZ9Uga3dmaMbxwjHzW_4BOo3Z8aGh4a9ce1P1d-XQ1onQfgtpbaOQU2dDrEwWFHRIwvNuaIemaZudGajsFcIMt_zLCjzneDTivklxXu1J/s1600/DSC_8087.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using the stylet and guiding it with his thumb, the worker engraves<br />
freehand patterns in the lacquerware</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
All the engraving is done by hand, free-form, usually from memory, using nothing but a sharpened stylet (looks a bit like an X-acto knife) and brush. This is meticulous, painstaking, and time-consuming work, and the craftsmanship (as well as the patience and steadiness of hands) was truly incredible to watch. Interestingly, an American far more famous than me also visited this particular lacquerware factory last year... see the photos. In the end, I bought a piece off the "seconds" shelf. I couldn't find any problems with it; some of the seconds had obvious flaws. This one, I don't know... looked quite okay to me, and was only US$14, a pittance considering the four months of work that likely went into making it. Along with a necklace of jade stones that was given to me by the crew of the <i>Road to Mandalay</i> as a memento of the cruise, the beautiful lacquerware bowl was my only real souvenir of my trip to Myanmar. Well, that, a bottle of wine, and some 850 photos I snapped, more than a handful of which are shared here!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrjsrzhC-3T5Yfx7X2umIn1-tJUJrYU_SdzEDqk06mO1hvQiqei4_Yz4hbhcbys3fyQLXOyuLlTealPQorMFaVt4BBubRpcZMze8hr9kiTxInTPhXhXiurMZJjkkm9GiFv0S1eQPwQRY7/s1600/DSC_8089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrjsrzhC-3T5Yfx7X2umIn1-tJUJrYU_SdzEDqk06mO1hvQiqei4_Yz4hbhcbys3fyQLXOyuLlTealPQorMFaVt4BBubRpcZMze8hr9kiTxInTPhXhXiurMZJjkkm9GiFv0S1eQPwQRY7/s1600/DSC_8089.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">President Obama apparently got himself<br />
some Burmese lacquerware when he visited<br />
Myanmar in 2014</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtKsUF2zuV7gOoCJpX4Vl_6IsK1HwLcfSWzc9TEbfRQpl68yV-sEs4EGrNtAfLehDDn-_v_2Bp_AQcx-uToKje2RvCA8s3Hr4bpB7hjexOJsKOURrbm0FPRQNKQyO8AyftAkeYHAEOcYL_/s1600/DSC_8090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtKsUF2zuV7gOoCJpX4Vl_6IsK1HwLcfSWzc9TEbfRQpl68yV-sEs4EGrNtAfLehDDn-_v_2Bp_AQcx-uToKje2RvCA8s3Hr4bpB7hjexOJsKOURrbm0FPRQNKQyO8AyftAkeYHAEOcYL_/s1600/DSC_8090.JPG" width="276" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I got the shop's proprietor to pose with the photo<br />
of him and President Obama; this gentleman is<br />
well-known for his mustache, so much so that the<br />
lacquerware shop's slogan is "Look for the mustache!"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxKublT_YSC38knbP4eYBCO7l3w3xKSJ2A4hOGVNVuNs5IQIFy8CIxX9SXlNQutz0MSHxsGZz9_KR1zn1qmLodxCN2Ct8WX2LyXxQZI1mnd9g2rZk_lXxGkAOLZGyLn3OhyphenhyphenCRnrHYd05vZ/s1600/DSC_8325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxKublT_YSC38knbP4eYBCO7l3w3xKSJ2A4hOGVNVuNs5IQIFy8CIxX9SXlNQutz0MSHxsGZz9_KR1zn1qmLodxCN2Ct8WX2LyXxQZI1mnd9g2rZk_lXxGkAOLZGyLn3OhyphenhyphenCRnrHYd05vZ/s1600/DSC_8325.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here's the piece I bought... my sole souvenir purchase from Myanmar!<br />
(Unless you count the bottle of wine I got in Yangon...)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We also visited a small village and met several people there, including a group of children. This was a nice moment for our little group, and it was a charming look into a very simple Burmese village life. It felt like stepping back in time 200 years. Everything seemed to be made from stone, bamboo, wood, and metal. Children played in the tidy dirt roads between bamboo-thatched houses. A horse-drawn carriage plied the path to a nearby pagoda. Young men worked up a sweat splitting piles of firewood to sell to their neighbors. A boy with his hair dyed and spiked for the upcoming <i>Thingyan</i> water festival – the Burmese new year – hung over a bamboo fence and chatted amiably. It was a particularly enjoyable visit, and it's the moments like this, rather than being carted around to one tourist site after another, that really make travel special.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL32xXF2bye63xYIk3-6HVH_XUD8cUBc0Efwi9bzkThJsCZRB4uD-DBmnNvA_rWc7b5cZvJP94gjqRsEaD0zGTeQqctwdrOP4enaEfA3vYw_4xd6QGWn1SETGXYbCS6q7-2-z-9sCr88dB/s1600/DSC_8110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL32xXF2bye63xYIk3-6HVH_XUD8cUBc0Efwi9bzkThJsCZRB4uD-DBmnNvA_rWc7b5cZvJP94gjqRsEaD0zGTeQqctwdrOP4enaEfA3vYw_4xd6QGWn1SETGXYbCS6q7-2-z-9sCr88dB/s1600/DSC_8110.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Like most bamboo and thatch structures in Myanmar, these dwellings<br />
have to be rebuilt every few years</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnXtGi4F9gLedM0U9wvzyOVJV2fnP7keVnuZHKfBYtijJZVxkC68I9c49Bk9Fbb3x8G8jwcJldiYaoIubJY0eh1bkioDd-B3MSWSvzSVJlY4oaQxAGsUYrvES6H73IUo_9loC5jixW4ZXV/s1600/DSC_8114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnXtGi4F9gLedM0U9wvzyOVJV2fnP7keVnuZHKfBYtijJZVxkC68I9c49Bk9Fbb3x8G8jwcJldiYaoIubJY0eh1bkioDd-B3MSWSvzSVJlY4oaQxAGsUYrvES6H73IUo_9loC5jixW4ZXV/s1600/DSC_8114.JPG" width="253" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A huge clay pot for water storage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1FLwQxx0BkbCZB4LNjqSmoegv09WFm0LUZA3Q7Q4GzLrKbm94v7qSHjSWS8jYn2OWfif79j0VzH2HQo75es7VZU-raGJTbUIJuEKZpuod_7-6NC9yntkiKMnrd_hnyngQhX1wnMyzu5Gi/s1600/DSC_8115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1FLwQxx0BkbCZB4LNjqSmoegv09WFm0LUZA3Q7Q4GzLrKbm94v7qSHjSWS8jYn2OWfif79j0VzH2HQo75es7VZU-raGJTbUIJuEKZpuod_7-6NC9yntkiKMnrd_hnyngQhX1wnMyzu5Gi/s1600/DSC_8115.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chopping firewood using a handmade ax... difficult work considering<br />
how hard this wood obviously was</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtjQaUXefg2-My0Ce7d7kJmNZOzzmizORD8tygXeZ283geh-rH3URD5CJgsm4MY1Qw1f9rmWF9NTZYBG7Fua21-y_Tkc3y0xzvx61_vDvjpEpqzSt2R1ZaJlqyvAT595IPH07R6r8AkRwi/s1600/DSC_8118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtjQaUXefg2-My0Ce7d7kJmNZOzzmizORD8tygXeZ283geh-rH3URD5CJgsm4MY1Qw1f9rmWF9NTZYBG7Fua21-y_Tkc3y0xzvx61_vDvjpEpqzSt2R1ZaJlqyvAT595IPH07R6r8AkRwi/s1600/DSC_8118.JPG" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not sure why some of the homes were elevated,<br />
but it might have to do with keeping wild animals<br />
out while sleeping at night</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCdhnKOb0z8l874_JPU1QM95VibXc1HIuGl59g3-_9oMpd-1dk6eSg77EzC9rrEkgDNVSkmffJTzQ8LzeTeyOsmr2ePcBZhunh4BuDHdze2I3-078HG5vOjegAe5ylTg0ZfZCbOURkcnNK/s1600/DSC_8120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCdhnKOb0z8l874_JPU1QM95VibXc1HIuGl59g3-_9oMpd-1dk6eSg77EzC9rrEkgDNVSkmffJTzQ8LzeTeyOsmr2ePcBZhunh4BuDHdze2I3-078HG5vOjegAe5ylTg0ZfZCbOURkcnNK/s1600/DSC_8120.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the children in the village from whom I bought little<br />
postcards they had colored in</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ldWw3X_PbH2P7p4uin1m51CACOQY5Qw3UIdb9BCrQgDuncEUtU4qJKKt4NGX5lUFgLtLfGLGjWgoB3Rk4A8_TzHaEGkM9C0k4EPvfodPsQPuzhu69JS_gJNdH9XrPJ11vhw6XxmQ9F3h/s1600/DSC_8122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ldWw3X_PbH2P7p4uin1m51CACOQY5Qw3UIdb9BCrQgDuncEUtU4qJKKt4NGX5lUFgLtLfGLGjWgoB3Rk4A8_TzHaEGkM9C0k4EPvfodPsQPuzhu69JS_gJNdH9XrPJ11vhw6XxmQ9F3h/s1600/DSC_8122.JPG" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the run-up to the <i>Thingyan </i>new year<br />
water festival, held in mid-April this year,<br />
the wilder the hair, the better</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifbbs5cOCgeMkSXBMbjKZ1NH2b_bJJOzm2ymIniPRU_-qN1wfZkGslws_g1a2Pa1z9fKtKaLwSPkgqyjQ9xFjyketOTcdBme2PnuH3nM2l-1cAVJNaLlZveoUf1cWvASRUWOgSWYKAnSWV/s1600/DSC_8137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifbbs5cOCgeMkSXBMbjKZ1NH2b_bJJOzm2ymIniPRU_-qN1wfZkGslws_g1a2Pa1z9fKtKaLwSPkgqyjQ9xFjyketOTcdBme2PnuH3nM2l-1cAVJNaLlZveoUf1cWvASRUWOgSWYKAnSWV/s1600/DSC_8137.JPG" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A village boy with his homemade push toy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbdofSHoD4RQzWIHSCHX6YyS2Vkfpx4IXUqbddwyivcSqSyGTYQn3P2_X2r51dwZ4m3DluVgSaNtkAKMuBbrJbAeBy5AG5LBvOCqpGdB3Iq4Fn-fOlvXsz7szHy8wDQn96sGxa6OQmsGGr/s1600/DSC_8143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbdofSHoD4RQzWIHSCHX6YyS2Vkfpx4IXUqbddwyivcSqSyGTYQn3P2_X2r51dwZ4m3DluVgSaNtkAKMuBbrJbAeBy5AG5LBvOCqpGdB3Iq4Fn-fOlvXsz7szHy8wDQn96sGxa6OQmsGGr/s1600/DSC_8143.JPG" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A horse-drawn carriage and the village's<br />
small temple in the late afternoon sun</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As the sun sank ever lower in the sky, we paid a brief visit to the grand Shwezigon Pagoda in Nyaung-U, not far from Bagan. The late afternoon sun on the gilded surfaces of the temple and its surrounding structures was pretty amazing, and of course, plenty of Buddhist ceremonies were going on there, too. Following that, we clambered aboard our bus to go back to Shwesandaw, the same pagoda we had climbed up earlier in the day. The sunset return to Bagan and the pagodas was an entirely different experience, as we had been forewarned. In the morning, it had been rather quiet and serene. Climbing to the top to look out over the plains brought a nice moment of introspection and reflection. We were very nearly the only ones there. By late afternoon, with hopes of an impressive and photo-worthy sunset over the pagoda-dotted landscape, throngs of camera-wielding tourists had descended like locusts, and Shwesandaw, also known as the "sunset pagoda" (with its frightfully steep stairs), was overrun with people. Rather than let this ugly spectacle dissuade me from joining in, I took the opposite approach and clambered gleefully up the hair-raising stairs to join the party.<br />
<br />
Alas, the sunset was a bust, the sun sliding behind a horizon-hugging cloud bank with a whimper rather than going out in a fiery blaze of glory. Still, the landscape was evocative, and it was surprisingly easy to "edit" the people out of both my photos and my actual experience, making this a distinctly memorable moment from the trip.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhScHOhpGty4BM8MD5DHWyaRXAfQ_ql-d_0qUav8FElHA7F79K56LCRoSzu57WeHxloqIrMMwrXoHyjt55PnbHr05z9BKXCwzzYe0w7SUPXyf-EmDndzYdOPKkBp7lY_8ZN4rNxUzTYZjqk/s1600/DSC_8148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhScHOhpGty4BM8MD5DHWyaRXAfQ_ql-d_0qUav8FElHA7F79K56LCRoSzu57WeHxloqIrMMwrXoHyjt55PnbHr05z9BKXCwzzYe0w7SUPXyf-EmDndzYdOPKkBp7lY_8ZN4rNxUzTYZjqk/s1600/DSC_8148.JPG" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young monks near the entrance of<br />
Shwezigon Pagoda</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQXkwIbow7Kskmwq0k-xFj9EQwvgP2TG3yDzMp3Div5W_1jO5caHMvzOS7Ibca08Jdo7wL4Gk8CeCG7MEn4ztmlAeOtQukD09rSFc9JtsW7ULC4cQz2th34gvU-io4284tJF4UnwH4srbr/s1600/DSC_8150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQXkwIbow7Kskmwq0k-xFj9EQwvgP2TG3yDzMp3Div5W_1jO5caHMvzOS7Ibca08Jdo7wL4Gk8CeCG7MEn4ztmlAeOtQukD09rSFc9JtsW7ULC4cQz2th34gvU-io4284tJF4UnwH4srbr/s1600/DSC_8150.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The various spires and temple buildings at Shwezigon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExYb4CkRJlN2Tci20BCkF77QIC3-McL8ZXFsevhwCU1kMn-VmJfpCEoglpp8p4QyETYt_ZH5B5hydR70Q6Qyy_CH5CZrCVKV8vBbGvjPiVoxq-pQexFm4Ywp2IoRoLNLBUs21hULtHMSl/s1600/DSC_8152.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExYb4CkRJlN2Tci20BCkF77QIC3-McL8ZXFsevhwCU1kMn-VmJfpCEoglpp8p4QyETYt_ZH5B5hydR70Q6Qyy_CH5CZrCVKV8vBbGvjPiVoxq-pQexFm4Ywp2IoRoLNLBUs21hULtHMSl/s1600/DSC_8152.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The main stupa at Shwezigon Pagoda,<br />
which was completed in 1102</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiozVvGjvNqKkJbPUeWR5UpYMsbstEZCpUlaZbd7kBU8SLA7D7YLVgx-iJP6Hy2V9M0QsOwfwCUAuDAsfVndHlNthqVfUNmn4gjuNWUJ1ojBhwQ2hjpZ8C13EViqQyTtwgGsRJg-Wci5yeg/s1600/DSC_8155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiozVvGjvNqKkJbPUeWR5UpYMsbstEZCpUlaZbd7kBU8SLA7D7YLVgx-iJP6Hy2V9M0QsOwfwCUAuDAsfVndHlNthqVfUNmn4gjuNWUJ1ojBhwQ2hjpZ8C13EViqQyTtwgGsRJg-Wci5yeg/s1600/DSC_8155.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The late afternoon sun illuminating the gilded surfaces at<br />
Shwezigon Pagoda was beautiful</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWBr1zYNTbc945P2W2s9PBBtANWGTpSBRQb4u9cyPa5pujLY4wZelPLmU_naEPofO-0BEA18_bWLkVMLj7SpReVjJkvXMfJD6WsrglN_eOHlojYADWishhoiIWOmDtqCfyZ837-2mPLHn/s1600/DSC_8158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWBr1zYNTbc945P2W2s9PBBtANWGTpSBRQb4u9cyPa5pujLY4wZelPLmU_naEPofO-0BEA18_bWLkVMLj7SpReVjJkvXMfJD6WsrglN_eOHlojYADWishhoiIWOmDtqCfyZ837-2mPLHn/s1600/DSC_8158.JPG" width="291" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm not sure this photo effectively conveys the<br />
hordes of people crowding the "sunset pagoda,"<br />
but it gives a small glimpse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8XQNlz93XVrletdmqDKe0NsmCpy9Q-WQ0T565EaZSeV7bFf0bYMvsyASMJoEDlvZlYCb-mcMV1LK_rGvVyOrVkmdWFQtrf7XsxsdhF0p27LGcKwRIeRd4boZuMqwCqMMbo43XWkLBN4tC/s1600/IMG_20150327_094743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8XQNlz93XVrletdmqDKe0NsmCpy9Q-WQ0T565EaZSeV7bFf0bYMvsyASMJoEDlvZlYCb-mcMV1LK_rGvVyOrVkmdWFQtrf7XsxsdhF0p27LGcKwRIeRd4boZuMqwCqMMbo43XWkLBN4tC/s1600/IMG_20150327_094743.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bit dusty and windswept, but still enjoying the Bagan experience!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrmrOAwN5Cc9rsXwj9I64pyFaTKntOfHkRraYZGUYANtWiE1TDfCtc2Ckn7ZOAeBThGM9m7k1fUUcOQ2Y0A3TlQBekQm5ZcbA08xMBvmPWQqCdj9q_JydsPwKY9OEhL6ov7So3vJ2ZWAR3/s1600/DSC_8175.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Dhammayangyi </i>pagoda, left, dominates this particular view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrmrOAwN5Cc9rsXwj9I64pyFaTKntOfHkRraYZGUYANtWiE1TDfCtc2Ckn7ZOAeBThGM9m7k1fUUcOQ2Y0A3TlQBekQm5ZcbA08xMBvmPWQqCdj9q_JydsPwKY9OEhL6ov7So3vJ2ZWAR3/s1600/DSC_8175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"></a><br /></div>
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<span style="color: #0000ee;"><u><br /></u></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggVEbvhAjBDve2UGKgmAWtjN4sIjpht9dec8p681B__Brd2Urlw-1fxOFno-0BkaZTg0-O2fLoLG-O0zjfspcyN7sTh09DD9IXKm0pwyGD2_o93HqPqet8NqsYDPV6njGM5ChZp0_OzTko/s1600/DSC_8170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggVEbvhAjBDve2UGKgmAWtjN4sIjpht9dec8p681B__Brd2Urlw-1fxOFno-0BkaZTg0-O2fLoLG-O0zjfspcyN7sTh09DD9IXKm0pwyGD2_o93HqPqet8NqsYDPV6njGM5ChZp0_OzTko/s1600/DSC_8170.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's not straight down, but it's pretty close</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After the sun's last gasp, I made my way back down the stairs and we meandered back to the jetty and returned to the ship. I rested a bit, showered and got cleaned up, and joined my new friends for our final dinner aboard the <i>Road to Mandalay</i>. We had gotten to know our servers as we had the same handful of guys taking care of us over the last few days, so we got some pics of them at our last meal, along with Kyu Kyu, who was making her rounds to talk to all the passengers.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiegbYV1eOcDhw-jCdjZDJE_0zo73sLKYhokMpglEhHgMf_L9lpt5OVsPiNvTsDZw6RKL8KXhjlB0IFfxIEqjGlaaWPY3dk5KyqTfLOFzeY9d-8NB2cviunCMpEapZruoXDCZBlRji0kQWy/s1600/DSC_8196.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiegbYV1eOcDhw-jCdjZDJE_0zo73sLKYhokMpglEhHgMf_L9lpt5OVsPiNvTsDZw6RKL8KXhjlB0IFfxIEqjGlaaWPY3dk5KyqTfLOFzeY9d-8NB2cviunCMpEapZruoXDCZBlRji0kQWy/s1600/DSC_8196.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tables set and festooned with flowers for our final dinner</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCCf2ZLaLrr1IC5ya8vQVTZdnWuBzJJIyMRBK2JQ09zgxyHghLH64KeXxXSIWYdLfMsn68nQ8iX3U-eBJqVmZz_7bhhz9zUHjbEnj4t65HCBcFewdqTYxscww3ucEWXa7Q8AIuiGPfEzxV/s1600/DSC00842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCCf2ZLaLrr1IC5ya8vQVTZdnWuBzJJIyMRBK2JQ09zgxyHghLH64KeXxXSIWYdLfMsn68nQ8iX3U-eBJqVmZz_7bhhz9zUHjbEnj4t65HCBcFewdqTYxscww3ucEWXa7Q8AIuiGPfEzxV/s1600/DSC00842.JPG" width="288" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chloe, center, from my group, along with our<br />
favorite two regular servers, T.J. and Zin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsIWiGSqBOwQc2DSYLJW1MJ8WAARWD798cGcQ2M2TGAPUA_nkgpi9W7m-ndhz2HqtPQoteHDPQLbNVZUWK8rmlzyRVTht2j8wYeILNhUifSjLpgR7RnJI4i21GMGGzS5DwxsIeoQJ43CGF/s1600/DSC00843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsIWiGSqBOwQc2DSYLJW1MJ8WAARWD798cGcQ2M2TGAPUA_nkgpi9W7m-ndhz2HqtPQoteHDPQLbNVZUWK8rmlzyRVTht2j8wYeILNhUifSjLpgR7RnJI4i21GMGGzS5DwxsIeoQJ43CGF/s1600/DSC00843.JPG" width="330" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's me with the ship's boss lady, Kyu Kyu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We hated to leave the ship, of course, but the next morning, after eating breakfast and seeing a small fleet of hot air balloons rising above the plains of Bagan at sunrise, we were shuttled to the little Nyaung-U airport and flew Yangon Airways back to Yangon. After enjoying the languid peacefulness of rural Myanmar along the Irrawaddy River, along with the refined elegance of the cruise ship, dropping back into Yangon with its urban trappings and millions of residents was like a slap in the face.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl_sry5grk7pPr195vsgD11lNo0ZS_IuesAftAX_hvAHKEV_AtrFHeTapgxEO4HySAXge_SxTUI03Ul3jmzFzI4R19v_j8AUBRG8nyDcCN7WhM0ivF7q-znLsDtApIczeLBcryuYdnnVd5/s1600/DSC00853.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl_sry5grk7pPr195vsgD11lNo0ZS_IuesAftAX_hvAHKEV_AtrFHeTapgxEO4HySAXge_SxTUI03Ul3jmzFzI4R19v_j8AUBRG8nyDcCN7WhM0ivF7q-znLsDtApIczeLBcryuYdnnVd5/s1600/DSC00853.JPG" width="386" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Operated by Eastern Safaris and called "Balloons over Bagan," a<br />
number of hot air balloons rise gracefully along with the morning sun</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCc-H6i-6MYC5SR3zig1pp1aQOouOBS3pkxj2H4qSyccF55ZeBBNr3yA5osa3zfaVJLPlKMncHnQs5zkMZhH6VDh9czIYg7LEAqVhYqbQjGym4XWkM930RM7I5-gKRIrpEQmIKKd3ra-qL/s1600/DSC00859.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCc-H6i-6MYC5SR3zig1pp1aQOouOBS3pkxj2H4qSyccF55ZeBBNr3yA5osa3zfaVJLPlKMncHnQs5zkMZhH6VDh9czIYg7LEAqVhYqbQjGym4XWkM930RM7I5-gKRIrpEQmIKKd3ra-qL/s1600/DSC00859.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fate-tempting slogan? Fortunately for us, not this time... we had<br />
a smooth and easy flight from Nyaung-U to Yangon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We returned to the Belmond Governor's Residence, where we were graciously welcomed back. We were able to relax in our rooms for a while, then had a Burmese cooking class and lunch that was more of a cooking demo than an actual class. Still though, it was pretty interesting, and the food that it yielded it was absolutely delicious. That afternoon, we went on a fairly uninspired tour around Yangon, including a stop at the famous Shwedagon Pagoda, a gilded stupa that rises 344 feet (105m) over the city, and the Chaukhtatgyi Temple, which houses one of the largest reclining Buddha statues in Asia (215 feet long!). Though the pagoda was a good stop (with its separate gender-specific metal detectors providing a glimpse of the truly absurd), it's pretty safe to say this half-day runaround was not my favorite part of the overall trip, though there were a couple of cool points here and there, and I always enjoy just riding around and seeing the sights in an unfamiliar place. Still, I was glad to get back to the hotel.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDfG_PFEW7DEsd8zX85OnN4jOyVw7ER4h40IGoF7qKSiv9_qmqbJuzOWZX8msBCsaxsXjHryH-FE1PcvCET40hM3eZHzIa-vHLlJdoNZ1y7v-RpnfXcv-u0fK499fltoa97zCJYsguEq4W/s1600/DSC_8237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDfG_PFEW7DEsd8zX85OnN4jOyVw7ER4h40IGoF7qKSiv9_qmqbJuzOWZX8msBCsaxsXjHryH-FE1PcvCET40hM3eZHzIa-vHLlJdoNZ1y7v-RpnfXcv-u0fK499fltoa97zCJYsguEq4W/s1600/DSC_8237.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welcome back!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRY8WqbeG7h4eDhFlXRzEDux8D8xSxQgXCM4JzGYfjDZVTCamNi55s8nd9-_7kYPi85cd88tPVuR3xJx5QJ06NPl5pBzh59ok_SLFF0aD5fEYPN4W5OtLrnQEIz0pL_kX9tBgpKNij0j_-/s1600/DSC_8236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRY8WqbeG7h4eDhFlXRzEDux8D8xSxQgXCM4JzGYfjDZVTCamNi55s8nd9-_7kYPi85cd88tPVuR3xJx5QJ06NPl5pBzh59ok_SLFF0aD5fEYPN4W5OtLrnQEIz0pL_kX9tBgpKNij0j_-/s1600/DSC_8236.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Different room, just as lovely and spacious</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2IXur2W2x2Fp-YJOL2IFfE7-7O5z6wQhzKHTPSTcaKqC66thNgDg8cOuxRWdPAUTrD1CLkhYSVfsnx3Cq8OyjX-cmnLb4wzm2RAKifHsDggPQmSVX2mcTK7yAI5L8oFJu7dvATJXcuok6/s1600/DSC00869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2IXur2W2x2Fp-YJOL2IFfE7-7O5z6wQhzKHTPSTcaKqC66thNgDg8cOuxRWdPAUTrD1CLkhYSVfsnx3Cq8OyjX-cmnLb4wzm2RAKifHsDggPQmSVX2mcTK7yAI5L8oFJu7dvATJXcuok6/s1600/DSC00869.JPG" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chef Stanny at the Governor's Residence,<br />
showing us how to make some tasty local salads</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFaaCfRBWwsQ3DCgxZen_qCeVLRQdoZ9W5BkC85e8nShca6YyV7pV5gwjkgUJbEcJZzvXaF6e3_ParqdVvzq_rf5VSBz-lws7bE81FhCl-YWYQC5RshXNd0boTMkqFra0USgM2Dt_G18O-/s1600/DSC00871.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFaaCfRBWwsQ3DCgxZen_qCeVLRQdoZ9W5BkC85e8nShca6YyV7pV5gwjkgUJbEcJZzvXaF6e3_ParqdVvzq_rf5VSBz-lws7bE81FhCl-YWYQC5RshXNd0boTMkqFra0USgM2Dt_G18O-/s1600/DSC00871.JPG" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We did all our cooking over traditional<br />
charcoal burners</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX13HonoakoFlL3PhTD4TdY_KmPWZE2cZhtHreVy30gl5xh6sBrah_bx00K7WdB_9OVoUoPBpp9rU05RrIjpSKWZwWHC92HCWDRtKHoMnir1dHwKNilcgHPjGRNTEl2RkxUiSONle0HEy6/s1600/DSC00872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX13HonoakoFlL3PhTD4TdY_KmPWZE2cZhtHreVy30gl5xh6sBrah_bx00K7WdB_9OVoUoPBpp9rU05RrIjpSKWZwWHC92HCWDRtKHoMnir1dHwKNilcgHPjGRNTEl2RkxUiSONle0HEy6/s1600/DSC00872.JPG" width="291" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shallots, garlic, ginger, turmeric... this was never<br />
going to end poorly!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7MzRbeYGUy-N_CeBAvME8rj-lvdDk7-m24F42Gxb1l7BbCsgW4oppWJcIv-kH1iiU_DiJYJLw90P9W5cq7o8LStQ4EXal3H5MJwYBenkrWjTq8oNs65P9OCGu0iOkF1uWzS4rhNTsIR3e/s1600/DSC00862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7MzRbeYGUy-N_CeBAvME8rj-lvdDk7-m24F42Gxb1l7BbCsgW4oppWJcIv-kH1iiU_DiJYJLw90P9W5cq7o8LStQ4EXal3H5MJwYBenkrWjTq8oNs65P9OCGu0iOkF1uWzS4rhNTsIR3e/s1600/DSC00862.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A decidedly more urban novitiation ceremony... perhaps not as<br />
grand and colorful as those we saw in the big temples, but still fun<br />
nevertheless. The boys sure seem to be enjoying themselves!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglUNycsknWKSBF6naNw5nu5d5BNTkOUTqNIMSE1WiAie4R60MnnR-HqJgyZsnM-VLkXcfgyK9TyI2BtfopWjVGGbXG7c9LOyFQpmYJMy3-vcSULxWwH9zL6fOA3qi3PeaEyHIHCqIdBR_D/s1600/usfsddsrl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglUNycsknWKSBF6naNw5nu5d5BNTkOUTqNIMSE1WiAie4R60MnnR-HqJgyZsnM-VLkXcfgyK9TyI2BtfopWjVGGbXG7c9LOyFQpmYJMy3-vcSULxWwH9zL6fOA3qi3PeaEyHIHCqIdBR_D/s1600/usfsddsrl.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The main 325-foot gilded stupa at Yangon's Shwedagon Pagoda, the<br />
most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar; The crown is tipped with<br />
a staggering 5,448 diamonds and 2,317 rubies </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnbDNpkq9pX8v1W1IITcE0IXEo9IAtedqCnqN5zlMDp6YimgPYcfADCGYT5OuJXsSPFt0n_nGbLTrjmQkA4vAmb6rvbNGHx6oV4eAkvHhsl81es_MX6P8ZtN9-Lob1tZZkD72A7WCB1AAI/s1600/DSC_8211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnbDNpkq9pX8v1W1IITcE0IXEo9IAtedqCnqN5zlMDp6YimgPYcfADCGYT5OuJXsSPFt0n_nGbLTrjmQkA4vAmb6rvbNGHx6oV4eAkvHhsl81es_MX6P8ZtN9-Lob1tZZkD72A7WCB1AAI/s1600/DSC_8211.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Various temples surrounding the main stupa<br />
at Shwedagon Pagoda</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpYGronJm-QkjmNi0E3elAsXOeWl9vE_LsO2cKoplF_SXVBWe4Jtxnmj1-gNMzoBU6gBaAKHC9q9ZM0DBN61H-Fwouvc0yyb2CFWqBvDCvsrcuPj9Z0_zlbCPg-K5l5KF1-iaaH0ANp8RB/s1600/DSC_8215.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpYGronJm-QkjmNi0E3elAsXOeWl9vE_LsO2cKoplF_SXVBWe4Jtxnmj1-gNMzoBU6gBaAKHC9q9ZM0DBN61H-Fwouvc0yyb2CFWqBvDCvsrcuPj9Z0_zlbCPg-K5l5KF1-iaaH0ANp8RB/s1600/DSC_8215.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another of the many Buddhist ceremonies that are carried out at this<br />
venerated pagoda regularly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw4ILo1pOEWnmd0EOk1jLbVHmKeZ7YaCCI9ylOBKFthua4HKEiPu2cDs-ky1Z3esfkr_6Ouue4r2k6Vxiblj8XFvit1OGsL4g0n-S0uGkv8KW3LtfSZDeY6fHRDaHQdUGn7FovCpEFs525/s1600/DSC_8235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw4ILo1pOEWnmd0EOk1jLbVHmKeZ7YaCCI9ylOBKFthua4HKEiPu2cDs-ky1Z3esfkr_6Ouue4r2k6Vxiblj8XFvit1OGsL4g0n-S0uGkv8KW3LtfSZDeY6fHRDaHQdUGn7FovCpEFs525/s1600/DSC_8235.JPG" width="273" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mind boggles at what sort of cultural taboos<br />
could possibly inspire separate, gender-specific<br />
metal detectors</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4LiBcGEXntDOq9mG5l00YOBSdPL_doYZW14U1BFsbC9xHZxsTz2Ab9qSv5e5I_X5Grc1phaAYyM3m33vZtWv2h1qAFHi_N4ab05U-wM0JfksHpNENtznYNf8JbwauI0jIJ1THwz-IzRsm/s1600/DSC_8243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4LiBcGEXntDOq9mG5l00YOBSdPL_doYZW14U1BFsbC9xHZxsTz2Ab9qSv5e5I_X5Grc1phaAYyM3m33vZtWv2h1qAFHi_N4ab05U-wM0JfksHpNENtznYNf8JbwauI0jIJ1THwz-IzRsm/s1600/DSC_8243.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The big Buddha has some big feet! The 108 symbols depicted<br />
on the feet corresponds to the 108 <i>lakshanas, </i>or auspicious<br />
characteristics of the Buddha</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUlEhy9pHzWSpXs8vs6ViTxN0IpJJNiKo_k8jUnCCuVyh1WOnrI_pEztvbSNHyxkBU78qPRwS801zv_J09jCRdoLS2AQpRCa8b-gXMuYrIwZ3drU0NWDQPUaX4F5ZUktLNuBTWylEFdupw/s1600/DSC_8248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUlEhy9pHzWSpXs8vs6ViTxN0IpJJNiKo_k8jUnCCuVyh1WOnrI_pEztvbSNHyxkBU78qPRwS801zv_J09jCRdoLS2AQpRCa8b-gXMuYrIwZ3drU0NWDQPUaX4F5ZUktLNuBTWylEFdupw/s1600/DSC_8248.JPG" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flowers left as an offering at <i>Chaukhtatgyi</i><br />
Temple, home to the giant reclining Buddha</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOaxW5uilfQFbFyR3Z8a4TSg9igTd4b8pvpMEJgaXtELNR-yy075Ft1OTHggNPBvB-KTzSwAmXScRPryiTfAXRHdGXzkBr0pTuJl4oN14lDRPOuGTPjSjtpPjhZgbEKLp7A0V_gDsr9P8w/s1600/DSC_8249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOaxW5uilfQFbFyR3Z8a4TSg9igTd4b8pvpMEJgaXtELNR-yy075Ft1OTHggNPBvB-KTzSwAmXScRPryiTfAXRHdGXzkBr0pTuJl4oN14lDRPOuGTPjSjtpPjhZgbEKLp7A0V_gDsr9P8w/s1600/DSC_8249.JPG" width="288" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A street scene near central Yangon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXuAGf0Ou4y5zJ5bafCDdoC2r6u-LLuw3ChyphenhyphenXVsWjTjEwnqkkBmZ0igtN6nAC4bmbftOyhHuCvsmAN_gu7UUOaefXp8xDSaCKHJGThpphZ1xDC4Gbo1u2vohqGxecR7LNNFdFq6MhmkR-b/s1600/DSC_8259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXuAGf0Ou4y5zJ5bafCDdoC2r6u-LLuw3ChyphenhyphenXVsWjTjEwnqkkBmZ0igtN6nAC4bmbftOyhHuCvsmAN_gu7UUOaefXp8xDSaCKHJGThpphZ1xDC4Gbo1u2vohqGxecR7LNNFdFq6MhmkR-b/s1600/DSC_8259.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I couldn't resist snapping a picture of this... I probably haven't seen an<br />
actual, removable pop top from a soda can since the late '70s!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3et8rB3E5rypIzFdWC9GqMVWWaew36cq6rQtlJiOTUQ62_Sfkuf0cOzdDxnHPJv0LYRNqDXtSJYCn57EFbytuBLl8ULKhlk1mMZwp4levG5_g-n1YbiVRTgj0bGbqMW2xju2n9fDfNGMs/s1600/DSC_8250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3et8rB3E5rypIzFdWC9GqMVWWaew36cq6rQtlJiOTUQ62_Sfkuf0cOzdDxnHPJv0LYRNqDXtSJYCn57EFbytuBLl8ULKhlk1mMZwp4levG5_g-n1YbiVRTgj0bGbqMW2xju2n9fDfNGMs/s1600/DSC_8250.JPG" width="230" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The clock tower of the Supreme Court<br />
of Myanmar in Yangon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4WdgdNtbdWamHXngC6uxABMMIhHiHcEzWFmZpYXeie_zc0iJfyHIJLO1BflrjOKgYjBJfqhWIV6Qv5WfUq1M9U5NNborZl52aJaZJhetDzQ7E-ika9d6amsiWbBe6LE-361io6gMD6zpo/s1600/DSC_8251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4WdgdNtbdWamHXngC6uxABMMIhHiHcEzWFmZpYXeie_zc0iJfyHIJLO1BflrjOKgYjBJfqhWIV6Qv5WfUq1M9U5NNborZl52aJaZJhetDzQ7E-ika9d6amsiWbBe6LE-361io6gMD6zpo/s1600/DSC_8251.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A smattering of gilded pagodas against a fairly austere urban landscape</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4uXX1AH99z6WecFvug9XMNCZtKfSca0HvYXs8tvn3YVYzNPvCU0zMuodo3VMFXisamrCxJ1Xwm0hrOFV80OeLTyNm4qda_pNi7g6taNUUsCgHL0b3cjp-7k7F6XJl1imXP5mQGof2ljxG/s1600/DSC_8262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4uXX1AH99z6WecFvug9XMNCZtKfSca0HvYXs8tvn3YVYzNPvCU0zMuodo3VMFXisamrCxJ1Xwm0hrOFV80OeLTyNm4qda_pNi7g6taNUUsCgHL0b3cjp-7k7F6XJl1imXP5mQGof2ljxG/s1600/DSC_8262.JPG" width="272" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another busy street scene, with a vendor guiding<br />
a trishaw with coils of rope through the alley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Dinner that night was in the poolside restaurant – unfortunately a somewhat lamentable affair so I won't reminisce too much on that point – and after a good night's sleep (and another soak in that giant terrazo bathtub), followed by a delicious champagne breakfast the next morning, I headed back to Yangon's airport for my flight back to Kuala Lumpur. It was a truly great trip, highlighted of course by the incredible cruise on the Belmond <i>Road to Mandalay</i>, and I was glad to have visited Myanmar, a country which had been on my travel to-do list for quite some time. It's a place to which I'd definitely return.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hqfdohNrmwE00B_PQ_q-criR6VmhzNmz2ofTHlyHAhB6Dp4MRko9gSRWrkXabmYLW4JF3kXA-jZPRV1qt9fRduJcCOztSqBeAslsAHpv-7oWWz9XlTKp7B29rptMw2J7mhCD1W47tIl0/s1600/DSC00882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hqfdohNrmwE00B_PQ_q-criR6VmhzNmz2ofTHlyHAhB6Dp4MRko9gSRWrkXabmYLW4JF3kXA-jZPRV1qt9fRduJcCOztSqBeAslsAHpv-7oWWz9XlTKp7B29rptMw2J7mhCD1W47tIl0/s1600/DSC00882.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from our table at dinner was definitely nice,<br />
but it kind of went downhill from here</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyYD44JkKU1gyg27BFzMxuCFyZwbPrF89GGRS8ZTvOq1EshWgpNNlTg6_nfpgr80VkpBXXnuYAfAbmmzusGJ-Q0-ObhMbNjueP2Eeq0blxaZI7iMrZRHs0zJp1dhUjOcyLMX5xm69EvRpH/s1600/IMG_20150329_071758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyYD44JkKU1gyg27BFzMxuCFyZwbPrF89GGRS8ZTvOq1EshWgpNNlTg6_nfpgr80VkpBXXnuYAfAbmmzusGJ-Q0-ObhMbNjueP2Eeq0blxaZI7iMrZRHs0zJp1dhUjOcyLMX5xm69EvRpH/s1600/IMG_20150329_071758.jpg" width="307" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My final breakfast in Myanmar before heading<br />
off to the Yangon Airport</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Next up is a relatively brief week-long visit back to Denver at the end of April, followed by my first trip to Japan. I'll be spending what will undoubtedly feel like a very short two nights in Tokyo... looking forward to the introduction to Japan, and I'll be sure to post some photos of that trip, too.<br />
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<br />Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-14311504029700955262015-04-05T05:56:00.000-06:002015-04-25T12:27:58.532-06:00Land, Sea, and Air: Visiting Myanmar, part 1<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZSiBQasTUUD3T9DeYUMgQqrQYOaszj70Nu2unTttJ2CEgI-x0oYpMMykkofScnNXg7VRBO-kJCMZ2B2GOZLIvrSZPNPLz1vY_JP2_NiW5-w_B31FGqSEYzLmFM1acOsDhH4mV5MeYgxt/s1600/eDSC_7694.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZSiBQasTUUD3T9DeYUMgQqrQYOaszj70Nu2unTttJ2CEgI-x0oYpMMykkofScnNXg7VRBO-kJCMZ2B2GOZLIvrSZPNPLz1vY_JP2_NiW5-w_B31FGqSEYzLmFM1acOsDhH4mV5MeYgxt/s1600/eDSC_7694.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; text-align: center;">Pagodas are a common sight in Myanmar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A country long closed to tourists and consistently ranked among the world's worst for the oft-joined scourges of corruption and systemic human rights violations, Myanmar has seen plenty of positive changes in recent years. The Southeast Asian country's history is a complex and fascinating one, dating back beyond antiquity, with recorded evidence of modern humans living there as far back as 11,000 BCE. By the advent of the Bronze Age, around 1500 BCE, people in the area were cultivating rice, alloying copper to make bronze, and domesticating poultry and pigs – among the first humans in the world to do so.<br />
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Between 200 BCE and 100 BCE, the first city-states began to emerge in what is now central Myanmar. Hundreds of years later, by 800 CE, a number of city-states had taken shape across the land. In 849, a settlement was founded at Pagan – today called Bagan – by the Mranma people of Nanzhao. Over the next century and a half, Pagan grew in both grandeur and authority, reigning over competing city-states in the area, and it was during the two successive centuries that thousands of temples, monasteries, and pagodas would be constructed across the plains of the kingdom, many of which still stand today and comprise one of Myanmar's most compelling tourist attractions.</div>
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However, the kingdom did not endure. Repeated attacks and Mongol invasions eventually toppled the four-century-old empire in 1287. For 250 years after Pagan's collapse, the kingdom remained fragmented and splintered. Two sizable powers eventually emerged by late in the 14th century, and one kingdom, Ava, waged a series of unsuccessful wars for reunification. The other kingdom, Hanthawaddy, rebuffed Ava and entered its own golden era, while the weakened Ava kingdom declined.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEfgldUraMONry5Dht90vSrfEPEsQUoHe3f8q3ANcUcUdaIT7qzKo9r6ULOG5wF2ksMJ8cCAdewwZo-dfcS3AarIxY6LDFQ1UNNwCyObE1IqweDzY3LWzOtbNqjRVdUl9p5GV8AV1DlI-f/s1600/RTM-EXT-BAG-10+(Large).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEfgldUraMONry5Dht90vSrfEPEsQUoHe3f8q3ANcUcUdaIT7qzKo9r6ULOG5wF2ksMJ8cCAdewwZo-dfcS3AarIxY6LDFQ1UNNwCyObE1IqweDzY3LWzOtbNqjRVdUl9p5GV8AV1DlI-f/s1600/RTM-EXT-BAG-10+(Large).jpg" height="251" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; text-align: center;">An ancient pagoda stands tirelessly by the Irrawaddy River<br />
(photo courtesy of Belmond)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Centuries of competing interests from Europe and other Asian nations seemed to endure in what was by then called Burma until the British took control following a trio of Anglo-Burmese Wars from 1824 to 1885. When the city of Mandalay fell to the British in 1886, all of Burma came under British rule, and in 1937 was named a separately administered colony of Great Britain. It was not a comfortable relationship at all, as many Burmese leaders openly advocated for self-rule, and as war overtook the world in subsequent years, Burma was a significant battleground and the Burmese army, while initially fighting with the Japanese, switched allegiance to the Allies in 1945. Following World War II, the Panglong Agreement was negotiated to guarantee Burma's independence as a sovereign, unified state, and it became so on 4 January 1948. Unlike other former British colonies, however, Burma did not become a member of the Commonwealth.</div>
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A military coup d'état saw the control of Burma shift to a military regime in 1962 and the military has exerted control directly or indirectly ever since. However, democratic reforms appear to be underway in the last few years, and the military regime was formally dissolved on 30 March 2011. All this has led to a substantial opening of the country to visitors, and they have come to the long-isolated country in droves, seeking new and authentic travel experiences, and have been welcomed by friendly, gracious people and a rapidly strengthening tourist infrastructure.</div>
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So there's the very brief historical background. I had long had Myanmar (which formally changed its name from Burma in 1989) in my travel sights. It's not far from Malaysia, and I had heard only good things from friends and colleagues who had traveled there. So when the opportunity came to visit Yangon, Mandalay, and Bagan (formerly Pagan), I seized it. The trip would have me flying into Yangon, staying overnight, then taking an early-morning domestic flight to Mandalay, where I'd board a stately cruise ship and take a three-night voyage down the mighty Irrawaddy River to Bagan, then fly from there back to Yangon, spend another day and night, then return to KL. Sounded good to me! By the end of the six-day trip, I realized I had actually traveled by land (by foot, by trishaw, by car, by van, and by bus), by sea (or rather by river, in a range of vessels from relatively compact wooden longtail boats to a 333-foot cruise ship), and by air (twin-engine propeller planes and B737 jetliners)... hence the name of this entry!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkRLZ-hf4urRtncMxhNA2UWJyPWhA-I0rSCrg6-bo8Y5DX-pIGCB4KquxZQnfoqqkpOmtQnVA52JOurBEEdLx4-PXIqkRZlmVjSkGwXH7dWh48Z2wKpoCGYkRkQGIlJnvS5eqPbAKwcl6p/s1600/myan-MMAP-md.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkRLZ-hf4urRtncMxhNA2UWJyPWhA-I0rSCrg6-bo8Y5DX-pIGCB4KquxZQnfoqqkpOmtQnVA52JOurBEEdLx4-PXIqkRZlmVjSkGwXH7dWh48Z2wKpoCGYkRkQGIlJnvS5eqPbAKwcl6p/s1600/myan-MMAP-md.png" height="226" width="320" /></a></div>
Roughly the size of Texas, Myanmar is the largest mainland country in the ASEAN union, which it joined in 1997, though the aggregate land mass of Indonesia's many islands claim the top spot overall. Myanmar is bordered by Bangladesh and India (and the Bay of Bengal) on the western side, China to the northeast, Laos and Thailand on the eastern side, and the Andaman Sea to the south.Since it covers areas from around 10°N by Thailand on the Andaman Sea all the way to around 28°N in the Himalayas (indeed the highest point in SE Asia is in extreme northern Myanmar, the 19,295-foot Hkakabo Raza), the country is quite ecologically and geographically diverse, and limited development over the years has allowed much of the country to remain relatively undisturbed by humanity, something of an anomaly in the 21st century.</div>
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Yangon – formerly Rangoon – is of course a completely different story, and has definitely seen its share of human disturbance. Today, well over 10% of Myanmar's 51 million people live in this, its largest city. With a fairly modern airport (which has undergone a continuing modernization and expansion program begun in 2003), Yangon is pretty easy to fly in and out of, particularly considering how poorly developed the country is as a whole.</div>
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I flew Malaysia Airlines, which offered surprisingly inexpensive fares to Yangon – why go with the low-cost airline when the full-service one is such good value, I say – and it's about a 2.5-hour flight. Curiously, Myanmar is 1.5 hours behind KL time. Not quite as bizarre as Nepal's time zone (2 hrs 15 min behind), but a bit unconventional all the same. I had applied online for my eVisa previously, so going through immigration in Yangon was a complete breeze, and a new stamp for the passport, too. Always fun.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">First course of the meal service onboard Malaysia<br />
Airlines to Yangon</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">A part of Yangon from the air</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlNm_0gH-RtkQUUFqZco17I_jBhJCeoEuP7UXwPCe2fhXGYXwYuT0YCMmtkD1NijTD5PJxcxbumwAtjqrYPi0Ij_8vF4UX99PkPuFbT3yDs5KWZKpVO2nQ3GPVKxAvkV56K1qPKyZC6q55/s1600/DSC00886.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlNm_0gH-RtkQUUFqZco17I_jBhJCeoEuP7UXwPCe2fhXGYXwYuT0YCMmtkD1NijTD5PJxcxbumwAtjqrYPi0Ij_8vF4UX99PkPuFbT3yDs5KWZKpVO2nQ3GPVKxAvkV56K1qPKyZC6q55/s1600/DSC00886.JPG" height="260" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">The impressive mural of Kandawgyi Lake at Yangon International Airport</td></tr>
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The first night's stay was at the suitably posh Belmond Governor's Residence, a 1920s-era teak mansion in Yangon's Embassy District which has been restored and converted to a 49-room hotel spread out over the property's grounds. It was quite nice, though my own preferences tend to run towards more conventionally modern places. However, the room was spacious and comfortable, and the common area garden was very pleasant. The hotel hosted a cocktail reception there that evening at which I was able to meet some other guests who would be going on the cruise. As the ship and hotel are both run by the same company, staying at the Governor's Residence at least offered a pretty seamless experience. We had the unexpected treat of being served local wine. That's right, Myanmar wine. And as an added treat, it didn't even suck! Trust me, most "wines" attempted in the tropics are a train wreck. There are a couple of iterations in Bali that, at least when I sampled them some years ago, pushed me right into the arms of the frosty-cold local beers instead. But the Myanmar efforts are leagues better. We had a lovely Sauvignon Blanc and a blended red of Cabernet Sauvignon and Dornfelder, a German varietal. The red was pretty good, but I'd like to taste it after a bit of cellaring. That night, we enjoyed a delicious "curry table" buffet spread, comprising nearly all local dishes, presented in clay pots over traditional charcoal burners. Burmese curries tend to be dry, and the range of salads and curries on offer was really a great introduction to the local cuisine, particularly when paired with local wines and beers.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYYXL1sqstVynTSVjKNd6idvRXKrgTPfwe-pbPH3HfFSvsJ4abidkbEcrg3AVf8YHfFdIb5Mt8LOQH2K_AdIMGJTmqWi3XL8tn8X-L98bW_u3nOjeEEcEP1PqAOK7_LVKCytZzc4Zef5Ct/s1600/DSC_7460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYYXL1sqstVynTSVjKNd6idvRXKrgTPfwe-pbPH3HfFSvsJ4abidkbEcrg3AVf8YHfFdIb5Mt8LOQH2K_AdIMGJTmqWi3XL8tn8X-L98bW_u3nOjeEEcEP1PqAOK7_LVKCytZzc4Zef5Ct/s1600/DSC_7460.JPG" height="268" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Teak floors and furnishings and a very comfy bed!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Fresh fruit and the sitting area in my room at the<br />
Belmond Governor's Residence</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">The pool and main building at the hotel</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Ready for leisure!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">This is the Aythaya 2014 Sauvignon<br />
Blanc – good enough for me to bring a<br />
bottle back with me!</td></tr>
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After a nice soak in the enormous terrazzo bathtub in my room, I caught a bit of sleep, but had to wake up extremely early, I think around 4:45. We got our breakfasts bagged to go, then headed for the airport to catch our 7am flight to Mandalay, Myanmar's second-largest city and its last royal capital, a city considered to be the heart of Burmese culture. Once we arrived at the airport, we ended up "donating" our breakfasts to children who were panhandling for money, but seemed quite thrilled to get the bags of food instead, and scampered off with them. Whether they ate the food themselves or sold it is something I'll never know, but we had backup breakfasts waiting for us in the lounge upstairs, though we only had perhaps 15 minutes or so to eat. While we did that, the TVs were all showing the breaking news of the awful Germanwings air crash in the French Alps, with live aerial footage of the catastrophic wreckage strewn over the mountainside, and of course at that time no clear idea of why the crash had occurred. It's <i>exactly </i>what you want to see when you're about to board a twin-engine prop plane in a third-world country only three years removed from the rule of a crushing military regime. Nevertheless, our capably piloted ATR-72 got us there safely in about 90 minutes, if that. And the service was better than on most American carriers, I must say. We got a boxed meal (that's the third breakfast of the day, for those of you counting), friendly flight attendants (three of them, no less, in a plane that seats only 72 and was not fully filled), and a choice of juices. Oh, and a nice little moist towelette. Go figure.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">On board the Asian Wings ATR-72 to Mandalay</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">On the ground at Mandalay International Airport</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Leaving the terminal... those threatening-looking morning rain clouds<br />
were all bark and no bite, fortunately</td></tr>
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We had been advised that the Irrawaddy River was experiencing, in some areas, its lowest water levels in 43 years, so our rather large cruise ship was unable to sail all the way upriver to Mandalay, and was instead moored quite a distance away. Indeed, some 35 other ships had gotten themselves grounded on sandbars in nearby parts of the river where the water was less than two feet deep. So we were given the option of an overland "tour" by bus, which would take hours, or a combination bus tour and voyage on a smaller river cruiser to rendezvous with our ship, which would take hours. There were only about a dozen or so of us on the bus in total, but we unanimously chose the latter. So we did some touring around Mandalay first during the morning, which was really good, then had a nice lunch at the relatively posh Sedona hotel in the city. The initial plan had been for us to have a half-day tour of Mandalay and then board the cruise ship and eat lunch there, but that was not to be. Though the meal at the Sedona was pretty good, after the cruise, I can say without a doubt that eating on the ship would have been better.<br />
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Before lunch, however, we had already seen a number of things with our guide leading us around from place to place. Interestingly, though Wikipedia hems and haws over the etymology of the name "Mandalay," saying the origin of the word is unclear, our Burmese guide had no such reservations, telling us the name was derived from a word meaning "center." And indeed, Mandalay is geographically right in the center of Myanmar.<br />
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We did so many things on the trip overall that I actually had to sort all my many photos by timestamps and use those to jog my memory as to what happened when! In Mandalay, one of the first things we saw was the world's oldest and longest teak bridge, perhaps a bit of a reach for a superlative, but still a pretty scenic little place. The U Bein Bridge is a footbridge that's 1.2km in length (about 3/4 of a mile) crossing Taungthaman Lake near Amarapura, another former Burmese capital not far from Mandalay. Named for the mayor who had it built ("U" is an honorific in Burmese), the U Bein bridge was built from reclaimed teak wood salvaged from the former royal palace of the Ava Kingdom. Some 1,086 pillars are were put in place during the bridge's construction from 1849 to 1851. Unsurprisingly, it's a popular stop nowadays on the tourist trail, mostly on day trips from Mandalay.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6hIrwgXd0QnqmqQPq5bnFBlgEbV5nkTcb__VbtWtxsnabtUDgwqMzFUt2Yf8A749R1UISkal1JI6qwrmHhO4hL_5s2WfeuCSqIKVKt_CHKt-cOl9MGhpS33M0TxUzmZL7tDcBMeKw2NsU/s1600/DSC_7511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6hIrwgXd0QnqmqQPq5bnFBlgEbV5nkTcb__VbtWtxsnabtUDgwqMzFUt2Yf8A749R1UISkal1JI6qwrmHhO4hL_5s2WfeuCSqIKVKt_CHKt-cOl9MGhpS33M0TxUzmZL7tDcBMeKw2NsU/s1600/DSC_7511.JPG" height="225" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Colorful local boats with the U Bein Bridge in the background</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOK7CWgh5v6gzBu7fdPUyZZv76IzYaUnFYTq1f-RlrLno4K4YDQeooj5SGdRMmvM5nx55LB9AZ4qqIjLPEwtCqLW1u_XB4MEy8RfXa_mzeyPs56QOUBjHU7o7yuy5DDniH2jcL2_FKSfCs/s1600/DSC_7521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOK7CWgh5v6gzBu7fdPUyZZv76IzYaUnFYTq1f-RlrLno4K4YDQeooj5SGdRMmvM5nx55LB9AZ4qqIjLPEwtCqLW1u_XB4MEy8RfXa_mzeyPs56QOUBjHU7o7yuy5DDniH2jcL2_FKSfCs/s1600/DSC_7521.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="268" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Boats tied up at Lake Taungthaman</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF26D4Jf2viaCMMfLXFdm4DwqC0Ost8fyo47dJVL0J-TuHmsgmW-RDZ54Xht4IDtG73Mcxa4rHybpA39j29shwRwvYIxWf8x4JWd7-P1oC8j_lrv2Fa9JVVbHTC_LzoxWBRS1w6eZvXb1z/s1600/U_Bein_Bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF26D4Jf2viaCMMfLXFdm4DwqC0Ost8fyo47dJVL0J-TuHmsgmW-RDZ54Xht4IDtG73Mcxa4rHybpA39j29shwRwvYIxWf8x4JWd7-P1oC8j_lrv2Fa9JVVbHTC_LzoxWBRS1w6eZvXb1z/s1600/U_Bein_Bridge.jpg" height="298" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">U Bein Bridge, purportedly the world's longest teak wood bridge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ekgqdnKON6Gu5JlCgew53LFw0QIGNMyuNoiBuFERAoWAdOGAVmwW60JVK1IkQ5ei_TeDsjDh5pV3jOjktUC8V59MIC3mJYndVGzoDAK-eleu3ne5oMsP8dC4XpqJu5DQyw-zUdDBRd9C/s1600/DSC_7522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ekgqdnKON6Gu5JlCgew53LFw0QIGNMyuNoiBuFERAoWAdOGAVmwW60JVK1IkQ5ei_TeDsjDh5pV3jOjktUC8V59MIC3mJYndVGzoDAK-eleu3ne5oMsP8dC4XpqJu5DQyw-zUdDBRd9C/s1600/DSC_7522.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Another shot of those eye-catching boats on the shore</td></tr>
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Following that, we paid a visit to a local village and went to a silk weaving shop. Though weaving shops are by no means unique or remotely new, seeing one in action was still fascinating, not least because there were no automated machines – everything was being made by hand and on traditional equipment. It was remarkable to watch these women at their foot-treadle looms, methodically weaving garments using a pattern and a brilliant array of colored silk threads, the flying shuttle rocketing back and forth across the countless strands of silk, interweaving them with a perpendicular thread. I really know less than nothing about silk weaving, so for me, it was just a blizzard of unfamiliar sights and sounds. Even a cursory bit of research showed me that a floor loom is a confusingly complex piece of machinery, and what I saw in use in Amarapura are considered the dinosaurs of the textile industry. The foot-treadle, flying-shuttle floor loom has long been replaced in modern industry by fully automated and powered devices. It was a treat to see these elegant garments still being made by hand.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY6sN4BG1-jXlh51rGQ7dP4ni4EbjUoSDofxLUubXh5-44N615ZeQaHHBSsiSpJnyR6MdqYEh657LmzLrUNPYZcPe1VWuj4ARNG3syuwrYoekyTR8GMUVCOZUzwS43ksEbCTRXZ94rxiGe/s1600/DSC_7568.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY6sN4BG1-jXlh51rGQ7dP4ni4EbjUoSDofxLUubXh5-44N615ZeQaHHBSsiSpJnyR6MdqYEh657LmzLrUNPYZcPe1VWuj4ARNG3syuwrYoekyTR8GMUVCOZUzwS43ksEbCTRXZ94rxiGe/s1600/DSC_7568.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="255" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">A small village of Amarapura. Note the<br />
conspicuous absence of litter – several<br />
members of our group picked up on this, both<br />
in the villages and towns, and along the<br />
Irrawaddy River as well.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNAVeuZ_9uz5PlQPjWFkKwyPYf_H2UqIyXqsWIdA4Kth2y_3FnzNYeK5SkfNn9GklO4tJ8EpDJTls9u3cjKACThHOwA-N1L2fwDFj1iYlGLJP83Dndxgrj2k6nbw-KxWi5C6_40z1OnGQ-/s1600/DSC_7547.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNAVeuZ_9uz5PlQPjWFkKwyPYf_H2UqIyXqsWIdA4Kth2y_3FnzNYeK5SkfNn9GklO4tJ8EpDJTls9u3cjKACThHOwA-N1L2fwDFj1iYlGLJP83Dndxgrj2k6nbw-KxWi5C6_40z1OnGQ-/s1600/DSC_7547.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Setting the threads on the loom</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC6hgUIM2ZVdopiJp4qjLJHen1D9L3gERAwhjsx9zvcMC7U6vO_tNLHtUAZEYQA-ey9yRFWuQkGNPfkV37XDV6dKx8gEWL9AhlJsv2mpzKaCN_pHYbcngkITF0lZVsV6A5EGITEG2x-o62/s1600/DSC_7554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC6hgUIM2ZVdopiJp4qjLJHen1D9L3gERAwhjsx9zvcMC7U6vO_tNLHtUAZEYQA-ey9yRFWuQkGNPfkV37XDV6dKx8gEWL9AhlJsv2mpzKaCN_pHYbcngkITF0lZVsV6A5EGITEG2x-o62/s1600/DSC_7554.JPG" height="275" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">I had no idea what this contraption did, but I snapped a picture anyway</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoTXNQipJaSFcvGj0VTEkMvtV_WKnTaO6juP8gRo9jSk13u6vqbaPLRHW0uYimdGqY0d_KpBG0iyOdmBbiZn-TyBTfJ-tUaZ_8qGrH9SBNXu-LEv4SonUMHmNuAja5MKISeeBvvwGxp9VR/s1600/DSC_7557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoTXNQipJaSFcvGj0VTEkMvtV_WKnTaO6juP8gRo9jSk13u6vqbaPLRHW0uYimdGqY0d_KpBG0iyOdmBbiZn-TyBTfJ-tUaZ_8qGrH9SBNXu-LEv4SonUMHmNuAja5MKISeeBvvwGxp9VR/s1600/DSC_7557.JPG" height="267" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">One of the few men in the factory, again doing things that were a<br />
mystery to me... but he had that wheel flying!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUbuEJp8E2lQKmmuZIGGC9nUhiB1-gt6i0o7OsGlO5UMgBUHMIbcwz7V1tFRLFU5oI9xeYIybElbO0BpAXreDPNX2LslsdZIyk3Y_JVm4kg_47U9VxsntXDjLc9GM7PhWbi8NYp7lY3zFs/s1600/DSC_7561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUbuEJp8E2lQKmmuZIGGC9nUhiB1-gt6i0o7OsGlO5UMgBUHMIbcwz7V1tFRLFU5oI9xeYIybElbO0BpAXreDPNX2LslsdZIyk3Y_JVm4kg_47U9VxsntXDjLc9GM7PhWbi8NYp7lY3zFs/s1600/DSC_7561.JPG" height="267" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">The complexity of the patterns was amazing</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmCVT-sZ7vYoItXiur3QPt9IJFp4Ld7WW-SG8bNDyPsn5Lb_rtthIfPv-6MxU7rEUInVAe1f-DujAV2LSiITTkVtgM6flIR7lTlmD6PTH7-Qvet0CdofFu7Hqto_KMcSZgdCqmTfP9rWeB/s1600/DSC_7563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmCVT-sZ7vYoItXiur3QPt9IJFp4Ld7WW-SG8bNDyPsn5Lb_rtthIfPv-6MxU7rEUInVAe1f-DujAV2LSiITTkVtgM6flIR7lTlmD6PTH7-Qvet0CdofFu7Hqto_KMcSZgdCqmTfP9rWeB/s1600/DSC_7563.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Count the threads!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH9eUpYARThCbLmDfASRPLrEy36ScHArOAMDchvbyqwP7hdgHQ1Ylyy0oTdrh2OQIN1bSMKIH7apa1U28VBsMwWCOyMh_6bU1xUArFyEdJ33L3i7iOw8mfemSUGxxyw6x4Sp0Qc07We3Et/s1600/DSC_7566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH9eUpYARThCbLmDfASRPLrEy36ScHArOAMDchvbyqwP7hdgHQ1Ylyy0oTdrh2OQIN1bSMKIH7apa1U28VBsMwWCOyMh_6bU1xUArFyEdJ33L3i7iOw8mfemSUGxxyw6x4Sp0Qc07We3Et/s1600/DSC_7566.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Spools of silk and metallic threads on a loom</td></tr>
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Next up was a visit to the highly venerated Mahamuni Temple, founded in 1785. It was the first of many, many times taking off my shoes and socks, as these are not permitted in any temple, monastery, or pagoda. (If you visit Myanmar, do yourself a favor and take a pair of sturdy, comfortable slip-on shoes. Even good flip-flops will do.) The nearly four-meter statue of the Mahamuni Buddha was cast in bronze and reportedly weighs over six tons. Each morning, a monk ritually washes the face and "brushes the teeth" of the Buddha, and it cannot be denied that this is a pretty impressive place. However, no women are permitted to enter the temple; curiously enough, we were told this blatant sexism is not a religious edict, but rather just a cultural custom. It's unfortunate for ladies, because this is a very important temple in the Buddhist religion, and a major place of pilgrimage. For male devotees, one of the customs here is pressing a little square of gold leaf onto the large Mahamuni Buddha statue here, covering every surface except for the face. Over time, the application of innumerable gold leaf squares has coated the statue with a significant thickness of gold, believed to range from two to six inches thick. In 1884, the pagoda burned to the ground, and after the fire, over 200 pounds of gold was recovered from the site. One can only estimate how much gold has accumulated on the statue since the subsequent reopening.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4K6Nh_0yJiIOlI8Dq9dwryq4go6UxDULlaT3JrjHI24O-5JI9yLVwzPsYrGAyHVr_HwFdVBpP5AwxPOiG7vMwPfM4Nba8JDp921oc_MbhWxGrcEW0yOcXPdoKz0OTES4F51GtSeaJAQc8/s1600/DSC_7578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4K6Nh_0yJiIOlI8Dq9dwryq4go6UxDULlaT3JrjHI24O-5JI9yLVwzPsYrGAyHVr_HwFdVBpP5AwxPOiG7vMwPfM4Nba8JDp921oc_MbhWxGrcEW0yOcXPdoKz0OTES4F51GtSeaJAQc8/s1600/DSC_7578.JPG" height="212" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">English? Almost. Hand-lettered? Completely.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwQ3sciEYzseTXjjNbXHURHyudXRpg98nUD_2zB-AVOw0aTNtaTZoi40XDySRFJRTQF9nF83-hN8xD_pRqReugLoNxaNE0rhyphenhyphenMT4fV_ElkEO9t3Zgg5RNIbNX9YBGRSp7SoNlBKWIvptYN/s1600/Buddha_00007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwQ3sciEYzseTXjjNbXHURHyudXRpg98nUD_2zB-AVOw0aTNtaTZoi40XDySRFJRTQF9nF83-hN8xD_pRqReugLoNxaNE0rhyphenhyphenMT4fV_ElkEO9t3Zgg5RNIbNX9YBGRSp7SoNlBKWIvptYN/s1600/Buddha_00007.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">The grand Mahamuni Buddha image</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjzQMN3zJTTDeJihu75wipH11w9XMzr1NKrLAF3L1WEFNUOEEpCLLLdUrGopiJsI764krFEtJagWjPGAOKmf8Lk1tarP-sAHIxGQ5leNviDpytbIwOhFc_ETTFNtmlYeFABC6dUZwu7E83/s1600/Mahamuni_Image.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjzQMN3zJTTDeJihu75wipH11w9XMzr1NKrLAF3L1WEFNUOEEpCLLLdUrGopiJsI764krFEtJagWjPGAOKmf8Lk1tarP-sAHIxGQ5leNviDpytbIwOhFc_ETTFNtmlYeFABC6dUZwu7E83/s1600/Mahamuni_Image.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Gold, gold, and more gold.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4HrJOlFAYixkLzVXZac0eOqQ1AuhJZzxSX-qZTr0BIL8ZD77eYrra4zzfQhgwXEGpMNGg6BZNsZoJXm_Ta6oGAgG0dO5CUbhRMCdQ22T8P4y9FayBb_BFVLrE8rArvUkGs-c_KDayfYCS/s1600/DSC_7601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4HrJOlFAYixkLzVXZac0eOqQ1AuhJZzxSX-qZTr0BIL8ZD77eYrra4zzfQhgwXEGpMNGg6BZNsZoJXm_Ta6oGAgG0dO5CUbhRMCdQ22T8P4y9FayBb_BFVLrE8rArvUkGs-c_KDayfYCS/s1600/DSC_7601.JPG" height="215" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">"You must have a Y chromosome to proceed beyond this<br />
point. But on the bright side, you can stand outside and<br />
hold your man's shoes while you wait for him."<br />
And if you think <i>this </i>is rather sexist, just wait<br />
until you see the metal detectors in the next entry.</td></tr>
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We also got to see a procession here called the novitiation ceremony, a colorful tradition of Theraveda Buddhism in which a boy under the age of 20 is ordained as a monk, so that he may embrace the legacy of the Buddha and learn his teachings, and to determine whether or not he is called to this religious life. A boy may become such a novice on multiple occasions, and there's always great pomp and festivity (and expense) associated with each novitiation. Like many things on this trip, this was a privileged glimpse into a completely alien aspect of the human experience, something to which I had never been even remotely exposed.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTkQ5_aa6DJeTUVHhGWOdQVK9DFm3UsP_cudVt9kViOp8oZeKywl54QD-9PZiGKhQWq-SiU9z0Z1qZHZ7IytF2hjQyzObseEQnrmZ77UUMQZ2fETu9bYM9NRUbCs1rzlqdIYRO_IDCC7ah/s1600/DSC_7588.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTkQ5_aa6DJeTUVHhGWOdQVK9DFm3UsP_cudVt9kViOp8oZeKywl54QD-9PZiGKhQWq-SiU9z0Z1qZHZ7IytF2hjQyzObseEQnrmZ77UUMQZ2fETu9bYM9NRUbCs1rzlqdIYRO_IDCC7ah/s1600/DSC_7588.JPG" height="312" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">The novitiation ceremony draws a sizable crowd of family and friends</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaV2TJgVPH8pYYF15WMFeoSg-3HwclvM4fI8tRUpGAZjpDY-65tzmVSeaKoYzjeF9ChLvvRf-pLagkMJOkLJQoJzJI4lCEcZMLBeKNCNSCQereiRQGNZ3D4Ox7DdJtcwyi7OJIO_5X3_4P/s1600/DSC_8226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaV2TJgVPH8pYYF15WMFeoSg-3HwclvM4fI8tRUpGAZjpDY-65tzmVSeaKoYzjeF9ChLvvRf-pLagkMJOkLJQoJzJI4lCEcZMLBeKNCNSCQereiRQGNZ3D4Ox7DdJtcwyi7OJIO_5X3_4P/s1600/DSC_8226.JPG" height="291" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Friends and well-wishers comprise the procession behind the boys</td></tr>
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We then went to a goldbeating workshop. The young guys pounding the tiny bits of 22-karat gold into two-inch squares of gold leaf need never visit a gym, I reckon. Each worker spends basically the whole of a six-hour shift almost endlessly pounding gold bits encased in layers of parchment on a leather-wrapped block with a pair of 8- and 15-pound hammers (used in different stages of the process), a technique that I discovered has endured relatively unchanged, save a few minor innovations, since its advent 5,000 years ago by the Egyptians. It looked like exhausting work. We didn't spend much time there before moving on. After that, we visited the Shwenandaw Monastery, a grand teak structure built in 1880 by King Thibaw Min. Adorned with intricate carvings of Buddhist myths, the monastery is fairly well-preserved, though virtually all of the original exterior gilding has worn off over the years. Inside, however, there was still an appreciable amount of gilding remaining on the soaring columns and detailed ceilings high above.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0JlXI-cYmz6ELAq5KqraXSyIS8kDBU3ywwMljV-g4WGOyAKKjy2ll-ZLVvidjNJxvRwNm7kYj8DnqvgXU0GYTlV3HsDJ5idbpUp77rbSxapUIkPuh5jo1kj7xfb9qkkkWemXgZllAL99K/s1600/DSC_7628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0JlXI-cYmz6ELAq5KqraXSyIS8kDBU3ywwMljV-g4WGOyAKKjy2ll-ZLVvidjNJxvRwNm7kYj8DnqvgXU0GYTlV3HsDJ5idbpUp77rbSxapUIkPuh5jo1kj7xfb9qkkkWemXgZllAL99K/s1600/DSC_7628.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Beating the gold. Note the little yellow bowl in<br />
the lower right. It works as a timer: the small<br />
"float" in the water has a hole in it; when it<br />
fills with water and sinks, the worker<br />
knows it's time to rotate the block.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6GiVwz_dvCnLUxhetPri2-tZq2rNlRH8C_uEGAX8-oP0UP7JgwkBBs_yUd_V6PUNbBdNNFkS0EepKkjrfU0K_YzHOSEW3J125cDukbFJh-l2IJ_yl4jbvv2EBZgO4VoN4hl7nVDundKuG/s1600/Shwenandaw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6GiVwz_dvCnLUxhetPri2-tZq2rNlRH8C_uEGAX8-oP0UP7JgwkBBs_yUd_V6PUNbBdNNFkS0EepKkjrfU0K_YzHOSEW3J125cDukbFJh-l2IJ_yl4jbvv2EBZgO4VoN4hl7nVDundKuG/s1600/Shwenandaw.jpg" height="316" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">The palatial Shwenadaw Monastery</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjneQP1pvDTELLrTKdo6azjXVl9G6uqglKTkh0jz5cPQD92tBx28cDz3NmoCfxD5eJ2rfsCybz6z2Bh8IrUppElkZLdvF-1Zr1BLrRFABpIQL1-naxSmyG3zLZh3tMEh3ms5CouGxweNTxY/s1600/DSC_7640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjneQP1pvDTELLrTKdo6azjXVl9G6uqglKTkh0jz5cPQD92tBx28cDz3NmoCfxD5eJ2rfsCybz6z2Bh8IrUppElkZLdvF-1Zr1BLrRFABpIQL1-naxSmyG3zLZh3tMEh3ms5CouGxweNTxY/s1600/DSC_7640.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="295" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Intricate carvings adorn virtually every surface</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5nHNDk93zp7Nv3lAmIthjorG9q73iKMTTZKrHcxccOGp34nEARrxz1wAdNzjG1dJd7Fzx3ZMdVJITegB031JoC6KkMIm4Od9K6fQjseuJART68knJ4dMpmHyiZRGRNo_1JAxhT2a45OG-/s1600/DSC_7646.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5nHNDk93zp7Nv3lAmIthjorG9q73iKMTTZKrHcxccOGp34nEARrxz1wAdNzjG1dJd7Fzx3ZMdVJITegB031JoC6KkMIm4Od9K6fQjseuJART68knJ4dMpmHyiZRGRNo_1JAxhT2a45OG-/s1600/DSC_7646.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="271" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Inside the monastery</td></tr>
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Now, by this time, I was starting to get a bit "tour tired," so I can say that the next stop was something I appreciate more in retrospect than I did during the actual experience, though there were a few pretty cool moments at the time, too. We visited the Kuthodaw Pagoda, which is home to the world's largest book. Despite what the name suggests, however, it's not just one really big book (as we think of books), but rather a large series of marble tablets, 730 of them to be exact. Each tablet is 3.5 feet wide, 5 feet tall, and about 5 inches thick, and has been inscribed in 80 to 100 lines of Burmese script on both sides, for a total of 1,460 pages, comprising the text of the <i>Tipitaka –</i> the entire Pali Canon of Theraveda Buddhism. Monks carefully edited the text, scribes meticulously copied the text onto the marble slabs (each slab's text, front and back, took about three days to copy), and stonemasons then chiseled out the script, completing about 16 lines a day. Each tablet is housed in its own little cave-type pagoda called <i>kyauksa gu</i>, which means "stone inscription cave" in Burmese. The work took nearly eight years from start to finish (October 1860 to May 1868) and represents a staggering collective effort. Initially, the chiseled script was filled in with gold ink, but much of that has disappeared, some eroding over time, much falling prey to looting by the British following their annexation of Mandalay in 1885. These 730 pagodas (729 comprising the <i>Tipitaka</i>, plus one detailing how it was all accomplished) are arranged in neat rows around a central golden pagoda, Kuthodaw. We also saw what appeared to be a photo session, perhaps for an impending wedding, taking place. The color and adornment of the garments worn by the couple are truly amazing.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg00dPsiUjR20sNu2CAVfX85EXaiW_WWUMbxryC5-o5uHb1DCZl-8_IlHiVWsttLlzXL1vBDF6KE2nPPiil4To64qXFAZXtHwfU1S32YR9M85jUm-zsFrHS7Wa6JpoRT23fFSdbxlR_QrEb/s1600/DSC_7653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg00dPsiUjR20sNu2CAVfX85EXaiW_WWUMbxryC5-o5uHb1DCZl-8_IlHiVWsttLlzXL1vBDF6KE2nPPiil4To64qXFAZXtHwfU1S32YR9M85jUm-zsFrHS7Wa6JpoRT23fFSdbxlR_QrEb/s1600/DSC_7653.JPG" height="267" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Kuthodaw Pagoda, resplendent in the late morning sun</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiquFIqc2gq0IEW4V3yXheM9Gy8K_A4xQLpkHxyFy9eqOF7vgI8vzemjc60Y7bQWyueJErPOPOXRRRcFtB0Na3UiDpCfm3pE6TYHbDLjO62En6emI7sQlDEXe4qiPikOfiKWeR1pL4so0Q_/s1600/DSC_7662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiquFIqc2gq0IEW4V3yXheM9Gy8K_A4xQLpkHxyFy9eqOF7vgI8vzemjc60Y7bQWyueJErPOPOXRRRcFtB0Na3UiDpCfm3pE6TYHbDLjO62En6emI7sQlDEXe4qiPikOfiKWeR1pL4so0Q_/s1600/DSC_7662.JPG" height="265" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Looking down the neatly arranged rows of <i>kyauksa gu</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcTXegidduOs3CKt5rrB3mvNEE35tuDF2D_ZtFSWU_jRBPwxAmp9Vp9MnaNOvJaL1GiortnryOaoFC9GfhJVsOGOoQJWMCIRIID9SSiDK_QuTTucDPQ8lTWqKXgUS2jupfd-GJQ7Vpekw/s1600/Kyauksa+Tablet.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcTXegidduOs3CKt5rrB3mvNEE35tuDF2D_ZtFSWU_jRBPwxAmp9Vp9MnaNOvJaL1GiortnryOaoFC9GfhJVsOGOoQJWMCIRIID9SSiDK_QuTTucDPQ8lTWqKXgUS2jupfd-GJQ7Vpekw/s1600/Kyauksa+Tablet.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">One "page" of a two-sided stone tablet, representing over<br />
a month's effort. There are 1,459 more like this one.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0xTNCeBi4NikneFOTe9-xydLrTF1hldHlsLGbp9o_CKdeQmH1UelgzQGXof6P6qfBTv7wMCTTj8F-oOjK4dR9Mm1j5l5LS9eSoo4YVLU4ef6cZjMmudrOj5gGhd5Y9AriNqGnCls8ttAg/s1600/Kuthodaw+Pagoda+-+satellite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0xTNCeBi4NikneFOTe9-xydLrTF1hldHlsLGbp9o_CKdeQmH1UelgzQGXof6P6qfBTv7wMCTTj8F-oOjK4dR9Mm1j5l5LS9eSoo4YVLU4ef6cZjMmudrOj5gGhd5Y9AriNqGnCls8ttAg/s1600/Kuthodaw+Pagoda+-+satellite.jpg" height="378" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">The Google Earth aerial view of the pagoda and surrounding area. The stones<br />
and their little caves are arranged in neat rows within three enclosures:<br />
42 in the innermost, 168 in the middle and 519 in the outermost.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoKvnBzJeyd4yHsbDur8w8PAhQ5LkGeQwxT-tUsEt4NrKniajYErVqV-2G3HSUBzxyWNyfmrM-Yt-BmLCGZHRcWazXD_8gNKlnRSGDJGfX0LhSR_MOrJomUajC7qQoImzSXbJ3y9KLLKWM/s1600/DSC_7661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoKvnBzJeyd4yHsbDur8w8PAhQ5LkGeQwxT-tUsEt4NrKniajYErVqV-2G3HSUBzxyWNyfmrM-Yt-BmLCGZHRcWazXD_8gNKlnRSGDJGfX0LhSR_MOrJomUajC7qQoImzSXbJ3y9KLLKWM/s1600/DSC_7661.JPG" height="256" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Perhaps a pre-wedding photoshoot? Three parasols, two cameras, seven<br />
pairs of bare feet, one beautifully dressed couple, and one stunning image.</td></tr>
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Finally, rather exhausted and bedraggled, we were taken to lunch, where we relaxed and ate a leisurely meal at the aforementioned Sedona hotel. Then, well-fed and somewhat refreshed, we made our way by bus to the jetty not far away, getting our first eyeful of the sprawling Irrawaddy River, and boarded a 100-foot river cruiser – which was reasonably comfortable, but by no means fancy – for a three-hour afternoon voyage down the Irrawaddy. On board, I chatted with other passengers, enjoyed the free flow of juices, beers, wines, and champagne. There may have been some light snacks, but I honestly cannot recall.<br />
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We watched the scenery steadily unfold before us as we cruised lazily downriver, taking in the passing snapshots of life on the riverbank. Women strolled to and fro doing their chores, baskets balanced effortlessly on their heads. Men steered longtail boats down the river – some doing the family's fishing, others bearing cargo for trade. Children played and splashed in the Irrawaddy's waters and ran eagerly along its banks. Farmers rode astride carts borne by two-abreast plowing oxen, tendrils of dust rising in the afternoon sun. It was a remarkable landscape and a peaceful, languid lifestyle: perhaps it would be seen as a pastoral throwback to a simpler time elsewhere, but here, it's nothing more than life as it has long been; seemingly a land in which time has forgotten to move forward. People were quick to smile and wave, particularly when they saw my camera trained in their general direction; this was emblematic of the general graciousness and friendliness of the Burmese we continued to encounter during our travels down the Irrawaddy River.<br />
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Eventually, we crossed under the grand Irrawaddy Bridge, over a mile long and newly opened in 2008, and not long after, as the sun was making its inexorable descent towards the horizon, caught our first glimpse of the luxurious ship to be our home for the next three nights, the 333-foot <i>Road to Mandalay</i>, named after the Rudyard Kipling poem written about the great Irrawaddy River. Enjoy the photographic journey. The next entry (<a href="http://chadinkl.blogspot.com/2015/04/cruise-myanmar-road-to-mandalay-part-2.html" target="_blank">click here</a> to read part 2) will cover the actual cruise and our riverside "ports of call"!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmDfRLVWnu7ljoQHujPc5cEsOEpgw8vXeh2kUnytFKMKca602vCbzy0i1uWh1AbAEeozMC2r-mBPXZIy3iPqqtPKCyhN6Ka2jRwPJikpM00vn3xVbK4OsFOtoMQZ0jC14CGq-lZrIuxlx6/s1600/DSC_7666.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmDfRLVWnu7ljoQHujPc5cEsOEpgw8vXeh2kUnytFKMKca602vCbzy0i1uWh1AbAEeozMC2r-mBPXZIy3iPqqtPKCyhN6Ka2jRwPJikpM00vn3xVbK4OsFOtoMQZ0jC14CGq-lZrIuxlx6/s1600/DSC_7666.JPG" height="248" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Drying laundry adds splashes of color as we make our way to the Irrawaddy<br />
to board our transfer boat for our three-hour journey downriver</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbAzLpMpbfPlwmlDmldvNUlN90ItCg1W_KTTeIcMOEMbEPfps4lpaGduvIn5We-CRR4fNYRZTNy8k36qkI65HTVz8aa6Em5l8HcBbHYTvV7Hm3CAEcIajW5gUFlMyTpdijJzDdj1HKgaWR/s1600/DSC_7690.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbAzLpMpbfPlwmlDmldvNUlN90ItCg1W_KTTeIcMOEMbEPfps4lpaGduvIn5We-CRR4fNYRZTNy8k36qkI65HTVz8aa6Em5l8HcBbHYTvV7Hm3CAEcIajW5gUFlMyTpdijJzDdj1HKgaWR/s1600/DSC_7690.JPG" height="208" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">A black-and-white rendering of a lone boat on the vast river with the<br />
fixed-arch Irrawaddy Bridge looming in the background</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDzGHDzVqCGzsnMYzzHtoBzZMJOzpTVNkY0HMMPauN39pFYcAQrNsLoseKLrg1uNC4MJJDjbf2LUlJZpczQaMybjF7BuPJ3ooa3n0BclQR42TT1gwW8RQhpWCRyw6v_FX4VMtz18IBZ5Be/s1600/DSC_7698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDzGHDzVqCGzsnMYzzHtoBzZMJOzpTVNkY0HMMPauN39pFYcAQrNsLoseKLrg1uNC4MJJDjbf2LUlJZpczQaMybjF7BuPJ3ooa3n0BclQR42TT1gwW8RQhpWCRyw6v_FX4VMtz18IBZ5Be/s1600/DSC_7698.JPG" height="300" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Not built to last: these bamboo dwellings must effectively be rebuilt<br />
by their occupants every 3-4 years on average</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFfEnlRNy6uHxxMtE_6gzNywg_f4qB6vLaCKLEgXtOqBC6EV9k1v1dYmtjidthtQzRZqj2h3fxxRwUt_mCIorQSbls1c3oCqhPyEuh_JzyvlR4Dx4YYnIzvkyHmKnRJAvuyZBAWARWfOBG/s1600/DSC_7706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFfEnlRNy6uHxxMtE_6gzNywg_f4qB6vLaCKLEgXtOqBC6EV9k1v1dYmtjidthtQzRZqj2h3fxxRwUt_mCIorQSbls1c3oCqhPyEuh_JzyvlR4Dx4YYnIzvkyHmKnRJAvuyZBAWARWfOBG/s1600/DSC_7706.JPG" height="246" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Passing under the four-lane Irrawaddy Bridge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_HYwRukR3DuY9X32pjSowwmEWhRwGdUoz9mNm-1qXdtTqfSJpvrFWeRxzvY37rjCnYP78ji_NxhwfEINnNHjGTrCufzkUtBr6_ykbtMnkfzUgwFVZ26epbbcO1z-FO34JeGODtp7UXBUm/s1600/DSC_7718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_HYwRukR3DuY9X32pjSowwmEWhRwGdUoz9mNm-1qXdtTqfSJpvrFWeRxzvY37rjCnYP78ji_NxhwfEINnNHjGTrCufzkUtBr6_ykbtMnkfzUgwFVZ26epbbcO1z-FO34JeGODtp7UXBUm/s1600/DSC_7718.JPG" height="247" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">A bucolic scene of riverside farmland</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjesqj5fdUYwHw1ATkc6SiFuTDJYOdNfxVNadiXWELYKtql1ZlBxulPqcDIuqG6W01yRDVcMnouc8tH-5BAzwweyR6pneoHn3R2PrZ48mxDPuDgslcI-ptyFKI7e5iKOQEpIdy2wt-i316_/s1600/DSC_7723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjesqj5fdUYwHw1ATkc6SiFuTDJYOdNfxVNadiXWELYKtql1ZlBxulPqcDIuqG6W01yRDVcMnouc8tH-5BAzwweyR6pneoHn3R2PrZ48mxDPuDgslcI-ptyFKI7e5iKOQEpIdy2wt-i316_/s1600/DSC_7723.JPG" height="256" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Burmese villagers returning home in the afternoon's waning hours</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJpJarKHqaIRjm4DzvTvchYuNsZ47T27mIJyo339shkEEEKN1vd6NRZ5Kgvraj2sh_RZqIDQTaI9wS1j9z1hDkqUc9Y-8CRiQTENAWcr7rjLLSzDCgM2yD3BS90jQTi4O9qXinPcRcDqR-/s1600/DSC_7737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJpJarKHqaIRjm4DzvTvchYuNsZ47T27mIJyo339shkEEEKN1vd6NRZ5Kgvraj2sh_RZqIDQTaI9wS1j9z1hDkqUc9Y-8CRiQTENAWcr7rjLLSzDCgM2yD3BS90jQTi4O9qXinPcRcDqR-/s1600/DSC_7737.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="283" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">By around 4:30 pm, the sun was sinking ever<br />
closer to the horizon</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7a70qeampm63GTPd18m4G3hyB2jUKrKQGFFLla0VNaEYjceHvzbIaCpSIbvhbRD-8H9Ln-b8L8OVJqqGj2cDVSTYJvwzIXkBq4iJOI4fk4VNZTOlGi0sn8GIqaWQPSgX3i8077jOQ_MS/s1600/DSC_7743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7a70qeampm63GTPd18m4G3hyB2jUKrKQGFFLla0VNaEYjceHvzbIaCpSIbvhbRD-8H9Ln-b8L8OVJqqGj2cDVSTYJvwzIXkBq4iJOI4fk4VNZTOlGi0sn8GIqaWQPSgX3i8077jOQ_MS/s1600/DSC_7743.JPG" height="277" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Beasts of burden: a pair of oxen pulling a loaded cart. You can see where<br />
the Irrawaddy has unceremoniously claimed shoreline; it's not uncommon<br />
for people living at the river's edge to periodically relocate their homes or<br />
even entire settlements to allow the Irrawaddy an ever-wider berth</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYMQrVQkginLK6E-fQkVVy0h7ct8Gs2U2Dj_e-TWY4J26k-xaQkB5vYwz0QixG00kbrhClp0SpVFT1m1zOtZbx68oHoXAjrIIs_jbDgNhWTW9gfEa5B891URQsZ7WAnvIg0u6c4wGw73Ha/s1600/DSC_7748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYMQrVQkginLK6E-fQkVVy0h7ct8Gs2U2Dj_e-TWY4J26k-xaQkB5vYwz0QixG00kbrhClp0SpVFT1m1zOtZbx68oHoXAjrIIs_jbDgNhWTW9gfEa5B891URQsZ7WAnvIg0u6c4wGw73Ha/s1600/DSC_7748.JPG" height="251" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Life on the river</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieDbkFVjsJeN33PxINPqmqjSBYbPdo1B5-m9FK2d1fPbe7rIOLrF84OGNh3TZ8bAjvebJMYN-tRlqk607PzVsuCd5cLzGOmi-VAK3W7QtyHkaVa6Yc8SR8JMM3BdcPenB_mUQ_SbtJnoAC/s1600/DSC_7753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieDbkFVjsJeN33PxINPqmqjSBYbPdo1B5-m9FK2d1fPbe7rIOLrF84OGNh3TZ8bAjvebJMYN-tRlqk607PzVsuCd5cLzGOmi-VAK3W7QtyHkaVa6Yc8SR8JMM3BdcPenB_mUQ_SbtJnoAC/s1600/DSC_7753.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Another one of those lovely riverbank scenes with<br />
mankind living and working in harmony with<br />
animals and nature</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 6px; text-align: center; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCkPsIi7x36V7n3Bgl9VPf5BDyA_yrvdZMdRqMWpxrGhyphenhyphen8LVNIL79eT7guZrGRc013fvJ8pus2eSLnkpP_6kGrkeiEtU-SSxMB0yLQs4Jf89YVuK6D7Ww0_2MCYn1YfkJ0plUOoml57FWy/s1600/DSC_7755.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCkPsIi7x36V7n3Bgl9VPf5BDyA_yrvdZMdRqMWpxrGhyphenhyphen8LVNIL79eT7guZrGRc013fvJ8pus2eSLnkpP_6kGrkeiEtU-SSxMB0yLQs4Jf89YVuK6D7Ww0_2MCYn1YfkJ0plUOoml57FWy/s1600/DSC_7755.JPG" height="301" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">No smoking allowed: this straw house would easily go up in a great fireball,<br />
but at least the cart-borne solar panel and TV aerial (!!) would remain.<br />
Note the makeshift steps carved into the hillside.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmBWPQ0kdjJEIScYo6Ee1xRTIwAYNVKldjaaZmFbjES2SW2G8gTjm2B2-rE_lBjBVl4woX1_NDIxDiMViIhsz8-MSu3ZQH6gv1A8RD7HG-F5yQbU8X2PUz2sJE54-n80SUMit0uieaPG5z/s1600/DSC_7763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmBWPQ0kdjJEIScYo6Ee1xRTIwAYNVKldjaaZmFbjES2SW2G8gTjm2B2-rE_lBjBVl4woX1_NDIxDiMViIhsz8-MSu3ZQH6gv1A8RD7HG-F5yQbU8X2PUz2sJE54-n80SUMit0uieaPG5z/s1600/DSC_7763.JPG" height="281" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">A nice shot of a local family at the river's edge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHUfM1CWMzUjzztGJhkVb_rIH5K6iknVQf8eiI1NjW4tyajaqHy-N3vNVdvgK69wAs2U53d1bj8HVvN33bnExCS1-zQKWMHxpj_CKGj-mWwiFXuzspZ_BsWnUEY7BTeFt3YYH3jhPavR3O/s1600/DSC_7771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHUfM1CWMzUjzztGJhkVb_rIH5K6iknVQf8eiI1NjW4tyajaqHy-N3vNVdvgK69wAs2U53d1bj8HVvN33bnExCS1-zQKWMHxpj_CKGj-mWwiFXuzspZ_BsWnUEY7BTeFt3YYH3jhPavR3O/s1600/DSC_7771.JPG" height="250" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">A blaze of golden sunlight carpets the Irrawaddy as a longtail boat<br />
putters steadily downriver, striving to reach its destination before sunset</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSKNPX1AxiIUojIMim2LY9Dbkyie4hyphenhyphenBQ2pFTmzh8CnrPkQLYiAYCMg2pHUWUKmZ2tZ8zk8llMzuQA9aQxtPv7kBdvZ_36Y1o6_6RC-CPgOovSbMSW1loeyFSRUhyphenhyphenGsWdZ68-7v8T6emem/s1600/DSC_7784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSKNPX1AxiIUojIMim2LY9Dbkyie4hyphenhyphenBQ2pFTmzh8CnrPkQLYiAYCMg2pHUWUKmZ2tZ8zk8llMzuQA9aQxtPv7kBdvZ_36Y1o6_6RC-CPgOovSbMSW1loeyFSRUhyphenhyphenGsWdZ68-7v8T6emem/s1600/DSC_7784.JPG" height="251" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Irrawaddy Ferry Service: My guess on this one is that the motorcycle rider<br />
"chartered" a lift on the longtail boat to get from one village to another</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbyc3F-ZgNaH7YFSOBgxYrGKiHXNA8LP3D2aZYgTRc7on8gQDoxD0pkobBWNw44F-Te1yR8Nm_04UozcaEqLH1uiiBO-BHP0umd7nG-vMwsi9_wvTAiE0FwygN-bQRNDgX1FOaEsXwfZwp/s1600/DSC_7791.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbyc3F-ZgNaH7YFSOBgxYrGKiHXNA8LP3D2aZYgTRc7on8gQDoxD0pkobBWNw44F-Te1yR8Nm_04UozcaEqLH1uiiBO-BHP0umd7nG-vMwsi9_wvTAiE0FwygN-bQRNDgX1FOaEsXwfZwp/s1600/DSC_7791.JPG" height="257" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">At around 5:30 pm, as the first hues of the impending sunset's pink and<br />
orange began to tease the low-lying clouds near the horizon, we arrived<br />
at our cruise ship, Belmond's <i>Road to Mandalay,</i> indeed<br />
a welcome – and welcoming – sight for sore eyes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-68349181990206384262014-10-01T03:42:00.001-06:002014-10-02T13:47:07.962-06:00Amanbloggo: Amanpulo Resort and My First Philippines Trip<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzgmrV1G-yfRKl3Tuzd0jig7fMZ_vhyphenhypheny2Sp9jCwFwk97H-imBd78RRrGRtc0R081u1iPOMCcqy5UAYEPJWL-xwr6AUXHj8KaZsiBx8mdEmJ5pHCbbajdOI29T2351xn0v1B5jsPuobqWVM/s1600/CIMG0104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzgmrV1G-yfRKl3Tuzd0jig7fMZ_vhyphenhypheny2Sp9jCwFwk97H-imBd78RRrGRtc0R081u1iPOMCcqy5UAYEPJWL-xwr6AUXHj8KaZsiBx8mdEmJ5pHCbbajdOI29T2351xn0v1B5jsPuobqWVM/s1600/CIMG0104.jpg" height="400" width="377" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No enhancement here: this is really just how it looked</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">One of the nice things about living in the
tropics is the relatively easy access I have to places that were considered
quite exotic and idyllic when I lived in America. (Of course, it’s fair to say
visiting a place with snow on the ground is considered just as exotic to those
who have grown up in the tropics.) The jewel-like islands of places like the
Maldives, Indonesia, and the Philippines are all but a short flight away, and
even more far-flung locales like the Seychelles don’t take an inordinately long
time to reach. But honestly, with some of the world’s most spectacular islands
in the region, there’s never much reason to spend a long time on a plane when
living in Malaysia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I recently took my first trip to the
Philippines, an archipelago of 7,107 islands, which is still only good enough
for second place in Southeast Asia, with Indonesia’s count far eclipsing that
number. Nonetheless though, I was excited to add another new stamp to my
passport. The plan was to take a red-eye flight to Manila, where I’d stay for a
few hours before heading south on a private chartered plane to a tiny island in
the middle of the Sulu Sea for a few days of R&R. Well, you know what they
say about the best-laid plans…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Turns out that about the time my flight was
set to depart, Manila was being manhandled by one of the dozen or so typhoons
that lashes the Philippines every year. For all the lack of natural calamities
Malaysia is blessed with, the poor Philippines makes up for it – volcanoes,
tsunamis, earthquakes, typhoons, you name it. So significant swaths of metro
Manila were inundated with typhoon floodwaters, so my flight was delayed not
one hour, not two hours, but five hours. My flight that was already scheduled
to take off at the ungodly hour of 1:20 am didn’t leave the ground until 6:15
the next morning, so I spent a miserable night languishing in the ridiculously and
needlessly vast KLIA2 – the new low-cost carrier terminal that’s just insanely
overlarge. If you ever catch a flight there, wear comfortable shoes, that’s my
advice, because you will be doing a lot of walking.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">So I of course totally missed my 7:00 am
flight to Pamalican Island, but there was an early afternoon flight, as well,
so they rebooked me on that one. I was staying at a resort called Amanpulo, and
anyone familiar with the Aman group of resorts knows that exemplary service is
their hallmark. I didn’t have to expend any effort at all – they followed my
delayed flight from KL, sorted everything, sent the driver (in a Mercedes
hybrid sedan, no less) to await me at the Manila airport, then whisked me away
to their private lounge where I had already been rebooked on the 1:00 flight to
the island. So I chilled out in the lounge for a while, enjoyed drinks and
snacks, and then boarded the 18-seat Dornier 228 turboprop and left right on
time bound for Amanpulo, a 70-minute flight south from Manila.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtULhR8dGDwFq2bQyjkFUpHN4amVQRkw9UQdHqAtLYaYXxHwnPXcgPKclgfx_RF_ttZzNqtZcLapZrUiJXHYIkN2ZhbSBS6jD96A_w1Nic2LlLkLEdPUCi9_OG-GZhTed4n-4P29IqYoRA/s1600/DSC_6157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtULhR8dGDwFq2bQyjkFUpHN4amVQRkw9UQdHqAtLYaYXxHwnPXcgPKclgfx_RF_ttZzNqtZcLapZrUiJXHYIkN2ZhbSBS6jD96A_w1Nic2LlLkLEdPUCi9_OG-GZhTed4n-4P29IqYoRA/s1600/DSC_6157.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tagged and ready to go!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisQfeiy_rQ5V0ro-AeFaUFh54yeuaChDUt0J0SGC4rNWLRPvfHgFn5AASDBuSYZwTtyTxEflIKB2b3y3rPZcya5DbBiFBI5WTNPyVw_JojKznfptKfRwiLfD5eTngx1nQSNvVYmks5i2wk/s1600/DSC_6153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisQfeiy_rQ5V0ro-AeFaUFh54yeuaChDUt0J0SGC4rNWLRPvfHgFn5AASDBuSYZwTtyTxEflIKB2b3y3rPZcya5DbBiFBI5WTNPyVw_JojKznfptKfRwiLfD5eTngx1nQSNvVYmks5i2wk/s1600/DSC_6153.jpg" height="189" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rather squarish Dornier 228 – our private charter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAr16LVj2WCb8Wn34wjOtpBLteE0oyRZVRyiC1hTsy6HITcBrneSfygKsRde954K7bNH42IbxXtbILmmM9ICjS-unDaIJQA7lFtDoMfcms5SqbHyfNbbV1GFxVidBKqk5PDXx9gEJqe0Jx/s1600/DSC_6161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAr16LVj2WCb8Wn34wjOtpBLteE0oyRZVRyiC1hTsy6HITcBrneSfygKsRde954K7bNH42IbxXtbILmmM9ICjS-unDaIJQA7lFtDoMfcms5SqbHyfNbbV1GFxVidBKqk5PDXx9gEJqe0Jx/s1600/DSC_6161.jpg" height="190" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flying over a colorful hodge-podge of ramshackle homes<br />
in metro Manila</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNKm5cookP9y2eF0Ayi36u5ctTyYwa3gLmgZQpWzyGm6TU4ISDe83QytgQ0aD3nX5WlkE5uKE-S9SfduskYBwB7mMNz9xNbZN73vonJ8UkVdH9zmsaoZFSoW-MIYIJ6sjNE0Nwlp4L6K5z/s1600/DSC_6164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNKm5cookP9y2eF0Ayi36u5ctTyYwa3gLmgZQpWzyGm6TU4ISDe83QytgQ0aD3nX5WlkE5uKE-S9SfduskYBwB7mMNz9xNbZN73vonJ8UkVdH9zmsaoZFSoW-MIYIJ6sjNE0Nwlp4L6K5z/s1600/DSC_6164.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next-best thing to being in<br />
the cockpit itself</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_FdYbgF_1brUe2Qsv9-2jf3pv3U2iRpYeQm2vrV8VVblqzCjx0hpXKT80S97yK-CEfvNtmWIAmnVq3x9JS0TsqGo0TAbuha8XCZPQKQXWtUPWvLVjMNRs3vBZEnEHQBLJUtUuFA0uhtm/s1600/DSC_6169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_FdYbgF_1brUe2Qsv9-2jf3pv3U2iRpYeQm2vrV8VVblqzCjx0hpXKT80S97yK-CEfvNtmWIAmnVq3x9JS0TsqGo0TAbuha8XCZPQKQXWtUPWvLVjMNRs3vBZEnEHQBLJUtUuFA0uhtm/s1600/DSC_6169.jpg" height="195" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I just thought this was a cool snapshot with the village<br />
going right up to the edge of the cliff on an island<br />
south of Manila</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was really quite cool onboard the small
plane – I sat up front to get a closer look at the cockpit. As this was a
private chartered flight, there was of course no cockpit door or anything like
that. It was fascinating watching the pilots do their thing, taking us up to
only about 10,000 feet or so (as the cabin was not pressurized). We flew over
azure waters and mountainous islands and since we weren’t so terribly high, I
could still make out plenty of details – villages, waterfalls, fishing boats
plying the coastal waters. And before long, Pamalican appeared in the distance,
unmistakable as I had seen the photos from the resort. A small, narrow island
only 500m across at its widest point, with exceptionally clear, shallow waters
ringing the land, mostly notably to the north of the island.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Following a textbook landing, we exited the
small plane onto the private airstrip, each of the disembarking guests getting
festooned with a fragrant jasmine flower lei. I was greeted by my personal
“guest assistant” as they’re called, and we zipped off on a little golf cart to
have a short tour of the tiny island and its myriad facilities.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQRpxYJFgTg-GhRsDGBNzypIUq1RXBl3TfpnIEgt-Tq0u4ODNEhGxhfEQlcR7BzBi8hTJjLq7eDKtQEu9XPCLdsJuVM9Rp6O4PuAf_AyDmJIYxbLrwiSbSa-SgLFlCS-yt-xpmsronhBpG/s1600/RS1096_Amanpulo+-+Aerial+View.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQRpxYJFgTg-GhRsDGBNzypIUq1RXBl3TfpnIEgt-Tq0u4ODNEhGxhfEQlcR7BzBi8hTJjLq7eDKtQEu9XPCLdsJuVM9Rp6O4PuAf_AyDmJIYxbLrwiSbSa-SgLFlCS-yt-xpmsronhBpG/s1600/RS1096_Amanpulo+-+Aerial+View.jpg" height="202" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aerial view of Pamalican Island<br />
Photo courtesy of Amanpulo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTnQJxDQYLs0SCHwcCyqzRbwhSAh0mC6m-hMa0pm-MarC_h4gmMpPKBrTBEbOipNg9ZeB5i1ICQZn0brDAacrPJFNYTaM-qcJB6olBmY2SAVC3GDmPrs2BE3XogE2Y85eykL0T_DP3ziRT/s1600/RS132_Amanpulo+-+Swimming+Pool+Night.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTnQJxDQYLs0SCHwcCyqzRbwhSAh0mC6m-hMa0pm-MarC_h4gmMpPKBrTBEbOipNg9ZeB5i1ICQZn0brDAacrPJFNYTaM-qcJB6olBmY2SAVC3GDmPrs2BE3XogE2Y85eykL0T_DP3ziRT/s1600/RS132_Amanpulo+-+Swimming+Pool+Night.jpg" height="190" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The main clubhouse and pool in early evening; though this isn't<br />
my photo, it looked a lot like this on that first evening... the weather got<br />
better and better with each passing day<br />
Photo courtesy of Amanpulo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEBmTgNFrCHhnAlBXb-s4Wgso1X_gZx9FOrfgc-CSEw7YN6k-9MPfu34QUtrWi-4FT5_0-N4F3zdp4oMtzi1ZLFwP751hbH9i3fE1kTsJpgrv-FCyXVs30UJwJs909JIkJs2rCH9J6KUjm/s1600/20140930_083426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEBmTgNFrCHhnAlBXb-s4Wgso1X_gZx9FOrfgc-CSEw7YN6k-9MPfu34QUtrWi-4FT5_0-N4F3zdp4oMtzi1ZLFwP751hbH9i3fE1kTsJpgrv-FCyXVs30UJwJs909JIkJs2rCH9J6KUjm/s1600/20140930_083426.jpg" height="297" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here's the island... just 500m across at its widest point!<br />
My <i>casita </i>was #23, just by the picnic grove</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One really cool thing about Amanpulo is that
each of the rooms – a private house called a <i>casita</i> – comes with its own “Club Car” golf cart, a little electric-powered
buggy whose “roof” is a giant solar panel to assist in charging the battery. I
asked for a regular bicycle, too, and it was delivered to my <i>casita</i> promptly. It was so nice having
my own on-demand transport to go anywhere or just to take and explore the
island. Usually, even at posh resorts, you have little choice but to either
walk or call reception and ask for a buggy to come fetch you. This was a great
change of pace.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQKsqormbd4mwUyuAxs0wT8PssQxGcMaGDIQYF88oNN4hElVxcKJZO5bArHg1oT82jHbwy__9bGYjXumkFAM_PRVphYMSzy355LonFqq_jlGp5h4sq6Pf5GXKG1yH1VhNqNRPlSyxkB0ub/s1600/DSC_6182.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQKsqormbd4mwUyuAxs0wT8PssQxGcMaGDIQYF88oNN4hElVxcKJZO5bArHg1oT82jHbwy__9bGYjXumkFAM_PRVphYMSzy355LonFqq_jlGp5h4sq6Pf5GXKG1yH1VhNqNRPlSyxkB0ub/s1600/DSC_6182.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refined minimalist quality at <i>Casita</i> 23!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB7Tv4J3aM8Q28o3NlgA0Bja2UKlxGekvcu5Tdm-xb1sseyd20bZQ8Xmw7fK10AcfztKHYywOl6AkHuJplV47IMSxUm2N-LXdh_Hnj5GJ_qGtu8QmkwPHiaY1YbMXq_QR5LHUvS6L0DxH-/s1600/DSC_6183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB7Tv4J3aM8Q28o3NlgA0Bja2UKlxGekvcu5Tdm-xb1sseyd20bZQ8Xmw7fK10AcfztKHYywOl6AkHuJplV47IMSxUm2N-LXdh_Hnj5GJ_qGtu8QmkwPHiaY1YbMXq_QR5LHUvS6L0DxH-/s1600/DSC_6183.jpg" height="320" width="224" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My welcome goodies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKED1ha7OngUqXbYWBU580XbnAvFoYDhsrq7iYAe6tsQlkNwRXOp7oMe_tAuE90zf47TeTAZLUO5pI0BluWGpGtfnaZZV5APmdEMDftom78KEvrCLT2835Hw87v96l629P4Z0T4SFVsBN5/s1600/DSC_6187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKED1ha7OngUqXbYWBU580XbnAvFoYDhsrq7iYAe6tsQlkNwRXOp7oMe_tAuE90zf47TeTAZLUO5pI0BluWGpGtfnaZZV5APmdEMDftom78KEvrCLT2835Hw87v96l629P4Z0T4SFVsBN5/s1600/DSC_6187.jpg" height="320" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just a small part of the gorgeous<br />
bathroom; I availed myself the use<br />
of the soaking tub several times</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyRYjCxtdrPT9GMEiXmnhL6JvKwAcb0lVhxcQb7Snb0UprcTylsXOby0wenscMTzwST-bsdWJ7TaP7vgNYEpX3COWFru1TiMmXHt1syLnzIsqHMLSeZkOe2lDkMq46p9X6M8QZFNBtFRYn/s1600/DSC_6192.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyRYjCxtdrPT9GMEiXmnhL6JvKwAcb0lVhxcQb7Snb0UprcTylsXOby0wenscMTzwST-bsdWJ7TaP7vgNYEpX3COWFru1TiMmXHt1syLnzIsqHMLSeZkOe2lDkMq46p9X6M8QZFNBtFRYn/s1600/DSC_6192.jpg" height="248" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was the view from my <i>casita</i> on that first day...<br />
a bit overcast, but still beautiful</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbDVjWchHaRnEqKZpZ3x2zvX77DRmP6Fd1WgxK9J8LFSq8glDzsEB_WQ9awjIIFiJd68arC8ilZsjfT8CBBncM2oUOQiQbzXF_yE8w-mWbwilUou77t3sBYhTuom6Ix4t2yXh8QSsqVwXe/s1600/DSC_6195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbDVjWchHaRnEqKZpZ3x2zvX77DRmP6Fd1WgxK9J8LFSq8glDzsEB_WQ9awjIIFiJd68arC8ilZsjfT8CBBncM2oUOQiQbzXF_yE8w-mWbwilUou77t3sBYhTuom6Ix4t2yXh8QSsqVwXe/s1600/DSC_6195.jpg" height="320" width="222" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My bike and buggy... I'm sure I need<br />
hardly mention which got used more</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And the room, of course, was typical Aman:
understated luxury, perfectly executed. Nothing was over-the-top, everything
was just nice. I was right on the beach, with a suitably stunning view of the
turquoise seas fronted by soft, sugary white sand. Only a tidal influx of
seaweed ceaselessly washing ashore kept the scenery from being an absolute
postcard.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIVj8zfPFn6ol5H6O8MFHlTVrOywFaDcEYjI8zBM2Lux4w5jGWNmekh93AwDxgdn1TLe1JM0oE5M4be0e5X86niQT-mWsmmAazrrdhKSJZWHQLAxByojRGkRmPKf1r8clCMgKmHFTEVoxv/s1600/CIMG0090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIVj8zfPFn6ol5H6O8MFHlTVrOywFaDcEYjI8zBM2Lux4w5jGWNmekh93AwDxgdn1TLe1JM0oE5M4be0e5X86niQT-mWsmmAazrrdhKSJZWHQLAxByojRGkRmPKf1r8clCMgKmHFTEVoxv/s1600/CIMG0090.jpg" height="320" width="242" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hobie cats on the beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Usually I take a friend along on trips like
this, but this time, I felt I just needed a solitary escape. Relaxing, reading
a book or two, chilling out to some tunes, swimming in the sea… that’s what
sounded appealing to me on an island retreat, so that’s pretty much what I did.
I spent most of my days lazing on the bed, on the sunlounger, snorkeling,
splashing around in the ridiculously clear ocean, reading, soaking in the big
bathtub, and just trying to unwind a bit. The first day was mostly cloudy, but
each day got progressively sunnier, and by the third day, I managed to get
fairly cooked while out on the reef snorkeling. I had rather half-heartedly
applied a thin coat of sunscreen before leaving my <i>casita</i>, but didn’t bother with my back (a good reason to bring
someone along, perhaps?) and that’s exactly what got broiled with less than
half an hour’s direct exposure. Yikes. I’m peeling like a sad red onion as I
write this blog entry, but it wasn’t really a super bad sunburn... certainly
glad I rolled back over when I did, though. Another 10-15 minutes and I think
my back would have been seriously scorched.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Predictably, I had scheduled my deep tissue
massage service at the spa for that same evening, so the fresh sunburn on my
back rather kept the experience from being as enjoyable as it may have
otherwise been, but honestly, as it was a fairly therapeutic massage to begin
with (as opposed to a strictly relaxing one), it might never have been all that
blissful in any case. That said, the massage really was quite good and
mysteriously did away with some persistent soreness in my lower back and legs,
so go figure. One of those “cruel to be kind” experiences, I suppose.
Surprisingly, given the frankly exorbitant cost of flying to and staying at
Amanpulo, their signature massage service is pretty reasonable, particularly
given the skill of the therapists and the absolute top-notch quality of the spa
facilities. You’d pay as much or more in any number of Las Vegas hotel spas and
get a less satisfactory, and considerably less personalized, experience, so
that was a pretty pleasant surprise.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was out and about one afternoon with the
buggy and this great pterodactyl of a fruit bat took flight from one of the
trees overhead, presumably having had its sleep disturbed by the wind swaying the
tree. The beast, with a wingspan comfortably surpassing three feet, circled
lazily above me a couple of times and I seized my camera and fired off a few
shots. Later, on the ground, a more colorful, if considerably more diminutive,
island inhabitant – some sort of pigeon, I think – was scurrying about and
slowed his wandering just enough for me to grab an image. So I guess here on
Pamalican Island, the mammals fly and the birds waddle. There were also some
strikingly yellow and black birds, quite sizeable really, frequenting the trees
around my <i>casita</i>, but I was never
quite agile enough to get the camera and capture a shot. I got one, shown here,
that’s not going in any magazine soon, but at least somewhat blurrily shows the
strong coloration of this bird which, from what I can gather, is a black-naped
oriole.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-P4YwkMViZ4J-nxFBmqzeQcUFdhjSa07lutNNXV-OuB3zgOoS9SsPRo29VKpzgef1eQ1wG5j-RhjsRl0X8337xiCkrqGggl4pdyYt73X11hzab01xuPtiLdr2NAE3L_rNDgFrvwkZCUa/s1600/DSC_6199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-P4YwkMViZ4J-nxFBmqzeQcUFdhjSa07lutNNXV-OuB3zgOoS9SsPRo29VKpzgef1eQ1wG5j-RhjsRl0X8337xiCkrqGggl4pdyYt73X11hzab01xuPtiLdr2NAE3L_rNDgFrvwkZCUa/s1600/DSC_6199.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A giant bat takes to the air</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtx-LaouUAS09rHfeVwPuCq9GzKJiuA1CdruFA3EhH-vsGTpHOKl-dQyO-c-fiBVVsmSy1bHc_U1gWVjKP0930CLgfPEROlloI1NzuaqpmdztCQqT8ZoiEAUSFiCthkQl-qAjzkKirolyK/s1600/DSC_6205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtx-LaouUAS09rHfeVwPuCq9GzKJiuA1CdruFA3EhH-vsGTpHOKl-dQyO-c-fiBVVsmSy1bHc_U1gWVjKP0930CLgfPEROlloI1NzuaqpmdztCQqT8ZoiEAUSFiCthkQl-qAjzkKirolyK/s1600/DSC_6205.jpg" height="198" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from near the pier</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPavEGOr220GXkSmW1tYHlRma5MKoVbmkNeQ_ZBcVfgsj_c_ye32IT3Qqf6uBL_-w21GHsO6Q5k3bs7_2T-wg6LMHS6fTusiNMI3K2LqHDgM2B1zj6skLrx_VidgtnlqNmh5BqNRGsz91y/s1600/DSC_6215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPavEGOr220GXkSmW1tYHlRma5MKoVbmkNeQ_ZBcVfgsj_c_ye32IT3Qqf6uBL_-w21GHsO6Q5k3bs7_2T-wg6LMHS6fTusiNMI3K2LqHDgM2B1zj6skLrx_VidgtnlqNmh5BqNRGsz91y/s1600/DSC_6215.jpg" height="201" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A shallow tidal bay against a crescent beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipb8ZCZgJjn-mpowHqZ3eJ9u2pGEN7kdKRf5YBAu6Ndzdi9ak8Tivqg-c24bhsQ7i19EtDlmrjN0qZYc33YpI6TslExNOEDKpzxADaL-_UlLNDJEmromSR6ZfhqTYVmT16jjvbXPnJf-WC/s1600/DSC_6218.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipb8ZCZgJjn-mpowHqZ3eJ9u2pGEN7kdKRf5YBAu6Ndzdi9ak8Tivqg-c24bhsQ7i19EtDlmrjN0qZYc33YpI6TslExNOEDKpzxADaL-_UlLNDJEmromSR6ZfhqTYVmT16jjvbXPnJf-WC/s1600/DSC_6218.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Most of the "roads" on the island<br />
looked like this</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8hOiMfNeRxmqhouASBKcV2ppK2lZ6bRRNprmrQqaiWOqMKkcP0S9Q7pL_Wk7J-hxJBfNp4IFbZmmbd_9rMjxwmSK-WGA8OxmOxLLOwKbXnqNqtoym8ERBnA0W2CJ3_SwBycw7gXLw1BUO/s1600/DSC_6220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8hOiMfNeRxmqhouASBKcV2ppK2lZ6bRRNprmrQqaiWOqMKkcP0S9Q7pL_Wk7J-hxJBfNp4IFbZmmbd_9rMjxwmSK-WGA8OxmOxLLOwKbXnqNqtoym8ERBnA0W2CJ3_SwBycw7gXLw1BUO/s1600/DSC_6220.jpg" height="242" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A colorful pigeon being camera-shy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihAIoOwJ5eprP6ylvPa0GqhKVqup5kB35sm_gadvQzJENm-H6BrrWvjqjkCdL00N3Ogv1SZqC6VNs9RyDOFTAuzUQmhscXMbxZQZn7YKAQEssYZpUNLVoiJjJIPKg01HoULukLvesoKbsg/s1600/DSC_6235.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihAIoOwJ5eprP6ylvPa0GqhKVqup5kB35sm_gadvQzJENm-H6BrrWvjqjkCdL00N3Ogv1SZqC6VNs9RyDOFTAuzUQmhscXMbxZQZn7YKAQEssYZpUNLVoiJjJIPKg01HoULukLvesoKbsg/s1600/DSC_6235.jpg" height="274" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A poor shot of a beautiful oriole</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqFtx7Y1s_7rTN3c_vQpoIEN0RBurVh2tnaXucNCCb8_XdwZi66zNDF2TYVlvhubfbitLhSjktY_uoBiovXXIs9mNRWlByaqr1Dlko8Kw1FZHjLgwNhS8sGaIMzYiYMaYyO6as4kavg1xM/s1600/DSC_6222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqFtx7Y1s_7rTN3c_vQpoIEN0RBurVh2tnaXucNCCb8_XdwZi66zNDF2TYVlvhubfbitLhSjktY_uoBiovXXIs9mNRWlByaqr1Dlko8Kw1FZHjLgwNhS8sGaIMzYiYMaYyO6as4kavg1xM/s1600/DSC_6222.jpg" height="207" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down the beach from my little patch of sand</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSaKLGAcZlm8kef4hK3-bMOPefT1rAW7Qa_c_ZRjhwkJnq0YvUn6zMMp9Fw9qq_xMuAZafLvD2QrEJW-u7SCHNfLH4NuGD9o4XkiAuwXV5BpclG6YRPH6TjARE4twld63odGXJ8waYStXK/s1600/DSC_6228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSaKLGAcZlm8kef4hK3-bMOPefT1rAW7Qa_c_ZRjhwkJnq0YvUn6zMMp9Fw9qq_xMuAZafLvD2QrEJW-u7SCHNfLH4NuGD9o4XkiAuwXV5BpclG6YRPH6TjARE4twld63odGXJ8waYStXK/s1600/DSC_6228.jpg" height="240" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By day three, the weather had improved and along with it,<br />
the view from my <i>casita</i>'s deck</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_anRvwkNr87vhFx3XkrQUgYw9n_GA6ZYufFq4xedpt6uFLUI29Z6JZBwBRjLKrsYtY0XlZWHcP6QwOoWQ6jW1g_KjEx2tSm94Obv3NBkbV9v66sOzUx4GGSRffkeqRpgk-1-FgBG1dOJO/s1600/DSC_6236.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_anRvwkNr87vhFx3XkrQUgYw9n_GA6ZYufFq4xedpt6uFLUI29Z6JZBwBRjLKrsYtY0XlZWHcP6QwOoWQ6jW1g_KjEx2tSm94Obv3NBkbV9v66sOzUx4GGSRffkeqRpgk-1-FgBG1dOJO/s1600/DSC_6236.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day's end</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9EL3ljwIjVOeE9x7WWhoTd56nTlLZ2xeTGN6TTq-TkxO0IGo5Q4GVR8CrjWC4aoOX1GGjAuAmAq4f1uZUGlE4QIWgkMhsoClCCadPCnj-iL4C1jyTPxnP9zszhTgIjNDQf6TGSlmSfxjM/s1600/DSC_6239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9EL3ljwIjVOeE9x7WWhoTd56nTlLZ2xeTGN6TTq-TkxO0IGo5Q4GVR8CrjWC4aoOX1GGjAuAmAq4f1uZUGlE4QIWgkMhsoClCCadPCnj-iL4C1jyTPxnP9zszhTgIjNDQf6TGSlmSfxjM/s1600/DSC_6239.jpg" height="400" width="281" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After two days of drab evening skies and no<br />
sunset to speak of, there was finally a nice one<br />
on day three</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCfqlDyktJFDCK-zJwZyaBqj06diDRcRbgE2PSHQk4ZMQlXVgFu1paT7RxhbzughuAm1Br_A9rVp22NHHxOv5DhYoTlBZIugwFg4o73bqXV4heb9hw64KAKXgs64kgbSAv-TjPkdOshurM/s1600/DSC_6237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCfqlDyktJFDCK-zJwZyaBqj06diDRcRbgE2PSHQk4ZMQlXVgFu1paT7RxhbzughuAm1Br_A9rVp22NHHxOv5DhYoTlBZIugwFg4o73bqXV4heb9hw64KAKXgs64kgbSAv-TjPkdOshurM/s1600/DSC_6237.jpg" height="242" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The clouds on the horizon provided a strong contrast against the<br />
sun-dappled ocean below</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On a tangent here, I must say that Amanpulo gets just
about everything right, but on one count, they have fallen victim to one of the
most insidious infestations to worm its way into high-end hotels and resorts
around the world: the nefarious capsule coffee machine, in this case, a
Nespresso. I hate these things. Absolutely, unquestionably hate them. First of
all, whatever these machines make is going to, by definition, suck. There is
simply no way to duplicate a cup of properly brewed, quality coffee by mixing
hot water with some sort of capsulated concentrate. There’s a reason you see
devices like these in precisely NO proper cafés. No coffee connoisseur would
ever permit such a blasphemous contraption in his or her home, either. The
machines are also singularly wasteful, as you have to use one of these silly
foil capsules for every cup of coffee, and though the foil is presumably
recyclable, there’s an environmental cost of producing and packaging them that
far outstrips an equivalent bag of coffee beans.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguJyrQET6GRE7YLXPqdOHdZ-ljujvKaVTfoC8iGm-PfvhkgtsTeNDU1IxM-ZdC-llRssj6neBwD9Lphl0p-T7QHJCNJXpvvm1P3jRQj1KcjOtiWSc21niogtdeKZ30ztTf6aLnk2qtQrDO/s1600/DSC_6258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguJyrQET6GRE7YLXPqdOHdZ-ljujvKaVTfoC8iGm-PfvhkgtsTeNDU1IxM-ZdC-llRssj6neBwD9Lphl0p-T7QHJCNJXpvvm1P3jRQj1KcjOtiWSc21niogtdeKZ30ztTf6aLnk2qtQrDO/s1600/DSC_6258.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I hate you, little Nespresso!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">And of course, once you buy their stupid
machine, you’re beholden to it, having only one choice should you want coffee, which
is to buy their capsules. These things, even ordered online in bulk, are at
least $1 each, usually a bit more. These devices are the coffee equivalent of
the inkjet printer. But most irksome of all, they simply never work. Never. I
have used these stupid, evil little machines, of various brands, all of which
presume to be upmarket and chic, in over a dozen hotel and resort properties in
both Asia and Europe, and not once – not one single time – has one <i>ever</i> worked to plan. I remember a
particularly diabolical episode at a posh resort in Bali where the staff had to
actually replace the bloody device <i>three
times</i> to get to one that even remotely did what it was supposed to do. But
even under the best of circumstances, these stupid things just suck at
delivering on their most basic premise: providing a decent, hassle-free cup of
coffee. Point in case: I popped in a capsule, preheated the water, waited for
the blinking light to go steady, did everything I was supposed to do, then took
a great breath and pressed the “big cup” button. A horror show of noises
emerged from the contraption to announce that some coffee-like substance was on
the way, and sure enough, a stream of thick brown goo spurted into my cup
followed by a stream of hot water, filling what is by nobody’s definition a
large cup to begin with exactly one-quarter full. Like <i>always</i>! I hate these stupid machines! So I can either drink my
grand ounce of coffee and just live with it, or I can push the button again and
get another diluted stream of hot water/coffee capsule remnants. It usually
takes three times pressing the button to get the cup up to three-quarters full.
And after all that, guess what? It sucks. The resultant dreck is not even close
to what anyone would consider good coffee. A sachet of rubbishy instant Nescafe
would yield better results.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Now before anyone chides that it’s just
supposed to be an espresso-sized shot, then why have two different cup sizes?
Why stock the machine in a room with normal-sized coffee cups if the machine is
wholly incapable of filling them? So hear this, luxury hoteliers of the world,
I beg of you: resist the siren song of savvy marketers who would sell you these
ridiculous machines under the guise of providing your guests with a more
upscale, more enjoyable coffee experience. They’re crap. They’re wasteful, they
don’t work, they don’t produce real coffee, and they’re not even a
cost-effective choice for you, given the exorbitant price of those wasteful
little branded capsules that you’ll then be locked into buying. Most of your
guests, if polled, don’t want a tiny little cup of fake espresso, but would
prefer a proper cup of actual coffee more often than not. Put a quality
drip-brew coffee maker in the room, provide good coffee in little filter
pouches, and be done with it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizQebBdyxXn4uoeVzIMwxCbLzsLwEu05eWVcseSYQWAnMTp5y6RBAg9weRywQ2-U1zitLWvsQa69MEtCauznD-opdSpLA4jz0iRiQOQ9IKVFkfq-zSlacA-Z-ZrMS0ep1kNGdkm8xRHKCq/s1600/DSC_6268+(Large).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizQebBdyxXn4uoeVzIMwxCbLzsLwEu05eWVcseSYQWAnMTp5y6RBAg9weRywQ2-U1zitLWvsQa69MEtCauznD-opdSpLA4jz0iRiQOQ9IKVFkfq-zSlacA-Z-ZrMS0ep1kNGdkm8xRHKCq/s1600/DSC_6268+(Large).jpg" height="240" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Departing Pamalican Island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">So four days in this paradise of
peacefulness, the coffee machine saga notwithstanding, and then it was back to
the urban chaos of Manila. One fun thing I saw in my short time there was
something I learned is called a “jeepney,” a popular means of transport – both
public and private – in the Philippines. After WWII, American troops packed up
to return home, and hundreds of surplus Jeeps were cheaply sold or given
outright to the Filipino people, who over time customized the vehicles for
local use. Metal roofs were added, chassis were extended, bench seats were put
in to accommodate more passengers, and all manner of kitschy décor was added to
the vehicles, from giant Mercedes-Benz logos to Texas longhorns. The garish
colors and decorations of these jeepneys has now come to be a unique symbol of
Philippine culture, and the government now regulates their use. Today’s jeepneys
are also a mish-mash of surplus parts, mostly from Japan, but it seems unlikely,
of course, that any of the originals would still be in use.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I had enough of a layover in Manila to
venture out from the Amanpulo lounge, so I went to nearby Makati, one of the 16
cities that comprise metro Manila, and apparently a haven of business, shopping,
and entertainment. I didn’t have enough time to really explore much, but I did
stumble across a Wendy’s serving up actual bacon cheeseburgers, so I had to
indulge. They also had some other surprising meals on the menu… take a look.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitRxhFWA_UMp4PoID8MZXtZ4PxVqlefRYgUo7PaPW5bbBBXPKcT5yZK6E8ta3Q84QSUrJzeSBOU_GB33ZgBmD1rXfCQRY7mAfJsSJdmFZp75s-hU4mcuBsbDgFeSyGAvM4FTD-gzUZVzoD/s1600/DSC_6282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitRxhFWA_UMp4PoID8MZXtZ4PxVqlefRYgUo7PaPW5bbBBXPKcT5yZK6E8ta3Q84QSUrJzeSBOU_GB33ZgBmD1rXfCQRY7mAfJsSJdmFZp75s-hU4mcuBsbDgFeSyGAvM4FTD-gzUZVzoD/s1600/DSC_6282.jpg" height="200" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Always interesting to see other countries' interpretations of<br />
American fast food standards... this is a Wendy's in Manila</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4lpQX9fUfjB0_g2kYdXXhjLZxoO4Jqr57qpvCq2IvNT9YpTq5C9kGUMPdlePWzpH_u3iOk13cBqhgCXR7UWaPcXgoTNaSvx1-o76hMtO7drW2R63S0CclEv70e6oqTXLqL5zZxXBIQjNG/s1600/DSC_6283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4lpQX9fUfjB0_g2kYdXXhjLZxoO4Jqr57qpvCq2IvNT9YpTq5C9kGUMPdlePWzpH_u3iOk13cBqhgCXR7UWaPcXgoTNaSvx1-o76hMtO7drW2R63S0CclEv70e6oqTXLqL5zZxXBIQjNG/s1600/DSC_6283.jpg" height="261" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the Philippines, pork chops, Salisbury steaks, and spring rolls<br />
are regular fixtures on the menu at Wendy's!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVsjMWwhiNpZq8gWDmYw7DV6-hQE-4S1za37Yk6rbOETiEEFUYVu4TgUau-od_WNDj4ONDzpO8ryvA2yMK8C_Qp7IddktG21Q5w_ki8D9y6MyFIESx2jADaIXtpBGKwpkS_ZX4frADcawp/s1600/DSC_6295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVsjMWwhiNpZq8gWDmYw7DV6-hQE-4S1za37Yk6rbOETiEEFUYVu4TgUau-od_WNDj4ONDzpO8ryvA2yMK8C_Qp7IddktG21Q5w_ki8D9y6MyFIESx2jADaIXtpBGKwpkS_ZX4frADcawp/s1600/DSC_6295.jpg" height="161" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of many wildly colorful "jeepneys" plying the<br />
streets of Manila</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7g0lRkB_A1mdQeB90DKDbQEfXOsFQSdf1xrzREtU4weWPNrD5C3xsPFDXV6fL7zDqzePiiIPHLundZn3EJHsla2pVDXzYFR71vAX8NLh-2Dw7BvnzM_tqJLDSWkgJtYpWa8ov1kFexG4Y/s1600/DSC_6296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7g0lRkB_A1mdQeB90DKDbQEfXOsFQSdf1xrzREtU4weWPNrD5C3xsPFDXV6fL7zDqzePiiIPHLundZn3EJHsla2pVDXzYFR71vAX8NLh-2Dw7BvnzM_tqJLDSWkgJtYpWa8ov1kFexG4Y/s1600/DSC_6296.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hysterical... I wasn't sure whether to be impressed<br />
or mortified by these things</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Before long, I made my way back by cab (in
a veritable crush of higgledy-piggledy traffic – more jeepneys!) to the
comfortable Amanpulo lounge, where a driver was standing by to take me to the
main airport terminal. I was flying from the lamentable terminal 4, which is
about as dire an airport experience as you could hope for, even more dismal
than the old low-cost terminal here in KL. Fortunately, I didn’t have to
languish here for long – no epic flight delays this time around – and was soon
winging it back to KL.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg4jlr0qIOIDcwmZ23V2CZBQzKbVZaJ8EdlOgzaWgfWQNyJyq-q3pEBsZUvilQAfFVWJzMKRBP7fU8lmzpi3WOQSBgRpwfW554mypkFpRvBEWnm_OiH_mROp-Sq1SFLRL8sG6RoD0IG5H1/s1600/DSC_6299.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg4jlr0qIOIDcwmZ23V2CZBQzKbVZaJ8EdlOgzaWgfWQNyJyq-q3pEBsZUvilQAfFVWJzMKRBP7fU8lmzpi3WOQSBgRpwfW554mypkFpRvBEWnm_OiH_mROp-Sq1SFLRL8sG6RoD0IG5H1/s1600/DSC_6299.jpg" height="198" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Despair at Terminal 4</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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All in all, a nice introduction to the
Philippines, but being ensconced on a tiny private island isn’t really anything
that paints a remotely accurate picture of the country, and I didn’t stay in
Manila long enough to experience much more than a traffic jam and a
cheeseburger. So perhaps I’ll go again another time and check out Cebu or
Boracay or this place called El Nido, which isn’t too far from Pamalican
Island, but a bit less posh and exclusive.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDZTq3UkBNRaRcEHAmZfOWJBcyyNvoopTW9iDvLtGi6tesE9HwBX_sWxW2SOIHRoykknnsOaDFU4XnXa0CfhJUxD57kbZcDSsawwjDmXInCEGT2Of4vp4n0rjP1-G1yF7Edt4BUJLvIp_9/s1600/DSC_6261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDZTq3UkBNRaRcEHAmZfOWJBcyyNvoopTW9iDvLtGi6tesE9HwBX_sWxW2SOIHRoykknnsOaDFU4XnXa0CfhJUxD57kbZcDSsawwjDmXInCEGT2Of4vp4n0rjP1-G1yF7Edt4BUJLvIp_9/s1600/DSC_6261.jpg" height="216" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from shore on my final day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6JKDsR9VBA_Kdaf083HrI6sY0RgQ0rV24qN4d5pHy9sI3PEaphWlKQlMCeGjQgHoOF3srHR0BDpTleB9RRts3P9_H-Ou3rw7kC6YoeiVmE4KJwabuQ1TCk98nZxbSVBjHkQ2sKDH8VeGw/s1600/DSC_6262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6JKDsR9VBA_Kdaf083HrI6sY0RgQ0rV24qN4d5pHy9sI3PEaphWlKQlMCeGjQgHoOF3srHR0BDpTleB9RRts3P9_H-Ou3rw7kC6YoeiVmE4KJwabuQ1TCk98nZxbSVBjHkQ2sKDH8VeGw/s1600/DSC_6262.jpg" height="232" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A thin slice of R&R paradise on this tiny Philippine island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-2881792383608931112014-07-31T21:16:00.001-06:002014-08-05T22:37:45.080-06:00New Zealand, part 2 of 2<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
So when we left off, I had just finished up with the overnight cruise on Milford Sound and taken the bus back to Queenstown, since my scenic flight was cancelled on account of too many clouds.<br />
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWpjCQK36a4nGnL9MJZvYT8aqfKbSA4fHWCq_gaL1ut-tiovK4vDUnBLz_AzEGzWaTpKdLU-GQTjCvsVNIBkB0jgPiroOJh3BQjYItnlbUD4JF6w0tu2BXHs3BKxbvtB6IJzmSwnQVSIy/s1600/DSC_5026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWpjCQK36a4nGnL9MJZvYT8aqfKbSA4fHWCq_gaL1ut-tiovK4vDUnBLz_AzEGzWaTpKdLU-GQTjCvsVNIBkB0jgPiroOJh3BQjYItnlbUD4JF6w0tu2BXHs3BKxbvtB6IJzmSwnQVSIy/s1600/DSC_5026.jpg" height="245" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Looking northward along the beautiful Lake Wakatipu<br />
on the trip back to Queenstown from Milford Sound<br />
<div>
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</tbody></table>
<br />We got back to Queenstown obviously much later in the day than had
been expected in the original itinerary (which called for a 45-minute flight
rather than a six-hour bus odyssey), so I scrambled to squeeze in another
activity in the waning daylight, a zip trek adventure up on the mountainside that was just a
short walk from the hotel I was staying in. I took the Skyline Gondola on a scenic 900-meter climb up Mt. Ngongotaha to the Rotorua "adventure complex" at the top, which features seriously hardcore mountain biking, luge, bungee jumping, a sky swing, and ziplining. Though the ziplining experience itself was
enjoyable, and the company, Ziptrek Ecotours, incredibly admirable for its
stance on sustainability and preservation, I think this would have been a lot
more enjoyable had the scenery been better. As it was, we were ziplining
through swaths of largely denuded pine forest, as most of the lower boughs of
the trees were quite free of foliage – and moreover, the soaring Douglas Firs that we sped
through aren't even native, but rather had long ago been introduced from North
America. Anyway, the experience of ziplining (sometimes called "flying
fox") was fun, though honestly, I should have left my Nikon and the giant
zoom lens in the hotel room. I was so fearful the thing would end up bonking me
in the head, I was reluctant to get too crazy on the upside-down ziplining
(though I <i>did </i>do it somewhat inadvertently once), and my futile efforts to get
a good shot probably prevented me from getting the full enjoyment out of the experience. The final line (it was a four-line "trek") was the
longest and the views, finally, were great, as the large clearing afforded a terrific view of Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu.<span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ2InINpoXegJiLJ8oS66ydVBXkHSosBcUrrKE7_AkNQPvzzf-wTNrQquUDCs4sAM-oc0JjGqEmkKKhqOpQJwYxYT-SNY7cB1WIo-cN_m5B-kHzO0IZmibephhjypmgug09uyLn4MfcMmx/s1600/DSC_5046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ2InINpoXegJiLJ8oS66ydVBXkHSosBcUrrKE7_AkNQPvzzf-wTNrQquUDCs4sAM-oc0JjGqEmkKKhqOpQJwYxYT-SNY7cB1WIo-cN_m5B-kHzO0IZmibephhjypmgug09uyLn4MfcMmx/s1600/DSC_5046.jpg" height="241" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down on Queenstown as I rode the Skyline Gondola up the<br />
mountain to do my ziplining; my hotel is at the lower right, just<br />
on the edge of the beautiful Queenstown Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgffF41cOs7lz93bLTZtxqJ_uxo2KLNOdeZySAT2MDqb8_E9q2UZxbdyE_HCzIEKcOgnqKQnOrFkGxLNynbkoWCJsdTVHTnffzogakv7aL4NgFrT7QPt13HU01DX1sRC1s7mC6HvfzuT6k5/s1600/1279798610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgffF41cOs7lz93bLTZtxqJ_uxo2KLNOdeZySAT2MDqb8_E9q2UZxbdyE_HCzIEKcOgnqKQnOrFkGxLNynbkoWCJsdTVHTnffzogakv7aL4NgFrT7QPt13HU01DX1sRC1s7mC6HvfzuT6k5/s1600/1279798610.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bungee and sky swing platform – the steep<br />
grade of the mountainside would make this jump<br />
particularly terrifying!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOmIolvHslQoi4bUiKyC_y8KwGi5sglLED3COyUF9iYa3RsU9cOx__zKz9bqphZrHsUac9dnOpbb52LL1mLq4XcsVCcr9xThQnOVawMUzDk0rBI17q2py8k2L5aHnJgwQ_-66tnv7M2xOp/s1600/DSC_5057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOmIolvHslQoi4bUiKyC_y8KwGi5sglLED3COyUF9iYa3RsU9cOx__zKz9bqphZrHsUac9dnOpbb52LL1mLq4XcsVCcr9xThQnOVawMUzDk0rBI17q2py8k2L5aHnJgwQ_-66tnv7M2xOp/s1600/DSC_5057.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the "treehouses" from which<br />
I flew on a zipline; note the stairs on<br />
the right leading to nothingness:<br />
that's the launch point</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUTUW9z7-OOC26dPZo3XL6jjG50NE0lKAfPbp9AciPZz7cxKzaYsv6Ws3cq5tjLukTKmAqIqM34JVC6wzySuK2Qt7EXt6IYjOjMs03C7RdTmg3VMBx6w7C-LlZXZnGJ-9vTDhrEMfyS7lM/s1600/nz-hero-tours-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUTUW9z7-OOC26dPZo3XL6jjG50NE0lKAfPbp9AciPZz7cxKzaYsv6Ws3cq5tjLukTKmAqIqM34JVC6wzySuK2Qt7EXt6IYjOjMs03C7RdTmg3VMBx6w7C-LlZXZnGJ-9vTDhrEMfyS7lM/s1600/nz-hero-tours-1.jpg" height="99" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up at one of the treehouse platforms<br />
(Photo courtesy of Ziptrek Eco-tours)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDzqUQfjWI1Y5lBSbTlI-kctlmurIiLw3VdFVoborvv8Tjb4RNppQNVDDilGRx-vVTpx38VCo7Rb-ylgOfm50Dd0lxzW3A8esvu8pjsuFYiZuylw0dGIdytXxAPVrc6FqBCiAdQyJMD5Df/s1600/nz-hero-tours-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDzqUQfjWI1Y5lBSbTlI-kctlmurIiLw3VdFVoborvv8Tjb4RNppQNVDDilGRx-vVTpx38VCo7Rb-ylgOfm50Dd0lxzW3A8esvu8pjsuFYiZuylw0dGIdytXxAPVrc6FqBCiAdQyJMD5Df/s1600/nz-hero-tours-4.jpg" height="123" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was the final line of the experience, and indeed the only one that<br />
yielded any sort of scenic views (Photo courtesy of Ziptrek Eco-tours)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWGXPYQ_NOAERZ0a8yVHgHM1mCX3utYOQkGj2hhfhx9BXRQOK3LUv6LSVoxOOUeZi2h-lVPecUfE5UD1kxfaMHKMYMClr8FoGasYn1vk_sB44JnvUS8Xw8A5DWwMF64Ijf3LiNdq-leOX/s1600/DSC_5104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWGXPYQ_NOAERZ0a8yVHgHM1mCX3utYOQkGj2hhfhx9BXRQOK3LUv6LSVoxOOUeZi2h-lVPecUfE5UD1kxfaMHKMYMClr8FoGasYn1vk_sB44JnvUS8Xw8A5DWwMF64Ijf3LiNdq-leOX/s1600/DSC_5104.jpg" height="191" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Impressive scenery at a winery in Central Otago</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I stayed two more nights in delightful Queenstown, enjoying some great meals
during my time there, and took a great tour of five wineries in the Central
Otago region. There's something quite special about drinking wines right at the
place where they were made and talking to the people who actually made them. It
was a great experience on the whole, with the one standout being Carrick, a
winery in Bannockburn. It's not that their wines were head and shoulders above
the other wineries' offerings, but it was the food and experience that made it
so memorable. My little group stopped there for lunch and we enjoyed these
incredible tasting platters of antipasto goodies, local cheeses, smoked salmon,
a tasty bacon hock terrine, salami, prosciutto, salads, fritters, pickles,
piquanté peppers, fresh fruit, a couple of different spreads, and freshly baked
breads. The four of us, after tasting a half dozen Carrick wines, opted for a
bottle of their crisp Sauvignon Blanc (a varietal New Zealand excels at) and
thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.<span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmGTFLu8lfjdn9lZDoc0AA7xVtva30Cs9KmmtrZjQxJkMEx7Z6AJGcZK-RGZlzNc_lW9EADVzK8q4mb36yuyW4uRwxYWyOHMkdoJIFX1-rsY0FJXR7Ckk1PK38F9QIdZg__F5urjnfXBJF/s1600/DSC_5097.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmGTFLu8lfjdn9lZDoc0AA7xVtva30Cs9KmmtrZjQxJkMEx7Z6AJGcZK-RGZlzNc_lW9EADVzK8q4mb36yuyW4uRwxYWyOHMkdoJIFX1-rsY0FJXR7Ckk1PK38F9QIdZg__F5urjnfXBJF/s1600/DSC_5097.jpg" height="207" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This old Presbyterian church has been converted<br />
and re-appropriated to serve a much more<br />
practical use: tasting wine!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN5A1fjmVLwVOhCOuXThtpNCePzHqoykY1ConC6fYK52hD5erjAY46Sk2bDsn2mEJ-_u0sXGiGL3Z3IRndkUXA1MCfnBfhxBXPNz3wCo2Ya2eOvQTxUysWPMVgZWkCWkBUEih1JdJYp8FQ/s1600/DSC_5101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN5A1fjmVLwVOhCOuXThtpNCePzHqoykY1ConC6fYK52hD5erjAY46Sk2bDsn2mEJ-_u0sXGiGL3Z3IRndkUXA1MCfnBfhxBXPNz3wCo2Ya2eOvQTxUysWPMVgZWkCWkBUEih1JdJYp8FQ/s1600/DSC_5101.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fairly simple, yet wildly colorful, tasting platter<br />
of cheeses, meats, and dried fruits</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqNLPsbjlgxhHjWENfT8IgNpi4YAv2ku-o7wpEdG6XA4H-s2Wwf-UwFwNVwrRL7w8ImDGgTaCFqd9Yi5BP2FW7dgnYQxQgrkG4ZmdsMNQE7Wn0qbKQElxW2Wfzv9pl2VvQAF6GmU0aPhAI/s1600/DSC_5103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqNLPsbjlgxhHjWENfT8IgNpi4YAv2ku-o7wpEdG6XA4H-s2Wwf-UwFwNVwrRL7w8ImDGgTaCFqd9Yi5BP2FW7dgnYQxQgrkG4ZmdsMNQE7Wn0qbKQElxW2Wfzv9pl2VvQAF6GmU0aPhAI/s1600/DSC_5103.jpg" height="320" width="202" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tasting table: better than a pulpit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqvqlsIfUshk5GktJRQXug1fGU4jI0wCDqxpM92dR_aRq66fyadkkwxMzmiEdE0cqdtLIkdEVZN4t4smXNPDuWDBEXCv3ROX3FzRzI2k735cUILud0HArdSzgmi2avKTbRAAAbL7RxGD4s/s1600/DSC_5106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqvqlsIfUshk5GktJRQXug1fGU4jI0wCDqxpM92dR_aRq66fyadkkwxMzmiEdE0cqdtLIkdEVZN4t4smXNPDuWDBEXCv3ROX3FzRzI2k735cUILud0HArdSzgmi2avKTbRAAAbL7RxGD4s/s1600/DSC_5106.jpg" height="400" width="322" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Settling in for a meal started with fresh-baked breads</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEaiW0FVk7WptxrmAxQDSYQxPKNe-FDEuu3mNubDcOxspm47mSqaEqbKKU6LDt3iUBwfA40_9Iq-GeiqyY2mUHGa_5YkN-MgQMmzJa-CiuhFTHkhGZRATBSk4BF1gdwHEinJpAYGVvCmWA/s1600/DSC_5111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEaiW0FVk7WptxrmAxQDSYQxPKNe-FDEuu3mNubDcOxspm47mSqaEqbKKU6LDt3iUBwfA40_9Iq-GeiqyY2mUHGa_5YkN-MgQMmzJa-CiuhFTHkhGZRATBSk4BF1gdwHEinJpAYGVvCmWA/s1600/DSC_5111.jpg" height="292" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the most memorable meals of the trip – a lovely tasting platter<br />
complemented by a bottle of wine at Carrick Winery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5qfCy3rPhYA4ZeE73iKQhGXgdJococHSLMCxFOdNI47cBvjFHJicd-TDlPKhQrtjxLp30FiWLHYHTWraOSZ_NtcEyKyPKhI95Gh9Zec02ZyfYi4bDDQVWlENmzttpdKN7MSCmr3NA0CG7/s1600/DSC_5115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5qfCy3rPhYA4ZeE73iKQhGXgdJococHSLMCxFOdNI47cBvjFHJicd-TDlPKhQrtjxLp30FiWLHYHTWraOSZ_NtcEyKyPKhI95Gh9Zec02ZyfYi4bDDQVWlENmzttpdKN7MSCmr3NA0CG7/s1600/DSC_5115.jpg" height="250" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A postcard-perfect view from the back deck at the Carrick cellar door</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZfW7nmckDK5Fq3Thfc5-YJstuBtJNUuTPXXMnYpIdzL4k7nxhV-ygebyeIUldDDkTrk2IAkwCTQNtC34sdSBcVuORaLxOEfI5Fj9NFUMM1RqHURAR_LYuZ3vTqleRrjTQA26SNAO79A75/s1600/DSC_5125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZfW7nmckDK5Fq3Thfc5-YJstuBtJNUuTPXXMnYpIdzL4k7nxhV-ygebyeIUldDDkTrk2IAkwCTQNtC34sdSBcVuORaLxOEfI5Fj9NFUMM1RqHURAR_LYuZ3vTqleRrjTQA26SNAO79A75/s1600/DSC_5125.jpg" height="233" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Autumn comes to Central Otago</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUv79LAXlu75A6aEReVfrt9vrCuDTDXIuhxTgl6tpSJhGQZP89xxrhgwcoYXfj5LYG_24PSJmNtro6wOlWVtvK4f4edG91OQ3y5pRaaiWInRRChY9v1PPLuzvE33JbbtvR9qna4lmiAGuB/s1600/DSC_5127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUv79LAXlu75A6aEReVfrt9vrCuDTDXIuhxTgl6tpSJhGQZP89xxrhgwcoYXfj5LYG_24PSJmNtro6wOlWVtvK4f4edG91OQ3y5pRaaiWInRRChY9v1PPLuzvE33JbbtvR9qna4lmiAGuB/s1600/DSC_5127.jpg" height="400" width="291" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking out from the winery's cellar door</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTN_dJ9MOrT-O9LyR38EcfE6MQVwFdcmlERSNNYAU1g-I2hB9EICwHXodM8HXskHj7jq9rPIFUrZzMOopSfJFY6oGMxoY57qJMPIpIhLq46-oJgumbl1KOi8HplqyMaXlj4NlhyphenhyphenMm2k7J4/s1600/DSC_5133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTN_dJ9MOrT-O9LyR38EcfE6MQVwFdcmlERSNNYAU1g-I2hB9EICwHXodM8HXskHj7jq9rPIFUrZzMOopSfJFY6oGMxoY57qJMPIpIhLq46-oJgumbl1KOi8HplqyMaXlj4NlhyphenhyphenMm2k7J4/s1600/DSC_5133.jpg" height="358" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rows of vines with a beautiful palette of colors and textures as<br />
a backdrop in the Kiwi autumn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4iWDpzojzVy3jy0xOS5R-V8aHB-SbTHtFNuQR3kKuV3IUJibw7B6pjTpvRwsb0rmy9tswrzPXWpit_WH3-hBcuB8tZkHXU4ipBiKbFySw0p9cBaMlurXPU3lyu0uDi8QmEqGoTYsicnxX/s1600/DSC_5136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4iWDpzojzVy3jy0xOS5R-V8aHB-SbTHtFNuQR3kKuV3IUJibw7B6pjTpvRwsb0rmy9tswrzPXWpit_WH3-hBcuB8tZkHXU4ipBiKbFySw0p9cBaMlurXPU3lyu0uDi8QmEqGoTYsicnxX/s1600/DSC_5136.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another scenic shot with a<br />
directional sign to one of Otago's<br />
notable wineries, Mt. Difficulty</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-_q-cbJdi5VTDGmrFOOolaO0vEyl-oXjY_VfQUwAWAGpGWhpQaGX_Q-ThuG-sa71DIAJWMLfGD9s9GvCCr7dqFUga4uEakpWTYUxJxrogO0zag-ydc99PzhxozhJEhhXURPy3nLidpq1Q/s1600/DSC_5159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-_q-cbJdi5VTDGmrFOOolaO0vEyl-oXjY_VfQUwAWAGpGWhpQaGX_Q-ThuG-sa71DIAJWMLfGD9s9GvCCr7dqFUga4uEakpWTYUxJxrogO0zag-ydc99PzhxozhJEhhXURPy3nLidpq1Q/s1600/DSC_5159.jpg" height="301" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The daily menu at Fishbone... note the breathtaking<br />
prices (for reference, 1 NZD = 85¢ USD)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another memorable dining experience was at a popular restaurant in
town called Fishbone where I got to try their famous Bluff oysters from the
cold waters at the very southern bit of the island (the seaport town nearest to
where they're from is called Bluff, hence the capital 'B'). Permit me to go off
on a bit of a tangent here... I've never quite understood the whole oyster
thing, frankly. I'm convinced a lot of people just<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>pretend<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></i>to like them so they can appear
chic and trendy or whatever. I mean, really... they're slimy, they're really
expensive these days, and it's basically like swallowing a squishy piece of raw
muscle that tastes like salt, with a splash of ocean water tossed in for good
measure. You can't even really<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>eat<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></i>them in the sense of chewing and
savoring them. You have to gulp them down like you're swallowing a pill. I
guess some people chew them up, but I think for a lot of people, that would
trigger a pretty strong gag reflex. I grew up on the Gulf of Mexico and had
more than my fill of oysters as a youngster. In those days, of course, they
weren't all nouveau and trendy like they are today. We'd go to this little
divey joint, I guess you'd call it an oyster bar, and sit at the counters which
were – if memory serves – filled with crushed ice and scattered with a bunch of
fresh oysters from the Gulf. You'd get an oyster knife and just have a field
day. Cheap, disgusting, and not remotely haute cuisine. Back then, the only way
I could get an oyster down without it coming right back up was to sandwich it
between two saltine crackers (the crunchy offsetting the slimy, in my child's
logic) with a generous dollop of cocktail sauce. I remember, perhaps a decade
ago, visiting the tourist trap hell known as Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco
where I nearly passed out when I was told a platter of four oysters cost $9.
Seriously! And they're probably double that cost now. I mean, come on, they're
just oysters... not exactly the speediest or most elusive of beasts. It really
can't take all that much effort to catch them! We've got a place here in KL that serves these special oysters from off the Normandy coast that cost RM38 each. That's
about US$12 per oyster. Now, admittedly, this is a pretty good oyster. I've had
them, and they're indeed not your run-of-the-mill pieces of slime. And also
admittedly, Malaysia is a<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>very<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></i>long way for these little guys to
travel from Normandy, France. So yeah. But what's the excuse in San Francisco?
What's the excuse in New Zealand? That's what I thought.<span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_KRuFt2EZUJPkwImHS3E1T4wjl1Oxpt_kF2VPnvXGSlEnMJw11ARZ8fSqLVe9WkWUzrSgta_u0slf7kebhcptXcLDSe-6mztFvxK3-x0ttBS7Kmae6O3O2dYXNQpQTH8fVcqFv0Mmeu-6/s1600/DSC_5168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_KRuFt2EZUJPkwImHS3E1T4wjl1Oxpt_kF2VPnvXGSlEnMJw11ARZ8fSqLVe9WkWUzrSgta_u0slf7kebhcptXcLDSe-6mztFvxK3-x0ttBS7Kmae6O3O2dYXNQpQTH8fVcqFv0Mmeu-6/s1600/DSC_5168.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My lone Bluff oyster: World duly rocked,<br />
life forever changed. Except not really</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Okay, anyway, back to Fishbone. So I had my big famous Bluff
oyster, hoop de doo, and it tasted exactly like a mouthful of ocean water. It
was alright though, as it was only one – the full serving of six would have
done me in (and at US$25 for the serving, I was a bit mortified). But I looked
very, very cool as I sucked that one lone oyster down, I'm sure. So yeah, the
rest of the meal was great (prawn tacos and baked flounder, yum), and the
dessert was New Zealand's pride and joy, pavlova, a meringue-based dessert that
was somehow simultaneously airily light and richly decadent. Great restaurant,
with nearly everything sourced locally. But to eat well here, or nearly
anywhere in Queenstown for that matter, come empty of stomach and full of
wallet. Food is just not at all cheap as a general rule in New Zealand. A meal
for two at Fishbone could easily approach US$200 if you throw in a bottle of
mid-grade local wine (about $60). Yes, the food in New Zealand is, on the whole,
outstanding. No place in the country is more than about 80 miles from the ocean
and plentiful grazing land, clean air, and unspoiled water have allowed New
Zealand to develop a fine reputation for quality food, particularly lamb, beef,
dairy products, and seafood. Fresh, local, delicious. But oh, you will pay, my
friend. You will pay.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfV4C-0IBrgmD28XNmebLHfZhYhaP63Zd7r6RHRkMCOMxCCimiNl-jM7suUc2ZB6YxZAGl129j21O85SKrAKy2R7aiHWs7uhsKa-qmdwzsRkr_WG9jZU6HUgxqnzUF6dP5ytwDz4sb8TNN/s1600/DSC_5162.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfV4C-0IBrgmD28XNmebLHfZhYhaP63Zd7r6RHRkMCOMxCCimiNl-jM7suUc2ZB6YxZAGl129j21O85SKrAKy2R7aiHWs7uhsKa-qmdwzsRkr_WG9jZU6HUgxqnzUF6dP5ytwDz4sb8TNN/s1600/DSC_5162.jpg" height="198" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of my yummy prawn tacos at Fishbone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4xQPR3DSdb4FpfTg7wzfaCkteADXMg-VSQBOUgQ1Uu2U4mbIC4PX5fSJn9Rcq2NIYFjpYeuTn4yhzKdXPdhJ_oRA-WMmbaHuT1A_PF8w1J8D7WdPq0AtLIjJhZB3l_7eiob2q8PKdJllb/s1600/DSC_5172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4xQPR3DSdb4FpfTg7wzfaCkteADXMg-VSQBOUgQ1Uu2U4mbIC4PX5fSJn9Rcq2NIYFjpYeuTn4yhzKdXPdhJ_oRA-WMmbaHuT1A_PF8w1J8D7WdPq0AtLIjJhZB3l_7eiob2q8PKdJllb/s1600/DSC_5172.jpg" height="206" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It looks like Eggs Benedict with the bizarre addition<br />
of capers, but nope... it's NZ Pavlova, a meringue<br />
dessert; the greenish bits are passionfruit seeds</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi4VCn12Xtc8tFklqiNBJqw1DHWhltY9J5WUyZGaYFIWxPebocPxtC7KOkZJXfS8rMMpHNAVkm7F1cufrePA1DJJjn7xM5Zq6PlgwhJxfxr1ZQBbGg5SyFy3i6ZTdtXiTHJ2tSFaZhiOM1/s1600/DSC_5178b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi4VCn12Xtc8tFklqiNBJqw1DHWhltY9J5WUyZGaYFIWxPebocPxtC7KOkZJXfS8rMMpHNAVkm7F1cufrePA1DJJjn7xM5Zq6PlgwhJxfxr1ZQBbGg5SyFy3i6ZTdtXiTHJ2tSFaZhiOM1/s1600/DSC_5178b.jpg" height="186" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My car for a couple of days... the Aussie/NZ version<br />
of Chevrolet called "Holden" or something like that</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Moving on to the next phase of my journey, I rented a car and
headed out from Queenstown en route to Lake Tekapo. The first few hours of the drive were incredibly scenic, and I made a number of stops, even briefly tempted to try bungee jumping at the place where it all started (on a commercial basis, at least), but figured that jumping out of a plane was enough for one trip. Unfortunately, the blue skies didn't last through the day, and with
spectacularly uncooperative weather descending like a mantle onto my shoulders, the evening and at least the first half of the subsequent day was the most dismal stretch of the entire trip. The scenery at Tekapo<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>should<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></i>have been stunning. I<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>should<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></i>have taken an incredible
sightseeing flight around the mountains and glaciers. I<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>should<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></i>have gone to an observatory for
nighttime stargazing in one of the world's darkest "dark sky"
locations. Precisely none of that happened thanks to an entire afternoon,
evening, night, and following morning of low clouds and persistent light rain. I stayed in a nice apartment at a resort called "Peppers" that would have probably been great under better conditions, and I did indulge in another terrific tasting platter (similar to the one at Carrick Winery)
for my dinner that night, along with a couple of outstanding wines from
Marlborough and Central Otago. Pretty much nothing else about that day was
memorable, though.<span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-uzn9yk7ApfgryAoQGt9IANu07vOVNZIyOnMW2gKIjNmoVwrzaPvZBbAP2MEoYtti3jlNJWReutGG3CexVHpwUh56H0zQtZkntew-kKILdKPIcpRhpuepQS_2OzZdVOJB6wEAYiN9pNmb/s1600/DSC_5196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-uzn9yk7ApfgryAoQGt9IANu07vOVNZIyOnMW2gKIjNmoVwrzaPvZBbAP2MEoYtti3jlNJWReutGG3CexVHpwUh56H0zQtZkntew-kKILdKPIcpRhpuepQS_2OzZdVOJB6wEAYiN9pNmb/s1600/DSC_5196.jpg" height="220" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beautiful suspension bridge spanning the Kawarau River gorge,<br />
now home to AJ Hackett bungee jumping</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQlp4K9IQND91wt68Wr1YZgjd1jG5n3rDw_VdDEC8UETzZZIDTcEeNE823KQwx4qWTyu1QASZgd8okWSc41_xQGJJkY8KP-dvb2tTcrfKjo6zjvMb5e5wJPu-cx_R5sizFNxP86lO0M_yF/s1600/DSC_5201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQlp4K9IQND91wt68Wr1YZgjd1jG5n3rDw_VdDEC8UETzZZIDTcEeNE823KQwx4qWTyu1QASZgd8okWSc41_xQGJJkY8KP-dvb2tTcrfKjo6zjvMb5e5wJPu-cx_R5sizFNxP86lO0M_yF/s1600/DSC_5201.jpg" height="188" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is where commercial bungee jumping all began</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpdK4o0MfX3NncjJE4829QwWlsOD_I0VyFiYgQSJgmnPn2rCC_Lkb0Xqonz5U2LxPcyd04wxaI2aDB5Frs6ZRZgUKOcLXzOCsccXyMH6WUxz0YPb2R0IXfuNS-_0I8TUWJnFUFlwCmj1fs/s1600/DSC_5202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpdK4o0MfX3NncjJE4829QwWlsOD_I0VyFiYgQSJgmnPn2rCC_Lkb0Xqonz5U2LxPcyd04wxaI2aDB5Frs6ZRZgUKOcLXzOCsccXyMH6WUxz0YPb2R0IXfuNS-_0I8TUWJnFUFlwCmj1fs/s1600/DSC_5202.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I suppose if you're going to be terror-stricken<br />
in a bungee jump, the stunning scenery<br />
in the area surely must help a bit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6dvAxdcP349MxaGDMGFmkawbIRrzBULxcKDEN9pX7q48r4X0hfgvafsaR8RRId5A2BAyZCRAasjmYtpSI3PH4Vwzsq0H0byiSYplRODoDurMTglU7HWUeIsQSKXerSd7L5IC7TCH0WdZJ/s1600/DSC_5253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6dvAxdcP349MxaGDMGFmkawbIRrzBULxcKDEN9pX7q48r4X0hfgvafsaR8RRId5A2BAyZCRAasjmYtpSI3PH4Vwzsq0H0byiSYplRODoDurMTglU7HWUeIsQSKXerSd7L5IC7TCH0WdZJ/s1600/DSC_5253.jpg" height="186" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "tasting board" with a glass of Pinot Gris at<br />
Peppers Resort in Lake Tekapo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKv-yNmSv0rJB0F4AHW5GZY9Xyfct9gkKFxT-AhFTSnXOMoH3F_fDfLa6682RfvCfg8JXOklLEIKokRaMx7QGvtFyFweu0Xe0gwmhX74_CMae4bPAK3Rwvs7vxzyNHClQnn4OZGavoJYdL/s1600/DSC_5245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKv-yNmSv0rJB0F4AHW5GZY9Xyfct9gkKFxT-AhFTSnXOMoH3F_fDfLa6682RfvCfg8JXOklLEIKokRaMx7QGvtFyFweu0Xe0gwmhX74_CMae4bPAK3Rwvs7vxzyNHClQnn4OZGavoJYdL/s1600/DSC_5245.jpg" height="320" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The kitchen at the resort apartment I stayed<br />
in... used only to make coffee the next morning</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span><br />
As I proceeded the next day towards Christchurch, the gloomy
weather held on, but pockets of sporadic sunshine and the evocative
atmospherics that cloud and humidity can combine to provide actually yielded
some pretty special photos. I stopped in a quaint town called Ashburton for a
quick lunch and a tiny bit of exploring. But "quaint" turned rather
rapidly into "dull," so I pressed onward. Just before I rolled into
Christchurch, I detoured to do some jet boating on the alpine Waimakariri
River, a real thrill ride speeding along at 50-60 mph on the shallow, clear
blue glacial water and taking in the gorgeous scenery along the way. The abrupt
turns, 360-degree spins, and of course the steady light rain that started about
halfway into the ride all contributed to a really good time, if not to any
particularly great pictures. So though there aren't any photos from the jet boating that are worth sharing, take a look at some of the scenery from the road trip... be sure to click on and enlarge these photos (which are not presented chronologically). The beauty of the region really came across nicely that day, and once again, it's pretty amazing how much some of these photos remind me of my home state of Colorado!<span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWH5h8s1QCMYbLPZ53plHsX5zbL9OdTwcmnmxNiJAZnsiqUgW9Vvt1Uw8SFyiuuK14RNWITfHN20ni47uvUeM7p2LOkd10ZwFOBVh2RO05FrjlGHHfwGHmYtGhJU0cJjQmoFttY6KeIFOc/s1600/DSC_5273.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWH5h8s1QCMYbLPZ53plHsX5zbL9OdTwcmnmxNiJAZnsiqUgW9Vvt1Uw8SFyiuuK14RNWITfHN20ni47uvUeM7p2LOkd10ZwFOBVh2RO05FrjlGHHfwGHmYtGhJU0cJjQmoFttY6KeIFOc/s1600/DSC_5273.jpg" height="178" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A damp mist created saturated colors and great atmospherics</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbFNLIaQ_D_DcQbkeoLhw-q_K8wDVBxhnpEZia6HMfC9Fn9CiYOLr6_QduI2IijdkHFTqU9ytYZXfBPa8Ozw2UmaMhFB4adz7HmXkqgkPWh_KPrE8WEB8kU4w4k_i53q_-J1tKdB3130J_/s1600/DSC_5261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbFNLIaQ_D_DcQbkeoLhw-q_K8wDVBxhnpEZia6HMfC9Fn9CiYOLr6_QduI2IijdkHFTqU9ytYZXfBPa8Ozw2UmaMhFB4adz7HmXkqgkPWh_KPrE8WEB8kU4w4k_i53q_-J1tKdB3130J_/s1600/DSC_5261.jpg" height="242" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dew drops and light fog</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1y-RdQOyPmMzofQ8yLAY4pC_Br2Qg-2sqzP9qj4b7VQDM76aJuJoovvSa-8iNpJg4ySr2_zJgmG-gpMwti9WYXP-rN5FqQrBMWBVqagWn6tuxFgPOGvstllRClgli_f9-aUg2aCoKtGdZ/s1600/DSC_5179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1y-RdQOyPmMzofQ8yLAY4pC_Br2Qg-2sqzP9qj4b7VQDM76aJuJoovvSa-8iNpJg4ySr2_zJgmG-gpMwti9WYXP-rN5FqQrBMWBVqagWn6tuxFgPOGvstllRClgli_f9-aUg2aCoKtGdZ/s1600/DSC_5179.jpg" height="182" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The contrast between the bright white low-level clouds and<br />
dark, shrouded mountains made for a great scene here</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoAPY7cqrFtSylwNrSlIXNsqaaGYUaUMyY1aAaeAlchCf7PXxEjs5dRjJJIZQIVFJhtHKtiK4OvC27WDMwwoOPpCpzygYvKP_SfqEAzvw5mfmUatqLKotvOU4ivtkOiATCQ8XAa8WWAzIT/s1600/DSC_5188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoAPY7cqrFtSylwNrSlIXNsqaaGYUaUMyY1aAaeAlchCf7PXxEjs5dRjJJIZQIVFJhtHKtiK4OvC27WDMwwoOPpCpzygYvKP_SfqEAzvw5mfmUatqLKotvOU4ivtkOiATCQ8XAa8WWAzIT/s1600/DSC_5188.jpg" height="200" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was really nice... not too far out of Queenstown, I stopped at<br />
a little rest area by Lake Hayes and this was the view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMq4jH_HEDFJLPqgPVwoSNDIuIWM2lK4pqOhKBT8NoRy0ht23lI_l076EYmfBGzlaHi_lCBXGD3rnkalPVxR6u44s8RD6YL0crc5roLC5EXnntJm5YoojIYSMvoGx5XAeEUul3Cgt5mcj5/s1600/DSC_5181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMq4jH_HEDFJLPqgPVwoSNDIuIWM2lK4pqOhKBT8NoRy0ht23lI_l076EYmfBGzlaHi_lCBXGD3rnkalPVxR6u44s8RD6YL0crc5roLC5EXnntJm5YoojIYSMvoGx5XAeEUul3Cgt5mcj5/s1600/DSC_5181.jpg" height="188" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another study in contrast, with focused bits of sunlight<br />
splashing down on the landscape in the distance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXScHi3_2XGsdwEHtAfMY7kInL_Xp8SQ3v9bWpmjlwN6TQXy4yojQs_kfKi9YlQ-A1wmvtgAPY4XHGc-rKf2Rhe25dtkqLl7wibLaZWQaVipnrVuy3TLbXPFsZ27W0g7kdJL3xLcJzN7q-/s1600/DSC_5190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXScHi3_2XGsdwEHtAfMY7kInL_Xp8SQ3v9bWpmjlwN6TQXy4yojQs_kfKi9YlQ-A1wmvtgAPY4XHGc-rKf2Rhe25dtkqLl7wibLaZWQaVipnrVuy3TLbXPFsZ27W0g7kdJL3xLcJzN7q-/s1600/DSC_5190.jpg" height="226" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another lovely lake near the border of Otago and Canterbury</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX7y_8suoK80o4DXPnw1X_LvXu-lrHznxbgPln4UUbjRpXnIVfpvbVbviCG1b8wfnNZB4dou6W7t4Kd5jt-O_nrMqR9S0pEpEwzbsF6wZ9phYzCV1l8zmIbYyTTDxfQ4Gdocjx_U3D9qdt/s1600/DSC_5185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX7y_8suoK80o4DXPnw1X_LvXu-lrHznxbgPln4UUbjRpXnIVfpvbVbviCG1b8wfnNZB4dou6W7t4Kd5jt-O_nrMqR9S0pEpEwzbsF6wZ9phYzCV1l8zmIbYyTTDxfQ4Gdocjx_U3D9qdt/s1600/DSC_5185.jpg" height="182" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of my very favorite photos from the trip... so much color!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEvbsGEh2mMhA9Zi4CqPjPzwwgLQpvZZS0CpZkP_TQS0n2_I34BvV9KTzJ4QKfDgrCqTJpVyAr765stDzRUro1Icn0jBaOriZ631vI7TrPJRIvXeJRzr_N4C15J8QkBTgA_xZFrF7_-d5C/s1600/DSC_5193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEvbsGEh2mMhA9Zi4CqPjPzwwgLQpvZZS0CpZkP_TQS0n2_I34BvV9KTzJ4QKfDgrCqTJpVyAr765stDzRUro1Icn0jBaOriZ631vI7TrPJRIvXeJRzr_N4C15J8QkBTgA_xZFrF7_-d5C/s1600/DSC_5193.jpg" height="217" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same lake as before, entering the Canterbury region along<br />
Route 8, called the Twizel-Omarama Highway</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKtEDXit0YnrN-sKN6s8Wr75mLxDRCsjd-VUraLrktJwQSgqbVFwXz9UKUyZRP6dJhASJ225-n4ZYXYrYUC1V_GB08RbimtiiJt6PmmK4jFUiTZaaio3mice4o234O4b4B1I8e7HamAq7m/s1600/DSC_5225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKtEDXit0YnrN-sKN6s8Wr75mLxDRCsjd-VUraLrktJwQSgqbVFwXz9UKUyZRP6dJhASJ225-n4ZYXYrYUC1V_GB08RbimtiiJt6PmmK4jFUiTZaaio3mice4o234O4b4B1I8e7HamAq7m/s1600/DSC_5225.jpg" height="216" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was well into the Canterbury region, after Lake Tekapo...<br />
a true sense of space and solitude in the area, to be certain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZpllPt-pA4vx6OC1JstWO7u0m8tYwR6gfDZ1uDUUYNYGVFmSvojl2ywJ9eMpe4CKXp_XXHTqf3yDRBs3z5LenL6MLQ6eGRxpAQvFi5HHUP4UcxgMg0cWeGYv2LGbUOPfeE1SeaIQUS-2-/s1600/DSC_5240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZpllPt-pA4vx6OC1JstWO7u0m8tYwR6gfDZ1uDUUYNYGVFmSvojl2ywJ9eMpe4CKXp_XXHTqf3yDRBs3z5LenL6MLQ6eGRxpAQvFi5HHUP4UcxgMg0cWeGYv2LGbUOPfeE1SeaIQUS-2-/s1600/DSC_5240.jpg" height="200" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A mobile advertisement! This flight-ready vintage biplane near Lake<br />
Tekapo serves as a marketing tool for a locally based flightseeing outfit<br />
(though the flights offered are not in this aircraft)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY4K-1-yIP_DRAppbVRoh-msJVJ81T7aNdoGWnaIOL6Qj7md7ItHya0yr6gke9CbOO3Q8jbX3xdenm-pNq8EB4U4WKaqOsp98Y1l79VRYPx-NUXYKIvsFIDXSubkZznsOJK2LqHzNnoyp5/s1600/DSC_5237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY4K-1-yIP_DRAppbVRoh-msJVJ81T7aNdoGWnaIOL6Qj7md7ItHya0yr6gke9CbOO3Q8jbX3xdenm-pNq8EB4U4WKaqOsp98Y1l79VRYPx-NUXYKIvsFIDXSubkZznsOJK2LqHzNnoyp5/s1600/DSC_5237.jpg" height="250" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of my favorite images, and I can't quite even remember where<br />
I snapped this – somewhere between Queenstown and Lake Tekapo!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisIKTnQG08QjixZNZXsgADCXXDfS_enho89Xu-L09Y8_eHZS1Tt1PvXEomR7_yfSL9cwZL3geVOoL6TQjMBhOrEpvez4Y5y9rbzGGsBe4iSLDs0pJUYh_3ionl6_kSjnkT67HLJSOr0ebN/s1600/DSC_5275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisIKTnQG08QjixZNZXsgADCXXDfS_enho89Xu-L09Y8_eHZS1Tt1PvXEomR7_yfSL9cwZL3geVOoL6TQjMBhOrEpvez4Y5y9rbzGGsBe4iSLDs0pJUYh_3ionl6_kSjnkT67HLJSOr0ebN/s1600/DSC_5275.jpg" height="185" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welcome to Christchurch!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I arrived in Christchurch late that afternoon and was pretty
astounded at how obvious the destruction from the earthquakes of 2011 still
was. In February of that year, Christchurch was devastated by a quake that hit
on a Tuesday right at the busy lunchtime hour. Six months earlier, the area had
been rattled by a 6.3 temblor, and though the February quake wasn't as
powerful, it was much shallower and much closer to the city center. The
violence of the ground shaking was among the most intense to have ever been
recorded in an urban area. Buildings – many already weakened by the previous
quake – collapsed throughout the city, significant liquefaction occurred just
east of the downtown area, and damage throughout Christchurch was widespread.
In the destruction and collapsing buildings, 185 people perished. Two
substantial aftershocks, the latter of which was as strong as the main quake,
struck the city in June of that same year, causing still more damage.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
The Christchurch earthquakes made global headlines in 2011, of
course, but they were in and out of the news fairly quickly, and having been
there now, even three years later, it's easy to say the media<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>seriously<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></i>understated the destruction
wrought on the South Island's largest city. Arriving on the scene in 2014, it
wasn't immediately evident there had been a major earthquake in the city, but
it was quite clear that something was going on. Following the series of quakes,
over 1,000 buildings in Christchurch's central business district were
demolished. That's a staggering number of buildings for a relatively small city
(about 375,000), underscoring how grievously these earthquakes affected
Christchurch and the whole of New Zealand. Even during my visit, numerous
condemned buildings still stood, vacant, silent, cordoned off, awaiting their
impending doom. Now, the entire CBD is effectively a massive construction zone,
a veritable blizzard of orange cones, blocked streets, redirected travel, and
temporary fencing. It's a stark testament to the devastation that was wrought
by the 2011 earthquakes.<span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwlCbs1iI54Im9fPQjYpzJ94tCwfaVspqFkbppxBXvo-QXupdTsGb5GmGQCBuQ7nGxitKtzxOy69hL4r9nPNdqNPOH95Ci45v5MsQs4wIZkNc0ru0XJTrG5qD0nw9TUijBYsEMgKzi4vue/s1600/DSC_5283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwlCbs1iI54Im9fPQjYpzJ94tCwfaVspqFkbppxBXvo-QXupdTsGb5GmGQCBuQ7nGxitKtzxOy69hL4r9nPNdqNPOH95Ci45v5MsQs4wIZkNc0ru0XJTrG5qD0nw9TUijBYsEMgKzi4vue/s1600/DSC_5283.jpg" height="295" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the pneumatic tubes snaking about overhead</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Yet, after spending some time in Christchurch – a truly engaging
and charming city, I found – and talking to its proud and resilient residents,
it seems certain that the Christchurch of tomorrow will be an even stronger
city. One particularly fascinating denizen I met there owns an eclectic, funky
café built in the space that once housed the High Street Post Office. His place
was among the first businesses in the CBD to be re-established after the
February 2011 quake, and even that accomplishment took a year to achieve, so
complete was the damage. The popular C1 Espresso Café serves up great coffees,
pastries, and other light fare in a truly funky and hard-to-pigeonhole
environment. The café also offers the very unusual experience of having some of
the food zipped directly to your table by clear pneumatic tubes, the same kind
you see at the drive-up bank teller or in large supermarkets, used for sending
cash to the office from the registers. The tubes at C1 have been modified and
adapted to deliver not bank deposits or cash (sadly), but rather a trio of
delicious sliders and crispy fries, all cradled in a metal cylinder and zipped
from kitchen to table at 60 mph via overhead pneumatic tubes. Pretty cool.<span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuU1r3RbpB_xptLZFCABp18T3LhTIJi5MOQvx3VjMamb6_Qpwv_n-353gBT5oa7Dq_F9HzfFLbiMRAWC6HXvqfLgjZMGneg33AJfzknh_3cnOdCDZ24wpBvg82XuoMpLsXfWMV3kP-GjLZ/s1600/DSC_5290.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuU1r3RbpB_xptLZFCABp18T3LhTIJi5MOQvx3VjMamb6_Qpwv_n-353gBT5oa7Dq_F9HzfFLbiMRAWC6HXvqfLgjZMGneg33AJfzknh_3cnOdCDZ24wpBvg82XuoMpLsXfWMV3kP-GjLZ/s1600/DSC_5290.jpg" height="217" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delicious sliders and crispy fries at C1 Espresso Café</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8l45idRU-pREX1KjJ-HhiCet9sJiMRsx716uhbxoWUcAud1sKiAvsKtRNtIv9k_FHMm33WghGP-pOHTwLVJf5Z57WEh0xBrCCSZ0EyxC_wsT32U624XxPOS0JKyzgh8hnuqGeXpv142q/s1600/DSC_5294.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8l45idRU-pREX1KjJ-HhiCet9sJiMRsx716uhbxoWUcAud1sKiAvsKtRNtIv9k_FHMm33WghGP-pOHTwLVJf5Z57WEh0xBrCCSZ0EyxC_wsT32U624XxPOS0JKyzgh8hnuqGeXpv142q/s1600/DSC_5294.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scallops and streaky bacon...<br />
there's no way this was going<br />
to be anything but yummy!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
My final meal in Christchurch was something purportedly resembling
Mexican, I guess, but though it was very tasty, it was also nothing resembling
either real Mexican or Tex-Mex. Sadly I can't remember the name of the place,
but I could find it in a pinch, I'm sure. It was a fitting end to a short, but
enjoyable time in Christchurch.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
From there, I drove to the airport the next morning, dropped off my rental car, and grabbed an Air New Zealand flight back up to
Auckland on the North Island, where I had a leisurely lunch – sushi of all things! – then caught my nonstop and still-lengthy
11-hour flight back to Kuala Lumpur. New Zealand is indeed far from everything
(except perhaps Australia), but that isolation no doubt contributes greatly to its
remarkable appeal. Enjoyable activities, loads of adventure, great wide-open
roads, outstanding food and wine, and the fascinating Māori culture (which
I didn't even get to touch on here!), all set against a stunning backdrop of
natural grandeur and unspoiled, sparsely populated spaces, New Zealand is
easily one of the world's most heralded travel destinations, an isolated island
nation that is perhaps among a choice few Holy Grails of tourism for global
wanderers. I thoroughly enjoyed my very rapid eight-day vacation there, and
have already started making some tentative plans to (hopefully) return again next year...
to the southern sensation the Māori call<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>Aotearoa</i>.<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw55YwJoPnGobfBsHQLe_4hSkD2bhkeybruN0pMHQAEMEsEQTVDNz9636fbURkv9H7KdqFB0FjKHTcyMiSa7ltd51c492X33Wvwe0CPKG2BISwhN5nrbTg0XhKDYCFVDKoROza5JAGfv4z/s1600/DSC_5017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw55YwJoPnGobfBsHQLe_4hSkD2bhkeybruN0pMHQAEMEsEQTVDNz9636fbURkv9H7KdqFB0FjKHTcyMiSa7ltd51c492X33Wvwe0CPKG2BISwhN5nrbTg0XhKDYCFVDKoROza5JAGfv4z/s1600/DSC_5017.jpg" height="220" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Natural, wide-open, clean, and beautiful... just as the tourism ads<br />
proclaim, it's indeed 100% pure New Zealand</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-50867338569760738142014-07-27T23:11:00.000-06:002014-08-05T22:42:56.220-06:00Te Waipounamu: New Zealand's South Island – Part 1 of 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhopmxUGlCJ5Irf-TE2lBX8f14gfRQCR7OhFQwGFQh9Tkg3XchcYFaeqrenBsJp3CUtn782gjGHKVL0JMAkiOnw_Uur2tGICVx7fETqhr7lZoSGgHZtn9hZlzjc5-qZj47K4trwIdxuAbjX/s1600/DSC_4732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhopmxUGlCJ5Irf-TE2lBX8f14gfRQCR7OhFQwGFQh9Tkg3XchcYFaeqrenBsJp3CUtn782gjGHKVL0JMAkiOnw_Uur2tGICVx7fETqhr7lZoSGgHZtn9hZlzjc5-qZj47K4trwIdxuAbjX/s1600/DSC_4732.jpg" height="400" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It looks suspiciously like my home state<br />
of Colorado, but this is really New Zealand</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I'm sure more than a few global wanderers have New Zealand plugged in prominently on a travel bucket list. (And for the record, I detest the term "bucket list" for truly unknown reasons, but at least everyone knows what it means, I suppose.) In a way, New Zealand is the civilized world's last frontier: Isolated, remote, and a complete study in contrasts. A far-flung island nation, near virtually nothing, yet a country which not only offers stunning natural beauty, but one which offers a phenomenally well-developed infrastructure, second-to-none modernity, and a travel experience that draws on contemporary comfort and wild rugged adventure and nature in equal measure.<br />
<br />
I had the chance to venture south to New Zealand recently, during the advent of the Kiwi autumn – that's early spring for us northern latitude folks. I had to make some decisions about which of the two principal islands to spend most of my time exploring, and as I wanted a blend of scenic beauty and the outstanding adventure tourism for which the country is rightly known, it made choosing the South Island a pretty easy one. Called <i>Te Waipounamu</i> in the native Māori language, meaning "the waters of greenstone," the South Island has a substantially larger landmass than the North Island, yet less than a quarter of New Zealand's 4.5 million residents call it home. With plenty of wide-open spaces, mountains, glaciers, and forests, and just a million people in total, South Island is definitely the cure for those in need of a respite from big-city congestion.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqhy5qsVukLH10o65CqHnZCBheV1U7yyaqucyB3AVcWSDLMD3u-qH130HYw4eSSgC9B9sTtoadA-QBA592ORyyCGDtf5-QAJ3BB9NzT-Apa-eDeUKWrFJoT91OQroHbIA58vlJ8P9B-caq/s1600/DSC_4678.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqhy5qsVukLH10o65CqHnZCBheV1U7yyaqucyB3AVcWSDLMD3u-qH130HYw4eSSgC9B9sTtoadA-QBA592ORyyCGDtf5-QAJ3BB9NzT-Apa-eDeUKWrFJoT91OQroHbIA58vlJ8P9B-caq/s1600/DSC_4678.jpg" height="177" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of many scenic, pastoral landscapes dotting the South Island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpiT5gkEQ0s41Htb1Kz21TDinF61aLsZzRfCaPjhbuTG9bjd14F28L6DRN7xQ6kzOU_aAFnTvW_vmxIbtxPsXc-0wPPJ3cq_KPFXGoG8FidJmZq0W2HbkiPJo3LImjfkkaVkS3hlb0QHtd/s1600/DSC_4581.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpiT5gkEQ0s41Htb1Kz21TDinF61aLsZzRfCaPjhbuTG9bjd14F28L6DRN7xQ6kzOU_aAFnTvW_vmxIbtxPsXc-0wPPJ3cq_KPFXGoG8FidJmZq0W2HbkiPJo3LImjfkkaVkS3hlb0QHtd/s1600/DSC_4581.jpg" height="246" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nearing Queenstown, the snow-capped mountain views<br />
from the plane were magnificent</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIKKzWSUePtA-fI8uekMYaLeh7t6yGw7VeFeUNrdcy4GgUn8XHqgx-EhbdQyPZOAdUoV9gsVlCV_KE9f3WabK8yiguzyT5lELU7yRf7D9EmPDP79a3ooR2rQ7jhUPX6UuVpcL5xa0jmD5M/s1600/DSC_4582.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIKKzWSUePtA-fI8uekMYaLeh7t6yGw7VeFeUNrdcy4GgUn8XHqgx-EhbdQyPZOAdUoV9gsVlCV_KE9f3WabK8yiguzyT5lELU7yRf7D9EmPDP79a3ooR2rQ7jhUPX6UuVpcL5xa0jmD5M/s1600/DSC_4582.jpg" height="400" width="276" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Note the small glacial lake in the bottom right</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbCtuW8qFjGwmUB6_hEiJk8qQythfDLM724cy6y3hYDZGYmH0AbKKZeozojOQFrqnULMhI5Vl4CSgroINyolNzg9iOPdjlCeVe4MkXp59JKaamFA7_IybCik7BeBWF9qvgITcgYX2v-avr/s1600/DSC_4601.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbCtuW8qFjGwmUB6_hEiJk8qQythfDLM724cy6y3hYDZGYmH0AbKKZeozojOQFrqnULMhI5Vl4CSgroINyolNzg9iOPdjlCeVe4MkXp59JKaamFA7_IybCik7BeBWF9qvgITcgYX2v-avr/s1600/DSC_4601.jpg" height="195" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Waiting for snow... I arrived in April, about the beginning of the<br />
New Zealand autumn, so not all of the mountain ranges bore snow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVsvNog5JdLI2FspyZXC1AzAvLBJhQ5rybslnq2DFIDBgysj1aqLjddF50CxWYD4QMxlhXrziPTQpXXPK2iRRgGNMUj9OFs3ntVZMQB2FHkcQ4yLckx6rWrzpph9z7_qPskXmX524RYj6R/s1600/CIMG0040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVsvNog5JdLI2FspyZXC1AzAvLBJhQ5rybslnq2DFIDBgysj1aqLjddF50CxWYD4QMxlhXrziPTQpXXPK2iRRgGNMUj9OFs3ntVZMQB2FHkcQ4yLckx6rWrzpph9z7_qPskXmX524RYj6R/s1600/CIMG0040.jpg" height="207" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Remarkables, a jagged mountain range<br />
that dominates the Queenstown-area landscape</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd4kqqrBkx3Jfq_eeYmdlCY_bAsCPQaVOkmY4DEZAHxanhgTl1bnISkTgR36ERtDSAfRZ-CtUxvLAK-lVPfzNrkD2DC-aEL5t6ugErq6tucsv8wH9wHOkb5BhOM0o5n8PpKsHN6m_VXmRE/s1600/DSC_4599.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd4kqqrBkx3Jfq_eeYmdlCY_bAsCPQaVOkmY4DEZAHxanhgTl1bnISkTgR36ERtDSAfRZ-CtUxvLAK-lVPfzNrkD2DC-aEL5t6ugErq6tucsv8wH9wHOkb5BhOM0o5n8PpKsHN6m_VXmRE/s1600/DSC_4599.jpg" height="320" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of the edge of Queenstown<br />
on approach to landing at the airport</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYIdtmr1NuLcG-ULeXbTAU6WfAanzREkY2WweCHADsq-lrdLU-Ti-WjoYdiCXR2cdYmp1V-sezn42SOZ2MTexBxr971gAshhlqFD-sxs9U6sUGyH50PZV2mcsWzTFq_vjmONsjaiBiLKv5/s1600/CIMG0030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYIdtmr1NuLcG-ULeXbTAU6WfAanzREkY2WweCHADsq-lrdLU-Ti-WjoYdiCXR2cdYmp1V-sezn42SOZ2MTexBxr971gAshhlqFD-sxs9U6sUGyH50PZV2mcsWzTFq_vjmONsjaiBiLKv5/s1600/CIMG0030.jpg" height="204" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The park in Queenstown next to my hotel</div>
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I arrived in Auckland, on the top bit of the North Island, very late at night after a pretty long (10-hour) flight from KL. I stayed overnight at an airport hotel there, sleeping at about 1 a.m., then caught an early morning flight on Air New Zealand down to Queenstown, which is in the southern half of the South Island, in the beautiful Central Otago region. Two hours later, after flying over the snow-capped Southern Alps, I arrived at the airport and was taken to my hotel, a terrific place called Queenstown Park Boutique Hotel. With little time to spare, I checked in, dropped off my bags, and was whisked off to my first adventure appointment – skydiving! Needless to say, at this point I was a bit jet-lagged, certainly glassy-eyed, and more or less just being swept along by the inertia of my itinerary.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin_zSzTqtOJXxGQ7k_EDMfJybdKfh5YJqqXjrgU4VyqfUl_TuD9GGj6zLhj06scygkH5gzKRRDn3KY0ZaQp7vrujSbrAbiHSfkLvEvd_c1WS2RFycY3z4W8YV7_sCg_SIshuKNdD-6Ti9m/s1600/CIMG0045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin_zSzTqtOJXxGQ7k_EDMfJybdKfh5YJqqXjrgU4VyqfUl_TuD9GGj6zLhj06scygkH5gzKRRDn3KY0ZaQp7vrujSbrAbiHSfkLvEvd_c1WS2RFycY3z4W8YV7_sCg_SIshuKNdD-6Ti9m/s1600/CIMG0045.jpg" height="188" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cessna that took us up</td></tr>
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Once on board the Cessna Caravan with a half-dozen fellow jumpers, the side door was rolled closed, its clear acrylic slats affording me a spectacular view of Queenstown and the surrounding mountains as we leapt off the grass runway and climbed to our jump altitude of over 15,000 feet. Still, I was fine, and though I accepted the tube of supplemental oxygen that was offered, I didn't feel I needed it. My breathing was fine, and my nerves were calm. I've spent many hours in small airplanes, including my own beloved Piper Cherokee that I sold before moving to Malaysia. But I always stayed very much inside those planes, something that was not to be the case this time. My distinct lack of amusement at being the first one out of the plane was met with dismissive laughter and the Plexiglas door was rolled up, and suddenly, along with a blast of cold air, there was the world, tiny and remote, nearly three miles below us. And it was then that the first thrill of terror raced through me.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3uZ7O9M7gUpBaxhJumvhaFvRrDFSaWXhlqVrsmMtDs0d6oZLuDQ8SArmZtExwDHo3WJMZZwBirUGZ-P7rgWEDCGDY4GnSd6oVBAetgUMsz5M7AGzHtLTSxHxY4UMN3Bdh4roKPkltnNkk/s1600/NZON2e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3uZ7O9M7gUpBaxhJumvhaFvRrDFSaWXhlqVrsmMtDs0d6oZLuDQ8SArmZtExwDHo3WJMZZwBirUGZ-P7rgWEDCGDY4GnSd6oVBAetgUMsz5M7AGzHtLTSxHxY4UMN3Bdh4roKPkltnNkk/s1600/NZON2e.jpg" height="400" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down a split second after leaving<br />
the plane, wondering whether or not<br />
this was truly a good decision</td></tr>
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Though I’ve spent a lot of time in the air, both as a passenger and a pilot, <i>nothing</i> in my experience had prepared me for the sensation of being in the frame of an open door of an airplane in flight. I reckon it's something that you get used to after a few jumps, but on the first, it's just categorically wrong, a situation that's irreconcilable with logic (and the sense of self-preservation). Cold high-altitude air screamed into the plane and my mind embraced the horror as I looked straight down. But there was barely any time for the apprehension to fully register, nor was there to be any hesitation. My jumpmaster and I simply rotated ourselves slightly towards the door and there we were, hanging out of the airplane. Head back, legs tucked slightly under the fuselage, a couple of preparatory rocking movements, and then, we simply fell from the airplane, the only thing separating us from certain death being the precious contents of a compact pack on the jumpmaster’s back. A split-second of weightlessness and my heart leapt instantly into my throat, following by the inexorable claws of gravity seizing us, then taking hold. We rocketed to Earth, accelerating to terminal velocity, some 200 kph (120 mph), in a matter of seconds. And then, free fall.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpyuVRQ5-yucBfxkpRlxSlAJG9V6d-HD5wtNpjP8yXZJRphDKDurZd_66K9fSvl0_NlO7OW1yUToSCw7_l4z732sW8xqhVno2ujzUcTPPqdbimODNb2DQV7j-ESYLoTNgt2arwDttvvc8f/s1600/cNZQT404021648239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpyuVRQ5-yucBfxkpRlxSlAJG9V6d-HD5wtNpjP8yXZJRphDKDurZd_66K9fSvl0_NlO7OW1yUToSCw7_l4z732sW8xqhVno2ujzUcTPPqdbimODNb2DQV7j-ESYLoTNgt2arwDttvvc8f/s1600/cNZQT404021648239.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Holy <i>$#*%</i>!!! Gravity works!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyWX3JgaKapNV_k9SVTBR9KP9cp_enKXrP6FXDzbhEA72wp179SssnvVgIjqejdGJNb9G0laU_8ekrZrmV-V0XK_5zxvA5Y1aeVUy5mrs014iyOwc4hPwseZd6NOTw8QICVOwoAxBtOCC2/s1600/NZON_NZQT_2014_04_02_C1164_8243+(Large).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyWX3JgaKapNV_k9SVTBR9KP9cp_enKXrP6FXDzbhEA72wp179SssnvVgIjqejdGJNb9G0laU_8ekrZrmV-V0XK_5zxvA5Y1aeVUy5mrs014iyOwc4hPwseZd6NOTw8QICVOwoAxBtOCC2/s1600/NZON_NZQT_2014_04_02_C1164_8243+(Large).jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A small drogue chute is deployed early in the free fall<br />
to stabilize the descent – and look at that scenery!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ_UZ0Fw87HdRpMuSJCVeYiYT3JJD-rPxHbjVS3Z0P2N9bUGFesxMMaUUzGsZP6czQUpVrtBOmYvtka_akkIo1W7m7v2RS1_1EDisBnlHBvNS-8hBAugjFsHCEBv2hXSrIXFGWZT0k0IeX/s1600/cNZQT404021648247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ_UZ0Fw87HdRpMuSJCVeYiYT3JJD-rPxHbjVS3Z0P2N9bUGFesxMMaUUzGsZP6czQUpVrtBOmYvtka_akkIo1W7m7v2RS1_1EDisBnlHBvNS-8hBAugjFsHCEBv2hXSrIXFGWZT0k0IeX/s1600/cNZQT404021648247.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High above New Zealand and falling fast...<br />
this was just after passing through 10,000 feet</td></tr>
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We stayed in that chilly and wind-buffeted free fall for a full minute, plummeting a startling two miles straight down in that short time. When we reached roughly 6,000 feet, the jumpmaster deployed the main chute, and as that big, beautiful parachute unfurled above us, I felt a surge of relief... but not for the reason you might suspect. Free falling at 120 miles an hour produces quite a wind chill, so I was more than happy to slow down and warm up a bit! And in so doing, I was able to just look around and take it all in... and what a panorama. For five wonderful minutes, we drifted ever downward, taking in the stunning scenery of New Zealand’s Lake Wakatipu region. My jumpmaster handed me the “reins” to the chute and let me fly us, pulling one side and then the other to steer us gracefully around the clear blue sky. It was remarkable… a magnificent experience to be suspended there in mid-air like a bird, free and alive.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiatiEeNuS99aQT6WOYXt0cPIu2ln-1vkflpQ4Ag32ltt1vandIi36aO8moekNRAkp-Lm7oNI4GAwGxcMs6LKFjwcwQk-Y5slfysSMi9ly7VXWik1HtTpTctSMm3CVWU9jCm8heRl21Q3yb/s1600/cNZQT404021648251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiatiEeNuS99aQT6WOYXt0cPIu2ln-1vkflpQ4Ag32ltt1vandIi36aO8moekNRAkp-Lm7oNI4GAwGxcMs6LKFjwcwQk-Y5slfysSMi9ly7VXWik1HtTpTctSMm3CVWU9jCm8heRl21Q3yb/s1600/cNZQT404021648251.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stunning views from 6,700 feet, moments before the main chute<br />
was deployed for a leisurely completion to the jump</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3p5yBurI2qwPXuMqXlIqRMKLMY7ZHZMchhlQAvlf2c_AOrDrHKe1m2ZMQWBQFNZFQBdSFNiE5qSP5gOeQiEdYzJKQ5dxi4z01Rk0DqR9n-qtTPeolNSRW4o5e3SssBEY4dBpVJeA_DcPy/s1600/NZON_NZQT_2014_04_02_C1164_8256+(Large).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3p5yBurI2qwPXuMqXlIqRMKLMY7ZHZMchhlQAvlf2c_AOrDrHKe1m2ZMQWBQFNZFQBdSFNiE5qSP5gOeQiEdYzJKQ5dxi4z01Rk0DqR9n-qtTPeolNSRW4o5e3SssBEY4dBpVJeA_DcPy/s1600/NZON_NZQT_2014_04_02_C1164_8256+(Large).jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Touchdown! Coming in for a gentle landing on <i>terra firma</i></td></tr>
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The landing was smooth and effortless, a testament to the skill and experience of my jumpmaster (who at that time had over 26,000 jumps logged). A final volley of photos on the ground, and the experience was over as suddenly as it had begun. What an introduction to my week in New Zealand!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdyl_Z2chBkmZUoTYKv5JZu_Ge0ZQoh8hWWzzExvgm45pLbNJqvlcaHo97bZSxBwjyC971U-RR_YQQUacksyZxpMVNhfDSCo6axHZZ-t-7hc1MTGPkytmR1kbvJKd-M5KBpl32ejroiFU1/s1600/cNZQT404021648258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdyl_Z2chBkmZUoTYKv5JZu_Ge0ZQoh8hWWzzExvgm45pLbNJqvlcaHo97bZSxBwjyC971U-RR_YQQUacksyZxpMVNhfDSCo6axHZZ-t-7hc1MTGPkytmR1kbvJKd-M5KBpl32ejroiFU1/s1600/cNZQT404021648258.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After the jump! Sweet!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhym9Jh1jOkca8BhVcHkE9qXXkmerpaPmFFwskI4aROL7iSlCXtkI2lOPinA4OQPvq16o20voMRljtDgtLlVQvHD0tKnKaIJuo8ToOLdkGDOP3LUV1gfyTZgopQaE0KQpagNLpaUSKvc6nH/s1600/DSC_4613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhym9Jh1jOkca8BhVcHkE9qXXkmerpaPmFFwskI4aROL7iSlCXtkI2lOPinA4OQPvq16o20voMRljtDgtLlVQvHD0tKnKaIJuo8ToOLdkGDOP3LUV1gfyTZgopQaE0KQpagNLpaUSKvc6nH/s1600/DSC_4613.jpg" height="320" width="136" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pinot noir grapes<br />
at Amisfield</td></tr>
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That evening, I had dinner at Amisfield Winery & Bistro just outside of Queenstown, which, a week or two later, hosted no less than Prince William and Kate Middleton on the royal couple's tour of New Zealand. We opted for the NZ$120 (just over US$100) "Trust the Chef" set meal, a four-course wine-paired option that gives the chef free rein to wow you with dishes made with the fresh produce and ingredients of the day. It definitely wasn't the best meal I had on the trip, to be honest, but it was okay, and the wine was excellent, as was the scenery and general ambiance. If I were to return, I'd just order off the menu and forego "trusting the chef." Charcuterie and cheese boards are always a good choice at winery restaurants (or anywhere, really), and I think that's what I'd elect to order here next time, too.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkG-KyllTvTgFniGWbdnXDKSjeWbrfMyAjNXCaJEzAaeG_9aUQmKkxx_NneYk03toFVXImeT-TblbWlvUSvU7Be23eRLzec07h2-bjSTCDcFhGvDrN1yUdwNo4YXBQQJz6PoFwIsIaDTmB/s1600/DSC_4610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkG-KyllTvTgFniGWbdnXDKSjeWbrfMyAjNXCaJEzAaeG_9aUQmKkxx_NneYk03toFVXImeT-TblbWlvUSvU7Be23eRLzec07h2-bjSTCDcFhGvDrN1yUdwNo4YXBQQJz6PoFwIsIaDTmB/s1600/DSC_4610.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amisfield Winery and Bistro</td></tr>
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<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5OUeoUIl6gzHVdNo0l39Y9vNF2HKAUZ_MJAwnJM0gKEWooIusWU9jyet1qFxX61Mg8kFoTPfFSTU8vrY2HDAWjWBpKKTwVu2aqAu-S2rWa4zAQhP6JgNQH04sEIoBERb0_L5FkMoroXsa/s1600/DSC_4617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5OUeoUIl6gzHVdNo0l39Y9vNF2HKAUZ_MJAwnJM0gKEWooIusWU9jyet1qFxX61Mg8kFoTPfFSTU8vrY2HDAWjWBpKKTwVu2aqAu-S2rWa4zAQhP6JgNQH04sEIoBERb0_L5FkMoroXsa/s1600/DSC_4617.jpg" height="226" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the vines at Amisfield Winery, late afternoon</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilODd435GIITS3_3ZuW65kiSpw0dxc4c7Cx2eCztuw03eizPA2PccxW5DTvI-_Huo-KJNZrshDzFRl3jPzviD-XsnxYsOzdIEkx-Zt9sCv9AKNIki3cPOwY9CXgth_Gf_KCRbKX-T7IK70/s1600/DSC_4626.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilODd435GIITS3_3ZuW65kiSpw0dxc4c7Cx2eCztuw03eizPA2PccxW5DTvI-_Huo-KJNZrshDzFRl3jPzviD-XsnxYsOzdIEkx-Zt9sCv9AKNIki3cPOwY9CXgth_Gf_KCRbKX-T7IK70/s1600/DSC_4626.jpg" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We trusted the chef and this was one of our courses...<br />
I can't even recall what it was. Looks reasonably<br />
pretty on the plate, but it wasn't memorable at all</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I suppose nothing else on the trip made <i>quite </i>the impression of jumping out of an airplane, but that didn't make any of it any less memorable. The next adventure, decidedly more tame, was to be an overnight cruise on Milford Sound. We took a scenic coach from Queenstown around the southern half of the immense Lake Wakatipu through the valley to Te Anau (a small town which also sits on another massive lake), then on from there through the mountains to Milford. The distance from Queenstown to Milford is quite short as the crow flies, but as there is no direct land route, the driving distance is fairly extreme: a leisurely journey by scenic coach can easily take five or six hours. It was a comfortable trip, I met some interesting people on the bus, and the journey yielded some beautiful photos, as nearly the entire route was incredibly scenic.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vNSxTJeV70i-sWziC8cssRM4HY4sgF1BBs0pKy7s26dC4lhPojD-aQ1UfIkNNlgDZC4qd2WKICy6LIK-9b3WRVLb0GLzCylf17a4rosLot6k9D6mAqifQdSBqu9hDr3-L_WGgdfiFmjQ/s1600/DSC_4698.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vNSxTJeV70i-sWziC8cssRM4HY4sgF1BBs0pKy7s26dC4lhPojD-aQ1UfIkNNlgDZC4qd2WKICy6LIK-9b3WRVLb0GLzCylf17a4rosLot6k9D6mAqifQdSBqu9hDr3-L_WGgdfiFmjQ/s1600/DSC_4698.jpg" height="320" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The land route from Queenstown to<br />
Milford is shown here in red; air routes<br />
are shown in yellow</td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh0Jbk8xmKgP5aEm7Cu8UOhjQb8-Z7G3KSkt9Q5NgqCHR0FguXknilC6Cf8sGiuOsKMS9nG3-asbIh7r_S-mdLBzXBfh9L3Ap9vruZKxroJYuUqsIUZcXatRIyqA14oOB_RW-rCTZKYI_D/s1600/DSC_4641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh0Jbk8xmKgP5aEm7Cu8UOhjQb8-Z7G3KSkt9Q5NgqCHR0FguXknilC6Cf8sGiuOsKMS9nG3-asbIh7r_S-mdLBzXBfh9L3Ap9vruZKxroJYuUqsIUZcXatRIyqA14oOB_RW-rCTZKYI_D/s1600/DSC_4641.jpg" height="173" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the southern arm of the immense Lake Wakatipu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS09ZppR4Fv66P27CjCI8NFnW5ZYLpJiP8fZ58EW7NSZi0y6emsLVnDiyo7CMuv3x6DNDCqRN3INrRkf3z8gO1xQCv4kPziHSKtngg7fpmdRQJapmhXVc5DGMwYL5JK6FKOWYORd4WelFe/s1600/DSC_4668.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS09ZppR4Fv66P27CjCI8NFnW5ZYLpJiP8fZ58EW7NSZi0y6emsLVnDiyo7CMuv3x6DNDCqRN3INrRkf3z8gO1xQCv4kPziHSKtngg7fpmdRQJapmhXVc5DGMwYL5JK6FKOWYORd4WelFe/s1600/DSC_4668.jpg" height="246" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From here, we left the Wakatipu area and headed into<br />
the valleys leading to Te Anau and <i>Piopiotahi</i>,<br />
the Māori name for Milford Sound</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfDggnSDhrqZiIBsDhnynSyzslFmmkE4cPfJO6FCdtDxBqNXCCKvNKf3PykdkDiINlTjzWyatIF-tQi0aNMLEwBX2bTHY3-X_9W_J-dWsVf24mVfOLVzdRBwHBuIRk0TgjHgHj5qufojP4/s1600/DSC_4677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfDggnSDhrqZiIBsDhnynSyzslFmmkE4cPfJO6FCdtDxBqNXCCKvNKf3PykdkDiINlTjzWyatIF-tQi0aNMLEwBX2bTHY3-X_9W_J-dWsVf24mVfOLVzdRBwHBuIRk0TgjHgHj5qufojP4/s1600/DSC_4677.jpg" height="152" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fertile farmland backdropped by imposing mountains... just gorgeous</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxGZYqsjGDTtl1Z4DiqcCBsl8PMl1EKw0NTkm6v-ux5zezw35y26LTrXmNQz0ij0NtR8353CXKe1dFLgQ_4NuHzvtwTiN9kyQyfw6hZkPqANyLRZqovYBrCy6LlRbrLYH37PVwmJHpWlfA/s1600/DSC_4689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxGZYqsjGDTtl1Z4DiqcCBsl8PMl1EKw0NTkm6v-ux5zezw35y26LTrXmNQz0ij0NtR8353CXKe1dFLgQ_4NuHzvtwTiN9kyQyfw6hZkPqANyLRZqovYBrCy6LlRbrLYH37PVwmJHpWlfA/s1600/DSC_4689.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another shot from Lake Wakatipu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitKPLTXrcPYm0x__5I0KCfy01Z5EFeYjwkXXl2xhRrVgN6tEagrEJvjpUpLbAGfhSuhv-vHRPxrXPIYGRNfJ09I85GPXagD7sJM7BKjXjs_w_9ateSWRPhWCbei7bE9L6Y2p_-TRnvKHJ5/s1600/DSC_4669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitKPLTXrcPYm0x__5I0KCfy01Z5EFeYjwkXXl2xhRrVgN6tEagrEJvjpUpLbAGfhSuhv-vHRPxrXPIYGRNfJ09I85GPXagD7sJM7BKjXjs_w_9ateSWRPhWCbei7bE9L6Y2p_-TRnvKHJ5/s1600/DSC_4669.jpg" height="185" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Along Route 6 in the Otago region</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkgJPBMXh4TeERfXknnfnRTcQ4k2XL1ryp-r11QM4MmqsvjBWdbil0SvCyhD7bbyjAGLlT47U69_pHHvx0AdhrIb17ZCYSON4RZDvxZeT1Y89lYjxC1z0uhE7dG2KoAiX7TCT1K45ukuxI/s1600/DSC_4692e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkgJPBMXh4TeERfXknnfnRTcQ4k2XL1ryp-r11QM4MmqsvjBWdbil0SvCyhD7bbyjAGLlT47U69_pHHvx0AdhrIb17ZCYSON4RZDvxZeT1Y89lYjxC1z0uhE7dG2KoAiX7TCT1K45ukuxI/s1600/DSC_4692e.jpg" height="190" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As immense as Lake Wakatipu is, Lake Te Anau is even larger: it is the<br />
largest lake in the South Island by surface area, and the largest lake in<br />
the entirety of Australasia by freshwater volume</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZIg9XB1TUZNbiib9EQL8PoeuoPxSGPMDk5-CpYYZE7jMnjwk_CCHXdH390eaavUUOfQVbRDrVC41hn_TKsRvUgg07HGciZ8BjLC0iOrP05xd4y6Qt7g1eM2gM7fa45qDLoS4QKzTXAV1d/s1600/DSC_4696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZIg9XB1TUZNbiib9EQL8PoeuoPxSGPMDk5-CpYYZE7jMnjwk_CCHXdH390eaavUUOfQVbRDrVC41hn_TKsRvUgg07HGciZ8BjLC0iOrP05xd4y6Qt7g1eM2gM7fa45qDLoS4QKzTXAV1d/s1600/DSC_4696.jpg" height="185" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A floatplane rests on the glassy surface of Lake Te Anau</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoqQVbKxZo1_1AgRwhi_k_xh9ZkkabZnL9EnlPFOsgIs1Ne9B2ftzLR2pyY6f7A9g0IgXdrxZcqut1KzXvyYnCYW0qHuz7OiNzszee4-QZ4eZ_syt3hluDqlHjaw14rLHcqUqx9Ig_s5xR/s1600/DSC_4707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoqQVbKxZo1_1AgRwhi_k_xh9ZkkabZnL9EnlPFOsgIs1Ne9B2ftzLR2pyY6f7A9g0IgXdrxZcqut1KzXvyYnCYW0qHuz7OiNzszee4-QZ4eZ_syt3hluDqlHjaw14rLHcqUqx9Ig_s5xR/s1600/DSC_4707.jpg" height="221" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After Te Anau, the looming mountains of the Fiordland region beckoned</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3gPfFHSnN9cly_PU4Cj8KqQ2jpksFi1OaQCMGRy_XbPjKM6u2pEwvOyciP-DSeMaNcOfU93QlNMel9Xm-wF5Fw2wG8dVqLKvy6Ll4REMX1ONkBd7Bwx93KcfEDUuAeDGUd52KRxHLPGBl/s1600/DSC_4715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3gPfFHSnN9cly_PU4Cj8KqQ2jpksFi1OaQCMGRy_XbPjKM6u2pEwvOyciP-DSeMaNcOfU93QlNMel9Xm-wF5Fw2wG8dVqLKvy6Ll4REMX1ONkBd7Bwx93KcfEDUuAeDGUd52KRxHLPGBl/s1600/DSC_4715.jpg" height="164" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here is our distinctively wedge-shaped coach;<br />
the livery makes the effect more pronounced, I think,<br />
but the bus really is shaped that way, too!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSNmYCulaDPQWM50Ukm1NATdqwYMUezTSOClN3Hjjo3WOoMtmdxrbhWYZYnors2emEMWG-kFRWE4112EkiTM7ELPZ7TGgaETYmGE_dvO6S69cGlg_0739YUZu2GUEY76OZ7nVn4VzV4Eap/s1600/DSC_4726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSNmYCulaDPQWM50Ukm1NATdqwYMUezTSOClN3Hjjo3WOoMtmdxrbhWYZYnors2emEMWG-kFRWE4112EkiTM7ELPZ7TGgaETYmGE_dvO6S69cGlg_0739YUZu2GUEY76OZ7nVn4VzV4Eap/s1600/DSC_4726.jpg" height="203" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the glacially sculpted mountains of the<br />
untamed Fiordland region</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCYtFo6qrHOKR-1iAqVaUpgktXsK078k49Rw0iEVoLmYfju_0Y80rLmbjmQJ2At5_zGon2J50xEPwdzHROhErvMKT0BVccS6SIkORgov0US1pH5gyGJoiTugamsivVSRjSRQ4eyjl2RiDk/s1600/DSC_4747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCYtFo6qrHOKR-1iAqVaUpgktXsK078k49Rw0iEVoLmYfju_0Y80rLmbjmQJ2At5_zGon2J50xEPwdzHROhErvMKT0BVccS6SIkORgov0US1pH5gyGJoiTugamsivVSRjSRQ4eyjl2RiDk/s1600/DSC_4747.jpg" height="400" width="250" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On a short hike during a planned<br />
stop, we found this waterfall<br />
and iridescent blue pool</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVm0gU3TYk4eJstIGkJuYRQPrWZ2CDUJ3f55BKDAT8Y3rROsKCgQ0mPlzt_jvLzGHtL8buD4XE07SqNzn-6xDnVoqmPnn3gkEp7RGd8HHv21ytYBvCQTCSChjD0qw7_Ix1sumqisl3Tjlq/s1600/DSC_4758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVm0gU3TYk4eJstIGkJuYRQPrWZ2CDUJ3f55BKDAT8Y3rROsKCgQ0mPlzt_jvLzGHtL8buD4XE07SqNzn-6xDnVoqmPnn3gkEp7RGd8HHv21ytYBvCQTCSChjD0qw7_Ix1sumqisl3Tjlq/s1600/DSC_4758.jpg" height="193" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A vast and humbling landscape leading to the final portion of the<br />
journey: through the Homer Tunnel and on to Milford Sound<br />
(Look at the tiny vehicles in comparison for a sense of scale!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRGFkFLhz5m_hS0obzCdVatp2bTFnAoMGICkkuV5_X_dw1LM682q1WyXAVcmft2uJ2Em61RVB8PYJMu2uTYIzt9prGtYyRRxA1ub7bfeneX9iWVMDXBGBxQ4k7n4pKtOsHEM5VBkA05DnA/s1600/DSC_4753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRGFkFLhz5m_hS0obzCdVatp2bTFnAoMGICkkuV5_X_dw1LM682q1WyXAVcmft2uJ2Em61RVB8PYJMu2uTYIzt9prGtYyRRxA1ub7bfeneX9iWVMDXBGBxQ4k7n4pKtOsHEM5VBkA05DnA/s1600/DSC_4753.jpg" height="164" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the east portal of the Homer Tunnel, on the Milford<br />
Sound Highway, a vast glacier creeps down a nearby<br />
mountain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMuk4L7Boswrx6NeKQERv74r3tBlRGEOTtPi_OdjmLh3JGW7_CR5A8jDk6wXi4yEKyw6YMqeIMA8HYyWY3mHTxzBjki1gX-TPXzlvi3b4If-lBnlX_ZPicaoA7FtiKEWamziPtbacbs1Ye/s1600/DSC_4768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMuk4L7Boswrx6NeKQERv74r3tBlRGEOTtPi_OdjmLh3JGW7_CR5A8jDk6wXi4yEKyw6YMqeIMA8HYyWY3mHTxzBjki1gX-TPXzlvi3b4If-lBnlX_ZPicaoA7FtiKEWamziPtbacbs1Ye/s1600/DSC_4768.jpg" height="166" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's a wider view, showing the numerous small<br />
waterfalls resulting from the glacial melting</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXh7CKoiiH8eJZJqehhVzzm5BEG1fhZoHgwkPU721B-GI7pxQMuEuH9yVHgIQ3QSGZPUGXnHQreOnKQtax_K8C6qEpW4_mrYv4dzfeGMYaGfmRriJnRDyLeNcZU2cGF1NqyZ8oyBd5GFtb/s1600/DSC_4762.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXh7CKoiiH8eJZJqehhVzzm5BEG1fhZoHgwkPU721B-GI7pxQMuEuH9yVHgIQ3QSGZPUGXnHQreOnKQtax_K8C6qEpW4_mrYv4dzfeGMYaGfmRriJnRDyLeNcZU2cGF1NqyZ8oyBd5GFtb/s1600/DSC_4762.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The east portal of the 1.2-km Homer<br />
Tunnel. Inside, the tunnel is completely<br />
unlined (raw granite), wet, and very poorly<br />
lit, so it's rather creepy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwstBSShIrworAFaze6gmhGVfDx_K_KDCYdXAEa3br1Shba6tuccwJOq3CxWm9_HeBGuyvYxthysc3fxZJ2FSqqA8UtdCRSwGRy2NfLAzKByPyHO5nvYPf2Hc4lhu78VE8_B6uMqtLTCkR/s1600/DSC_4779.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwstBSShIrworAFaze6gmhGVfDx_K_KDCYdXAEa3br1Shba6tuccwJOq3CxWm9_HeBGuyvYxthysc3fxZJ2FSqqA8UtdCRSwGRy2NfLAzKByPyHO5nvYPf2Hc4lhu78VE8_B6uMqtLTCkR/s1600/DSC_4779.jpg" height="199" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descending on the west side of the tunnel, we stopped<br />
and explored a lush forest that felt quite primeval</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuAG6huk3FWs8q-_Czl-H5rZtuKye7moUWLo6-gTGLmYWNzBEVltIWnc3kO5i1BqVoi40XVvpOVeOTjv1jtklC4g9GEuGVyHGXSt7g_3nWCjifM_y-LNCqrvBe6-LRlCssYP2O-SXa2el6/s1600/DSC_4781.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuAG6huk3FWs8q-_Czl-H5rZtuKye7moUWLo6-gTGLmYWNzBEVltIWnc3kO5i1BqVoi40XVvpOVeOTjv1jtklC4g9GEuGVyHGXSt7g_3nWCjifM_y-LNCqrvBe6-LRlCssYP2O-SXa2el6/s1600/DSC_4781.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's not much in the photo for<br />
scale, but this fern was easily<br />
six feet (nearly 2m) across</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXziHAb4nOG3RXjkn4v5-1a1T7SOpe-bmyQnUf5gxe0ftNrGj_0dz-vrOo3MYqryS4b01IKmzuVfCAWcktrngGCO7CWpa6CBuuvUVd_w4IEtPocPVb4A93DYq7qlb-raTUNbwDH26l6OLz/s1600/DSC_4795.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXziHAb4nOG3RXjkn4v5-1a1T7SOpe-bmyQnUf5gxe0ftNrGj_0dz-vrOo3MYqryS4b01IKmzuVfCAWcktrngGCO7CWpa6CBuuvUVd_w4IEtPocPVb4A93DYq7qlb-raTUNbwDH26l6OLz/s1600/DSC_4795.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of my favorite photos from the forest, the Cleddau River rushing by<br />
on its journey to Deepwater Basin, then Milford Sound, and<br />
finally the Tasman Sea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZXxPkqApTGUjTJ300f-mfDIavvoerKipXvkaOD7eKrW_L7i__aULXKFUungPGdUiGP4FsoSeWdPuVBFo0vsGryoM6D_gWIjJ0bSFp9-VNewZxg3Zan64QoYMMEnSMBaMlFu4aFOIol3tw/s1600/DSC_4799.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZXxPkqApTGUjTJ300f-mfDIavvoerKipXvkaOD7eKrW_L7i__aULXKFUungPGdUiGP4FsoSeWdPuVBFo0vsGryoM6D_gWIjJ0bSFp9-VNewZxg3Zan64QoYMMEnSMBaMlFu4aFOIol3tw/s1600/DSC_4799.jpg" height="211" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And finally, our long overland journey nears its end, and the dramatic,<br />
shrouded peaks of Milford Sound come into view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0oSCXBNGe-__rAe2A4OLowTSmNCkfAtloB9cdnIKy_l5UVtwCHNqrT0Kery1zpk5m9hHwCnkL9MQ6dR3JbH2iKUj2gLUI-t9FFH_JCl7YAfKimWJOFALTYCe58DnXPhaqW9wf9F2A4G2F/s1600/DSC_4803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0oSCXBNGe-__rAe2A4OLowTSmNCkfAtloB9cdnIKy_l5UVtwCHNqrT0Kery1zpk5m9hHwCnkL9MQ6dR3JbH2iKUj2gLUI-t9FFH_JCl7YAfKimWJOFALTYCe58DnXPhaqW9wf9F2A4G2F/s1600/DSC_4803.jpg" height="250" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another photo showcasing the vastness of the Fiordland landscape<br />
as a scenic flight takes off in the waning afternoon sunlight</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigB5En08jQyDaKixQNL0g4ZX9HIlN_5N5zq0G8nq6gTVZsJG8tR55_LIYgNTqiMm8oR7KFh_v7zz4Jdd_fRfSCXfnuTS4ViiIgabGvDJJHDIS5WoIJS4b7Mqa95YuJ6RgAUWoDAF7JOwMh/s1600/DSC_4808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigB5En08jQyDaKixQNL0g4ZX9HIlN_5N5zq0G8nq6gTVZsJG8tR55_LIYgNTqiMm8oR7KFh_v7zz4Jdd_fRfSCXfnuTS4ViiIgabGvDJJHDIS5WoIJS4b7Mqa95YuJ6RgAUWoDAF7JOwMh/s1600/DSC_4808.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The <i>Milford Mariner</i> in the harbor; the iconicMitre Peak<br />
can be seen clearly in the background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We arrived at the harbor in Milford around 4pm and before long, had set out to sea aboard the <i>Milford Mariner</i> cruise ship, a vessel built in a heritage style, giving a traditional appearance but offering distinctly modern comforts and amenities. I was assigned a nice stateroom fore and starboard, and once I deposited my overnight bag there, spent most of my time on deck and in the spacious dining area. Before sundown, we were given the opportunity to take sea kayaks or small tender craft out on the beautiful Milford Sound. Low clouds had come in, giving everything a surreal sense of foreboding. No rain developed, just an eerie atmospheric ambiance. We explored several coves and enjoyed the cool, damp sea air as we plied leisurely around on the open water, never wandering too far from the <i>Mariner</i>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC8YCMhB9T0ByhF7E6z_sMxekhnXMxIZ_JRmTqEifgey8lfNeniXIMMPy53Sr9k_4Wi_RxbVfKbkMJIfSmAjLp3OE6-cLNUlNVWO1cm3Bzecj4y9mn0bThSnb-Cq5oLOVD5jfZ6PsSXI9I/s1600/DSC_4815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC8YCMhB9T0ByhF7E6z_sMxekhnXMxIZ_JRmTqEifgey8lfNeniXIMMPy53Sr9k_4Wi_RxbVfKbkMJIfSmAjLp3OE6-cLNUlNVWO1cm3Bzecj4y9mn0bThSnb-Cq5oLOVD5jfZ6PsSXI9I/s1600/DSC_4815.jpg" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ropes and chains and floating orange doughnuts...<br />
how can you not love the nautical life?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqtvPKkWWF9d-f0u9z2k4Nvfm-9RdSNB2Mk6-YoSqA6tdhxvu7EcX8o2DBiX-SWaZnyoj3QtSgSv0qBfcBjsY2waJuvDFUC5kHbWsk2L0YmHImGk0-3pqzXwgF_zL4eEzTjMYY1jOBCUIx/s1600/DSC_4812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqtvPKkWWF9d-f0u9z2k4Nvfm-9RdSNB2Mk6-YoSqA6tdhxvu7EcX8o2DBiX-SWaZnyoj3QtSgSv0qBfcBjsY2waJuvDFUC5kHbWsk2L0YmHImGk0-3pqzXwgF_zL4eEzTjMYY1jOBCUIx/s1600/DSC_4812.jpg" height="320" width="233" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's my cabin... more than sufficient<br />
for an overnight cruise</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg6tr4jkUqzVpG_7m4el2wPHJD5AinRBqEFspgmHMJ3lZ5k38LXuQjQN8lO8cu0VCWk2FFNPp235wL0QF9If36FP_rk8PO5waCkEr1hoRKmRE3v4_jQpsQo0vWxkNuTERKGql1S1brxWex/s1600/DSC_4814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg6tr4jkUqzVpG_7m4el2wPHJD5AinRBqEFspgmHMJ3lZ5k38LXuQjQN8lO8cu0VCWk2FFNPp235wL0QF9If36FP_rk8PO5waCkEr1hoRKmRE3v4_jQpsQo0vWxkNuTERKGql1S1brxWex/s1600/DSC_4814.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving port and heading to sea</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjhwI3HFaRVKAGrfa-DPcpOkDJbHkNJEtBkCLBQu7UDofMUsmuZveN8klySfIn1w74ZAYwhcui6l_rRK7CmSoDSc2TL1EVtsKs6Rd9fGDLmIgyxuqTqIKMsFJHCttXH1PzywJOwmkwUTpV/s1600/DSC_4822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjhwI3HFaRVKAGrfa-DPcpOkDJbHkNJEtBkCLBQu7UDofMUsmuZveN8klySfIn1w74ZAYwhcui6l_rRK7CmSoDSc2TL1EVtsKs6Rd9fGDLmIgyxuqTqIKMsFJHCttXH1PzywJOwmkwUTpV/s1600/DSC_4822.jpg" height="235" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first of many impressive waterfalls we saw</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_OGrbuywOaWW0MkAwyNONuH0titex9PwV325PVPg9eeZ0hyphenhyphenkGb9U4Ph2_yVZZaaTBJJ2dKscLh6cUYQh9jUTbBXtf0h2tF7CzDd4S_mNOrhu5r9cnH22eJhdTVGc6kiks9EFeN46loLUd/s1600/DSC_4823.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_OGrbuywOaWW0MkAwyNONuH0titex9PwV325PVPg9eeZ0hyphenhyphenkGb9U4Ph2_yVZZaaTBJJ2dKscLh6cUYQh9jUTbBXtf0h2tF7CzDd4S_mNOrhu5r9cnH22eJhdTVGc6kiks9EFeN46loLUd/s1600/DSC_4823.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good weather as we headed out</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOt5kXIse8fvRMlSfYug-O31UXVVaIvYkOwOA5iACsTDlYbO4sBYk6VyWdhEesRf1ReRPaonDAO4t4Ko65ssa_seI1izpMop61_Pfoo0J_4Cey9v0E-f9RzYKETmgwNyjzgHakdGkvnk-D/s1600/DSC_4824.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOt5kXIse8fvRMlSfYug-O31UXVVaIvYkOwOA5iACsTDlYbO4sBYk6VyWdhEesRf1ReRPaonDAO4t4Ko65ssa_seI1izpMop61_Pfoo0J_4Cey9v0E-f9RzYKETmgwNyjzgHakdGkvnk-D/s1600/DSC_4824.jpg" height="196" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking off the stern of the ship as we left the confines of the sound</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_gocHxzGOrsgijYH3vMymac7_00dM-fTo8fQ_ghTacxwaqbebW8DLxK5iYVoZG0kWdLUMC7idI7I-W1mdzSf1erI4E-NzfvoMb34agMQAH3U_hLnAyp2_HG8AnK7Lo6-FmOL6hU6qUr6r/s1600/DSC_4845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_gocHxzGOrsgijYH3vMymac7_00dM-fTo8fQ_ghTacxwaqbebW8DLxK5iYVoZG0kWdLUMC7idI7I-W1mdzSf1erI4E-NzfvoMb34agMQAH3U_hLnAyp2_HG8AnK7Lo6-FmOL6hU6qUr6r/s1600/DSC_4845.jpg" height="183" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paddling around in the water under a thick, low cloud canopy; no idea<br />
who the guy on the left was – he was not part of our group</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqizg6kxtsw5Ue40htMxZt8suw0UEAQzqqnrAb-o2VNPYSZn5zNQvVV2UpcDC1seZGqnQQhVsuijGe0FHYBiqQZbP3RFRQZyYNYvZXMxsMtdfdPuEDQYKMyLICO15SM5KjKfIM7ruTc_2g/s1600/DSC_4848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqizg6kxtsw5Ue40htMxZt8suw0UEAQzqqnrAb-o2VNPYSZn5zNQvVV2UpcDC1seZGqnQQhVsuijGe0FHYBiqQZbP3RFRQZyYNYvZXMxsMtdfdPuEDQYKMyLICO15SM5KjKfIM7ruTc_2g/s1600/DSC_4848.jpg" height="212" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking to the densely forested shoreline from the small boats</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
In time, we made our way back to the ship, where we got ourselves tidied up for the dinner after sundown. However, before that, we were afforded a real delight.A small group of bottlenose dolphins took up a post off the <i>Mariner</i>'s port bow, riding the bow wave, leaping and twirling with astonishing power and grace. From what one of the onboard naturalists told us, there was one female and three males, one substantially larger than the others. The large male was doing all he could to impress and woo the female, apparently, with the smaller males hanging back, perhaps watching his smooth moves, hoping to learn from the senior male in the group. The dolphins stayed with us for over an hour, making the crew's urgings to come to dinner go largely unheeded for at least the first 15 minutes or so! After all, you can eat any old time, but it's not every day you get to be in the company of these magnificent oceangoing mammals. Getting proper photos was a challenge for three reasons: we were on a boat going about 15-20 kts at the time, it was right around sundown, so light was very low, and there was rarely any notice when the dolphins were about to leap from the water. Out of about a dozen or so shots, only a handful ended up being of any use!<br />
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<br />
I was assigned at a table with some other voyagers and we all hit it off very well – a pair of Canadians and two Brits who had emigrated to Australia were on hand, so with that contingent and me from America, all of us at sea in New Zealand, pretty much had the entirety of the native English-speaking world covered! I wish I had gotten someone to take a picture of all of us; in hindsight, it's disappointing to not have any good photos of the people I met along the way on this trip.<br />
<br />
In any case, though, it was a remarkably good buffet dinner – this was actually a harbinger of the rest of the trip's culinary offerings. With so much clean air, pure water, and unspoiled land, and virtually no native pests to chemically eradicate, the freshness and quality of the food in New Zealand is amazing. It's not cheap, it must be said – eating out here can really dent a traveler's budget – but the caliber of food I ate at almost every meal was beyond reproach. Even a buffet dinner on a ship at sea blew me away.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhksTRB4hXfj5I_FmN3n_ozg8eARSIMvkksnjjR70bvMMC_h1b-g1KB-E7kMU7JuHDnnUrDBBRRIbry5MfhbsNlqAaEwXS7KcTlmN405DCrr_CE1sWxslUYTchJ3pK1UIxtQCsrnEa__wFn/s1600/DSC_4926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhksTRB4hXfj5I_FmN3n_ozg8eARSIMvkksnjjR70bvMMC_h1b-g1KB-E7kMU7JuHDnnUrDBBRRIbry5MfhbsNlqAaEwXS7KcTlmN405DCrr_CE1sWxslUYTchJ3pK1UIxtQCsrnEa__wFn/s1600/DSC_4926.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Remarkably
fresh and colorful veggies and NZ lamb<br />
as part of my rather impressive buffet dinner</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiabVwSym926O9s0bGdFF4prdzSUdXqlLKoy2xgKwDmA95b7Xq6uaCUtBET2y0rDaVFbTwKzgvdpa6O3ePGBaKTJRciwvi-ACn-FikMEecCLQc0Zw7MAaagWPLZokb_pLuOYXtaOSAvqNPO/s1600/DSC_4927.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiabVwSym926O9s0bGdFF4prdzSUdXqlLKoy2xgKwDmA95b7Xq6uaCUtBET2y0rDaVFbTwKzgvdpa6O3ePGBaKTJRciwvi-ACn-FikMEecCLQc0Zw7MAaagWPLZokb_pLuOYXtaOSAvqNPO/s1600/DSC_4927.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I
didn't partake in anything from this<br />
part of the dessert table, but it<br />
certainly looked great<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgQJjLtuTvrkwjXvWQxQ-1b7y_LZPNVO_DEA8YNyhxv8GBPZivTbva_h19qdI2Lj9qSRNyMEoUI8nn_OQoqd3wzaGPDk6HizkjQiyS7d_cDXytIG_nPK4dtBF51t1jgbuukZsjRBT9bmSl/s1600/DSC_4930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgQJjLtuTvrkwjXvWQxQ-1b7y_LZPNVO_DEA8YNyhxv8GBPZivTbva_h19qdI2Lj9qSRNyMEoUI8nn_OQoqd3wzaGPDk6HizkjQiyS7d_cDXytIG_nPK4dtBF51t1jgbuukZsjRBT9bmSl/s1600/DSC_4930.jpg" height="153" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This
is where I focused my post-meal attention...<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicT4bBhK41PFE47leCfiLHOsWAbvqBTBC0yJjIJfNQSn5lhgUUb8oz8IUT6Bf6IQifj7JMN91XO4OjOzgtIEW8Iwxy2b8aFPdeZ4dPEhuctitXCbX2Mc160MNmxujOESOsWfFUYRBJxTX-/s1600/DSC_4931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicT4bBhK41PFE47leCfiLHOsWAbvqBTBC0yJjIJfNQSn5lhgUUb8oz8IUT6Bf6IQifj7JMN91XO4OjOzgtIEW8Iwxy2b8aFPdeZ4dPEhuctitXCbX2Mc160MNmxujOESOsWfFUYRBJxTX-/s1600/DSC_4931.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Fresh
fruit, nuts, and cheeses – excellent!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After a restful night's sleep, breakfast the next morning was just about as impressive as dinner the night before. As we cruised Milford Sound, we saw numerous waterfalls, a wide variety of seabirds, and a platoon of playful fur seals cavorting in the chilly waters. The plan on my itinerary called for me taking a scenic private plane flight back to Queenstown, but uncooperative clouds and questionable weather coming in off the sea stymied that, so it was back on board the bus for a long ride back. On the plus side, we encountered a pair of cheeky Kea parrots on the west side approach to Homer Tunnel. Wet from the persistent mist, the parrots waddled around on the roadside and on top of cars waiting their turn to go through the tunnel. Apparently quite accustomed to parrot paparazzi, the birds did plenty of strutting and mugging for the cameras. I also got to spend a bit more time in Te Anau on the return journey, and it's a thoroughly charming town, one of the two gateways to the region. I picked up three or four bottles of various New Zealand wines here, too.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizzMElvZWL2rX6bf2kQSXqCag6czPoXhS5xpnBtbqHEZpbCg5aBk1SDJ8_lrmgWwDlyUlIEt5uJo_LRk3N5nYoDf68eiGQMhBXesLwhBaEp9ybqB1guWK2tdzxEBmrZQ3re8yd_Dcni9Ou/s1600/DSC_4917.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizzMElvZWL2rX6bf2kQSXqCag6czPoXhS5xpnBtbqHEZpbCg5aBk1SDJ8_lrmgWwDlyUlIEt5uJo_LRk3N5nYoDf68eiGQMhBXesLwhBaEp9ybqB1guWK2tdzxEBmrZQ3re8yd_Dcni9Ou/s1600/DSC_4917.jpg" height="320" width="184" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">One
of the many waterfalls we<br />
saw in Milford Sound, this one<br />
shortly after sunrise<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUXO0SEvY5VkzOD-pCc_2fT_s7l3FbyVfEb50GpBhXeGF6YcXZFt0fnasr_fB6gajAYtFnk0wrPBzZq-L49mkg0eMTIck4XR03MH3vVZhFn3FtNLDZe-16YQ-5ZJjZ3mrVe7pjdTafUwP2/s1600/DSC_4932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUXO0SEvY5VkzOD-pCc_2fT_s7l3FbyVfEb50GpBhXeGF6YcXZFt0fnasr_fB6gajAYtFnk0wrPBzZq-L49mkg0eMTIck4XR03MH3vVZhFn3FtNLDZe-16YQ-5ZJjZ3mrVe7pjdTafUwP2/s1600/DSC_4932.jpg" height="198" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A
delicious breakfast with more fresh fruit<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjYlwzSYAerTmxsDgtYfRbrTIolNi9iIGeOqk2ylW87ubueqEW374b2TgpQf_VDwBUOXD8qArmoWajOzDoL8-uYnO-DyfhEF-iu99cipeW7ZihJDODOurpslzH6S7NVkwUMlhY7K2VBeMI/s1600/DSC_4949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjYlwzSYAerTmxsDgtYfRbrTIolNi9iIGeOqk2ylW87ubueqEW374b2TgpQf_VDwBUOXD8qArmoWajOzDoL8-uYnO-DyfhEF-iu99cipeW7ZihJDODOurpslzH6S7NVkwUMlhY7K2VBeMI/s1600/DSC_4949.jpg" height="302" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Fur
seals socializing on the rocks<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8PieBlTSi0xpRedWmYJH6IJzLuQZ56P3X33zKyxM7jolpovHosvFfurpmN3dUOGE07m3s8QFkwt5XMrym1rmaLaIHieKky1wcnfaRGOqLiwKoZAzdWMao4ouBpxFWkCeRzSCudgzyn4ke/s1600/DSC_4953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8PieBlTSi0xpRedWmYJH6IJzLuQZ56P3X33zKyxM7jolpovHosvFfurpmN3dUOGE07m3s8QFkwt5XMrym1rmaLaIHieKky1wcnfaRGOqLiwKoZAzdWMao4ouBpxFWkCeRzSCudgzyn4ke/s1600/DSC_4953.jpg" height="227" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This
one reminds me of a dog scratching an itch<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfbqRb_NUhbShwSfjQq-Qg6piIQjWtRyakMG8IrRP03yiXJ3kPfwyaupZW9Bcl1UB0hXsDFTCU893VM-YHln5Gjj2QwLbj2OHiQk0Y54MlsFTL2fU7S70KNJ0V19Wqiho_-AabUPoGJGij/s1600/DSC_4955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfbqRb_NUhbShwSfjQq-Qg6piIQjWtRyakMG8IrRP03yiXJ3kPfwyaupZW9Bcl1UB0hXsDFTCU893VM-YHln5Gjj2QwLbj2OHiQk0Y54MlsFTL2fU7S70KNJ0V19Wqiho_-AabUPoGJGij/s1600/DSC_4955.jpg" height="320" width="233" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A
seal pup checking out the humans<br />
passing by<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWkCaVKtQeWPyO2Mr6DTkXutP4vFg7D_Bx-NzsM2LrPiSB37V4ZA7HeYoGL7JWfqr1bb9VFkCsiHQqrnmf0CtlUZ47-iygvt-wjdW21lDFKdZFNR_u3c-B1yjAhU7ZjnUumZ1vKPWTgQQU/s1600/DSC_4960.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWkCaVKtQeWPyO2Mr6DTkXutP4vFg7D_Bx-NzsM2LrPiSB37V4ZA7HeYoGL7JWfqr1bb9VFkCsiHQqrnmf0CtlUZ47-iygvt-wjdW21lDFKdZFNR_u3c-B1yjAhU7ZjnUumZ1vKPWTgQQU/s1600/DSC_4960.jpg" height="400" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Stirling
Falls, also called Waimanu Falls,<br />
is one of Milford Sound's two<br />
permanent waterfalls, plunging<br />
151m (almost 500 feet)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVZTDx_1dZim441tD250UTvVWi1K-wqORnkFES3wAfmwUZn0OP49N3jJLLejRxxjfQ0faNUJ4mDtFM9DeZJCIhqke9CsrSdpFcmu1vq8gG7cVo1GRLNQCcULOzkqwhID6jvsh4RBZSUqAh/s1600/DSC_4961.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVZTDx_1dZim441tD250UTvVWi1K-wqORnkFES3wAfmwUZn0OP49N3jJLLejRxxjfQ0faNUJ4mDtFM9DeZJCIhqke9CsrSdpFcmu1vq8gG7cVo1GRLNQCcULOzkqwhID6jvsh4RBZSUqAh/s1600/DSC_4961.jpg" height="400" width="363" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Getting
closer to Stirling Falls... it's supposed to be good<br />
luck (or something) to navigate into the mist from a waterfall,<br />
so that's what our captain did<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg73dHXqyW2agFELp8tT2RuhHfRnUrxqEEjZDodxJ9QB7qtV4Y4BRUUosyWDT4nMDMTwnJWSQ15VDJmwoLfQKXkzoVw2KeSGD7rs5ct32se7pI9_Bnyqos84H-4p8UAvOrSCUk6hqAD-vUb/s1600/DSC_4974.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg73dHXqyW2agFELp8tT2RuhHfRnUrxqEEjZDodxJ9QB7qtV4Y4BRUUosyWDT4nMDMTwnJWSQ15VDJmwoLfQKXkzoVw2KeSGD7rs5ct32se7pI9_Bnyqos84H-4p8UAvOrSCUk6hqAD-vUb/s1600/DSC_4974.jpg" height="193" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Misty
veils of morning clouds in Milford Sound<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHwGLm9bxCixZaCUNpxfrwEaCrb6y5hUErZEXtUOsPAgERXy3I-Tde29qPI6CcW88gpctllhhPILtI3kWg_3HDV_GyXvTVGXkpSCRPkmTzQ5b5jRaur9PojG6WHDRAB0-uttPu_rbDV8ei/s1600/DSC_4986.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHwGLm9bxCixZaCUNpxfrwEaCrb6y5hUErZEXtUOsPAgERXy3I-Tde29qPI6CcW88gpctllhhPILtI3kWg_3HDV_GyXvTVGXkpSCRPkmTzQ5b5jRaur9PojG6WHDRAB0-uttPu_rbDV8ei/s1600/DSC_4986.jpg" height="400" width="383" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Another
magnificent waterfall glimpsed as we<br />
were nearing port<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-3vr-mgoKdVAWxSZUf4qxYh_vL5z-i2Ci3qi4fv5Em60HYWGgWWf-Wcajb3PYAE-PqKGaDPgDpjrVgA7LgaflpSsAm4DRzhDPj4OFK5Se2aliNLhIQBG9NkOLFCLRT7v7iPOKFW49Vzhz/s1600/DSC_4992.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-3vr-mgoKdVAWxSZUf4qxYh_vL5z-i2Ci3qi4fv5Em60HYWGgWWf-Wcajb3PYAE-PqKGaDPgDpjrVgA7LgaflpSsAm4DRzhDPj4OFK5Se2aliNLhIQBG9NkOLFCLRT7v7iPOKFW49Vzhz/s1600/DSC_4992.jpg" height="258" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="padding: 3.0pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A
wet Kea on the road at Homer Tunnel<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih4TJJZMTaiI95CP5Su1doyy4piMNLJut-IZLthoT1QzfNx1MgmL5aVpu1ALzkSKm09gvwEC5GMBV0N9xus1AWcFa59HrKDkqqqkupjqdAw0jt98qtTZAGUO__M5pjvA7YaOASxP8AS1zA/s1600/DSC_4993.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih4TJJZMTaiI95CP5Su1doyy4piMNLJut-IZLthoT1QzfNx1MgmL5aVpu1ALzkSKm09gvwEC5GMBV0N9xus1AWcFa59HrKDkqqqkupjqdAw0jt98qtTZAGUO__M5pjvA7YaOASxP8AS1zA/s1600/DSC_4993.jpg" height="251" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Another
Kea, the world's southernmost parrot species<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwlJI5zfzAiuEH1O8r7LLLwYTmtMYi5TNsrxRIhOodZZaljkyqH5Pc2FH6a6sfR6gEHAAaM-Kv417X1HiUz0EUJsOYLX97bdRc7L7acSnUdx_CorPt7tsRX_5Y2JSoEIkmb5YjQe9WLo9q/s1600/DSC_4995.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwlJI5zfzAiuEH1O8r7LLLwYTmtMYi5TNsrxRIhOodZZaljkyqH5Pc2FH6a6sfR6gEHAAaM-Kv417X1HiUz0EUJsOYLX97bdRc7L7acSnUdx_CorPt7tsRX_5Y2JSoEIkmb5YjQe9WLo9q/s1600/DSC_4995.jpg" height="159" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Dealing with the parrot
paparazzi... </span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">all in a day's work for this Kea<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibsLiF1w6hjsAqxMPrdcY29z4v560bgPPmXfVlNc7bLHy42uGVF67ihJ9BqUSteCOuhKBlGg2WveVy2d6HSlS9Qf1rFWMC3JNs796V1rXZCDOa-ylhouzjOO3hwk6wjJD-MqDUSv-BxaPk/s1600/DSC_5000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibsLiF1w6hjsAqxMPrdcY29z4v560bgPPmXfVlNc7bLHy42uGVF67ihJ9BqUSteCOuhKBlGg2WveVy2d6HSlS9Qf1rFWMC3JNs796V1rXZCDOa-ylhouzjOO3hwk6wjJD-MqDUSv-BxaPk/s1600/DSC_5000.jpg" height="201" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Lakeside
scene in laid-back Te Anau<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTI0egikZLMrn1DMhDcTZr1UEGzI_lghChMk-uzIpwdFf-Wo26UQFIq7mbgD8gTVwlu4LAxin3_Z7Z51OeYH9AMhbJKUk46IdyDDZq74lYfdYxLESLFRaaz0vSAlFVEI3CYComR_kcZiL/s1600/DSC_5003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTI0egikZLMrn1DMhDcTZr1UEGzI_lghChMk-uzIpwdFf-Wo26UQFIq7mbgD8gTVwlu4LAxin3_Z7Z51OeYH9AMhbJKUk46IdyDDZq74lYfdYxLESLFRaaz0vSAlFVEI3CYComR_kcZiL/s1600/DSC_5003.jpg" height="228" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Walking
around Te Anau during our time there, this was a<br />
typical neighborhood scene on a mostly cloudy early autumn day<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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I think I'll stop this entry here and put the rest of the trip into a second entry. It's already written, and the photos selected, it's just too long overall for one blog post! I'll still need to caption the photos and get everything laid out. In the next part, though, I'll cover the rest of my time in Queenstown – ziplining and a tour of several wineries among the highlights – and the trip by car from Queenstown to Christchurch. Stay tuned!<br />
<br />Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-85021463534064383182014-04-21T09:22:00.000-06:002014-04-21T10:33:38.886-06:00Incredible Barcelona<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuesBF00DV9AnGTpdBjPg5AnOXZqBNL-3kAa5yEJ9WWmbFnd3_3uSXePop0x13yyGOx0CW8OW3ny3m8tEClvF8zx-K_ViBziWFWzcpZ7gOUVFA8pRjnXuAMuMMLQlfNH7dyeJ5jYDmsBs7/s1600/DSC_3511.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuesBF00DV9AnGTpdBjPg5AnOXZqBNL-3kAa5yEJ9WWmbFnd3_3uSXePop0x13yyGOx0CW8OW3ny3m8tEClvF8zx-K_ViBziWFWzcpZ7gOUVFA8pRjnXuAMuMMLQlfNH7dyeJ5jYDmsBs7/s1600/DSC_3511.jpg" height="320" width="235" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">One of the many gobsmacking fruit<br />
displays at La Boqueria</td></tr>
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"When you're in Barcelona," my assistant at work emphasized, having been there herself, "you have to go to La Boqueria, and you have to go twice."<br />
<br />
Well let me tell you, friends and neighbors, she was right. She was right about Barcelona being an amazing city in general, and she was spot-on about La Boqueria. It's an immense market in the heart of the city, ranked by CNN as one of the top 10 markets on the planet, and on an initial visit, it's sheer sensory overload. The sights, the sounds, the smells... I just pointed my Nikon and clicked indiscriminately, probably with my mouth hanging slightly agape the whole time. I was incapable of anything more than the most basic of reconnaissance on the first visit. More on La Boqueria later, though.<br />
<br />
Barcelona was the companion destination on my European escape which began in Paris. (Or perhaps it should be the other way around, as I spent more time in Barcelona than in Paris!) I booked travel on the high-speed French TGV train from Paris, a service which just began in December 2013, and arrived at Barcelona-Sants station just six comfortable hours later. There, I made my way to what was a very nice "home away from home" for the next five nights. I was most fortunate to be offered a corporate-owned luxury apartment in which to stay. At some 1,800 sq ft, it was of course much too big for just one person, but it was oh-so-comfortable nonetheless. It was particularly beguiling in the mornings, as I would cook my breakfast, make a cup of coffee with the French press, and look out over the adjacent park at sunrise. The apartment was in easy walking distance to the park, the zoo, the whole of the Born District, the harbor and beach of the Mediterranean, and much more, including La Rambla, the most famous street in the city.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRUgC7i7AZnvfXkrnQpp1mig2xSjDU-Z_jQPzaF9eeozm_pBn_qrAkBHP3tPf9O6uv0WeRrsJwp4Sl2VWT5J8tfi_lZuC0wFrs5VoWUWatPADYX17PBh_G3VQR7bvcCxWCDEfWY8MRaMi/s1600/DSC_3516.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRUgC7i7AZnvfXkrnQpp1mig2xSjDU-Z_jQPzaF9eeozm_pBn_qrAkBHP3tPf9O6uv0WeRrsJwp4Sl2VWT5J8tfi_lZuC0wFrs5VoWUWatPADYX17PBh_G3VQR7bvcCxWCDEfWY8MRaMi/s1600/DSC_3516.jpg" height="320" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My kitchen for a week! Nice, right?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7BkwaBYNNlaLowcdYOlcLyS3eh6MHzEdiFKQue054UIzChqBbETtYg2SPl3dm2cqtU3cIS-4g4709Gc90wLLZvz747-Ts935uDlOvW164ItZoJt-JiiNPIQRptEJJZHIz9MI4YnTC6qoe/s1600/DSC_3528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7BkwaBYNNlaLowcdYOlcLyS3eh6MHzEdiFKQue054UIzChqBbETtYg2SPl3dm2cqtU3cIS-4g4709Gc90wLLZvz747-Ts935uDlOvW164ItZoJt-JiiNPIQRptEJJZHIz9MI4YnTC6qoe/s1600/DSC_3528.jpg" height="220" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's the dining area and the living room</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAbzQQ1MFkQrjVauvY18w-NVEDRteaL94u6dMolG-qu-es_x_rnsKlCp7CKPOgJputKnZL1cs31kJCahJZB5-esKwVVqEERVjbbo8mUpSH5BMfUo2Se8gC-yDfH941j0PoEP34y6OSKsep/s1600/DSC_3524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAbzQQ1MFkQrjVauvY18w-NVEDRteaL94u6dMolG-qu-es_x_rnsKlCp7CKPOgJputKnZL1cs31kJCahJZB5-esKwVVqEERVjbbo8mUpSH5BMfUo2Se8gC-yDfH941j0PoEP34y6OSKsep/s1600/DSC_3524.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The master bedroom... probably the only<br />
thing I didn't care for was the rather<br />
out-of-place animal pelt on the floor</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiamEY23lxDc4g3zG2FCfVe-Njn4VCAAFG0vhsPRB-4qNh3A80igpsW6wRNmUsHVC-d4Rrfi98eeM4-tn8CbRQEphzJrzX58Jbpoo5pmc2nt7SKk443Vl-ZO5bfZnnyooHKEyqnv9SWc6ma/s1600/DSC_3523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiamEY23lxDc4g3zG2FCfVe-Njn4VCAAFG0vhsPRB-4qNh3A80igpsW6wRNmUsHVC-d4Rrfi98eeM4-tn8CbRQEphzJrzX58Jbpoo5pmc2nt7SKk443Vl-ZO5bfZnnyooHKEyqnv9SWc6ma/s1600/DSC_3523.jpg" height="320" width="218" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exposed brick, big timbers, and<br />
top-quality fixtures and fittings...<br />
loved the master bathroom!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtVAIEGTX3sTtocS-NyWbI138RlK8YBfcU-XxnVt7Rdxja-67iSClSKdL4Uu8YWTpz1AvrU3_kxnRAM8B6P_J8AvRrw2q480gwAZgXdTxkmj9PMtdByPvbCTYDUtjQKQ7SKRsdSq8eqJpS/s1600/DSC_3520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtVAIEGTX3sTtocS-NyWbI138RlK8YBfcU-XxnVt7Rdxja-67iSClSKdL4Uu8YWTpz1AvrU3_kxnRAM8B6P_J8AvRrw2q480gwAZgXdTxkmj9PMtdByPvbCTYDUtjQKQ7SKRsdSq8eqJpS/s1600/DSC_3520.jpg" height="320" width="207" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was the bedroom I didn't use...<br />
just walked in, snapped a picture,<br />
and that was that!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAlx2_p4kPT4782cYToy4Q01EHPVgmAuNh798bEfplLXaVeJB9-j1xTZZonztGliPYvgwjSUmcMtAg6tmjCm02Juz8eQxsG-VKnHYJRxP8dv8IpJeYHvpLvHTVb0aJJseFf2PN5HF_smo5/s1600/DSC_3519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAlx2_p4kPT4782cYToy4Q01EHPVgmAuNh798bEfplLXaVeJB9-j1xTZZonztGliPYvgwjSUmcMtAg6tmjCm02Juz8eQxsG-VKnHYJRxP8dv8IpJeYHvpLvHTVb0aJJseFf2PN5HF_smo5/s1600/DSC_3519.jpg" height="320" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A truly beautiful, comfortable place to have as my base</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxaD1wZnCVJAA9eT4IjUiVb8S_zWL0lMK0AZ6OqtC5e0eGiBp-nOr6B9s8AarFlBzHOYtKoiVElkpAsREaQ4MEAhqp2DrXbUWCQRcUSHQJR0sfYeUijKFBwT_EYyTd9xDvh9kPpb9UE6cJ/s1600/DSC_3462.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxaD1wZnCVJAA9eT4IjUiVb8S_zWL0lMK0AZ6OqtC5e0eGiBp-nOr6B9s8AarFlBzHOYtKoiVElkpAsREaQ4MEAhqp2DrXbUWCQRcUSHQJR0sfYeUijKFBwT_EYyTd9xDvh9kPpb9UE6cJ/s1600/DSC_3462.jpg" height="320" width="278" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was the fiery sunrise over the park one<br />
morning, snapped from the apartment's kitchen</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE8CccIGVNtmfxJtU8F9Yq1IXGNLgauZ7kxR3I7SinShkc14R_IMN482Y8w6TSYfHHiu4s4d-hV2H1rlpHryTB5LcVB8hxj33ue4EiFVIBeEIt6-nXEK8CJWI12AuW11JlB99Ijst4JRwx/s1600/IMG_20140201_084251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE8CccIGVNtmfxJtU8F9Yq1IXGNLgauZ7kxR3I7SinShkc14R_IMN482Y8w6TSYfHHiu4s4d-hV2H1rlpHryTB5LcVB8hxj33ue4EiFVIBeEIt6-nXEK8CJWI12AuW11JlB99Ijst4JRwx/s1600/IMG_20140201_084251.jpg" height="320" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And this was my morning ritual...<br />
Really a nice way to start the day!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I was quite unaware of Barcelona's incredibly rich historical tapestry, going all the way back to the third century (and even further back, really), encompassing Catalonia and Iberia, and sweeping in such well-known names as Christopher Columbus and Antoni Gaudí along the way. I took a fascinating walking tour (Sandeman's New Europe tour) on a perfect sunny day with a sky so blue it almost defied belief, had an outstanding guide, met some great new people, and learned tons, most of which, unfortunately, was promptly forgotten. A particularly astute historian, I am not. I also made a booking for their excellent tapas tour, which took place later during my stay. One treat was seeing a couple of impromptu circle dances in front of a beautiful cathedral. The dance is called the <i>sardana</i> and it's deceptively complex, employing a highly structured pattern of moves and rhythms, set to a particular style of music played by a small 12-piece ensemble called a <i>cobla</i>, comprising 10 wind instruments, a double bass, and a small drum called a <i>tamborí</i>. The 12 instruments are collectively played by only 11 musicians, so I'm not sure who ends up doing double duty, but it was a remarkable cultural moment to happen upon. I do think the ensemble on hand for what we saw was more of a mini-orchestra, however, as they had brass instruments, and I don't believe a traditional <i>cobla </i>has these.<br />
<br />
The cathedral in front of which all this was taking place is gorgeous, a 14th-century gem built in honor of the co-patron saint of Barcelona, a young virgin named Eulalia who was martyred in the 4th century, but whose absurd tale didn't manage to get dreamed up and recorded until some 800 years later. The story, certainly fictional, goes that this 12-year-old girl was subjected to 13 separate tortures for her steadfast refusal to renounce her Christianity, including being flogged, placed in a barrel with knives and/or glass and rolled down a hill, doused with boiling oil, covered in molten lead, and several even more gruesome acts. In a medical miracle, the young girl survived all of this and was thrown into prison, where she was (of course) later freed by an angel. If all this doesn't suggest that the story is at least partly fanciful, consider the fact that it's almost identical to another patron saint, this one of Mérida, and in both stories, a dove was involved. In the Barcelona tale, the dove emerged and flew from the girl's neck upon her decapitation, which of course took place after her crucifixion (which she apparently survived, as well). In the Mérida tale, the dove flew out of the girl's mouth at the moment of her death. Macabre, right? Amazing what you can learn on these walking tours! Anyway, we all had a bit of a chuckle (apparently no devout Catholics in our group), enjoyed the genuinely incredible architecture, and left it at that!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgObb1rnENUpBTqmbFsWOgqrrscYq0xeQz6WmSx2c3oXPfhh_Kpnfk2FiMkh-_cQosIjS6pADY4INnq9h1rgGZ0dJlkFE1Dg-7TRdSmJ1W0s-mKSJaPmIC3seWOWF9ReVrc1VFFtfYAcNkG/s1600/DSC_3571.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgObb1rnENUpBTqmbFsWOgqrrscYq0xeQz6WmSx2c3oXPfhh_Kpnfk2FiMkh-_cQosIjS6pADY4INnq9h1rgGZ0dJlkFE1Dg-7TRdSmJ1W0s-mKSJaPmIC3seWOWF9ReVrc1VFFtfYAcNkG/s1600/DSC_3571.jpg" height="320" width="219" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barcelona's stunning Cathedral<br />
of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia,<br />
built primarily in the 13th and 14th<br />
centuries with a neo-Gothic façade </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk8-v2zgGX9R_lHEGSVl9POjZ29fbptQ54V-De8NTRjCMprF0ErpoZH0YIP0vJbdlyjhhDBrUkk_4k2GG4AIXY0jK6GuPzt5R7cyzEPr5lk6XK-7O6m7dbRetXEZHTaQJQ4jkcpu3cWgSk/s1600/DSC_3575.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk8-v2zgGX9R_lHEGSVl9POjZ29fbptQ54V-De8NTRjCMprF0ErpoZH0YIP0vJbdlyjhhDBrUkk_4k2GG4AIXY0jK6GuPzt5R7cyzEPr5lk6XK-7O6m7dbRetXEZHTaQJQ4jkcpu3cWgSk/s1600/DSC_3575.jpg" height="320" width="242" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A small orchestra called a <i>cobla</i> was playing<br />
traditional Catalan dance music<br />
on the day of our tour</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiypX6H1W5z2qUjx1ZQi80qXrJ8UI-4RFvEJJUAowrWs3hvNvSuzrmG8SKC5DGIWfHnyaENvDddtHNoHjazz9bAfh-v51HSTy9Miv44W0yGZXUFXDK5uaeh_x5Ys5gXK9ttwX72hgr63Zqk/s1600/DSC_3580.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiypX6H1W5z2qUjx1ZQi80qXrJ8UI-4RFvEJJUAowrWs3hvNvSuzrmG8SKC5DGIWfHnyaENvDddtHNoHjazz9bAfh-v51HSTy9Miv44W0yGZXUFXDK5uaeh_x5Ys5gXK9ttwX72hgr63Zqk/s1600/DSC_3580.jpg" height="265" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A traditional (and complex) Catalan circle dance called<br />
the <i>sardana</i>. Why does the woman facing the camera<br />
look so miserable, though? Maybe she's struggling<br />
to remember all the steps correctly!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgypmAz5I8jlK3y8kUO1tOwxR3Y6O_TxQYwMPj4AG2LgkvFRF9nWVtJHol-1rfAW8BHw3gOx0l4HvhB48gUhNZiG15d9YtCKDiueS8oEDwk2jeeEutDS72l5xRVxoKP07q-iPwvX0eDK-26/s1600/DSC_3587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgypmAz5I8jlK3y8kUO1tOwxR3Y6O_TxQYwMPj4AG2LgkvFRF9nWVtJHol-1rfAW8BHw3gOx0l4HvhB48gUhNZiG15d9YtCKDiueS8oEDwk2jeeEutDS72l5xRVxoKP07q-iPwvX0eDK-26/s1600/DSC_3587.jpg" height="229" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was interesting: graffiti in the city was virtually<br />
always limited only to the shutters of shops, never on the<br />
adjacent buildings themselves</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXtZzHrvHFvJvZvjseQVmliklWVLO0Wa2j1hlYX3PprJG479ql9ArMsjIpU1C9VhM9rEdlQ2X0ccpcVZkZI_rcHu0HDEPWeF5Sfy2QaDhNbd8vFvW3UpnB3D-LJzOWsI-KwkcRkmlwgbJT/s1600/DSC_3633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXtZzHrvHFvJvZvjseQVmliklWVLO0Wa2j1hlYX3PprJG479ql9ArMsjIpU1C9VhM9rEdlQ2X0ccpcVZkZI_rcHu0HDEPWeF5Sfy2QaDhNbd8vFvW3UpnB3D-LJzOWsI-KwkcRkmlwgbJT/s1600/DSC_3633.jpg" height="206" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I wasn't kidding about the blue sky!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8PqUJr5EPuhNju9nWuoQTy1bLkRrQBVdfz8bAClmQcfatzCpa7H1NY0wNpIm_rQ1uhwgXdz5sgm-CvyeyMwa23knQLZDsUHCXggIig2UZUXw2b3QpTK8NdVA3nEq92dawCC-NQ1naG-U/s1600/DSC_3652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8PqUJr5EPuhNju9nWuoQTy1bLkRrQBVdfz8bAClmQcfatzCpa7H1NY0wNpIm_rQ1uhwgXdz5sgm-CvyeyMwa23knQLZDsUHCXggIig2UZUXw2b3QpTK8NdVA3nEq92dawCC-NQ1naG-U/s1600/DSC_3652.jpg" height="320" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A typical apartment building in the<br />
Born District</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeoa2q7arX8vfqvRGHB8inYbPRP9TFZzWCsMm1RehT9KqFFh40Q8BOqo-1YNoxdHXRziIP8jDP03TrUNBp1Ztsu-IPcyf__cdIsSfT4Th9gtNdYSvUSeg8Q9sYbKHuSMjamMnYNgSj1VeS/s1600/DSC_3725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeoa2q7arX8vfqvRGHB8inYbPRP9TFZzWCsMm1RehT9KqFFh40Q8BOqo-1YNoxdHXRziIP8jDP03TrUNBp1Ztsu-IPcyf__cdIsSfT4Th9gtNdYSvUSeg8Q9sYbKHuSMjamMnYNgSj1VeS/s1600/DSC_3725.jpg" height="320" width="196" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 1884 statue of Antonio<br />
Lopez y Lopez, the first Marquis<br />
of Comillas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnC0TldoLgGpethyNcAEGGmcbu3GeIx3RQfsolKeHQzMMPb2yk9F7uSys7GHgWN5PfEw9w0JO-lGILkZeYtJOmE2IOOlLZcUbbjCBiFgzADD1zMZ8_9DSQab8Dr2L63phCWKiOqX4qAcTI/s1600/DSC_3659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnC0TldoLgGpethyNcAEGGmcbu3GeIx3RQfsolKeHQzMMPb2yk9F7uSys7GHgWN5PfEw9w0JO-lGILkZeYtJOmE2IOOlLZcUbbjCBiFgzADD1zMZ8_9DSQab8Dr2L63phCWKiOqX4qAcTI/s1600/DSC_3659.jpg" height="230" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our knowledgeable and riotously funny guide Leon, far right,<br />
regales us with a lengthy and humorous poem of his<br />
own composition at the conclusion of our walking tour</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The weather in Barcelona was markedly different from what I had experienced in Paris. Though the temperature wasn't all that much higher (usually low to mid-50s, or around 10-12°C), there was plenty of bright sunshine and an abundance of clear blue skies, which made it much more enjoyable. In fact, it only rained one day out of the six I was there. One day, about midway through my stay and after I had developed enough confidence in my ability to navigate the neighborhood successfully, I made my way to the beach nearby and enjoyed strolling along the Mediterranean under a brilliant blue sky lashed with cirrus clouds. Mind you, it was still nowhere near "warm" in early February, and most of the trees were bereft of any foliage, but a blue sky and a sunny day makes everything better, and even with a jacket and scarf on, it was good to be on the beach! Later, on the walk back to the apartment, I stopped by a Greek restaurant (of all things) and had some great food... flavor-packed lamb and beef <i>gyros</i>, a bit of <i>souvlaki</i>, some pita bread, and a short pint of crisp Mythos, a pretty decent Hellenic pale lager from Greece's second-largest brewery, you know... just across the Med!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmU0TsrTV23AODrDD2GWS9MRUitTeJINuFl15FRY_LrPrA5pYl519c35uwmIk7Q_pMiVeTrpRkaMMWR2sXRLC-5sLcAEcJlJT0n2NUFsYw6HrBAjGfSRF7Pv1UibG4Lv0vOZdtxcaRJY34/s1600/DSC_3391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmU0TsrTV23AODrDD2GWS9MRUitTeJINuFl15FRY_LrPrA5pYl519c35uwmIk7Q_pMiVeTrpRkaMMWR2sXRLC-5sLcAEcJlJT0n2NUFsYw6HrBAjGfSRF7Pv1UibG4Lv0vOZdtxcaRJY34/s1600/DSC_3391.jpg" height="320" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The zoology museum of Barcelona,<br />
called the <i>Castel dels Tres Dragons</i><br />
in the <i>Parc de la Ciutadella</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-xhhjczhWAXhqkyDmpduQZdVbynlXEdKtarwU6sVgM2FGwIpmDrHUcMJmq-8470tqosHgkRrxVuXERM7uJbBUMD95P20qrR5HdQjoG2DHrwhZRI5njrl599ByeuCAPo9FYcOj2SPCH6fe/s1600/DSC_3392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-xhhjczhWAXhqkyDmpduQZdVbynlXEdKtarwU6sVgM2FGwIpmDrHUcMJmq-8470tqosHgkRrxVuXERM7uJbBUMD95P20qrR5HdQjoG2DHrwhZRI5njrl599ByeuCAPo9FYcOj2SPCH6fe/s1600/DSC_3392.jpg" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another building at the park... really no idea what this<br />
one is and cannot seem to find any information on it</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHmJqsg4vV2YvxIuifsZEh0e4AA4Jh-nQUy8wJR-7OXEaaJ4B_yMASu2MXPfuKNQUQ_S2dQ4jUrwh_27XRmk7hzw-HI_V9OXpQzqd4swbAdv07uBBSXW_FrkkSXSEP5sZyGFHco-EHU8v5/s1600/DSC_3398.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHmJqsg4vV2YvxIuifsZEh0e4AA4Jh-nQUy8wJR-7OXEaaJ4B_yMASu2MXPfuKNQUQ_S2dQ4jUrwh_27XRmk7hzw-HI_V9OXpQzqd4swbAdv07uBBSXW_FrkkSXSEP5sZyGFHco-EHU8v5/s1600/DSC_3398.jpg" height="320" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barcelona's immensely popular and<br />
successful bicycling initiative, sadly<br />
for residents only</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBGQ3pzWCGVzLIDa1YT-7tOcVCMGYHvaIoqnYleJ88YCzpEkOUpLBfn-mQX-qbc2Ey1lKK9zb9YUWZCIt-loYAI-gdibIczzdO5vaz7Lr0gUqLYD5M7bBUs6Fj8mWHalPLy5POeWWnXIKs/s1600/DSC_3406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBGQ3pzWCGVzLIDa1YT-7tOcVCMGYHvaIoqnYleJ88YCzpEkOUpLBfn-mQX-qbc2Ey1lKK9zb9YUWZCIt-loYAI-gdibIczzdO5vaz7Lr0gUqLYD5M7bBUs6Fj8mWHalPLy5POeWWnXIKs/s1600/DSC_3406.jpg" height="233" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Barcelona <i>Arc de Triomf</i>, built for the<br />
1888 Universal Exhibition</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB7k8h2S0Kz8jawMmMPqqexl6gU5P1Z1PYyh0YLEP7ZuY6E1PRzchhAyFjMD1DQqoxmKWmvHtQcJyxViIofp8Byse0Xki_pHgPZ0gYkpEMCZEdAXpFJja1Y4atGooGltFJyQBVTF4cgvME/s1600/DSC_3411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB7k8h2S0Kz8jawMmMPqqexl6gU5P1Z1PYyh0YLEP7ZuY6E1PRzchhAyFjMD1DQqoxmKWmvHtQcJyxViIofp8Byse0Xki_pHgPZ0gYkpEMCZEdAXpFJja1Y4atGooGltFJyQBVTF4cgvME/s1600/DSC_3411.jpg" height="320" width="224" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street scene, with people enjoying<br />
the mild midwinter day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6JzQWufmE5KAgtAuOGXTUY187JqJV_LkCN5TUhYqtTMFsNVsc0hlgtkamlzL8Pb386DacnOOeJaWMIOSBsY68FlNB2hfiP_HfAt-BKFsdpBG_y3RJRPAa3ldvtimRaQgt-yApXyuDMv46/s1600/DSC_3418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6JzQWufmE5KAgtAuOGXTUY187JqJV_LkCN5TUhYqtTMFsNVsc0hlgtkamlzL8Pb386DacnOOeJaWMIOSBsY68FlNB2hfiP_HfAt-BKFsdpBG_y3RJRPAa3ldvtimRaQgt-yApXyuDMv46/s1600/DSC_3418.jpg" height="320" width="184" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the tree laden with oranges</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4HQjMAsYxhOGOsI91Q1zIN2xN7LeStnJQg7OAUbmX-Hl1Nk2E1cnUdlpXja5FMulVDltZ5FWZw9z7UR8C6qKZky4SbPvOKgoGJ8oaJnnXiURJUvGQqjwrjB2WRDB1v5jvbk0eHjrePRrD/s1600/DSC_3422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4HQjMAsYxhOGOsI91Q1zIN2xN7LeStnJQg7OAUbmX-Hl1Nk2E1cnUdlpXja5FMulVDltZ5FWZw9z7UR8C6qKZky4SbPvOKgoGJ8oaJnnXiURJUvGQqjwrjB2WRDB1v5jvbk0eHjrePRrD/s1600/DSC_3422.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No idea what building this is, but<br />
I loved the architecture</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOnmmcqKxVLD8rSXU4RazqtEy6lxkphJ8mrWtTKlzjn7_FHgrN0F8hUOXmTZR1GM1cBOiTP_sUjlgPpiuRh-7WG6243UWFyaveD1tPr1DyMyJb2zJv3oscXFp14EpyvS7sV5KcMRF-2P_3/s1600/DSC_3440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOnmmcqKxVLD8rSXU4RazqtEy6lxkphJ8mrWtTKlzjn7_FHgrN0F8hUOXmTZR1GM1cBOiTP_sUjlgPpiuRh-7WG6243UWFyaveD1tPr1DyMyJb2zJv3oscXFp14EpyvS7sV5KcMRF-2P_3/s1600/DSC_3440.jpg" height="289" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The park is home to many hundreds of these Monk parakeets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW5cDVH1pBpzOJZVDvwlDGk3Q_CoKcarX12MTNbLaRjFQHTFfJ_TDkJYToEsAhWVFOI8Nq19vuh-aVWpB1-k9ecAmgq2vOywovk3B1oL832E6h-pj-ppUcexCH9DIkBbsbLmg605IrrujT/s1600/DSC_3442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW5cDVH1pBpzOJZVDvwlDGk3Q_CoKcarX12MTNbLaRjFQHTFfJ_TDkJYToEsAhWVFOI8Nq19vuh-aVWpB1-k9ecAmgq2vOywovk3B1oL832E6h-pj-ppUcexCH9DIkBbsbLmg605IrrujT/s1600/DSC_3442.jpg" height="320" width="217" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angry Birds! The population of feral<br />
Monk parakeets is thought to<br />
number about 2,500 in Barcelona</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAOjWTnAChmpeOScq1q2WETb2KP4oLPsgqwih32l1P68hqSJOR5WNDGi8n1n9p8requ-C-CB60GFfin-gNSZTkTsWuOAsSqcyjdSwXH9Ani0npXRwEfV643kH0YWCMTrHhlQRqNBzjonxi/s1600/DSC_3675.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAOjWTnAChmpeOScq1q2WETb2KP4oLPsgqwih32l1P68hqSJOR5WNDGi8n1n9p8requ-C-CB60GFfin-gNSZTkTsWuOAsSqcyjdSwXH9Ani0npXRwEfV643kH0YWCMTrHhlQRqNBzjonxi/s1600/DSC_3675.jpg" height="241" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The park's large fountain, <i>Cascada</i>, designed by Josep Fontserè and his<br />
young, then-unknown student Antoni Gaudí</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglYgLO8bn5OTKvvLYYSS4ryAdYjVBhYoRkAxRcG21VYIwjPv4ogAhyphenhyphenZmYwYz5vpCQazbnH8UJ7MT7qMXizhheBUkzUpHHJdJIeHWeMZ8lFwtkvl46KU3I9Qme_7nln1Ov09RO_ugGxPbvq/s1600/DSC_3448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglYgLO8bn5OTKvvLYYSS4ryAdYjVBhYoRkAxRcG21VYIwjPv4ogAhyphenhyphenZmYwYz5vpCQazbnH8UJ7MT7qMXizhheBUkzUpHHJdJIeHWeMZ8lFwtkvl46KU3I9Qme_7nln1Ov09RO_ugGxPbvq/s1600/DSC_3448.jpg" height="320" width="208" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A café in the Gothic District all<br />
ready for evening diners</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSeMJXZReQXZQZ63A3WZPm-6PqnhfEJQkWSnCz6oFommmVROHWRc3AGESXeDzWhhntAMEgcTUqwNiXn2isVJ8Fna6XaNcioL2GuNcrXzir4zYPovFHuTBqSulzG8xSQoWF25rPrKY4Hec/s1600/DSC_3451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSeMJXZReQXZQZ63A3WZPm-6PqnhfEJQkWSnCz6oFommmVROHWRc3AGESXeDzWhhntAMEgcTUqwNiXn2isVJ8Fna6XaNcioL2GuNcrXzir4zYPovFHuTBqSulzG8xSQoWF25rPrKY4Hec/s1600/DSC_3451.jpg" height="400" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The entrance to the apartment<br />
building where I stayed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyggq9GjRMRlVK4eK_hpCBMMe74cvDklwmQNu9FPnS_g5SHAbFPCwKXz2qsPtAnMs-teysbb3Cz4oPxu4X_iEur3Pkwlxzbd4V1nwBEWCCDH-wc4Oer7-sRNzDjo7nHBnBwheklCQdg0AJ/s1600/DSC_3471.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyggq9GjRMRlVK4eK_hpCBMMe74cvDklwmQNu9FPnS_g5SHAbFPCwKXz2qsPtAnMs-teysbb3Cz4oPxu4X_iEur3Pkwlxzbd4V1nwBEWCCDH-wc4Oer7-sRNzDjo7nHBnBwheklCQdg0AJ/s1600/DSC_3471.jpg" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emblazoned on the tapas bar's window seems to be<br />
the key to Barcelona's immense appeal: Drink. Food. Life.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNGSif_-t7-doArgjQ5_W1hqgxd-tvydRTdYGwRoCEoDYPdujDnjI-hGICVnz_PljAy_WVCbJ8IH1QZH6v6HkHFrDXJ7ZBOWSCByijp8L4VRTz5mZ-owfBe-1E_P0FJMbx6I8yK5q-HY_S/s1600/DSC_3472.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNGSif_-t7-doArgjQ5_W1hqgxd-tvydRTdYGwRoCEoDYPdujDnjI-hGICVnz_PljAy_WVCbJ8IH1QZH6v6HkHFrDXJ7ZBOWSCByijp8L4VRTz5mZ-owfBe-1E_P0FJMbx6I8yK5q-HY_S/s1600/DSC_3472.jpg" height="400" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This one was nice... not far from the apartment<br />
and great happy hour specials. On the sign<br />
to the left of the door: <i>Todo hecho casero<br />y con mucho amor</i>, basically saying everything<br />
here is homemade with love.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPCNY8-5aVPS15lKy7hm7LCOAgSFQuTwHMGwFE3Jpwz5vvAvIZKujAmjUapOOqMDufJgMfgT2iKqEx4yvt2JnDvDmLNsKjEVV68Np2FEmhNjmcH4wT8YBoY5W84y8nCSAmqQd_cuMMp4p/s1600/DSC_3475.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPCNY8-5aVPS15lKy7hm7LCOAgSFQuTwHMGwFE3Jpwz5vvAvIZKujAmjUapOOqMDufJgMfgT2iKqEx4yvt2JnDvDmLNsKjEVV68Np2FEmhNjmcH4wT8YBoY5W84y8nCSAmqQd_cuMMp4p/s1600/DSC_3475.jpg" height="199" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Again, not really clear who this is, but I liked the<br />
photo op. Fun fact: the popular belief that the pose of<br />
the horse indicates how its rider died is, in fact, <a href="http://www.snopes.com/military/statue.asp" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: #cc0000;">false</span></b></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYoSjj30ZqCH1dLbj_6p25IGNFhnS9PCJUQDm5AQbFtDI9KSjTzzZyIin9Bw-lCei10UxzmgufHwKAXTCNVSbm8QeNq0KJXkDvySkLp61ont6_dH64th26sygCDnQ3ffQ-Ok6PEpGK8DpP/s1600/DSC_3482.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYoSjj30ZqCH1dLbj_6p25IGNFhnS9PCJUQDm5AQbFtDI9KSjTzzZyIin9Bw-lCei10UxzmgufHwKAXTCNVSbm8QeNq0KJXkDvySkLp61ont6_dH64th26sygCDnQ3ffQ-Ok6PEpGK8DpP/s1600/DSC_3482.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another appealing café in the<br />
neighborhood, readying itself for<br />
evening business</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9HoSpZ0p7mLVGhE0TLZEJUGbM3xejqMfT3y1Ara47dEcHyKoujG7uWoIs5iMuevBDVrsg7lX2vrYFzx0luLtWGoZ_GYdlMRgPS1QXTf3Nol1jNYG3uBtouoPWYfHEf_UPwyIxfcRk4XAy/s1600/DSC_3728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9HoSpZ0p7mLVGhE0TLZEJUGbM3xejqMfT3y1Ara47dEcHyKoujG7uWoIs5iMuevBDVrsg7lX2vrYFzx0luLtWGoZ_GYdlMRgPS1QXTf3Nol1jNYG3uBtouoPWYfHEf_UPwyIxfcRk4XAy/s1600/DSC_3728.jpg" height="191" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The attractive Port Vell (which means "Old Harbor"), little more than<br />
a derelict railroad warehouse area before an urban renewal program<br />
in the run-up to the 1992 Olympics gave it new life</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC5R1ZUyyCgNX2RhodZKt8emsgi794kA1yGjfFDG2DOb4ctzf-KWR77gfm7XGglv5JHVj8Mh6e-1d67TafHl0z1coZ7mfG-GNHjSbiUbxbGJrGfQcWURdJOL8rShoEjaXmBlxu5jdJA1Ho/s1600/DSC_3733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC5R1ZUyyCgNX2RhodZKt8emsgi794kA1yGjfFDG2DOb4ctzf-KWR77gfm7XGglv5JHVj8Mh6e-1d67TafHl0z1coZ7mfG-GNHjSbiUbxbGJrGfQcWURdJOL8rShoEjaXmBlxu5jdJA1Ho/s1600/DSC_3733.jpg" height="234" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A stand-up paddle boarder (yes, it's a thing)<br />
meanders by on the blue waters of the Med</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rFqlSKCohBnOIq5pKlroNfTblth_we0Nq17RPr1nZWI1y_eF1QTb7hxapL_6Zt49om5_26kmgX3rvEP3NicCH3BPAyT2goD1NyZS0cCH9oW3cX_h3brIyRmsm9Yu_so3Lxu9sRzrwi_Y/s1600/DSC_3738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rFqlSKCohBnOIq5pKlroNfTblth_we0Nq17RPr1nZWI1y_eF1QTb7hxapL_6Zt49om5_26kmgX3rvEP3NicCH3BPAyT2goD1NyZS0cCH9oW3cX_h3brIyRmsm9Yu_so3Lxu9sRzrwi_Y/s1600/DSC_3738.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Artistic clouds lace the sky over<br />
the boardwalk by the sea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8uFEiEx4sXD9f65O-CGtwq7Y6AtHJ45Ou5Sd7DVegM7TDFqFC-9mGyXJt2y7pWVBeHciqqhyphenhyphenD2Lgv8bWUbxxn5pKfecKNdswP5f8Mp_dfPMXzubOmrAeKYx9pzMpaXqL4q8VOQyAiS8g/s1600/DSC_3740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8uFEiEx4sXD9f65O-CGtwq7Y6AtHJ45Ou5Sd7DVegM7TDFqFC-9mGyXJt2y7pWVBeHciqqhyphenhyphenD2Lgv8bWUbxxn5pKfecKNdswP5f8Mp_dfPMXzubOmrAeKYx9pzMpaXqL4q8VOQyAiS8g/s1600/DSC_3740.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A funky blend of luxury, heritage, design, and color at Port Vell</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB1L3TNcRjLIibn8mBgn_53wlC0L2_7IGHmLNALmavCK-pY0nKRjRiFuar461je95m3A4KARdFePnBMWDbGDSLYR6sRPYAfe-6Gh76O_B8scPz6-LL_gmllEFMscwvMORX_uWbXsg4RUP6/s1600/jm-52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB1L3TNcRjLIibn8mBgn_53wlC0L2_7IGHmLNALmavCK-pY0nKRjRiFuar461je95m3A4KARdFePnBMWDbGDSLYR6sRPYAfe-6Gh76O_B8scPz6-LL_gmllEFMscwvMORX_uWbXsg4RUP6/s1600/jm-52.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Hola!</i> The incomparable <i>jamón Ibérico</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Which brings us, naturally, to the culinary portion of the entry! Much like Paris, a highlight of any trip to Barcelona is the incredible food, highlighted by one of the world's true delicacies and quite possibly among the greatest foods in the world, <i>jamón Ibérico de bellota</i>, considered the pride of Spain. If everything else about Barcelona was merely average, this stupendous ham alone would salvage the trip and make it worthwhile. Happily, Barcelona pleases on nearly every level, so the exquisite <i>jamón Ibérico de bellota</i> was just the crowning indulgence. This particular ham is special for a number of reasons. First, the breed of pig, the noble black <i>Ibérico </i>pig, is stringently specified and regulated, as distinct from the more common white pig used for the massively popular <i>Serrano </i>ham of Spain, certainly no slouch itself.<br />
<br />
Second, the animal is allowed to spend the last few months of its life grazing on an open plain punctuated by oak trees, a field called the <i>dehesa</i>. The <i>Ibérico </i>pig loves acorns and can eat some 20 pounds a day running around and foraging in the <i>dehesa</i>, so in just three to four months before being slaughtered, the pig can double its weight, adding some two pounds of fat per day. The acorn-rich diet of the pig's last few months is second only in importance to the specific breed of the pig for the resultant magic of the finished product.<br />
<br />
Third, there is an exceptionally long curing process in which the fatty legs are packed in a volume of sea salt determined by the leg's weight, allowed to rest in the salt for a few weeks, then hung to dry in the cool mountain air, typically for two to four <i>years</i>. During the long curing period, the legs lose about half their weight as the fat slowly drips away. Because of the salt and the antioxidant quality of the pig's diet of acorns (the acorn is the <i>bellota </i>referenced in the name of the final product), bacteria cannot attack and spoil the ham. The fats break down and recombine several times over, the ham dries ever so slowly, and a symphony of uniquely complex flavors develops.<br />
<br />
Once the process is finally complete, the result is a deep red ham with wonderful marbling that literally melts in your mouth. In fact, because of the extraordinarily high content of fat marbling in the ham (surprisingly, most of which is monounsaturated), it will melt a bit at any temperature above about 75-78°F, so the fat melts away as the thin slices of ham rest on your tongue and the exquisite flavor of the cured meat develops, mingling with the rich flavor of the fat. For porcine aficionados, there is nothing like it, and as you might expect, <i>Ibérico de bellota </i>doesn't come cheap. Ham from those acorn-fed pigs is usually at least twice as expensive as a normal <i>Ibérico </i>ham, and exceptional strains which have been aged longer, classed as "reserva" or "gran reserva" (much like Spanish Rioja wine), can cost even more (think $70-100 per pound if you're buying the whole leg, which is usually 12-15 pounds). But like the finest Kobe beef or Beluga caviar, this is a delicacy that, if afforded the opportunity, you should sample at least once – being well aware that even a few thin slices can set you back a handful of euros!<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNBHCYKuP59Ox2Z0gUN0HU1Ny19_mmB41Soq9RSCqhvO4c0gFE3s4F4YOtMeSwFcj95WYWn5gBuNVoxNWvl7u-Vy_lSmW2SkOG3H3dTTCneWIDSH5wOLId9jyrSqex1F9Qv3unKSfmEPM/s1600/DSC_3478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNBHCYKuP59Ox2Z0gUN0HU1Ny19_mmB41Soq9RSCqhvO4c0gFE3s4F4YOtMeSwFcj95WYWn5gBuNVoxNWvl7u-Vy_lSmW2SkOG3H3dTTCneWIDSH5wOLId9jyrSqex1F9Qv3unKSfmEPM/s1600/DSC_3478.jpg" height="275" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How much is that piggy in the window? Well, that depends on whether<br />
it's a white-pig <i>Serrano</i>, a black-pig <i>Ibérico </i>fed on corn, or a black-pig<br />
<i>Ibérico de bellota</i> fed on corn and acorns... get your wallet ready!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4O_hq4SHJAKpRa35baBsG520aV1Yl7QOKiYSKeBQpEm_Mfz8Pj2PtHlyJ4Q0COR7wqe66LM43Afss34wYVyKJqxj4BSBQDefFm7guV3molA6EdI4x35RfHpTB5X1gONJh9t33arF2dXnj/s1600/DSC_3501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4O_hq4SHJAKpRa35baBsG520aV1Yl7QOKiYSKeBQpEm_Mfz8Pj2PtHlyJ4Q0COR7wqe66LM43Afss34wYVyKJqxj4BSBQDefFm7guV3molA6EdI4x35RfHpTB5X1gONJh9t33arF2dXnj/s1600/DSC_3501.jpg" height="320" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With apologies for the garish color of the<br />
display lights in the case, this is a fine<br />
way to sample Spanish hams</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
So when I wasn't eating <i>Serrano</i>, <i>Ibérico </i>or my other favorite, the smoky, spicy <i>chorizo</i> (which is altogether different than Mexican <i>chorizo</i>, by the way), I was wandering the streets of the Born District and neighboring Gothic District, never getting too far from the apartment, but in all honesty, never needing to. I have found that, at least for me, when traveling, it's preferable to explore one area with more depth and fullness than to see a lot of places, but truly experience none of them. Each philosophy has its own appeal and merits, but Barcelona needs to be embraced, not just skated over. I spent time in the outstanding 70-acre park next to the apartment (<i>Parc de la Ciutadella</i>), met plenty of people (locals and visitors alike), and despaired over my mediocre abilities in conversational Spanish going largely for naught, as everyone in Barcelona tends to speak Catalan. I had been looking forward to being able to decipher signs and such, but most of those are in Catalan, too.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYQ1Tra_z43tp8liSFZ9iyxVGyXCzWlbs2E3ZFcUXdbPd4xwYG2IFUUte2rt53sGHltmBS58HgASJM0GORCZmYsFlyy5eMO1jhm1KdNM_5Joxt5IwGdWwNVzs_fR5YOOUwlKrLGC_RUuTZ/s1600/IMG_20140203_133028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYQ1Tra_z43tp8liSFZ9iyxVGyXCzWlbs2E3ZFcUXdbPd4xwYG2IFUUte2rt53sGHltmBS58HgASJM0GORCZmYsFlyy5eMO1jhm1KdNM_5Joxt5IwGdWwNVzs_fR5YOOUwlKrLGC_RUuTZ/s1600/IMG_20140203_133028.jpg" height="320" width="249" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So basic, yet so awesome: a fresh baguette<br />
layered with slices of <i>Serrano </i>ham, drizzled<br />
with Spanish olive oil, and served with a<br />
generous glass of Spanish <i>tempranillo</i>...<br />
just €4 at Enrique Tomas café</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuJ3zkIEkKyQjUUuE-87RL0HLBkTn14YkG8RfZaavhHFcIsXdeJzIOpeHP9hSGBPKgf2WPrBus5t7B2vbMt5nMhwEC3_b4pNOduOvCH90Hrh6tpvY4skzco_76RKBMTKQ1LjoexD1L4-OD/s1600/DSC_3514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuJ3zkIEkKyQjUUuE-87RL0HLBkTn14YkG8RfZaavhHFcIsXdeJzIOpeHP9hSGBPKgf2WPrBus5t7B2vbMt5nMhwEC3_b4pNOduOvCH90Hrh6tpvY4skzco_76RKBMTKQ1LjoexD1L4-OD/s1600/DSC_3514.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A similar dish recreated at the<br />
apartment, yet looking very much<br />
like something at a café... except<br />
the entire bottle of wine was only<br />
half the cost of the meal in<br />
the previous photo!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6URMxOtu6DThhkyhWWGe7aC8ahQlsKI_QuwhBLQldlDq4U1FeGTsCiYiceXMrjUIR-YnDH7UyI4WBICeY0mfFcUhI8YfFvkvyPdS8b8IwoUi8e9psIrJLjY_LEdcELkPRzZ9IjAv2APNj/s1600/DSC_3483.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6URMxOtu6DThhkyhWWGe7aC8ahQlsKI_QuwhBLQldlDq4U1FeGTsCiYiceXMrjUIR-YnDH7UyI4WBICeY0mfFcUhI8YfFvkvyPdS8b8IwoUi8e9psIrJLjY_LEdcELkPRzZ9IjAv2APNj/s1600/DSC_3483.jpg" height="320" width="294" /></a>I stumbled onto La Boqueria the first time almost by accident. I made my way to La Rambla, and as it was the only rainy day on the trip, found myself briskly walking from store to store in an attempt to avail myself the brief use of their canopies and overhangs. It was a fine, misting sort of rain, and I had an umbrella with me, but apart from a few moments of actual light rain, the drizzle didn't really demand an umbrella. And suddenly, I looked up and, across the street, there it was, somewhat unassuming under a fairly unexceptional signed archway: <i>Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria</i>. I wandered in and was, in short order, in full sensory meltdown. There aren't sufficient words to really describe this market, so just look at the photos. It's an absolute orgy of flavors, smells, and colors... a veritable beehive of food-focused activity. I've been to some pretty amazing markets, but nothing like this. From fruit to meats to chocolates to nuts to marzipan to cheeses to vegetables, La Boqueria has more food that you can imagine. Fresh food, prepared food, baskets of food, artistically arranged piles of food... wines and beers, fresh juices, sparkling <i>cavas</i>, all complementing plates of Spanish olives, marinated mushrooms, <i>chorizo</i>, and <i>jamón</i>. I've never seen its equal. If you go to Barcelona, quite plainly, you will be genuinely missing out if you don't see (and experience) La Boqueria.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZV1Y3XkWnttofp6Fd49XkMBHGGkPFRCaymSRWjWWUkrM8hMA0us4-XvFkAzweW94fDGmaLEAp0V1jowU1bU3gmhuqDj4Qr1DDop7rxKZg7FV0UowtwuT8Kx_gl2jSF4q4Af-6J9jGnRKz/s1600/DSC_3487.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZV1Y3XkWnttofp6Fd49XkMBHGGkPFRCaymSRWjWWUkrM8hMA0us4-XvFkAzweW94fDGmaLEAp0V1jowU1bU3gmhuqDj4Qr1DDop7rxKZg7FV0UowtwuT8Kx_gl2jSF4q4Af-6J9jGnRKz/s1600/DSC_3487.jpg" height="311" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Biggest strawberries I've ever seen were at La Boqueria</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3hun-LSxT_AjVEsW392CPS31wPxKISPmyCxETk-ebM3jmc0ytC-mfAwJbvlW8gdQjKuSi8fcfSYMHhcxOZwOrysz5GwM5PH2DY1eIjIV7DRfL7jS_nWGwZg9rTyPSAk5towkgH5Q4zO3T/s1600/DSC_3491.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3hun-LSxT_AjVEsW392CPS31wPxKISPmyCxETk-ebM3jmc0ytC-mfAwJbvlW8gdQjKuSi8fcfSYMHhcxOZwOrysz5GwM5PH2DY1eIjIV7DRfL7jS_nWGwZg9rTyPSAk5towkgH5Q4zO3T/s1600/DSC_3491.jpg" height="320" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A blizzard of nuts... roasted, candied,<br />
salted, flavored, you name it</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5bIJCbYMoLyT9e9D80t91p6SICos8cdCVjGuYrLRTIRZ14T3DN9iPOhDYbq2y-83LjQiThYTj0DxO5pUdF23atAMD2l2Dess6MScYoPY5dcSidHQy7Z14aVAOp8YzvBxRDh9djSXuTfj2/s1600/DSC_3493.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5bIJCbYMoLyT9e9D80t91p6SICos8cdCVjGuYrLRTIRZ14T3DN9iPOhDYbq2y-83LjQiThYTj0DxO5pUdF23atAMD2l2Dess6MScYoPY5dcSidHQy7Z14aVAOp8YzvBxRDh9djSXuTfj2/s1600/DSC_3493.jpg" height="282" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What fun! Fresh food, including yummy <i>salchichón </i>(Spanish sausages),<br />
and plenty of beer and wine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYHH6DC5Xyy-6HXvtuLhqSyL9q645CCoTLAsBzcnB0PVq7CBrlZATQo5uML57YvFyF5mRmDdZmEzoBcHR_LVXzz4bcnHE3CBiv8AgNjGK9qex_luZh8-hYFXLI59W6EZhnbpTF0lODAIge/s1600/DSC_3486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYHH6DC5Xyy-6HXvtuLhqSyL9q645CCoTLAsBzcnB0PVq7CBrlZATQo5uML57YvFyF5mRmDdZmEzoBcHR_LVXzz4bcnHE3CBiv8AgNjGK9qex_luZh8-hYFXLI59W6EZhnbpTF0lODAIge/s1600/DSC_3486.jpg" height="273" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The vegan's nightmare continues</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX-1QkQG__dcy9yTJu-BoH1kw8-F6U22DYdNTJZA-NcJ9sfIZdxfOkmaZOrt-aUGuY0W9lQmsjaUGErv4uioTaW7LnF_XkUb3IbRFCdwFHgH2v3msF_Kp01Or5bJpK_VNAyIfKcteCNrda/s1600/DSC_3494.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX-1QkQG__dcy9yTJu-BoH1kw8-F6U22DYdNTJZA-NcJ9sfIZdxfOkmaZOrt-aUGuY0W9lQmsjaUGErv4uioTaW7LnF_XkUb3IbRFCdwFHgH2v3msF_Kp01Or5bJpK_VNAyIfKcteCNrda/s1600/DSC_3494.jpg" height="227" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colorful marzipan and choco-goodies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVjyYxU5m3OLKgpSe7Dt2tqI9MhSxSvyl9n583V-eQCFNCNtmuCm7GHE9sVSLcZhc2jeo90u5k7LxC8mERyJHORQaVNWHadrk6jBik59DCmRo9vo1929uFjHns0RmPAl7XVBLK8BB8OYfz/s1600/DSC_3495.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVjyYxU5m3OLKgpSe7Dt2tqI9MhSxSvyl9n583V-eQCFNCNtmuCm7GHE9sVSLcZhc2jeo90u5k7LxC8mERyJHORQaVNWHadrk6jBik59DCmRo9vo1929uFjHns0RmPAl7XVBLK8BB8OYfz/s1600/DSC_3495.jpg" height="400" width="278" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mustn't forget your veggies...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1269P6XF-IcwFxoArWK5uOvqOyLbqwoaaG9670XMxOQQN6SiPA2L_sujdn-JfW3tFWFRNYgQDk06LZdnhwIAPVP8jlUpTzyVPDlJub5wQbkgvZ8vaQaSaC-K4KMWpuY7oHX1H5kkQDeuQ/s1600/DSC_3497.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1269P6XF-IcwFxoArWK5uOvqOyLbqwoaaG9670XMxOQQN6SiPA2L_sujdn-JfW3tFWFRNYgQDk06LZdnhwIAPVP8jlUpTzyVPDlJub5wQbkgvZ8vaQaSaC-K4KMWpuY7oHX1H5kkQDeuQ/s1600/DSC_3497.jpg" height="186" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grab a cup of fruit for some power noshing while you shop!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_C8WNnRY8DcFLe3_sbfQUSsZaQx5YCQREynDqwCJSveT0rI3WhImnz1Il3EcoizdE1VUBiex-vAsb1pKWgjACa-bmXvY_4okKG-lsNSTcr7GsiFptUcgXGdCqX1jKPw5af5mDRRQ9g1WP/s1600/DSC_3498.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_C8WNnRY8DcFLe3_sbfQUSsZaQx5YCQREynDqwCJSveT0rI3WhImnz1Il3EcoizdE1VUBiex-vAsb1pKWgjACa-bmXvY_4okKG-lsNSTcr7GsiFptUcgXGdCqX1jKPw5af5mDRRQ9g1WP/s1600/DSC_3498.jpg" height="335" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Salchichón</i>, <i>chorizo</i>, <i>jamón Serrano</i>, <i>jamón Ibérico</i>... it's porkapalooza!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg75y1KiFPEZSKGkVBUP-KYPA8iZR2tKJfd09wOXOwfH-a-AtuGkBroRzE_QWX-8-6nn93tbP0WoqZwqtAOWcLgFnC2RT5iF_rPN9j-Irxyn-hVZHZm7lpLOtJP30CsgSpgNVA35k5uYe5L/s1600/DSC_3502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg75y1KiFPEZSKGkVBUP-KYPA8iZR2tKJfd09wOXOwfH-a-AtuGkBroRzE_QWX-8-6nn93tbP0WoqZwqtAOWcLgFnC2RT5iF_rPN9j-Irxyn-hVZHZm7lpLOtJP30CsgSpgNVA35k5uYe5L/s1600/DSC_3502.jpg" height="400" width="338" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another great way to sample a selection of Spanish meats</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz_752cGcMM1lJvUnv6AwWp2d3Z29f29_HwLK1LPBIlPx4mlh2REs6VbuL2pxNT6qTJju4NbMDg13dqTyy9GVbDNgjTc_ijiQgwwzusidhc97P8ereai06w3kyxH8PvMHFvuMDXyIx7UBC/s1600/DSC_3503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz_752cGcMM1lJvUnv6AwWp2d3Z29f29_HwLK1LPBIlPx4mlh2REs6VbuL2pxNT6qTJju4NbMDg13dqTyy9GVbDNgjTc_ijiQgwwzusidhc97P8ereai06w3kyxH8PvMHFvuMDXyIx7UBC/s1600/DSC_3503.jpg" height="400" width="292" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Do I really have to just settle for one??</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpGVF9n0FEC02fHPg9lvSu3Z5G7KLVIruPqUY6ZOlDuZIW3FdXgRLNQ0yELJHpfP_Ln9-l3L2JDE6b2eNzG872Y6VjX50EuCH1SB1J8JzueENBEnQHovJLoIwMC4Hvr0cKfUy-1rGX7Z_/s1600/DSC_3505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpGVF9n0FEC02fHPg9lvSu3Z5G7KLVIruPqUY6ZOlDuZIW3FdXgRLNQ0yELJHpfP_Ln9-l3L2JDE6b2eNzG872Y6VjX50EuCH1SB1J8JzueENBEnQHovJLoIwMC4Hvr0cKfUy-1rGX7Z_/s1600/DSC_3505.jpg" height="236" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A marvelous mélange of peppers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBggoGirPpn6J1uYIIJ7PVMn37VKZHH0Q3DcJtArg6ix-ZomazorLBYaHxV7IM9yuUIJ3KHAuYE-3edKJxEDwVd24B8pqSOQqc0cOJSEHAGKM6xxTTGpTtAFjhhG2fd7a8glTSBOMTuocm/s1600/DSC_3506.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBggoGirPpn6J1uYIIJ7PVMn37VKZHH0Q3DcJtArg6ix-ZomazorLBYaHxV7IM9yuUIJ3KHAuYE-3edKJxEDwVd24B8pqSOQqc0cOJSEHAGKM6xxTTGpTtAFjhhG2fd7a8glTSBOMTuocm/s1600/DSC_3506.jpg" height="400" width="371" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What the hell is all this? Who knows? Dried mushrooms, infused<br />
oils, what looks like <i>nonpareils</i>... just anything and everything</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaTJM5r-Ywid5QxeJjACUud6opdTyMWv-UgBugIRdpz-AibZ-Zh2C1QSYOywEGqVY0HcA0WjSfoBs8AWBIzDw0FIzszr2uCBquvV5pKug4CmZSMg7Rujw_Mvsrcu9JfkgWNxNygBIWz6_q/s1600/DSC_3507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaTJM5r-Ywid5QxeJjACUud6opdTyMWv-UgBugIRdpz-AibZ-Zh2C1QSYOywEGqVY0HcA0WjSfoBs8AWBIzDw0FIzszr2uCBquvV5pKug4CmZSMg7Rujw_Mvsrcu9JfkgWNxNygBIWz6_q/s1600/DSC_3507.jpg" height="400" width="275" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fruits, chilies, and spicy sauces, including the<br />
pride of Avery Island, Louisiana... Tabasco!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_NjO5aY1YVUC110_j6kU_vGVfMewK1rXF8o1RvjyA9TstRo-9aosT70ERsZsLr1kAPDBIgDUXF4IRidkA4GnknGkaOQu69ct5S_vvZ2RdtbFdj2tNTYDI2zocYNbDsHukLLS2LXpfI1-L/s1600/DSC_3509.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_NjO5aY1YVUC110_j6kU_vGVfMewK1rXF8o1RvjyA9TstRo-9aosT70ERsZsLr1kAPDBIgDUXF4IRidkA4GnknGkaOQu69ct5S_vvZ2RdtbFdj2tNTYDI2zocYNbDsHukLLS2LXpfI1-L/s1600/DSC_3509.jpg" height="230" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bring your own insulin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0md74KyAJVSlsbXJPdFmJvZ2TZmUc4M0G23ca702cYgEgWPgDETl5FWXzA8VGOPsoqUs3drSxeZmwX0JiNDsM_5YqRXfsYT_-OwYPfjM0x01Bbe8tAQpfrTYWB_Yld2IXbU-D8xaRn3hG/s1600/DSC_3512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0md74KyAJVSlsbXJPdFmJvZ2TZmUc4M0G23ca702cYgEgWPgDETl5FWXzA8VGOPsoqUs3drSxeZmwX0JiNDsM_5YqRXfsYT_-OwYPfjM0x01Bbe8tAQpfrTYWB_Yld2IXbU-D8xaRn3hG/s1600/DSC_3512.jpg" height="223" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Do I buy stuff here or just marvel at how beautifully it's all arranged!?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1XGg804o7CyUbaS3vBGQhhZPT6rWah5ampdRr-yHOCJ1erjoq_7_M_xNRrq1Ga3onSw6rCAv5pgqTVsXE8qUTu9tyuUTbW4XwEuka76R3PQC_YArlRpUB1jdQyT5A_I_2N9bASnduSAdv/s1600/DSC_3784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1XGg804o7CyUbaS3vBGQhhZPT6rWah5ampdRr-yHOCJ1erjoq_7_M_xNRrq1Ga3onSw6rCAv5pgqTVsXE8qUTu9tyuUTbW4XwEuka76R3PQC_YArlRpUB1jdQyT5A_I_2N9bASnduSAdv/s1600/DSC_3784.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great café. Note Ms. Pink Hair inside!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
My time in Barcelona flew by, a testament to how much I was enjoying the city. Near the end of my stay, on the first attempt of the tapas tour, only two of us showed up, diminishing the "fun" factor of a slightly larger group, so it was rescheduled for the following night. Nevertheless, the tour host took the two of us that night to a couple of small cafés and funky bars for cheap beer, distinctly local grub, and an amazing hamburger that still makes my mouth water at the mere memory. On top of all the drinking, eating, and general shenanigans of the evening, there was a little game called the Super Bowl about to be staged back home very, very late that night Barcelona time, and after bidding my erstwhile bar-hopping friends <i>adieu </i>around midnight, I considered popping into one of the neighborhood sports pubs to watch it. But with a big high-def flatscreen, satellite TV, and a supremely comfy couch at the apartment, I ultimately just headed back there and struggled to stay awake to watch the Super Bowl, which devolved rapidly into a crapfest that, as a Denver Broncos fan, I'd have been just as well-advised to sleep through entirely. What a nightmare. As it turns out, watching it in my bleary state of fatigued (and buzzed) semi-consciousness made the 43-8 blowout loss significantly less painful to endure. And to think, I had actually very seriously considered cutting short my time in Barcelona and flying over to Denver for a couple of days so I could watch the big game with friends and fellow fans, then flying from there back to Paris to catch my return flight to KL. It goes without saying that, had I done that – and shelled out the $800 or so necessary for the additional flights – just to bear witness to that diabolical embarrassment of a game, I'd <i>still </i>be cursing myself. Oftentimes in life, we look back and regret the things we didn't do. Indeed, this was not at all one of those times.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwj-Dfaf9GLUa-oHBJWIBh260zDd1jwvdfPGn-O0MsZN3tcb6xlBWkoAFisoWL37jjqQxMrNEg9wuHopTBHjgYA2ABniinGyROm1DSmOxYTxqY0EIJLBhBXkMmVkqhGvKsPkqewCPxMMzh/s1600/IMG_20140202_225054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwj-Dfaf9GLUa-oHBJWIBh260zDd1jwvdfPGn-O0MsZN3tcb6xlBWkoAFisoWL37jjqQxMrNEg9wuHopTBHjgYA2ABniinGyROm1DSmOxYTxqY0EIJLBhBXkMmVkqhGvKsPkqewCPxMMzh/s1600/IMG_20140202_225054.jpg" height="320" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ah, the sign of "there was still hope"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtLTAh_rcM-OHCPfcW3GBzxoWAXZfMqIpkgzcGzFKiciPOtrFP_33TjxhFrP1CdCYiQIh728XuTOFJSACcXhMVAirb2UDdt_GqPEMGKxT5_G778-QDyPaKdYAS3E4O0fmLus3BUikdWvVd/s1600/IMG_20140202_211010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtLTAh_rcM-OHCPfcW3GBzxoWAXZfMqIpkgzcGzFKiciPOtrFP_33TjxhFrP1CdCYiQIh728XuTOFJSACcXhMVAirb2UDdt_GqPEMGKxT5_G778-QDyPaKdYAS3E4O0fmLus3BUikdWvVd/s1600/IMG_20140202_211010.jpg" height="216" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A decidedly local grunge bar serving up<br />
cheap San Miguel beer and...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsAbzIgS01v8mdPu1Osmggczc8a2JXR_3bN-mYbFIugx2O0mmtZVKcySr5pmFpM88b1ZJt4HQZpRcAty_yDC-56_2T1yDSASQ_HL6n6_p-g2jdx800wQCYsUAonZd6-BPDCJORxhgjlUOV/s1600/IMG_20140202_212301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsAbzIgS01v8mdPu1Osmggczc8a2JXR_3bN-mYbFIugx2O0mmtZVKcySr5pmFpM88b1ZJt4HQZpRcAty_yDC-56_2T1yDSASQ_HL6n6_p-g2jdx800wQCYsUAonZd6-BPDCJORxhgjlUOV/s1600/IMG_20140202_212301.jpg" height="400" width="326" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A truly splendid burger whose true glory isn't at all<br />
well-captured in this hasty camera-phone snap</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The next night, we gave the tapas tour another go and this time, a fair few of us showed up, including people from Australia, the US (besides me), New Caledonia, Mexico, South Africa, and continental Europe. It was great. We bounced from tapas bar to tapas bar, sampling a myriad of dishes, drinking wines and beers, and sharing stories and getting acquainted. One particular place saw our guide instructing us in the use of the <i>porró</i>, a glass wine pitcher in Spain, though we had one – or maybe two – filled with beer, too, accompanying the two holding wine. The <i>porró </i>looks like a glass watering can with a very narrow spout, tapering to almost nothing. The idea is that you can fill the pitcher with a wine (a full bottle), then pass it around in a group, as you can drink from the thing without the spout coming in direct contact with your mouth. We all tried it, with varying degrees of success and errant dribbles here and there, and by the time we got to our fifth venue and started swimming around in their large and excellent <i>mojitos</i>, we were all well and truly feeling no pain. It was a fun night, and for me, the only downside was that it was indeed my last night in Barcelona, so I had to get back to the apartment and pack everything up for an early departure the next morning, so I didn't get to close down the bars with the rest of the gang, but did manage to hang around until nearly midnight.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikmdkIny2o4Dag4S0xfTLiHCmuoeIMXhagXbjuFx5JhUYH5gD3zP4A98n1M0_5YePf5M8Hr0zdKwy02Hxz_WrbimdwfO0Ws4x5CJwbtRoAmVeGQw40hCeTIIhsHWio-dOaSj3m8NoZ_KzP/s1600/DSC_3745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikmdkIny2o4Dag4S0xfTLiHCmuoeIMXhagXbjuFx5JhUYH5gD3zP4A98n1M0_5YePf5M8Hr0zdKwy02Hxz_WrbimdwfO0Ws4x5CJwbtRoAmVeGQw40hCeTIIhsHWio-dOaSj3m8NoZ_KzP/s1600/DSC_3745.jpg" height="152" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tapas tour begins!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzazhLuFx39XLlxFQV_9MC5JT2Ucga5DAq5587WSGRczO5qJgqah0lRWHSBRV952FHk-9fpfAzNW6fTRaf8AqpMwtYjjBwjTxzHrEGBmHrRBOShfxnRTgTAjrgatA8bPcBapndOQcxpPH2/s1600/DSC_3747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzazhLuFx39XLlxFQV_9MC5JT2Ucga5DAq5587WSGRczO5qJgqah0lRWHSBRV952FHk-9fpfAzNW6fTRaf8AqpMwtYjjBwjTxzHrEGBmHrRBOShfxnRTgTAjrgatA8bPcBapndOQcxpPH2/s1600/DSC_3747.jpg" height="232" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crazy eights! Sober and reserved at tapas bar #1... but it was a rather<br />
different tale a few hours later!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIWzQmxs9pjg1ZuZasgSyVdnbb1OC9-HHCCJw58bCuhfuxJzu8zn7ramGeKtzIl4FUNPR1S0uBU11g6qrcjn7mNNOSYx1XtJHhKoDg328xA7_nRioAWmGPXburVIvwaKSuEbCPRqCJ3ZER/s1600/DSC_3746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIWzQmxs9pjg1ZuZasgSyVdnbb1OC9-HHCCJw58bCuhfuxJzu8zn7ramGeKtzIl4FUNPR1S0uBU11g6qrcjn7mNNOSYx1XtJHhKoDg328xA7_nRioAWmGPXburVIvwaKSuEbCPRqCJ3ZER/s1600/DSC_3746.jpg" height="196" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brave potatoes! The ubiquitous <i>patatas bravas</i>, perhaps<br />
the quintessential Spanish tapa. And no, it doesn't really<br />
mean "brave potatoes"!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZwAkoFaATNA7YZVu-BYbthEMB5G4qWkSpzUyrmXy3UwDTBS3_FNZMMmo50Uujc_EFX1R_kyo60egH4MdXZBvrAwIJKPWGSTj9r_kXuuAO9BwwZJ__r2sPlOdEYQm2ZgYFIhXN-mJF_hB/s1600/DSC_3763.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZwAkoFaATNA7YZVu-BYbthEMB5G4qWkSpzUyrmXy3UwDTBS3_FNZMMmo50Uujc_EFX1R_kyo60egH4MdXZBvrAwIJKPWGSTj9r_kXuuAO9BwwZJ__r2sPlOdEYQm2ZgYFIhXN-mJF_hB/s1600/DSC_3763.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think this was venue #3, and with three or four full <i>porrós </i>of wines<br />
and beers to share, the fun really began in earnest here</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCOEGXT94kT8q5eckh4XojhHMWASH_iVCoDkTVqK0TMMC1FSVmNsFvxk8g-SRO7g-2r7YF_qYwAebzMB4XTIq81E4f5ytilyVy5ZC0sMj9oRcsbn324haEnBpngEv3bJUmf_L1R3_ou9H4/s1600/DSC_3755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCOEGXT94kT8q5eckh4XojhHMWASH_iVCoDkTVqK0TMMC1FSVmNsFvxk8g-SRO7g-2r7YF_qYwAebzMB4XTIq81E4f5ytilyVy5ZC0sMj9oRcsbn324haEnBpngEv3bJUmf_L1R3_ou9H4/s1600/DSC_3755.jpg" height="320" width="233" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our fearless off-duty Catalan guide seizes a<br />
<i>porró </i>and shows us how it's done</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjybvZpXIY1MsXK8imcREpTvyqkNRCDIysq7AwyLGD2P_EmX6MIx881ersJwGprYKNKF3AKxpqmU-lKAlRYy59pHMs2W-zCHLMsiACUSeCbLZh-G60a7PmMudhTw0fjgXyLJE68b78vBUsh/s1600/DSC_3772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjybvZpXIY1MsXK8imcREpTvyqkNRCDIysq7AwyLGD2P_EmX6MIx881ersJwGprYKNKF3AKxpqmU-lKAlRYy59pHMs2W-zCHLMsiACUSeCbLZh-G60a7PmMudhTw0fjgXyLJE68b78vBUsh/s1600/DSC_3772.jpg" height="272" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nine people collectively representing five continents; by midway<br />
through the evening, we had all gotten plenty chummy!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I woke up early the next morning, showered, had a small "eat on the go" brekkie, and put the finishing touches on my packing. I made my way to the nearby Metro station, bags in tow, and took the train to Barcelona-Sants to kick off the first leg of the trip back to KL. In actual fact, the journey back was really a great part of the overall vacation. Again, I took the high-speed train, this time in the first-class car back to Paris (not as impressive as it sounds; it was only like €10 more than the regular car), and the weather was excellent, so I enjoyed great views of the Pyrenees mountain range and the picturesque towns and farms of Spain and France along the way. Of course, I grabbed a fresh baguette, a bottle of cheap Catalonian wine, and some delicious <i>Serrano </i>ham before leaving Barcelona and once again had a very nice meal on board the speedy train as the scenery whizzed by. I don't know what most of the towns and buildings are in the photos I snapped, so just enjoy the relatively information-free scenics!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx-BMjU3ie6IZnZX0Iod-DYV-kvYCONo0-hhHs44Ibuj77BMIV7DlhmLjuWnJ_ANRpU4SDlbJq_efA6krzfrb3axTFqL2KSAw_rEl_pupzy3imbtbtGvoo_E_h3lp0dwMH88OeafjPm4Zx/s1600/IMG_20140203_174236.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx-BMjU3ie6IZnZX0Iod-DYV-kvYCONo0-hhHs44Ibuj77BMIV7DlhmLjuWnJ_ANRpU4SDlbJq_efA6krzfrb3axTFqL2KSAw_rEl_pupzy3imbtbtGvoo_E_h3lp0dwMH88OeafjPm4Zx/s1600/IMG_20140203_174236.jpg" height="320" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Various meats and cheeses... the entire<br />
contents of that pack of <i>Serrano </i>ham ended<br />
up in the middle of the baguette :)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgLcphU9iZzwWAeHGfqjX7HrZYau9OoI7jm4Wy5TxZ411uNlhX3RX8ol20upyu3oeNDhDVMB9mUOgO52-TuF4g5f0610aC7mPWcZPDsCCYE9E-yqIYQhrOWq2h-CUklonshpNH_Ji9BkZU/s1600/DSC_3790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgLcphU9iZzwWAeHGfqjX7HrZYau9OoI7jm4Wy5TxZ411uNlhX3RX8ol20upyu3oeNDhDVMB9mUOgO52-TuF4g5f0610aC7mPWcZPDsCCYE9E-yqIYQhrOWq2h-CUklonshpNH_Ji9BkZU/s1600/DSC_3790.jpg" height="199" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuffed to the gills! There may or may not have been<br />
a half dozen bottles of various French and<br />
Spanish wines ensconced in my bag</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipudhSEXQmDdShMEw_rrPl9KKXMlDbbeT4aoNfRiiSDGoLv7FinBAx6hkxiv5AAmF3BBQw1hKqlb3ziylznT2b5UxEVouVE8sZ0figyP7LlecodwkN1nFtfjUwst7yxvbu52Pb3oEel6mP/s1600/DSC_3791.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipudhSEXQmDdShMEw_rrPl9KKXMlDbbeT4aoNfRiiSDGoLv7FinBAx6hkxiv5AAmF3BBQw1hKqlb3ziylznT2b5UxEVouVE8sZ0figyP7LlecodwkN1nFtfjUwst7yxvbu52Pb3oEel6mP/s1600/DSC_3791.jpg" height="320" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The upper deck of the first-class car on the TGV</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLZFZ14_3M1V8t2hKJ0l6q7KU5fldKQAK5jQwZM_B81FHzOeM618CihM7nPlvZetnxGESOzR5v0PKNr4GeeaHahlzCMUfTEO1oWgLOJvThDyS_RsWq4uYmCLvwrMh22opqWatM3URVaLN/s1600/DSC_3818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLZFZ14_3M1V8t2hKJ0l6q7KU5fldKQAK5jQwZM_B81FHzOeM618CihM7nPlvZetnxGESOzR5v0PKNr4GeeaHahlzCMUfTEO1oWgLOJvThDyS_RsWq4uYmCLvwrMh22opqWatM3URVaLN/s1600/DSC_3818.jpg" height="320" width="269" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Pyrenees Range in northeastern Spain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSL7GntvL9TrvhQLA_KPOz7SrVsURIfljzmJMduq0I54jd1NpVGCa5Dhq3SGuNXgtDDE6sSK1k2bWYiJ4OncFtNZGTkT8Lf7_C5x3cZNAbU03jk1YxMsEd7HUajjuFASKC0i7gggAlg0k/s1600/DSC_3813.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSL7GntvL9TrvhQLA_KPOz7SrVsURIfljzmJMduq0I54jd1NpVGCa5Dhq3SGuNXgtDDE6sSK1k2bWYiJ4OncFtNZGTkT8Lf7_C5x3cZNAbU03jk1YxMsEd7HUajjuFASKC0i7gggAlg0k/s1600/DSC_3813.jpg" height="175" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Farmland in the valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTol4qpYVIjDPsj4_W6Chub6n42FLcLa58TJ5T7E_VGIm9Qo_9SVvVWoWb0nPRDyppoRbCp8PXIKwfSsYWsmvr_FxEYmpIXU2bGXqGuueldN_N3mSLvkVh26ivfoeSAuCOAWxsLa7Z6krT/s1600/DSC_3819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTol4qpYVIjDPsj4_W6Chub6n42FLcLa58TJ5T7E_VGIm9Qo_9SVvVWoWb0nPRDyppoRbCp8PXIKwfSsYWsmvr_FxEYmpIXU2bGXqGuueldN_N3mSLvkVh26ivfoeSAuCOAWxsLa7Z6krT/s1600/DSC_3819.jpg" height="320" width="272" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Spanish town near the French border</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiagqIEdTPv9mbAcc0abqdk6wihf9vEQO4BunlKho42EHS2DNlh2it8Td_2s_jeZv0OgIdNhv4yofQ9xiaweaB1Aq9Q5OBvrr0E3wPbA8hzDNINbNVX8YpFGBw3cXtroPvAojgWYGZU5gVI/s1600/DSC_3828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiagqIEdTPv9mbAcc0abqdk6wihf9vEQO4BunlKho42EHS2DNlh2it8Td_2s_jeZv0OgIdNhv4yofQ9xiaweaB1Aq9Q5OBvrr0E3wPbA8hzDNINbNVX8YpFGBw3cXtroPvAojgWYGZU5gVI/s1600/DSC_3828.jpg" height="147" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking vaguely Pikes Peak-ish, Mt. Canigou forms an impressive backdrop</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9e9xJgxXzO_aC4OWivE_wKOSm55bjjEC3ZnvzZOks2IspisyG-FZ5ELKpr1SqgJr4xPHH_ZDzj05g_BgU4spnDC2OAg8Xwz_Rx7HWufqq4Msx7gf0HFkbvBWurMbSmGPm5slZTHdibcku/s1600/DSC_3823.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9e9xJgxXzO_aC4OWivE_wKOSm55bjjEC3ZnvzZOks2IspisyG-FZ5ELKpr1SqgJr4xPHH_ZDzj05g_BgU4spnDC2OAg8Xwz_Rx7HWufqq4Msx7gf0HFkbvBWurMbSmGPm5slZTHdibcku/s1600/DSC_3823.jpg" height="222" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mt. Canigou, 2,784 m/9,134 ft.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYC3FkoVyc0Wf3sMxx-lzpAr_fHCzkASwc5zO4CkDnKTzzsv8LE0rSHpVcNshEQRVZ0JJ685fO-0QPD_m1fpKnN-OoIjydH7bFP-qUIACjEzH9L5GNdbvuEoLdN76jh3l8Jj5KjG3vimn7/s1600/DSC_3835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYC3FkoVyc0Wf3sMxx-lzpAr_fHCzkASwc5zO4CkDnKTzzsv8LE0rSHpVcNshEQRVZ0JJ685fO-0QPD_m1fpKnN-OoIjydH7bFP-qUIACjEzH9L5GNdbvuEoLdN76jh3l8Jj5KjG3vimn7/s1600/DSC_3835.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And this is where that <i>Serrano </i>ham<br />
found a home... so yummy!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaUFZClP4XzBmtX-yzpnPB9uVImZAYJT-vqZ6-J6iAgUJfh4MMyPg1orpeiJZjCtOSQbHz6LR-_YNutfIVMg54aGt0-04sau1eXKeAtyHqhgDq6vU2Fn03sXG_TUwXjHHsDqZJlXsUeUDr/s1600/DSC_3827.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaUFZClP4XzBmtX-yzpnPB9uVImZAYJT-vqZ6-J6iAgUJfh4MMyPg1orpeiJZjCtOSQbHz6LR-_YNutfIVMg54aGt0-04sau1eXKeAtyHqhgDq6vU2Fn03sXG_TUwXjHHsDqZJlXsUeUDr/s1600/DSC_3827.jpg" height="172" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a pretty picturesque town, right? Not a bad place to hang your hat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXncWJiPFWqXy4WBqkS76c9PsI1CSBlwhll4KX7pWKJFCpGlTBRPyCti90fF-nhQB3SwNfs5V0NQh7MqAsYA_hx9GOEUB1G7wP5DauYFvjr33ljOmOAW8-YBnrlBvw3hAvYCg8lAXMLAj4/s1600/DSC_3843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXncWJiPFWqXy4WBqkS76c9PsI1CSBlwhll4KX7pWKJFCpGlTBRPyCti90fF-nhQB3SwNfs5V0NQh7MqAsYA_hx9GOEUB1G7wP5DauYFvjr33ljOmOAW8-YBnrlBvw3hAvYCg8lAXMLAj4/s1600/DSC_3843.jpg" height="148" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pastoral countryside in the south of France</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiooskFhyxywFNWF56PJzB9LUVptquaEgjoSiciZdx9bag0gZcJm-MA2PfK90UqNHv9D5dOP2S94tmNUIiJX45F6obP0CRogiYqKGHMGOV26k4P9vcQ7o7wcM0gOjoGP2YHMGRJINU1re6E/s1600/DSC_3836.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiooskFhyxywFNWF56PJzB9LUVptquaEgjoSiciZdx9bag0gZcJm-MA2PfK90UqNHv9D5dOP2S94tmNUIiJX45F6obP0CRogiYqKGHMGOV26k4P9vcQ7o7wcM0gOjoGP2YHMGRJINU1re6E/s1600/DSC_3836.jpg" height="400" width="325" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How I got a shot like this through a window while <br />
traveling at nearly 200 mph is a mystery to me</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVAhj8EIapK1Ndo1Yw15Vhn8PvqASU_mKuKtWwQcE39o-WRsT5VDliFQuAEPh2VmiXTCcq-EdC1GJ74s2PLvl7Bmlk9FDZuBk0BkxkmaZYeM6xAUphTRTa2_OxZ5LnMxXnwD6pKrbTIoBO/s1600/DSC_3858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVAhj8EIapK1Ndo1Yw15Vhn8PvqASU_mKuKtWwQcE39o-WRsT5VDliFQuAEPh2VmiXTCcq-EdC1GJ74s2PLvl7Bmlk9FDZuBk0BkxkmaZYeM6xAUphTRTa2_OxZ5LnMxXnwD6pKrbTIoBO/s1600/DSC_3858.jpg" height="226" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mountains give way to gently rolling pasture in France</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQI1-dh259GbP1MpeyBVfp1zDN4GFLyEkSSc9DCWo1oxQuv36CmSfaOMc3WT_3PWdjSJs90NY4CD8B6tJDagOwLOxbHn4CI9oC2izsT6Gcbf3t-bZKdOV58erptt3rlPKjy3FwtK0RXJaZ/s1600/DSC_3856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQI1-dh259GbP1MpeyBVfp1zDN4GFLyEkSSc9DCWo1oxQuv36CmSfaOMc3WT_3PWdjSJs90NY4CD8B6tJDagOwLOxbHn4CI9oC2izsT6Gcbf3t-bZKdOV58erptt3rlPKjy3FwtK0RXJaZ/s1600/DSC_3856.jpg" height="130" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And one of my favorites, a patchwork of deciduous and evergreen<br />
forests, intermixed with different shades of green fields</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5dNScxCtfVSO-vouSN4G6NuAjUi2-vFkZVvkc_U27rSSdZhPYRiThQR42oLKgfe2-bNOP3DafZcpIrpZJHSvBhWriIXf-YTGBDO_dVXNsk4WqPGR5xg97i61BoRvqgBAMLkXSGpHMq1m/s1600/IMG_20140204_171034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5dNScxCtfVSO-vouSN4G6NuAjUi2-vFkZVvkc_U27rSSdZhPYRiThQR42oLKgfe2-bNOP3DafZcpIrpZJHSvBhWriIXf-YTGBDO_dVXNsk4WqPGR5xg97i61BoRvqgBAMLkXSGpHMq1m/s1600/IMG_20140204_171034.jpg" height="320" width="223" /></a></div>
Once I arrived in Paris, I made my way from the city out to the airport and checked in for my flight back to KL. I was very fortunate to be flying business class on Etihad Airways, so this promised to be a most enjoyable way to conclude the vacation! And indeed it was so. They're amazing... once I had settled into my comfy seat for the Paris-Abu Dhabi leg of the trip, I was marveling at the caliber of wines they had on their wine list, so the flight attendant offered to do a little tasting for me once we got up to cruise altitude, bringing me a lovely cheese platter and a procession of the wines. Truly incredible service, and the food throughout the flight was terrific (save for a challenging risotto dish that was perhaps a bit too ambitious for an in-flight meal, yet still quite tasty), and also served to order... just whenever I felt hungry, rather than at pre-set serving times. The flight from Abu Dhabi to KL was on a different aircraft and that one was even better, owing to the way the seats were arranged in a sort of herringbone pattern, plus the fact they were fully 180° lie-flat seats. I've been lucky enough to experience business or first class on a number of airlines (usually the result of a complimentary upgrade), and this was quite possibly at the top of the heap on account of the excellent product and superb in-flight service.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVAYuI65CM__Rr0_zP72c08-t5LoS5vW5c6Q3OOTavmblVWv7CvY52L-D1LuNNmX7R0C6rgytJg3pXcmwJyThuX85YIC-wpRHPZxJHjBj8Y1iDMLvZbq3T_awFXNir_KDaf9papYd9HoRo/s1600/DSC_3873.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVAYuI65CM__Rr0_zP72c08-t5LoS5vW5c6Q3OOTavmblVWv7CvY52L-D1LuNNmX7R0C6rgytJg3pXcmwJyThuX85YIC-wpRHPZxJHjBj8Y1iDMLvZbq3T_awFXNir_KDaf9papYd9HoRo/s1600/DSC_3873.jpg" height="257" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first glass in my personal airborne wine tasting!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd48aWg9-XoRZd6i7hvtghm4X_XDOLI5sG07V4UM0waP8I1WOND_PTyYfZLhQ5mhGrPEoG1hJVXmSXv6Iy048kJvfi7QXUM2mZTixM-YjBqDuTNMEEYbg6FwzZXLiABu6IIL7oPCgdleTm/s1600/DSC_3877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd48aWg9-XoRZd6i7hvtghm4X_XDOLI5sG07V4UM0waP8I1WOND_PTyYfZLhQ5mhGrPEoG1hJVXmSXv6Iy048kJvfi7QXUM2mZTixM-YjBqDuTNMEEYbg6FwzZXLiABu6IIL7oPCgdleTm/s1600/DSC_3877.jpg" height="271" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A decent effort at a mushroom and wilted spinach risotto, served<br />
with a splendid glass of <i>premier cru</i> Chablis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRIbxig5G1QeQnOf6u19fFqe0GYBW0dta4eZW5vYgNkHKBq4sMKfhLhNl9EqdpziOvm_imiyZRvVOhzb2nPi6zyAfaMFD35JgjQ9-Frz-kjWlJh5hwyHjt2kh5B2vFmZUTBWu8coYzyf5k/s1600/IMG_20140205_100722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRIbxig5G1QeQnOf6u19fFqe0GYBW0dta4eZW5vYgNkHKBq4sMKfhLhNl9EqdpziOvm_imiyZRvVOhzb2nPi6zyAfaMFD35JgjQ9-Frz-kjWlJh5hwyHjt2kh5B2vFmZUTBWu8coYzyf5k/s1600/IMG_20140205_100722.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The battery on my Nikon actually died after<br />
the risotto shot, so I was relegated to using<br />
my phone to snap this shot of the<br />
herringbone seat layout of<br />
Etihad's Abu Dhabi–KL flight</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0DnThCAG_sSJxcmgMPnJYx1hPSe0ZyakfKAnXlckc2Xfp2QV_HyfvRol1SElGwvKHsL3MZ8nvPbgpPjbEq01ciNw7gBxUXvx4g2VJUuj-hOl_sWwfYQmvvKve3QUujE06PomAXKr2aIyL/s1600/IMG_20140205_111311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0DnThCAG_sSJxcmgMPnJYx1hPSe0ZyakfKAnXlckc2Xfp2QV_HyfvRol1SElGwvKHsL3MZ8nvPbgpPjbEq01ciNw7gBxUXvx4g2VJUuj-hOl_sWwfYQmvvKve3QUujE06PomAXKr2aIyL/s1600/IMG_20140205_111311.jpg" height="320" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On departure from Abu Dhabi, it's hard not<br />
to notice the enormous Ferrari World<br />
theme park, all under a vast 2.1 million sq ft roof</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgfoFTjWPcEJtEHq3Twe35z8zsngcJJhPICKR3NfsDDCdEMFfD7ha8vax2rqWur_-YCUKAdqNUrBYZWF8RCEKHaOA2n3JPOsqoXqBCPfv2BD-jP_HqIQKgA8iTHTxk41ASs_FiRwdQ3Mvo/s1600/IMG_20140205_120143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgfoFTjWPcEJtEHq3Twe35z8zsngcJJhPICKR3NfsDDCdEMFfD7ha8vax2rqWur_-YCUKAdqNUrBYZWF8RCEKHaOA2n3JPOsqoXqBCPfv2BD-jP_HqIQKgA8iTHTxk41ASs_FiRwdQ3Mvo/s1600/IMG_20140205_120143.jpg" height="227" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoked duck breast? For me? How kind!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
So that concluded my somewhat whirlwind nine-day vacation to Paris and Barcelona. I assumed this would wrap up my long-haul travel adventures for at least a little while, but I was wrong. Shortly after getting back to work in early February, I was offered the work-related chance to visit New Zealand in April... and who could pass up a great opportunity like that? Not me, that's for sure. Stay tuned... that's the next entry!<br />
<div>
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<br />
<br />Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-52608106204844387832014-03-11T09:54:00.002-06:002014-03-11T09:57:17.307-06:00At long last! My first visit to Paris<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcsgB1zMIsnAoVo3CZU_4uRZYwV74U4keTS7cH5cqgoEn2kzbcy9RS6P4rcwZwj8gE9W5DBe9PnQDg_81W3oVVffIRZZs598iLUahhtwtfCuJ6fQtro6NaxyTIxWqay-U5-_3PylauaKAf/s1600/aDSC_3254.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcsgB1zMIsnAoVo3CZU_4uRZYwV74U4keTS7cH5cqgoEn2kzbcy9RS6P4rcwZwj8gE9W5DBe9PnQDg_81W3oVVffIRZZs598iLUahhtwtfCuJ6fQtro6NaxyTIxWqay-U5-_3PylauaKAf/s1600/aDSC_3254.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The icon of Paris, early evening</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Somehow... <i>somehow</i>... despite my love of fine food and good wine, despite my appreciation for classic architecture and design, and despite my great affection for traveling, I had never been to the world's most-visited city until 2014. I'm not quite sure how that all happened, but I'm awfully glad to have rectified it. Paris, even in the dead of winter, was a delight. And I learned a few things I didn't know about, either.<br />
<br />
Indeed, strolling along the Seine, and taking in the wide boulevards, tree-lined parks, neighborhood cafés, and fashionable streets bounded on either side by buildings of similar style, structure, and height, it may seem as though this archetypal Parisian scene has long been enshrined in the city’s historical legacy. In actual fact, however, the Paris of today is relatively new when viewed in context with the French capital’s lengthy history, something of which I wasn't even remotely aware until this visit (and an especially enlightening walking tour I took one fine day). Prior to the middle of the 19th century, Paris was indeed not a particularly pleasant place to live or visit, a medieval city of confusingly interweaving streets and alleyways, cramped buildings, and desperately poor sanitation and hygiene standards.<br />
<br />
All that changed dramatically under the reign of Napoleon III, who in 1853 launched a massive public works undertaking on a scale that even today defies belief. Together with his appointed prefect of the Seine, Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann, Napoleon III effectively tore down and rebuilt Paris, increasing the size of the city in the process via annexation. It was a colossal citywide renovation program that brought clean water, sanitation, improved passageways, and a large number of open spaces to a city that had, in the five decades prior, become increasingly important on the global stage, cementing itself as not only the center of power, finance, and culture in post-Revolution France, but as a leading city of the Enlightenment that swept across Western Europe – hence Paris being known even still today as the "City of Light." (Nope, doesn't have anything to do with lamps. Ha ha.)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhngDtTMG4DU0wn_HGsI9eOJwX0kVMVoWNvu99oN_DAVbn9OXkpAcDmMccnPaYA_eznsAZ4YRnv1K_tIdKWezKjiKkG4Wub9y_f05LyojnlyYnfKSYZx1NNP_7JgSm7TYjsTVtirh6CFJ9L/s1600/DSC_3310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhngDtTMG4DU0wn_HGsI9eOJwX0kVMVoWNvu99oN_DAVbn9OXkpAcDmMccnPaYA_eznsAZ4YRnv1K_tIdKWezKjiKkG4Wub9y_f05LyojnlyYnfKSYZx1NNP_7JgSm7TYjsTVtirh6CFJ9L/s1600/DSC_3310.jpg" height="276" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wrought-iron balconies, dormer windows, and garret rooms lend their<br />
forms to the quintessentially Parisian architectural landscape</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwd5duY3EcS1h9gvLKoV2Df3zPeOH_vuKFO5Fbb1alMcFFvaVavUBUnGxOElFxD4UEA5VZ9NYyWqMXCLoEh2aLhVOfoAXrMLQ3a8h7MqyfiSA3WGo7EsUAyosuvwVvq5pZoVOJbUW_Ae7g/s1600/DSC_3309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwd5duY3EcS1h9gvLKoV2Df3zPeOH_vuKFO5Fbb1alMcFFvaVavUBUnGxOElFxD4UEA5VZ9NYyWqMXCLoEh2aLhVOfoAXrMLQ3a8h7MqyfiSA3WGo7EsUAyosuvwVvq5pZoVOJbUW_Ae7g/s1600/DSC_3309.jpg" height="320" width="126" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uniformity of height<br />
and appearance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So in just 17 years’ time, the French emperor and his prefect utterly transformed the French capital into a stunning city of art and culture, very much laying the foundation for the Paris of today. Haussmann dictated strict codes and standards for the new Parisian buildings fronting the wide boulevards: they had to be the same height, follow the same basic design, and be faced in the same cream-colored stone. Standards also required owners to clean and refresh their building’s façade every 10 years. These building standards created in central Paris a distinctive unified urban landscape, an appearance it still maintains today. Lower floors had higher ceilings as those dwellings were occupied by the city's elite. With each successively higher group of floors, the ceiling height diminished, until the sixth or seventh floors – the height mandated under the new plan – was oftentimes little more than an attic space with garret rooms and dormer windows (perhaps for servants). Very little was left to chance, and the buildings became part of the street, forming a relatively uniform "wall" along each side, typifying what would become the defining "idea" of Paris. Well, that plus that big iron broadcast and observation tower that Parisians initially despised.<br />
<br />
Napoleon III also wanted the city to offer its residents plenty of green spaces for relaxation and recreation and ordered that large parks be placed at the four primary compass points in the city and where major boulevards intersected, with numerous smaller parks complementing them throughout the newly enlarged city, with the idea that no neighborhood should be more than a 10-minute walk from a park. The changes wrought by the vision of Haussmann and the French emperor have profoundly impacted the daily lives of Parisians and tourists to the city even to this day.<br />
<br />
So there's a very brief snippet of Paris's lengthy history, and this tiny parcel of knowledge made wandering around the city (well, mostly in the First and Seventh Arrondisements) all the more enjoyable as I was able to appreciate all that had been done under Haussmann's grand vision.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhviTTVW5_Lap1FR5FZ0rTf2TNNsFJM5Mhtk7P6nuL6pFAGDQQxSmRX7jAqcIScIoHzziT7kUmoOEsvkRFHWKDR0fJWWGXf6D12W55wuSL_di7LGIZjIF-8lqCgrp_wGdi3jMI6wdCDkphj/s1600/DSC_3107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhviTTVW5_Lap1FR5FZ0rTf2TNNsFJM5Mhtk7P6nuL6pFAGDQQxSmRX7jAqcIScIoHzziT7kUmoOEsvkRFHWKDR0fJWWGXf6D12W55wuSL_di7LGIZjIF-8lqCgrp_wGdi3jMI6wdCDkphj/s1600/DSC_3107.jpg" height="320" width="191" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Obelisk of Luxor<br />
in the heart of Paris</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I landed at Charles de Gaulle airport and, after an initial spell of complete bamboozlement trying to sort out how to get from point A to point B – in French,no less... <i>sacre bleu!</i> – I took a pair of trains to my destination, the station at the Place de la Concorde. Another fun fact: I emerged from underground in the city of Paris for the first time right at the spot where the French Revolution reached its apex (or its nadir, I suppose, depending on your perspective) with the public execution of King Louis XVI. It was cloudy, lightly raining off and on, and cold; naturally, I was disoriented and unsure of the direction to go to reach my hotel, the lovely Mandarin Oriental, which was proclaimed as "only a five-minute walk from Concorde station." Never mind that the station has multiple exit points and there was no direction given. However, before heading off with my luggage in tow and getting progressively cold, wet, and lost, I snapped this photo, rather liking the strong vertical elements present in the composition. The obelisk in the center, as I later learned, is the genuine article, a staggeringly old artifact given to France by the leader of Egypt in 1829. The 3,300-year-old obelisk had previously marked the entrance to Luxor Temple, and its hieroglyphs represent the reign of Ramses II. Getting the 280-ton granite monument to Paris proved to be a significant challenge in the early 19th century, so the diagrams on the pedestal base of the obelisk recount and detail the transportation feat. After over three millennia standing sentry in Egypt, the obelisk has now presided over the Place de la Concorde for close to two hundred years. In the miserable wet cold that heralded my arrival, it felt like it took very nearly that long to finally track down my hotel. A providential nip into the nearby Westin paid handsome dividends as they kindly printed off a map and pointed me in the right direction of the Mandarin.<br />
<br />
A top memory of my time in Paris, during which the sun remained shyly hidden behind a veil of gray clouds and the temperature hovered between 40-45°F (about 4-7°C) was – on more than one occasion – getting a fresh, warm baguette from one of several <i>boulangeries </i>near my hotel. It wasn't that uncommon to see people walking around in their coats and scarves, with a small baguette in hand, eating it plain. Good bread is one of life's simplest pleasures, and it's not hard to find loads of those pleasures attached to culinary pursuits while in France. When adjusted to a common currency, it's said that Paris has the most expensive bread in the world. That is likely so, but I was still able to score half-baguettes, plenty for my needs, for half a Euro or so, which is only eight times as much as a similar offering in Kuala Lumpur, but hey:<i> It's freaking Paris</i>, whaddya expect, right?! So, piles of outgoing cash notwithstanding, it goes without saying that the food was j'mazing. J'incredible. J'worth the trip for that alone. Get a tissue to mop up the drool: I'll group most of the food shots together here... :)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVZ-nYYZ2jnGT_LooUQCMS29Xnob3uzIN9vgDmRDN_SXyhH9XENXjbVzLnEp1wBPJ8o90D4JnBRbwEVHXzWZ31hTVDFaBiq2oeaEFiPseBV68DH_7vyke85gPG31nuW5_f6VpVEKcEdyTu/s1600/DSC_3120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVZ-nYYZ2jnGT_LooUQCMS29Xnob3uzIN9vgDmRDN_SXyhH9XENXjbVzLnEp1wBPJ8o90D4JnBRbwEVHXzWZ31hTVDFaBiq2oeaEFiPseBV68DH_7vyke85gPG31nuW5_f6VpVEKcEdyTu/s1600/DSC_3120.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apart from eating out, one delight was<br />
bringing fresh bread back to the room<br />
(along with a bottle of wine, of course)<br />
and making a delicious sandwich</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuJ0a36DWR2MgKVN6PjqZCLdl9LdhLOUOpLg7CW8yXg9am1SFvnQfwvR42EUO8cADw_BmCFnXOSRLN95of2XPcDHHcEqFEuONMU4T_HbtQi_ikmNIVribtmSp6YBH3ln06__uDRUNgpj5a/s1600/DSC_3124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuJ0a36DWR2MgKVN6PjqZCLdl9LdhLOUOpLg7CW8yXg9am1SFvnQfwvR42EUO8cADw_BmCFnXOSRLN95of2XPcDHHcEqFEuONMU4T_HbtQi_ikmNIVribtmSp6YBH3ln06__uDRUNgpj5a/s1600/DSC_3124.jpg" height="201" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little explosions of berries and fruit at the <i>patisserie</i><br />
just down from the hotel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ql5lD-8L5aij-s9c8BXUDJW5IUqQwO-cXrIk4yoOl_vjJsPmEoLsNqJe7JO93la08lvv1bJnVKgojpBbJNd5HXpG7OQGI-uNMXR_8MtUfQd3x3wJfC0yAapJePq6RdxlWNfv87Bc9qms/s1600/DSC_3125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ql5lD-8L5aij-s9c8BXUDJW5IUqQwO-cXrIk4yoOl_vjJsPmEoLsNqJe7JO93la08lvv1bJnVKgojpBbJNd5HXpG7OQGI-uNMXR_8MtUfQd3x3wJfC0yAapJePq6RdxlWNfv87Bc9qms/s1600/DSC_3125.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Custards, cakes, crème brûlées... though I don't have<br />
much of a serious sweet tooth, I can't deny this<br />
was a tempting line-up!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioP5uNWzoHPu6oh8pB8tmeyVdsirPXorlE5nxrg1OeyKBseIbFFKhj16jaM9QrkXspkNR8NqH84ywA-q5aOBI9M48jUu6bU9u-QsUuG34oV13QmLx6c_pKTVKBXPH2AM6rGwBstzdoLLvm/s1600/DSC_3209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioP5uNWzoHPu6oh8pB8tmeyVdsirPXorlE5nxrg1OeyKBseIbFFKhj16jaM9QrkXspkNR8NqH84ywA-q5aOBI9M48jUu6bU9u-QsUuG34oV13QmLx6c_pKTVKBXPH2AM6rGwBstzdoLLvm/s1600/DSC_3209.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breakfast in the hotel... fine French cheeses,<br />
berries, salmon, mini-baguettes, yogurt, and more:<br />
this was a meal not to be rushed at all!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuq2pZB59nq_xoCcWFHpYAe1h77pCXWvNh0UV-FO1YocN83gUmx3ReFGQWiXRlATYOmB8AvFBQe5SzRZ-cwxi2gYCTr77FZ1dlvjqMtwqhzVJVbGE3lB4BpEElBqAoAP4EpgMMEYAaoP3H/s1600/DSC_3212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuq2pZB59nq_xoCcWFHpYAe1h77pCXWvNh0UV-FO1YocN83gUmx3ReFGQWiXRlATYOmB8AvFBQe5SzRZ-cwxi2gYCTr77FZ1dlvjqMtwqhzVJVbGE3lB4BpEElBqAoAP4EpgMMEYAaoP3H/s1600/DSC_3212.jpg" height="215" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I had never seen this before... basically spiral-shaved cheese,<br />
done by a tool called a <i>girolle</i>, which creates rosette-like<br />
slices of this particular variety of cheese,<br />
the Swiss <i>Tête de Moine</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUjBu6qmZvVKZnGvmQKs5p1URpmbgaf6iaX_j_FAdG6AKSVF_yPVuxNhJ6Wv3oQ1ct5kWf_4jd2De4oxQOYBYxhrUN2AUbZsJRcMra5yDqjL4qh7k2_C_I6gpDJbKwseSClSjSRnut850/s1600/DSC_3264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUjBu6qmZvVKZnGvmQKs5p1URpmbgaf6iaX_j_FAdG6AKSVF_yPVuxNhJ6Wv3oQ1ct5kWf_4jd2De4oxQOYBYxhrUN2AUbZsJRcMra5yDqjL4qh7k2_C_I6gpDJbKwseSClSjSRnut850/s1600/DSC_3264.jpg" height="218" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making crêpes in an open-air shop near the Trocadéro,<br />
directly across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Of course, it was no surprise that Paris consistently delighted me with great food and wine. It's just an inseparable part of the culture of France, and it was a common sight, even in the dead of winter, to see friends sitting outside a café under a radiant quartz heater, enjoying a bottle of wine in the cool, damp air.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgLxfHVVGCL0UCxH97VAAfwrSPRexQadhmag7kLEXrddAeQzuAVcgmAH_NJBnPKjr7aTHdUSImH5Nl7lueFXHfM90qC4ZIgiVYIpDl4yB_Bpvfv1DU1rQmrE9tol1Jru8fuE4EwjLZHX7L/s1600/DSC_3238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgLxfHVVGCL0UCxH97VAAfwrSPRexQadhmag7kLEXrddAeQzuAVcgmAH_NJBnPKjr7aTHdUSImH5Nl7lueFXHfM90qC4ZIgiVYIpDl4yB_Bpvfv1DU1rQmrE9tol1Jru8fuE4EwjLZHX7L/s1600/DSC_3238.jpg" height="209" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All French, all the time: a staggering selection of rosé,<br />
red, and white in a small supermarket I visited</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In the supermarkets, the country's bond with wine was perhaps even on greater display. Even in a small neighborhood supermarket, it was still a vast wall of wines that greeted me, stretching the entire length of an aisle and comprising nearly exclusively French wines... a few other countries would be represented, but perhaps only 5% of the total stock in the stores into which I wandered.<br />
<br />
I saw rather a lot in my relatively short time in Paris (just four days and three nights), but among my favorite places surely must have been the Louvre. Quite apart from the priceless collection of art contained within, the palace itself – built, expanded, destroyed, and rebuilt and augmented repeatedly over a seven-century span – is a stunning treasure beyond belief. The architecture, history, and craftsmanship on display simply boggles the mind... and that's <i>before </i>even wandering into the vast museum, a place in which you could easily spend days and days and still not see everything.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-wL7r_NRoDjNOk1wujl6Cyf3s_nJXl9ZoV1tNY-8orMtbrUQHc-CtxNejL5Hvq7uChaLz1WNwdckT6kRe7OZnavnxiFe2s2R-cYadU1afJ_N5Eo2VmTlCdkn9jRBtMqSZnOkJbhOOER3I/s1600/DSC_3177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-wL7r_NRoDjNOk1wujl6Cyf3s_nJXl9ZoV1tNY-8orMtbrUQHc-CtxNejL5Hvq7uChaLz1WNwdckT6kRe7OZnavnxiFe2s2R-cYadU1afJ_N5Eo2VmTlCdkn9jRBtMqSZnOkJbhOOER3I/s1600/DSC_3177.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the oldest courtyard of the Louvre Palace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvjNN0H3bQutA7oLjZWROAGjLnfmchiOjDtfaVEe7WZ84nxqbCtGnZ2zs-ipRAjpqX3eLvHYDuHute9pvc_J8TQp-qJhLnFpZQIdYYKhbIq9Sim9JQdemLD-rtFsEwDOlaVjw4uayRodbp/s1600/DSC_3187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvjNN0H3bQutA7oLjZWROAGjLnfmchiOjDtfaVEe7WZ84nxqbCtGnZ2zs-ipRAjpqX3eLvHYDuHute9pvc_J8TQp-qJhLnFpZQIdYYKhbIq9Sim9JQdemLD-rtFsEwDOlaVjw4uayRodbp/s1600/DSC_3187.jpg" height="320" width="235" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the smaller glass pyramids outside<br />
the Louvre</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Lh3u-5h2zT74-mXRKKBY5swA1wTgYND9I_KpxpmKWB28rlRU-ZFnBbzDBz1RJQVtaW9IgHtABtrNR7NCRJEzzQaya2l7NwwSGk_wZzCirgHsWkE0RWwOUeUYr5KuBS2SvJG7RxwmRDnu/s1600/DSC_3313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Lh3u-5h2zT74-mXRKKBY5swA1wTgYND9I_KpxpmKWB28rlRU-ZFnBbzDBz1RJQVtaW9IgHtABtrNR7NCRJEzzQaya2l7NwwSGk_wZzCirgHsWkE0RWwOUeUYr5KuBS2SvJG7RxwmRDnu/s1600/DSC_3313.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the <i>Cour Carrée</i> ("square courtyard")<br />
of the Louvre</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU1MJD_jT6X1izhVHgaS7QX6IW3iVmVfWBNUlyYSHF0UIMadKd0uXl5yMSRGlNEadcomvCZxrlQP5JvJItD-V9dUr64jNUlfW8W3yN73zNjzg1Apam1hBeG2akaHH1aNORxWOI_CodtkEN/s1600/DSC_3319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU1MJD_jT6X1izhVHgaS7QX6IW3iVmVfWBNUlyYSHF0UIMadKd0uXl5yMSRGlNEadcomvCZxrlQP5JvJItD-V9dUr64jNUlfW8W3yN73zNjzg1Apam1hBeG2akaHH1aNORxWOI_CodtkEN/s1600/DSC_3319.jpg" height="320" width="251" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pavillion Mollien in the "new" wing,<br />
still some 200 years old</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUpfDMj3Bso64w_RSWBCOlHp1Dm5tbWQgnvxq0Sl9MnHuv-nXWzW47eIxRBMPEfjY_zFpiJrO4mCM5hGAvHghlYXDgAXA-TLNlsknSj_a50-ijAlcTnS2e0Ma28VQEdMmgUwsjr8sDwYR/s1600/DSC_3184.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUpfDMj3Bso64w_RSWBCOlHp1Dm5tbWQgnvxq0Sl9MnHuv-nXWzW47eIxRBMPEfjY_zFpiJrO4mCM5hGAvHghlYXDgAXA-TLNlsknSj_a50-ijAlcTnS2e0Ma28VQEdMmgUwsjr8sDwYR/s1600/DSC_3184.jpg" height="211" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last addition to the Louvre, the glass pyramids, completed in 1989</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggwWycM4vlp_-Ltro8cudMs2iRve6q3se7T7iPi69mXMfJu8k9S-TtivWfU71LfYQWCUfMtBEk2qn6vOAXK-k8KaJR11edD5KWsDSysp-qPRBowHhqeqFT-35BKPyQQHRJpAhMCqVddMA_/s1600/DSC_3311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggwWycM4vlp_-Ltro8cudMs2iRve6q3se7T7iPi69mXMfJu8k9S-TtivWfU71LfYQWCUfMtBEk2qn6vOAXK-k8KaJR11edD5KWsDSysp-qPRBowHhqeqFT-35BKPyQQHRJpAhMCqVddMA_/s1600/DSC_3311.jpg" height="223" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pavillion Turgot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCOua8pMOo5Ui_BaWQqAJow4GttgLtPCfXlII-hwY81cICUQ3xEOwVS_4_PfEc7SSLM0E18zzEEh_hIQzpz0-n84DOt4HPGtgk_OHhOwIiPhXFPe6O9mmxLnOjUCoRDZ6YqofERxzcsJBp/s1600/DSC_3197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCOua8pMOo5Ui_BaWQqAJow4GttgLtPCfXlII-hwY81cICUQ3xEOwVS_4_PfEc7SSLM0E18zzEEh_hIQzpz0-n84DOt4HPGtgk_OHhOwIiPhXFPe6O9mmxLnOjUCoRDZ6YqofERxzcsJBp/s1600/DSC_3197.jpg" height="189" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pavillion Denon and barren trees contrasted by<br />
surprisingly green grass in the dead of winter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS9alAQhcg9nyXmarx_Q6oDwwobOHqasc2qNZ8Ifvluncwyz5495eKtt6bM4jCU5psQPentBrINa6Gnkg_pIJ6ToWn6sY3Bw_WxNmAyi-XxEugxfFG-hiOCZASAd4E1o14EgdN_xmRReCo/s1600/DSC_3196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS9alAQhcg9nyXmarx_Q6oDwwobOHqasc2qNZ8Ifvluncwyz5495eKtt6bM4jCU5psQPentBrINa6Gnkg_pIJ6ToWn6sY3Bw_WxNmAyi-XxEugxfFG-hiOCZASAd4E1o14EgdN_xmRReCo/s1600/DSC_3196.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ohhh, the anguish!<br />
Is he distraught because he's rather<br />
humiliatingly being used as a perch,<br />
or because of his wee tiny penis?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
A close runner-up, though, would surely be the Cathedral of Notre-Dame, located on the southeastern quadrant of the Île de la Cité, one of the two remaining natural islands in the middle of the Seine. Construction on Notre-Dame started in 1163 and continued for nearly two centuries (though most of the building was completed by 1250), culminating in what is today widely considered one of the premier examples of French Gothic architecture to be found anywhere. The cathedral, to put it mildly, is stunning. Having undergone an extensive and delicate restoration begun in 1991 (and which may still be underway, but was definitely so as of 2010), Notre-Dame looks terrific today. I eschewed the typical wide-angle shots we've all seen a thousand times in favor of some different compositions, and frankly, the dismal weather didn't lend itself well to the sweeping images of the cathedral's eastern and southern façades, with those graceful flying buttresses, so I stayed on the western side and shot from there. Even for a non-religious person like me, Notre-Dame is a spectacular place to visit, truly one of the most important and historically rich buildings in all of Paris, which is saying something!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmMddoRMxOS41rO40y9a60dMTcA3C25Ys4XsJnIpoyCrIP5_bq5R8H5Akd8yzF1Iwik9Cf9a5BdjXbm-k_T-kI1jY0M8iy1MKRxkqZpW6uL_BG50DlzUrYzqble1WKTGRxgQhhWlYTJTU0/s1600/DSC_3155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmMddoRMxOS41rO40y9a60dMTcA3C25Ys4XsJnIpoyCrIP5_bq5R8H5Akd8yzF1Iwik9Cf9a5BdjXbm-k_T-kI1jY0M8iy1MKRxkqZpW6uL_BG50DlzUrYzqble1WKTGRxgQhhWlYTJTU0/s1600/DSC_3155.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All the little saints, lined up in a row...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3kbUcTNnKw1nNVrxZ8XX2uarhRhmPZgs47FfPpF4qsnmJqovGbGpdmf8Mu3fRyctq7OWZfoMFWJVtqAqvY0t59O6sPsrYTiadpmCDhVOnG_Gbpfz8auRHmQiXFXK36_WyDBKFPNj_VIgQ/s1600/DSC_3156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3kbUcTNnKw1nNVrxZ8XX2uarhRhmPZgs47FfPpF4qsnmJqovGbGpdmf8Mu3fRyctq7OWZfoMFWJVtqAqvY0t59O6sPsrYTiadpmCDhVOnG_Gbpfz8auRHmQiXFXK36_WyDBKFPNj_VIgQ/s1600/DSC_3156.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I know Notre-Dame isn't the only place to<br />
use gargoyles as rain gutter spouts, but it<br />
may have been among the first</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
On my second day in Paris, I made what was unquestionably the best purchase of the entire mini Euro-odyssey: a quality scarf and pair of "Thinsulate" gloves from a newsstand around the corner from my hotel. The gloves were good to have, I suppose, but really, it was that scarf that made the difference. I noticed that nearly all the Parisian denizens bopping about on the streets were "bescarved," so I presumed there was something to be said for the things. I've never really been much of a scarf-wearer, personally, but I found that insulating that gaping space where your neck pops out of your under- and over-garments really helps. And so it was that my €4 scarf became an indispensable part of my travel wardrobe.<br />
<br />
I was only in the City of Light for a scant four days, and though I squeezed in quite a bit (not everything generated blog-worthy photos), the time sailed by, and soon, I found myself navigating my way through the city, with considerably less clumsiness than days prior, to the Gare de Lyon rail station to catch the high-speed TGV train to Barcelona for the second part of my holiday. A few final photo memories, though...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcIEcWa_MripLEYDpI_F33HJraXMR6SIqmunZMe4t46O3pJ39L0DeuqrHfPt8CGAg8BpWAt83iqsgTk4nNxXK1_b0xLWkZNa19w06oeGW5wKiczB_e_YcDer1ApAPrTymHdbaxrrx_AjhP/s1600/DSC_3232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcIEcWa_MripLEYDpI_F33HJraXMR6SIqmunZMe4t46O3pJ39L0DeuqrHfPt8CGAg8BpWAt83iqsgTk4nNxXK1_b0xLWkZNa19w06oeGW5wKiczB_e_YcDer1ApAPrTymHdbaxrrx_AjhP/s1600/DSC_3232.jpg" height="400" width="288" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was a special memory. I was in the 7th<br />
<i>arrondisement </i>one evening – really just wandering –<br />
rounded a corner, and this was what I saw. Nothing<br />
like a big, unexpected steaming pile of Eiffel Tower<br />
to remind you that you're in Paris, eh?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtkW7R4DsQTPOYnPItyDh4nRUzhwXbSNPcHvdvqZg9rqnbM3QOlk4fhNmp73F320J5kiFI8ZcNN3xVCUHcPlXn9BFrcOBYu2J8cBtNZDP4GqIQiv6ZsESxbvan-YIPQp2RY1NgCKLvlOJH/s1600/DSC_3249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtkW7R4DsQTPOYnPItyDh4nRUzhwXbSNPcHvdvqZg9rqnbM3QOlk4fhNmp73F320J5kiFI8ZcNN3xVCUHcPlXn9BFrcOBYu2J8cBtNZDP4GqIQiv6ZsESxbvan-YIPQp2RY1NgCKLvlOJH/s1600/DSC_3249.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After the chance sighting, I made a more<br />
purposeful course correction to catch the famed<br />
tower in the last lingering vestiges of winter's<br />
deep blue daylight</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkspFZ6Se3ayd6w7n0tuBAaboxJYxRXf6_UrXBZO-WWnAyyvifvswXJ9MtmqEwurB8anNHcFFP1-WrCTndOVtvcO13ltznRv1tI0WoyWXmbl-yI19E3NNT5aoZrDdGQft0CL0hyVtsabRh/s1600/DSC_3280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkspFZ6Se3ayd6w7n0tuBAaboxJYxRXf6_UrXBZO-WWnAyyvifvswXJ9MtmqEwurB8anNHcFFP1-WrCTndOVtvcO13ltznRv1tI0WoyWXmbl-yI19E3NNT5aoZrDdGQft0CL0hyVtsabRh/s1600/DSC_3280.jpg" height="400" width="246" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The awning, the warm neon, the 1920s<br />
cabaret-style font in the signage... this was<br />
too much to let my camera pass up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT01cu5UFiem85TcR0bWCkJSzUwdjJqb_tgSs1yOmB2X-Nc2N36TIzfl8Jp0StB4cvNKsmPupZCP4tp1UO3o4SgHYBWBAwwYQYpLmw1peHlaCpZh4gSKdqLaJnwtRthVKDCi2ZUYHf6Ez5/s1600/DSC_3287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT01cu5UFiem85TcR0bWCkJSzUwdjJqb_tgSs1yOmB2X-Nc2N36TIzfl8Jp0StB4cvNKsmPupZCP4tp1UO3o4SgHYBWBAwwYQYpLmw1peHlaCpZh4gSKdqLaJnwtRthVKDCi2ZUYHf6Ez5/s1600/DSC_3287.jpg" height="268" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sentinel of the Seine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMm7FMwAms3bjDbyGgcjb8q1g8vMfo-mc-gQFbl5korfHpPEUReS-ICU9KoIhqPRz8SZiPzqWwyhohVo_1pwRUmizm4rg91klltb3JKHanxsui0AvoRlQJDoVTEwwwDh9Wn_My_akhFEIw/s1600/DSC_3350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMm7FMwAms3bjDbyGgcjb8q1g8vMfo-mc-gQFbl5korfHpPEUReS-ICU9KoIhqPRz8SZiPzqWwyhohVo_1pwRUmizm4rg91klltb3JKHanxsui0AvoRlQJDoVTEwwwDh9Wn_My_akhFEIw/s1600/DSC_3350.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Though I indeed stayed at the excellent<br />
Mandarin Oriental Paris, I was not <i>quite </i>privileged<br />
enough to stay in the finest suite there, though I did<br />
get a peek... this is the view from the bathtub... :)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGiiyHezRpS-lYtpajplx83IwFSQvkrNwJnFFwtH-jwWWbRaxn2OyJfVvBirIyG4WtF60dkTVFBjfew9dmAqP1ndPG5760BFYs8vMhkTZsWma9h0JMHd306q_2QheS9zkCGRjr737t5QFE/s1600/1280px-Paris_gare-de-Lyon.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGiiyHezRpS-lYtpajplx83IwFSQvkrNwJnFFwtH-jwWWbRaxn2OyJfVvBirIyG4WtF60dkTVFBjfew9dmAqP1ndPG5760BFYs8vMhkTZsWma9h0JMHd306q_2QheS9zkCGRjr737t5QFE/s1600/1280px-Paris_gare-de-Lyon.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The entrance and clock tower of the Paris-Gare de Lyon<br />
railway station</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG4FvmHZyKyIU5X6l0Libmtisejvm9t6rTu5ks8VtzddB3icZ-GQCMqS0KioUF2kx-8XVVwSkYee5KH2e3Jyqx0oa-0V1iUDW9QVrs-8PtwAE3i7som77-K0J1ha_uleWB7rknqcjMJEwM/s1600/DSC_3355.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG4FvmHZyKyIU5X6l0Libmtisejvm9t6rTu5ks8VtzddB3icZ-GQCMqS0KioUF2kx-8XVVwSkYee5KH2e3Jyqx0oa-0V1iUDW9QVrs-8PtwAE3i7som77-K0J1ha_uleWB7rknqcjMJEwM/s1600/DSC_3355.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Paris-Gare de Lyon, just before boarding the TGV for<br />
the high-speed rail trip to Barcelona!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglswRvL8xxsHcEeZyj70i1ioxLrm-RNidiPoRrqLSzL7oHqmnosDcd5KJOq_Cah0kLlnza5voq52mbxOBRkQlE3YMG69vMoU2Ly9C2hLsaLeqAxvPfrw5VlEYSAWROhOKrbAEA-UM08i8X/s1600/DSC_3361.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglswRvL8xxsHcEeZyj70i1ioxLrm-RNidiPoRrqLSzL7oHqmnosDcd5KJOq_Cah0kLlnza5voq52mbxOBRkQlE3YMG69vMoU2Ly9C2hLsaLeqAxvPfrw5VlEYSAWROhOKrbAEA-UM08i8X/s1600/DSC_3361.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And this was another splendid memory... from my seat onboard the<br />
train, a baguette from a French <i>boulangerie</i>, stuffed with salami and Dijon<br />
mustard, a bottle of Evian, a bottle of pretty respectable Bordeaux, and<br />
a Kindle full of reading pleasures...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And there it is, my first visit to the storied city of Paris, France. I myself can hardly believe it took well into my 40s to get there, but it didn't disappoint and certainly piqued more than enough interest and desire to merit another trip, though preferably at a warmer time of year.<br />
<br />
Next stop... Catalonia and the historic Mediterranean city of food, fun, and a boundless zeal for life that has made it a destination beloved worldwide: Barcelona, Spain.<br />
<br />Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-81393913287802042422014-02-16T03:05:00.001-07:002014-02-17T07:07:13.046-07:00Back to Langkawi: Adventures with Aeolus<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX6y3KfzomPWR4KhczBOKGwF1ob74EneUN8t4m2Ux0-rmKMvzL50IVh6itJoI3W1WsCwhQ3ItyWrZPRRTz_QtbehFBE-qaw8DhR_ND-gnI7p5vSiJtSD-3gUoFT4FZYR7QGkugaI1rjEyG/s1600/DSC_2813+(Custom).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX6y3KfzomPWR4KhczBOKGwF1ob74EneUN8t4m2Ux0-rmKMvzL50IVh6itJoI3W1WsCwhQ3ItyWrZPRRTz_QtbehFBE-qaw8DhR_ND-gnI7p5vSiJtSD-3gUoFT4FZYR7QGkugaI1rjEyG/s1600/DSC_2813+(Custom).jpg" height="320" width="215" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The New Zealand crew unfurls their<br />
spinnaker and harnesses the wind</td></tr>
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Yeah, nobody's going to read this one because the title won't be understood by anyone not possessing at least a passing acquaintance with Greek mythology, so I'll keep it light on the text, throw in a few pictures, and move on to the European vacation entries.<br />
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A few weeks ago (in mid-January), I was invited up to enjoy the spectacle of the 12th Annual Royal Langkawi International Regatta, yet inexplicably, they never use the word "annual" in the title of their event, which strikes me as odd. It's been held every year for 12 years now, at around the same time each year. So why is it not referred to as an annual event? Nobody seems to know, but for whatever reason, it's just the "12th regatta" there. Whatever. I've long given up on trying to understand the peculiarities and nuances of Malaysian English.<br />
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Being at the regatta was a great experience for me. I'm always happy when I'm on the water, and the gorgeous scenery in the waters around Langkawi Island never fails to impress. Speeding away from the sheltered harbor at the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club courtesy of a pair of 200-hp Yamaha outboards, it took us less than 15 minutes to reach our destination: just outside the race course for the thrilling action of, yes, the 12th Royal Langkawi International Regatta (RLIR). Drawing some 350 sailors crewing 44 yachts from 16 countries, this year’s regatta saw terrific weather and race-friendly winds on virtually all five racing days during the competition. Set against the beautiful backdrop of the cluster of Langkawi’s many islands and the emerald waters of the Andaman Sea, these nautical speedsters harnessed the brisk winds and put their considerable sailing skills on display. The spectacle of a small fleet of sleek yachts listing precipitously into the wind, with their crews deftly maneuvering the sails and unfurling billowing spinnakers to harness the power of the wind was seriously adrenaline-charged sight to behold. For me, of course, the challenge lay merely in getting a few good shots while bouncing and bobbing on the choppy seas.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqSZt_q_RZa2-cbTfXsBGOl0CQNGZ2MqAPb8JTxPKy57ohIJA0cGnKjrE0Hn0hyQChtGu4MrKwZWM8PfFEVwSWqJcl4Tsfm-iKyjiJi9xByAK5W1B3Aim6fqmA7RVVxUzFz_e1BnjfJ_Ah/s1600/DSC_2780+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqSZt_q_RZa2-cbTfXsBGOl0CQNGZ2MqAPb8JTxPKy57ohIJA0cGnKjrE0Hn0hyQChtGu4MrKwZWM8PfFEVwSWqJcl4Tsfm-iKyjiJi9xByAK5W1B3Aim6fqmA7RVVxUzFz_e1BnjfJ_Ah/s1600/DSC_2780+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Their sails backlit against misty mountains rising from<br />
the Andaman Sea, the sailors are ready to race!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGgJckaxtMEvbzaaVb-JNogXGpUAN_NcIU0wrHwATixLxWQ2m6eB1z25xYef7X0ZsqdwwYQQh1WbWJ_OhyphenhyphenlrGVIPz2pbPSijzYILpAWfEMTu5ShsIrnpE5OKtFlQMsa9O8_g98rVNM6Ki-/s1600/DSC_2944+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGgJckaxtMEvbzaaVb-JNogXGpUAN_NcIU0wrHwATixLxWQ2m6eB1z25xYef7X0ZsqdwwYQQh1WbWJ_OhyphenhyphenlrGVIPz2pbPSijzYILpAWfEMTu5ShsIrnpE5OKtFlQMsa9O8_g98rVNM6Ki-/s1600/DSC_2944+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" height="231" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crew of <i>Jelik </i>move as one with discipline and<br />
experience to capture the full power of the 24-knot winds</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKznIaP835jWUi-k31GLd526CJaeaBtlql_x4a6tmLm5pz6BC-OfHMP8Tuw7AQDkxdTt2G__vJPx8UavC7MDAKWsphi4n03ryBuN3-CpIKE3pRXx8oAITpcy_sNXXl2M7f3lXtVD8CIvQk/s1600/DSC_2787+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKznIaP835jWUi-k31GLd526CJaeaBtlql_x4a6tmLm5pz6BC-OfHMP8Tuw7AQDkxdTt2G__vJPx8UavC7MDAKWsphi4n03ryBuN3-CpIKE3pRXx8oAITpcy_sNXXl2M7f3lXtVD8CIvQk/s1600/DSC_2787+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" height="284" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crews from New Zealand, Hong Kong, and Malaysia<br />
let their spinnakers fly to narrow the gap late in the race</td></tr>
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I'd never seen racing yachts with their sails full of wind zipping across the sea like this, turning their main sails into the stiff winds and, to this layman's eyes, looking many times as if they were perilously close to capsizing. I was particularly impressed with how fast they could stow the huge spinnaker once they pulled it down. Typically, from start to finish, the exercise took less than 30 seconds and the massive sail was not only down, but completely out of sight.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD7rjRTryiP5d7RKnD9zHoexj-apdv_Mfu7AHovMWEFd4qh-xqHxBSI5UijL_gXTApettOGlx49HtBoYvIrafVQmY-FtYjq1thAcdirPljIVUrqqN1teXxSnnGEpmQhXNcJQmR-6UNjrhu/s1600/DSC_2936+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD7rjRTryiP5d7RKnD9zHoexj-apdv_Mfu7AHovMWEFd4qh-xqHxBSI5UijL_gXTApettOGlx49HtBoYvIrafVQmY-FtYjq1thAcdirPljIVUrqqN1teXxSnnGEpmQhXNcJQmR-6UNjrhu/s1600/DSC_2936+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" height="390" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crew and yacht that would ultimately claim the top prize,<br />
the Australian-based <i>Oi!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZq4x0YZ4fyIm-N1eGUFUhRIH0Jqr_zXryvHdoAmmMrQP2xN7NUkQdOtw53x0nun4pU9MO-V4yD8q9ovFlnNtD0k09yn8Oc-e2J1qkBvSb4C_NHOed9bInljexe2XHDkK8kPUEUSfMPUG7/s1600/DSC_2843+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZq4x0YZ4fyIm-N1eGUFUhRIH0Jqr_zXryvHdoAmmMrQP2xN7NUkQdOtw53x0nun4pU9MO-V4yD8q9ovFlnNtD0k09yn8Oc-e2J1qkBvSb4C_NHOed9bInljexe2XHDkK8kPUEUSfMPUG7/s1600/DSC_2843+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" height="311" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The grandeur of a masthead spinnaker on full display, as the entire<br />
crew of <i>Jelik </i>take their position on the starboard side for balance</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXSqRhDZlbi3rhR0oP3gZE0wSyTkmt4CjEdsP2cettw9Xt4CLBOj8acTG2y-Kzz7i5-GreGxcv9FMbc9Z70ulIflIs3pd3RomRy8nPNZse4pOHWLOTZEwc8UYTcybpsJFmUzsK7D2uaP4/s1600/DSC_2945+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXSqRhDZlbi3rhR0oP3gZE0wSyTkmt4CjEdsP2cettw9Xt4CLBOj8acTG2y-Kzz7i5-GreGxcv9FMbc9Z70ulIflIs3pd3RomRy8nPNZse4pOHWLOTZEwc8UYTcybpsJFmUzsK7D2uaP4/s1600/DSC_2945+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" height="320" width="219" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Jelik </i>carves a path through the sea</td></tr>
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It was a real treat to be on hand for the RLIR, both for the days at sea, and also the dinners, cocktail parties, and events each evening, held at different venues around the island (though all close to the yacht club). The competition drew sailors, enthusiasts, and media from 16 countries, including relatively distant New Zealand, Russia, and Australia. In the end, it was a seasoned crew of Aussies (on a yacht named <i>Oi!</i>, naturally enough) who bagged the top prize, with a sizeable Hong Kong crew manning the sails on the regatta's largest boat and runner-up, an impressive 77-footer called <i>Jelik</i>, a vessel to which my camera was continually drawn. Malaysia had a handful of entrants, too, the most notable being the pair of boats often called "the twins" for obvious reasons seen here.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwRYlE_cbC6dFzj85wriyChrlOxIifoVR88SRwgbTrmfeq3hHGCElIzERb9Iukkichmmxv79uyEA_uO2Um1spoNKEQ0_KfiYJMNmxTFshIB9S4gt65WlufBB6ZppXXAazu3qVeP-7Le_b1/s1600/DSC_2884+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwRYlE_cbC6dFzj85wriyChrlOxIifoVR88SRwgbTrmfeq3hHGCElIzERb9Iukkichmmxv79uyEA_uO2Um1spoNKEQ0_KfiYJMNmxTFshIB9S4gt65WlufBB6ZppXXAazu3qVeP-7Le_b1/s1600/DSC_2884+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" height="345" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Malaysia's twin racers, <i>Utarid </i>and <i>Uranus</i>, race by in tight symmetry</td></tr>
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Surely, the exhilaration of competing in the waters surrounding Langkawi – apart from its eponymous main island, the archipelago actually includes dozens of smaller islands – must ascribe some of its pleasures to the sheer beauty of the area. With the blue-green waters of the Andaman Sea and northern extreme of the Straits of Malacca punctuated by a host of densely forested islands and dramatic limestone karsts, with sea eagles and Brahminy kites circling lazily overhead, the scenery here is certainly a visual feast. Langkawi rightly receives much praise for its laid-back island vibe, luxurious resorts, and fine beaches, but stepping off the land and going out to sea here, for me at least, added an entirely new dimension to the appreciation of this island.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZkTurAdkdwLx3-noaYWswRIxurm0C1A1nDUYfYe7x9S_Ncyq0hxCPl6tIDs4oGyW3eWToIg-yFY79b9Q_SmEu1zcPiGzqV8ckZlLml7wXbStWcbuAp5jyDotMdbEplRbGGfbsOf305gli/s1600/DSC_2887+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZkTurAdkdwLx3-noaYWswRIxurm0C1A1nDUYfYe7x9S_Ncyq0hxCPl6tIDs4oGyW3eWToIg-yFY79b9Q_SmEu1zcPiGzqV8ckZlLml7wXbStWcbuAp5jyDotMdbEplRbGGfbsOf305gli/s1600/DSC_2887+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" height="173" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The seamanship of Malaysia's naval crews on display</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwehmzXVbUoJxsehPEAu6A0fwimyfMNgVFSHszMvNr9Jk4GuSWcwTrFK6IWqu8eMS-cC5dVmbfTYo_c0iRi4bY-a3Dq5Q0d7fnq1Cwz7qvBBHH0-WpVPA6jwui4yoM7yJD4yL2q9km-yA/s1600/DSC_3000+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwehmzXVbUoJxsehPEAu6A0fwimyfMNgVFSHszMvNr9Jk4GuSWcwTrFK6IWqu8eMS-cC5dVmbfTYo_c0iRi4bY-a3Dq5Q0d7fnq1Cwz7qvBBHH0-WpVPA6jwui4yoM7yJD4yL2q9km-yA/s1600/DSC_3000+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" height="217" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crew of <i>Oi! </i>cheer at the dockside trophy presentation...<br />
you'd think that thing would be a bit bigger, wouldn't you?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE9gKRGRIqNg3-92r01DAT1dAfI1imH4IuXG2t0dkHMTRAqp1zWXqMuEXN4tpmnMtYSkJz_Z2mqBTyD6uy88_7W7dbgeeognStLFlbLXI_LaoyM8JO9XjWjE9aRyfbsxuR8APYnkw24R3T/s1600/DSC_2934+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE9gKRGRIqNg3-92r01DAT1dAfI1imH4IuXG2t0dkHMTRAqp1zWXqMuEXN4tpmnMtYSkJz_Z2mqBTyD6uy88_7W7dbgeeognStLFlbLXI_LaoyM8JO9XjWjE9aRyfbsxuR8APYnkw24R3T/s1600/DSC_2934+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 77-foot <i>Jelik </i>under full sail</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO3InB1KEYJiY1qyV-mxtp0el1_EYze_vNc-lFzVPIGZybpdxQWzcs1Uink8Nss7MDTKBIV1nNs03EILBA4_3y4iAxLAgRKoEtsBQdeHRXImMZiYJprNusta4l2z1D943FG_ruSkyNPhVL/s1600/DSC_3026+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO3InB1KEYJiY1qyV-mxtp0el1_EYze_vNc-lFzVPIGZybpdxQWzcs1Uink8Nss7MDTKBIV1nNs03EILBA4_3y4iAxLAgRKoEtsBQdeHRXImMZiYJprNusta4l2z1D943FG_ruSkyNPhVL/s1600/DSC_3026+%2528Custom%2529.jpg" height="219" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset at the harbor on the final day, just before the<br />
big awards dinner</td></tr>
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Honestly, I always enjoy my visits to Langkawi, but this one was special simply because I got to do something really new and different. I can only imagine the sense of accomplishment and teamwork that comes from successfully manning a racing yacht in a competition like this. It was a fun few days, I learned a little about sailing (mostly, though, I just learned how very little I know), and made some really good memories... and hey, managed to get a few decent snapshots, too!<br />
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Aeolus, by the way, was the Greek god of the winds... naturally a deity much-revered at any regatta!Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-64954947865954325742014-01-26T05:06:00.001-07:002014-08-03T23:50:45.099-06:00The 2013 Retrospective, part twoFor all the traveling I did in 2013, I think I only added one new place to my passport, and that was Vietnam. I expect 2014 will be much better on that front as there are trips planned to France and Spain, with New Zealand, the Maldives, and Myanmar all distinct possibilities as well, all of which would represent new stamps in the passport. As for the second half of 2013, however... strap in for another long entry and loads of photos! Be sure to click on these to enlarge them. And away we go...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju-GtQOhyHTKwFArMSBq4G8IGthZ0iOc8PWwOOanwZINc50taZCjsNsN8RtG8rfO29MaDcNFVThuJ9TeYucsLSqISD4ynGyMSbEDa-mrKbI5xPmN2kyUPxRgRr3a0kI0d0QlDgXgfCPJx4/s1600/DSC_0503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju-GtQOhyHTKwFArMSBq4G8IGthZ0iOc8PWwOOanwZINc50taZCjsNsN8RtG8rfO29MaDcNFVThuJ9TeYucsLSqISD4ynGyMSbEDa-mrKbI5xPmN2kyUPxRgRr3a0kI0d0QlDgXgfCPJx4/s1600/DSC_0503.jpg" height="320" width="246" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh Cameron Highlands strawberries</td></tr>
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One of the highlights last year was a terrific weekend up at Cameron Highlands. This is a hill station district in Malaysia, about 120 miles by road from KL, but owing to the winding road to the Highlands once you get off the main highway, it's easily a three-hour drive. This was the first time I had been to Cameron Highlands since early 2010, I think, and it's still just as refreshing and enjoyable. Because of the altitude of the three townships comprising the Highlands – Ringlet, Tanah Rata, and Brinchang – temperatures here seldom rise much above the mid-70s (Fahrenheit), about 23-25°C, and nights routinely bring blissfully mild temperatures of 14-16°C (around 60°F). It's Peninsular Malaysia's highest point accessible by car, and a true tropical highland climate. Fruits and veggies well-adapted to temperate climates flourish in Cameron Highlands, where the altitude ranges from about 3,600 ft to 5,200 ft above sea level. Strawberries, cantaloupe, sweet corn, and perhaps the area's most famous crop, tea, all do quite well here.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFKX2Hea_j8MTF77leZt_MJWFF-yxGSm7mkbyqvu1WSuEKxeg0Z_oACDlslNT03ZNdHUOoGjgwPfZogfnljSDbeu0BVdzLIbY6N3CdavD9eDwdmD_0QLBROpM2pHt4tou0PLc6-W76Za39/s1600/Cameron_Highlands_edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFKX2Hea_j8MTF77leZt_MJWFF-yxGSm7mkbyqvu1WSuEKxeg0Z_oACDlslNT03ZNdHUOoGjgwPfZogfnljSDbeu0BVdzLIbY6N3CdavD9eDwdmD_0QLBROpM2pHt4tou0PLc6-W76Za39/s1600/Cameron_Highlands_edit.jpg" height="231" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tea plantation in the rolling hills of Cameron Highlands</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
We stayed at a very nice place called The Lakehouse, a boutique hotel with plenty of Colonial charm and history. Nestled against a bucolic green hillside near the town of Ringlet, this Tudor-style country inn was a special place to call home for a weekend. They even washed my car every day we were there... definitely a treatment you'd not get at a larger property. We ate fantastic food, had what I believe was the very best sweet corn on the cob I've ever had in Malaysia, made fresh strawberry jam, had a very proper English high tea in the Lakehouse's library (next to a mammoth woodburning fireplace), saw the tea plantations, browsed around in the nearby towns, and just thoroughly enjoyed a respite from the urban jungle of KL. It's curious that with all the travel that I did last year, one of the most memorable trips was the one just up the road.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4CxnbGABRi-aX5985PSOCfhg-RmrFPK5-c_VYHnxMKWLdxtR-DXDw4KIf_aOXamZ-H01xt2rAHrWH6qDqAXBPnOO1ILXm7XP_a6Sg1X2IZGphXie0_fYM8RA7m7X0tPVLyjRQEzHlVM6c/s1600/DSC_0493.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4CxnbGABRi-aX5985PSOCfhg-RmrFPK5-c_VYHnxMKWLdxtR-DXDw4KIf_aOXamZ-H01xt2rAHrWH6qDqAXBPnOO1ILXm7XP_a6Sg1X2IZGphXie0_fYM8RA7m7X0tPVLyjRQEzHlVM6c/s1600/DSC_0493.jpg" height="208" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A delicious salmon dish complemented by nothing but<br />
locally grown veggies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2jLaAUsdSb1ihaK9Wjx89tSrVnc8kcgmZZuj0tXM2DYQwoEikN4mqPvI1Ej-b1HArhkkq9ZqUorFo7DWa3K4edDHo2vuEYn5pdkIy-Ez7xVPQdM1frukX810K-_8RHq7OJP6gxwHQBKD/s1600/DSC_0505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2jLaAUsdSb1ihaK9Wjx89tSrVnc8kcgmZZuj0tXM2DYQwoEikN4mqPvI1Ej-b1HArhkkq9ZqUorFo7DWa3K4edDHo2vuEYn5pdkIy-Ez7xVPQdM1frukX810K-_8RHq7OJP6gxwHQBKD/s1600/DSC_0505.jpg" height="218" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the patio of The Lakehouse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhivmSQgC7-1qEDnfnnoh82Bx4nKdbbXN9BwlICfXshzwlXp36CRz7nkUr2723liqTvJW6w9qLW2_7e10hXdmMALQG5zAj8hvsPuQ3JdUlpIc1ART-_Z00uv_CvzfgDe00hR9XF0GVXknxc/s1600/DSC_0537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhivmSQgC7-1qEDnfnnoh82Bx4nKdbbXN9BwlICfXshzwlXp36CRz7nkUr2723liqTvJW6w9qLW2_7e10hXdmMALQG5zAj8hvsPuQ3JdUlpIc1ART-_Z00uv_CvzfgDe00hR9XF0GVXknxc/s1600/DSC_0537.jpg" height="191" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening's last light from the "front yard" of<br />
The Lakehouse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj45Y6FnjowEERGn1qgOBgFL5GV639J7MC_eSCtFSDBCdWWKt457ZZ8UzfhwQOhpsm3s-UlC_3gvwXQpZf5i3uiupA2AREE16AFqg3Oz0VHRpnmUUNEY142FLzaxLyOzliDM2QFYgSqQyeL/s1600/DSC_0553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj45Y6FnjowEERGn1qgOBgFL5GV639J7MC_eSCtFSDBCdWWKt457ZZ8UzfhwQOhpsm3s-UlC_3gvwXQpZf5i3uiupA2AREE16AFqg3Oz0VHRpnmUUNEY142FLzaxLyOzliDM2QFYgSqQyeL/s1600/DSC_0553.jpg" height="320" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Who doesn't love a freestanding,<br />
claw-footed, deep bathtub?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNL7K0u9C1xRNJAB7xWY0pbGPZ9BgrMYsQCTYyHzrTNYhwWh9WmCOQBBwYDY9ql9LGKNJGJPH2O50WlsbZrNgVF2D53O0_N0XsuXguyh6MgiO0l26YMTE6zFJWjXF4hgbmbhhMkjwNBiQW/s1600/DSC_0560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNL7K0u9C1xRNJAB7xWY0pbGPZ9BgrMYsQCTYyHzrTNYhwWh9WmCOQBBwYDY9ql9LGKNJGJPH2O50WlsbZrNgVF2D53O0_N0XsuXguyh6MgiO0l26YMTE6zFJWjXF4hgbmbhhMkjwNBiQW/s1600/DSC_0560.jpg" height="320" width="218" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Misty hills in the distance added to<br />
the wonderful ambiance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9c4r0hMrARviD3hyphenhyphenBe3ie_S2eMjZU6ycFREMt5IT3XnxBdzF5c8HtF4yoff5AEtCTGTcrbRZXI-A-v9nnS5mXaN1Bviexrf2OUT2Dd9PFSOJXTtDkoKI5CD5UStqs3dSm20FY0dPiBLdg/s1600/DSC_0561.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9c4r0hMrARviD3hyphenhyphenBe3ie_S2eMjZU6ycFREMt5IT3XnxBdzF5c8HtF4yoff5AEtCTGTcrbRZXI-A-v9nnS5mXaN1Bviexrf2OUT2Dd9PFSOJXTtDkoKI5CD5UStqs3dSm20FY0dPiBLdg/s1600/DSC_0561.jpg" height="320" width="244" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scones, sandwiches, cakes, and fresh fruit...<br />
a marvelous English high tea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMR8qCi-a1DxD-ybKZkXNpdoj6fyKtOeduEJfaKyoR-QGYueeEJoPP3AJE3HrJfB4g4EAjbADZbIqWLreqJp2SzSSZ9JGcQC_zoLLXwMW6mto0hz8PI5Z0G7WSeYB0BOudlf2V_DY72yhp/s1600/Tea_fields_(Will_Ellis).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMR8qCi-a1DxD-ybKZkXNpdoj6fyKtOeduEJfaKyoR-QGYueeEJoPP3AJE3HrJfB4g4EAjbADZbIqWLreqJp2SzSSZ9JGcQC_zoLLXwMW6mto0hz8PI5Z0G7WSeYB0BOudlf2V_DY72yhp/s1600/Tea_fields_(Will_Ellis).jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tea plants covering the hills like carpet (photo courtesy of Will Ellis)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Last year saw a handful of excursions up to Langkawi, definitely one of my favorite Malaysian getaways. It's just a short one-hour flight to this laid-back island up near the Thai border, and is probably among my most-frequented domestic holiday destinations.</div>
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<div>
One visit was just a media trip to Berjaya Langkawi Resort, but those are usually pretty enjoyable, even though they are unquestionably work-related. Since everything is sponsored, we are beholden to a fairly full itinerary, with the idea behind the trips being an introduction of the resort and/or destination to members of the media. So there's generally a full slate of meals, activities, press conference-type assemblies, etc. This one also featured a spa visit and a leisurely mangrove tour, so hey, nobody was complaining!</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqHp2HQr87UpIsuHWE8ISsZEMTiHtD4lvGne4k5kcsqGu8ULcC_Ntfqn5oxG5cVRJUGY32PNmQaWtTp9sAfDnaG9SZMXcfAYQcXX4ekR5ShCIOvTwTtSoVvpTuRXFEERtDFZtzct8l5hhh/s1600/DSC_9071e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqHp2HQr87UpIsuHWE8ISsZEMTiHtD4lvGne4k5kcsqGu8ULcC_Ntfqn5oxG5cVRJUGY32PNmQaWtTp9sAfDnaG9SZMXcfAYQcXX4ekR5ShCIOvTwTtSoVvpTuRXFEERtDFZtzct8l5hhh/s1600/DSC_9071e.jpg" height="210" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flying over Penang en route to Langkawi, the new 24-km (15 mi) Second<br />
Penang Bridge, set to officially open in February 2014, is clearly visible<br />
in the foreground, with the original bridge in the background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7H5LZkycBOmAIFCsF3YnJD1l11rlCHHmKXfUsSFaLPixsFvDfCw7RU-SdSUe2pJJYk91E9r3kYz6ax3Z1aDF69jqfvXMFIv8lNGE24RCPGTlPvA1Gr2CSQErNn221WTaML3SGtouOSNc8/s1600/DSC_9082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7H5LZkycBOmAIFCsF3YnJD1l11rlCHHmKXfUsSFaLPixsFvDfCw7RU-SdSUe2pJJYk91E9r3kYz6ax3Z1aDF69jqfvXMFIv8lNGE24RCPGTlPvA1Gr2CSQErNn221WTaML3SGtouOSNc8/s1600/DSC_9082.jpg" height="400" width="312" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A picture-perfect view from the lobby deck at Berjaya</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgScnwng8QS_0U9a4iejmAdyFP0GTBwjVU6HNSNRKFd5_UOsMpddoMS9PQPj5PIrSOU_1NmjPKe8G-d15IeeXDExM2M9EIYXM0hae68TTdI4uD-5OyeVBlMobTf26Qfd2G0Lud6QcMYUOuQ/s1600/DSC_9091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgScnwng8QS_0U9a4iejmAdyFP0GTBwjVU6HNSNRKFd5_UOsMpddoMS9PQPj5PIrSOU_1NmjPKe8G-d15IeeXDExM2M9EIYXM0hae68TTdI4uD-5OyeVBlMobTf26Qfd2G0Lud6QcMYUOuQ/s1600/DSC_9091.jpg" height="258" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The over-water chalets of Berjaya Langkawi Resort dot the shoreline</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAhjzoe6jfvEobNP8BS-NLFh5pu9FAlT4zLg_fz1LzB5jhmlBVS0sX8f0gn91ZhD0YJIJz3igkFy7hQrE_4NSjtBy_vFLtDXXu1tQcTaCbnqUqhIqn2MXRSxiIZdkUiYRTsdYRr0-rySq5/s1600/DSC_9172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAhjzoe6jfvEobNP8BS-NLFh5pu9FAlT4zLg_fz1LzB5jhmlBVS0sX8f0gn91ZhD0YJIJz3igkFy7hQrE_4NSjtBy_vFLtDXXu1tQcTaCbnqUqhIqn2MXRSxiIZdkUiYRTsdYRr0-rySq5/s1600/DSC_9172.jpg" height="237" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Langkawi's UNESCO Geoforest Park is a true treasure... the lazy boat rides<br />
along the mangrove forests are always enjoyable and educational</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitwpEsgMAKeoLc_uXDyNMGXikI53GGYa3HgCxUTBc1mjn8J6YSIxLSJ9cho1NYDMtW4b7va-oThSNnMSSXI6qJvkEDmSQoHyVz1qwzbjZSBk8C676RRaL1bKn1Rn64BZO2AoSlyi-4XnaB/s1600/DSC_9202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitwpEsgMAKeoLc_uXDyNMGXikI53GGYa3HgCxUTBc1mjn8J6YSIxLSJ9cho1NYDMtW4b7va-oThSNnMSSXI6qJvkEDmSQoHyVz1qwzbjZSBk8C676RRaL1bKn1Rn64BZO2AoSlyi-4XnaB/s1600/DSC_9202.jpg" height="191" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bringing in the boats under unsettled skies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzzsfcMH-rFpNs7IW3t7zs11I4ciwk-beye_myAg447OrWXcSP75QxJckJco0Pbi5eQ6eANfdvmBo9B9xylHgMpx6mNF4YFjrcfTa4tncxOMBZ4_E63zna3GJjI7JN6AJCPkiXefbamCGY/s1600/DSC_9206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzzsfcMH-rFpNs7IW3t7zs11I4ciwk-beye_myAg447OrWXcSP75QxJckJco0Pbi5eQ6eANfdvmBo9B9xylHgMpx6mNF4YFjrcfTa4tncxOMBZ4_E63zna3GJjI7JN6AJCPkiXefbamCGY/s1600/DSC_9206.jpg" height="220" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking northward, though, a more docile view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
I chose to go back home to Colorado in 2013 during my favorite time of year, which is autumn. September and October in the Rocky Mountains are just magical months. I went in late September and stayed for about two weeks, which of course just flew by. Some of my friends here in Malaysia often express surprise that I flew back home at that time rather than at Christmas. I simply show them some of the photos from the trip, and everything is made clear to them. Not only did we have postcard-perfect weather virtually the entire time I was there, I got two new lenses for my Nikon (one of which is a manual-focus 8mm fisheye lens) and had a blast breaking them in and trying them out. I always enjoy my trips home... visiting family and friends, seeing my parrot Shiloh, and soaking in all the beautiful Colorado scenery.</div>
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<div>
My mother and I had a number of attempts to visit the mountains thwarted because of devastating floods that had ripped through the northern foothills of the Front Range of Colorado just before my arrival. Plenty of roads, including some fairly major thoroughfares, were washed away, and most of the affected towns were still very much in full recovery mode, so not only could we not visit those areas, we couldn't even go through them. So on one particularly fruitless day, we had no fewer than three different routes end up as non-options for us. In the end, we grabbed some food in Longmont, a delightful small city north of Denver, and enjoyed the brilliant skies and sunny weather. A much more productive trip a day later took us southwest of Denver, where we marveled at the riot of color courtesy of the changing aspens. While Colorado doesn't have the extreme autumnal variety of reds and oranges that New England's stunning deciduous forests display, there's something special about the electric yellow of the aspens set against the deep green of the ponderosa and lodgepole pine forests, all under a brilliant deep blue Colorado sky. After snapping loads of photos of all this spectacular scenery, however, we came through Idaho Springs and were met by a monstrous, barely-moving traffic jam on Interstate 70 heading back to Denver. Accident, construction, we didn't know, but it didn't look promising, so we go on the highway going the opposite way and went over Guanella Pass and came the "back way" into Denver. It was a detour few would make, because it's a solid two-hour slog over a very high mountain pass and then down a winding highway into the foothills southwest of Denver. But it seemed to be a good choice, as the jam on I-70 was pretty epic, and in the end, we made it to one of my favorite Mexican cantinas in Denver, Jose O'Shea's, just in time to catch the last few minutes of happy hour, a frosty margarita (or two) and plates of hot tacos our well-earned reward for the grueling drive back to civilization.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4k1zND-SynkpZMaDbSrDtlsBbts8_DaskA8CcubSWvAoNksRac3gT0asRkacZeb57lM6b4E8vORV3vkoz2ehK5ofwq3NUq9-0ENCjXAgzqBrdFUvs-uEQuKjc-De0GHZ3j6ze7a7RR0wn/s1600/DSC_1247e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4k1zND-SynkpZMaDbSrDtlsBbts8_DaskA8CcubSWvAoNksRac3gT0asRkacZeb57lM6b4E8vORV3vkoz2ehK5ofwq3NUq9-0ENCjXAgzqBrdFUvs-uEQuKjc-De0GHZ3j6ze7a7RR0wn/s1600/DSC_1247e.jpg" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mom in the Jeep, courtesy of the new fisheye lens</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1YTA4PAlI5SeMvDZfp-cXoKocdXVGRlM_K78ONSBCrKzaifJhpOaQ6NdYl51ZPN7WZwUpHgNoSDXODdKXIkkzT-wtiJHFojQ7ILjQbLDrk5gmDkGGtE4HU20d3pyOXuQ_rPqjSikOAAdW/s1600/DSC_1251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1YTA4PAlI5SeMvDZfp-cXoKocdXVGRlM_K78ONSBCrKzaifJhpOaQ6NdYl51ZPN7WZwUpHgNoSDXODdKXIkkzT-wtiJHFojQ7ILjQbLDrk5gmDkGGtE4HU20d3pyOXuQ_rPqjSikOAAdW/s1600/DSC_1251.jpg" height="223" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boulder's ever-impressive Flatirons jutting up from the plains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQI444DEMxYag0oDEwqEkmw95YiMVDsk2wXluZn03T19kw70-IbYibxENn1ZRkZ9ato-HnJTcj_leT0n0VmafpzYR5eyo2ytggWevrnX3VhV2QN6S2nWWZYqDxZmdL3HneVN7qI8YiZrz2/s1600/DSC_1266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQI444DEMxYag0oDEwqEkmw95YiMVDsk2wXluZn03T19kw70-IbYibxENn1ZRkZ9ato-HnJTcj_leT0n0VmafpzYR5eyo2ytggWevrnX3VhV2QN6S2nWWZYqDxZmdL3HneVN7qI8YiZrz2/s1600/DSC_1266.jpg" height="226" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's my baby! Shiloh, my parrot, now around 16 years<br />
old, but she doesn't look a day over 10!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNkP1_lbZ-gIkbp3ej95hPA0JIhbUuPHjOBteP2ruck2_5MKW2hOE0XHakdf_n8eDDiCnbIrbsrWk8SwBGeTDQ1ZSdWzrr-pZfI8lxlnvRFZrTcoL6gRfp7ii_98JRxAZgJtOJ5NLFvgB1/s1600/DSC_1269.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNkP1_lbZ-gIkbp3ej95hPA0JIhbUuPHjOBteP2ruck2_5MKW2hOE0XHakdf_n8eDDiCnbIrbsrWk8SwBGeTDQ1ZSdWzrr-pZfI8lxlnvRFZrTcoL6gRfp7ii_98JRxAZgJtOJ5NLFvgB1/s1600/DSC_1269.jpg" height="210" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading up Guanella Pass with a dense palette of greens<br />
and yellows at every turn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAIRtJ4DaPI5YeEudOcYMyEMZvW6GKRHC2aPjgrlF7wl6aJJD7NXh-MivhJ49w936nuXKf1_OeX8m3nZG0xgyfzV6Lvjx8p_rtG66OagM_kpjK3Ng6GCTjAjx_9To4wq3ictQkKS7Yu791/s1600/DSC_1282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAIRtJ4DaPI5YeEudOcYMyEMZvW6GKRHC2aPjgrlF7wl6aJJD7NXh-MivhJ49w936nuXKf1_OeX8m3nZG0xgyfzV6Lvjx8p_rtG66OagM_kpjK3Ng6GCTjAjx_9To4wq3ictQkKS7Yu791/s1600/DSC_1282.jpg" height="236" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colorado's wide open spaces, shot with the 8mm lens</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj2_R08TIY1gLWJIjV5EUWPS5M7TOBlE2p-cyAwVUM4FC4jER01gBO2_59aNO0P-VCjvAh_9ZQ2cYTUKviXe-rWaDkGmZk0WFSgoCs8G3m1DUj-6_gFwPHQq9Abl0tfTXA5jGZqLt7yZpc/s1600/DSC_1285.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj2_R08TIY1gLWJIjV5EUWPS5M7TOBlE2p-cyAwVUM4FC4jER01gBO2_59aNO0P-VCjvAh_9ZQ2cYTUKviXe-rWaDkGmZk0WFSgoCs8G3m1DUj-6_gFwPHQq9Abl0tfTXA5jGZqLt7yZpc/s1600/DSC_1285.jpg" height="273" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A log home against a tree-covered hillside... quintessential Colorado</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOGyP7O4W2Iip0DRn7aCIygTrZ-h_xStZeelwwd2EQVN9rHCFhCHmyQfP29WU3xR_BAMvldpDy_wRc3kMb68XekSD_PW80ocf1Jmi1S0gCvAQufsFtJUUa3em_z7jB8Gl97Ox94EeXl1VK/s1600/DSC_1286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOGyP7O4W2Iip0DRn7aCIygTrZ-h_xStZeelwwd2EQVN9rHCFhCHmyQfP29WU3xR_BAMvldpDy_wRc3kMb68XekSD_PW80ocf1Jmi1S0gCvAQufsFtJUUa3em_z7jB8Gl97Ox94EeXl1VK/s1600/DSC_1286.jpg" height="345" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Colorado bluebird posing on a rustic fence suddenly makes<br />
me extra-happy to now have a 300mm lens</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZoLUd1y86PL9Ht-aBtkz-UsTkDwXdoZNDlHp17Hmp-r0vw2tN9YaEntJcxWompEysE8fxZ-Diu5v51klPKQGY_0pizSyNptn5Q8Lv03twxTXcaXObFSOeIG1f4YbeZl0yw3x88tImnkKF/s1600/DSC_1335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZoLUd1y86PL9Ht-aBtkz-UsTkDwXdoZNDlHp17Hmp-r0vw2tN9YaEntJcxWompEysE8fxZ-Diu5v51klPKQGY_0pizSyNptn5Q8Lv03twxTXcaXObFSOeIG1f4YbeZl0yw3x88tImnkKF/s1600/DSC_1335.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Talk about posing! This "camp robber" bird was just biding his time<br />
at our picnic site before swooping down for any bits of food he could nab</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgD5MSimnPgXYlMGhhkUVDftM_OYsiRvANzFSYxusn6FaldrOZ6hAQEW3_BWJm5mUptn61FbP2EFaAsavVfC4CV5G_5K3zzSH6W8iCslyM9Y_BeNZp3GEawEWbt4BIduLjRqdtwnlL8F2Y/s1600/DSC_1354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgD5MSimnPgXYlMGhhkUVDftM_OYsiRvANzFSYxusn6FaldrOZ6hAQEW3_BWJm5mUptn61FbP2EFaAsavVfC4CV5G_5K3zzSH6W8iCslyM9Y_BeNZp3GEawEWbt4BIduLjRqdtwnlL8F2Y/s1600/DSC_1354.jpg" height="280" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vast forests carpeted in pine and aspen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiouoEHWl3DJ5TNKsLUHcV_7VDWEeqdeRb_RyhRcgKnXnD2xoz7HmY4Xcnk8uvwxcNf1syFwNBXAtStN16kLP3WjsJ0hF5XgzL61k4s6tV3B0iXVlK6KUnCQWMGtST1gTojCtnmSrdnUjeQ/s1600/DSC_1365.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiouoEHWl3DJ5TNKsLUHcV_7VDWEeqdeRb_RyhRcgKnXnD2xoz7HmY4Xcnk8uvwxcNf1syFwNBXAtStN16kLP3WjsJ0hF5XgzL61k4s6tV3B0iXVlK6KUnCQWMGtST1gTojCtnmSrdnUjeQ/s1600/DSC_1365.jpg" height="342" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whether a painter, a cyclist, a hiker, a photographer, or whatever – people<br />
out in nature soaking up the wonder of Colorado is a common sight,<br />
and is part and parcel of the state's immense appeal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLFR81tz89OYfCsbvo02B4WfEr6bNawOYNofnRSd5SNZk7ynlgFSKhd4-UL540ofyLDKa5zmlUvU8iMxg64lk-FfGT1iW8OY3I7DnorRW_y8hKcE_2iVUBSJNWeyfiBrn-qp7PR7971FM4/s1600/DSC_1367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLFR81tz89OYfCsbvo02B4WfEr6bNawOYNofnRSd5SNZk7ynlgFSKhd4-UL540ofyLDKa5zmlUvU8iMxg64lk-FfGT1iW8OY3I7DnorRW_y8hKcE_2iVUBSJNWeyfiBrn-qp7PR7971FM4/s1600/DSC_1367.jpg" height="320" width="313" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sun-splashed aspens at their peak color burn with<br />
an orange-tinted yellow under a cloudless sky</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidHniQ8fVXWoZ1Wg0m9kpa5-gsq1oxmFdirFEVHiDqASpemOjpzOUY-IdSY2lWRjwt3VWVca-beUw4heHhQZ_0bHV-__Z56gVDbWElkPEiE3MVU9pfnIJZ2IqbmB_9XastyYWoNNKj7_UW/s1600/DSC_1406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidHniQ8fVXWoZ1Wg0m9kpa5-gsq1oxmFdirFEVHiDqASpemOjpzOUY-IdSY2lWRjwt3VWVca-beUw4heHhQZ_0bHV-__Z56gVDbWElkPEiE3MVU9pfnIJZ2IqbmB_9XastyYWoNNKj7_UW/s1600/DSC_1406.jpg" height="272" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For me, the defining photo of the trip, capturing everything that I love<br />
about autumn in the Colorado Rockies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdg3auMmdAAjo_m5QpRQMG1qaX0tpRQiZxqi0BYMl3_jsaPDcbTUrazgKHv_uFaDeOkCWzRjAT3ApibnjYDfp-YppDgR5DJnoZtuP_WHc4u-VHGAsSkr_71qmHHntQl3amEJo0huhPRlMY/s1600/DSC_1414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdg3auMmdAAjo_m5QpRQMG1qaX0tpRQiZxqi0BYMl3_jsaPDcbTUrazgKHv_uFaDeOkCWzRjAT3ApibnjYDfp-YppDgR5DJnoZtuP_WHc4u-VHGAsSkr_71qmHHntQl3amEJo0huhPRlMY/s1600/DSC_1414.jpg" height="281" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the summit of Guanella Pass, with 14,060-ft Mt. Bierstadt looming<br />
in the background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyVAgnYeRTnLklPgKvhYLiiKBZxryRL6PcV3bEn5oBG5ocC5dYaTLm31PiytQ_6XqXtgE_tXAAYDfX1JcW01VqcImouNxyDvg4Tcc_Rj-LP89Cf4B6f3nSnMS5PHdOWv-m0QNLA2A8iMHp/s1600/DSC_1423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyVAgnYeRTnLklPgKvhYLiiKBZxryRL6PcV3bEn5oBG5ocC5dYaTLm31PiytQ_6XqXtgE_tXAAYDfX1JcW01VqcImouNxyDvg4Tcc_Rj-LP89Cf4B6f3nSnMS5PHdOWv-m0QNLA2A8iMHp/s1600/DSC_1423.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Generously sized margaritas, chips & salsa, and spicy tacos<br />
at Jose O'Shea's... ample recompense indeed for our long<br />
and winding detour back home from the mountains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Wanting to cap off a wonderful year of travel with a near-total absence of panache and luxury, my friend Ryan and I booked a "backpacker-style" trip to Kathmandu, Nepal, leaving a couple of days after Christmas and staying through the New Year. After a spectacularly long slog to get through possibly the most woefully inefficient immigration queues in the world, we made our way to our guesthouse, a place called Dipankara Holiday Home. Now, this is not a fancy place, but a couple of issues notwithstanding, it was a really nice place to base ourselves for a few days. However, the first night did not forecast that in any way at all. We were in an upstairs room (US$12.50 per night) and had no heat, no hot water (lukewarm only with roof-mounted solar water heaters), and much of the time, no electricity. This is a common theme in Nepal, where only 40% of the country even has access to electricity at all, and even in Kathmandu, rolling power cuts are the order of business, particularly in the chilly winter months. The power cuts sort of follow a schedule, but it's not really one you can rely on. After the first night, we "upgraded" to a downstairs room which the proprietor cheerfully gave us for $20 per night, and this room had a gas-fired water heater (hot showers make a huge difference!) and a halogen space heater, which is only slightly better than nothing, in all honesty. If you're looking for an incredibly inefficient heater, this may be your best choice. Little more than an 800-watt halogen light bulb, this thing lit up the room like a small nova and merely radiated heat as long as the power was flowing to it. Had it been outfitted with a small fan to blow the heated air out into the room, it would have made it significantly better. However, it was certainly better than having nothing at all, and the room was really quite nice. Very clean, fresh quality linens, and once again: hot water. One fine morning around 3am, the power came back on and the heater sprang to life and I woke up shortly thereafter, thinking it was the morning sun blazing through the windows. Alas, however, it was just the super-bright halogen heater doing its thing.</div>
<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuDMk0inQbjnbrx5Djvp8btCjUVKoE37aSl21A_slK0_v99oL6L8eNAMpfi1PGIvebLjSETsfhu7injyfcXvEQ2yqyIVQwgZa_AgHHfrN-aZtl6INQuHqR_pdmdEcsmZ1b0L6_Ktkwmhk_/s1600/DSC_2171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuDMk0inQbjnbrx5Djvp8btCjUVKoE37aSl21A_slK0_v99oL6L8eNAMpfi1PGIvebLjSETsfhu7injyfcXvEQ2yqyIVQwgZa_AgHHfrN-aZtl6INQuHqR_pdmdEcsmZ1b0L6_Ktkwmhk_/s1600/DSC_2171.jpg" height="184" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Terraced fields atop the rugged mountains of Nepal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-NOFAXb6tfJX_P280q6hgwgEQdBnb4IyLXGWPOfzAdQeiPTVrLcujyVoJU5311W7CzQscxMWZwtpT_mYzLfE95d8YXnGkjhfJx4w612R2pSjNn8XHz2S-A3PRXN5qX2lVckZn7D7m4A9g/s1600/DSC_2176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-NOFAXb6tfJX_P280q6hgwgEQdBnb4IyLXGWPOfzAdQeiPTVrLcujyVoJU5311W7CzQscxMWZwtpT_mYzLfE95d8YXnGkjhfJx4w612R2pSjNn8XHz2S-A3PRXN5qX2lVckZn7D7m4A9g/s1600/DSC_2176.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I guess you'd call this "Suburban Kathmandu"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinfeA7z___wkuUQ5eu0bAlH6-XWHQk1FdQUzLqPyssjxNbJ-DJ_qENYahARs4YnQ0ig_3YluNsQWnhxAptbaQ2OWvjPoPMJEd4TcuGCfdUfpRiz6HAur94DR7_WLKf8nIcte7m4yhKPsWf/s1600/DSC_2207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinfeA7z___wkuUQ5eu0bAlH6-XWHQk1FdQUzLqPyssjxNbJ-DJ_qENYahARs4YnQ0ig_3YluNsQWnhxAptbaQ2OWvjPoPMJEd4TcuGCfdUfpRiz6HAur94DR7_WLKf8nIcte7m4yhKPsWf/s1600/DSC_2207.jpg" height="190" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ubiquitous <i>momo</i> – stuffed with various meats and<br />
spices, and prepared in a variety of ways (steamed,<br />
pan-seared, deep-fried), we couldn't get enough</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd9bPcV5WgenzdwZeu0UymjY7l9H7yrl6gESv_OcemNQqp5coWo5n6KIlRwodeta2lvaE6bkHAs1d0gG-XjGB6SmQtG7cPhEwxhhwr1eOzwBfJpyM-IyUpc30QaIEjRKijqBSKCVqmslp7/s1600/DSC_2208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd9bPcV5WgenzdwZeu0UymjY7l9H7yrl6gESv_OcemNQqp5coWo5n6KIlRwodeta2lvaE6bkHAs1d0gG-XjGB6SmQtG7cPhEwxhhwr1eOzwBfJpyM-IyUpc30QaIEjRKijqBSKCVqmslp7/s1600/DSC_2208.jpg" height="189" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The succulent contents of a buffalo-stuffed <i>momo</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwnp1xpcmry3DRS-thRGYXwasBM_GwVSG-vFoPIAZZDrJffoYgm4Yb__5w5L_Yy7HbGrZLNSHCvMz-t2YLdXziSGSeq4V2HM-Nok1HH7bOihjnnjrGRjOeLjujSe5xZdOIktUy0IdudA95/s1600/DSC_2210b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwnp1xpcmry3DRS-thRGYXwasBM_GwVSG-vFoPIAZZDrJffoYgm4Yb__5w5L_Yy7HbGrZLNSHCvMz-t2YLdXziSGSeq4V2HM-Nok1HH7bOihjnnjrGRjOeLjujSe5xZdOIktUy0IdudA95/s1600/DSC_2210b.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh noodles with plenty of veggies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDTKKNnx8GEcGfooJetEiUBkCRnPl57lH1_jTcCcivzOPYpcOqdVWxqSiywbKDKA_27fSz7YlW0XE7fklZZd54iP8y8l0JSknyLnzN8QuHEZPFKkurPrrbj1SsERL1fs-wHFNIoFdLEIZi/s1600/DSC_2225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDTKKNnx8GEcGfooJetEiUBkCRnPl57lH1_jTcCcivzOPYpcOqdVWxqSiywbKDKA_27fSz7YlW0XE7fklZZd54iP8y8l0JSknyLnzN8QuHEZPFKkurPrrbj1SsERL1fs-wHFNIoFdLEIZi/s1600/DSC_2225.jpg" height="400" width="318" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The charming Dipankara Holiday Home,<br />
our home away from home for five days</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtyO2upVf6m9MibhStDOsE_m1Mlf2iucSnk1PXIJgqCe_IbAA4QNjmqVk07EK__tlABGdLgA_ZBoHZrMf7FGxEkteILD4_DcgwrN1AjXIipmQlrhRU-JJEVizdER0YSqeBhLc3CD_egGXq/s1600/DSC_2225b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtyO2upVf6m9MibhStDOsE_m1Mlf2iucSnk1PXIJgqCe_IbAA4QNjmqVk07EK__tlABGdLgA_ZBoHZrMf7FGxEkteILD4_DcgwrN1AjXIipmQlrhRU-JJEVizdER0YSqeBhLc3CD_egGXq/s1600/DSC_2225b.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our bright and sunny downstairs room,<br />
clean and comfortable</td></tr>
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While we were there, there was scarcely a cloud in the sky. In fact, it hadn't rained in a few weeks prior to our visit, so everything seemed to be coated in a very fine layer of dust. It wasn't that problematic in the city, as you tend to expect such things, but on a half-day excursion to Nagarkot, the site of some of my best photos from last year's trip to Nepal, the dryness and dustiness rendered all the foliage, typically a lush palette of greens, a dull shade of mediocrity. Disappointing, but despite this – and apparently going at the wrong time of day (morning is best, as we were told after the fact) – I still managed to snap a couple of good photos of the supremely impressive peaks of the Himalayas... no captions required!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4eJCqoOwHHJHpEzWGiXsAx62F0W4Zw0e4szMBhwuuJpbRFVNrx5Hgcb3Sttwwrw-qyJgGAAjpeeyMaFjMtvPma52yKGayPs4eb7Q8j5r-y3cQmrPqjYrFvuD9Zbsrq41OHECF4Dbue-r7/s1600/DSC_2349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4eJCqoOwHHJHpEzWGiXsAx62F0W4Zw0e4szMBhwuuJpbRFVNrx5Hgcb3Sttwwrw-qyJgGAAjpeeyMaFjMtvPma52yKGayPs4eb7Q8j5r-y3cQmrPqjYrFvuD9Zbsrq41OHECF4Dbue-r7/s1600/DSC_2349.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIWd98n9k2Hqy4FQ2mZACFA73-RNOUtMOi5cxMcvTC8yrlrhHscWdw8hrevrmA7dmhGPQnKjryAmHJ9IHEOpcmg0zcvLEkYvmSlVsr2Ss3qHP9hmNONrAweoiW8zaNuT4uJHeO2DGvdBUB/s1600/DSC_2351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIWd98n9k2Hqy4FQ2mZACFA73-RNOUtMOi5cxMcvTC8yrlrhHscWdw8hrevrmA7dmhGPQnKjryAmHJ9IHEOpcmg0zcvLEkYvmSlVsr2Ss3qHP9hmNONrAweoiW8zaNuT4uJHeO2DGvdBUB/s1600/DSC_2351.jpg" height="187" width="320" /></a></div>
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Among the more memorable times on the trip were seeking out rooftop cafés and eateries. Always involving a fun climb up a few flights of precipitous steps, these rooftop venues were a consistent source of pleasure, offering tasty local food, surprisingly good coffee and tea (pots of hot milk coffee became a mainstay for us in the chilly December evenings), and a sense of escape from the bedlam of the city three to four stories below... truly, a good rooftop café in Kathmandu becomes an oasis in the city.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcw853r0wFNYWtmXluPAbLJBnBUa9EslziXEpP0jS4jAye9ON9Y6tJvwp08SH-VzrupBir2X6qcK7jgUilC4qMWfBLI-RmkXVSf7d4Ox35u9i9Wf-I9tCLoGf0kiWB2ZaQAYONwN-5hIt/s1600/DSC_2244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcw853r0wFNYWtmXluPAbLJBnBUa9EslziXEpP0jS4jAye9ON9Y6tJvwp08SH-VzrupBir2X6qcK7jgUilC4qMWfBLI-RmkXVSf7d4Ox35u9i9Wf-I9tCLoGf0kiWB2ZaQAYONwN-5hIt/s1600/DSC_2244.jpg" height="189" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A common scene in Kathmandu, taken from atop<br />
one of the several rooftop cafés we visited</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBHa6W9JRJGP7QkQ-TtMSE0qopVktZTln8vsy1Bl4U8loB8hGYIwTc6zlj2GdtxjIWEw9kbAs85RGEQQEQuoO2H4p4tGBH_IXuZeckPLztPrfL9hZQ_i1NADyidhYE9cAU6DngSriXqUQq/s1600/DSC_2254.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBHa6W9JRJGP7QkQ-TtMSE0qopVktZTln8vsy1Bl4U8loB8hGYIwTc6zlj2GdtxjIWEw9kbAs85RGEQQEQuoO2H4p4tGBH_IXuZeckPLztPrfL9hZQ_i1NADyidhYE9cAU6DngSriXqUQq/s1600/DSC_2254.jpg" height="248" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dustiness of a dry city can be seen in this ultra-wide angle view</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhunI5W2_aDR8crxfJARAel7gY4i5vaKLKA3kxbLb6K1vR_AQr7MmGymphwY7Fu3-v_zeskzMNk_OhAt7s1tlbyKZk3AXPtyBkcqlEvVf6WBj3eEyN0vpipJIcudEFcpbvjefiwpZ6BidfV/s1600/DSC_2257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhunI5W2_aDR8crxfJARAel7gY4i5vaKLKA3kxbLb6K1vR_AQr7MmGymphwY7Fu3-v_zeskzMNk_OhAt7s1tlbyKZk3AXPtyBkcqlEvVf6WBj3eEyN0vpipJIcudEFcpbvjefiwpZ6BidfV/s1600/DSC_2257.jpg" height="245" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ryan, squinting in the bright midday sun, at a great <br />
rooftop café we found near Patan Durbar Square</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTq1VVPxBt6JU9MTFNMHUKKGRaVB1Z2uGcqQPWkD3h7jLVyp__U-UiA3QhFlyv4PKsqEQh2T3ni6Kfl0AguTU3moPHsn0ulRT3c-VeqnUZnpux4qKQhE-Ue7NcnF1b8IQ_0TnFnV6CNx02/s1600/DSC_2267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTq1VVPxBt6JU9MTFNMHUKKGRaVB1Z2uGcqQPWkD3h7jLVyp__U-UiA3QhFlyv4PKsqEQh2T3ni6Kfl0AguTU3moPHsn0ulRT3c-VeqnUZnpux4qKQhE-Ue7NcnF1b8IQ_0TnFnV6CNx02/s1600/DSC_2267.jpg" height="257" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The snowcapped peaks of the Himalayas peering over the rooftops<br />
of Kathmandu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBdqQTE8D2l-j_w9ApHvRkzqbTh3fVQ6jipg5INYZq12ks14Ywq8uRIT9s32qfhaBri3SkXsranLZCuFXWtG7NKXwrvtHHCb82i3l7u_KxOkNQDW6s0nHQsKQSJV_2GVKgY3WShzA1OTiq/s1600/DSC_2275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBdqQTE8D2l-j_w9ApHvRkzqbTh3fVQ6jipg5INYZq12ks14Ywq8uRIT9s32qfhaBri3SkXsranLZCuFXWtG7NKXwrvtHHCb82i3l7u_KxOkNQDW6s0nHQsKQSJV_2GVKgY3WShzA1OTiq/s1600/DSC_2275.jpg" height="320" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A yummy hot caramel latté, the<br />
perfect drink on a chilly afternoon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div>
Another particularly memorable place for us was Boudhanath. Only a 10-minute walk from our guesthouse, this area is just special. A large circular promenade surrounding a behemoth Buddhist stupa, I liked Boudhanath on my last visit to Nepal and loved it on this one. Owing to its proximity, we spent time here every day, oftentimes enjoying the sunset over the Himalayas from our favorite rooftop eatery, a place we frequented throughout our time there.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ebBW422tlUSM6Y-2Nuqp6tN8SSF_mWy2eyUUaoc3vh55fdM8xHO16ICcCDuwjgzj6nM8bCez2iDROxLN_rgfNTT7b_4AZFN7xpaMsWSUWoQ7YYCQMtmKBbzRJCi-ovHg3szskRPFxAwm/s1600/DSC_2480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ebBW422tlUSM6Y-2Nuqp6tN8SSF_mWy2eyUUaoc3vh55fdM8xHO16ICcCDuwjgzj6nM8bCez2iDROxLN_rgfNTT7b_4AZFN7xpaMsWSUWoQ7YYCQMtmKBbzRJCi-ovHg3szskRPFxAwm/s1600/DSC_2480.jpg" height="220" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prayer flags adorning Boudhanath Stupa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBxFyk739_TLmPAgYqQFrPTPpaCgRlRDxN3BAvYN_2APOx0TPyjTDxKYn2vn9j18yQeJ6OvQNh-u3C-jIav4-dfFHLxB3km0qjbEkemcg-v4ZhF6rP363YHK7cKw71pqU0VO-UbJs3uwie/s1600/DSC_2308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBxFyk739_TLmPAgYqQFrPTPpaCgRlRDxN3BAvYN_2APOx0TPyjTDxKYn2vn9j18yQeJ6OvQNh-u3C-jIav4-dfFHLxB3km0qjbEkemcg-v4ZhF6rP363YHK7cKw71pqU0VO-UbJs3uwie/s1600/DSC_2308.jpg" height="268" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A massive Buddhist prayer bell backed by wildly colorful buildings<br />
at Boudhanath – one of my favorite pictures from the trip</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQRyn1a-jStKXmgL52kUG5y5SfasZa6AAYSIi6YyKN5oGUZMjhDNjSTOd9IkYAGD9SKRuMZo6HJB6MEZJ_qDC8J8F9tYBht_HNgiGD4Tm4GSBntIJMka4JuFEf84ysRbkn0PKcvK76YoA/s1600/DSC_2311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQRyn1a-jStKXmgL52kUG5y5SfasZa6AAYSIi6YyKN5oGUZMjhDNjSTOd9IkYAGD9SKRuMZo6HJB6MEZJ_qDC8J8F9tYBht_HNgiGD4Tm4GSBntIJMka4JuFEf84ysRbkn0PKcvK76YoA/s1600/DSC_2311.jpg" height="196" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our most-frequented eatery, the outstanding<br />
Himalayan Café: excellent food, pots of steaming hot<br />
milk coffee, friendly service, and free Wi-Fi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZRAMh7JLCvroGahn-sYgwAQhOcK2mbk6k3RwGhdjapccXSP1phQf2-DV7oO6TKm1fu1bW4WKiS7Ii7aZqYzrmWZSCp1_tBqxE2_Gw9oqcNROiNQalwRE52ID_QJBNi6C3nTezTVXw4CXd/s1600/DSC_2317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZRAMh7JLCvroGahn-sYgwAQhOcK2mbk6k3RwGhdjapccXSP1phQf2-DV7oO6TKm1fu1bW4WKiS7Ii7aZqYzrmWZSCp1_tBqxE2_Gw9oqcNROiNQalwRE52ID_QJBNi6C3nTezTVXw4CXd/s1600/DSC_2317.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prayer flags whipping in the afternoon wind</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSc7v5kMfwEGeV6qkdzzqQ5iXCAzch3gaURExdSYyc2N04trEjn-AKVSRf6N2RT50tst4gOwZkEThqETlmcfO4-h5576g8fg_qKYyXfYy5iOqRlC_vrp5AyKS0k7_lMf3IWlOynImh9Zoe/s1600/DSC_2322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSc7v5kMfwEGeV6qkdzzqQ5iXCAzch3gaURExdSYyc2N04trEjn-AKVSRf6N2RT50tst4gOwZkEThqETlmcfO4-h5576g8fg_qKYyXfYy5iOqRlC_vrp5AyKS0k7_lMf3IWlOynImh9Zoe/s1600/DSC_2322.jpg" height="253" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another favorite photo: So much going on here, including a monk on the<br />
veranda, just left of center, and a surly cat, perhaps wondering how to<br />
get one of those two dozen pigeons on the rooftop at lower right</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIEbrOEq7kBHwixU6KgQukvPG9hbNlnRGv1eJhsyaobHExqQUT52AA4xkS0BqStwJWVp-o5qW6LOM_YPW7MBdd00-Fq1DC8-6CfU4vrjINkL8PFC8xF6UQPcyEcXRY_hJcUAPQKph54jk4/s1600/DSC_2196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIEbrOEq7kBHwixU6KgQukvPG9hbNlnRGv1eJhsyaobHExqQUT52AA4xkS0BqStwJWVp-o5qW6LOM_YPW7MBdd00-Fq1DC8-6CfU4vrjINkL8PFC8xF6UQPcyEcXRY_hJcUAPQKph54jk4/s1600/DSC_2196.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bidding goodbye to the sun, as well as to its warmth... always a mixed<br />
bag of feelings with the beautiful sunsets during the trip.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div>
The best day of the trip, without a doubt, was December 31. We wandered out from Dipankara Holiday Home in the late morning and didn't find our way back until just before midnight. We spent the day wandering around Kathmandu Durbar Square (there are three "Durbar Squares" which collectively comprise the UNESCO Heritage Site; I've now been to all three), and then making our way to Old Freak Street, a great area of shops and funky cafés and pubs that hearkens back to the hippie backpacker days that really put it on the map. We settled in at a place called Firefly, ordered some giant bottles of beer (at 650mL, each was well more than a full pint) and some tasty bites, and just enjoyed the atmosphere. After that, we made our way (on foot) to Thamel, a touristy enclave just northwest of Kathmandu's rather ill-defined center. After shopping for scarves and singing bowls, we happened upon a wonderful pub/restaurant called Heritage Kitchen & Bar and took up residence there for the last few hours of 2013, enjoying the great live music and delicious food, and, as the evening wore on, the increasingly vibrant and celebratory ambiance. At exactly 9:45pm, which coincided with the stroke of midnight back in KL (Nepal is oddly 2 hrs and 15 min behind Malaysia), we raised our glasses and welcomed in 2014 for the first time – we even had some noisemakers and confetti bombs for the occasion! We kept warm with a tray of some sort of fuel bricks, and thank goodness we had that, because the temperatures at night often dropped down to a very chilly 0-3°C. Presently, we grabbed a taxi and made our way back to the guesthouse, where we arrived at about 11:45pm, just in time to crack open the bottle of champagne I had brought from home and ring in 2014 according to the Nepalese clock.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBojoNo0llugOzZV64zcR28MW8ymrdc3BfhO3u7zsl7fsF_N4kkvy86EjXu9JvQ51e-JxsL7IiHosrUjkx4bsAvT4uFVaSJEfUn-YdMwOwvOcNbNnk14gGp1JwmUAbmzCovEqZ4vZkdaqu/s1600/DSC_2228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBojoNo0llugOzZV64zcR28MW8ymrdc3BfhO3u7zsl7fsF_N4kkvy86EjXu9JvQ51e-JxsL7IiHosrUjkx4bsAvT4uFVaSJEfUn-YdMwOwvOcNbNnk14gGp1JwmUAbmzCovEqZ4vZkdaqu/s1600/DSC_2228.jpg" height="320" width="241" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the temples at Patan Durbar Square</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9nZUY2Qt4JUmupA9g-7P8lCFk2sYBzBMyM0my-o0q9KDHmBhAMjb0OSEGFGLAvSsxUKY6DszTgf2_nqB7lICYwuUG50pta2uqtmKiHCq7MWxzwpwh3H0lsGVvZxiITLluyyO0XCOIyUTs/s1600/DSC_2229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9nZUY2Qt4JUmupA9g-7P8lCFk2sYBzBMyM0my-o0q9KDHmBhAMjb0OSEGFGLAvSsxUKY6DszTgf2_nqB7lICYwuUG50pta2uqtmKiHCq7MWxzwpwh3H0lsGVvZxiITLluyyO0XCOIyUTs/s1600/DSC_2229.jpg" height="206" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bold examples of 16th-century craftsmanship at<br />
Kathmandu Durbar Square</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimSUuqQTC22Pbwf56Uf0lVd0QqkOKQ7G-KLdbNmjF3ALLD-azhW1it_jmaJqM4hhioDwZdcSUTBC3rqUFKQD8Ngx4Qz4pguX_CsaigLIjn4pFTtmzfyNTIynw44sbx8UE5UIWmILCLunrx/s1600/DSC_2231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimSUuqQTC22Pbwf56Uf0lVd0QqkOKQ7G-KLdbNmjF3ALLD-azhW1it_jmaJqM4hhioDwZdcSUTBC3rqUFKQD8Ngx4Qz4pguX_CsaigLIjn4pFTtmzfyNTIynw44sbx8UE5UIWmILCLunrx/s1600/DSC_2231.jpg" height="320" width="166" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cerulean window shutters<br />
provide a visual treat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiidRY2z9Q470JeFNRQcPRQdD_5Web61WnuBNnxGBKdBYCeHawafQLd9tvMUO7l0E7GffiefJAVJxBTpx5tuZz9TqiTnHwlomAiH_vz5X-oxqR1qoG4-fwblc18uNUlSOo63VQA2XE9E5d2/s1600/DSC_2285.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiidRY2z9Q470JeFNRQcPRQdD_5Web61WnuBNnxGBKdBYCeHawafQLd9tvMUO7l0E7GffiefJAVJxBTpx5tuZz9TqiTnHwlomAiH_vz5X-oxqR1qoG4-fwblc18uNUlSOo63VQA2XE9E5d2/s1600/DSC_2285.jpg" height="208" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kathmandu is a pretty large city, so scenes like this<br />
were not at all uncommon</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLsXl4EdeKjTSAdxQUd1r1Lyjz8zo17huesahQWnoKtO6MLCUZ_9AU1lkTMbCjdmktL4jzj7d4VKbbpXzKnDSH826vy9Y0J_JSBWWpNyLqnMobrAiOE2FIR1_6CXtpzRHbn0f7Rndd4zS/s1600/DSC_2290.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLsXl4EdeKjTSAdxQUd1r1Lyjz8zo17huesahQWnoKtO6MLCUZ_9AU1lkTMbCjdmktL4jzj7d4VKbbpXzKnDSH826vy9Y0J_JSBWWpNyLqnMobrAiOE2FIR1_6CXtpzRHbn0f7Rndd4zS/s1600/DSC_2290.jpg" height="205" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And neither were scenes like this... vendors selling all<br />
manner of foods and various goods lined the streets<br />
throughout the city, trying to keep warm between sales</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ydxP88cDseG-mpBd9Oe1FaKd3TgTVBhz7ablu2nfl4W97KEum_rmL0qHD-y15WNyLrSNcTxyHSLUW0qCHy8cqg_X3HurArKoMJNYQCkHYcVJXmW7Wf8ioobfllj1BtA_uRdP1_SZAxOP/s1600/DSC_2297.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ydxP88cDseG-mpBd9Oe1FaKd3TgTVBhz7ablu2nfl4W97KEum_rmL0qHD-y15WNyLrSNcTxyHSLUW0qCHy8cqg_X3HurArKoMJNYQCkHYcVJXmW7Wf8ioobfllj1BtA_uRdP1_SZAxOP/s1600/DSC_2297.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kathmandu Durbar Square temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVbqBGwDzJIa-RBRG0b5WpgKOh6N3ZyIi25_Mt1x-0at2iKU3Paazsqs7WZTjNui3iiqG4j-XqVq26yG9eIaUlH1PLhK0c7HC6bm5SKDMu4uoMgNS-ntbfyqVr2IIkzhTZ2YYGOO0G87RX/s1600/DSC_2387.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVbqBGwDzJIa-RBRG0b5WpgKOh6N3ZyIi25_Mt1x-0at2iKU3Paazsqs7WZTjNui3iiqG4j-XqVq26yG9eIaUlH1PLhK0c7HC6bm5SKDMu4uoMgNS-ntbfyqVr2IIkzhTZ2YYGOO0G87RX/s1600/DSC_2387.jpg" height="217" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An ornate 100-year-old building, stunning against the<br />
cloudless blue sky, stands in stark contrast to the<br />
considerably older buildings nearby</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtQ9SbEroNnEqZZWQGSw_ZNeL4yrOnay3IwXHMqw3y4EOk-Hm6HjqiOTnBVWNeslsSd_tF83fTkZtZxs4pkztFb-XGcWUHhjZHsa5Q_cAYifVguFZ9E7JhFqMqyzRPCYFIP62VTCB9PuuF/s1600/DSC_2405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtQ9SbEroNnEqZZWQGSw_ZNeL4yrOnay3IwXHMqw3y4EOk-Hm6HjqiOTnBVWNeslsSd_tF83fTkZtZxs4pkztFb-XGcWUHhjZHsa5Q_cAYifVguFZ9E7JhFqMqyzRPCYFIP62VTCB9PuuF/s1600/DSC_2405.jpg" height="193" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sign says it all! A great place to hang out</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicY6m_Pu3BcruF0Zn0lLrGx4AroBtjbDAd_ILrer9MUYoeGV2PqmW7iYHSbGhVD9O8OZjAvExxmq3Nd4djD_Ejtb_57bGJgXlMslhNfksw3GeX_RNrmxAhNKXJPZnzVZqqQp4BKTQQscTZ/s1600/DSC_2401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicY6m_Pu3BcruF0Zn0lLrGx4AroBtjbDAd_ILrer9MUYoeGV2PqmW7iYHSbGhVD9O8OZjAvExxmq3Nd4djD_Ejtb_57bGJgXlMslhNfksw3GeX_RNrmxAhNKXJPZnzVZqqQp4BKTQQscTZ/s1600/DSC_2401.jpg" height="186" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A wide-angle view from the window by our table...<br />
note the masks at left</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXsiw88-9QdDYvmq0ifuUfgTIzJxj-6LVOH6eNaxHX8B8d89ifKZAnvKlRXOyA6s5tMz3vbyIVwEibqNDE7y4ulKy51SH21E8dUT3b6rHEPuXGH3r5gGg9LeSqhZzZ_QziRD4KjFVx1-Mg/s1600/DSC_2410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXsiw88-9QdDYvmq0ifuUfgTIzJxj-6LVOH6eNaxHX8B8d89ifKZAnvKlRXOyA6s5tMz3vbyIVwEibqNDE7y4ulKy51SH21E8dUT3b6rHEPuXGH3r5gGg9LeSqhZzZ_QziRD4KjFVx1-Mg/s1600/DSC_2410.jpg" height="320" width="198" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Did not expect to see this in Nepal!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLXbuNNrOq3RgHE6L2t9bWAZo0xZEC3AyjPFWUIIyFtq_OMHlysV0DYmzzyyQdtyI1Z7wdrpWYvERW_G8s1yVY7nfBypRGuvpBM3TrYFzkS0Otv9uhvyXRck6lv6yhTPzTnchSvRqACclh/s1600/DSC_2415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLXbuNNrOq3RgHE6L2t9bWAZo0xZEC3AyjPFWUIIyFtq_OMHlysV0DYmzzyyQdtyI1Z7wdrpWYvERW_G8s1yVY7nfBypRGuvpBM3TrYFzkS0Otv9uhvyXRck6lv6yhTPzTnchSvRqACclh/s1600/DSC_2415.jpg" height="270" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Transport in central Kathmandu: by foot, by trishaw, by motorbike</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVf2aZS3U5X4YffikkR3BNfbk80X0PMGo4_PI9IEN2CrShLXRrG4sBNKNfbClKBTjOiczPfNDlFXxVETWRvH1rduzQni7tUpyPOW8lrEHhR8v8ol_o63_lZVCNEmzuLn5XroFGfb3rDtX5/s1600/DSC_2419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVf2aZS3U5X4YffikkR3BNfbk80X0PMGo4_PI9IEN2CrShLXRrG4sBNKNfbClKBTjOiczPfNDlFXxVETWRvH1rduzQni7tUpyPOW8lrEHhR8v8ol_o63_lZVCNEmzuLn5XroFGfb3rDtX5/s1600/DSC_2419.jpg" height="174" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prayer candles at a tiny street-corner "temple stall"<br />
around sunset on New Year's Eve</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhURfmYOpjCYteuLetXXI2FioRXJdIYCpXPZehy8mixGLC36Nonnv4W8N1fsdeoW31qTwV_N89cVAk5RcQJVIweT2de10xKP4NKneJvdslu18venx4k2mezQuozqKc5D3ccugUAtb1VNa3O/s1600/DSC_2421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhURfmYOpjCYteuLetXXI2FioRXJdIYCpXPZehy8mixGLC36Nonnv4W8N1fsdeoW31qTwV_N89cVAk5RcQJVIweT2de10xKP4NKneJvdslu18venx4k2mezQuozqKc5D3ccugUAtb1VNa3O/s1600/DSC_2421.jpg" height="248" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love this photo! Check out this absolute mass of humanity, all trying<br />
to get their day's business attended to in the final hour of daylight</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtuc6JDEVX5MgAHQmsIsZ97MAY19_Gfmr1QCMlNf62BTJw4ZBoPamLCpu-vMiy7uCgLjJHlgp2lIMGlXudAmTtOaYYdrLdC43n1BrZ7J3W_P_E-Z83WkNGJxRxRw_4kpvLrw8tPZQZLGdK/s1600/DSC_2426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtuc6JDEVX5MgAHQmsIsZ97MAY19_Gfmr1QCMlNf62BTJw4ZBoPamLCpu-vMiy7uCgLjJHlgp2lIMGlXudAmTtOaYYdrLdC43n1BrZ7J3W_P_E-Z83WkNGJxRxRw_4kpvLrw8tPZQZLGdK/s1600/DSC_2426.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nepal's unique flag, the only<br />
non-quadrilateral national flag in the world</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYlV427wy2c3jbo5rLNsAE5jupP1KwXMP-uQpvbFznXlInGdn89XF_myEx01e-kH62YJzQZ666MeJ9fgJFaOeSC_9pah-TBj7TGhJiC95nJs1c-higZ0gAJwLaHjY7FxS5VduGEys2X8Kq/s1600/DSC_2430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYlV427wy2c3jbo5rLNsAE5jupP1KwXMP-uQpvbFznXlInGdn89XF_myEx01e-kH62YJzQZ666MeJ9fgJFaOeSC_9pah-TBj7TGhJiC95nJs1c-higZ0gAJwLaHjY7FxS5VduGEys2X8Kq/s1600/DSC_2430.jpg" height="320" width="235" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A vast collection of handmade singing bowls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVlIbXfVBs_VHFrGVd9SIXcXY9bgXNIOdq0UUPCYh98fhAhFaijWdhp09rXcckihxBXv8IqOvem2GQxQB7huvSAP1xFLZVkHOAOEH8mdagWj3AYqgq0vM2xapmM1sBf3ao9mB_EjpjM7um/s1600/DSC_2437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVlIbXfVBs_VHFrGVd9SIXcXY9bgXNIOdq0UUPCYh98fhAhFaijWdhp09rXcckihxBXv8IqOvem2GQxQB7huvSAP1xFLZVkHOAOEH8mdagWj3AYqgq0vM2xapmM1sBf3ao9mB_EjpjM7um/s1600/DSC_2437.jpg" height="272" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We saw this inviting place from a rooftop café we were at across the<br />
street, and knew this was the place to spend our New Year's Eve!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-5IfGjhQ9JaLj1ZN4pTZ2TS9dZVC6atNwbyc18WWp3BbYh5Zj-xxrMbRkk_QKJ2pP-QETw47IxM6ISqckJ8fu5uCekuGC652sSqfadHU5-dLzI7ruvUhE4wiQLCTt3mVIrnUoc4nIPUST/s1600/DSC_2443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-5IfGjhQ9JaLj1ZN4pTZ2TS9dZVC6atNwbyc18WWp3BbYh5Zj-xxrMbRkk_QKJ2pP-QETw47IxM6ISqckJ8fu5uCekuGC652sSqfadHU5-dLzI7ruvUhE4wiQLCTt3mVIrnUoc4nIPUST/s1600/DSC_2443.jpg" height="194" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking into the courtyard from the restaurant area</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgc8YC_OGN2qTxbwv6TZfUq4CKG7s7VzpaXgb14ky9_negZ7JG2zcl5AMprpyXGNnhOueoQC8L0FhgljhJ-Cr4QlhVfo7KX2bcE-jAEBSO84tSyl2fwD4cwY0DYLfNl8a7oFtf-M2F0587/s1600/DSC_2453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgc8YC_OGN2qTxbwv6TZfUq4CKG7s7VzpaXgb14ky9_negZ7JG2zcl5AMprpyXGNnhOueoQC8L0FhgljhJ-Cr4QlhVfo7KX2bcE-jAEBSO84tSyl2fwD4cwY0DYLfNl8a7oFtf-M2F0587/s1600/DSC_2453.jpg" height="320" width="209" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A complimentary basket of fine<br />
chocolates to go with our Everest<br />
beer? Why certainly!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuR3X_6SswhpnGR4HWSjiKDIJ9HHYrtjSFvKRH5uOedq_vIVhYXThT6EtTVTD4RNiL262yCWxj9JFf_LAncDzvGQhNpqVjhbDuHrCMX-lHloN1qN3MQvctM3z_4YzqsygMqoGADvPFtodZ/s1600/DSC_2458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuR3X_6SswhpnGR4HWSjiKDIJ9HHYrtjSFvKRH5uOedq_vIVhYXThT6EtTVTD4RNiL262yCWxj9JFf_LAncDzvGQhNpqVjhbDuHrCMX-lHloN1qN3MQvctM3z_4YzqsygMqoGADvPFtodZ/s1600/DSC_2458.jpg" height="251" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tables filled up as the night progressed... note the live band at left</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgci6x-QiBMyQ0J3O3axR00s8yrh0gaZymhYsggEAXkb_uhUlf9oYvcFbGnJNbXhj01rd4Im9YRKFGt95DMndLEB_079PFx2pOgCzvpuPR8cWM4jcUxH6qXHkD7P6Gc6I52ccJmaZwdppM2/s1600/DSC_2470.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgci6x-QiBMyQ0J3O3axR00s8yrh0gaZymhYsggEAXkb_uhUlf9oYvcFbGnJNbXhj01rd4Im9YRKFGt95DMndLEB_079PFx2pOgCzvpuPR8cWM4jcUxH6qXHkD7P6Gc6I52ccJmaZwdppM2/s1600/DSC_2470.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And this is what kept us warm!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The next day was our last, so we made one last visit to Boudhanath, ate some lunch, bought our last-minute souvenirs, and with that, headed for the airport, where we boarded a widebody A330 with, I kid you not, some 350 Nepalese workers (for whom many this was clearly their first time flying), and winged our way back to KL. We figured that, the flight attendants notwithstanding, there were maybe only 5-10 women on that entire plane. Quite the experience, and a brilliant end to a very interesting and largely enjoyable 2013!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikUK_lSnCekPGUTOmZV7IDF8RxvoWHw6VLvpDRlxwjWhR76DBcs3dMhJBOw2TfiqQb45fgBJdhPdxCboEGjHbD-a_EtRMLHFVaG2mXPywa6HaNyjbmRNL_l50ncL25wQeEr2lPWxG63YvM/s1600/DSC_2363.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikUK_lSnCekPGUTOmZV7IDF8RxvoWHw6VLvpDRlxwjWhR76DBcs3dMhJBOw2TfiqQb45fgBJdhPdxCboEGjHbD-a_EtRMLHFVaG2mXPywa6HaNyjbmRNL_l50ncL25wQeEr2lPWxG63YvM/s1600/DSC_2363.jpg" height="252" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Farewell Himalayas, farewell 2013</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
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<div>
<br /></div>
Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-40468449702070184882014-01-11T10:50:00.001-07:002014-08-03T23:17:14.000-06:002013, part one: A Year of Travel, Fun, and Fatigue!As usual, it's been far too long since my last post. I suppose that's partly to be expected, as my life here in Malaysia has – after five years – moved from something novel and fresh to something a bit more mundane and normal. That's not a bad thing, mind you, just the way it goes. So while I may have been amused and fascinated by the experience of going to Tesco when I was still a KL newbie, now it's little more than a routine chore, and certainly nothing worthy of a blog entry. The relative normalcy of a daily life like this doesn't lend itself well to blog posting, so I find it easy to overlook.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWfCHK5IWt5JLxmU7qqj_jUc6YrC7EtFUaj5osH7zGv8TcKofjMiA5Ph29PRn5ZGN1c0oTG0QdTazW4YqEnZU7KVKZ-FVNQWcPKCV1sjvH_e8A7tRXY2CCpU2GAEyGNxv_vHbUW8uAc_9/s1600/HK+Skyline+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWfCHK5IWt5JLxmU7qqj_jUc6YrC7EtFUaj5osH7zGv8TcKofjMiA5Ph29PRn5ZGN1c0oTG0QdTazW4YqEnZU7KVKZ-FVNQWcPKCV1sjvH_e8A7tRXY2CCpU2GAEyGNxv_vHbUW8uAc_9/s1600/HK+Skyline+2.jpg" height="157" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ever-stunning Hong Kong skyscraper pantheon, seen from Victoria Hill.<br />
My visit here is recapped at the end of this entry.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
However, I have been traveling a fair bit since my last post. We are now fresh into 2014, and I thought I'd do a little retrospective catch-up to cover 2013, which featured my first trip to Vietnam, another visit to Bali, my first time back to Hong Kong since 2008, trips to Koh Samui, Phuket, and Bangkok up in Thailand, a handful of excursions to Malaysian destinations, a wonderful autumn visit back home to Colorado, and a return to Nepal to close out the year. Probably a couple of other things in there, but I can't remember it all.<br />
<br />
Strap yourself in and enjoy... be sure to click on the photos to enlarge them. This is a long entry that covers a lot of ground!<br />
<br />
I've long wanted to visit Vietnam, and in February of 2013, during Chinese New Year, took the opportunity to go to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) with one of my friends from Singapore. The visa for Americans to go to Vietnam is jaw-droppingly expensive: I paid RM280 for a single-entry visa, which at the time was about US$90. The Lunar New Year is celebrated perhaps every bit as much in Vietnam as in China, so it was an interesting time to visit. Most of the shops and restaurants closed down for a week's time a day or two after we arrived, in observance of the holiday, but enough stayed open to keep us entertained, and the festivals and mood of the city, plus the picture-perfect weather we enjoyed, was ample recompense for the many closed businesses. Saigon was an extraordinary city, a place in which I could easily see myself taking up residence. Numerous vestiges of French colonialism still endure, public parks and tree-lined roadways and boulevards are ample, and the people were friendly and open. And of course, the food was amazing, a particular favorite being the <i>bánh mì thịt nướng</i>, a scrumptious hybridized French-Vietnamese sandwich, essentially grilled meats (oven-roasted seasoned pork belly was the best choice), spices, local herbs, and chili peppers on a fresh baguette roll. Served at innumerable carts and streetside stalls throughout Saigon, this was an absolute treat every time.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeYNPNbNwlrX0L8y7kTu2995Un82azWpV9guQZVoi6J04omnk6OKImKvMT2qad6ghedZ_QfXQrFkVrRbjWnG26AQosizwbfYnOiCrf8LBcR_g0I2MJ7p3w8nRWFUXrlYzltJ7S-4U75AOt/s1600/B%C3%A1nh_m%C3%AC_th%E1%BB%8Bt_n%C6%B0%E1%BB%9Bng.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeYNPNbNwlrX0L8y7kTu2995Un82azWpV9guQZVoi6J04omnk6OKImKvMT2qad6ghedZ_QfXQrFkVrRbjWnG26AQosizwbfYnOiCrf8LBcR_g0I2MJ7p3w8nRWFUXrlYzltJ7S-4U75AOt/s1600/B%C3%A1nh_m%C3%AC_th%E1%BB%8Bt_n%C6%B0%E1%BB%9Bng.jpg" height="302" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yum! Spicy and flavorful<i> bánh mì thịt nướng</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj96Ol7jItriTGVIxp_fY4E-ZxfJPi-aifCq0F5ko6ZrubZYbIpfhJjMJMXoOv4FpBVcjnmwiyEvAQVergyl-DKHSS8_7BOPr453h7pz4MMWxGyLQWU0iSxD0fbjEMjomZ9W9KiSBem3KLd/s1600/DSC_8219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj96Ol7jItriTGVIxp_fY4E-ZxfJPi-aifCq0F5ko6ZrubZYbIpfhJjMJMXoOv4FpBVcjnmwiyEvAQVergyl-DKHSS8_7BOPr453h7pz4MMWxGyLQWU0iSxD0fbjEMjomZ9W9KiSBem3KLd/s1600/DSC_8219.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Communism and capitalism in<br />
one harmonious frame</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUmv80LNeuDfNVXuphvt-hAwtLx23nolz7aYeQz3u2GvVX5-Rpk3oyo7xMKFKYBhMol5Ki2v-uyIoiMF8s7CsKCSK-nyFBK64fDO6Li66CIGRkNdSpdQg1nMZ9ObbvkY6qQiZ3HOVoeqlc/s1600/DSC_8221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUmv80LNeuDfNVXuphvt-hAwtLx23nolz7aYeQz3u2GvVX5-Rpk3oyo7xMKFKYBhMol5Ki2v-uyIoiMF8s7CsKCSK-nyFBK64fDO6Li66CIGRkNdSpdQg1nMZ9ObbvkY6qQiZ3HOVoeqlc/s1600/DSC_8221.jpg" height="264" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saigon's historic and impressive post office</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyJRpmeuYi2_2rx_P0cJkE8emcVlj0DppZHlLFVyzK8ozxVbOIIhblZZXGLnRqJKwfFwvLBAdNMvGdwAyhXWwHr3YSDkPU3Sq4EKusdThzVU3rpOs-fEhxIGEiIa5pkHcwYjAK1X2lKJvR/s1600/DSC_8228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyJRpmeuYi2_2rx_P0cJkE8emcVlj0DppZHlLFVyzK8ozxVbOIIhblZZXGLnRqJKwfFwvLBAdNMvGdwAyhXWwHr3YSDkPU3Sq4EKusdThzVU3rpOs-fEhxIGEiIa5pkHcwYjAK1X2lKJvR/s1600/DSC_8228.jpg" height="320" width="209" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Notre Dame Basilica of Saigon,<br />
built between 1863 and 1880</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Bhth6CmajSZOxbURr2aNBgcyhO5qx5Elt3J69YYOwvptSAudB-p8aJM9qv7DxPZqIbdj2XfAW57qM2jh_Kdtp38lTdXwcDYdD9LrhzvKOAyxOw7zI8mfFm6AJK25GQ-6SxcttQdJ_61W/s1600/DSC_8234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Bhth6CmajSZOxbURr2aNBgcyhO5qx5Elt3J69YYOwvptSAudB-p8aJM9qv7DxPZqIbdj2XfAW57qM2jh_Kdtp38lTdXwcDYdD9LrhzvKOAyxOw7zI8mfFm6AJK25GQ-6SxcttQdJ_61W/s1600/DSC_8234.jpg" height="320" width="183" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trishaw and street scene from<br />
near the city center</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxF6AIyl1pjVUOBgiPI8YHHCqfxzsGpSpo8LZU2kPzSod6BNIIEMe4chqQ4fkXPiKxseEZPZBxEMpY2-Zo0AjS0rSxtY0aT-paI-worKzYU0V-8GTmlQq5bSG5A964e06M9aJhcb-uRAd1/s1600/DSC_8238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxF6AIyl1pjVUOBgiPI8YHHCqfxzsGpSpo8LZU2kPzSod6BNIIEMe4chqQ4fkXPiKxseEZPZBxEMpY2-Zo0AjS0rSxtY0aT-paI-worKzYU0V-8GTmlQq5bSG5A964e06M9aJhcb-uRAd1/s1600/DSC_8238.jpg" height="231" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street food: Always a good choice anywhere in SE Asia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0dlo8kikvevMjE4nIyeVOjUFmbmtHOSAs18tzxVL8NoJHnCD5jWXZIkVp_Si6TsqWYZnVl3ehrYbyPCRvXxjSEzqlkD0OLPN3HH86l2k4f0pNmOhLaGQNNEOtsNfq8x-R5HnyaO2X2C75/s1600/DSC_8243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0dlo8kikvevMjE4nIyeVOjUFmbmtHOSAs18tzxVL8NoJHnCD5jWXZIkVp_Si6TsqWYZnVl3ehrYbyPCRvXxjSEzqlkD0OLPN3HH86l2k4f0pNmOhLaGQNNEOtsNfq8x-R5HnyaO2X2C75/s1600/DSC_8243.jpg" height="320" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Tree-lined, sun-dappled streets like this<br />
one lent a genuine appeal to Saigon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBFdi-A5-fF1J3PYXVpTXO-wEQ8TS8cJKABTq8R2zE37QSvNfQ2-o2t-dlsypUXLt3d2ZJo81h1DsxWjo4_tDVGv6WiSJzm9jh5YyWs-ktSepcK5_Tydg7cdpnems9p9lsfpAw5La6KQJa/s1600/DSC_8300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBFdi-A5-fF1J3PYXVpTXO-wEQ8TS8cJKABTq8R2zE37QSvNfQ2-o2t-dlsypUXLt3d2ZJo81h1DsxWjo4_tDVGv6WiSJzm9jh5YyWs-ktSepcK5_Tydg7cdpnems9p9lsfpAw5La6KQJa/s1600/DSC_8300.jpg" height="187" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our hotel room at the Intercontinental Saigon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaBHfIbavVNkW4YqdobDTaJnFmEw3N9HLWrtx-pGW-WURC7joXZdf71QzcVnBdNtj5H4CamEhtbfWInvOH1skSOlC3KBArcxzMmZCdkR7IBGB9w9v6T1PPR6-Gd8-HgU8wJ8xUfE5XTqxk/s1600/DSC_8322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaBHfIbavVNkW4YqdobDTaJnFmEw3N9HLWrtx-pGW-WURC7joXZdf71QzcVnBdNtj5H4CamEhtbfWInvOH1skSOlC3KBArcxzMmZCdkR7IBGB9w9v6T1PPR6-Gd8-HgU8wJ8xUfE5XTqxk/s1600/DSC_8322.jpg" height="320" width="210" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Built in 1897, the Saigon Opera House,<br />
foreground, is an example of the<br />
French colonial architecture that<br />
remains present in Saigon today</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbI-8-c4TYl0XrujpV1_Dhwtd_aBzU1EjwMSJf1G_NQaD7wc_Eja0LNm5j5YmqrA9tiRfHpa17a-ki7gO-N4nbBQCu41UxXx2bdG_XNIxiDLgeotlEGlXy0fuQHnSbjHwK36VyhpA-sO7m/s1600/DSC_8325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbI-8-c4TYl0XrujpV1_Dhwtd_aBzU1EjwMSJf1G_NQaD7wc_Eja0LNm5j5YmqrA9tiRfHpa17a-ki7gO-N4nbBQCu41UxXx2bdG_XNIxiDLgeotlEGlXy0fuQHnSbjHwK36VyhpA-sO7m/s1600/DSC_8325.jpg" height="220" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So many motorbikes!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ0JDGllxBGtB8RxUou6YY5Il_X4slx7ggW_zv1NUkS1ZAhk37GmAf-YCpe6dHYbNK2uhoHNxPTNypYxmaCXC68cchYEXlmD9xd4rJe170ZjMaZpCeQfYA2ZrUjXBl9ei4GMwzzOZgE1SH/s1600/DSC_8385.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ0JDGllxBGtB8RxUou6YY5Il_X4slx7ggW_zv1NUkS1ZAhk37GmAf-YCpe6dHYbNK2uhoHNxPTNypYxmaCXC68cchYEXlmD9xd4rJe170ZjMaZpCeQfYA2ZrUjXBl9ei4GMwzzOZgE1SH/s1600/DSC_8385.jpg" height="400" width="278" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Though not open to the public, the Saigon City Hall<br />
building, constructed from 1902-1908,<br />
nevertheless presents a gorgeous façade</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We spent the better part of an afternoon one day morosely meandering through the War Remnants Museum, certainly a more tourist-friendly appellation than its original name, roughly translated as "The House for Displaying War Crimes of American Imperialism and the Puppet Government of South Vietnam." In 1990, it was changed to "Exhibition House for Crimes of War and Aggression," and finally, in 1995, simply the "War Remnants Museum." I didn't take many pictures here, as it was a sobering and harsh look at the atrocities of war. Though perhaps not as vitriolically anti-American as it once was, the displays and propaganda in the museum remain largely one-sided, of course, focusing rather disproportionately on the Americans' appalling actions (napalm, Agent Orange, and the My Lai Massacre all get plenty of representation), while downplaying much of the equally horrific actions of the Viet Cong. The war in Vietnam was a miserable chapter in the world's history book, an indelible stain on the United States, a legacy of lingering tragedy in Vietnam, and but a part of the widespread horrors of that period throughout much of Southeast Asia. The War Remnants Museum is well worth visiting, but I can't say it was a cheerful experience, nor should it have been.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5gYsJfnm5FXQaTNPft7LbJjR1BojxKEydEjS9-KLszeRIU2xnCN4PGHoFByMRuUiQTLqxFNieS0GdnexXD3fg2hrK7yGwPYrRf0T6G-GZIosEEfuc6L6Y5otOHOxmW2bkTsJyInI66Fy4/s1600/DSC_8255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5gYsJfnm5FXQaTNPft7LbJjR1BojxKEydEjS9-KLszeRIU2xnCN4PGHoFByMRuUiQTLqxFNieS0GdnexXD3fg2hrK7yGwPYrRf0T6G-GZIosEEfuc6L6Y5otOHOxmW2bkTsJyInI66Fy4/s1600/DSC_8255.jpg" height="223" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Cessna aircraft converted for wartime use</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXbCMnpBgjMHSzpGtLMhWx7ZPv_YFdxnsTM6x-M6NFsr5_gHq76heZKq3gdMMv9eIfSYy6JFPq2AGA9rpyzyHxM6EV_BSZpGhlYWqotCcT2HhE9KXRpTM_sEMoS1-LlsGvO-PLugHtevU1/s1600/DSC_8274.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXbCMnpBgjMHSzpGtLMhWx7ZPv_YFdxnsTM6x-M6NFsr5_gHq76heZKq3gdMMv9eIfSYy6JFPq2AGA9rpyzyHxM6EV_BSZpGhlYWqotCcT2HhE9KXRpTM_sEMoS1-LlsGvO-PLugHtevU1/s1600/DSC_8274.jpg" height="183" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A captured American F-5 fighter jet on display</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZBaF3ckZdmtrRhjIBGGrLThvejSO3CDH26ehz9YreNJitYnDA1U59UIEUgh3CCTs0SplGv0LytbWIcus98j-RbScN9_K-09zo5v4wed7_0z5JQ_gu3UytgAI3Y-pRYvQg-RkgSyTuJrOf/s1600/DSC_8275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZBaF3ckZdmtrRhjIBGGrLThvejSO3CDH26ehz9YreNJitYnDA1U59UIEUgh3CCTs0SplGv0LytbWIcus98j-RbScN9_K-09zo5v4wed7_0z5JQ_gu3UytgAI3Y-pRYvQg-RkgSyTuJrOf/s1600/DSC_8275.jpg" height="221" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A particularly poignant display near the museum's exit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
On a more pleasant note, the Vietnamese New Year celebration of <i>Tết Nguyên Đánwas</i> was in full swing while we were there, so we got to see performances, dances, a massive street-long flower display that defied belief, loads of fireworks, and more. It was a great visit, and Saigon made a very favorable impression on me. Were it not for the outrageous visa cost, I could see myself returning to Vietnam again and again. Sadly, the fee just makes it a somewhat prohibitive destination when so many other alluring places are in the region.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjDl9rlJjC8Au_ek9w4pD10uedQgW_ZM-QDxswqO7P9vkytplSbb-mWAw78O2U5nnsLJPw4NW55Isv8mhI9JOmvEyKvzs3QnR4PrRe8YfZzrdE-ITef0tQXP0Vvg3iEtH06gNgOx0BtpX8/s1600/DSC_8289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjDl9rlJjC8Au_ek9w4pD10uedQgW_ZM-QDxswqO7P9vkytplSbb-mWAw78O2U5nnsLJPw4NW55Isv8mhI9JOmvEyKvzs3QnR4PrRe8YfZzrdE-ITef0tQXP0Vvg3iEtH06gNgOx0BtpX8/s1600/DSC_8289.jpg" height="256" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drummers practicing for the <i>Tết </i>Lion Dance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNxkqeH7HoSAUPgU0KStVIWQTNZusq0dalcTH-ntBjaex92ij0RX4l66YiExmwdol3zrQ5gHAKODjhRfe6SZDJTSkB7_d5XgG7j2FRXgpffnWN3Lsvk3sPFH2fWYTzTjTe0CM8CNubR0Dq/s1600/DSC_8311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNxkqeH7HoSAUPgU0KStVIWQTNZusq0dalcTH-ntBjaex92ij0RX4l66YiExmwdol3zrQ5gHAKODjhRfe6SZDJTSkB7_d5XgG7j2FRXgpffnWN3Lsvk3sPFH2fWYTzTjTe0CM8CNubR0Dq/s1600/DSC_8311.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vibrant Vietnamese dragonfruits<br />
on display</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWq6bAep2nqmz-y6BhVBfEu7baR5-6wL8uhY__s0vRASRmcdLAIGeukSsSa55tKSmKUuIY_-fKW0acU910V_tVbb18-W9LibvRgyvYq0RmXhl7GOfFsWITY1dFmlpwTtHKnh5bT1II2oXE/s1600/DSC_8328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWq6bAep2nqmz-y6BhVBfEu7baR5-6wL8uhY__s0vRASRmcdLAIGeukSsSa55tKSmKUuIY_-fKW0acU910V_tVbb18-W9LibvRgyvYq0RmXhl7GOfFsWITY1dFmlpwTtHKnh5bT1II2oXE/s1600/DSC_8328.jpg" height="320" width="207" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of many festive <i>Tết </i>displays<br />
around the city</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw-BAcRCOT5D-VAcZqAmH9oe7rfXLACyq7_da5nOz-vT8Ras1U7CySOQ5G_nJZackCsBwYYDpU_dZjLc0MAGQ8xJsrO_BCzX6le2p_GoM-SQIITMyokQAKGbpCGy1CsdzMUApUb5TxKLyE/s1600/DSC_8331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw-BAcRCOT5D-VAcZqAmH9oe7rfXLACyq7_da5nOz-vT8Ras1U7CySOQ5G_nJZackCsBwYYDpU_dZjLc0MAGQ8xJsrO_BCzX6le2p_GoM-SQIITMyokQAKGbpCGy1CsdzMUApUb5TxKLyE/s1600/DSC_8331.jpg" height="320" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crowds of people near the Ngyuen Hue<br />
Flower Street entrance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbDy1b_wdFbzMs5YvVw_4L2OlFidAtc6iKputbDvrdsjqKkEGtyJKcg-VR563fTDWvpO78jyriIXpfHXWWK26l20xidA5n11MuF95AtKWTqboy5gexvyHj6zn9CbNKcPv47bgNmcflBPwV/s1600/DSC_8352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbDy1b_wdFbzMs5YvVw_4L2OlFidAtc6iKputbDvrdsjqKkEGtyJKcg-VR563fTDWvpO78jyriIXpfHXWWK26l20xidA5n11MuF95AtKWTqboy5gexvyHj6zn9CbNKcPv47bgNmcflBPwV/s1600/DSC_8352.jpg" height="320" width="234" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Launched in 2004, the Ngyuen Hue<br />
Flower Street display has quickly become<br />
a favorite part of the Lunar New Year<br />
celebration in Saigon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNnZco6xGDVdMSv-Fa4T7zl7-m4ghglkM1BngJDz18pws-eWUHVVrsn2QYKNK4H6S6kyb8gfN7UC7EayzheKy67UXHf4uKbSr_GUC5d640vQmFo5Atb2q4fOLIp5K31WUtHeDTyqeYl1yE/s1600/DSC_8358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNnZco6xGDVdMSv-Fa4T7zl7-m4ghglkM1BngJDz18pws-eWUHVVrsn2QYKNK4H6S6kyb8gfN7UC7EayzheKy67UXHf4uKbSr_GUC5d640vQmFo5Atb2q4fOLIp5K31WUtHeDTyqeYl1yE/s1600/DSC_8358.jpg" height="320" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nearly 100,000 pots of colorful flowers<br />
are put on display for a week leading up<br />
to the big holiday</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5iPKCSlSNLBkoTf3cIP60kpmM7T4xJNtOTb-OK0ObYfF7rD9QK5u3Cn_MB61Gq4dfmA362DjJXlyKikX4fzEonK03PcPq-5bI08PFMPwfQnaRvFBEmqwBBsYdpv-0GK5P_KF3z_k0OwRJ/s1600/DSC_8365.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5iPKCSlSNLBkoTf3cIP60kpmM7T4xJNtOTb-OK0ObYfF7rD9QK5u3Cn_MB61Gq4dfmA362DjJXlyKikX4fzEonK03PcPq-5bI08PFMPwfQnaRvFBEmqwBBsYdpv-0GK5P_KF3z_k0OwRJ/s1600/DSC_8365.jpg" height="204" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A most enjoyable trip to Saigon was capped off by a<br />
visit to the amazing Ngyuen Hue Flower Street</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
My third trip to the Thai island of Phuket took place early in 2013, and as ever, it was an enjoyable trip, filled with plenty of sun, sea, and great food. Went with a friend, did some snorkeling, traveled to some of the smaller islands, and generally had a most relaxing tropical holiday. One standout memory was a hair-raising, frankly terrifying mini-van ride to the airport as we were leaving. There were, I think, four or five of us on the little bus, and the driver was careening down the highways and side streets like a <i>complete </i>lunatic and how we got to the Phuket airport without crashing or killing anyone is a mystery. Passengers routinely exchanged nervous glances, and it was on the tip of several our tongues at various times to tell the guy to pull over, or at least to slow down. It was, to be blunt, the most frightening airport transfer I've ever endured.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHkCB3noMNx9QM2q5LxIHsbq8BKgMNS8qb-RjvkhjEaiMTY0sT4d_cFdLAOfsQ30hgxieqMWZ4-9rwtStb7qv-Kg6xkhXd5xDRO-Z1TUHhtBC3IoFbD8Zka3J5NgIOvNJ823-ASfu0DuAV/s1600/CIMG4560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHkCB3noMNx9QM2q5LxIHsbq8BKgMNS8qb-RjvkhjEaiMTY0sT4d_cFdLAOfsQ30hgxieqMWZ4-9rwtStb7qv-Kg6xkhXd5xDRO-Z1TUHhtBC3IoFbD8Zka3J5NgIOvNJ823-ASfu0DuAV/s1600/CIMG4560.jpg" height="400" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Late afternoon at Patong Beach, Phuket</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbmY1GvbTV4YnOu0l9W9kXj5Xh0TLxlmReCOXXQWaqjuDWn7VTfgE3vcdY7M5pyNpC40yyvhE6F4FBgG2KxykTE6X5ZO437cIjN1vbNcacKcLLYNe8YOVOI4n5gK9t6RonSwIwk8kC8JQj/s1600/DSC_8974.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbmY1GvbTV4YnOu0l9W9kXj5Xh0TLxlmReCOXXQWaqjuDWn7VTfgE3vcdY7M5pyNpC40yyvhE6F4FBgG2KxykTE6X5ZO437cIjN1vbNcacKcLLYNe8YOVOI4n5gK9t6RonSwIwk8kC8JQj/s1600/DSC_8974.jpg" height="201" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The peaceful Siam Bay on Racha Yai, or Raya Island, near Phuket</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Phuket as a getaway wasn't all that unusual, really. One thing about living in this part of the world... you have the opportunity to spend a lot of time on islands. Not all are postcard-tropical and exotic, of course, and many don't come immediately to mind when we think of islands. But Singapore, Penang, Taiwan, Japan, Hong Kong, anything on Sumatra or Borneo (which are so incredibly vast, they feel nothing like islands when you're on them) – these are all islands.<br />
<br />
During one part of the year, I had a flurry of travel – all within just a few weeks – that took me to a spate of islands in the region. In order, I visited Koh Samui and Phuket (in Thailand), Langkawi (Malaysia), and Bali (Indonesia). None of these trips marked my first visit to any of these islands, but they were all really enjoyable sojourns, so still worthy of a recap.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo11j6f0lWDTe6RyYk3TZCkc7Ej8jozJih1jtL7XwsjEPUnL9KuZhBlYT_80q3Co8EU89Ip3Yj18jL0sRbicq8mAdc9OZ7wre43ocsrsVgoDzWTaKq4T6qwlP7XQfBP0ZEcXc3U7tM4mVn/s1600/Map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo11j6f0lWDTe6RyYk3TZCkc7Ej8jozJih1jtL7XwsjEPUnL9KuZhBlYT_80q3Co8EU89Ip3Yj18jL0sRbicq8mAdc9OZ7wre43ocsrsVgoDzWTaKq4T6qwlP7XQfBP0ZEcXc3U7tM4mVn/s1600/Map.jpg" height="320" width="276" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Map showing the relative location of<br />
Phuket and Koh Samui</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The trip to Koh Samui was my second to this popular Thai island. Located in the Gulf of Thailand on the other side of the peninsula from Phuket and almost directly south of Bangkok (see the map), Samui is incredibly popular, but at least for now, still retains some of the charm that swaths of Phuket have lost to rampant commercialization.<br />
<br />
We stayed at the posh Le Meridien resort in Samui on the east coast near the sumptuous Banyan Tree resort. This is a pretty good area, though the beaches are nothing special here. There are, however, loads of things for visitors to do in the area. I really like this island; it's got a great vibe and doesn't suffer when compared to the more well-known Phuket. A special treat this time – something I hadn't seen before – was a visit to the Secret Buddha Garden, a forested sanctuary hidden away in the hills of the island's interior, accessible by a winding 4WD road. The gardens are a creation of an old Samui fruit farmer, Khun Nim Thongsuk, who in 1976 (when he was 77) began erecting several statues and temples on the land here, which belonged to his family. The statues depict a number of animals, deities, and humans, including one of Khun Nim himself, sitting on a rock. Khun Nim continued to work developing his garden until his death at the age of 91. It was a cool and peaceful place, well worth a visit as a half-day alternative to Koh Samui's excellent beaches, and a great place to do some reflecting of your own.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Q0gceGyAnRT7UMoiZ4mCGbHdLVWNVs4K2GXk9923zxwptKNm8pll76TWnqpdoTL17kIo5iz2Gqg5iEZGq1VVl8UDMAgahRml9gk9jK-21t0KF0XfTPeZmL7n8rHaEC3LNj7OEOvUVPyg/s1600/DSC_8643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Q0gceGyAnRT7UMoiZ4mCGbHdLVWNVs4K2GXk9923zxwptKNm8pll76TWnqpdoTL17kIo5iz2Gqg5iEZGq1VVl8UDMAgahRml9gk9jK-21t0KF0XfTPeZmL7n8rHaEC3LNj7OEOvUVPyg/s1600/DSC_8643.jpg" height="224" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Koh Samui's airport is small, efficient, and very<br />
friendly. You feel as if you're on vacation from the<br />
moment you arrive!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWAaD8fLrMEv-T5GARSI-iBbyUTTCKy8Mh266-drAIgyR1-vTylTMZx5enCrtTot8C7FAsVBWuE2W57GlLDt0kz4v-43TMl7mLVxaApE69KR73sqJAIZPTf_q8Ser2ATr1ZpnfYehuKAyu/s1600/DSC_8664.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWAaD8fLrMEv-T5GARSI-iBbyUTTCKy8Mh266-drAIgyR1-vTylTMZx5enCrtTot8C7FAsVBWuE2W57GlLDt0kz4v-43TMl7mLVxaApE69KR73sqJAIZPTf_q8Ser2ATr1ZpnfYehuKAyu/s1600/DSC_8664.jpg" height="264" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The roofline of the Guan Yu Koh Samui Shrine,<br />
with contrasting coconut palms in the background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqpd21kS7OHH6cJ5NKy_F-cuwXXTjkSHhu6k1yp-_LMgoAu1-e1GzfF6rreQiqw7RDd8nQUdn1XVLfWNnzdzkihMVvYtYOp1QFX4rO8VkAh00F1BYqto8KIzP6OuQwiumb6_oOoRnjlCAJ/s1600/DSC_8669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqpd21kS7OHH6cJ5NKy_F-cuwXXTjkSHhu6k1yp-_LMgoAu1-e1GzfF6rreQiqw7RDd8nQUdn1XVLfWNnzdzkihMVvYtYOp1QFX4rO8VkAh00F1BYqto8KIzP6OuQwiumb6_oOoRnjlCAJ/s1600/DSC_8669.jpg" height="320" width="205" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wildly colorful bougainvilla and<br />
swaying palm trees... I must<br />
be in the tropics!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhusRq3Q0qV1b-TkcW05EAPKgIPVQE6pMVpQSjtxrCyoVbtadkbeAthGpzX0XqQ1IUBo-Zl1Pgjd5yIsQClOh-B05WI9HxczCIELDtSeweuqhyvvdd-lXZGW9z-JdYE6ywZ2h10Euc_YEFE/s1600/DSC_8683.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhusRq3Q0qV1b-TkcW05EAPKgIPVQE6pMVpQSjtxrCyoVbtadkbeAthGpzX0XqQ1IUBo-Zl1Pgjd5yIsQClOh-B05WI9HxczCIELDtSeweuqhyvvdd-lXZGW9z-JdYE6ywZ2h10Euc_YEFE/s1600/DSC_8683.jpg" height="320" width="216" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of numerous Buddhist temples<br />
on the island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiigXRreEKZrbTx99FhyQAHrgJdMi3Y5vEoeMScXwnxEImNlVLn65U2NguAx2dTrDR6aix3dguAVne9MpFca8oSyP7qfQ_U9IjDdLhqY0cAWMDnYGMEMIcheQuYGtDgRJb45guWSHb0ds_0/s1600/DSC_8685.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiigXRreEKZrbTx99FhyQAHrgJdMi3Y5vEoeMScXwnxEImNlVLn65U2NguAx2dTrDR6aix3dguAVne9MpFca8oSyP7qfQ_U9IjDdLhqY0cAWMDnYGMEMIcheQuYGtDgRJb45guWSHb0ds_0/s1600/DSC_8685.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strolling in the Secret Buddha Garden, there was<br />
a palpable sense of serenity and spirituality</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkUqRB63FGDwZbfF30Sunw5H6BGIpp22tnG7FDNkgfJCdtH78Bd7VfqWafs_yjt0WTZVEGvjaDnVkOJq_uubnQGt2_W8GA87P-xJktd6u2-5XWNW-WbgRcjIWRQTsp_QywOTRYiQYtrI8X/s1600/DSC_8686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkUqRB63FGDwZbfF30Sunw5H6BGIpp22tnG7FDNkgfJCdtH78Bd7VfqWafs_yjt0WTZVEGvjaDnVkOJq_uubnQGt2_W8GA87P-xJktd6u2-5XWNW-WbgRcjIWRQTsp_QywOTRYiQYtrI8X/s1600/DSC_8686.jpg" height="320" width="302" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A small holding pond and waterfall at the<br />
Secret Buddha Garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVpMgSxmunwDIbVZfdDjLi6UFjuatvvkgoYFBKsLAR-zJo9sc-tOT937gau6C6JyWdruD7zyXocn67FNvDkChsz3n9WTb4ONN4vmIO7t2KZuY2wJkKsZ6fOdordgoARcU55_AiSB_ZzNgb/s1600/DSC_8687.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVpMgSxmunwDIbVZfdDjLi6UFjuatvvkgoYFBKsLAR-zJo9sc-tOT937gau6C6JyWdruD7zyXocn67FNvDkChsz3n9WTb4ONN4vmIO7t2KZuY2wJkKsZ6fOdordgoARcU55_AiSB_ZzNgb/s1600/DSC_8687.jpg" height="320" width="268" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A host of dancing statues, forever frozen<br />
in mid-performance, Secret Buddha Garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwccTE5GrXz6fYCO736SV-Np9fSkKCmaptzvlszA_DgyYm_-bryRSFeDibrh0m78qF0QfJ5I63g6kl9vcwbKS4gehHR67TJliWu2qQ2FNzlFlcPXPiUZlI7B41rFY-Tc6YRGGz0rnpD-Qk/s1600/DSC_8689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwccTE5GrXz6fYCO736SV-Np9fSkKCmaptzvlszA_DgyYm_-bryRSFeDibrh0m78qF0QfJ5I63g6kl9vcwbKS4gehHR67TJliWu2qQ2FNzlFlcPXPiUZlI7B41rFY-Tc6YRGGz0rnpD-Qk/s1600/DSC_8689.jpg" height="250" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My favorite photo from the Garden, depicting a large bird </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit_pBUJpYErxfpFC5XJyhRRb5M-Dxk8UhSCIJbuT438mElkBPZim8xiTMqhbqnJYwPZhrxXqN1Xm7-xBDxmIq2OtCBFDdDzECPvmtfcJoNjRhv9dV8Z5F01n_f-PVfWhj3VQuaiSG6Q1pR/s1600/DSC_8692.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit_pBUJpYErxfpFC5XJyhRRb5M-Dxk8UhSCIJbuT438mElkBPZim8xiTMqhbqnJYwPZhrxXqN1Xm7-xBDxmIq2OtCBFDdDzECPvmtfcJoNjRhv9dV8Z5F01n_f-PVfWhj3VQuaiSG6Q1pR/s1600/DSC_8692.jpg" height="320" width="226" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the human statues at the Garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkZO7fHDr6DonzzUJLiOFhoj0rM9APeSsX-mvRj35sKxSbXOZxx_m3pmDP7HFkqQ83xqVrmOIThbrkr0j2UYpQBWKKXgdAS9n55KxVDLBOqaoDsFqVxIi849cJhAe9lG4PFA07Rj8LuI-X/s1600/DSC_8705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkZO7fHDr6DonzzUJLiOFhoj0rM9APeSsX-mvRj35sKxSbXOZxx_m3pmDP7HFkqQ83xqVrmOIThbrkr0j2UYpQBWKKXgdAS9n55KxVDLBOqaoDsFqVxIi849cJhAe9lG4PFA07Rj8LuI-X/s1600/DSC_8705.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Preparing to eat lunch seaside</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4B_wFM7wLsmrEaEOt3o2bbdMTki840W1210umcB6wQ5WD92mfKWLHrIsTydg6tShyphenhyphenFG84jc4pKRQNRAlvNRtIU1483i9318StPD25NqKbC6VVByd9EmIwZb0E3MfndCarFQn28wu08lhF/s1600/DSC_8771.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4B_wFM7wLsmrEaEOt3o2bbdMTki840W1210umcB6wQ5WD92mfKWLHrIsTydg6tShyphenhyphenFG84jc4pKRQNRAlvNRtIU1483i9318StPD25NqKbC6VVByd9EmIwZb0E3MfndCarFQn28wu08lhF/s1600/DSC_8771.jpg" height="320" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view from the villa of the preparations<br />
for our dinner on Le Meridien's pier</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipa1wiJr_m1ZciPW6b-_Y3_6txwpdGXcgg14NFe2cKfXCKpxhmj4JCcoLytwwSQBLvc935QDH-i2KnoSwoW_O9vkgmbvsNaG3EttCZJlsKpFDyOW3Olw4kqTsAaa4kwFZ67oWWYLP8G6NU/s1600/DSC_8773.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipa1wiJr_m1ZciPW6b-_Y3_6txwpdGXcgg14NFe2cKfXCKpxhmj4JCcoLytwwSQBLvc935QDH-i2KnoSwoW_O9vkgmbvsNaG3EttCZJlsKpFDyOW3Olw4kqTsAaa4kwFZ67oWWYLP8G6NU/s1600/DSC_8773.jpg" height="320" width="253" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The entrance to the lovely private pool villa<br />
at Le Meridien</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEick0pqF76X0iuit4ehIMTHCvC9hP0vkmGJz4IUtM_lE-LZvvIT7a5QpNNnXk2LrvKV8tVtDoyCrCLqxZXPuT9Bb6mdazXkljl27eQqkY74PF3DawWDv4zPbv2JGnuPY8_in7jZhOCAOxEW/s1600/DSC_8776.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEick0pqF76X0iuit4ehIMTHCvC9hP0vkmGJz4IUtM_lE-LZvvIT7a5QpNNnXk2LrvKV8tVtDoyCrCLqxZXPuT9Bb6mdazXkljl27eQqkY74PF3DawWDv4zPbv2JGnuPY8_in7jZhOCAOxEW/s1600/DSC_8776.jpg" height="320" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking across the pool to the living room<br />
pavilion at the villa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwferMFWyJcq9H0Rq0NdH5kDG6Cv5WvVTLHO91dr6Hw-MD4LPp4R85Hmii_8FkR8fiI_klUraTMyCwwqcTWTMMNTtjP0doSB5RyGNThqAvlMrJ_f-TI0p4PU2Y4raESCdlzJgPI6hzNVtL/s1600/DSC_8777n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwferMFWyJcq9H0Rq0NdH5kDG6Cv5WvVTLHO91dr6Hw-MD4LPp4R85Hmii_8FkR8fiI_klUraTMyCwwqcTWTMMNTtjP0doSB5RyGNThqAvlMrJ_f-TI0p4PU2Y4raESCdlzJgPI6hzNVtL/s1600/DSC_8777n.jpg" height="320" width="219" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pretty inviting looking bed, isn't it?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK-66B_4DIfVvy6A-dP8n5hMbCuWVJRjLjXEDlsku_qwAt-i_LF4aYgh6417YhPAvBd2Cj_HeUtc0pl8-lEeVSwMcSRmXvToQJ2HuZ9KLYLxlioah_moXSA6ktYhFLEOLuWWvOhjxe1Oy8/s1600/DSC_8779.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK-66B_4DIfVvy6A-dP8n5hMbCuWVJRjLjXEDlsku_qwAt-i_LF4aYgh6417YhPAvBd2Cj_HeUtc0pl8-lEeVSwMcSRmXvToQJ2HuZ9KLYLxlioah_moXSA6ktYhFLEOLuWWvOhjxe1Oy8/s1600/DSC_8779.jpg" height="228" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le Meridien's amazing floating pier, stretching 735 ft<br />
(224m) from Lamai Beach, and the setting for our<br />
gourmet dinner on the final evening</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS9l0TTZAkx8qmG8cG5TdjTIMjz00c2RUqArzynLewzGzL-LXFgetgiXDW4FAaZpseQy0hnnUj-KBXQL8D3PV3XV8wV0TZXIw0P2zt3P_Mwl2RmrqEhPyJ9J61nOxTgyRh3tHaNhHjqXrw/s1600/DSC_8781.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS9l0TTZAkx8qmG8cG5TdjTIMjz00c2RUqArzynLewzGzL-LXFgetgiXDW4FAaZpseQy0hnnUj-KBXQL8D3PV3XV8wV0TZXIw0P2zt3P_Mwl2RmrqEhPyJ9J61nOxTgyRh3tHaNhHjqXrw/s1600/DSC_8781.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening's last light</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Another trip to Bali came my way in May, work-related, but still very much enjoyed as a getaway. This one was interesting from the start because we flew business class. In a bizarre booking fog, I was unable to book and pay for my economy class seats on Malaysia Airlines; there would continually be an error when I got to the payment screen online, and when I'd reload the page, of course, the fares were higher. So, and I don't even know why it occurred to me to check this because I virtually never do, I changed the class from economy to business and searched. There was a big biz class promotion, so the seats to Bali in the premium cabin were, paradoxically, even cheaper than those in coach... only RM50 (about US$14) more than seats on cramped, no-frills AirAsia. So we booked business class to Bali and it was only about US$300 round-trip, which is a total steal, and was a great way to start a luxury excursion.<br />
<br />
Though we stayed at a couple of different properties on the trip, the standout was Alila Villas Soori. Located on the southwest-ish coast of Bali, well over an hour north of the chaos of the Kuta area, the villas were right on a powdery black sand beach and were just amazing. Private pool, plenty of space, great views... it was a tropical delight. We also went on a journey into the Tabanan regency of Bali, saw some amazing views and rice terraces, and even tried <i>kopi luwak</i>, the super-premium coffee that is quite possibly the greatest testament to the power of marketing in the history of the world, in that people pay an exorbitant price for this coffee that's not only nothing special taste-wise, it's actually made from coffee beans which have been eaten, digested, and crapped out of a small mammal called a civet. That's right, not only does marketing get people to drink poop coffee at all, it gets them to pay a handsome premium for the privilege.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK5hNAhB0iG0kG-ig1eWgPpfJgfhP5YxPTe_g48VKOQRzvxuMVk9Ls3Ief8RLuTgPoHLBGX1e7githXF3ow_vzw6MU5UZ5sMRW3h1aLYl8DxOtPwLb8PrMLWXAC3ym4_BuI0geH1mOzO1B/s1600/DSC_9245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK5hNAhB0iG0kG-ig1eWgPpfJgfhP5YxPTe_g48VKOQRzvxuMVk9Ls3Ief8RLuTgPoHLBGX1e7githXF3ow_vzw6MU5UZ5sMRW3h1aLYl8DxOtPwLb8PrMLWXAC3ym4_BuI0geH1mOzO1B/s1600/DSC_9245.jpg" height="246" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The volcanic mountains of North Bali, as seen from near Ubud</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhytn2C2LYTFix3LLp07Jy5_LPnqyyyCQHXmzygiZ9u4dVRSkVE6YR7OnHghv7aFHcVAsVrsc-ju5KeahU7U7frGVxZAvS1aZM1I9NEyo6_xV7GyoifVfKhvmuqRuIwP1GZDsdmfnyFth2T/s1600/DSC_9249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhytn2C2LYTFix3LLp07Jy5_LPnqyyyCQHXmzygiZ9u4dVRSkVE6YR7OnHghv7aFHcVAsVrsc-ju5KeahU7U7frGVxZAvS1aZM1I9NEyo6_xV7GyoifVfKhvmuqRuIwP1GZDsdmfnyFth2T/s1600/DSC_9249.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A roadside café we stopped at between Ubud<br />
and Tabanan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjku3LYuhjaach1RI9ix-bWQJmwsI3RA9weXj7DOpJO-1I2YV7x1xPNWOijrhsR-C7WDbr8DgIMkv9QsdmWfaJjMeKDXFg0fhwDsSBh_WMJzhBe4W07qH4pTz4PKP7pE3c0k0POqrlHKEkY/s1600/DSC_9297.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjku3LYuhjaach1RI9ix-bWQJmwsI3RA9weXj7DOpJO-1I2YV7x1xPNWOijrhsR-C7WDbr8DgIMkv9QsdmWfaJjMeKDXFg0fhwDsSBh_WMJzhBe4W07qH4pTz4PKP7pE3c0k0POqrlHKEkY/s1600/DSC_9297.jpg" height="400" width="271" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The black sand beaches of Bali's southwest coast</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3y1qoYqbns-j87HaSaDF2-G69a2W535pGEZad-Jn-beF_qfo6QVdzfDoHqVyOOUrTidqU2m3asCBzL4s4SH3zX4a2D80msdsKp679SLfLnPI1gtXsj3iBF8pftx-nxE4_O-1Vw78KaflF/s1600/DSC_9317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3y1qoYqbns-j87HaSaDF2-G69a2W535pGEZad-Jn-beF_qfo6QVdzfDoHqVyOOUrTidqU2m3asCBzL4s4SH3zX4a2D80msdsKp679SLfLnPI1gtXsj3iBF8pftx-nxE4_O-1Vw78KaflF/s1600/DSC_9317.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset over the black sand beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFQM8hX-DZtbbGMMbVBNgJ7rmMkE-KLKLsqnnyMBhrSD3C-gu36XO99PnO9nqpUg6RRbQ4jej-pCWTg9VIuMEcT7IO5A1CYFPx9aNkjUb6MITcMWlObnL5CAFqu-FsIA60vigunu5KDXRh/s1600/DSC_9382.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFQM8hX-DZtbbGMMbVBNgJ7rmMkE-KLKLsqnnyMBhrSD3C-gu36XO99PnO9nqpUg6RRbQ4jej-pCWTg9VIuMEcT7IO5A1CYFPx9aNkjUb6MITcMWlObnL5CAFqu-FsIA60vigunu5KDXRh/s1600/DSC_9382.jpg" height="247" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking out over the Indian Ocean from Alila Villas Soori</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6nwN2BlYdwuijINOM3kXEnGNfDK174_6MBBq3kj4cqOR3fl7Akjaukf9kwIYPNQKp46w6v4yFfM03SsYdmEerQ43DAS32nc-viTqWF_FghytA5psabxTQ9NwpBkcTvqVSYw25Db_iavwX/s1600/DSC_9384.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6nwN2BlYdwuijINOM3kXEnGNfDK174_6MBBq3kj4cqOR3fl7Akjaukf9kwIYPNQKp46w6v4yFfM03SsYdmEerQ43DAS32nc-viTqWF_FghytA5psabxTQ9NwpBkcTvqVSYw25Db_iavwX/s1600/DSC_9384.jpg" height="303" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crashing surf on the black sand beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn4YfFYBgnYFOZmJAt2RwE2u66rY4p67FDWGQRng_6RocvbllMCInOEiB5_RF19VI9BXynbN8utWtZbRvRParhTwNLx9ehpIfRxWaq8eEH6pop9ousIOT7Y5VagPfUa21Ataf_bJ-LU3Ql/s1600/DSC_9387.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn4YfFYBgnYFOZmJAt2RwE2u66rY4p67FDWGQRng_6RocvbllMCInOEiB5_RF19VI9BXynbN8utWtZbRvRParhTwNLx9ehpIfRxWaq8eEH6pop9ousIOT7Y5VagPfUa21Ataf_bJ-LU3Ql/s1600/DSC_9387.jpg" height="400" width="273" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ocean view from our villa's private pool and<br />
dining pavilion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieOtAyScvXPuJD5EjfY_KhSS1EGbhmzuGVbRlmkGxq0tmJ6SsJoMI0THfFcaUddlkQDhWyvGHIs_NbsbGOnooJ50lK8q3pUgIrwc4x6uVU2eyLRkm5ji6DO_SZW1u7w8zP-8Acv63sD6fo/s1600/DSC_9428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieOtAyScvXPuJD5EjfY_KhSS1EGbhmzuGVbRlmkGxq0tmJ6SsJoMI0THfFcaUddlkQDhWyvGHIs_NbsbGOnooJ50lK8q3pUgIrwc4x6uVU2eyLRkm5ji6DO_SZW1u7w8zP-8Acv63sD6fo/s1600/DSC_9428.jpg" height="400" width="271" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Kopi luwak</i>: big price, little flavor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqbhZ5ItXA7UuFaQQ5tXTYJU6J7P8WLoOrBzfc2zhVDNf-ntGwn3hS8NLcC00ihoXllokUCQ1MSlwYTi-xzD29sXBvY5Pt-oyZ4zVOg4VjU46aVj6t6PCD2i9yESSfYV0VGZgLXVC4rtpc/s1600/DSC_9430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqbhZ5ItXA7UuFaQQ5tXTYJU6J7P8WLoOrBzfc2zhVDNf-ntGwn3hS8NLcC00ihoXllokUCQ1MSlwYTi-xzD29sXBvY5Pt-oyZ4zVOg4VjU46aVj6t6PCD2i9yESSfYV0VGZgLXVC4rtpc/s1600/DSC_9430.jpg" height="344" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stunning rice terraces in the Tabanan Regency of central Bali</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0JN4lndA0ERcv6e7a2_FpiNNckEXCIB5tOq3QqoQ-Dx6uAapCo7_3uYSxu1swJ6zlLfB4ce8SYAm218GY1K40tyHvk-MhxhT7y-DNdC_bGx5BYW92XMgkz_2OOH_caDyPDfEGOWKbVMfz/s1600/DSC_9471.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0JN4lndA0ERcv6e7a2_FpiNNckEXCIB5tOq3QqoQ-Dx6uAapCo7_3uYSxu1swJ6zlLfB4ce8SYAm218GY1K40tyHvk-MhxhT7y-DNdC_bGx5BYW92XMgkz_2OOH_caDyPDfEGOWKbVMfz/s1600/DSC_9471.jpg" height="255" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening view from our villa's pavilion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWLOLYZR2WoCcoQJXO2DUfifAmdvRzKscFDQedkyJsrOE5TL1tm5r7IIbXpkdtJfAx7CiyCROUMEBm2kftl-InkD0MYnjzMX5uS-o_dAHQSj9wFSrdP0aw7ZTYL3F-fbt4p7BHNmlHevS/s1600/DSC_9474.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWLOLYZR2WoCcoQJXO2DUfifAmdvRzKscFDQedkyJsrOE5TL1tm5r7IIbXpkdtJfAx7CiyCROUMEBm2kftl-InkD0MYnjzMX5uS-o_dAHQSj9wFSrdP0aw7ZTYL3F-fbt4p7BHNmlHevS/s1600/DSC_9474.jpg" height="255" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The private pool and living room of our ocean view villa... not bad, eh?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
I'll be returning to Bali again in the first half of 2014 (presumably) to check out and review Alila Villa's sister property, perched high on the cliffs of Uluwatu on the southern coast of the island. Can't wait!<br />
<br />
Later in 2013, I had the chance to go to Hong Kong. Though I initially came to Malaysia (as a new resident) via Hong Kong back in September 2008, I hadn't really properly visited there since a full year before so by the time 2013 rolled around, it had been six full years since I wandered Hong Kong as a tourist. It's an amazing place, truly one of the world's greatest cities. So much energy there, so much commerce, and it's a truly fun – if slightly overwhelming at times – place to spend a few days. Fortunately, we had an amazing hotel to claim as our base camp... nothing less than a corner suite in the #1-ranked hotel in all of Hong Kong, a place called The Upper House. This hotel occupies the top 12 floors of the JW Marriott building in the Admiralty district on Hong Kong Island. Previously a luxury serviced apartment residence, the floors were taken over by Swire Properties a few years ago and redesigned and renovated into some of the nicest and largest hotel rooms and suites in Hong Kong, a place where, owing to the relative scarcity of real estate, most hotel rooms are on the small size. Our suite was over 1,200 sq ft and depending on which window you stood at, had sweeping views of Victoria Harbor, Kowloon Island, and the forested hills of Hong Kong Island looming behind the dozens and dozens of soaring skyscrapers.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZXIhRSd92fnGqsCHvxUVHApadr8fDm6uxAxY2q1NFk0jsRuRRBCKL4AvYeci-yzVIUKHmssYztb42n0XLAGfZwHJpunVIo_aKqZw8_bhVeUZ419iT3OV57uPMUAAkP7vUVIs3_eUuRRT/s1600/DD+Upper-Suite-Living-Room.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZXIhRSd92fnGqsCHvxUVHApadr8fDm6uxAxY2q1NFk0jsRuRRBCKL4AvYeci-yzVIUKHmssYztb42n0XLAGfZwHJpunVIo_aKqZw8_bhVeUZ419iT3OV57uPMUAAkP7vUVIs3_eUuRRT/s1600/DD+Upper-Suite-Living-Room.jpg" height="209" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The suite comprised three distinct areas: a living room,<br />
a bedroom, and a 400-sq ft spa-like bathroom. The view<br />
from any place in the suite was pretty special.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRTP9h6FcLbu9ihLP5VQfjbNC5JVdch0bQR0G4BWB-_Jhk_6UKX4AMkx-EZwJwhpaChm30rKqmE0EhEa0LJgDqDTOGWTmBzpYCvGzufaUfol5CqYuO0HrYosYeRhhRLiahlaNHEQPUJGd_/s1600/DSC_0130e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRTP9h6FcLbu9ihLP5VQfjbNC5JVdch0bQR0G4BWB-_Jhk_6UKX4AMkx-EZwJwhpaChm30rKqmE0EhEa0LJgDqDTOGWTmBzpYCvGzufaUfol5CqYuO0HrYosYeRhhRLiahlaNHEQPUJGd_/s1600/DSC_0130e.jpg" height="251" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Central District, Hong Kong Island, with the distinctive<br />
Bank of China building on the left and the soaring<br />
International Finance Center on the right</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGBqEqr2p6AW2QwWIsUf-ms4vbX7TReTxac9Zsu6a0SKG1QU6bjLplkenNsvJE9ZzwEj62KkZw8Eh_on5B6ILxLbC8NH69kl9g5RR1vkYsz2nwjhjmYtBouIirsRlJ_fLO6om7LiyLWJDg/s1600/DSC_0135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGBqEqr2p6AW2QwWIsUf-ms4vbX7TReTxac9Zsu6a0SKG1QU6bjLplkenNsvJE9ZzwEj62KkZw8Eh_on5B6ILxLbC8NH69kl9g5RR1vkYsz2nwjhjmYtBouIirsRlJ_fLO6om7LiyLWJDg/s1600/DSC_0135.jpg" height="320" width="210" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from our suite. Well...<br />
<i>one </i>of the views</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4QJjOXPQKNGT0fsnrB05puXzHXjtzlzgNMHIWh8nSft6mfKjITtrQC8r1Tb2KCadHr0wCN9JFV1T5g0bsV-chQC-xp7jmOSRvkaSCG9LpJV6dM-B7drYlN5axt2I72WeoJwLtc7YdBQab/s1600/DSC_0168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4QJjOXPQKNGT0fsnrB05puXzHXjtzlzgNMHIWh8nSft6mfKjITtrQC8r1Tb2KCadHr0wCN9JFV1T5g0bsV-chQC-xp7jmOSRvkaSCG9LpJV6dM-B7drYlN5axt2I72WeoJwLtc7YdBQab/s1600/DSC_0168.jpg" height="320" width="219" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Kowloon Park, Tsim Sha Tsui. The idea<br />
of this little area is to, wearing only socks,<br />
walk on these tiles. Note the bars for<br />
support. Given how alarmingly painful it is,<br />
your first instinct is to collapse in a heap.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghVHLUG7ICPTymdX7XXHuUs1Uq0srQCKv-N5N2rGvamd0xDjz54Qwdwkr7pA9pcuiQN2zFiQ9_jW4LBo1tRSG3iXRkYrauhFA0P11qQ-6_ortkAZiuaxyiAZ8cutiXBgPY13UzAfQMOU_u/s1600/DSC_0179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghVHLUG7ICPTymdX7XXHuUs1Uq0srQCKv-N5N2rGvamd0xDjz54Qwdwkr7pA9pcuiQN2zFiQ9_jW4LBo1tRSG3iXRkYrauhFA0P11qQ-6_ortkAZiuaxyiAZ8cutiXBgPY13UzAfQMOU_u/s1600/DSC_0179.jpg" height="320" width="245" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An impromptu lunch of deli sandwiches,<br />
smoked almonds and Pepperidge Farms<br />
cookies (from the mini bar), and a bottle of<br />
wine... all enjoyed in our suite.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3asX1HU0MUNa3mxsKT-zORGYRbD9b4owk8lMclgvl-rTkyN-Zt8zzNZDC3WJvQDJD8guMalaYy-PQbRpsFs_IEXT6xpAqv-u8GBffz22AIbfb905pg3-oiUZJcRzVvH0UQFWgUUB0gVu_/s1600/DSC_0193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3asX1HU0MUNa3mxsKT-zORGYRbD9b4owk8lMclgvl-rTkyN-Zt8zzNZDC3WJvQDJD8guMalaYy-PQbRpsFs_IEXT6xpAqv-u8GBffz22AIbfb905pg3-oiUZJcRzVvH0UQFWgUUB0gVu_/s1600/DSC_0193.jpg" height="278" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful view from Hong Kong Park, near our hotel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiir7ZlpLuJ3EHfS5VwlNAkASU6nulrzK0JVKFjI_TIdtwjtyGvRJHdtzFqXMhkA_MW2X75tnMsbkJgo00xaWVjyHJJ9VGYsR2Vr6LPqcydG_5oxDYG319-rgt7bkRhRerM-cTI6SlgJLe5/s1600/DSC_0284.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiir7ZlpLuJ3EHfS5VwlNAkASU6nulrzK0JVKFjI_TIdtwjtyGvRJHdtzFqXMhkA_MW2X75tnMsbkJgo00xaWVjyHJJ9VGYsR2Vr6LPqcydG_5oxDYG319-rgt7bkRhRerM-cTI6SlgJLe5/s1600/DSC_0284.jpg" height="236" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Admiralty and Central Districts, Hong Kong Island,<br />
from the Avenue of Stars on Kowloon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTzDlkAJA_-znqnCQSn62rzPMAbPRS5eoGlHe4JPG2J0SeRHjexaFVYgONGRNGvUl4ySFf7HX-5o4MlChMCsErdm4bdFRv7OzHaYBU9RFOcUx7934z8PghNNcmohrFKlNET0yrsiQfAZY8/s1600/DSC_0292.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTzDlkAJA_-znqnCQSn62rzPMAbPRS5eoGlHe4JPG2J0SeRHjexaFVYgONGRNGvUl4ySFf7HX-5o4MlChMCsErdm4bdFRv7OzHaYBU9RFOcUx7934z8PghNNcmohrFKlNET0yrsiQfAZY8/s1600/DSC_0292.jpg" height="237" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The IFC tower dominates the skyline of Hong Kong Island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2qMe83ZTec51hyphenhyphen8UeLpjlNOHVnXoVDFZ5mMEtGoONLj2M2HCew465aoJKZChqmQW_aK9m4oQ6w4_ThCSinwf42-s-B_Qazn3rO95gzng1FGTszdMJg4ae5mkkK-0P6xWAzdGm1QbueJq/s1600/DSC_0302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2qMe83ZTec51hyphenhyphen8UeLpjlNOHVnXoVDFZ5mMEtGoONLj2M2HCew465aoJKZChqmQW_aK9m4oQ6w4_ThCSinwf42-s-B_Qazn3rO95gzng1FGTszdMJg4ae5mkkK-0P6xWAzdGm1QbueJq/s1600/DSC_0302.jpg" height="400" width="295" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the Hong Kong Museum of Art in Tsim Sha Tsui</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBwXAy_TkGLcS9spshUqWoZqcb_C8KsebZf5O16Y039DhbtzO7rax_rQ_fXbVjyfE5RaWGKBfsDrzJ6m0hyi06jP9uO29ABt3PikfWUIffQb8FdooeLJh3fG1rKBIaxwqR8EpPPkKn2dEy/s1600/DSC_0318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBwXAy_TkGLcS9spshUqWoZqcb_C8KsebZf5O16Y039DhbtzO7rax_rQ_fXbVjyfE5RaWGKBfsDrzJ6m0hyi06jP9uO29ABt3PikfWUIffQb8FdooeLJh3fG1rKBIaxwqR8EpPPkKn2dEy/s1600/DSC_0318.jpg" height="320" width="208" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dim sum! A lovely basket of freshly<br />
steamed <i>siew mai</i> in Tsim Sha Tsui</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxLuFoVxKMtroO5F_cxn0C8CQjFpkcmiayp5g-VSS7ELls0UgTFsjTZqRxfb2IxPUGupM5UyLKtLprOMktcSQ6FiZnwTLf-aTLW_Ad6zHXMOmadK40qhMZqZRj8fASs2xNd5gCJWIMEUP6/s1600/DSC_0337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxLuFoVxKMtroO5F_cxn0C8CQjFpkcmiayp5g-VSS7ELls0UgTFsjTZqRxfb2IxPUGupM5UyLKtLprOMktcSQ6FiZnwTLf-aTLW_Ad6zHXMOmadK40qhMZqZRj8fASs2xNd5gCJWIMEUP6/s1600/DSC_0337.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from the pedestrian bridge near our<br />
hotel in Admiralty</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_QkVcELwcalM8VLpT4VZEIOPxoXQsiIi6iRGbLTANkn0woAZXEZPRaJkplN3GzAGuz9Wd1MYuCcxVdEu3NtHWRDkls8QaBWOAV99O6-C8bk4gyklqOXt7NOU6VjUooLK2KN3JQ0iUKqFy/s1600/DSC_0349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_QkVcELwcalM8VLpT4VZEIOPxoXQsiIi6iRGbLTANkn0woAZXEZPRaJkplN3GzAGuz9Wd1MYuCcxVdEu3NtHWRDkls8QaBWOAV99O6-C8bk4gyklqOXt7NOU6VjUooLK2KN3JQ0iUKqFy/s1600/DSC_0349.jpg" height="261" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The actual view from the bathtub. No joke. Simply amazing.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaHxDpqKHe_Wsa7RZQ9QW8E91ftrlD6AbY26iQajn0rlw8DFr-fvGoNRYKzMwBSKh1PLtnfTk_OpLBVm7ax3u1exhhCHrEhiVnSTSEveghp8upfbc_6KLhJ0doBN1piou7nvgz0x5uIhkK/s1600/DSC_0356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaHxDpqKHe_Wsa7RZQ9QW8E91ftrlD6AbY26iQajn0rlw8DFr-fvGoNRYKzMwBSKh1PLtnfTk_OpLBVm7ax3u1exhhCHrEhiVnSTSEveghp8upfbc_6KLhJ0doBN1piou7nvgz0x5uIhkK/s1600/DSC_0356.jpg" height="286" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view from the suite, this time looking across Victoria Harbor<br />
towards Kowloon, with the International Commerce Center on the left</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkax47VKot1Kd8UJBu4wVZNrvpzzvG1R2CeN5UrKN_U4TqdYH3Dug6U467W7sGOyMgLDKxCk8VpadQm9jzeak65DBkkuC_Ssjs_jPjaRhLCdcdd2hLJ1JT1YJ5PAagAGPgndk_AlCnRztA/s1600/HK+night+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkax47VKot1Kd8UJBu4wVZNrvpzzvG1R2CeN5UrKN_U4TqdYH3Dug6U467W7sGOyMgLDKxCk8VpadQm9jzeak65DBkkuC_Ssjs_jPjaRhLCdcdd2hLJ1JT1YJ5PAagAGPgndk_AlCnRztA/s1600/HK+night+2.jpg" height="236" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hong Kong's skyline really comes into its own once the sun sets</td></tr>
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<br />
We wandered around, drinking with random people in Lan Kwai Fong, the city's unofficial party zone, enjoying the parks and water features in neighboring districts, and taking the ferry across the harbor to Kowloon, where we indulged in authentic Hong Kong dim sum and marveled at the stunning skyline of the hundreds of skyscrapers on Hong Kong Island. Interestingly, since my last visit, the then-under construction 1,588-foot International Commerce Center is now completed, dominating the Kowloon side just as the 1,364-foot International Finance Center towers over the Hong Kong side. (I'll add here that while they may build impressively tall buildings, they rather suck at naming them. BORING! I guess the next one will be called the International Money Counting Center.) The last day was the best, and like Bali, a return visit is being arranged for Hong Kong in 2014, too, as there's still much to see and do in this dynamic city.<br />
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I'll wrap this entry up for now and get the pictures captioned and uploaded, then start on part two. More to follow!<br />
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<br />
<br />Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-22629552687846799112013-06-04T03:01:00.001-06:002013-06-04T03:01:32.912-06:00Christmas Island: Where the Crabs Rule<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjylFCiXq7QAcvD9cWmmOA9V0-LYsCTdYmde11QNG0Q3w4zHvOyS7rnijRzHxlGrq3TQNsdjyyoXrIcQbbUn9MJXyENfMFfjZLLWB1CiMQOiLXltPup2UGJL9uRrG6OcnYcHIXt0JU1nLjk/s1600/DSC_7668.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjylFCiXq7QAcvD9cWmmOA9V0-LYsCTdYmde11QNG0Q3w4zHvOyS7rnijRzHxlGrq3TQNsdjyyoXrIcQbbUn9MJXyENfMFfjZLLWB1CiMQOiLXltPup2UGJL9uRrG6OcnYcHIXt0JU1nLjk/s320/DSC_7668.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Admit it... this is a pretty cool license plate</td></tr>
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Still in catch-up mode...<br />
<br />
After Nepal, I got to travel back home to Colorado for two weeks over Thanksgiving, then returned to KL in early December. Later that month, I was invited to Christmas Island at the end of 2012. I actually spent New Year's Eve/Day on this small island in the middle of nowhere. It was a unique experience, to be certain, but I'd honestly never recommend Christmas Island as a place to go for New Year's!<br />
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The island itself, an Australian territory, lies in the Indian Ocean, about 500km directly south of Jakarta, really not even close to the Australian continent. It's merely the tip of an iceless iceberg, the above-water portion of a massive submarine volcanic mountain. The volcano is long since extinct, but what remains is a parcel of land that, owing to its geographic isolation and a long existence free from human disturbance, possesses a substantial number of unique species of plants and animals and offers an equally unique travel experience.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8oUdyeFQpsMCalEMTVHzHxldt1kGZR0AQTmwv4MNGWO9N-TXBhivalh10MpBN5z_GFtlOF-11rQ5XYYH1yTgOGaWHSCuWDuNds741bufV32qf40ph7JVEJK93FL_t4VBtZTxXcr1HwuPq/s1600/DSC_7663.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8oUdyeFQpsMCalEMTVHzHxldt1kGZR0AQTmwv4MNGWO9N-TXBhivalh10MpBN5z_GFtlOF-11rQ5XYYH1yTgOGaWHSCuWDuNds741bufV32qf40ph7JVEJK93FL_t4VBtZTxXcr1HwuPq/s320/DSC_7663.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First view of Christmas Island from the air</td></tr>
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Christmas Island was discovered (and thus named) on Christmas Day in 1643, but it wasn't until some 45 years later that seafarers were able to successfully land on the island and start exploring it. Fast-forward two centuries or so to the time when vast reserves of phosphate were discovered on the island. With this finding, the settlement and development of the island became financially feasible, and thus it was made so, and it is this mining activity that not only gave a foundation to the island’s economy, it directly contributed to the quality of the infrastructure that is still in place today. Quality roads and pathways, hot and cold running water, reliable electrical service, proper sewerage… not always what you expect to find on a remote island, but very much the case here. Following the defeat of the Japanese, who occupied this island during WWII, the island was under Singaporean auspices as part of the UK Straits Settlement. In 1957, Australia petitioned the UK for transfer of sovereignty and paid £2.9 million to Singapore as part of the agreement, and in 1958, the first official representative of the Australian government arrived on the island, and with that, Christmas Island officially became an Australian territory – and for me, that meant another new stamp in my passport. (In fact, Australia was the final stamp in my passport, which was set to expire shortly after the Christmas Island trip.)<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0PLT4bn_NFVBKVJohD0buA8z_zkLyg4cTUQd6yX94WMEoHdO3YQvef5SgW6nDYbecId6ewGG_tp2lH2ZitQ7XG39jFQkhx26eB-lhZ9IVBFjuN3hABhoUnrVxF840DywihoxUWVL6IsHO/s1600/DSC_7682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0PLT4bn_NFVBKVJohD0buA8z_zkLyg4cTUQd6yX94WMEoHdO3YQvef5SgW6nDYbecId6ewGG_tp2lH2ZitQ7XG39jFQkhx26eB-lhZ9IVBFjuN3hABhoUnrVxF840DywihoxUWVL6IsHO/s320/DSC_7682.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the island's most famed residents</td></tr>
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Christmas Island is, of course, famous for its annual migration of Red Crabs, an endemic crab species on the island. Every year, millions of the bright red crabs make their way from the jungles to the sea as part of their mating ritual. If you time your visit right, you’ll see these crabs by the thousands, in one of nature’s most impressive mass migration spectacles. The date of the migration varies from year to year, sometimes substantially, depending on rain and weather patterns. Our trip did not coincide with the height of the migration; that occurred a few weeks later. We still saw plenty of crabs, though! Some 50 million of the red crabs are estimated to live on Christmas Island and you never had to really even look hard for them, especially after any amount of rain, when they'd emerge in droves. Perhaps even more impressive is the world’s largest population of the coconut crab, more commonly called the robber crab. This crab is the largest terrestrial arthropod in the world, and about a million are thought to live on the island. They live mostly in the forested areas of the island and can be nearly the size of a soccer ball. They are prodigious climbers and can be incredibly determined and resourceful when trying to get to something they fancy, hence their “robber” reputation.<br />
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One of my favorite experiences on this island was something called The Blowholes. After a 1-km trek through the forest, we emerged on the rocky coast. Here, the series of caverns and channels in the limestone outcroppings act as a giant echo chamber network for the crashing surf. Frequently, bursts of water and spray will erupt from fissures in the rocks. Really an otherworldly place. Here are some photos from the trip:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIUbMKfWz0TMTC2hHAdXLZPU1bWXgzfNBml6_Reg2JkZiR8bPvTrXcbPHJCj4gUaSgZ0cIv8BndOAA0xuKy2GoPT80qR59oCIHgBVL29cW1GRattjn26dQioWbDjcTjmjJUk6E2UnQpJqt/s1600/DSC_7676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIUbMKfWz0TMTC2hHAdXLZPU1bWXgzfNBml6_Reg2JkZiR8bPvTrXcbPHJCj4gUaSgZ0cIv8BndOAA0xuKy2GoPT80qR59oCIHgBVL29cW1GRattjn26dQioWbDjcTjmjJUk6E2UnQpJqt/s320/DSC_7676.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the Indian Ocean from my hotel</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOL4kXoPThWBYtDNYkcm_wt8bDPIGLTx_1yfuBvQbqIqjE_EsORsS9pWw053sAAaElnH7-AKS6vl2yiXeS5j_25v2w5WttFLRVZhpckQL8CskWsPez_vlcrmDkUS5SPX4Hi2KwqrgJ16wB/s1600/DSC_7702.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOL4kXoPThWBYtDNYkcm_wt8bDPIGLTx_1yfuBvQbqIqjE_EsORsS9pWw053sAAaElnH7-AKS6vl2yiXeS5j_25v2w5WttFLRVZhpckQL8CskWsPez_vlcrmDkUS5SPX4Hi2KwqrgJ16wB/s320/DSC_7702.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Out of business. I guess the ho wasn't so lucky, after all.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdqnIZIthg7yG7Ap-nNRWnHL5AX0QvJXbFRh2CEEYnVTNMqd8cUWvXpb-uVrPK1y5ZSvmm2eXdt0noX9KA6kVi4S06LvPJzbgmbH65KMK131OCA_zNxCnnr2mkCKA4Ip5Epra6uDZfOs4p/s1600/DSC_7707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdqnIZIthg7yG7Ap-nNRWnHL5AX0QvJXbFRh2CEEYnVTNMqd8cUWvXpb-uVrPK1y5ZSvmm2eXdt0noX9KA6kVi4S06LvPJzbgmbH65KMK131OCA_zNxCnnr2mkCKA4Ip5Epra6uDZfOs4p/s320/DSC_7707.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The red crab migration is a really big deal here</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnU1v04VAiZkcNPQT4kfLWSYucfOlmhXOZfbhLMg67DWRDfzR6lOawbwgwS9HaK_IInajqM4VE5RU_6IO93I6JXhfi13Pi-3xEQWRt7QN5qpJhD-YN2D33vYnkjTUJ9CiFzyzcFTQi2WLb/s1600/DSC_7712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnU1v04VAiZkcNPQT4kfLWSYucfOlmhXOZfbhLMg67DWRDfzR6lOawbwgwS9HaK_IInajqM4VE5RU_6IO93I6JXhfi13Pi-3xEQWRt7QN5qpJhD-YN2D33vYnkjTUJ9CiFzyzcFTQi2WLb/s320/DSC_7712.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a juvenile robber crab, picked up to show its size<br />relative to a person's hand.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxl9O9ZDyHgPRHZM39LszbTsnDwSu5MjkDlg03TQmBf-siNWJpqV9e2CdArjuiEwxxCm35SoPgbnQcXR7NXYkXq6icCwdzQzsVD0hApa0H_G3jqBNLyPrWIFTmqajEOkOaXgi9LhkrTgP5/s1600/DSC_7733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxl9O9ZDyHgPRHZM39LszbTsnDwSu5MjkDlg03TQmBf-siNWJpqV9e2CdArjuiEwxxCm35SoPgbnQcXR7NXYkXq6icCwdzQzsVD0hApa0H_G3jqBNLyPrWIFTmqajEOkOaXgi9LhkrTgP5/s320/DSC_7733.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The limestone formations at The Blowholes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNpoGMvWYMl7Upaho_35fx9EOaswcCK4XYSfwJZcL6L3ROhqeI-tlo_r7z1w92husiUjHW-_Co_BQoy2nkuGxSAMgmpglpDw5R1UZm9MwuW3yZoYGF4N9ryF5akGY-wU_Jfr04_TmXiDEz/s1600/DSC_7737.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNpoGMvWYMl7Upaho_35fx9EOaswcCK4XYSfwJZcL6L3ROhqeI-tlo_r7z1w92husiUjHW-_Co_BQoy2nkuGxSAMgmpglpDw5R1UZm9MwuW3yZoYGF4N9ryF5akGY-wU_Jfr04_TmXiDEz/s320/DSC_7737.jpg" width="209" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking the 1km or so to The Blowholes,<br />we saw this amazing tree</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8R4zAusCKz-ByWl1ACXs9PIhMiyUZiSRlVbouhNBc9-G_1UzASFKiwqi3RmTdz1Kso7gKYdKp3He6pzs-UhYxhyphenhyphen70eson69XY38Qiruz78c6kNtoRrsCG58iUrRjJ86G0OBaKxKG_0aka/s1600/DSC_7741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8R4zAusCKz-ByWl1ACXs9PIhMiyUZiSRlVbouhNBc9-G_1UzASFKiwqi3RmTdz1Kso7gKYdKp3He6pzs-UhYxhyphenhyphen70eson69XY38Qiruz78c6kNtoRrsCG58iUrRjJ86G0OBaKxKG_0aka/s320/DSC_7741.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two robber crabs showing off their climbing ability</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhErxzF5NXwx7l-ngJfLDdLhmnvo42T7Zs2E4TMElBiXCVyX84RcoYNLKSztxgzRG0D9dgKhVseWi0LwX8AVKeOZ7JviuPJ1jSc9elJtw3SFaiNGblA39pMQZj21QnCrib8Rd6-uahBUHOx/s1600/DSC_7765.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhErxzF5NXwx7l-ngJfLDdLhmnvo42T7Zs2E4TMElBiXCVyX84RcoYNLKSztxgzRG0D9dgKhVseWi0LwX8AVKeOZ7JviuPJ1jSc9elJtw3SFaiNGblA39pMQZj21QnCrib8Rd6-uahBUHOx/s320/DSC_7765.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crystal-clear waters off the coast</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUhCrOkbHGHhRfmpjHwdo8MLCQ0GFFBN_Krbqjnt27AJjAunQJpBTw2b-4-8DQcnJmizkOfAGy1iw4oOunkaEeHgviWfbX3vHH1zmZcqEOPNdnKK3ty24JZZ3clMfrBMcn2fYZkix0arks/s1600/DSC_7784e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUhCrOkbHGHhRfmpjHwdo8MLCQ0GFFBN_Krbqjnt27AJjAunQJpBTw2b-4-8DQcnJmizkOfAGy1iw4oOunkaEeHgviWfbX3vHH1zmZcqEOPNdnKK3ty24JZZ3clMfrBMcn2fYZkix0arks/s320/DSC_7784e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great Frigatebird, captured in "mid-flap" flight</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdP1x5YaODveKLIfVPCX6Y12XJgUlR_XVNnN7wraFU0k2JJXNGjlFnX7Yg5oLZhGaPKmQbjBZ8BFSwR8isT7eFB360uPni3bFb7ZHiCIJtRze0Okb8Ng-Y0M6G448YVIxiruzUIdQafWt0/s1600/DSC_7747e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdP1x5YaODveKLIfVPCX6Y12XJgUlR_XVNnN7wraFU0k2JJXNGjlFnX7Yg5oLZhGaPKmQbjBZ8BFSwR8isT7eFB360uPni3bFb7ZHiCIJtRze0Okb8Ng-Y0M6G448YVIxiruzUIdQafWt0/s320/DSC_7747e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beautiful Golden Bosun in flight</td></tr>
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<br />
This island was a dire place to spend New Year's Eve, I must say again, but it was worth suffering through that night for what was unquestionably a great opportunity to do something and go somewhere I almost certainly never would have were it not job-related. Because Christmas Island is not on any regular flight schedule (except perhaps from Perth, Australia) and due to its relative isolation and commensurate high prices, a trip to this island can be quite costly. As the fledgling tourism industry strives to take hold there, it may be that one day, it's an easier destination that will see more people exploring and experiencing it. For my part, the people there were exceptionally friendly (and they all love their island) and for those interested in nature or wildlife, it's an easy place to recommend. To wrap up, here's a short, fairly rubbishy video shot at The Blowholes to give you an idea of what it was like...<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyUpEBU3FCz6lbf-sTaH3oWnXXcGd35BOizWcPvUg6eeJBKby_Xq7JknMGkQqRGw-sVj0r6-fzJo4kb--e-Ew' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br />
<br />Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-17023215630241481112013-02-28T01:58:00.000-07:002015-04-26T11:01:02.166-06:00Nepal, part two<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
So where were we...? (<a href="http://chadinkl.blogspot.com/2012_09_01_archive.html" target="_blank">click here</a> for part 1) Ah yes, Nepal...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk_8aTv0KAMkTFbenwSn_8DC9HUnrv_FP_h-YjJ8KOgY_mwGlHKlTdEElnB1bPa9BuxFhoHSEQgYin1O-g3418Pzf5F31mJTnnAndFs6_W6YYMFbj7VHZqlQ9owrxG30iWTvdcHE8wF7z3/s1600/DSC_6730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk_8aTv0KAMkTFbenwSn_8DC9HUnrv_FP_h-YjJ8KOgY_mwGlHKlTdEElnB1bPa9BuxFhoHSEQgYin1O-g3418Pzf5F31mJTnnAndFs6_W6YYMFbj7VHZqlQ9owrxG30iWTvdcHE8wF7z3/s400/DSC_6730.JPG" height="255" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sweeping view of the countryside on the road to Nagarkot Hill</td></tr>
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Let's start back at Bhaktapur. If I were advising a person who could only spend one day in or around Kathmandu, I think this is probably where I'd suggest they go. Boudhanath was really enjoyable, but the Bhaktapur area was just enchanting in every way. The history, the splendid architecture, the local culture on display, the artisans and potters, the small cafés and roadside eateries... it was great. The one truly unsavory aspect was a section outside the main enclave that has sprung up solely to cater to the tourist trade. Much like any such place that exists only to serve tourists, it attracts all manner of beggars and hangers-on, and it became tiresome very quickly being besieged at every turn with exhortations to buy this or that. I only managed to keep it in perspective by reminding myself that, for these people, there simply is no other choice. This is what they must do to put food on their tables. So though that didn't make it less aggravating on the surface, it helped keep me from total despair. And to be fair, there were a lot of really interesting shops with all sorts of goodies for people who like such things... pashmina shawls, mountaineering apparel and equipment, crafts, lots of the singing bowls, and of course, an avalanche of typical tourist dreck – t-shirts, mugs, postcards, etc.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOf8ZQ5tzXyOe1yYWOkk_GWO5yLoBmw461Iw8aYVV8Z6ELdY7yAczVXmuprAXXjrLuTX40U3MfIzr2I3Aig1OOAvgUth690Qu3LS0XawlyLUUwvGYVfMBFMDc-A1nisgnw8ws5aPd6t1bk/s1600/DSC_6669.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOf8ZQ5tzXyOe1yYWOkk_GWO5yLoBmw461Iw8aYVV8Z6ELdY7yAczVXmuprAXXjrLuTX40U3MfIzr2I3Aig1OOAvgUth690Qu3LS0XawlyLUUwvGYVfMBFMDc-A1nisgnw8ws5aPd6t1bk/s320/DSC_6669.JPG" height="262" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A typical scene of near-bedlam ensued everywhere<br />
our group walked</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi88blDVIkWBYi19qSSF7DVPQTJJU21EeEXiPKz3d6KNibIwZO9qgow9mtRCx1lsrZXCUF9x5dvsZawPzbwsMx9tKGl9ZEjECQCnIgrl3gVkMXD0pyNBlXdhObzUbXD0JipP2ZCySGfjkUA/s1600/DSC_6685.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi88blDVIkWBYi19qSSF7DVPQTJJU21EeEXiPKz3d6KNibIwZO9qgow9mtRCx1lsrZXCUF9x5dvsZawPzbwsMx9tKGl9ZEjECQCnIgrl3gVkMXD0pyNBlXdhObzUbXD0JipP2ZCySGfjkUA/s320/DSC_6685.JPG" height="187" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An inviting array of soft pashmina scarves</td></tr>
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For me, possibly the best part of Bhaktapur was Durbar Square, as I mentioned in the first post. I can imagine how it was in its prime, hundreds of years ago, crowded with people, bustling with activity and trade. Today, one of the standout buildings is the Nyatapola Temple, dedicated to the Hindu goddess of prosperity, Siddha Laxmi. Nyatapola, which actually means “five-storey temple” in the Newari language, was completed in 1702 and, at 30m in height, is a towering five-tiered pagoda-style temple that ranks among Nepal’s tallest. As you ascend the stairs leading to the platform, little carved statues adorn every step on each side. The examples of craftsmanship and architecture on display here are truly remarkable and it was a most enjoyable place to visit. We met some interesting Nepalese kids, had some truly delicious food (including the ubiquitous <i>momo</i>, a meat-and-veggie dumpling), and I felt it was really a treat to be there for the day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfcrii7YRsZbx06aVxzqihZ4b6bAmRNceyvquQGec2nS3gYri-CAreiu3_fKautqWexU4YkPwydwVolo73DqFj4943V3vn9toRQoUIm-TqET7HHaLwY2i8utOuEPlq7NjwcifJrHqkKq2f/s1600/DSC_6706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfcrii7YRsZbx06aVxzqihZ4b6bAmRNceyvquQGec2nS3gYri-CAreiu3_fKautqWexU4YkPwydwVolo73DqFj4943V3vn9toRQoUIm-TqET7HHaLwY2i8utOuEPlq7NjwcifJrHqkKq2f/s320/DSC_6706.JPG" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our café, at left, just beside Nyatapola Temple, Durbar Square</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhT0d0TQlD8Opsh3RecsfKoWD93odjv75zc_FpIEtK_nomMvwuJFzmFVxn92kDwm4R5ASys_dSK53RLcpHI_1H0fjne2_PjaMsH17wdkUsbvm8gesEbeBtfJmRi9Q14nVKR9L2xNM3g-E6/s1600/DSC_6545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhT0d0TQlD8Opsh3RecsfKoWD93odjv75zc_FpIEtK_nomMvwuJFzmFVxn92kDwm4R5ASys_dSK53RLcpHI_1H0fjne2_PjaMsH17wdkUsbvm8gesEbeBtfJmRi9Q14nVKR9L2xNM3g-E6/s320/DSC_6545.JPG" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The famous – and delicious – <i>momo</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI7xk9z2x_xToDlBvkOh-52FwGLeWlUo4mOsQoM33JwBdyIx6NTmSUcp8QZTTauybIYonYB7OxZnySnrtYm2XGSINU1LJ6oe_YLPaRfe_377tMINNXMw6hL_bcAeBhf9DWw822vE97BCNE/s1600/DSC_6717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI7xk9z2x_xToDlBvkOh-52FwGLeWlUo4mOsQoM33JwBdyIx6NTmSUcp8QZTTauybIYonYB7OxZnySnrtYm2XGSINU1LJ6oe_YLPaRfe_377tMINNXMw6hL_bcAeBhf9DWw822vE97BCNE/s400/DSC_6717.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nyatapola Temple, built in 1702</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp6VlIQDeX1tCs2UkBmlKj8whc-ROXoxcAkUcU5FGIZEMIE581feXeAC6FLD8gcNnGo8cKBYJD9OLSnqVKklC2St0s7-bajV9wyNtn7iv3tluekx-bABz9hcTOgHhGev7ff-LakafjdesO/s1600/DSC_6637.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp6VlIQDeX1tCs2UkBmlKj8whc-ROXoxcAkUcU5FGIZEMIE581feXeAC6FLD8gcNnGo8cKBYJD9OLSnqVKklC2St0s7-bajV9wyNtn7iv3tluekx-bABz9hcTOgHhGev7ff-LakafjdesO/s400/DSC_6637.JPG" height="311" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the figurines on one of the temples, Durbar Square</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN7qbpw55YGFa79OJtIXoCzMS7ORrC_IgZlcyf5MqRIxB5bprmkum_x8AKRFYNTH6KVfT4noRmQR4Re3TmLiy5IDosA_eGWITMyJY271cdjAgx20zaxLpCgbC9JDfo7a-vRhtutVmBDAar/s1600/DSC_6708.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN7qbpw55YGFa79OJtIXoCzMS7ORrC_IgZlcyf5MqRIxB5bprmkum_x8AKRFYNTH6KVfT4noRmQR4Re3TmLiy5IDosA_eGWITMyJY271cdjAgx20zaxLpCgbC9JDfo7a-vRhtutVmBDAar/s320/DSC_6708.JPG" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another delicious example of what can only be<br />
called Nepalese fusion cuisine</td></tr>
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After our explorations in and around the city, we headed for the cool highlands of the Himalayan foothills. We were in a small tour bus and as we wound our way up the curving road to Nagarkot Hill, it was both amusing and appalling to see local buses – not only fully loaded with passengers inside, but carrying a couple of dozen extra on the roof, as well – careening around curves. Once we got to the top (2,200m / 7,260 ft.), clouds prevented any grand views of the Himalayas, but the scene was still pretty amazing. I really felt I wanted to stay longer, not just in the Nagarkot area, but in Nepal. However, on these sponsored trips, the price one pays for having everything provided at no charge is that there's a pretty fixed itinerary and a typically full schedule. Indeed, these was the case on my trip to Kathmandu, as we kept pretty busy for the four days we were there. It was really memorable though, and it's only because I've got so many other things to write about to get this blog even close to being caught up that I don't write more about the Nepal trip.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAlJbjZKWfYLg2HU3ruCs465d2HsNH0wIdwQ4twFh3v7ybQl6F_flhIggoIVaOrXqx1eZGojzCs0OTMZQA0sy9ex8WORKdQdDgBcLhA-9CgknmSQ0FpcPvH63tQxNfO2tFGb29Fg5V-811/s1600/DSC_6668.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAlJbjZKWfYLg2HU3ruCs465d2HsNH0wIdwQ4twFh3v7ybQl6F_flhIggoIVaOrXqx1eZGojzCs0OTMZQA0sy9ex8WORKdQdDgBcLhA-9CgknmSQ0FpcPvH63tQxNfO2tFGb29Fg5V-811/s320/DSC_6668.JPG" height="209" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near Bhaktapur</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCaHJYzHA6R1CksNBijV3xTirWgq72PJuEellOvGSrqlNytrBW1_W2D8O5QnsVj_Gz3NVXs1ME-Tw4psg0bVIbVRKXgc6ATwLfp8-O85N9Ts_iIy06JqLPEvjrUPPO7aLpYrWur1hSdWff/s1600/DSC_6720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCaHJYzHA6R1CksNBijV3xTirWgq72PJuEellOvGSrqlNytrBW1_W2D8O5QnsVj_Gz3NVXs1ME-Tw4psg0bVIbVRKXgc6ATwLfp8-O85N9Ts_iIy06JqLPEvjrUPPO7aLpYrWur1hSdWff/s320/DSC_6720.JPG" height="195" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A typical residence in the countryside; as a family grows<br />
in size, more levels are added</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUt84lJZSN9HkOHRN3RxReL13uDFtaKRv6MYSpkNSyEGhorCsjL3ZtC5rVVtQ9LK7LDW5AL4fS0aAZKSD8w9QuZ-P5yp2Ygr6RnKXqnPyAqjIHbjiJYdMlJaI2RcbIMxm94pJGFU5pHKnv/s1600/DSC_6722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUt84lJZSN9HkOHRN3RxReL13uDFtaKRv6MYSpkNSyEGhorCsjL3ZtC5rVVtQ9LK7LDW5AL4fS0aAZKSD8w9QuZ-P5yp2Ygr6RnKXqnPyAqjIHbjiJYdMlJaI2RcbIMxm94pJGFU5pHKnv/s400/DSC_6722.JPG" height="400" width="273" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near Nagarkot Hill</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHbifPEPTQVKgK1cwHBkWQPkdbxMpcgnKqvstOxamFid7peve4hsC93kd70R_iqAKyimzmnY5Z8fY7Rwdpljyj78GvVyTlL9fmwT6HgnGq6m6eAAgsAYYAwySYfntkAvcRHSncpycnXR2o/s1600/DSC_6747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHbifPEPTQVKgK1cwHBkWQPkdbxMpcgnKqvstOxamFid7peve4hsC93kd70R_iqAKyimzmnY5Z8fY7Rwdpljyj78GvVyTlL9fmwT6HgnGq6m6eAAgsAYYAwySYfntkAvcRHSncpycnXR2o/s400/DSC_6747.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The stunning valley view from the road to Nakargot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I'll throw in some photos here (do be sure to click on them to see them larger), call it an entry, then move on. It's ridiculous that I've let the blog languish for so long. I'll try to be better! :)<br />
<br />
To close, here's an excerpt from the magazine article I wrote about my trip to Nepal:<br />
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<br />
<i>Nepal’s considerable strengths, however, are also among its liabilities. Landlocked, with exceptionally rugged terrain and few natural resources, the country has been plagued by poor infrastructure and even beset by political strife. That seems to be changing for the better, and though Nepal is a poor country, the country is making real strides, with the percentage of those living in extreme poverty decreasing from 53% to 25% in the last few years. As more channels open for tourism and trade, it is hoped that the warm, affable people of Nepal will reap the benefits and share in the bounty that visitors bring to this remarkable South Asian country.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>As a visitor, it’s difficult to see such stoic, hardworking people consigned to a life of unending labor and poverty. It’s almost impossible to look past it, however, particularly on the streets of Kathmandu where the woebegone state of the country’s infrastructure is on stark display. At night, much of the nation is plunged into darkness. Only 40% of Nepal has access to electricity, there are almost no street lights – even in the city, and electricity isn't terribly reliable – rolling blackouts are not uncommon, though many hotels have backup generators.</i><br />
<br />
<i>Regrettably, too many in our world live like this. Travel is a very real way to not only bring our own tourist dollars to struggling people, but to help us appreciate the good things in our own lives that are often taken for granted. Nepal is a worthwhile holiday destination that will not only leave you with treasured cultural and scenic memories, but also one that will fill you with gratitude for the treasures you already possess.</i><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvCyz8usVWO2Fi7Xcmy8zXTSHYhTC4olJTtUTYHVOPdC_NSYp5i4B3ONYH3kvQrpAaSqGx1QSw0h8rV1LwHiZ438etvJjhQaJirgyFOYQ2XlcHxwa8s4ryoioC0pXDxXcr7yeITRbJ4lJN/s1600/DSC_6780.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvCyz8usVWO2Fi7Xcmy8zXTSHYhTC4olJTtUTYHVOPdC_NSYp5i4B3ONYH3kvQrpAaSqGx1QSw0h8rV1LwHiZ438etvJjhQaJirgyFOYQ2XlcHxwa8s4ryoioC0pXDxXcr7yeITRbJ4lJN/s400/DSC_6780.JPG" height="252" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aerial shot of part of Kathmandu – note the conspicuous absence of roads</td></tr>
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Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-50749258553640287652012-11-11T09:18:00.003-07:002012-11-12T10:27:30.358-07:00US elects a president, Florida watches from the sideline<br />
Imagine two siblings being scolded by their parents and banished to their respective rooms. One sibling dutifully, almost meekly, climbs the stairs to his bedroom. But not the other... oh no, that one pushes back from the table and leaps to his feet so fast the chair is sent skittering. He blusters and moans that it's not his fault, it's because of this... or that... or perhaps even this AND that. And then he storms and stomps up to his room, slamming the door, raging all the while, then proceeds to smash things in his room in a fit of unbridled fury.<br />
<br />
That second sibling, my friends, is America's Republican Party as of November 7, 2012.<br />
<br />
The night before, American voters delivered a punishing, blistering smackdown the likes of which I've not seen in my lifetime. It wasn't just the Republican stooge Mitt Romney who lost the presidency, the entire nefarious ideology of the Republican Party was dismantled and thrown out. It was very nearly a clean sweep across the board and on the strength of over 62 million votes, Barack Obama was elected to a second term. Turns out that the 47% was really more like the 51%. The Romney/Ryan ticket amassed even fewer votes than loser Republican candidates John McCain and Sarah Palin did in 2008. The Republican establishment was not amused, because for weeks, they had been telling themselves and each other that all the momentum was on Romney's side, and many of the Republican pundits were openly predicting a Romney landslide, despite there being absolutely no facts or polls to lend credence to this claim. None. The Romney campaign even dropped $25,000 on a massive fireworks display over Boston Harbor (in the state of which Romney was once governor and which went for Obama by like a 30-point margin) to celebrate his certain victory. How's that for hubris? It's not without a bit of schadenfreude that I confess I smiled at the thought of all those skyrockets and mortars being wrapped back up, impotent and useless, and sent back to the warehouse.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0GVMROZftXBl5Drrwr6luKKJ6IqtLT1AL-mTYZIQa9YTVgwp9BTp9D4qsDrsnuF2BXjMWT-581H-_np3gVMElT5X3YKOmszLxv9yU42a8dF0psoh-YSo_2ePDbVxXL_AXhFze_GLl-xnO/s1600/obama.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0GVMROZftXBl5Drrwr6luKKJ6IqtLT1AL-mTYZIQa9YTVgwp9BTp9D4qsDrsnuF2BXjMWT-581H-_np3gVMElT5X3YKOmszLxv9yU42a8dF0psoh-YSo_2ePDbVxXL_AXhFze_GLl-xnO/s320/obama.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ohhh Mr. and Mrs. Obama... the world feels the same way</td></tr>
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Meanwhile, back in reality, it was a triumphant night for regular Americans, and the evening also held a treasure trove of election happiness for gays and lesbians, Latinos, women of all colors, and hey... even pot smokers caught a break when not one, but two states legalized marijuana for recreational use. What this election really was, though, was a clear signal about the dawn of a new America. This was likely the Republicans' last, best chance to get a candidate elected to try to shape the country to their conservative ways. And they bet it all. Mitt Romney ran hands-down the most dishonest campaign I think I've ever seen at the presidential level. You expect politicians to play a bit fast and loose with facts, distort some things, cherry pick some statistics. Romney and his people flat-out lied. They made things up. They invented an alternate reality. The press took to calling VP candidate Paul Ryan "Lyin' Ryan." And their last-ditch, desperate Hail Mary pass late in the game? Trying to convince the autoworker-heavy Midwestern states that thanks to Obama, Jeep would be sending its production overseas to China. Even the carmakers jumped on Romney hard for these lies. But instead of retreating, Romney just dug in and upped the ante, reasserting the lies. But Americans – at least the majority of them – didn't fall for the trap. Not this time.<br />
<br />
Karl Rove, the political guru whose gift to the world was two terms of Bush and Cheney, convinced billionaire donors to pony up some $300 million to his Super PACs to elect a raft of Republican candidates, including one-time presidential hopeful Newt Gingrich and, naturally, good ol' Mitt. They all lost, so Rove had a public freakout on live television trying to argue the results of the election to none other than the propaganda arm of the Republican Party itself, Fox News, which had just called Ohio, and subsequently the election, for President Obama.<br />
<br />
And now the real reckoning begins... and not just for Karl Rove.<br />
<br />
If we're to see another Republican president in the next decade or two, the party is simply going to have to start remaking itself, something Republicans have seemed remarkably unwilling to do. Already, they've come up with over a dozen reasons why their guy lost the election. Not one of them has to do with the real reasons. As long as these guys keep their heads buried in the sand and refuse to pop the alternate-universe bubble and let a little reality seep in, the next election will look an awful lot like this one did.<br />
<br />
When you consider that America always moves (albeit slowly) to a more progressive place, this can only be seen as a good thing. Hopefully, the Republicans will come around and modify their platform and reject the extreme elements in their party because a healthy two-party system is necessary and desirable for America to thrive. I hope this, but I don't have a great deal of confidence that they'll do it right away.<br />
<br />
And Florida, bless them, <i>finally </i>got around to counting their votes. The banana republic state that's somehow still allowed to participate in national elections after the debacle in 2000 still can't manage to hold a proper election 12 years later. Finally though, four days after every other state in the country, Florida did finally manage to count enough votes to declare Obama had carried their state, too, giving him an electoral near-landslide of 332 to 206 votes. That it took so long didn't matter this time, though: Sorry Florida, the rest of us went on ahead and elected the president without you.Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-75728583177988687002012-09-30T11:21:00.003-06:002015-04-26T10:59:28.518-06:00A new stamp in the passport<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEIFnolEVk0ATPkTsaJjcTnSNmrLhY3UepYd73iRfLyN3cyGVZzKMF_SwBBW475bX6gwrtzBbXqF0FE7AxMShUoyRhIMhqYwgX0c2oTyLOmX5GFss_Nold2oTN0OFH9C8IecBlRwHgfC0/s1600/DSC_6782e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEIFnolEVk0ATPkTsaJjcTnSNmrLhY3UepYd73iRfLyN3cyGVZzKMF_SwBBW475bX6gwrtzBbXqF0FE7AxMShUoyRhIMhqYwgX0c2oTyLOmX5GFss_Nold2oTN0OFH9C8IecBlRwHgfC0/s400/DSC_6782e.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2,000 miles from KL: Here's Kathmandu from the air</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It's a bit shameful, really. I've now been here in Malaysia for a surprising four years, and though I've certainly traveled around a fair bit, I've only managed to add one new country to my passport that wasn't already there before I moved to KL, and that's Thailand, a country I've now visited six times, I believe. Last week, that changed as I finally added a new country to my soon-to-expire passport: Nepal.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx0xDPC4q8mWD7j47YWYe8AJK_Jqell2hzcOGHgshjpVILdauzaZxh8q40vnor1p7S7ShVB6uR62t19U0_cn32nPRvYaS6eVJyZL0urnZb-6HpkecY1DRFhMqJxpbNEJzrfvYtMSMo53IK/s1600/DSC_6409e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx0xDPC4q8mWD7j47YWYe8AJK_Jqell2hzcOGHgshjpVILdauzaZxh8q40vnor1p7S7ShVB6uR62t19U0_cn32nPRvYaS6eVJyZL0urnZb-6HpkecY1DRFhMqJxpbNEJzrfvYtMSMo53IK/s320/DSC_6409e.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Malaysian dancers on hand to perform at the<br />
gala dinner hosted jointly by the<br />
Malaysian and Nepali Tourism Boards</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Malaysia Airlines just launched its thrice-weekly service to Kathmandu, and I was invited along for the inaugural flight and all the commensurate pomp and circumstance that accompanied it. This was much more than just a new flight route; it was a major opening of trade and tourism channels between Malaysia and Nepal, so both countries really worked hard to make it a great event.<br />
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<br />
As for me, I was thrilled to get the chance to experience firsthand the amazing twin landscapes of Nepal: the cultural and the geographical. The landlocked nation is justly famous for them both. Of course, Nepal is probably most well-known as the home of Mt. Everest, but it's also recognized as the birthplace of Lord Buddha.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5pZPUvcMSMeFISQHvcCI91x8OD-FGaGC2EAxXITtiPrl4C6gHpHSG98vgTEdsIQn__JOiSONeuAZVTGKbBqLXH8SI8dxjgntwj1YiBvp1KG8u4fFZRE82HDTZGgj08WQvQvlCR41oXeHR/s1600/DSC_6439e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5pZPUvcMSMeFISQHvcCI91x8OD-FGaGC2EAxXITtiPrl4C6gHpHSG98vgTEdsIQn__JOiSONeuAZVTGKbBqLXH8SI8dxjgntwj1YiBvp1KG8u4fFZRE82HDTZGgj08WQvQvlCR41oXeHR/s320/DSC_6439e.jpg" height="197" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amid the omnipresent rubble, workers carry their<br />
baskets to one of their seemingly endless demolition sites</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHmXyqTWs_YxtwMv8z65WzZSp4aWctDj7Z_N3Ii2hbCNO4uM4Uh8KnxjotmQaT7Eb_r372-ESwoHembTRhmhD9uPUf5q50AfFuLkheYwG10UuCLzJd6Ot5keitXZsKR9nRO8IeoEupsm6X/s1600/DSC_6444e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHmXyqTWs_YxtwMv8z65WzZSp4aWctDj7Z_N3Ii2hbCNO4uM4Uh8KnxjotmQaT7Eb_r372-ESwoHembTRhmhD9uPUf5q50AfFuLkheYwG10UuCLzJd6Ot5keitXZsKR9nRO8IeoEupsm6X/s320/DSC_6444e.jpg" height="320" width="194" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Women load the baskets, which<br />
are supported solely by the head<br />
and neck, with bricks to be<br />
cleaned and reused</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It was quite a rush as our plane descended into the bowl-shaped Kathmandu Valley, ringed by four major mountain ranges... a whole new place, a new experience. We stepped out onto the tarmac and as we made our way into the airport, wow... well, let's just say there wasn't much doubt we were in a third-world country. This perception was only heightened as we made our way to the hotel. Nepal, isolated by rugged geography and possessing limited natural resources, has long been a country beset by poor infrastructure and fairly extreme poverty. Much of that is clearly on display. Just along the street on which our hotel was located, they were working on widening the road, but with labor so cheap, it makes more economic sense to do the work by hand than to pay to bring in heavy equipment, so buildings are being gutted, reduced in size, or sometimes razed altogether... all by hand. Men and women with sledgehammers and chisels, carrying away rubble and bricks in rattan baskets. Workers painstakingly chip away the dried mortar from bricks because, even though it takes hours, it's more cost-effective than crushing the bricks and remaking them. It's frightful how little the average worker in Nepal makes – in local currency, it's about 6,000 Nepalese Rupees per month, which is equivalent to US$69. And that's for a month's worth of hard work, too, often 12 or so hours a day with no weekends, no holidays, no medical benefits. To say that a trip to Kathmandu puts my own life in perspective is an understatement. Nepal ranks 161st out of 180 countries in terms of wealth (per capita GDP PPP). Even Bangladesh is a full 10 spots higher on the list. To put it in real perspective, it takes the average Nepalese worker over <i>three years</i> to earn what his American counterpart will earn in one month.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbS8tRh0N7UruqmSaxLXLxrZXlAjJQrSdRTm2pLpKblLvsz0HY_RfCgwIb9vIxtvAjC0FTUDy18eyXkGkzF3eHWwyCAvuVAnoKYIvEr93LWE86qrgNNdtoatKKNetYB2zKwPOH7REuaYW6/s1600/DSC_6470e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbS8tRh0N7UruqmSaxLXLxrZXlAjJQrSdRTm2pLpKblLvsz0HY_RfCgwIb9vIxtvAjC0FTUDy18eyXkGkzF3eHWwyCAvuVAnoKYIvEr93LWE86qrgNNdtoatKKNetYB2zKwPOH7REuaYW6/s320/DSC_6470e.jpg" height="320" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A body being prepared for cremation on the<br />
banks of the Bagmati River, Pashupatinath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The cultural landscape, however, was quite different from the economic one. The rich history of Hinduism and Buddhism have filled the country with temples, festivals, rituals, and a great tapestry of bright colors, seemingly at every turn. The first holy site we visited was the great Hindu temple and grounds of Pashupatinath, one of the most venerated Hindu temples in the world. The temple is dedicated to an incarnation of the Lord Shiva called Pashupati, the lord of the animals, and is situated on the banks of the Bagmati River, considered a holy river. Although only born Hindus are permitted to enter the actual temple, the rest of us could wander the grounds freely, as well as view the temple from across the river. Next to the temple itself are ten open-air crematorial platforms where the deceased, wrapped in cloth, are ceremonially burned as is obligatory in Hinduism, then swept away into the fast-flowing waters of the Bagmati. Far downstream from Pashupatinath, the Bagmati joins the mighty Ganges River, and ultimately drains into the Bay of Bengal. On the morning we visited, a body was being prepared for cremation by the riverside. Family members drew water from the river and splashed themselves with it as the men prepared the kindling and tinder to ignite the blaze. Just steps away from the temple, a centuries-old hospice stands. Our guide told us that many Hindus, as they grow old, will make plans to enter the hospice at the end of their lives, awaiting death on the banks of the holy Bagmati, and will not only end their mortal life there, but in cremation, take their place in the next life from a sacred and auspicious portal. Though all of the activity underway there – and there was a lot of it – was obviously quite lost on me, Pashupatinath was admittedly a special place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw4tNQep-vaOEeb7gqhbecKHlrQHVnzCJNRBSvFL1iKRt8UXXUe1pItb8pruOWReKiom9KbFulhCpy1GOZI7XwQDEq-fGx-s-kwmR7ExaWVXwoCstpyKfn13TZICyjdt_eLfrw1N1smyO8/s1600/DSC_6537e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw4tNQep-vaOEeb7gqhbecKHlrQHVnzCJNRBSvFL1iKRt8UXXUe1pItb8pruOWReKiom9KbFulhCpy1GOZI7XwQDEq-fGx-s-kwmR7ExaWVXwoCstpyKfn13TZICyjdt_eLfrw1N1smyO8/s320/DSC_6537e.jpg" height="199" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Tibetan family visiting Boudhanath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I also got to visit Boudhanath, a large Buddhist stupa on the northeastern outskirts of Kathmandu. This was a very enjoyable stop, as the 36-meter high stupa, built over 1,500 years ago, is surrounded by a ring of shops, galleries, and restaurants, giving the UNESCO Heritage Site a very "town square" feel -- though in a circular shape. The dominant culture here is Himalayan/Tibetan, and we saw a number of maroon-clad Tibetan monks on and around the stupa, including some teenage boys posing "gangsta-style" and snapping photos with their digital cameras, which was a rather humorous juxtaposition of the traditional and the modern.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwCYoc-cFHqUGzeozEtwc7wEp_zfzz7iIhTJSxJ8EcNrT9M1XPPWzGJ90KStwbEECPyhxv_a79dslRFK6yYCStsnbo08osCi5plL8EzUbTX0jhBfE1cwbiENh3lJe20w6uOsrU7H3CYKs/s1600/DSC_6508e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwCYoc-cFHqUGzeozEtwc7wEp_zfzz7iIhTJSxJ8EcNrT9M1XPPWzGJ90KStwbEECPyhxv_a79dslRFK6yYCStsnbo08osCi5plL8EzUbTX0jhBfE1cwbiENh3lJe20w6uOsrU7H3CYKs/s320/DSC_6508e.jpg" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 36-meter high stupa at Boudhanath, festooned with<br />
Buddhist prayer flags</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of the fascinating things we saw there was a shop selling nothing but Tibetan singing bowls, which have been made in the region for centuries. The bowls are actually considered standing bells, and are certainly correctly called musical instruments. The craftsmanship of some of these bowls, particularly the larger ones, was remarkable. Though the word on the street (which we heard repeatedly) was that the bowls were made from "seven different metals," a bit of research upon my return suggested that's nothing more than urban legend. The bowls have actually been found to be made from an alloy of copper and tin, more commonly known as bronze, which is the top alloy of choice for fine musical instruments, so I'm not sure where the story about seven metals originated. I guess the marketing wisdom is that if two metals are outstanding, well... seven metals must be even better!<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3gVctEP0xSuG-CicwYOOCruBAmpF0ShwXSz-UTEZS9YJxIrRUBxbELM3IHKKPyMikfLWPAX3Adn3pTNurs5S6I3er5Z-1G6oT2rvzqhaFNCaqs0TJTnJf7g9duyZ15Mn0nTba4_QxCYxC/s1600/DSC_6575e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3gVctEP0xSuG-CicwYOOCruBAmpF0ShwXSz-UTEZS9YJxIrRUBxbELM3IHKKPyMikfLWPAX3Adn3pTNurs5S6I3er5Z-1G6oT2rvzqhaFNCaqs0TJTnJf7g9duyZ15Mn0nTba4_QxCYxC/s320/DSC_6575e.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"And on top of all that, you won't find a better salad bowl!"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The shop we spent some time in was manned by two local guys who were keen to show us pretty much every bowl in the place, but they were pretty charming, so we played along. One of the girls in my group good-naturedly let them put a huge bowl on her head, then set it to "singing" while she assumed a meditative pose. Not sure what healing effect this was supposed to have rendered to her, but since she didn't leave with a ringing headache, we all considered the effort a success. As the young guys shared with us, the finest singing bowls are handmade and usually have a dimpled, hammered finish and produce a rich vibrating tone as you lightly strike the rim of the bowl with a mallet. As you continue to draw the mallet around the outside rim of the bowl, the intensity of the harmonic overtones swells and the distinctive "singing" sound is produced. These bowls are used primarily in meditation rituals, but also for "sound healing" purposes, as the vibration is purported to have some sort of restorative effect on the body. I was so fascinated by these instruments, I bought a small one for myself. It's not a top-quality handmade bowl, but rather a machine-lathed bowl (made from a brass alloy rather than a bronze alloy) likely churned out for the tourist trade, but that's fine; it's a beautiful souvenir and was quite inexpensive.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoYl3eEm3egYDlSDCNly9mWNq6SmDFpI_-8JX9blI8u0izRLvlzgknmJIT-9a86lSPHy4fSO9PQeyExBb0_L__KFEtW3sVyAZRQ8dR6B7lW5fUB9Ys_c9gCTOcwzYAg5hjC3za8GynT8Aw/s1600/DSC_6453e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoYl3eEm3egYDlSDCNly9mWNq6SmDFpI_-8JX9blI8u0izRLvlzgknmJIT-9a86lSPHy4fSO9PQeyExBb0_L__KFEtW3sVyAZRQ8dR6B7lW5fUB9Ys_c9gCTOcwzYAg5hjC3za8GynT8Aw/s320/DSC_6453e.jpg" height="320" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A brilliant palette of natural pigments</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Apart from the singing bowls, an artist's gallery was another favorite shop of mine where Nepalese and Tibetan women sat in the gallery, mixing pigments and working on their paintings. We also ate while we were at Boudhanath, and I'd say everyone's favorite food was the ubiquitous "momo," a steamed dumpling filled with bits of yak or buffalo meat, vegetables, and spices like garlic, ginger, and coriander. Absolutely mouthwatering! I've been on the hunt for a Nepalese restaurant in KL since I got back, hoping to find these little bite-sized parcels locally.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-TVAjQdrcp2RChnucocQ9btmzLNsTAvXykDuDL9j0Jq5xYbWsf1slzDhc4cuTpmc2ckahNVHPqw-eBCV63bj99-Wvys1Wb3CZhEcrHasRcbzAspTAXrW6hIbT-0VCxeOPVlvQPpPscGfQ/s1600/DSC_6688e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-TVAjQdrcp2RChnucocQ9btmzLNsTAvXykDuDL9j0Jq5xYbWsf1slzDhc4cuTpmc2ckahNVHPqw-eBCV63bj99-Wvys1Wb3CZhEcrHasRcbzAspTAXrW6hIbT-0VCxeOPVlvQPpPscGfQ/s320/DSC_6688e.jpg" height="320" width="196" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A painter at work</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The next day, however, was probably the best. The first half of the day was spent at what was probably my overall favorite heritage site visited on the trip, Bhaktapur Durbar Square. The town of Bhaktapur is about 15km or so east of Kathmandu, and the complex we spent the morning at was just a stunning display of centuries-old workmanship... temples, halls, intricate wood and stone carvings. Most of Bhakpatur's gems fell victim to a massive earthquake in 1934, but the surviving structures have done very well in the intervening decades. One pavilion of particular prurient interest was the "Kama Sutra Temple," although that's not its proper name. On each of 24 struts supporting the main roof, six to a side, various sexual poses are depicted, each naughtier and more graphic than the last. I'd consider it a personal victory to see a passel of hyper-conservative American women stumbling upon this temple and going into apoplectic fits of propriety, clutching their pearls and muttering about those heathen 17th-century sexual deviants.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh05vxPgUrrVlodkTfzFQV8gyi8JGodv6kOifnFzZ8U1-qFX9rfVvtXyVOK4XRvVApHm5JJ9XGrT5yo9T1-gkm9JGI4jiZ3bscU9418q7FdWVSzOHeEaaUJkSyyix7I5YzDCy4AVZdps_us/s1600/DSC_6631e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh05vxPgUrrVlodkTfzFQV8gyi8JGodv6kOifnFzZ8U1-qFX9rfVvtXyVOK4XRvVApHm5JJ9XGrT5yo9T1-gkm9JGI4jiZ3bscU9418q7FdWVSzOHeEaaUJkSyyix7I5YzDCy4AVZdps_us/s320/DSC_6631e.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the many impressive temples<br />
at Durbar Square</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But seriously, if you ever find yourself in Kathmandu, make a point of seeking out Bhaktapur. There are parts of it which weren't so enjoyable, overrun by tourist shops and the like, but apart from that, the whole of Bhaktapur is fantastic, including Durbar Square, and the amazing Potter's Square, which is run by farmers who make and sell scores of clay pots to supplement their meager incomes during lean agricultural times.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA2dG89yAKzziAuwsf1BNan0fPUYF1__syceKR1supXAhcCsscRYzmQznpP70n1nm61193FbH9zszVG9BIPGgVLh28YfqyHdxeiBVuf9HQViwK9jzAQrXrqgRwjxGmMlEbID2q7cMy4r9m/s1600/DSC_6649e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA2dG89yAKzziAuwsf1BNan0fPUYF1__syceKR1supXAhcCsscRYzmQznpP70n1nm61193FbH9zszVG9BIPGgVLh28YfqyHdxeiBVuf9HQViwK9jzAQrXrqgRwjxGmMlEbID2q7cMy4r9m/s320/DSC_6649e.jpg" height="320" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of several owls keeping a close<br />
eye on us as we made our way through<br />
the temples and buildings at Bhaktapur</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Memorably, we also sort of picked up two boys on our meandering way through Bhaktapur. They were both 13, but one, named Rasmundar, looked all of about 8 or 9. What was odd is that the young-looking one never asked for money or anything, either directly or indirectly. He just wanted to accompany us and show us things. He's actually the one who pointed out the owls nesting in the bricks that you see here. The other boy, Bikesh, not only looked older than 13 (and may well have been), he was also a bit more forward, asking me to buy him a dictionary to help him translate Nepalese to English. Well, this is a pretty common scam in poor countries. The unsuspecting tourist, thinking he's helping a deserving and eager-to-learn local child, is taken to a select bookstore, buys a grossly overpriced dictionary, then, as soon as the tourist leaves, the book is returned and the proceeds split between the child and the store owner. I didn't go along with the dictionary request, but in the end, I just gave all the remaining Nepalese Rupees I had in my wallet, plus a couple of RM5 notes, as well, to these two boys. It wasn't a lot – probably amounted to less than US$10-15 total – but they definitely appreciated it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpajBthAD8eQEuw7PSFPIsvjIkgCdQNziWV6sbABElO7SBrDgRyQgvlv2b9BUJWNj1AqaSO89r7EDEG1Nwv40_7I2fPHF_DFXS-nT0DZg-KHQpgl5ZFoTzg3exBP-K06BKd791FYOSJ4ST/s1600/DSC_6644e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpajBthAD8eQEuw7PSFPIsvjIkgCdQNziWV6sbABElO7SBrDgRyQgvlv2b9BUJWNj1AqaSO89r7EDEG1Nwv40_7I2fPHF_DFXS-nT0DZg-KHQpgl5ZFoTzg3exBP-K06BKd791FYOSJ4ST/s400/DSC_6644e.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rasmundar, one of the boys who latched<br />
onto our group at Bhaktapur</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvcHQ7qBQPmesrCt5oOsMHQmMFQpGwAj_DdMwXiEcVnhdPK0zL3Uw-c2xJ_jcnNUMVetGjB7YlPLxNM7r7oGCRlQguNyYlxDAmgkcIu_yiIGNaQFh8pyI0zlBGIBZX2zzEVZpmx9gj2iih/s1600/DSC_6678e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvcHQ7qBQPmesrCt5oOsMHQmMFQpGwAj_DdMwXiEcVnhdPK0zL3Uw-c2xJ_jcnNUMVetGjB7YlPLxNM7r7oGCRlQguNyYlxDAmgkcIu_yiIGNaQFh8pyI0zlBGIBZX2zzEVZpmx9gj2iih/s320/DSC_6678e.jpg" height="292" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bikesh telling us something about the building here</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
So I'll stop here and throw some photos in, then will write part two for the next entry. "Nepal: The Sequel." That part will include more about Bhaktapur, stories of the food we sampled, and all the details of our foray into the foothills of the Himalayas. No, I did not scale Everest; no, I did not do any real trekking; and no, I did not see a yeti. I did, however, take about 400 photos during my short time in Nepal, but of course, only a fraction are really good, and even fewer are suitable for the blog, but I'll put in as many as I can! Stay tuned...<br />
<div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsXyygjw4Z4wezbZVKpNhoDSr4u9SABKAzq9_Il-Cfx3Xq2gC2_itvwciK21FvxObQhyphenhyphenIgKi_VRJ5z0wCqjX9KCLV3VuezqY6NqcPb908PmeXXzxA19dud9hdiDlo7Gn_jEERKgx0LbJxf/s1600/DSC_6576e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsXyygjw4Z4wezbZVKpNhoDSr4u9SABKAzq9_Il-Cfx3Xq2gC2_itvwciK21FvxObQhyphenhyphenIgKi_VRJ5z0wCqjX9KCLV3VuezqY6NqcPb908PmeXXzxA19dud9hdiDlo7Gn_jEERKgx0LbJxf/s400/DSC_6576e.jpg" height="202" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street scene from the east side of Kathmandu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7qrRbWXc15MlY7up9LCDpYJvoEgBaVgLfW8seUIJ45A4t0VngE-4u-84Py20OINJXtZgdYCOhF83MtaYdJPwlrSsGoIn0Xf-jW9tbGTTcE3-uqpBuN0q886CoRF4Ypt4pEnffsf5WKWCK/s1600/DSC_6489e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7qrRbWXc15MlY7up9LCDpYJvoEgBaVgLfW8seUIJ45A4t0VngE-4u-84Py20OINJXtZgdYCOhF83MtaYdJPwlrSsGoIn0Xf-jW9tbGTTcE3-uqpBuN0q886CoRF4Ypt4pEnffsf5WKWCK/s400/DSC_6489e.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An elderly Nepalese woman in a<br />
pensive moment near the Bagmati River</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEfGnwGX6OJ75isBjBSmilSM-q2wE9FoMRcq9WqNzw38eVNnhscJjHFqbLorMO-nL9QA3nxmCy2RamAdfk2WzHHhhMPpkeqKfcmJdVaCHb-y78BmOO_CdQNnisTb2Ebm0lxRWhnv3ehCeh/s1600/DSC_6478e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEfGnwGX6OJ75isBjBSmilSM-q2wE9FoMRcq9WqNzw38eVNnhscJjHFqbLorMO-nL9QA3nxmCy2RamAdfk2WzHHhhMPpkeqKfcmJdVaCHb-y78BmOO_CdQNnisTb2Ebm0lxRWhnv3ehCeh/s400/DSC_6478e.jpg" height="400" width="268" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An elaborately carved door at the complex of<br />
Pashupatinath temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiRvHblTxINU30r92h-DRPsOk0pdggkHsDabTbHtGGsrMzIzl0DPPAg74IR5vnpdGYAs1Bc-eBjPupmrybT7z4zFJM1BfZsv5NtfT_C7a19o0iHO2e4QLt_iDH6UuYQhLncJj4Sv0IRHmf/s1600/DSC_6623e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiRvHblTxINU30r92h-DRPsOk0pdggkHsDabTbHtGGsrMzIzl0DPPAg74IR5vnpdGYAs1Bc-eBjPupmrybT7z4zFJM1BfZsv5NtfT_C7a19o0iHO2e4QLt_iDH6UuYQhLncJj4Sv0IRHmf/s400/DSC_6623e.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nothing really extraordinary about this photo,<br />
taken near Pashupatinath; <br />
I just liked the colors and composition :)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzLUDwHWGGou_0jhdrrjAUWlcG17RkfwMY3vhjnAXYrQLxdF-z1uvuw4M519vghktWsqaFpob6RYNJYZH6imtEQr2LDMMCn9RTrREPd7-HiDpcT40Q2fHJdXrE3TBMktd8LUJVjz89DWS-/s1600/DSC_6465e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzLUDwHWGGou_0jhdrrjAUWlcG17RkfwMY3vhjnAXYrQLxdF-z1uvuw4M519vghktWsqaFpob6RYNJYZH6imtEQr2LDMMCn9RTrREPd7-HiDpcT40Q2fHJdXrE3TBMktd8LUJVjz89DWS-/s400/DSC_6465e.jpg" height="317" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A devotee at Pashupatinath temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioUIhAzdAPtNGEYv3RJqY6gbQsuhvFRMrllp33Sh1WQo3TjDzhCAYcc82Bwme1nHKn__QndBmaZd91ICSrrxHfRVl6UUhLdftgb9gBSArZSwAHL3wyaDXBPiWXuEMAw7S399dWHMCTL4PH/s1600/DSC_6527e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioUIhAzdAPtNGEYv3RJqY6gbQsuhvFRMrllp33Sh1WQo3TjDzhCAYcc82Bwme1nHKn__QndBmaZd91ICSrrxHfRVl6UUhLdftgb9gBSArZSwAHL3wyaDXBPiWXuEMAw7S399dWHMCTL4PH/s400/DSC_6527e.jpg" height="400" width="288" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A shopkeeper takes a break beneath the intricately<br />
carved woodwork adorning the windows of a gift shop<br />
at Boudhanath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0qpyWB_fEjeMOzW1aEi7gMkEkin9XpsRRRRPtZJA9phJ3Na6auAy77vzcAw0q0ceiXwgR5WLhlBto9GupHFD573Nb9ab0IWTMzOIuzCLtkvgXMlu13avOSHGQiiOy4svzIcL1A7WksXE7/s1600/DSC_6528e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0qpyWB_fEjeMOzW1aEi7gMkEkin9XpsRRRRPtZJA9phJ3Na6auAy77vzcAw0q0ceiXwgR5WLhlBto9GupHFD573Nb9ab0IWTMzOIuzCLtkvgXMlu13avOSHGQiiOy4svzIcL1A7WksXE7/s400/DSC_6528e.jpg" height="331" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A snapshot of the circle around the stupa at Boudhanath;<br />
this place had such a great feel to it – really an enjoyable visit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYCtiEedEJc8fUdWJWafFKTsirt84Mstq4Bsn0VjqHrxut2InpMMgRDNX2_SYDY_j58NAZN1HKCTSWcgRPVu8GOo7Axmebx6Led2MG-5oIYIZ_fy9RP-jpfKkjH2xU6XN9Go9pun70mkpJ/s1600/DSC_6517e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYCtiEedEJc8fUdWJWafFKTsirt84Mstq4Bsn0VjqHrxut2InpMMgRDNX2_SYDY_j58NAZN1HKCTSWcgRPVu8GOo7Axmebx6Led2MG-5oIYIZ_fy9RP-jpfKkjH2xU6XN9Go9pun70mkpJ/s400/DSC_6517e.jpg" height="400" width="282" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Tibetan monk standing outside an ornate building –<br />
I think it was a guesthouse – at Boudhanath</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTCIKEbobkXu0fFqvuShSR5QURTjwq2bDRH_5MyGQDNOQ9PYMO5yM5aqpmoVGt-dEBG4RbqQ1fnNxq1g57D8wn3y1aEsEHDsLNDCKC_V4ytRlUPGWpiJkzoL36Z6v9owqQOzQro_odMAwn/s1600/DSC_6694e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTCIKEbobkXu0fFqvuShSR5QURTjwq2bDRH_5MyGQDNOQ9PYMO5yM5aqpmoVGt-dEBG4RbqQ1fnNxq1g57D8wn3y1aEsEHDsLNDCKC_V4ytRlUPGWpiJkzoL36Z6v9owqQOzQro_odMAwn/s400/DSC_6694e.jpg" height="235" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Potter's Square at Bhaktapur</td></tr>
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<a href="http://chadinkl.blogspot.com/2013_02_01_archive.html" target="_blank">Click here</a> to read part 2 of the Nepal entry. :)<br />
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Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-9996403381933152892012-07-23T04:35:00.001-06:002012-07-30T23:46:13.316-06:00Another massacre in America: When will enough be enough?A couple of days ago, a young man walked into a crowded movie theater in my hometown – a theater in which I have personally sat, I might add – and, with an arsenal of semiautomatic weapons and a mind-boggling 6,000 rounds of ammo, all purchased easily and legally, opened fire.
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Within moments, 70 innocent moviegoers had been shot, 12 of them fatally. If that grim toll holds (as several of the victims are still in critical condition as of this writing), the really awful thing is that this massacre won't even be Colorado's deadliest. In April 1999, 13 were killed in the infamous Columbine school shooting.</div>
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In the intervening 13 years between that deadly day at Columbine and this weekend's rampage just 15 miles away, the United States has averaged roughly 20 mass shootings... <i>per year</i>. In 2012 alone, prior to the Aurora movie theater massacre, the number of homicides as a result of mass shootings stood at 50. In July 2012 alone, the Colorado incident is the <i>sixth </i>mass shooting in the country. If those stats don't make your head spin, try this one: The United States has a gun murder rate that is TWENTY TIMES higher than the next 22 richest countries in the world.</div>
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<b>Combined.</b></div>
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Let that truly sink in: Our gun murder rate is 20 times higher than the world's next 22 richest countries combined.</div>
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So these jaw-dropping statistics naturally beg the question: what is wrong with the United States? My friends here in Malaysia (not only Malaysians, but my colleagues who hail from several other countries, as well) sure are curious to know why the "land of the free and home of the brave" is such a savage, violent country. After all, how many mass shootings have there been in Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, Singapore, Tokyo, Taipei, Seoul, and hell, let's even throw in Shanghai and Beijing in there, too? In the same 13-year period in which America has averaged 20 mass shootings per year (260 total, and counting), the combined total of mass shootings in these cities is zero. Why? It's not a question of population – these are by far some of the most populous and/or densely populated cities on Earth. It's not a psychological issue. Any time you have 30 million people, statistically you are going to have some sociopaths and psychopaths in the mix. It's inevitable. The difference is guns.</div>
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So all I can tell my non-American friends when they wonder aloud why my country is so backwards when it comes to guns and gun violence is that the worst-written, least-comprehensible, and, by far, the most damaging part of the entire US Constitution is to blame: the Second Amendment. Let's face it, from any neutral standpoint, the text of the amendment is not very clear, which is why the thing has gone to the Supreme Court for clarification on more than one occasion. The price for those ill-chosen 27 words has been the blood of more Americans than can be counted. Two days ago, 12 more were added to the list. The 27 words? Though the original and ultimately ratified/certified versions differ very slightly in some punctuation and capitalization, the two version are equally incoherent and read as such:</div>
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<b>"A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed."</b></blockquote>
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To me, as a grammarian and editor, the prefatory clause (the first part) sets a condition for the operative clause (the second part), and names the militia as a subset of "the people." This means that when the people are part of a militia which is necessary to the security of the state, their right to own guns is absolute. The United States has a formal, proper military now; we do not have standing militias as they did in the late 1700s. The whole point of the Second Amendment was to ensure that the fledgling Americans would be armed and could be assembled into a militia in the event of an invasion or a British incursion. No rational person would say the Framers intended the Amendment to mean that any citizen could stockpile a massive cache of automatic weapons and handguns. There were no such things in the 18th century! Moreover, I find the phrasing to be actually a bit of an oxymoron. It stipulates that the militia be "well-regulated," yet goes on to say that the rights "shall not be infringed." Well, nearly by definition, <i>any </i>regulation is going to be some sort of infringement. So I think the whole thing is fraught with problems. However, the Supreme Court, indeed the same Court that awarded George Bush the presidency in 2000 even though he lost the vote, and then sold out our entire political system to cash-flush corporations with their disastrous Citizens United decision in 2008, has upheld that this text somehow means the average beer-guzzling citizen or antisocial grad school dropout has the unassailable right to quite legally buy up huge stockpiles of semiautomatic weapons, order thousands of rounds of ammo online, and even purchase police-grade body armor and bulletproof vests. That's apparently what the Second Amendment means, and as a result, innocent Americans pay the price in blood, every year, every month, every day. It should be noted, however, that in the landmark Supreme Court case that apparently settled this once and for all, <i>District of Columbia v. Heller (2008)</i>, four of the Justices shared my opinion in their rather strong statements of dissent. However, five justices felt differently, and thus the decision was rendered.</div>
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A bit of background: I grew up, literally, shooting guns. Shotguns, rifles, revolvers, pistols... if it's a relatively common firearm type, chances are better than average I've held it and fired it. I've still got a scar between my thumb and forefinger from popping off a few rounds with a .44 magnum, a weapon whose recoil I was, as a skinny 12-year-old boy, wildly ill-equipped to handle. I have personally owned a 9mm Ruger semiautomatic pistol and have spent many enjoyable hours at the shooting range, followed by the methodical enjoyment of disassembling and cleaning the weapon. So I don't hate guns. I'm not an irrational anti-gun zealot. I understand the fascination. The power. The realization that you can hold in your hand a tool with which you can, in very short order, end a human life (or hey, 12 of them) from a substantial distance. The fact that wielding such power carries with it no requirement for any sort of discipline or time-consuming training is a big part of the problem with guns. So though I'm not completely neutral and without opinion in the scheme of things, I am not a passionate anti-gun nut, either. I have spent a large chunk of my life with guns and managed to not shoot anyone, or to get shot myself.</div>
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But the United States, for reasons surpassing understanding, has evolved into a society in which two things are very true, and they are, I would argue, wholly incontrovertible, irrespective of where your opinion falls on the gun debate spectrum:<br />
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1.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>Violence is glorified.</b> Everywhere you look – movies, television, sporting events, hell, even YouTube these days, Americans worship at the altar of violence. Oh we may ACT horrified, but when unspeakable acts of violence in a movie will merit only a PG-13 rating, and not only <i>not </i>drive away business, but increase it, while a 1/2-second flash of Janet Jackson's nipple during the Super Bowl causes a nationwide meltdown and Congressional hearings (literally), it seems pretty evident that we as a country not only have our priorities far out of whack, we are exquisitely enamored of violence.</blockquote>
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2.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>Guns are prolific, legal, and easily available.</b>When I bought my 9mm pistol, I did so at a freaking Wal-Mart not two miles from Columbine High School (though some years before the massacre there). No waiting period, no background check,I just filled out a couple of forms, took my shiny new gun, and out I went. I was 21 years old at the time, if memory serves, and even bought two boxes of ammo for good measure. Christ, I could have gone to my car, loaded up the gun, and gone right back in the store and robbed it. Now, in truth, gun purchasing HAS tightened up a little, and Wal-Mart no longer even sells handguns, but sporting goods stores do. Gun shows do. (And the phrase "gun show loophole" certainly doesn't exist because there's <i>not </i>one.)</blockquote>
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So when you take into account these two truths – that we glorify violence as a society, and we that have made guns and ammo astonishingly easy to purchase and own – what happened in Aurora cannot seriously be seen as surprising or shocking in any way.</div>
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So we'll go through the pathetically familiar motions once again. We'll all wring our hands, moan "what a world, what a world," we'll have our meaningless candlelight vigils, local florists will reap the bounty as scores of useless bouquets will be scattered at the murder site, people will flock to churches seeking solace and answers, we'll fill up news comments forums for a few days with tens of thousands of diatribes, a million "thoughts and prayers go out to..." tweets and Facebook posts will litter the digital realm (something that <i>didn't </i>happen after Columbine), and people may even get a little action going towards a real gun control conversation. But we all know what will happen, and frankly, I think the NRA and their like-minded supporters actually count on it: People will move on. They'll forget and newer things in the 24-hour news cycle will bubble to the surface. The dead in the Aurora shooting won't even have been buried by the time this is no longer in the headlines or the national conversation. If anyone tries to make it an issue, particularly in an election year, they'll be chastised for trying to politicize a tragedy. Well, if after yet another senseless gun rampage <i>isn't </i>the time to make it a political issue, when would be? Why is it that we as Americans permit this insanity to continue? Does anyone really think that this latest mass shooting will be the last? Or really even the last this year?</div>
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When will it be enough?</div>
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If you live in America (and haven't yet been gunned down), you've doubtlessly heard some of the gun lobby's talking points because they are repeated like clockwork after every mass shooting that takes place. But let's really consider them logically, rather than emotionally:</div>
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1.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> <b>"</b></span><b>If guns are outlawed, only outlaws will have guns."</b> This is a great catchphrase. It's short, it's linguistically symmetrical and reciprocal, and it fits really nicely on a bumper sticker. Only problem is – and this is the case with most bumper sticker philosophies – it's not entirely true. Let's take a look: There are numerous countries in the world in which guns are outlawed. And unsurprisingly, they don't have a big problem with gun violence. For some reason that defies easy explanation, many Americans fail to equate gun violence with guns. Now, advocates will point to the massacre in Norway last year by the right-wing militant Christian, Anders Behring Breivikas, as a prime example. "Guns are illegal there," they'll say, "and Breivikas was still able to get guns and kill 77 people." A true statement indeed, but this massacre was extraordinarily uncommon not only in Norway, but in the whole of Western Europe. Mass shootings are not an ongoing problem in Norway. Gun violence is not an ongoing problem in Norway. This incident stood out because it was so rare. Mass shootings happen so frequently in the US, we can't even remember exactly when the last one was. Admittedly, if we suddenly banned handguns (which is what I favor, not the abolition of ALL guns), there might be a period in which "only outlaws" would have them, but in the long run, it would obviously and logically curtail handgun violence as the number of guns in society dropped. There are ways to manage the stepping down of firearms in the US, but we have to first have a rational discussion about it for that to ever happen.</blockquote>
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2.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> <b>"</b></span><b>If there had been an armed citizen in the crowd, that could have stopped this massacre."</b> There is actually some truth to this, but it's highly conjectural and <i>extremely </i>conditional. Though every situation is different, let's consider this one. A darkened movie theater in which the shooter enters, and throws smoke and gas canisters. The shooter is prepared for this, and is wearing full body armor, including a neck and groin protector, a bulletproof vest, and a flak jacket. He is also shooting randomly and indiscriminately, not caring who his target is. An armed citizen, who is not trained for tactical or combat situations, would have to extricate his weapon, determine exactly who the shooter is – and where – and in a chaotic, darkened, smoke-filled theater full of running, screaming, diving, pushing people, aim at the shooter from a distance (a difficult task at the best of times) with a small handgun that's ill-suited for precision aiming in the first place, and fire, hope his aim is true, and that he doesn't hit any innocent people instead. And if, somehow, all that actually takes place, and by some amazing series of events, the armed civilian manages to overcome the formidable tactical odds and find his mark... well, sorry, it doesn't really matter because the shooter is clad in body armor anyway. Game over.</blockquote>
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Another valid point is that even if a person who is legally carrying a gun has a good reason to use it, there can be civil and criminal liabilities. If the civilian shoots an innocent bystander, even by mistake, that law-abiding citizen is subject to criminal and/or civil liability. In most jurisdictions, even whipping out a gun and pointing it at someone constitutes felony assault. Now, many states would bar lawsuits in a situation like this, but it could still get very messy and ugly as anyone whose been dragged through the legal system can attest.</blockquote>
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And more to the point, irrespective of whether laws protect a concealed weapon carrier, or whether a theater is a "gun-free zone" or not (some states allow private businesses to post signs barring concealed weapons; Colorado law has no such provision), the point is there are no security points, there's not a pat-down, there's not a metal detector. (And really, do we want there to be? Is that the sort of society we want to become?) Colorado has among the more liberal concealed-carry laws in the nation, so in a theater with hundreds of people, surely some otherwise law-abiding gun wielder <i>could </i>have still walked in easily with his or her concealed handgun. But no one did. Over and over again, gun advocates say, "Well if someone had been carrying a gun, they could have stopped it!" without looking at what the bigger picture says to us. In a crowd of hundreds, if no one is carrying a concealed weapon, doesn't that really speak to what we as a society want? Doesn't it at least suggest that maybe people don't want to live in a town where everyone is packing heat? Statistics show that perhaps only as many as 25% of Americans own a gun of any kind. Simple math tells us that that means 75% of Americans don't own guns. That's a very strong majority. And yet, the bloody toll continues unabated. Why? First, the Institute for Legislative Action, the benignly named lobbying arm of the NRA, is consistently ranked the most powerful lobbying group in the country, and some of our lawmakers apparently have no compunctions about accepting blood money to keep those pesky common-sense gun control laws at bay. And second, there are those oddly phrased 27 words in the Second Amendment which, when coupled with our national preoccupation with violence, ensure that more shooting sprees will occur.</blockquote>
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3.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> <b>"</b></span><b>If he had no access to guns, he'd have found another way."</b> Okay, I can logically deconstruct the other arguments because there is at least an apparent semblance of merit to them, though easily debunked with analysis. This one, however, doesn't even rise to that level. This one is just ridiculous. I offer up Malaysia as an example of this. The current population here is roughly 29 million. Now, statistically, with that many people, you're certainly going to have more than a few malcontents. Probably some sociopaths, and almost surely a few genuine psychopaths in the mix. It's statistically inevitable. How many mass shootings have occurred in Malaysia in the last 13 years? Pretty easy to count: zero. (In that time, remember, America has logged over 250 mass shootings.) So according to this "argument," there should have been a relatively equal rate of mass murders utilizing bombs, knives, grenades, or durian fruits. Of course there haven't been. Look at Japan with its population of 90 million. Same story. Guns, particularly when they're easy to acquire, demand no expertise or proficiency to carry out their deadly role. Point and pull trigger.</blockquote>
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To those suggesting that, in a country devoid of semiautomatic weapons, this guy would have just found another means, please do even a bit of cursory research. Building a bomb that could kill or maim 70 people in a large movie theater certainly isn't impossible, but it isn't easy at all. That's why most homemade bombs fail. Remember Columbine? The killers set homemade propane tank bombs in the school's cafeteria, all of which failed. Remember the would-be underwear bomber? His bomb failed because of the fuse. Time and again, we see that building a lethal, functional bomb isn't as easy as gun advocates would have you think. Consider this analogy: If you have two depressed people living in two different house, and all other factors are equal, which would you presume would be more likely to commit (or attempt) suicide, the one living in a house with fifteen bottles of various sleeping pills and painkillers, or the one living in a house with nothing stronger than a bottle of aspirin? Ease of access makes a difference. Sure, either of them could fashion a noose and find a way to get the job done, but a handful of sleeping pills is much easier, much less messy. It's the same with guns. They're easy to get, require no special skill to use, and allow you to kill easily from a distance. No need for hand-to-hand combat, no need to get your hands all bloody, no need to see your victims up close and personal – as fellow human beings – as you claim their lives. Just stand back and pull a trigger. And we see this scenario played out over and over and over and OVER again.</blockquote>
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4.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> <b>"</b></span><b>We have to have armed citizens to keep our government in line." </b>This one is the biggest cockamamie joke of them all. I'm sorry, but if the United States government, with the full might of its considerable military, decreed that citizens were no longer permitted to keep and bear arms, I assure you that your little collection of pop guns (when compared to their vastly superior firepower) wouldn't really cause more than a moment's disruption to their meeting that goal. There are scores of stable, healthy, prosperous countries whose governments are performing quite nicely without packs of armed citizens roaming the land.</blockquote>
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So again, the question must be asked: <i>When will it be enough? </i>When will Americans of conscience grow sufficiently tired of their fellow citizens and their children being gunned down senselessly? What will it take for politicians to eschew the NRA's cash and lobbying efforts and take a stand on real gun control? Yes, I'm aware of the Second Amendment and the Supreme Court's ruling on its meaning. But the US Constitution is a living document and is built to be changed. And the Supreme Court has, on occasion, overruled its own previous decisions. Would any of this be easy to do? Of course not. But since 75% of Americans, who are ostensibly both the governed <i>and </i>the government, do not own guns, it's reasonable to suggest that at least making an effort to get handguns out of our society would be a logical, worthwhile approach, even if its full benefits wouldn't be seen for two or three more generations.</div>
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I gave up my 9mm pistol years ago. I'll likely never fire another handgun, and my life isn't any poorer for it. Not owning guns doesn't make me less of a man, and it doesn't decrease my lifespan or impair my enjoyment of my life. It simply isn't worth the blood cost to my fellow Americans for me to enjoy a few rounds of target shooting at the range. And even here in Malaysia, a country in which guns <i>are </i>banned, people can still go and shoot at a target range, anyway. Want to defend your home? I promise you, a shotgun is a far more effective weapon than a .38 revolver. Want to go hunting? Pistols are not reasonable tools for hunting, which is why hunters overwhelmingly use rifles, shotguns, and crossbows. So my proposal would be to continue allowing long guns – that is to say, rifles and shotguns – but to institute a ban on handguns and any sort of "assault" weapon (and do take note that they're not called "defense rifles," but rather "assault rifles"). We put a man on the moon; I'm sure we can figure out a way to rid our society of the proliferation of handguns that currently exists. Unfortunately, it's hard to even start the discussion because the NRA and the people that organization inspires stand firmly against <i>any </i>legislation that would curtail "gun rights." That means they oppose any sort of gun control. They would rather the bloodshed continue unabated as long as they can continue to legally own their .45 automatic. That's one side. And on the other extreme are the anti-gun zealots who want to see every gun, every bullet, and every NRA sticker go into a giant smelter. So it's hard to get anything accomplished when you get these two groups together.</div>
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So why don't the rest of us take the lead? The vast majority of Americans are not gun-toting, gun-loving NRA members, and I'd guess that the vast majority also respect the Constitution and don't necessarily want to see every firearm eradicated from America. Most of us are somewhere in the middle, and there are an awful lot of us. I can't imagine that anyone truly <i>wants </i>this sort of wanton bloodshed to continue. A six-year-old girl was among the many fatalities at that theater. A nine-year-old girl was among the six who were killed in the Congresswoman Giffords assassination attempt. Surely no American wants to see innocent children continuing to be shot and killed in our schools, our malls, our movie theaters, our restaurants.</div>
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Haven't we had enough? If not, then when will that day come, and how many more will have to die?</div>
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<i>Note: Permission is freely granted to resend or reprint this blog entry (and this entry exclusively), in part or in whole, as long as credit is given to the author and/or the blog site. Comments are also welcomed, but bear in mind, this is my personal blog, not a public square, so be nice! If your comment is rude, profane, or abusive, it will never even appear on the site. Disagreement and discussion is encouraged, but it must be civil. I've seen the comments sections of too many news articles to know how quickly these things can devolve. Thank you!</i></div>
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<br />Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-54811720359139140512012-07-08T09:59:00.004-06:002012-07-08T10:45:54.610-06:00Hiking MalaysiaWell, once again, it's been forever... here's a post I started months ago, and I'll segue into more up-to-date stuff later on...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Into the forest. As usual, these photos<br />
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I've not attempted anything here remotely as arduous as some of the hiking I've done in Colorado. There, you have altitude, thin air, highly variable terrain with considerable elevation gain, and all sorts of potential weather issues to contend with, along with the possibility of black bears or mountain lions (I've been lucky in that respect). Here, it's mostly just heat and humidity... and maybe a random leech if you're in the jungle. So I've not done anything that avid hikers would call actual <i>hiking</i>, but rather more like walking around in fairly sedate forests not too terribly far from the comforts of the city. But that was simply too much text to fit into the title of the post, so cut me some slack.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHE0CcXdjwPK-_e8Tak_eRIKMVP8WAMjO-T8K8qDbBEjTJmFP8YudPoFd7ADSYN-DLibfeiN_hisGKwXLcrOmJKUvGAnIEopuEBqJacaXzCuVhG5tfKliqasbnMtILcj3fEl5J0yojdGjd/s1600/DSC_3425e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHE0CcXdjwPK-_e8Tak_eRIKMVP8WAMjO-T8K8qDbBEjTJmFP8YudPoFd7ADSYN-DLibfeiN_hisGKwXLcrOmJKUvGAnIEopuEBqJacaXzCuVhG5tfKliqasbnMtILcj3fEl5J0yojdGjd/s320/DSC_3425e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the waterfall's cascade, glimpsed from the trail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Having been to the Forest Research site (FRIM) a few times already, this time my friends and I decided to check out a place called Kanching Recreational Forest, not too far from the city, up between the small towns of Selayang and Rawang, somewhat north of KL proper. It's a fairly small site, and its primary feature is a huge seven-tier waterfall that cascades through the forest, collecting in pools at various spots along its descent. It has, regrettably, almost a sideshow feel to it as you drive up. The place is tremendously popular with locals, and, as such, stalls selling everything from local foods and snacks to stuffed animals and sunglasses have cropped up at the entrance. There was even a display of various parrots and other birds with which you could be photographed for a fairly outrageous RM10 cost.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl66tkUoIMvG81yUL6yseGp9sfmyQjjRJ2l4bxDs2YKm4WVfdp8cZfVzIZFpIQ0omGWEM2pPi83BNDW63K5MN3qTwzihHauLOYtlAAjaTcwCbWtKN5lmOiuZlq9naR5v8bgBhg7pZWcyKO/s1600/DSC_3475e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl66tkUoIMvG81yUL6yseGp9sfmyQjjRJ2l4bxDs2YKm4WVfdp8cZfVzIZFpIQ0omGWEM2pPi83BNDW63K5MN3qTwzihHauLOYtlAAjaTcwCbWtKN5lmOiuZlq9naR5v8bgBhg7pZWcyKO/s320/DSC_3475e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A small sample of the hordes of people at each and every<br />
pool of the waterfall's multiple tiers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Even more lamentable than the carnival-a-palooza atmosphere as you try to go hiking in a forest was the unbelievable quantity of litter left behind by picnicking Malaysians. It was absolutely appalling, and I've actually talked to locals here who've seen it and are frankly embarrassed by it. Hordes of day-tripping locals descend on the tiered waterfall, have big family BBQs, enjoy each other's company, relax in the cool of the forest, and delight in the pools of water... and then they leave about half their crap behind, from the looks of it. At times, I had to strategically re-frame my photos to exclude the detritus cluttering up the otherwise beautiful scenery. I don't know who oversees and manages this place, but a clean-up effort would be well-advised, along with a few "Please do not litter" signs, and a couple of large rubbish bins at each of the waterfall pools.<br />
<br />
And oddly enough, my friends were literally the <i>only </i>Chinese folks there (and naturally, I was the only white guy). I asked about this — why in this verdant natural setting, were there only throngs of Malays present — and was only somewhat jokingly told that the Chinese really don't "do" the great outdoors, what with its lack of air conditioning and branded goods shops. Ha ha ha. Oh well, at least the malls stay full.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMZwqq843TOjvowmCqtA_Fr0lrQ6c6Rr289KMrQaVZ-1JCQl3ljmNT1MRCAE2Pf9OhStbKJHyd74Nc6AipaHFfgKsBfq9VA6dcmx_pxhLvlgBofjom5p4h9OERXPZNsOXSECxPuncqBpRZ/s1600/DSC_3477e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMZwqq843TOjvowmCqtA_Fr0lrQ6c6Rr289KMrQaVZ-1JCQl3ljmNT1MRCAE2Pf9OhStbKJHyd74Nc6AipaHFfgKsBfq9VA6dcmx_pxhLvlgBofjom5p4h9OERXPZNsOXSECxPuncqBpRZ/s320/DSC_3477e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Malaysia's assault on Western foods doesn't stop<br />
with <a href="http://chadinkl.blogspot.com/2010/06/its-just-not-right.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #741b47;">pizza</span></a>... <i>roti aiskrim</i> manages to offend both hot dogs<br />
and ice cream simultaneously</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But probably the most horrific experience at Kanching was saved for the end. We were leaving and one of my friends kept pestering me to try this foul creation known as <i>roti aiskrim</i>, which is easy enough for anyone to translate: ice cream bread. Seriously, what the hell? It's nothing at all more than a hot dog bun, split open, with like four little scoops of different flavors of ice cream inside. It's awful in theory, and it's equally crappy in actual practice. But apparently, for Malaysians (at least some of them), it's evocative of fond childhood memories, so even though I tried fruitlessly to insist that I really, really, <i>really</i> did not want this "treat," it was foisted upon me nevertheless. I ate a couple of bites and yes, it was every bit as awful as you'd think. Ice cream in a hot dog bun: it was never going to end well. And not even real ice cream, mind you. It's the local version, which admittedly isn't awful (when it's the right flavor and not served in a bun), and the texture is great, but it's made with palm oil, not milk and certainly not cream. I don't think ANY cows were involved or even consulted in the making of this particular type of ice cream, which really should be legally barred from using the word "cream" in its moniker. But yeah, this was four scoops of palm oil-based ice cream in colors never intended by nature, once again, <i>in a hot dog bun</i>. At least this wasn't the deep-fried version, <i>roti aiskrim goreng</i>. In any event, two bites was enough, and the rest went to a scraggly monkey, who may or may not have polished off the rest after scampering up a nearby tree with the proffered dessert facsimile.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH1mq57yxCnEad3a2klq8nrr7GNzOVzASbQOOv6hyACdEjW0u_6Oi1jBjF8AVh3UW4KqPIIwudsok3sTjalg4eXt2N29dJrQf3pCm1-11FgLvs6uZzFTO-F_0d0VuDeCDJeor_2z_7QP_2/s1600/DSC_3511e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH1mq57yxCnEad3a2klq8nrr7GNzOVzASbQOOv6hyACdEjW0u_6Oi1jBjF8AVh3UW4KqPIIwudsok3sTjalg4eXt2N29dJrQf3pCm1-11FgLvs6uZzFTO-F_0d0VuDeCDJeor_2z_7QP_2/s320/DSC_3511e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking along the wide paths through secondary<br />
forest at Kuala Selangor Nature Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdDP2feCpC_sA6DT2UQs0Wl_eDxxu4jZiSnomc1xbUlz1VeQSkxs0nuCjPP7rHPhBLocxv9ahxt_f6ocYBtOLWS0g9bPpXpb_5HSYYxZDcoJPptoZoFZvanSfFbfMvd7Z4gdL1XAXx-qe/s1600/DSC_3517e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdDP2feCpC_sA6DT2UQs0Wl_eDxxu4jZiSnomc1xbUlz1VeQSkxs0nuCjPP7rHPhBLocxv9ahxt_f6ocYBtOLWS0g9bPpXpb_5HSYYxZDcoJPptoZoFZvanSfFbfMvd7Z4gdL1XAXx-qe/s320/DSC_3517e.jpg" width="312" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A pair of great egrets (<i>Birdicus longneckus</i>) spy<br />
each other; tawdry romance ensues</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A couple of weeks later, an entirely different experience was to be had. This time, we headed out to Kuala Selangor and visited the marvelous nature park there, a 2.4-sq km preserve with three distinct ecosystems that has become a sanctuary for numerous species (over 150) of resident and migratory birds, as well as at least two species of monkeys, some small mammals such as otters, and larger reptiles such as the monitor lizard. Also, a very happy home for innumerable legions of mosquitoes, so be forewarned and slather on the repellent before hiking here. The Park encompasses the estuary of the Selangor River as it empties into the Straits of Malacca, and along the coastline can be found thick mangrove forests, which give way to mudflats (and we saw some huge mudskippers, too), grassy swamps, and ultimately secondary forest. Hiking trails are really well-maintained (the Park is under the auspices of the Malaysian Nature Society, an admirable organization) and the entrance fees are wonderfully cheap, only RM4. It's a great place to spend a day and feel like you've been transported to another world far, far from from the urban chaos of KL. At night, the primary draw is the spectacular fireflies that congregate along the banks of the Selangor River; the members of this particular species synchronize their flashing, so that hundreds and hundreds of the insects light up simultaneously in the otherwise pitch black of the evening.<br />
<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0pBgsApktrg1enYpvrf0MG-junvsiRwst9ZRZWfUDEBnngdPtsdMChDv10va2gSWOARlJ15RJEYA3jwg76M0BZAFllCapa9ZndP9gzJeh5ZlPTfWFo2SuumFP_9zpkQ4pcFyHf9ym4zP8/s1600/DSC_3524e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0pBgsApktrg1enYpvrf0MG-junvsiRwst9ZRZWfUDEBnngdPtsdMChDv10va2gSWOARlJ15RJEYA3jwg76M0BZAFllCapa9ZndP9gzJeh5ZlPTfWFo2SuumFP_9zpkQ4pcFyHf9ym4zP8/s320/DSC_3524e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A grey heron skulking around in the verge,<br />
miserably awaiting his own tawdry romance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So although, to be very honest, Malaysia doesn't put even remotely near the emphasis on outdoor recreation that my home state of Colorado does, there are still some nice places to be found, and I hope I can stumble across a few more. One day, I want to visit the crown jewel of outdoor excursions in this country, the 130-million-year-old primary tropical rainforest of Taman Negara, Malaysia's 4,300-sq km national park.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN3EJyMFuCzBFR5hbZcNd-UZ9jAM7tGRqCOuD5XTzyPy0K9wYL3JxXSzQVErGTLZOAtMQ9T1dHdX1CBP9m_ZN-arBHN-pjg24-ehKL4QemYaZhYX1Fxj9ovwuQDT-cOE6PPAtBn0DRuJwa/s1600/DSC_3525e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN3EJyMFuCzBFR5hbZcNd-UZ9jAM7tGRqCOuD5XTzyPy0K9wYL3JxXSzQVErGTLZOAtMQ9T1dHdX1CBP9m_ZN-arBHN-pjg24-ehKL4QemYaZhYX1Fxj9ovwuQDT-cOE6PPAtBn0DRuJwa/s320/DSC_3525e.jpg" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This walkway lets you walk through<br />
the mangrove swamps and keep your<br />
shoes clean</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A big part of why I haven't been writing much here lately is that I've been doing it for a living elsewhere. I took a job about three months ago as the group editor for a company that publishes a hefty number of magazines in Malaysia, and to say that it's kept me busy is a gross understatement. I do get to write a bit in the job, but a lot more of the work is managerial and, naturally, editorial in nature. I've also taken another trip to Bali, two trips to Penang, and two trips to the amazing Tioman Island, which I think I may write about in the next entry. Coming soon is a trip to the Philippines – that should take place in August.<br />
<br />
In any event, apologies for the delay and will hope to have another entry a LOT sooner than this one.<br />
<br />
P.S. That scientific name in my photo caption above is just for a laugh, and perhaps an homage to the old Wile E. Coyote/Road Runner cartoons, the <i>roti aiskrim</i> of MY childhood nostalgia, so please, no ornithological flames, okay? In fact, I may well have even gotten the common name of the birds wrong!</div>Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-53190254308021726382012-01-22T02:17:00.000-07:002012-01-22T09:28:51.591-07:00Taking the Long Way Home<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtwD-IQzGDGoJQLbjEP5TJsHUkll4dArXR6Td-91rFSagHsYB86pHF7zwGFVrIbPfsCSUbULQsNbd9qo7Ohf0Ro9OaWuYrLuyVwtqHE-APn5fTfmeCD20whh9cU8XaD2xFk_HqYxWqs1Yj/s1600/CIMG4482.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtwD-IQzGDGoJQLbjEP5TJsHUkll4dArXR6Td-91rFSagHsYB86pHF7zwGFVrIbPfsCSUbULQsNbd9qo7Ohf0Ro9OaWuYrLuyVwtqHE-APn5fTfmeCD20whh9cU8XaD2xFk_HqYxWqs1Yj/s320/CIMG4482.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Despair at 35,000 feet... and this was the <i>good</i> meal!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
You know what they say about the best-laid plans. When I was booking the flights for my trip back to Colorado, I tried to plan everything out properly. I had the flight from Asia to L.A. handled, I just needed to book a flight to get me to Denver from there. Since virtually every airline in America now charges for checked bags, I chose the one airline remaining that lets you check two bags free, Southwest Airlines, thinking this would save me about $100-120. (The other airlines charge $25 for the first bag and $25-35 for the second — each way.) But for whatever reason, Southwest's final flight of the day from LAX to Denver was at 6:20 p.m., and my flight from Asia didn't land until 6:00 p.m., an impossible connection to make. So I booked the flight to Denver for 6:30 the next morning, thinking I'd either stay in the airport (boo!), visit my uncle out in the desert east of Los Angeles, or stay with a friend of mine from KL, who was possibly going to be in L.A. for business at that time (hey, free hotel room). Well... none of that came to pass, so I booked the hotel room at the Radisson while I was in Guangzhou, and that all seemed to be okay, even though it took a $60 bite out of whatever checked-baggage money I had saved by booking with Southwest. (Other airlines had later flights to Denver.)<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_jwDrpDky425Plt_my_rN45R6qQbxFZ33xJYZl8UR_R0467twOKxCPP3krcvNkPAgKlnQ8oj7BEY-VZoyxZO5CONHHKBfK1egkJTkRsDLq8kZfNeis0Ic3pu5wDJA-ZzYuMcSefMkHAy/s1600/IMG_0190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_jwDrpDky425Plt_my_rN45R6qQbxFZ33xJYZl8UR_R0467twOKxCPP3krcvNkPAgKlnQ8oj7BEY-VZoyxZO5CONHHKBfK1egkJTkRsDLq8kZfNeis0Ic3pu5wDJA-ZzYuMcSefMkHAy/s320/IMG_0190.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Things only went downhill from here...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So my uncle decided to make the two-hour drive to my hotel from his place, just so we could visit for a short while (at 3 a.m., mind you), and then volunteered to take me to the airport. However, the roads are not well-marked from the hotel, and we had to take a detour and track back to get to LAX, costing a few minutes. After I was dropped off at the curbside check-in place, there was a <i>massive </i>crowd of people waiting to check in for Southwest (at 5:30 a.m., no less!), and the line inside was even worse. So I stood in the line outside, wondering if I would make it at all. I did, but only barely, and apparently my bags didn't get checked in time, so they were tagged "LATE" like some absurd scarlet letter to announce to everyone what a crappy layabout of a traveler the owner of these bags is. So I got to Denver unscathed, and went to baggage claim where exactly one of my two checked bags made an appearance. The other had not made the flight with me, so it would be coming in on the next flight, which, fortunately, was only an hour later, so I just waited. So, coupled with the long flight, I had an overnight sojourn in L.A. and a delayed suitcase with a yellow-tag scolding from Southwest Airlines.<br />
<br />
This, quite grievously, was but a pale, dim harbinger of the misery to come on the journey back to KL.<br />
<br />
I already wrote about being stranded in L.A. for 24 hours, so let me continue on from there. Since the employees at Southwest who were there at the airport specifically told me that Southwest would reimburse me for my hotel expense, I got a room nearby, which I also wrote about. I think I made the best of that whole situation, and the time spent there watching the football game and relaxing before heading back to the airport was really not too bad. Once I got to LAX that evening though, I guess things started to unravel. I checked in and gave China Southern my bags some three hours before my flight left, so no problem there. I made my way through the awful security bottleneck at the International Terminal (a little over an hour) and to the gate. Though the Terminal 1 concourse there is actually pretty decent, the actual gates at LAX's International Terminal are dire. Sterile, bare, never enough seats... a truly woebegone farewell to departing passengers. So there I languished for another two hours, then got on the plane for the 15-hour flight back across the Pacific. The flight was <i>completely </i>full, always a nightmare on such an epic flight.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXmDc4is6d7oOqiU4e8NI744FhtCKFlNQrbW2tJxEsUeII4yyF61SPaY1mj19cAGP2Dng4WcxtVDp2sGN0dhUEnogrq-fRqInPLiFDeu90irFjMCJV7TOSzQQysZwokOpY9D4DLXYgndfa/s1600/IMG_0237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXmDc4is6d7oOqiU4e8NI744FhtCKFlNQrbW2tJxEsUeII4yyF61SPaY1mj19cAGP2Dng4WcxtVDp2sGN0dhUEnogrq-fRqInPLiFDeu90irFjMCJV7TOSzQQysZwokOpY9D4DLXYgndfa/s320/IMG_0237.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now think about this... when was the last<br />
time you saw an ashtray at your seat<br />
on a commercial aircraft?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So as I settled into my seat, I noticed something odd. Look at the picture... just what in the chicken-fried hell is going on here? That is an actual <i>ashtray </i>in the armrest of my seat. An ashtray!! Now, this aircraft was a 777-200ER, an aircraft that wasn't even introduced into service until 1997, long after smoking was banned aboard all aircraft. So I can only assume that, at some point, China Southern cheaply retrofitted the plane with seats from another aircraft from the pre-smoking ban days. Lord. That probably explains the sucky quality of the video screens in the seatbacks (and the very limited content selection), which I couldn't even bother to use. So yeah, even though China Southern is the sixth-largest airline in the world that most of the world's population has still never even heard of, they still have a long way to go.<br />
<br />
So after an uneventful 15-hour flight across the Pacific that, mercifully, I largely slept through, we landed in fabulous Guangzhou early in the morning on January 10th. The outside temperature was 48°F, about 9°C, and I'm not even joking here, the temperature inside the airport wasn't much higher. I don't know if the heat was not working or if they just never bothered to install it to begin with, but it was flat-out cold inside the terminal. All the workers were wandering around wearing coats and scarves. I half-expected to see a team of sled dogs being mushed down the concourse. Once again, we had to endure the abject silliness of going through immigration and security, all with the added joy of freezing half to death during the process.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4XZRict-nwnbVQO-lOfy7j7ELFeFTB7eEvN6TXc6Ax7A6DmUSSexCiUYXSld4LZBqLkEyjm8Vuji0jB01nPeMuWn3BGmTVMssi9hG-MLeYmaopXzzpJWwjKjOhdZw2kaFKiQhmq-Gc8e/s1600/CIMG4484.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4XZRict-nwnbVQO-lOfy7j7ELFeFTB7eEvN6TXc6Ax7A6DmUSSexCiUYXSld4LZBqLkEyjm8Vuji0jB01nPeMuWn3BGmTVMssi9hG-MLeYmaopXzzpJWwjKjOhdZw2kaFKiQhmq-Gc8e/s320/CIMG4484.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What the hell? It's so bizarre, there's not even an<br />
international symbol for it. (Note that all the other<br />
signs have symbols alongside the text.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Once I cleared the lone security checkpoint and wondered once again what this sign really meant (it doesn't bode well for anyone that the airport has an entire giant sign directing travelers to a place for those whose flights were cancelled), I went downstairs to the gate for the flight to Kuala Lumpur. Yes... downstairs. Unworthy of even getting a real gate with a jetway, the flight to KL boards Air Asia-style, where you walk outside onto the tarmac and climb up a flight of stairs haphazardly propped up against the aircraft. Worse, we had to get on a bus to be delivered to the plane. As I was standing on the bus with all my carry-on booty, this middle-age Chinese woman got on and stood nearby, clearly seething about something. Moments later, she got off, walked over to the gate agents and just <i>completely </i>went off on them, delivering a blistering verbal beatdown... shouting, pointing, screeching, gesturing wildly, the works. It was quite the meltdown. Alas, it was also a Cantonese meltdown, so I have no idea what she was so agitated about. After she finished scolding the agents, she stalked back on the bus and stood there, silently simmering and glowering for another couple of minutes, then, after apparently deciding that she hadn't castigated them quite enough, got off the bus and went and unloaded yet another salvo on the two hapless gate agents, whose ears hadn't even stopped bleeding from the first tirade. Honestly, I cannot imagine what had her so riled up, but she was definitely not amused about something. I thought about filming the whole scene, but can you imagine the drama if she'd have noticed <i>that</i>? Yikes.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hDl8Za-gKE3y4BPIoHYvQWdta0r0TTqBuIS6UVsHTT1BMQBmB0Ib1dFvtfXGnWUht3zfpzV0spQaW7NYjo5JxR_1DwMa_-ZuTGE6A3piN6wqw6dIg0eZJNx1bP8atgkBs41SrcM5NTmD/s1600/CIMG4483.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hDl8Za-gKE3y4BPIoHYvQWdta0r0TTqBuIS6UVsHTT1BMQBmB0Ib1dFvtfXGnWUht3zfpzV0spQaW7NYjo5JxR_1DwMa_-ZuTGE6A3piN6wqw6dIg0eZJNx1bP8atgkBs41SrcM5NTmD/s320/CIMG4483.jpg" width="204" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not sure about the Chinese part, but<br />
the English part is a total lie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So this final flight was aboard an ashtray-free 737-800, and really about the limit of what I like to fly on a narrow-body jet — it was about a 4.5-hour flight down to KL. The flight wasn't entirely full, happily, and the seat next to me was empty, which is always a bonus. That, and the fact that none of the planes crashed, really amounted to about the only good parts of the entire odyssey to get back to KL. The food on the long flight from L.A. was adequate (at best... that's what's in the first picture), but whatever crap they served up on the flight from Guangzhou to KL was just hideous. I couldn't even eat it. It was some vile mockery of a chicken dish, and I don't think it was even fully cooked. Avoiding salmonella is one of my standard goals when I eat, so I didn't even sample this mess. I had a couple of forkfuls of rice, and I think I ate the cold dinner roll, too, but that was all. I was so distraught, I even had a glass of wine, ignoring the fact that it was only something like 8 a.m. The "salad" was a half-dozen rubbishy, ill-ripened cherry tomatoes rolling around unhappily in a little melamine dish, nothing more. The whole thing was so pathetic and appalling, I couldn't even be bothered to extricate my camera and snap a picture. Definitely not a memory I wanted to commit to a photo. I can't believe a poor chicken actually had to give its life for that utter sham of a meal. What a complete dishonor. I mean, it's not like the chicken is a noble bird to begin with, but come on. I can only hope that whatever parts didn't go out in a disgraceful blaze of wretchedness for that dish at least got put to a less-humiliating use. <i>Lord</i>... that may just be the worst airline meal I've ever had placed before me. Anyway... once I arrived at KLIA, I cleared immigration, bought my customary bottle of duty-free booze, resisted the urge to drink it on the spot, and wandered out to the luggage claim carousel, happy and relieved that all the winged travel and gruesome, half-cooked poultry was, at last, safely behind me.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLKNT83Xrn_kruVVbijJ6yobyYnHLkkMpyY8ejbRS6CCaMpgFbP6yV_SnZynPJRh26Gl1QgcSLucwd8070eMjkISVbC3EonWHE9AqHbU9eDTRU80q2umk98QGOHsKHzYe0GydivfzwFj2N/s1600/CIMG4488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLKNT83Xrn_kruVVbijJ6yobyYnHLkkMpyY8ejbRS6CCaMpgFbP6yV_SnZynPJRh26Gl1QgcSLucwd8070eMjkISVbC3EonWHE9AqHbU9eDTRU80q2umk98QGOHsKHzYe0GydivfzwFj2N/s320/CIMG4488.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See my suitcase here? Yeah, neither did I.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Needless to say, after my travails in the lamentable Guangzhou airport, walking through KL's gorgeous, modern airport, with its myriad shops, free WiFi, and amenities galore (and an additional few degrees of warmth, courtesy of Mother Nature), felt like a total return to civilization. There's not much that Malaysia gets right when it comes to transportation (of any kind), believe me, but KLIA is just a delight to fly in and out of. So, with my liter of booze in hand, along with my carry-on suitcase, my jacket, my laptop, and a portable charcoal grill I got for Christmas, I got my free trolley and eagerly waited for my luggage to arrive. My big bag, the one that weighed every bit of the allowable 23 kg., arrived first and I heaved it onto the trolley, then waited for the smaller bag to make its triumphant appearance, which would effectively punch my ticket to get out of the airport and start the final two legs of my long trip home (airport to KL Sentral, then Sentral to my condo). I waited a few minutes, saw with increasing despair the "last bag unloaded" notice on the monitor, then watched the carousel grind to a halt. No little blue suitcase in sight. <b>Perfect.</b> Pretty much the expected end to, bar none, the worst trans-Pacific trip I've ever taken. So I went to the lost luggage office and filled out the required paperwork, grateful at least that I wasn't in the same sorry boat as the backpacking Australian girls next to me, whose luggage had also gone missing, but who were only going to be in KL overnight at a yet-to-be-decided hotel before setting off for Bali the next day and staying there at an equally yet-to-be-decided hotel. Wow. So I was given a case number and informed that I would get a call once they tracked down my bag. I trudged dejectedly to the bus corral where I bought a ticket for a ride to KL Sentral precisely two minutes after the bus had departed. Sigh. So I had to wait for the next bus, which really isn't as traumatic as it sounds, but I'm going for the total sympathy vote here. I finally departed for the city and arrived about 50 minutes later, a pretty good travel time. I will say this much... the absence of that final bag, which weighed about 20 kg., made schlepping my considerable amount of luggage around KL Sentral infinitely easier, though still quite troublesome. You'd think a massive transportation hub like Sentral would have scores of luggage carts around, but you would be wrong. There <i>are </i>random ones to be found here and there, but they're extremely few and far between. But, tenacious as ever, I managed, and my friend Ivan drove up about 25 minutes later to fetch me. I walked in my condo's door at 4:45 p.m., a staggering, breathtaking 57 hours after leaving for Denver's airport in a snowstorm.<br />
<br />
Later that night, I got a call from China Southern airlines, telling me that my bag hadn't actually been lost, no no no, it had actually been purposefully detained in Guangzhou. They said they suspected a pressurized can was in the bag, so they wanted my permission to open the luggage (nice of them to ask) and remove the offending can. Now, fortunately, I had packed my bags with loads of time to spare back in Denver, and actually made an inventory list of what was in which suitcase. Yeah, I know, I'm insane, but I've only ever done this twice, and both times it's paid off. Once was on my initial flight to KL when I moved here and one of my bags got mauled and eaten by the baggage handling system in Los Angeles. And now this episode. I wonder if it's making the inventory lists that's <i>causing </i>the problem?? Hmmm...<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj39_Vzfx89w4EghNlpUl_cTqjZtAcXEthn8N-oR3Xe0M5LcYRboERukgnYJT2bRolefjdDnyBN66HwJQ_mbt5FChWmMu5YIzgZHEngIdR7ks-fhS6qF8O_fJFc2IWOOg5q9hgRxIruIRJr/s1600/DSC_3355.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj39_Vzfx89w4EghNlpUl_cTqjZtAcXEthn8N-oR3Xe0M5LcYRboERukgnYJT2bRolefjdDnyBN66HwJQ_mbt5FChWmMu5YIzgZHEngIdR7ks-fhS6qF8O_fJFc2IWOOg5q9hgRxIruIRJr/s320/DSC_3355.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh, you evil, wicked shaving gel, causing<br />
all this international drama</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Well anyway, I consulted my inventory and determined that it could only be the shaving gel that was in there. Though it seems an odd thing to buy in Denver and bring back all the way to KL, consider that the <i>exact </i>same product costs three times as much here, once you convert the currency. Less than $2 (RM6) a can in Denver, about RM18 here. So I tend to stock up when I go back. So, upon hearing this request to open my extremely stuffed suitcase and rifle through it to find and remove my shaving gel, I reflected on a few things. First, China Southern clearly had no problem with the shaving gel flying from L.A. to Guangzhou, so it was questionable as to why this can suddenly presented a problem on the next flight. Second, there was an identical can of this shaving gel in the suitcase that did get flown from Guangzhou to KL, so clearly they were applying the "no shaving gel" rule pretty arbitrarily and inconsistently. And third, HELLO! It's <b>shaving gel</b>. Millions of people pack cans of shaving cream and gel into their luggage every day! I even checked China Southern's website and it wasn't on their "do not pack" list in any form. So in consideration of all this, I flatly refused their request and told them they'd better get their act together and get that bag to me in a hurry. Bizarrely enough, that's apparently all it took, because it was on an evening flight to KL the following day and delivered to my doorstep at 9:45 p.m., intact and unmolested. So because of all this idiocy, China Southern apparently had to pay Malaysia Airlines to fly my bag to KL, then pay some airport guy to drive it out to my place. I will say this much though: In a similar scenario, there's no way America's odious TSA agents would ever ask a passenger for permission to open a suitcase. They'd open it on a lark, forcibly if necessary, take out whatever they deemed to be the problem item, steal any valuables if it suited their fancy, and leave you a note for your troubles. (They apparently did this to my bag in Denver before flying it to L.A., and though they didn't remove anything, they obviously couldn't be bothered to re-secure my brand-new luggage strap around the suitcase because it was gone when the bag hit the carousel at LAX. Awesome. Thanks guys.)<br />
<br />
So now, the only thing left to do is try to get my reimbursement from Southwest. So far, they're refusing, but I'm not backing down since it was totally their fault the flight was delayed (they told me it was a baggage unloading issue that delayed the plane from even reaching Denver on time), totally their fault I missed my flight to Asia, and totally their employees who emphatically assured me I would be reimbursed. I'm rather annoyed by Southwest's unwillingness to own up to this and just pay my hotel bill, but I am almost certainly not going to fly China Southern again if there's any way to avoid it. They're just stupid. Stupid airline and an even stupider airport. <b>*Shakes fist*</b><br />
<br />
To end on a more upbeat note, I'll close out with a few photos from the trip that didn't make the previous entries. See you next time...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyhcbqIaWlBx32lUJtH0EKnzQuEj0tw_JyNC77-6WSVXdxgV321LSYWBm4emfAMRck1juRwM7hItvQeneHShgkeqMTT9prAq8zRbu1dfZmcGR8BF7mabgcxaldUVYR1wFXsIH4r6SVnJ-x/s1600/IMG_0204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyhcbqIaWlBx32lUJtH0EKnzQuEj0tw_JyNC77-6WSVXdxgV321LSYWBm4emfAMRck1juRwM7hItvQeneHShgkeqMTT9prAq8zRbu1dfZmcGR8BF7mabgcxaldUVYR1wFXsIH4r6SVnJ-x/s320/IMG_0204.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shiloh and me in happier, pre-travel times;<br />
I just need an eye patch and a pirate hat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqpUvQFpenB-KrnDUb-4PbKknJcefZBqOFmjAyimKtX1uOGtSQXd2LAmKHsak3qJGjouxqF7u3ekzU2Ldn9xv-nDPXI_lbxnY9uVsVVXg8TWg5Dct4NyR9qo2NH26xM7cRE6cDHlG1A_9J/s1600/DSC_3247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqpUvQFpenB-KrnDUb-4PbKknJcefZBqOFmjAyimKtX1uOGtSQXd2LAmKHsak3qJGjouxqF7u3ekzU2Ldn9xv-nDPXI_lbxnY9uVsVVXg8TWg5Dct4NyR9qo2NH26xM7cRE6cDHlG1A_9J/s320/DSC_3247.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The City and County building in<br />
downtown Denver... all lit up<br />
for Christmas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh8pyQvxioyOkr5DoYlSPcWmoimOg7qmMbivMX1_fywY5l9uXom7-TJvLn1TmMBZ97hECTT9fyCKJgLyQl0Ngq-XRpGZLywfVgDQwcZo13gkrkU0DIB6s_VMuXVyDWgJOqcP1dtN9gg7-6/s1600/DSC_3272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh8pyQvxioyOkr5DoYlSPcWmoimOg7qmMbivMX1_fywY5l9uXom7-TJvLn1TmMBZ97hECTT9fyCKJgLyQl0Ngq-XRpGZLywfVgDQwcZo13gkrkU0DIB6s_VMuXVyDWgJOqcP1dtN9gg7-6/s400/DSC_3272.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frozen waterfall — Idaho Springs, Colorado<br />
(Can it even be called a waterfall? It's not water and it's not falling. Hmm.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IBBXJD9u3ZoC4iSwdoL8OLmUnU51GXjgnZEoVPTfkmeXNwvfAXkb2JI6UpgEtrQw_lk4Xr3Zd52mq9EQlrx_IFyCPQftsQjHOmb0QzyJsFINgg4Bf5mjs-bhb7r7CpKl-WmvtHwE2arX/s1600/DSC_3283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IBBXJD9u3ZoC4iSwdoL8OLmUnU51GXjgnZEoVPTfkmeXNwvfAXkb2JI6UpgEtrQw_lk4Xr3Zd52mq9EQlrx_IFyCPQftsQjHOmb0QzyJsFINgg4Bf5mjs-bhb7r7CpKl-WmvtHwE2arX/s320/DSC_3283.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My dad and mom, hunkered down against the<br />
howling winter winds in the mountains west of Denver</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPHWw6YkLHSEzkQzctowtgYX143skc7hSL6LBjlxFwP96wHWMxb5JfSmHw19YeoH8QVArE21pDit-ZDCHc7ujHoaNX8j3t0F2LPcu6NYjb50MJwlFPr4qBfeeo_m22Mp9WlPtiyJhEm6MS/s1600/DSC_3280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPHWw6YkLHSEzkQzctowtgYX143skc7hSL6LBjlxFwP96wHWMxb5JfSmHw19YeoH8QVArE21pDit-ZDCHc7ujHoaNX8j3t0F2LPcu6NYjb50MJwlFPr4qBfeeo_m22Mp9WlPtiyJhEm6MS/s400/DSC_3280.jpg" width="283" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A cold, clear late December day in the Rockies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5_SzdpYd1X7o_oe_LMYWpsLCMMSvOkCFptixcCJFoeupWYBG4QvshjaWqOR3bcXNX7Y_ZDezpuxnZHLTrTojfr0QcOjIL8pmh7o-2EyEjFgf9kx2VWdm7wr8jBehU6WUDXn_LWU-0Gvwy/s1600/DSC_3172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5_SzdpYd1X7o_oe_LMYWpsLCMMSvOkCFptixcCJFoeupWYBG4QvshjaWqOR3bcXNX7Y_ZDezpuxnZHLTrTojfr0QcOjIL8pmh7o-2EyEjFgf9kx2VWdm7wr8jBehU6WUDXn_LWU-0Gvwy/s320/DSC_3172.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My crazy bird, Shiloh, helping herself to my coffee</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-66966274593412244042012-01-12T21:04:00.000-07:002012-01-12T21:11:08.535-07:00Christmas in ColoradoAt long last, I'm back at my place in Malaysia. The voyage back was easily the worst I've ever endured. Let's recap, shall we? Totally stuffed-full airplanes, flight delays, screaming toddlers, missed connections, the freaking 24-hour delay in Los Angeles (lest we forget), a cancelled flight, bad food, bad turbulence, and to top it all off, lost luggage.<br />
<br />
Before I get into all of that, and before I lay down a blistering, excoriating critique of China Southern Airlines (and possibly Southwest Airlines, too) and the <i>woefully </i>inept Guangzhou airport, permit me to write about the actual trip back home, which was really good. I may put the saga of the trip back to KL in its own separate entry.<br />
<br />
As I noted in an earlier entry, we got a substantial snowfall just before Christmas, which began the day I arrived in Denver. After that, there was no snow for the rest of my stay, until the day I left. Thought that was pretty interesting, and was really exactly how I'd have scripted it, had anyone asked me. :)<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBV6Vp3x8yeTuRf2wLHjr1IrXxtJwbZJOI93qUZoCGdJ60eSxDfj8FJTqAxDzw1Cfpos3pZiBJVJBasi-D7KTuqEBEeSqSjtaY_O8GLzXBSqqOUdA2_r74oubOrfihSjkwvqyP817-BTfT/s1600/DSC_3174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBV6Vp3x8yeTuRf2wLHjr1IrXxtJwbZJOI93qUZoCGdJ60eSxDfj8FJTqAxDzw1Cfpos3pZiBJVJBasi-D7KTuqEBEeSqSjtaY_O8GLzXBSqqOUdA2_r74oubOrfihSjkwvqyP817-BTfT/s320/DSC_3174.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I've gotta dream up a name for these!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For reasons passing understanding, I agreed to prepare and cook Christmas dinner for everyone (ten people), even though I was only arriving in town three days before that. It was a bit of a fiasco trying to get all the ingredients I needed before the stores closed on Christmas Eve, but it ultimately worked out okay. I decided to cook a couple of Beef Wellingtons with spinach and mushroom duxelles (and all the side dishes, as well). I also made a wild mushroom soup with crème fraîche as the starter. That part was good, but the beef didn't cook as quickly as I had hoped, so there was a long delay between the soup course and the entrée course. Whoops. I also prepared hors d'oeuvres, but have no name for this little creation. It's a slice of Genoa salami and a bit of garlic- and herb-seasoned cream cheese in a small puff pastry shell, festooned with a stuffed Manzanilla olive. It's one of my favorites to make, and they just burst with contrasting flavors. Anyway, the dinner was great -- family and friends. We all exchanged gifts and ate and drank and just enjoyed the day. We had the dinner at our friends' house in Colorado Springs, and they routinely get deer wandering around in their yard and we had a trio come right up to the back door as we were getting the dinner ready.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTeV_4PPTP30PYi2rNdwvLN-c8xJc3lTTMZp8KfnYckQiYn4fwYDwxUVLdnC_mvAOr5YJoHkI76qeB3coH6oIcdNETc7FXTeOHxLLB3KbKV9RM6gcBK9FRIt30RELCCwl7aDTJZGZzPli/s1600/DSC_3181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTeV_4PPTP30PYi2rNdwvLN-c8xJc3lTTMZp8KfnYckQiYn4fwYDwxUVLdnC_mvAOr5YJoHkI76qeB3coH6oIcdNETc7FXTeOHxLLB3KbKV9RM6gcBK9FRIt30RELCCwl7aDTJZGZzPli/s320/DSC_3181.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The table is set for Christmas dinner...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjToEShGsVRk370dA6SrBg5zC2vQMBj5hqJ8ceOrLKtF95eo1WmZewYYE1Bl9DJ3wLclGfq1bOPHYO1eGTCEQ21pnKlx-1MIhSTwdljQqTupawN5-ZaFr3XNMpoyLEKJt5ni3FjIs6pr14j/s1600/DSC_3187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjToEShGsVRk370dA6SrBg5zC2vQMBj5hqJ8ceOrLKtF95eo1WmZewYYE1Bl9DJ3wLclGfq1bOPHYO1eGTCEQ21pnKlx-1MIhSTwdljQqTupawN5-ZaFr3XNMpoyLEKJt5ni3FjIs6pr14j/s320/DSC_3187.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"You're not cooking venison, are you?"</td></tr>
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<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxpwinQtOPpTs7DbqXCmo2d1uobCpfGAcrVO3jSvSCNWO056fvGIjV3Ju4MdWpgnWzt8cGUQiFV4pgDM9C_SYajG014-JQmCkvDnC-FKu4_w1z7eGE0ASbMBn2mc37yRLhFHq37hYwPJiS/s1600/CIMG0756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxpwinQtOPpTs7DbqXCmo2d1uobCpfGAcrVO3jSvSCNWO056fvGIjV3Ju4MdWpgnWzt8cGUQiFV4pgDM9C_SYajG014-JQmCkvDnC-FKu4_w1z7eGE0ASbMBn2mc37yRLhFHq37hYwPJiS/s320/CIMG0756.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad and me, freezing at Red Rocks Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In an even greater source of confusion, my mom took it upon herself to e-mail my father, who lives in Alabama, and invite him out to Colorado while I was in town. Now, they divorced over 35 years ago, and really haven't spent any appreciable time together in at least three decades, and it's been at least that long since the three of us, our little erstwhile family unit, had been under the same roof. So when she dropped this bombshell on me, that my dad would be appearing in Denver the day after Christmas, and staying at her place, no less, I was pretty stunned. However, I knew it would all be just fine and likely pretty enjoyable... and it was. Turned out to be a really fun visit. Here's a pic of him and me at Red Rocks, the park and natural amphitheater just west of Denver. Dad was there visiting for four days and had a great time. I took him to the Coors beer brewery for the free tour, which I hadn't done myself in probably 15 years. They give you three complimentary beers to drink at the end -- a beer tasting, I guess, since you can choose from about 10 different offerings -- and since they're very nearly full-sized beers, we got a tiny bit buzzed, then headed down the street (in downtown Golden, Colorado) to the Capitol Grille and split a wonderful and huge grilled bison burger with some of the best crispy fries I've had in a long time... and had another couple of local beers. Ha ha. It was great.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuiWI3HTL249eki6byc4wnx24MY-wK9zVnjCtqo8nb8Hcs4HQX3R9PcUbyxlmVbI2jxmC39FVczcM1hKAtGiFUikJLnlnI4dsBT3rGy5w-QA4Vqy76RQGHxlKpKCHcKaYgbfNLWSikZf9E/s1600/DSC_3267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuiWI3HTL249eki6byc4wnx24MY-wK9zVnjCtqo8nb8Hcs4HQX3R9PcUbyxlmVbI2jxmC39FVczcM1hKAtGiFUikJLnlnI4dsBT3rGy5w-QA4Vqy76RQGHxlKpKCHcKaYgbfNLWSikZf9E/s320/DSC_3267.jpg" width="291" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It wasn't until half the pizza had been devoured that<br />
I realized I hadn't yet snapped a picture of it!</td></tr>
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Another high point was going up to the mountains one day. We went to a landmark restaurant in the small town of Idaho Springs called Beau Jo's. This place makes Colorado-style "mountain pies" — big, thick-crust pizzas that people heading to or from the ski slopes of Colorado's mountains have been savoring for many years. We actually got a "prairie pie," which is the semi-thin crust version, and created this culinary marvel from their ridiculously long list of crusts, sauces, cheeses, and toppings. My dad was raving about it, calling it perhaps the best pizza he had ever eaten. It was made with a basil-pesto sauce, a four-cheese blend of mozzarella, provolone, fontina, and feta cheeses, pepperoni, mushrooms, Andouille sausage, and a shower of Greek herbs and seasonings on top. It was absolutely gobsmacking delicious, I kid you not. From Beau Jo's, we proceeded over the always-scenic Highway 103 over Squaw and Juniper Passes. There were ferocious winds howling through the Rocky Mountains that day, easily gusting up to 90 mph (144 km/h), so we saw a lot of what they call "ground blizzards," where the high winds whip up the snow from the ground and can create whiteout conditions, even under a cloudless blue sky. It was a beautiful drive. Cresting the pass at over 11,000 feet (3,300 meters), the views are always breathtaking, and this time was no exception. You can see why people love living in Colorado!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdGJFJgTd-eLlTkAlO7M-U9evtmGx0DEYparsZjEIyWRUuEzAywVaIetXYtdRMJDIiV1E_pHpCIIPn8Z6O2GYh1y0_4R8e1EcTzAWrTxCMwuN5Rfr4RJp-v1K3AkymxHZWPOm8a2COGnxs/s1600/DSC_3276.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdGJFJgTd-eLlTkAlO7M-U9evtmGx0DEYparsZjEIyWRUuEzAywVaIetXYtdRMJDIiV1E_pHpCIIPn8Z6O2GYh1y0_4R8e1EcTzAWrTxCMwuN5Rfr4RJp-v1K3AkymxHZWPOm8a2COGnxs/s400/DSC_3276.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The amazing view from Colo. Highway 103</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU-GuJdvoGKovRmJy_sgfYFUlsyoJdvS_HbCZjqyjYG3cTuXo6jT7wQB8l2v3ZOPyD-4Os2LUAlYoTsL0KY29CLQxf11oEDl7CF9PvL69eX5RebySIJqAyfsPnnBRb1GJkkrfLW1qE2hY9/s1600/DSC_3192.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU-GuJdvoGKovRmJy_sgfYFUlsyoJdvS_HbCZjqyjYG3cTuXo6jT7wQB8l2v3ZOPyD-4Os2LUAlYoTsL0KY29CLQxf11oEDl7CF9PvL69eX5RebySIJqAyfsPnnBRb1GJkkrfLW1qE2hY9/s400/DSC_3192.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the view of Denver from Red Rocks Park in the<br />foothills just west of the city</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The rest of the trip was pretty standard... relaxing, shopping, eating out (had some outstanding Mexican food, as usual), evenings by the fire, things like that. One of the other nice moments happened around dusk one afternoon (the sun sets very early in December there) when we were up in the foothills in a town called Evergreen. The town has a good-sized lake that, of course, freezes over every winter. A part of the lake is maintained for ice skating, and there were loads of people out skating that day. I snapped a picture that quickly became my favorite of the trip... it's truly a winter wonderland. Boys crossing the bridge over a frozen creek with their hockey gear after a day spent on the ice, the last of the afternoon's warmth and light stealing from the scene, the crowds still ice skating under the darkening sky... it was just magical. A huge part of getting that great shot is simply being in the right place at the right time (and having a camera handy).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRtdQvd5z69IG37Jk6zcZbDQR_xbVIQEtt2F7p4GvmTQ0lyj7_ldRHszYSdLRc1iK5jCsDvoHef3V3wwjWN9ckxv_TMInpxFRFSR9q0_AepXFC95cinSx6M6IXlpOuMZMZwiA-jotobiLM/s1600/DSC_3208e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRtdQvd5z69IG37Jk6zcZbDQR_xbVIQEtt2F7p4GvmTQ0lyj7_ldRHszYSdLRc1iK5jCsDvoHef3V3wwjWN9ckxv_TMInpxFRFSR9q0_AepXFC95cinSx6M6IXlpOuMZMZwiA-jotobiLM/s400/DSC_3208e.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ice skating in Evergreen, Colorado</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzjtPKfhP3GE5_Mx3ZLFoKSdouUbGOIZA14_Apa67VyVlE3zis1r3V8HDC8L_idhNsVk0UHOBvJjZkGzpNekYfnGddZOqUf8bAEQmfMMzwvhTikbO_DYnTtxheeq6zt3ak49L-s29YHv-2/s1600/IMG_0229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzjtPKfhP3GE5_Mx3ZLFoKSdouUbGOIZA14_Apa67VyVlE3zis1r3V8HDC8L_idhNsVk0UHOBvJjZkGzpNekYfnGddZOqUf8bAEQmfMMzwvhTikbO_DYnTtxheeq6zt3ak49L-s29YHv-2/s320/IMG_0229.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I took this picture at my mom's place as we were leaving<br />
for the airport... and the snow was falling again</td></tr>
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As 2011 gave way to 2012, I still had a week to enjoy being in my home city, and the weather was just fantastic. One fine day — in early January, mind you! — the temperature hit nearly 70°F (21°C). But it didn't last. When I first moved to Colorado back in 1989, I was repeatedly told, "If you don't like the weather here, just wait an hour." Sure enough, the temperature had plummeted to 42°F (5°C) by the next day, and the day after that, my departure day, it was snowing steadily. Such is life in Colorado! Here in KL, no one ever discusses or cares much about the weather, because it's mostly the same day in and day out. You'll hear no forecasts on the radio, see no weather segments on the local news... it's just not something that needs any real consideration here. In Denver, though, the weather is a major factor in people's day-to-day life, and it changes all the time, sometimes crazily and rapidly!<br />
<br />
So I'll wrap this up here and write soon about the odyssey of getting back to Malaysia. Never a short journey to begin with, this particular one took a jaw-dropping <b><i>57 hours</i></b> to complete. The harrowing details... coming soon.Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-45675178862148159132012-01-08T17:59:00.000-07:002012-01-08T19:30:21.998-07:00Marooned in L.A.I admit it. I'm one of <i>those </i>people. I don't want to get to the airport three hours before my flight, just to sit and languish in the airport forever while waiting for the flight to board. I've had my fair share of close calls, but have never missed a flight, and really, have very rarely made any mad dashes through the airport, either.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4EPVOtE90-M-6xVep733XxUVW-9-5UEktrdxCVynDquHqKh4AAXovbF51YXk9671V96-5Q__I_N17El8W_1JGRWNBQZC9-_7Y467gVA4q9P05KG_d11IIMDWkkpavwy0N4B4iAgRsIMVr/s1600/IMG_0233%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4EPVOtE90-M-6xVep733XxUVW-9-5UEktrdxCVynDquHqKh4AAXovbF51YXk9671V96-5Q__I_N17El8W_1JGRWNBQZC9-_7Y467gVA4q9P05KG_d11IIMDWkkpavwy0N4B4iAgRsIMVr/s320/IMG_0233%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a deliriously happy sight for any traveler!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, this time was different. With snow falling on the day of my departure and three very heavy suitcases to heave around, I was taking no chances. My mom and I had a great lunch and a pitcher of margaritas at a local Denver Mexican restaurant at around 2 p.m., then headed to the airport very early. I arrived some two and a half hours before my flight, and I am here to tell everyone: If you want to fly out of Denver hassle-free and without a crowd of millions at every security checkpoint, Saturday evenings seem to be the time for that. Look at this total lack of people at security. I breezed through!<br />
<br />
Unfortunately, that's pretty much where the good times ended. For some reason, the plane that was to take me to Los Angeles was late in arriving, so there was an announced 20-minute delay in the flight. Since I had a little over a two-hour layover in L.A., this wasn't too troublesome. However, the 20-minute delay swelled into a 75-minute delay, and we took off at 8:12 p.m. instead of the originally scheduled 6:55 p.m. As we made our approach into L.A., our announced arrival time was 9:07 p.m. My China Southern flight was scheduled to depart at 10:30, so I was pretty concerned at this point.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPRrL20aoN_LYsf7gpzr2tA7DnUvYUNWRBCrmKQ-o13CSt37x-q6VLUwegHRJf4lpnaa6JV46i0945BbgLD0LTeD51kys79LTHhaUJwKa_dBMTsOV54N_FT_ZiOnbnQSQ1KcwCf5QYt-D/s1600/IMG_0235%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPRrL20aoN_LYsf7gpzr2tA7DnUvYUNWRBCrmKQ-o13CSt37x-q6VLUwegHRJf4lpnaa6JV46i0945BbgLD0LTeD51kys79LTHhaUJwKa_dBMTsOV54N_FT_ZiOnbnQSQ1KcwCf5QYt-D/s320/IMG_0235%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My snow-covered plane that got me to LAX safely,<br />
just not on time</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The flight itself was fairly bad, too. The snow in Denver didn't cause any serious problems apart from an extra ten minutes or so of delay as they de-iced the plane's wings. But once we got airborne, nothing really improved. Despite the near-empty terminal, this flight was completely full, and there must have been two dozen small children on the plane. I'm not kidding; there were at least six of them right around me, one of whom threw a full-blown and very loud screaming tantrum as we neared LAX. We also had some really bad turbulence on the descent, too, which is never a good time. Anyway, we landed, taxied to our gate, and I got off as quickly as possible and collected my checked luggage probably around 9:35, loaded up a luggage cart, and bolted out the door for the International Terminal, which is stupendously far from Terminal 1 at LAX. At a leisurely walk, it would easily take 12-15 minutes. I got there in about half that time, and when I got to the China Southern check-in counter, it was nearly closed. Only two staffers were still there, and they were closing out everything and cleaning up. They initially said that it was possible for me to make the flight, but that there was absolutely no way my luggage would go -- and that it would arrive a day later. After explaining my options to me, it was around 9:50, and by that time, there was no way for even me to get through security and to the gate, so I had officially missed my flight thanks to Southwest's delay.<br />
<br />
So, on the advice of the China Southern ticket agents, I trudged all the way back to Terminal 1, only to find that the entire Southwest ticketing wing was closed. Nobody was there at all, so I went down to baggage claim and found some of their staff hanging around. They issued a so-called "delay certificate," which supposedly will get me onto the next China Southern flight without being charged, and told me that Southwest would reimburse me for my lodging and food on account of my being stranded for 24 hours in Los Angeles, so I'm saving my receipts and holding out hope that Southwest will be as good about taking care of this issue as they were about paying up for my <a href="http://chadinkl.blogspot.com/2008/09/my-first-flight-on-southwest-airlines.html" target="_blank">destroyed suitcase and its contents back in September 2008</a> when I first moved to Malaysia. Like this time, that flight was also quite late in departing. I'm not sure what it is with Southwest and its flights to L.A., but I've not had any luck at all with them.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYcoIPfrEfSukHOJEBQK2SsrC4ToTvsVf0im4W-mLoGMP8N5YoYr9KMQqHeI9EDZmZQ7RzinHnPtLWwR3bbirTaIINm5_uDoeWAbzzNI5wJdlo2DySk7_audovxFn6jHZDILQPK2Bd1CeN/s1600/CIMG4476.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYcoIPfrEfSukHOJEBQK2SsrC4ToTvsVf0im4W-mLoGMP8N5YoYr9KMQqHeI9EDZmZQ7RzinHnPtLWwR3bbirTaIINm5_uDoeWAbzzNI5wJdlo2DySk7_audovxFn6jHZDILQPK2Bd1CeN/s320/CIMG4476.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watching the game at the Radisson's restaurant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I got a shuttle bus to the Radisson, staying once again in the same hotel I stayed in almost three weeks ago, except that time intentionally. And that's where I am now. I went down to Subway for lunch, and wow, was it ever nice outside! Can't deny that southern Califoria in January is a great place to be... it was a perfect 67°F (about 19°C) with nice blue skies. So I had my lunch, and the front desk folks let me stay in the room until about 2:30 p.m., and now I'm in the lobby in their casual restaurant, just relaxing, surfing the net, and watching the Broncos-Steelers NFL playoff game on TV, which is a great way to pass the time... much better than being adrift and miserable at the airport, in any case. It's about 4:30 p.m. now, so I have another six hours to go before my flight departs. With any luck, my next entry will be from the cozy confines of my condo in Damansara Perdana.<br />
<br />
Oh, as a P.S., I <i>just </i>got an email notifying me that China Southern has cancelled the flight from Guangzhou to KL that I was originally scheduled to be on. At first I thought it meant that they had cancelled my seat since I missed the flight from L.A., but when I read it carefully, it showed that that the entire flight was cancelled. So even if I had somehow managed to make that outbound flight from L.A. last night, I'd still have been stuck, for who knows how long, in Guangzhou's airport of despair... so maybe this was all for the best.<br />
<br />
Will I ever get home?? Stay tuned!<br />
<br />
P.S. again... BRONCOS WIN IT IN OVERTIME!!!!!<br />
<br />
<br />Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-80476506120682045582012-01-04T10:21:00.000-07:002012-01-08T19:34:26.308-07:00Greetings from America...<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqx9RE9tlMpf9nopjT4lMV3z5uuyubGydVDBrM7c9WAKbT9AdUlF50I1MwzujJKa9qgUEIImxlFAtzVcRy7WihqDfjhl2hqF6DE5gHQgIt9pq-jgrcf_QB0cLRbJQc57dQrbuEt9zFO2Xb/s1600/DSC_3279bw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqx9RE9tlMpf9nopjT4lMV3z5uuyubGydVDBrM7c9WAKbT9AdUlF50I1MwzujJKa9qgUEIImxlFAtzVcRy7WihqDfjhl2hqF6DE5gHQgIt9pq-jgrcf_QB0cLRbJQc57dQrbuEt9zFO2Xb/s320/DSC_3279bw.jpg" width="189" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter in the Rockies,<br />
black-and-white style</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
... and happy 2012 to everyone. Apparently, this year marks the end of the world, so let's make sure it's a good one. Ha ha.<br />
<br />
So here I am, home for the holidays back in Colorado. Christmas has come and gone, and now, all the New Year's festivities are behind us, too, so I thought I'd write and kind of give an update on the trip so far. I've been here almost two weeks now and have a few more days before leaving the Rocky Mountain state and flying back to Malaysia.<br />
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The flight over was pretty uneventful, <a href="http://chadinkl.blogspot.com/2010/01/china-southern-airlines-and-christmas.html" target="_blank">a marked difference from the dreadful China Southern flight home two Christmases ago</a>. The layover was much shorter, and the airplane was newer. But they still have a ways to go. In 2009, I didn't even get a boarding pass for the second leg of the flight (Guangzhou to L.A.) until I actually arrived in Guangzhou, an issue that caused quite a kerfuffle. This time, I got both of my boarding passes upon check-in at the counter in KL, but once we arrived in China, a mob of transit passengers was still required to stand in a lengthy immigration queue. Apparently, the fine people in Guangzhou still haven't sorted out what "transit" means. At every other airport I've transited through (Singapore, Bangkok, Tokyo, Seoul, Hong Kong, etc.), all transit passengers just get herded to the transit area. There's no passport inspection, no checking of documents, you're just passing through. So after the lengthy wait to clear immigration (for whatever reason), I proceeded up an escalator to an even slower line... for security screening. Never mind that we had just gotten off an international flight, hundreds of people had to be shoehorned through ONE security gate. Every person was metal-detected, hand-wanded, and their belongings x-rayed. Keep in mind there was only one line for this, and it took forever. Seriously, transiting in Guangzhou still sucks. The only reason I chose China Southern again was just the huge difference in fare price ($1,000 USD vs. about $1,600 and up for every other airline).<br />
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So once I finally cleared security, there I was, on that same hellish concourse from two years ago where I languished for 20 hours in total on two epic layovers. I didn't have long to wait this time, but WiFi is still frustratingly absent there. Numerous people were wandering around in a techno-daze with their smartphones and laptops held out plaintively, searching in vain for working WiFi signals. I finally found one at one of the tea/coffee shops, and felt compelled to pay a whopping $6 USD for a cup of admittedly very nice <i>tikuanyin </i>tea just to use their network guilt-free. But by that time, my flight was already about to board, and the tea shop was completely chaotic, so I was very pressed for time. I somehow managed to hurriedly book a room at the Radisson hotel near LAX using my little iPod and a hotel app I had just downloaded. Since I'd be overnighting upon arrival in L.A., booking the hotel gave me a great sense of relief, knowing I wouldn't be adrift in the airport there from 6 p.m. until 6:30 the following morning. So off we flew... and funnily enough, we actually landed in California earlier (by local time) than when we departed!<br />
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So I got to L.A. and cleared immigration and customs easily and efficiently. The airport in L.A. still sucks, but they are definitely making strides in improvement, particularly in the international terminal. It's loads better than it was 3-4 years ago, so props to them for that. I still prefer flying into other ports of entry into America, though. I got my luggage and found the free shuttle bus to the Radisson and headed off into the California evening. I was really surprised that I was able to get such a nice hotel right next to LAX for only $58... it was a mobile-only promo on some iPhone app, so I was happy to get that rate. I wouldn't expect to get much more than a budget motel for around $50 in Los Angeles, but this was a solid 3-star-plus hotel. The room was great, the bed was huge and very comfortable, and I got to enjoy a long soak in a hot bath... total bliss after a 13-hour trans-Pacific flight (which itself followed a 4-hour flight and 3-hour layover for a grand total of 20 hours of transit). There was a Subway just nearby, so I walked down in the surprisingly chilly night air (mid-40s -- I didn't know L.A. ever got that cold) and got a footlong Italian sub and took it back to my room and devoured it. So tasty!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlNwhcx3kb-h-ARhMZiPPIL82T_4RKpssPSxDJAWjcv0QVFGCfFJ-gUEbvtb8Kcu54bGgZouvmZZ95Kow1FAg_rk6Z7aotYzAcJaY_snXyLfL0vw9lPLtgZqcw-dPH1Z4cEGh5cZ3d4EVn/s1600/DSC_3142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlNwhcx3kb-h-ARhMZiPPIL82T_4RKpssPSxDJAWjcv0QVFGCfFJ-gUEbvtb8Kcu54bGgZouvmZZ95Kow1FAg_rk6Z7aotYzAcJaY_snXyLfL0vw9lPLtgZqcw-dPH1Z4cEGh5cZ3d4EVn/s320/DSC_3142.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the morning after the snow<br />
began -- we got a bit more, but this<br />
shows the majority of the snowfall</td></tr>
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The next morning, December 22nd, I flew to Denver and within hours of my arrival, snow began falling, continued at a fairly heavy rate throughout the night and until around lunchtime the next day. When it finally stopped, we had around 10" (25 cm), a hefty snowfall for the city in December. With this much snow on the 23rd, a White Christmas was virtually guaranteed! The following day, Christmas Eve, we had a spectacular, cloudless blue Colorado sky, and the fresh blanket of snow really made it easy to get into a holiday mood!<br />
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I'll stop here and write more once I get back to Malaysia, along with a lot more pictures, but here are a couple to get you started... the one from my mom's back porch here is interesting because of the expanse of deep snow on the hillside in the background. It doesn't provide much contrast with the snow on the table, but you can sort it all out. It was a nice, deep snowfall, for sure!<br />
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To be continued...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaW0K4tGS62LZlNWyjmRZDWsZYqaikCN0SieUdRx96TZvMZo5MJuZdlHk0b8rU1Co2EEHmhKm8A5IZllq4SPRNECtyDlfYWlJCQlXi9fC-1-M5leZi6LGFx_EjuSQzFiSWN6ecWaXIxVTZ/s1600/DSC_3151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="156" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaW0K4tGS62LZlNWyjmRZDWsZYqaikCN0SieUdRx96TZvMZo5MJuZdlHk0b8rU1Co2EEHmhKm8A5IZllq4SPRNECtyDlfYWlJCQlXi9fC-1-M5leZi6LGFx_EjuSQzFiSWN6ecWaXIxVTZ/s400/DSC_3151.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Midday on Christmas Eve just near my mother's house...<br />
definitely click on this one to enlarge!</td></tr>
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<br />Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-14790933039164466122011-11-29T04:12:00.001-07:002011-12-01T06:35:03.678-07:00Rendang: A Cook's Journey<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZyYeNlp0vXLkQttOv60mlNmFH4x8fA4-s1JA9DkYBS1eJGNWEDee6j5NGg4duUL9PFwbfVFFRbP7faDUb_LJCZZkxolzAhrvh8W84h0tiwp8VsQekOcRMvZiGBsKmwuxin08FbEhYoPAp/s1600/DSC_2632.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZyYeNlp0vXLkQttOv60mlNmFH4x8fA4-s1JA9DkYBS1eJGNWEDee6j5NGg4duUL9PFwbfVFFRbP7faDUb_LJCZZkxolzAhrvh8W84h0tiwp8VsQekOcRMvZiGBsKmwuxin08FbEhYoPAp/s320/DSC_2632.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That's not <i>rendang</i>! One of my homemade pizzas:<br />
Slightly charred crust, real pepperoni that's just crisp<br />
around the edges, plenty of cheese... ahhh...</td></tr>
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As anyone who knows me can attest, food is one of my great passions. I routinely and regularly make flatbread pizzas here, and have even reverted to making regular pizzas, too (making the dough from scratch, as I always did back in Colorado). I'm planning on getting a baking stone on my trip back home for Christmas so I can really do some proper pizzas in my little countertop oven. In the meantime, though, this is typical of the sort of pizza I usually make. Very rustic. Very tasty.<br />
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A good pizza is always going to be a big hit with me, but one of my favorite regional dishes to make and to eat is <i>rendang</i>. I've yet to meet any local here who doesn't respond very favorably to the mere mention of this word. And it's easy to understand why: Not only is this dish usually reserved for holidays and special occasions in many parts of Indonesia and Malaysia, it's a sumptuously flavorful way to prepare meat. In fact, I just learned that in a 2011 poll of 35,000 people by CNN International, <i>rendang </i>was chosen as the number one dish for the "<a href="http://www.cnngo.com/explorations/eat/readers-choice-worlds-50-most-delicious-foods-012321" target="_blank">World's 50 Most Delicious Foods</a>" list (click to read the list... it's fascinating)! You can use almost anything for a good <i>rendang</i>... chicken, lamb, beef, duck, even water buffalo. The meat is just the carrier for the flavor that comes from a blend of fresh spices and a rather unique method of preparation.<br />
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I've actually made this dish a few times before, but never since moving here, which is odd. Here in KL, you can find hastily prepared <i>rendang </i>scooped alongside a serving of <i>nasi lemak</i>, but no one would pretend that such <i>rendang </i>is really in the same league with one<i> </i>that's been made by a local home cook in a traditional village. To put it mildly, <i>rendang </i>is a labor of love... it's a tiring and time-consuming dish, both to prepare and to actually cook. However, one of my friends recently gave me a nice mortar and pestle, so I figured I should break it in with an auspicious dish, and <i>rendang </i>definitely qualifies.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcdCpP1YT87JPrHSXrYyRtcZWwW2Zwc9QFFwE9R1aMqdQ-yhp5HcIpSA2qa53aQVmB22R7ni4wTwIs3Kp6LExz7X633Qpu11jYXzzht1CRf4vYFPaiUrqRdkV8jTyopSuMR8Yt9zF-bt1h/s1600/DSC_3010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcdCpP1YT87JPrHSXrYyRtcZWwW2Zwc9QFFwE9R1aMqdQ-yhp5HcIpSA2qa53aQVmB22R7ni4wTwIs3Kp6LExz7X633Qpu11jYXzzht1CRf4vYFPaiUrqRdkV8jTyopSuMR8Yt9zF-bt1h/s320/DSC_3010.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting to pound the spices</td></tr>
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The recipe I use is from West Sumatra, Indonesia (where <i>rendang </i>originated among the Minangkabau people), uses beef, and absolutely drips with complex flavors. Pounding out a good spice paste to start with is a key step in the preparation. I use a laundry list of spices and aromatics: whole nutmegs, cloves, ginger, shallots, turmeric, garlic, galangal, candlenuts, red chilies, lemongrass, <i>daun salam</i> (the closest we have in Western cooking is bay leaves), cinnamon sticks, and Kaffir lime leaves. Most of these ingredients are pounded in a mortar until a loose, wet, yellow-orange paste is formed... this is the tiring part. You can use a food processor (and I have before), but I wanted to make this one the traditional way. The aromatics (the last four ingredients) are thrown in whole.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUgVPBMO4YvBXetV0XpDIRDLk9e3kXl_q4AW3ospfskBpkxVG0vd1U4g94MYvzSnIw-o5TVHvSOK9w9NR6c0K9-9tDSMGVy23HvUiCo8ZPNN00MQGZv0kj9zmv_GZ459ilv_z8qPtdsBVY/s1600/DSC_3012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUgVPBMO4YvBXetV0XpDIRDLk9e3kXl_q4AW3ospfskBpkxVG0vd1U4g94MYvzSnIw-o5TVHvSOK9w9NR6c0K9-9tDSMGVy23HvUiCo8ZPNN00MQGZv0kj9zmv_GZ459ilv_z8qPtdsBVY/s320/DSC_3012.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here it is after a LOT of pounding and mashing</td></tr>
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I got lucky... when I was shopping for the ingredients, Australian beef (and just the cut I wanted, no less) was on sale for RM26.90 per kilo. To put that in American perspective, it's about $3.80 per pound. Not really cheap, but good beef never is... and saving RM9.00 per kilo was a great thing.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Sucqvt_iRarPbc6CFiez4v3_aNks-AYAayOQi7OuKHx9GYeyVRXOk9zfAZYd3bZsFlr5mLyRUZNoQInyWVfaRj4JCc100pfHEDqwZ7V3-VgOnzD-VKfNWpgPrZiyIJnJy3UnAmO7U3MM/s1600/DSC_3013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Sucqvt_iRarPbc6CFiez4v3_aNks-AYAayOQi7OuKHx9GYeyVRXOk9zfAZYd3bZsFlr5mLyRUZNoQInyWVfaRj4JCc100pfHEDqwZ7V3-VgOnzD-VKfNWpgPrZiyIJnJy3UnAmO7U3MM/s320/DSC_3013.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not as richly marbled as is ideal for this dish,<br />
but still some pretty nice cuts of Aussie beef</td></tr>
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So I cut the beef into large pieces and threw them in the pan with the spice paste, then added two cups of coconut milk and the aromatics and started cooking. You can imagine the intense smell at this point!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAwAj0NYQG4R-o2Rb5bH69geKk8avDXJXBGRgZAf88WruEy0kWPce7fPvmccVX10GNERRhi9OzyYcZNuUpvTQIfGrky_8Frl0dttVeWymD-xawJ-4VEpuo2YvgWKz7fsC_8uZ4w8MrOaYh/s1600/DSC_3017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAwAj0NYQG4R-o2Rb5bH69geKk8avDXJXBGRgZAf88WruEy0kWPce7fPvmccVX10GNERRhi9OzyYcZNuUpvTQIfGrky_8Frl0dttVeWymD-xawJ-4VEpuo2YvgWKz7fsC_8uZ4w8MrOaYh/s320/DSC_3017.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mixing the spice paste in with the beef chunks</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhfJ4Y9CaltamB4UGNOvLRz6urgbfUt0kF9tigowAyq4mbFK4S7nNRVdy1IYxZjnEC4V3hIKNGGPQXk0OBNsK83zRyPB_vkGrwlRcLWoU5CXoq6wn0KwBWABAcmCCzSVWC1mjtgB4IADo/s1600/DSC_3018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhfJ4Y9CaltamB4UGNOvLRz6urgbfUt0kF9tigowAyq4mbFK4S7nNRVdy1IYxZjnEC4V3hIKNGGPQXk0OBNsK83zRyPB_vkGrwlRcLWoU5CXoq6wn0KwBWABAcmCCzSVWC1mjtgB4IADo/s320/DSC_3018.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding the aromatics... lemongrass, cinnamon,<br />
Kaffir lime leaves, and <i>daun salam</i>... Note the<br />
coconut milk in the upper right, waiting to be added</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqF-C0_f_vJhhOq4paY0UV69hZZD9HpgHgJ9hCux4EASvgsKUclERBvWI0Y7ZRUcXCKjB6CthER2MutDGO13QMVIjJxC8p5BTTK8A9tGaxPyIwMyzPsu6P5uNH5QLiws5ayboDpFyAdw6e/s1600/DSC_3022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqF-C0_f_vJhhOq4paY0UV69hZZD9HpgHgJ9hCux4EASvgsKUclERBvWI0Y7ZRUcXCKjB6CthER2MutDGO13QMVIjJxC8p5BTTK8A9tGaxPyIwMyzPsu6P5uNH5QLiws5ayboDpFyAdw6e/s320/DSC_3022.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is after about an hour and 15 minutes of cooking</td></tr>
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Then began the waiting. I said <i>rendang </i>was a time-consuming dish, and a lot of that is the cooking process. In Western cooking, we have a two-step process called braising whereby a meat is seared at high temperature, then simmered in a liquid. <i>Rendang </i>is cooked in the opposite way. It's first simmered in a liquid (the coconut milk and spice paste) until all the liquid in the coconut milk reduces and, finally, evaporates completely, at which point the meat is "pan-fried" in the fats rendered from the coconut and the meat itself. You can probably get an idea now of why <i>rendang </i>is so redolent with complex flavors. However, the whole process can take hours. Since I was making a relatively small batch (only about 650g of meat -- a bit less than 1.5 pounds), it only took two hours for the liquid to fully cook off. I made a big batch back in Colorado once for a dinner party for 20-25 people and it took over eight hours to cook! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvcvpOoF03GeNyxnZy0-MA61J6U97QwjKKKvx1BKf4ZZa45iS5UYZaNyseRMUQ80mnuUbItfAzMExCYMW_8APFLoL10Fug-laDIS_Pwv3HV9ks-YUl7CqfM8-h-0P1v9Rbr1Q2ELcBR2nS/s1600/DSC_3025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvcvpOoF03GeNyxnZy0-MA61J6U97QwjKKKvx1BKf4ZZa45iS5UYZaNyseRMUQ80mnuUbItfAzMExCYMW_8APFLoL10Fug-laDIS_Pwv3HV9ks-YUl7CqfM8-h-0P1v9Rbr1Q2ELcBR2nS/s320/DSC_3025.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garnished with thin-sliced <i>cili merah</i> and<br />
shreds of Kaffir lime leaves</td></tr>
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And here's the final product. I had some friends over and served this with mounds of fluffy hot rice that I steamed with coconut milk, lemongrass, a bit of sliced ginger, and a couple of torn Kaffir lime leaves. Outstanding... the <i>rendang </i>came out pretty spicy and delicious, and there was even some left over, which is great. Like plenty of home-cooked dishes, <i>rendang </i>is even better the next day, as the many complex flavors have had time to develop and meld together.</div>
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Sorry if this entry made anyone hungry... never a great idea to view my blog on an empty stomach!</div>
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Until next time...</div>Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-65680221789328181212011-11-25T22:33:00.001-07:002011-11-27T06:10:08.371-07:00Two countries, three destinations, four days!<div style="text-align: left;">
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In America, with its vast size and impressive system of highways and byways, the road trip is a fixture in our lives. Either taken with the family on vacation or with friends as a rite of passage, most Americans have taken aimless road trips at some point or another.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitHEQc2lonXwpplaL_U47lng7nxWD3mcutZTo4utf26272OBv0jJcNpff6TVru_Z_a5FcOAZTPAmZQBxgEAW8iE3qmDyGRM4j_90Ok6_9krgxWmaM0N2vmWHxscnYtvn5PxQJt_mEtJ7nM/s1600/Interstate_Highways.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="123" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitHEQc2lonXwpplaL_U47lng7nxWD3mcutZTo4utf26272OBv0jJcNpff6TVru_Z_a5FcOAZTPAmZQBxgEAW8iE3qmDyGRM4j_90Ok6_9krgxWmaM0N2vmWHxscnYtvn5PxQJt_mEtJ7nM/s200/Interstate_Highways.png" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">America's Interstate Highway<br />
System: Road Trip Nirvana</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Naturally, it's a lot more expensive nowadays with the price of gas so much higher than it was when I was younger, but a lot of the credit for who I am must be given to road trips I took in my late teens and early twenties. It gave me that sense of adventure and desire to just set out and explore, without a fixed plan or rigid itinerary. After high school, having grown up in Alabama, one of my best friends and I drove up the entire eastern coast of the United States and on into Canada. I saw New York for the first time, ate lobster on a small island off the coast of Connecticut, and crossed into a foreign country for the first time. Back then, passports weren't even required for Americans to go into Canada. It was subsequent road trips that first introduced me to Colorado and the Rocky Mountains, the place I'd come to call home and spend nearly all of my adult life. I've driven on both coasts, in New York, Chicago, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle, Boston... driven to Canada, Mexico, and in a few other foreign countries, too.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkas7VYX09OMKd_b9whv3EETwhVXY-6g2rFGmEhddGHk95ikien8uOKsUJZv1M8B7IKQVTb2gvU9jBwTGnXSF5qj8QSIIkqB172SwUQPt90c2rwW0RX7pDymHAMM3wA2YHrD_QkHIGuHKO/s1600/PenangMarathon2011Small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkas7VYX09OMKd_b9whv3EETwhVXY-6g2rFGmEhddGHk95ikien8uOKsUJZv1M8B7IKQVTb2gvU9jBwTGnXSF5qj8QSIIkqB172SwUQPt90c2rwW0RX7pDymHAMM3wA2YHrD_QkHIGuHKO/s1600/PenangMarathon2011Small.jpg" /></a>So it was with this mindset that I suggested a Malaysian road trip of sorts to my friends. Two of them were participating in the annual Penang Bridge Run, an international marathon that attracts thousands from all over the world to run across the 13.5-km Penang bridge, itself one of the world's longest. There are categories for a full marathon (42 km), a half marathon (21 km), and about a quarter marathon (10 km). My friends were doing the 10-km run, which started at 6 a.m. (The full marathon began at 2 a.m.) They invited me and some others along, so I booked us a two-bedroom suite a couple of months ago -- which even then was hard to come by since the race attracted a record 27,500 runners this year from 67 countries -- and then two of us planned to continue a road trip beyond Penang after our stay there.<br />
<br />
Everyone following this so far?<br />
<br />
So I proposed that we just head north from Penang, drive into Thailand, go wherever we felt like there, then come back to Malaysia, drive over to Kuala Perlis (at the very northern tip) and take the ferry to Langkawi. No real plans, no hotel reservations beyond Penang, just going where the road took us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQrWkipdMYQpCSgeWKGoMIMq9K_bYB-TDI4X-WEDY3dj3bj4HQh6pPGTLILTzhvZlrxITfve09hLBnqxVvrG84s1zY211YQ9ikrExgpoVR4BbyTSqIpSZ-cLoICyCD0PNYCGj3T4754r96/s1600/DSC_2812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQrWkipdMYQpCSgeWKGoMIMq9K_bYB-TDI4X-WEDY3dj3bj4HQh6pPGTLILTzhvZlrxITfve09hLBnqxVvrG84s1zY211YQ9ikrExgpoVR4BbyTSqIpSZ-cLoICyCD0PNYCGj3T4754r96/s320/DSC_2812.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the Gurney Drive Hawker Center</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So on the morning of the 19th, the five of us all met at a nearby McDonald's for breakfast, then set off for Penang afterwards. It's about a three-hour drive, and we had good weather, so it was easy. We arrived at our hotel in Bayan Lepas around midafternoon, got checked in and situated, rested for awhile, then went off in search of dinner. We decided to go to the hawker centers at Gurney Drive, which is in the heart of Georgetown. Even at the best of times, this stretch of roads is jam-packed, so it took us a long while to get there, find parking, and get to the food stalls. Look at the sea of people there! We all wandered off in search of different food. I waited in line for about 15 minutes to get an order of Penang's famous <i>char kuey teow</i>, truly one of my favorite dishes in Malaysia.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQWfRwFGyi2sh5nyvyZLRd-m-qbCfeo1R7KLdiGixOkjsrL6j7Ig5Xsh30O8Jh7vtb60y0_ruXDbyjbRJh9QBxKgDbXYO5LB0T_WSDIBjm1imEoKPCkxBs69_9G7dPMak3sZfvssuASB_O/s1600/DSC_2827.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQWfRwFGyi2sh5nyvyZLRd-m-qbCfeo1R7KLdiGixOkjsrL6j7Ig5Xsh30O8Jh7vtb60y0_ruXDbyjbRJh9QBxKgDbXYO5LB0T_WSDIBjm1imEoKPCkxBs69_9G7dPMak3sZfvssuASB_O/s320/DSC_2827.jpg" width="209" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Firing up an order of<br />
spicy <i>Char Kuey Teow</i> in the wok</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh0bbrwh5_-7nSfOr8pY8hGenS_T8yCsL9XEmCXa9YneUIWHhgjOjyHFQQeJ1CagJwFi7Z01ikW3drCzsRF7BcuHkI9MM_9F3P1X7OsgLcpCwFZWmIRSUBoW_OfJTk5UKv8zvDg1C-PL73/s1600/DSC_2844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh0bbrwh5_-7nSfOr8pY8hGenS_T8yCsL9XEmCXa9YneUIWHhgjOjyHFQQeJ1CagJwFi7Z01ikW3drCzsRF7BcuHkI9MM_9F3P1X7OsgLcpCwFZWmIRSUBoW_OfJTk5UKv8zvDg1C-PL73/s320/DSC_2844.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ivan and Cat at 5 a.m.,<br />
modeling their official racewear</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Owing to my awesomely giving nature, I generously agreed to wake up at 5 a.m. to drive Ivan and Cat, the two who were running in the race, to the place they needed to be to start their run. In retrospect, the hotel was actually fairly close to Queensbay Mall, so they could have actually walked (we saw many people doing just that), but really, who wants to walk 2-3 km to the starting point of a 10-km run?? Anyway, here they are with their official race shirts and everything. So we got to Queensbay and there were people everywhere. Now, keep in mind, the runners in the full and half marathons were already all well underway; only the 10-km and "fun run" participants were meeting at this time, and there were still thousands and thousands of them. They've been doing this annually since the bridge opened in 1985, and it's really well-publicized, but still, the nine-hour closure of the bridge causes problems for those unaware of the race. Last year, some 200 people missed flights because of it, quite a few of them international holidaymakers who had no idea the bridge would be closed. Since it's (at the time) the only connection to the mainland apart from painfully slow and infrequent ferries, the closure can be a real headache. They are currently building a second bridge to the island, though... we saw it to the south as we crossed the bridge to Penang. It's scheduled to be completed in September 2013, so in a couple of years, there will be an alternate route for motorists during the race closure.<br />
<br />
So Ivan and Cat both finished in the top half (or maybe top third) of their respective categories (10-km men, 10-km women), got their medals, and walked back to the hotel room, where all the rest of us were still very much passed out asleep. They napped for a bit after returning, and after we had all taken our respective showers and gotten packed, we checked out around 1 p.m. and once again, ventured in to Georgetown, and stopped at a seaside restaurant for some lunch. Then some of the group headed back to KL, while some of us went north to Thailand and the beginning of the <i>real </i>road trip.<br />
<br />
I had never been further north by car than the Penang Bridge exit on the North-South Highway, so for me, that's where the adventure really kicked in. Everything was fresh and new, although I must admit, the landscape looked the same. Ha ha. So we drove the two hours to the Thai border, coughed up even more money in tolls (the total bill for tolls on this trip was alarming... more on that later), and stopped at the big "Zon" duty-free shop, the same one that's in airports, that lies between the Malaysia and Thai borders. Officially, I think it's still in Malaysia, but it seems to exist in this sort of limbo, where you've sort of left Malaysia, but haven't technically entered Thailand yet. We popped in and I bought a 5-liter box of Australian wine, some Scotch whiskey, and a bottle of creme de cacao liqueur. Oh, and a couple of beers. I don't really drink beer here much (certainly not the local swill), but I do like to use it for cooking -- it's great for making breads and batters, but a single can is so expensive here, I never bother. Duty-free, however, a can of beer only costs about RM2, so I picked up two cans. Ivan headed straight for the chocolate and bought, I think, about a metric ton of it.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirDcVL46SnciikcxallSRwyiSA_NI-x9LjKDtY6rtlPE35auEbqO8qKNcvoo_C7S6gpscBxsDD9XV5tcr82brS0tIQnajjTmyU98mq6-r-yeGTzeNEQdQ_-g08uRuBQsIfaqZqRkCGXM_H/s1600/DSC_2852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirDcVL46SnciikcxallSRwyiSA_NI-x9LjKDtY6rtlPE35auEbqO8qKNcvoo_C7S6gpscBxsDD9XV5tcr82brS0tIQnajjTmyU98mq6-r-yeGTzeNEQdQ_-g08uRuBQsIfaqZqRkCGXM_H/s320/DSC_2852.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's the border crossing... luckily not too crowded</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After that, we proceeded on to the border, which is best described as a 50/50 blend of chaos and apathy. It was bizarre. There seemed to be no rhyme nor reason to the process... some people were just waved through, almost no one was stopped nor any car inspected, and yet we still had to do the whole thing twice to get it right. First we had to drive into Thailand and park behind this big building. Now technically at this point, we are fully in Thailand and could have just driven merrily on. There was no one to stop us (except a random monkey sitting there picking through the garbage, no joke). But we took our passports and documents to the walk-through section, took care of that, then went and got in the car to drive on in. However, at this time, there WAS an actual non-simian person there, who said we had to go around the other way. So we backtracked around behind the aforementioned building and drove <i>back </i>through one of the "entry" lanes, where we were directed to park (at the same place we had been before... sigh), and fill out more paperwork to bring the car into Thailand. Because of old tariff regulations that are still on the books, what you actually must do is "temporarily import a vehicle for the purpose of tourism." I had researched this ahead of time, so I knew to have the registration form with me. So the lady printed up the form while eating a piece of cake and dropping crumbs all over the book I had to sign (this was the apathy part of the blend), and once I signed that, agreeing in fact to re-export the car within 30 days or pay a big fine, we drove on into the border town of Dannok, just a couple of dozen kilometers south of Sadao. (As an interesting note, all the dates on the form were in Buddhist calendar form... I think this is year 2554 in the Buddhist era. So I was agreeing to export my car from Thailand before December 21, 2554.)<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSmsXv1O17q1f86xIOxvomVLSSQQVG5raFRyr8BK8Zz5EK_MM78WlhcqBjvFnSkhmCuYtuePvKc1mP32PctiL-ysaIggpTUY_Lr2VPWbX05Chg0x57E2XHCRKHhUNz_EiRzVIbqCqW3Hss/s1600/DSC_2858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSmsXv1O17q1f86xIOxvomVLSSQQVG5raFRyr8BK8Zz5EK_MM78WlhcqBjvFnSkhmCuYtuePvKc1mP32PctiL-ysaIggpTUY_Lr2VPWbX05Chg0x57E2XHCRKHhUNz_EiRzVIbqCqW3Hss/s320/DSC_2858.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Streetside in Dannok, Thailand</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now, Dannok itself is not on any map, but it has a bank, a bunch of shops, at least a dozen karaoke clubs (which are apparently just fronts for sex dens judging by the girls hanging around them), and a McDonald's, so it is a legitimate town. And like all border towns, it's a wild and fun place to hang out. We arrived just before sundown, so there was a palpable buzz of activity as everyone was rushing to get their business handled before darkness fell. We drove around, then parked and walked around, just taking it all in. The difference between Malaysia and Thailand is as extreme as the difference between Singapore and Malaysia at the southern border. Just as Singapore is financially leagues ahead of Malaysia, so too is Malaysia ahead of Thailand, and you can tell as you cross the border.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ZHOfOdgLYm4BK0TRDA96IanMCfH8wexu8089qjFYySVQCCPzQymAmPq7Mk92nv9LV7-Hrixdbmx1mFFqrvZTzRsm7rR_3AFTVq6qBDqRPiZN4AGnmpq1M9mPfcEwGP23g2YjeiGAWM5P/s1600/DSC_2854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ZHOfOdgLYm4BK0TRDA96IanMCfH8wexu8089qjFYySVQCCPzQymAmPq7Mk92nv9LV7-Hrixdbmx1mFFqrvZTzRsm7rR_3AFTVq6qBDqRPiZN4AGnmpq1M9mPfcEwGP23g2YjeiGAWM5P/s320/DSC_2854.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Excuse me, sir? Sir? I'm gonna have to ask you to<br />
move your elephant."</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We hadn't been in Thailand for ten minutes when we saw our first elephant being "parked" in front of the bank, right next to all the motorbikes. I half-expected to see an "Elephant Parking Only" sign there. Awhile later, we had ventured off the main road and, quite by accident, stumbled on this open-air restaurant that was doing brisk business. Their sign proclaimed an all-you-can-eat buffet for a ridiculously cheap 119 Baht. One of the great things about traveling in Thailand is that the Thai Baht usually runs at about 10:1 to the Malaysian Ringgit, so it makes currency conversion very easy. Thus, 119 Baht is RM11.90 (about US$3.75). We had also seen this little food stall selling crabs, and we were really leaning towards having crabs for dinner, but their price was really quite high. Why are crabs always so expensive? They're not rare, they're easy to catch, and even easier to cook. But for some reason, no matter where you go, things like crabs and shrimp cost a bomb. Anyway, for quite a bit less than the cost of one kilo of crabs (four medium-sized ones), we could have two buffets at the other place, so we opted for that and headed back there. In the end, it was a great decision.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj4jtBogF64RPQVfRuDQBfb2w8KY7jLBUkNsk1x5jIrf1D_3zlXjKPli7UUVTrc5lzpW5kXSkQOA7rw2y7jSjiG3QbAKveLVZKCoSdFUmkf1L17KqQx1uaIHg9JB96YJRMYhr3XoxpSPCf/s1600/DSC_2878.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj4jtBogF64RPQVfRuDQBfb2w8KY7jLBUkNsk1x5jIrf1D_3zlXjKPli7UUVTrc5lzpW5kXSkQOA7rw2y7jSjiG3QbAKveLVZKCoSdFUmkf1L17KqQx1uaIHg9JB96YJRMYhr3XoxpSPCf/s320/DSC_2878.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sliced pork belly... otherwise known as BACON!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Steamboats are a popular way to eat here in Malaysia. A pot of simmering broth, usually spicy, is served over a propane-fueled fire at your table, and an assortment of seafood and vegetables are provided for cooking in the soup. This buffet was similar in some ways, but quite different in others. First, the fire wasn't fueled by gas, but rather a big clay kettle of flaming coals, which was delivered to the table and placed in a cut-out in the center. Then, an aluminum shield was placed over the fire. This shield has a raised portion for grilling, and a "moat" around that for the broth, which was delivered in a big kettle, so we could replenish the broth during the course of the meal. A little trolley for drinks and a bucket of ice was delivered and parked next to the table. Then you just help yourself to the buffet line of chilled meats and other goodies -- fish balls, crab sticks, etc. The meats were amazing... thin-sliced beef and pork belly (bacon!), three types of marinated chicken meat, boneless fish fillets, and some other stuff that, lacking any signage to identify it, we skipped (I'm guessing various organs -- liver and such... yikes). It was all super-cold, so I give them props for handling the meat properly. Indeed, it was so cold, the meat slices were freezing together, so I would just extricate a chunk of beef with about 10-15 slices and within a couple of minutes on my tray at the table, it thawed to the point of easy separation. There was another buffet table loaded with fresh produce, too... <i>kangkong</i>, <i>kailan</i>, oyster and straw mushrooms, noodles, and more. There was yet another table with six different types of sauces, all freshly made. And if none of those tickled your fancy, there was a station where you could make your own... all the traditional Thai ingredients from garlic to chilies to limes to shallots and more... and a big mortar and pestle so you could pound your spices fresh-to-order. There was even a container of fresh coconut milk for making curries if you wanted. It was brilliant. We only got two of the six sauces, but they were both absolutely amazing.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqMVuumJN3hdoANWqiwb609Yfv3Eq6oGAq_Tt2sYGeGKLCpoq96M_m0S5-R3V-oP2FNIZ0Z8KrBKBL514yehe_NevZZf_df8hOCDZwcxqwHzLv9OOAFvxUvmRs_yF517R2B653IHRbtGrn/s1600/DSC_2879.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqMVuumJN3hdoANWqiwb609Yfv3Eq6oGAq_Tt2sYGeGKLCpoq96M_m0S5-R3V-oP2FNIZ0Z8KrBKBL514yehe_NevZZf_df8hOCDZwcxqwHzLv9OOAFvxUvmRs_yF517R2B653IHRbtGrn/s320/DSC_2879.jpg" width="235" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting to be cooked</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIDtB6fY_Bxhelh5QYcCKbeFBw39Hzdi_wv_KYbViCbSllz_aHzlNwj6AcTWxKUMopBAsAhWA7Qfo6i3tYRnYA6ajyG9-X2e2j34VFhyphenhyphenkJHo4xVZ21JmTQdSMe0zGIRlbCtzzay1qHsZ6V/s1600/DSC_2880.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIDtB6fY_Bxhelh5QYcCKbeFBw39Hzdi_wv_KYbViCbSllz_aHzlNwj6AcTWxKUMopBAsAhWA7Qfo6i3tYRnYA6ajyG9-X2e2j34VFhyphenhyphenkJHo4xVZ21JmTQdSMe0zGIRlbCtzzay1qHsZ6V/s320/DSC_2880.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A portrait of happiness on aluminum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So we loaded up our trays with food and sat down to start cooking. Now, unfortunately, this picture doesn't really make it all look very appetizing. For whatever reason, it doesn't convey the heat and sizzle of the grill. But it was definitely hot... and the beef and bacon slices were our favorites. And as the meal wore on, the grill became coated with a thin layer of burned fats and juicy bits, most of which dribbled down into the moat full of broth. Towards the end of the meal, as you would expect, the broth was spectacularly flavorful. We couldn't stop eating. The <i>kailan</i>, cooked until tender in the broth, was simply the best I've ever had. So we sat there for over three hours, just enjoying a wonderful meal at a price that, quite simply, almost defied belief. At the end, we got some fresh watermelon and tossed it in our ice bucket to chill it down, then ate that as our dessert. We could barely walk when we finished, but we waddled back to the car, then drove back to the main street and found a nice, but basic, hotel for RM38 (about US$11.90). They offered free covered car parking, free WiFi in the rooms (wow), hot water, and air conditioning (in fact, the air-con unit in our room was brand-new). Amusingly, it had started raining by that time, and we had gotten our bags out of the car under the covered parking, and I was looking for my umbrella. After searching feverishly for 2-3 minutes and finally locating it deep under the passenger seat, literally as I popped it open, the rain stopped. I mean <i>totally </i>stopped. Nothing like being cruelly mocked by Mother Nature!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_TDsttYuZTi0z92CUFitOvXq-IkiNhfcmMaqQyUHr0Rta9EWSdfmeKVHkoKDTPD1q1bQUjhwxmjzDY5hhRe0Hx7QXt11hHaLl4FT-iU3Y6_SDUXwZMgMUJrXghiSlCsBa61ecKOz7oGlr/s1600/DSC_2900e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_TDsttYuZTi0z92CUFitOvXq-IkiNhfcmMaqQyUHr0Rta9EWSdfmeKVHkoKDTPD1q1bQUjhwxmjzDY5hhRe0Hx7QXt11hHaLl4FT-iU3Y6_SDUXwZMgMUJrXghiSlCsBa61ecKOz7oGlr/s200/DSC_2900e.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Dannok McDonald's...<br />
Probably the nicest place in town</td></tr>
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The next morning, we finally got up and moving around 11 or 12 (Thailand is an hour behind Malaysia), and went to the rather nice McDonald's next door to the hotel. Ivan had seen their sign advertising "Corn Pies" and gotten himself all worked into a lather to try one. In the end, he got two, and a giant iced coffee. The McDonald's (McDonald'ses?) in Malaysia do not sell this Corn Pie, so he was super keen to try it. I had a couple of bites, and it was indeed delicious... very crispy and flaky. Even better than their Apple Pie. We later talked to a girl here in KL who works for corporate McDonald's and learned that the pie is not certified <i>halal </i>for whatever reason, so it's not served in Malaysia for that reason. It's not like it has pork in it, obviously, but something about it doesn't meet Malaysia's standards for <i>halal </i>certification, and since the McDonald's here are all <i>halal</i> restaurants, there are no corn pies. Sad, because they're really good, and given Malaysians' penchant for eating sweet corn as a dessert item, would doubtlessly sell very well.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5JBLp4ISC-w_bDBGrmyvsJztUrl-N5q1qIuUBziSUuM6wQd_cJb-SBZJgjZ3PJYKO5iyY002JRCjuUAJeW4oiCaRQpNwlU2uUROD6pRPRV-oihNa137ctu2pdf_rBz4HnCCc-RoJu9KDQ/s1600/DSC_2883.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5JBLp4ISC-w_bDBGrmyvsJztUrl-N5q1qIuUBziSUuM6wQd_cJb-SBZJgjZ3PJYKO5iyY002JRCjuUAJeW4oiCaRQpNwlU2uUROD6pRPRV-oihNa137ctu2pdf_rBz4HnCCc-RoJu9KDQ/s320/DSC_2883.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ivan and his Corn Pies</td></tr>
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<br />
We drove a bit further into Thailand, but ultimately decided not to go all the way to Hat Yai, a good-sized city (Thailand's fourth-largest) about an hour north. So we turned around, drove back into Malaysia (which we had to do twice because, once again owing to the apathy part of the blend, the immigration folks couldn't be bothered to stamp our passports or collect our immigration cards as we exited Thailand). We also had to "export" my car, too, which consisted of handing the form back in. Then it was finally back to Malaysia.<br />
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Shortly after crossing the border, we took the new highway from Changlun to Kuala Perlis, stopping along the way to photograph some of the rice paddy fields. It was really a nice bit of scenery.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS-2EfB56C_l_y5eCzSxExL8KilE6z7qzINfIYLEiYbW3usnBpIGRQJv1yQ-GyAQRuvSPYJ4d0Dc8eAsQRNzRqeRPT7LLOXYXxv5Yqhtt9nYtFFSOT5_aCP-HfDFIATXEmvfOUCn6yteoH/s1600/DSC_2905.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS-2EfB56C_l_y5eCzSxExL8KilE6z7qzINfIYLEiYbW3usnBpIGRQJv1yQ-GyAQRuvSPYJ4d0Dc8eAsQRNzRqeRPT7LLOXYXxv5Yqhtt9nYtFFSOT5_aCP-HfDFIATXEmvfOUCn6yteoH/s400/DSC_2905.jpg" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking north towards Thailand</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcuxAd-m-Td66f9qtrEOf4YJ9ypvkY-CokC-wX49XEt7EgerqWuYkHPVcAvbd44GDm10clb6bIemFd6B0J25iZcKU2i3jBIlzJXXezyrajf_roUHoeOMReHJJiTkv4rZqmHfJmQJ6UtLWG/s1600/DSC_2902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcuxAd-m-Td66f9qtrEOf4YJ9ypvkY-CokC-wX49XEt7EgerqWuYkHPVcAvbd44GDm10clb6bIemFd6B0J25iZcKU2i3jBIlzJXXezyrajf_roUHoeOMReHJJiTkv4rZqmHfJmQJ6UtLWG/s400/DSC_2902.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So much GREEN... everywhere we looked</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC4X1GhtwfiFqskdsuYOWBJrBFsj4XNYALg1T7bl3l5QcHCNiP15PsSc0a_oUS8OsztYCWZhiFHtIoxK5chnD_iAvyCKhQ4nf16yInokHk8cbEalkb1-Mhsj9cAFlq3XubAW2p0NdzDyfI/s1600/DSC_2913.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC4X1GhtwfiFqskdsuYOWBJrBFsj4XNYALg1T7bl3l5QcHCNiP15PsSc0a_oUS8OsztYCWZhiFHtIoxK5chnD_iAvyCKhQ4nf16yInokHk8cbEalkb1-Mhsj9cAFlq3XubAW2p0NdzDyfI/s400/DSC_2913.jpg" width="292" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love these flattened-looking trees!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTjrik87LJ5JK59fNOy4iEpzE9h3us97uOdD2NBZKQevqbdHoIL9Ag2oU__Jtr0i4ZQ3k90BjnX4o1JcLCpX5EZ8J062uAeK47Q5Lj5r_bKVDtliHTj9-5_A-QW29vKsMQ5zJZ5edYbeqP/s1600/DSC_2916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTjrik87LJ5JK59fNOy4iEpzE9h3us97uOdD2NBZKQevqbdHoIL9Ag2oU__Jtr0i4ZQ3k90BjnX4o1JcLCpX5EZ8J062uAeK47Q5Lj5r_bKVDtliHTj9-5_A-QW29vKsMQ5zJZ5edYbeqP/s320/DSC_2916.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Awaiting the ferry to Langkawi</td></tr>
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Once we got to Kuala Perlis, a small seaside town very near the Thai border, we found a very muddy spot to leave my car, and took a couple of overnight bags and walked to the jetty and bought tickets for the 6 p.m. ferry to Langkawi, which takes about 70 minutes and costs RM18. You can see the general bedlam here in the waiting area. This was only half of the area... the whole boat was filled, I think... about 400 people. The seats were jammed in there like an AirAsia flight, too. Fortunately, Ivan and I both passed out and napped very shortly after the ferry got underway and woke up just as we were steaming into the waters around Langkawi.<br />
<br />
This was my third time to Langkawi, maybe my fourth... I can't recall. It's a nice place to visit... quiet, nice beaches, lots of history and legend to learn about, and a big enough island to spend a few days exploring. As it turns out, we only stayed one night, but I think it'd be fun to go back and spend more time there and really wander around.<br />
<br />
As we got off the boat, we were accosted by a swarm of taxi drivers, naturally, but one of the guys asked if we wanted to rent a car, which we did. I told him I wanted to spend about RM60-70, and he said that was fine. So we went to the big jetty arrival/departure building (it's like a small airport but without planes... restaurants, duty-free shops, the works) and waited for the car to be delivered. Once it arrived, we put our stuff in the back, I got in and sat down and looked at the utter despair of this vehicle, which I think was a mid-90s model of Proton that isn't even made anymore. Even in the dark, it looked pathetic. Honestly, my old Tiara was in better condition. So I actually got out, chased the rental people down and told them that this car simply wouldn't do. It was just a <i>total </i>piece of sad crap. So they made some phone calls and procured a much better Nissan Sentra for us. It cost a little more, but was totally worth it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtMfETiNGF1-betng5i3IMWUZvj3gt77XTtFcvsg24Hn1GtfaQVOKOE5tEWLeX3f_iw8d6fTwl3uXpFZDTbQ4salZkbWbE4pgymxXdgtx-GX69AZto50RldTnwlVKxtN-zihyphenhyphenVSWbzj5_2/s1600/DSC_3002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtMfETiNGF1-betng5i3IMWUZvj3gt77XTtFcvsg24Hn1GtfaQVOKOE5tEWLeX3f_iw8d6fTwl3uXpFZDTbQ4salZkbWbE4pgymxXdgtx-GX69AZto50RldTnwlVKxtN-zihyphenhyphenVSWbzj5_2/s200/DSC_3002.jpg" width="105" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RM29! Yes!!</td></tr>
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We went to the main town, Kuah, and hit the duty-free shops (Langkawi is a duty-free island), where once again, Ivan zeroed in on the chocolates, and I went for the booze. I scored a liter of Bacardi rum for a scant RM29 (just over US$9). A liter of Bacardi in KL costs upwards of RM150. We then ate a light dinner at a local restaurant -- just had fried noodles and Japanese beer (Sapporo... RM3 there, RM13-15 in KL). Then it was off to find a hotel. It didn't take us long to find a place... and it was only RM60 per night. Most unfortunately, as we discovered later, our room was over a karaoke bar and we had to endure a carousel of horrible, delusional "singers" drunkenly wailing into the microphone until 3 a.m. Unsurprisingly, it was pretty easy to drift off to sleep after they closed down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9mYxpGswyNZ1T7qBdYxDhF_dNYtO18eNEa4x7EmzQ2W77aD2MIbcOF0vq3hnAyJsB7nDxWSCgnfud8WUUUKEJP4lm6eF1OHWkT2ZgWKRXZJbyJfBID3PXqLBoQJvfiaQCszrtmzSmhslQ/s1600/DSC_2922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9mYxpGswyNZ1T7qBdYxDhF_dNYtO18eNEa4x7EmzQ2W77aD2MIbcOF0vq3hnAyJsB7nDxWSCgnfud8WUUUKEJP4lm6eF1OHWkT2ZgWKRXZJbyJfBID3PXqLBoQJvfiaQCszrtmzSmhslQ/s200/DSC_2922.jpg" width="152" /></a>The next day consisted of wandering the beach (Pantai Cenang), having pizza at Artisan's Cafe, shopping, and going to the really amazing Langkawi Cable Car and Sky Bridge at about 3 p.m. For whatever reason, I had never been there before, but I'm glad that's no longer the case. Very much worth the price of admission (RM30 for me, RM15 for Malaysians). It was completed in 2003 and is really an amazing piece of engineering. The steepest incline is <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 18px;">42°, </span>one of the steepest in the world, and the longest free span of cable, which is almost alarming to behold from above, is a staggering 950m, which is over 3,100 feet long without any support. The Sky Bridge, which is accessible via a short walk down a steep forest-surrounded series of steps from the top of the cable car, is equally impressive. It's a single-point, side-spar cable-stayed bridge, that's dramatically curved and terminated on each end with a triangular viewing platform. At 650m (2,145 ft.) above sea level, the views of the sea, the numerous islands, and the forested peaks of Langkawi, are spectacular. We were really lucky with the weather... just enough clouds to lend interest and impact to the blue sky, without obscuring any of the land. I'll just post a series of pictures here, most of which need to be clicked on and enlarged to be fully appreciated...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDEPEFajl2PnHSR0eawopGpVqWQoNekT37UfKpl6O2MYinz30D8BIHKJYbVdu0BgimI8AegCj5GtKPZZwd3djcGPew8AeXDhrb3XBwgITSMTY5gdd_-X52e2yzlFxC04M9J31jzg8jgvya/s1600/DSC_2927.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDEPEFajl2PnHSR0eawopGpVqWQoNekT37UfKpl6O2MYinz30D8BIHKJYbVdu0BgimI8AegCj5GtKPZZwd3djcGPew8AeXDhrb3XBwgITSMTY5gdd_-X52e2yzlFxC04M9J31jzg8jgvya/s400/DSC_2927.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue sky and clear water at Pantai Cenang</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeD17cdMeH2LkJSb-oq6IV1GxWw_hV8-LOrkgPyf7cxwZOlZyyd8JdA7DZNybOlx8_XnNIR0E_s31gxaC24sMKsMWdJ1BCZtiMZ4GQzbaeikRhFtSRrvEfTPqGghghIg_mrVn-ID7hKweG/s1600/DSC_2942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeD17cdMeH2LkJSb-oq6IV1GxWw_hV8-LOrkgPyf7cxwZOlZyyd8JdA7DZNybOlx8_XnNIR0E_s31gxaC24sMKsMWdJ1BCZtiMZ4GQzbaeikRhFtSRrvEfTPqGghghIg_mrVn-ID7hKweG/s400/DSC_2942.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At one of my favorite streetside cafes, Artisan's...<br />
pretty good pizzas here!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-f-whL1GcmKeXg3x108ldAU8J7d12-Qr2b7r-VjiKHFJWWb4CLk2bTW416yoA4KZ7pOBI9zB6sGu5cRJHrFFYclxiNxUrsa5sQgwHSD7Y0areHJ8NfWGPWu2NgDFfvlZOkGR-izR_sppv/s1600/DSC_2964.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-f-whL1GcmKeXg3x108ldAU8J7d12-Qr2b7r-VjiKHFJWWb4CLk2bTW416yoA4KZ7pOBI9zB6sGu5cRJHrFFYclxiNxUrsa5sQgwHSD7Y0areHJ8NfWGPWu2NgDFfvlZOkGR-izR_sppv/s400/DSC_2964.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cable car ride (left) over the forest canopy</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9_zmmgKM9vknEwepgV1sgaueohqT2186bXhlsYxOZaat9V7od1z3e56OFydOmmmeh2tlLGrxS__v4pknaHKWnEn9ph363kx9ADebjdTth9yQRNjkzZFLX3yGtuEde3CrnOty_DJlS_QBM/s1600/DSC_2972.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9_zmmgKM9vknEwepgV1sgaueohqT2186bXhlsYxOZaat9V7od1z3e56OFydOmmmeh2tlLGrxS__v4pknaHKWnEn9ph363kx9ADebjdTth9yQRNjkzZFLX3yGtuEde3CrnOty_DJlS_QBM/s400/DSC_2972.jpg" width="343" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's the drama: The 42-degree plunge along a<br />
nearly 1-km length of unsupported cable</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuaJfLFQg9a_BjZ9mORPFXPlBZJsNTx3GgJBM2x6vMEMErmG0YCgn-mcndL4Wpps5URLineiSYolglJk65n4zZSeNAaTrTSjHwl62UHhugX2aQcEqpU9tLpafZliZ-J1W4JRLo9mrVUpCa/s1600/DSC_2979.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuaJfLFQg9a_BjZ9mORPFXPlBZJsNTx3GgJBM2x6vMEMErmG0YCgn-mcndL4Wpps5URLineiSYolglJk65n4zZSeNAaTrTSjHwl62UHhugX2aQcEqpU9tLpafZliZ-J1W4JRLo9mrVUpCa/s400/DSC_2979.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Andaman Sea and a handful of islands in the distance,<br />
from the Middle Station of the Cable Car ride</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiARFeLFINDIGdCkKgr4yw1eCknDsneKcYQga00e9gNE3XoCQGbTwqpE8ksA3TTsjU1O34-v1g6ml2w5D8PytAfMMKZ3FJjoV4XdQTYyIMwBxVVhUSXnsiVGTZQ78mcMkUWS_kR_ihJgt7Y/s1600/DSC_2981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiARFeLFINDIGdCkKgr4yw1eCknDsneKcYQga00e9gNE3XoCQGbTwqpE8ksA3TTsjU1O34-v1g6ml2w5D8PytAfMMKZ3FJjoV4XdQTYyIMwBxVVhUSXnsiVGTZQ78mcMkUWS_kR_ihJgt7Y/s400/DSC_2981.jpg" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching the Sky Bridge:<br />
<b>Not </b>a place for acrophobes</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVAfebouDcnsqdgH3CfidA0ye6KMD3toiIRX5NlJtMouDBkRkygSuXWSStiNiq1jmA78ZHkuEssSG3NjQzr7qwA3G-jsbQzdsnmkA0uELQkE3wMhthaZjtiwgGnsWK9HzkpZAL5IraZ0K/s1600/DSC_2992.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVAfebouDcnsqdgH3CfidA0ye6KMD3toiIRX5NlJtMouDBkRkygSuXWSStiNiq1jmA78ZHkuEssSG3NjQzr7qwA3G-jsbQzdsnmkA0uELQkE3wMhthaZjtiwgGnsWK9HzkpZAL5IraZ0K/s400/DSC_2992.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking out on the horizontal cable section between the<br />
Middle Station and Top Station</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A full view of the amazing Sky Bridge from<br />the Cable Car as we began our descent</td></tr>
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After spending a couple of hours at the Cable Car and Sky Bridge, we meandered back to Kuah and the jetty, so we could catch the final 7 p.m. ferry back to the mainland.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from the jetty as we boarded the ferry</td></tr>
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We reclaimed my car, a muddy, filthy mess by this time, and headed east on the highway back to Changlun. There, we stopped for a dinner break, then got back on the road, which soon joined the proper North-South Highway, and the extortionate tolls recommenced. All told, we spent about RM125 in tolls and another RM200+ on gas. But what a fun trip! Oh, and on the five-hour journey from the northern extreme of Peninsular Malaysia back down to the KL area, it literally rained the entire time. The good news, though, is that my car was considerably cleaner when we arrived back home than it was when we left Kuala Perlis!<br />
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So on the road trip, because I've always found it important to note such details, we logged 1,069 km, or about 640 miles. It was definitely an enjoyable experience... one I'd certainly repeat, this time maybe going further into Thailand and/or staying longer on Langkawi!<br />
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Coming soon... a three-week trip back home to Colorado for Christmas and New Year's. I can't believe 2011 is almost over!<br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-49583664933540758512011-11-14T09:25:00.001-07:002011-11-16T12:33:23.613-07:00Window Panes... oops, I mean Windows Pains<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Well, at least this time I have an excuse for the delay in posting a new entry. I have two computers here in KL with me: a full-size laptop and a portable netbook. Over the course of a single weekend, both of them developed problems that rendered them unusable. The netbook's problem was easy enough to spot: the keyboard stopped working properly. I'd press "C" and get "y1k" or something on the screen. Probably 30-35% of the keys don't work at all now. I have no idea what caused this, but after a few days of not really doing anything about it, I hooked up an external USB keyboard so I could at least log in. The larger laptop started freezing and crashing at just about the same time, too. I'd been wanting to upgrade the operating system for quite awhile anyway (it's the truly awful Windows Vista), so this seemed as good a time as any. My plan was to back up everything I could, then take the whole computer to Low Yat Plaza in KL, a nightmarish rats' nest of tech-related shops densely packed into an aging five-story mall in the Bukit Bintang area (truly hell on earth during the weekends) and have them wipe the hard drive and install Windows 7. One of my friends here works in the computer industry, though, so he told me he could give me a copy of the operating system. So I took the money I'd have spent buying the OS here (considerably less, actually) and bought a new hard drive altogether, upgrading from 160 to 500GB and increasing the disk speed from 5400 to 7200 rpm, both pretty significant upgrades. Oddly enough, hard drives are among the few electronic items that are cheaper here than in the States. Usually, Americans enjoy a substantial cost savings on almost anything in the consumer electronics realm, but this exact hard drive was RM220 here, and when converted to Ringgit, RM375 in the US.<br />
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Unfortunately, the Nvidia video card that's part of my laptop does not work and play well with Windows 7 in this laptop's configuration, so I've been busily trying to find a working driver that will both avoid crashes and allow me to take full advantage of all the nifty Windows 7 visual goodies. It's been a giant pain, to say the least.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXhmXMfHAq-mvRyYxoAE3mHALwmgAygpNc1M-ugVhCT1HN5HktQJfgyM_33KabX3LnCbWJbbW18EJX2pHZgdSawDZNBfPITESGv6WM9O4Ce5VvV-JgPNUfQEkmUbMYi6iWUMpNXnT7di52/s1600/DSC_2747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXhmXMfHAq-mvRyYxoAE3mHALwmgAygpNc1M-ugVhCT1HN5HktQJfgyM_33KabX3LnCbWJbbW18EJX2pHZgdSawDZNBfPITESGv6WM9O4Ce5VvV-JgPNUfQEkmUbMYi6iWUMpNXnT7di52/s320/DSC_2747.jpg" width="317" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another rainy afternoon at the pool (view from my balcony)</td></tr>
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Meanwhile, we're very much in the rainy season here in KL now. It rains almost every day at one point or another (sometimes two or three times). We've had a couple of wild thunderstorms, too, which are always fun. We've also been enjoying relatively cooler weather. My electric bill, which has never even hit RM40 in a month here, dropped to a preposterous RM23 last month. I very seldom turn on the air conditioners here and it's reflected in the energy bill. I think if it's under RM20, you don't even have to pay at all... not sure about that, but that's what I hear.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVy6mgqdeqznWcumRq1c9fSCjFIL0cyf7VlI0JxcCw_JGLmDInYl1KCoLd1HLHBlKnWVFqk35X3KRjKBh6U4mxe_38aoefvH1lV0lG59acuqPc818ujzTIpz_sVA3TVskeGNlBgh611z-/s1600/Clipboard01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVy6mgqdeqznWcumRq1c9fSCjFIL0cyf7VlI0JxcCw_JGLmDInYl1KCoLd1HLHBlKnWVFqk35X3KRjKBh6U4mxe_38aoefvH1lV0lG59acuqPc818ujzTIpz_sVA3TVskeGNlBgh611z-/s200/Clipboard01.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penang to Hat Yai... oh boy!</td></tr>
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This weekend promises to be interesting. Two of my friends are participating in a 10K run across the Penang Bridge, so a group of five of us are going up to Penang for the weekend for that. The day after the run, a couple of us will continue north up into Thailand, something I've certainly never done before (driving into Thailand). From that point, we're just treating it as a road trip, really not specifically planning anything. We may venture as far as Hat Yai, or just explore the general southern Thailand area, then return to Malaysia, where we have given thought to driving to Kuala Perlis (extreme northern Malaysia) and taking the ferry to Langkawi for a day or two (and stocking up on some duty-free goodies). I'm not sure exactly when we'll be back to KL, but probably by the middle of next week. Should be an adventure, and I'll certainly take my camera!<br />
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I'm finding that having all the free time associated with working only part-time (and extremely part-time at that; usually only 5-6 hours a week) is kind of boring. I like work and like structure, so I've started looking for full-time work again... would be nice to have something to start in January or after Chinese New Year, which would push it to February.<br />
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One of my friends (who is also a photography buff) and I went to Taman Tasik Perdana a couple of weeks back... it's definitely a nice place in the city to find some relative tranquility and plenty of photo ops. We then hit KLCC and wandered around the park and briefly inside the mall (where I saw a huge sign completely mangling an English phrase). I'll wrap this up with some pictures and will write another entry after the upcoming trip.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This shot of a colorful hibiscus flower serves as<br />the wallpaper on my poor struggling laptop</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yeah, the Petronas Towers are still there... here's the usual shot</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMMcAfR4ixE3bAw6dl-dMDoZcJGhaJCbkN9nmEpX5B29rosgvujikQdeAyWjlIjFM87hgLIz3ZmKtqnGchbG2g4ipr-7PyD1LkWgk_n0L4X2T5A7zf-Q3PmZ6P1MMwHzHx2PZn9FplKOY/s1600/DSC_2711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMMcAfR4ixE3bAw6dl-dMDoZcJGhaJCbkN9nmEpX5B29rosgvujikQdeAyWjlIjFM87hgLIz3ZmKtqnGchbG2g4ipr-7PyD1LkWgk_n0L4X2T5A7zf-Q3PmZ6P1MMwHzHx2PZn9FplKOY/s320/DSC_2711.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here's a not-so-usual view of the towers in one of the park's reflecting balls.<br />It's a shame the surface of the sphere is etched and marred; otherwise, I think<br />this would be a really cool shot.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is just sad. This is a floor-to-ceiling sign (a new<br />candy store is opening soon in KLCC). Did it not occur to anyone<br />that this doesn't make a bit of sense? Just change the "heavy"<br />to "heaven" and that's the phrase they were looking for.</td></tr>
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<br />Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5873497718154611645.post-21422787268297903072011-09-24T08:09:00.000-06:002011-10-15T12:40:43.057-06:00Cherating and Impiana Resort: Finally, my first visit to the East Coast!<br />
Though the vast majority of Peninsular Malaysia's population lives on the western side of the peninsula, it's the east that unquestionably has the best beaches. Even discounting the breathtaking postcard-perfect beaches on the islands of the Perhentians, Redang, and others off the east coast, the actual coast of the mainland itself has beaches that surpass almost any to be found on the west coast.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLj5xxDChky-tG0g_i6ULpo-pHeWpwPWyrR6zEo_hRiq53HVCke_I6xm0tYZ9Zpo07uZnC4ELWm2dUVyH4Oni8bJWNLvFu3XR2aCxCot5YSQjcPwbOz0LkNdMUGFH8Njm_Yhv7SQDNlxw/s1600/DSC_2448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLj5xxDChky-tG0g_i6ULpo-pHeWpwPWyrR6zEo_hRiq53HVCke_I6xm0tYZ9Zpo07uZnC4ELWm2dUVyH4Oni8bJWNLvFu3XR2aCxCot5YSQjcPwbOz0LkNdMUGFH8Njm_Yhv7SQDNlxw/s320/DSC_2448.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking north along the beach towards the headland<br />
(taken from Impiana Resort)</td></tr>
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The small town of Cherating, in Pahang state, an easy three-hour drive from KL, doesn't have the best beaches, not by a long shot, but the beach is still quite nice. Clean water, gentle surf, and a charming, laid-back atmosphere in the village all lend themselves to the appeal of this long-established backpackers' spot. In three years of living in Malaysia, I had yet to venture across the peninsula over to the east coast, which at KL's latitude is only 145 miles (235 km) across. One of my friends from Singapore was up in KL visiting for a week, so we decided awhile back to take a few days and check out Cherating. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbCaP6hwdwDwLTXixewGkWq17MNG9rKa668FcoiM36EugtWYPbOTLF0nmM9pC4eF4kw3uxTNY1X9BJvVltmaMdhdTpXPGaFt-SzjNr3PvA5xb_ZqF91ulNapFzEohILdR9XP-nwzowAvBI/s1600/DSC_1543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbCaP6hwdwDwLTXixewGkWq17MNG9rKa668FcoiM36EugtWYPbOTLF0nmM9pC4eF4kw3uxTNY1X9BJvVltmaMdhdTpXPGaFt-SzjNr3PvA5xb_ZqF91ulNapFzEohILdR9XP-nwzowAvBI/s320/DSC_1543.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From bottom to top: Pineapples, durian, and longans</td></tr>
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We left the haze and congestion of KL after a midday dim sum meal and headed east, hoping for clearer skies, which we found! The drive over was easy enough, using the seamless tandem of the Karak Highway (which can be dangerous owing to crazy drivers trying to negotiate the hairpin curves too quickly as the road crests the spine of the peninsula's highlands) and the East Coast Expressway (Lebuhraya Pantai Timur). One cool thing about driving on the highways here is the R&R plazas (that doesn't stand for "rest and relax," though it stands for Malay words that roughly mean the same thing, <i>rehat </i>(rest)<i> </i>and <i>rawat </i>(recreation)), most of which have a fresh fruit stand or two. Look at these pineapples... so big! Anyway, tolls for the whole one-way journey totaled RM31, which is about what I expected. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJPkS8pxN-tMBfJoS6KIONl6zg0ZYKhsClIA7mGXQ8ritXaxK4F5JYzvKM-gBXYff5Mtzy-gHX3Oz2J-uRFseig2jCxH6ThCFFxnONf6ptF9pcmiRWQM8TcJiYmUyJJbmQwil0pe3JHI1Y/s1600/DSC_2363.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJPkS8pxN-tMBfJoS6KIONl6zg0ZYKhsClIA7mGXQ8ritXaxK4F5JYzvKM-gBXYff5Mtzy-gHX3Oz2J-uRFseig2jCxH6ThCFFxnONf6ptF9pcmiRWQM8TcJiYmUyJJbmQwil0pe3JHI1Y/s320/DSC_2363.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The suitably grand lobby at Impiana Resort</td></tr>
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We stayed at the Impiana Resort, right on the beach. It was a nice place, though showing its age a bit. However, for the price (RM189/US$63++ per night, including breakfast buffet for two), it really was quite okay... I'd give it a 7 of 10 overall! The room was comfortable and clean, the food at the restaurant was pretty good, the pool was nice (although it inexplicably closed at 7 pm each evening), and the service was... well, you can't expect too much, right? It's still Malaysia, after all. On that note, I read something recently that a former Malaysian prime minister said. He lamented the fact that while Malaysia can afford first-class infrastructure, it remains mired in third-world mentality when it comes to understanding things like planning, service, and maintenance. Obviously this great truth is manifested spectacularly in the epic traffic jams of KL and Penang, but the service component is a major factor, too. In restaurants, in hotels, in shops and stores, there is simply a near-total lack of service. It apparently isn't expected, isn't demanded, and isn't provided. Here we were in a supposedly classy 4-star resort, and we weren't even escorted to our rooms, nor greeted upon arrival as we drove up under the porte-cochère. As for maintenance, I see the absence of that even here at my condo. Even though it's a reasonably nice, upscale place, there are numerous lights burned out around the grounds, and one lamppost that's perilously close to toppling over altogether. I think someone ran into it with their car. It could easily be remedied, but I can guarantee everyone that it won't be. And honestly, how hard is it to replace light bulbs? So the Prime Minister nailed it. But if the head of state can see such things and not effect change, obviously it's far beyond my power to do so... and so, like most Malaysians, I just tolerate it.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMv3be6kX6ll9iIikVCYdE6zOTeu6g107nfLKSgcUM_hyphenhypheniZ8VgZMn2Ahw0HGyIuHmlSZ7yisoF2qTElR2BnlCwn7u1yBp3wM4A-i2Q-qS5UylBifKlgvaVG6Pidfh7-4pDlnbFLjxMyS67/s1600/DSC_2349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMv3be6kX6ll9iIikVCYdE6zOTeu6g107nfLKSgcUM_hyphenhypheniZ8VgZMn2Ahw0HGyIuHmlSZ7yisoF2qTElR2BnlCwn7u1yBp3wM4A-i2Q-qS5UylBifKlgvaVG6Pidfh7-4pDlnbFLjxMyS67/s320/DSC_2349.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waterlilies seen from the lobby of Impiana Resort</td></tr>
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At Impiana, I never even had an inkling of expectation that we would be accompanied to our room. I figured they'd hand us the key and we'd head off ourselves, schlepping our own luggage all the way... and I was right. Since I have no such outrageous expectations of this supposed 4-star resort (and it's not), I wasn't disappointed at all. In fact, I thought Impiana was perfectly fine... but only by Malaysian standards. I wrote a review of the resort on TripAdvisor.com. I'll add the link here once it goes live on that site. Meanwhile, here are a few photos from around the resort, showing the room, the grounds, and the pool. In the first picture, take a look at the waterfall just to the left of the center. It's a nice touch, but the background is appalling. It's just the facade of the building, and not an attractive one at that, with the sad vertical blinds behind the glass, and the lone air-conditioner compressor sitting off to the right. It's one of those things that, with a little more effort in the execution (rocks, etc., to give a more natural, inviting look), could have been grand. The waterfall could easily have been the focal point of the pool, elevating it to a really nice resort-like experience. Instead, it just falls flat and almost looks industrial. Unfortunately, this is the case around here more often than not. Even painting the expanse of white concrete wall behind the waterfall to a darker color would really improve things, I think. Note the swim-up bar to the right... a very nice touch.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibLtLXB3cOTsWiwOuDKO9L56Kytb68TslTep9luRkksjz42CqJONLJnecZ490rBbSVr4iFnfGHfXYsPQiIdlBOSgClvkoxGaZrRg8YAAM36BQpvgJOpyk-47TkdrCoHpzDCHfsW621nEKF/s1600/DSC_2338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibLtLXB3cOTsWiwOuDKO9L56Kytb68TslTep9luRkksjz42CqJONLJnecZ490rBbSVr4iFnfGHfXYsPQiIdlBOSgClvkoxGaZrRg8YAAM36BQpvgJOpyk-47TkdrCoHpzDCHfsW621nEKF/s320/DSC_2338.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The inviting waters of Impiana's pool</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh9j2GjzxxgTAyTcyH5mhGP2AHOxdnu5BRcUYVYlZN0iV_WxWSzjDcIHDFg_1w5zeBTnQGZUCM4A50xBBcdhPKhKrfgAHL02SASJsnPu6RHi6IOX23ZGyFn5pj3Rg3UuhfEO5IytovRx3A/s1600/DSC_2442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh9j2GjzxxgTAyTcyH5mhGP2AHOxdnu5BRcUYVYlZN0iV_WxWSzjDcIHDFg_1w5zeBTnQGZUCM4A50xBBcdhPKhKrfgAHL02SASJsnPu6RHi6IOX23ZGyFn5pj3Rg3UuhfEO5IytovRx3A/s320/DSC_2442.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The covered sunloungers by the pool</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5YWUe3olYbr7M5BqZ5tKMep9ZovShjd5Jftb7jsgROqMtm_Iw5cPhbMWyM9zlglXgY74N1_H47B4lLpFixfPULLYSJtIcCXPLnEE7ETbHPqnNYWmmxGJSKP5rgVm9bDEzmuhwzeXKJG9r/s1600/DSC_2478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5YWUe3olYbr7M5BqZ5tKMep9ZovShjd5Jftb7jsgROqMtm_Iw5cPhbMWyM9zlglXgY74N1_H47B4lLpFixfPULLYSJtIcCXPLnEE7ETbHPqnNYWmmxGJSKP5rgVm9bDEzmuhwzeXKJG9r/s320/DSC_2478.jpg" width="218" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here's the room... nothing opulent, but<br />
clean and comfortable... very satisfactory!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrizCh1l_ZwGTX3x0Y6zxrYXKdhxAEYsu8-AUBnbCbHGTG6vkf7ZTUZ5xy2t1SrYX21ekWqKuj1SeGjHJD25Ggb4CdAmCPEVAfjGyXaR5nVaEuLtmUz_sDLyCifwVLhs5xsNgT0yDbYqMV/s1600/DSC_2480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrizCh1l_ZwGTX3x0Y6zxrYXKdhxAEYsu8-AUBnbCbHGTG6vkf7ZTUZ5xy2t1SrYX21ekWqKuj1SeGjHJD25Ggb4CdAmCPEVAfjGyXaR5nVaEuLtmUz_sDLyCifwVLhs5xsNgT0yDbYqMV/s320/DSC_2480.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here's the view from the balcony of our room</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Ai_2meK6PE8xCOpb15bWTXxgdFcpv7xQL7A8A_f12BHBM-7XSVqbjIqpUk3FeqQ-_I63knk792iUznkN7RUlBcwiTXeoop33P_D60weX8xLWnLjSM7q4uMrd4rb7LiiwbBEcQTcuNuhJ/s1600/DSC_2523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="109" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Ai_2meK6PE8xCOpb15bWTXxgdFcpv7xQL7A8A_f12BHBM-7XSVqbjIqpUk3FeqQ-_I63knk792iUznkN7RUlBcwiTXeoop33P_D60weX8xLWnLjSM7q4uMrd4rb7LiiwbBEcQTcuNuhJ/s200/DSC_2523.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kailan with Oyster Sauce... yum!</td></tr>
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<div>
Unquestionably, the highlight of the trip was the first night. We ate dinner at a small cafe in Cherating Lama (literally, "Old Cherating," the original village, which retains a whole lot of charm). We had <i>ikan bakar</i> (grilled fish -- we had white snapper) and assorted veggies, my favorite of which was <i>kailan </i>(one of the many marvelous Asian greens) sautéed in oyster sauce. After that, we popped into a little shack promoting various tours and activities, arranged or co-brokered by a man named Hafiz. The beaches of Cherating are one location in Malaysia where sea turtles come every year to lay their eggs. So we left our number with him with the understanding that if the rangers spotted turtles that night, they'd give us a call. Sure enough, around 10 p.m., we got the call, so we headed off to the designated rendezvous point to meet our guide, who we then followed to the beach.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkR7a5NHaXUjtJ5kchwn0RUyusowRQCEGlOaJxvydwKAVrFL5FuYiwa2nosnCvyLjpXYgaBSuMxUFjf91v3q5GZcz2xZQI1f6bpxGJ6h5cYiGWRfXz6qhwP-TY-LWVBoGlbiTFBQaw1X9S/s1600/DSC_2406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkR7a5NHaXUjtJ5kchwn0RUyusowRQCEGlOaJxvydwKAVrFL5FuYiwa2nosnCvyLjpXYgaBSuMxUFjf91v3q5GZcz2xZQI1f6bpxGJ6h5cYiGWRfXz6qhwP-TY-LWVBoGlbiTFBQaw1X9S/s320/DSC_2406.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's nothing in this photo for scale, but the turtle's head<br />
is roughly the size of a large cantaloupe</td></tr>
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Using only dimmed flashlights, the rangers led us to one female green sea turtle who was busily digging in the sand to lay her eggs. Green turtles never lay eggs in consecutive years, but typically will lay eggs 2-3 times during one mating season. A single clutch of eggs can contain between 100-200 eggs. The female spends about three hours on the beach, the great majority of that time spent digging. There was no actual egg-laying action taking place here yet, so we walked quite a ways down the beach and found another female who was just completing her egg-laying. These turtles aren't as huge as the giant leatherback turtles, but they're nowhere near small. These females were nearly four feet (1.2 m) in length, and a cursory bit of research suggests they probably weighed around 300 lbs. (136 kg) each. Their front flippers are enormous, and though they are well-suited to propulsion in the sea, on land, the turtle is quite ungainly. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioG-wJfa5XrNbWzos-FiFOHVSPul3Y136HPFR8B_Q7LXSzeGbld6Br8oBbB8RWctKwXBWfPV0Qs17E7hyw1SuR-6QIhEIqFwRufVSR-zriGjPe7tybLM4Q5XjT3fxiGh2p7JDat20nYkvk/s1600/DSC_2421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioG-wJfa5XrNbWzos-FiFOHVSPul3Y136HPFR8B_Q7LXSzeGbld6Br8oBbB8RWctKwXBWfPV0Qs17E7hyw1SuR-6QIhEIqFwRufVSR-zriGjPe7tybLM4Q5XjT3fxiGh2p7JDat20nYkvk/s320/DSC_2421.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The telltale path of a green sea turtle</td></tr>
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<div>
No sooner had she finished depositing her eggs in her nest (and gotten a barnacle-scraping, with the ranger slicing off two of the parasitic organisms, one from her head, one from her left front flipper) than she lurched back towards the sea, leaving a distinctive trail in her wake. Unfortunately, poachers are all too familiar with this trail and can easily find sea turtle eggs, which must remain in the sandy nest for 45-75 days, giving unscrupulous people plenty of time to find and steal the eggs, which are prized in parts of Asia. Since the green turtle is an endangered species, the rangers (who were from the local turtle sanctuary) promptly dug up the eggs to take them to the sanctuary for protective incubation. Upon hatching, the baby turtles are returned to the same location from where they were removed, and released, where they instinctively head into the waiting sea. This affords the hatchlings a doubly increased chance of survival over just leaving the eggs where they were laid: First, even if the eggs aren't poached by humans, they can fall prey to any number of maladies during the incubation period and fail to develop. Second, the trek to the ocean after hatching on the beach is the most dangerous time in the turtle's entire life. Many baby turtles never make it to the water, getting picked off by birds, monkeys, lizards, even crabs. Released under the supervision of conservation-minded people, the turtles stand a significantly improved chance of initial survival.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAkL7EDkOehLbmTlMoYk_BBzpDYX7di0xs40_MD3ZD583taheiLr8RD7sIASN2fJN0OCsJ95IL_5W3BNrs5ml1uST6nIuVwEjXVaDC05fZo1pM-eEO-vdtA4LcoOh-M9gF-6ezyC6GBIrs/s1600/DSC_2409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAkL7EDkOehLbmTlMoYk_BBzpDYX7di0xs40_MD3ZD583taheiLr8RD7sIASN2fJN0OCsJ95IL_5W3BNrs5ml1uST6nIuVwEjXVaDC05fZo1pM-eEO-vdtA4LcoOh-M9gF-6ezyC6GBIrs/s320/DSC_2409.jpg" width="316" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me with two of the hours-old hatchlings. The turtle<br />
on the right is particularly eager to be released!</td></tr>
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<div>
One of the most remarkable things about sea turtles is that many undertake epic migrations to return to the exact same beach they hatched at decades earlier in order to lay their own eggs as adults. So the two females we saw, in all likelihood, had been hatched on that very beach many years ago. Green turtles can live up to 80 years in the wild, and don't start breeding until they're 20-30 years old, so how they find their way back to the same beach they were born at, often well over 1,000 miles (1,600 km) away all those years later is a great mystery. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxtNrLLQ0UgziLrusPUawoJcTN6Ky27-WXPzajqhPpAxl_D8p4nn5fAVMz4SpmVvo1MG4nUiqgVK5qApgtdGGKSrMd6WOHO5qZurYQNWYGCl-0r6y3fn818bl7IQcI7i_jgGBPirgDc_xs/s1600/DSC_2418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxtNrLLQ0UgziLrusPUawoJcTN6Ky27-WXPzajqhPpAxl_D8p4nn5fAVMz4SpmVvo1MG4nUiqgVK5qApgtdGGKSrMd6WOHO5qZurYQNWYGCl-0r6y3fn818bl7IQcI7i_jgGBPirgDc_xs/s320/DSC_2418.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Time for a beach ping-pong marathon!</td></tr>
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<div>
The second turtle we saw left behind a clutch of 108 eggs, which look almost exactly like ping-pong balls, and even feel similarly, for the shell is semi-soft at the freshly laid stage. The eggs were collected rather unceremoniously in a plastic grocery bag and taken off to the sanctuary later. I mentioned to my friend that, really, these "rangers" could actually be poachers, and we'd never know... not only stealing eggs, but taking money from unsuspecting tourists, too! The only way we could really know would be if we saw them actually releasing newly hatched turtles back into the ocean. In a great stroke of providence, a batch of baby turtles had indeed just hatched that night, and they brought them (in a shopping basket, which was amusing)... probably a hundred tiny hatchlings, only a few hours old. So after seeing the adult turtles and a big clutch of ping-pong egg balls, we even got to release baby turtles into the South China Sea, all under a big full moon. It really couldn't have been scripted any better and we paid only RM30 to the guides for this remarkable experience, about the cost of seeing the latest crappy movie at the cinema in my hometown. As I learned not too long ago, a great maxim for living life is, "Buy experiences, not things." So we did just that. The second night, we did it again... this time, trading turtles on the beach for fireflies on the river.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1TVzBeaoFKIbxST2qdDlB2W1Hpmg2mdGBFEm4kdXGZu3ygI2ExfuQzLjDjQqnmy0Rym-AR2BYP4iirUw6zRj43MaaisGKC1RLu9DAf99GR2PL5qCAUYkZZq8BLYPHVHwCEezWy351xIBV/s1600/DSC_2427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1TVzBeaoFKIbxST2qdDlB2W1Hpmg2mdGBFEm4kdXGZu3ygI2ExfuQzLjDjQqnmy0Rym-AR2BYP4iirUw6zRj43MaaisGKC1RLu9DAf99GR2PL5qCAUYkZZq8BLYPHVHwCEezWy351xIBV/s400/DSC_2427.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For these baby turtles, an 80-year journey begins with<br />
a moonlit 20-meter dash into the sea</td></tr>
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The tour guide mentioned earlier, Hafiz, is also an expert on fireflies and leads a boat tour down the Cherating River at night, so we did that. I think we set off at around 8:30 pm, into the inky darkness of the river. The boat was full, with six adults, three small children, and Hafiz, who had given a short, but remarkably educational pre-departure lecture on fireflies in general, and on the specific species we were to see. He also (to my amusement) asked us not to swat or smash the fireflies, as they would be flying to us and landing on us and the boat. I grew up chasing fireflies (not much of a chase, really... fireflies are among the easiest bugs on Earth to catch) and know that they're harmless. Obviously there are no photos from the firefly river tour; it was far too dark. However, suffice it to say it was well worth the RM15 we spent. The tour lasted a little over an hour, and we saw plenty of fireflies, many of who paid up-close and personal visits to us in the boat. Now I really want to go to Kuala Selangor, which is not far from my place (maybe a 30- or 40-minute drive) and see the fireflies there. It's a different species and those fireflies actually synchronize their flashing, which I'm sure is an amazing spectacle.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxy9CXtNcaM5TzWFAc8SxFUueM3qUmHRChHwJyOm44cC4BZFKhSO5TM_BlCHxcOGk0-FGd0c3fC8_ScFiIbBB2sdRxUl5RX31aPqSw2dWVkAV6mvRD0cH25tLrrYXZKDC-2Xm19j-GIXmJ/s1600/DSC_2522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxy9CXtNcaM5TzWFAc8SxFUueM3qUmHRChHwJyOm44cC4BZFKhSO5TM_BlCHxcOGk0-FGd0c3fC8_ScFiIbBB2sdRxUl5RX31aPqSw2dWVkAV6mvRD0cH25tLrrYXZKDC-2Xm19j-GIXmJ/s320/DSC_2522.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tong Juan's famous stuffed crabs</td></tr>
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For dinner on the final evening of the short holiday, we drove the short 15-km distance north to the town of Chukai, just across the state line in Terengganu. One of my friends in KL is from the nearby town of Kuantan and recommended this place in Chukai called Tong Juan for their stuffed crabs. Located right by the river there, the ambiance-challenged restaurant serves up stuffed crabs for RM8 each. Now, perhaps it's because I was born and raised on the Gulf Coast in the US, but to me, stuffed crabs are nothing new, nor anything fancy. But this place is famous among Malaysians (who consider RM8, nearly US$3, for a single stuffed crab, somehow, to be a bargain), so we had to try it. We got the last remaining table and ordered four crabs, a couple of vegetables (<i>kailan </i>and <i>kangkong</i>), and two young coconuts (to drink). The crabs are stuffed with a mixture of crab meat and filler (breading, herbs, etc.) and to me, weren't seasoned enough. The resultant product was almost devoid of any real flavor, although it was certainly fine to eat. Then the whole thing is dipped in an egg mixture, I think, and fried. Our total bill came to about RM60 and honestly, the meal was not worth that price tag. In KL, two people can eat good food and a lot of it for that price. And I know with certainty that I could make stuffed crabs at home that taste better. The ones at Tong Juan were fine, but bland. Naturally, there was no hint of gracious service whatsoever, which is, regrettably, to be expected. So to recap... rubbishy service, a total lack of ambiance, and good, but unexceptional food. Though I think the overall meal was certainly okay, this is not a place I'd patronize again, especially having to drive out of the way to get to it.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQnuQDcJsnuIm6TQ5r-jC9mgK5zCYUZl8TfTdvsfCyYH63JpyIsPRVQOzg1Eg1qH7lxtCMi5HRWcPMlYQWiBMZzi9J9CO7CqNLo2wX3ziYeOmH08YqYUG6PN3jz8NlKvRF8qDH0yY3FO43/s1600/DSC_2519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQnuQDcJsnuIm6TQ5r-jC9mgK5zCYUZl8TfTdvsfCyYH63JpyIsPRVQOzg1Eg1qH7lxtCMi5HRWcPMlYQWiBMZzi9J9CO7CqNLo2wX3ziYeOmH08YqYUG6PN3jz8NlKvRF8qDH0yY3FO43/s320/DSC_2519.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's not often you get to walk along a multi-level beach.<br />
Here, the upper level was a good two meters higher than<br />
the lower level... all courtesy of the monsoon</td></tr>
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On the same day, before we went to Chukai, we went back to "Turtle Beach" to see it during daylight hours; there were some really nice rock outcroppings and right-on-the-beach jungle I wanted to see. It's really a nice stretch... and curiously, the size of the beach increases and decreases significantly with the seasonal monsoon. Six months earlier, the beach extended 100m further out to sea. Each year, though, as the monsoonal flow shifts, the sea consumes the beach. You can see clearly in this picture the different places the water reached as it reclaimed the sand, resulting in a dramatic two-level beach.</div>
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We also got to see a beach monkey! The little bugger was probably casing the joint for a future raid on a clutch of freshly hatched turtles. I'll toss in a few more pictures from the walk here, captioned accordingly.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1yVjs9BZ2_SoZXXTWG5q9K0YYf9MMo0KI-PmCAPHjW7OF8plTbWIUHSprpje1Htd02JElz0lVqzDug5vlrYC3erUf6iIY0OUBUGwNZ95f2Rg9gAP72Nr4kAYyyUj55JTmUtjCjPn-N9nU/s1600/DSC_2481.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1yVjs9BZ2_SoZXXTWG5q9K0YYf9MMo0KI-PmCAPHjW7OF8plTbWIUHSprpje1Htd02JElz0lVqzDug5vlrYC3erUf6iIY0OUBUGwNZ95f2Rg9gAP72Nr4kAYyyUj55JTmUtjCjPn-N9nU/s320/DSC_2481.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monkey on the prowl... I think it's a macaque</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrrVFQUVGVEWVIATOyTTZMwkmQfYCef8O0BXn1M4T_Yze9yo8K4IfYo6-Yg2rWwQeEfG3l4dLwfzbdbaBtdAHbRDmqbeC5s4QfhIQzr7nBAYJXrbjLrWo_Ac6GT0YUJbcv_8xqfNx7dOJT/s1600/DSC_2500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrrVFQUVGVEWVIATOyTTZMwkmQfYCef8O0BXn1M4T_Yze9yo8K4IfYo6-Yg2rWwQeEfG3l4dLwfzbdbaBtdAHbRDmqbeC5s4QfhIQzr7nBAYJXrbjLrWo_Ac6GT0YUJbcv_8xqfNx7dOJT/s320/DSC_2500.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking along a desolate beach as the day's light wanes</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmx1_eINb-Pg9t7MNxtmPhKfrkMHvJG4Uk8eBXdaQ0QSIhLCE21-Ieus84rbMJTOobdPytSN_ZHOgo4TIl1puE95iUktiiO8HA21e0mfs2ROvfBmLo_JL6j4JuNFPNuMbhX0pZiSHzsb-d/s1600/DSC_2486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmx1_eINb-Pg9t7MNxtmPhKfrkMHvJG4Uk8eBXdaQ0QSIhLCE21-Ieus84rbMJTOobdPytSN_ZHOgo4TIl1puE95iUktiiO8HA21e0mfs2ROvfBmLo_JL6j4JuNFPNuMbhX0pZiSHzsb-d/s320/DSC_2486.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Less than 50m from the sea, the sand gives<br />
way abruptly to dense foliage...</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjycvpT_mehg98qyWGOSHqk1mWfvcl-Lu8L0qMcgwpBvGPpg7HBKcaI2w64pRW4M2hV5z7wD8bWvLvXapCKxbCXmMfEXwUBb0SFNOgmnwx3wGJ0zac8skh-EciWR0fs01ZshAvlr61AVoPJ/s1600/DSC_2499.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjycvpT_mehg98qyWGOSHqk1mWfvcl-Lu8L0qMcgwpBvGPpg7HBKcaI2w64pRW4M2hV5z7wD8bWvLvXapCKxbCXmMfEXwUBb0SFNOgmnwx3wGJ0zac8skh-EciWR0fs01ZshAvlr61AVoPJ/s320/DSC_2499.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The biodiversity of the jungle so close to the ocean was amazing<br />
(Click to enlarge and you'll see)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMvFlPjBL3pYOY4dkqXcnP4BQ92t8Bcdaphpi4YFJELTFis0WaIw2IxiUKfUHxIHmmwhyphenhyphenyCfCjzlzyUHB2g8So_wkGio9diyLcl669NVqLJUk56i54ZqUfJMRZTmqdO-AR_eiRQaDHk0I5/s1600/DSC_2517.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="161" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMvFlPjBL3pYOY4dkqXcnP4BQ92t8Bcdaphpi4YFJELTFis0WaIw2IxiUKfUHxIHmmwhyphenhyphenyCfCjzlzyUHB2g8So_wkGio9diyLcl669NVqLJUk56i54ZqUfJMRZTmqdO-AR_eiRQaDHk0I5/s320/DSC_2517.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a good one to enlarge as well. I'm not sure what these<br />
are (a species of barnacle, perhaps), but they were all over<br />
this rock, particularly along the crevices</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGq-hujiEAFq8nDNlwckka3j-mtOSzUX4iMMm0RCryJrjFVVLJxL7ek5fGFZotbAWyAmQGRz5ZspMGiDaY4bGtQgUJoJwtUj9XhnCqGhK8xOaXzCebaZP9u85GlP6MGw9Fz1Dj8E-EzJoB/s1600/DSC_2485.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGq-hujiEAFq8nDNlwckka3j-mtOSzUX4iMMm0RCryJrjFVVLJxL7ek5fGFZotbAWyAmQGRz5ZspMGiDaY4bGtQgUJoJwtUj9XhnCqGhK8xOaXzCebaZP9u85GlP6MGw9Fz1Dj8E-EzJoB/s320/DSC_2485.jpg" width="222" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More turtle tracks</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh7XAZnCEyFSu414t2PPIs5HclDnP7NOubsS-_W-sumYhradpTIC0rcan4p7UuD6i7ilLdmFuTxwwPgV4ssnwMkStFM6REveU8TxaRvh6cbGytWm9BAsn9Eq1uOU09-kBr2DJ-tLOLM_BC/s1600/DSC_2505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh7XAZnCEyFSu414t2PPIs5HclDnP7NOubsS-_W-sumYhradpTIC0rcan4p7UuD6i7ilLdmFuTxwwPgV4ssnwMkStFM6REveU8TxaRvh6cbGytWm9BAsn9Eq1uOU09-kBr2DJ-tLOLM_BC/s320/DSC_2505.jpg" width="222" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deep water- and wind-eroded striations in a massive rock formation<br />
that's likely been there for hundreds of millennia</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbAK6ncKC86VqDAAHmwUcoR9uEAAmbueoRrww3k5o0FKrSwRk3ijFsvfLh2UmucleEW-xm8ovtajh84miUXRlkREU668kvuQduZk3u-d6fk_1932_fH8S2HaNT0v2tadgeJ7mH36i333G/s1600/DSC_2488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbAK6ncKC86VqDAAHmwUcoR9uEAAmbueoRrww3k5o0FKrSwRk3ijFsvfLh2UmucleEW-xm8ovtajh84miUXRlkREU668kvuQduZk3u-d6fk_1932_fH8S2HaNT0v2tadgeJ7mH36i333G/s320/DSC_2488.jpg" width="222" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small flowers on a beach-bound vine</td></tr>
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Overall, the trip was just really nice. Like I said, I've lowered my expectations here to the point where the things I've mentioned don't even ping my radar until I evaluate the experience later in my head. By local standards, this was a really enjoyable holiday and I'd definitely recommend a few days in Cherating to any KL resident wanting to chill out and enjoy some time on a beach without having to board a plane or spend a fortune.</div>Chad M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/12351482893667302871noreply@blogger.com13